My sister is a local ski patrol leader in the winter, and worldwide mountain guide during the summer. A few years ago on the hike back down the summit of Denali, her team came across a two man Polish team who had one member fall into a crevasse, after he unclipped from his rope. My sister was the only person who was small enough to fit where he was wedged in the ice. She said you couldn't even turn your head, it was that tight. She used her ice axe for hours in order to get enough room around him to reattach a rope so rescuers could pull him out to a waiting medevac. He was rescued finally and survived with a broken hip, legs, and other bones. A few months later she got a surprise call from the recovering climber. He offered her a $40,000 budget to buy a vehicle as a thank you for her efforts in saving his life. She bought a van and converted it for mountaineering purposes.
Your sister is a brave woman. When I first heard that word I thought a crevasse was some sort of bird that lived on the mountain and attacked the mountaineers. Once I saw the photos on Google I immediately felt dizzy. I don't believe I could ever cross above one of those gashes in the ice, let alone risk my life going into them and rescuing someone.
Wow awesome story. Im in alaska and we love it but I live out my dreams through these videos. I wish I would have moved here at a much younger age. Thank you to your sister for being who she is.
Your sister is amazing!! It takes a special person to put themselves in danger to save a stranger, what a nice gift to have been given,so many rescuers get no recognition for their heroism.💕
I've tried to climb Denali twice. It's tried to kill me twice. So, we have a deal going. The first try, I went the dog route, the west but. The 2nd time, I tried the Cassin Ridge, a more challenging route. And it was more challenging for certain. My climb is quite the story. I'll just say I ended up trapped in a 2 man tent with 5 guys. It was terrible, but we all lived. Oh, and since there was a blizzard going on, no one summited. Before I tried Denali for the 2nd time, I had summited Rainier 5 times, Mt. Hood twice. Mt. Whitney on the mounteers route twice, Mt. Illimani, and Mt. Alpamayo Chico. So, I had a lot of experience on many expeditions. Having experience climbing outside of the US, and my time in the military, along with the incredibly excellent training the military gave me is what saved me and the lives of the 4 other guys with me. As a note, the reason we were all in 1 tent was that the blizzard and potential for an avalanche made it impossible to set up more than 1 tent. Plus, because the temperature got so low, sharing our body heat inside our 5 high mountain sleeping bags helped us survive. If any of you have the idea of climbing Denali, make sure you have enough experience or you will die. Denali kills climbers all the time. It's the combination of the altitude, the weather, and proximity to the North Pole. Look it up. Do your due diligence. You will understand why it is one of the most difficult peaks to climb in the world. It's one of the most beautiful mountains on Mother Earth. It's also one of the most deadly. To summit Denali, the mountain must give its permission. Be safe, be well, and be happy.
@munequa81 I am sorry for taking this long to reply. Sadly, I read that you'll not be able to experience climbing. There are many other ways of enjoying mountains though. In my case, I spent the happiest days of my youth chasing hunting dogs up and down mountains in the middle of the night. Those times were spent in the company of my Cherokee grandfather, one of my heroes in life. Thus, I was doubly blessed. I kept learning from my grandfather, and I had a deep-abiding love for the dogs running in front of me. It's a curiosity of mine to explain certain peculiar traits that I possess. I have great night vision and have wondered if there were a connection between it and spending all that time running up and down mountains following a pack of dogs and never carrying a flashlight. It was just me, the dogs, the mountains, and the moon. Eh. Who knows? What about tackling smaller mountains? Might they provide enough of what you're looking for? As I don't know your motivation, you've not left any clues about climbing. Again, my apologies for being so late in replying. I'll try not to let it happen again. Please though, know this, I have an intractable migraine. Yeah, it never goes away. So, if you feel that I'm exceptionally tardy, the intractable migraine could be preventing me from being here.
@@kiasax2 no need for an apology, we all have lives to attend to. Migraines are hell on earth, I completely understand. I think I’ll be satisfied with hiking and maybe smaller mountains, but I don’t have the desire to go any further than that. I find mountains so beautiful and hope to retire in a mountain community when the time comes.
Brad Washburn talked to me about this expedition. He told me that someone from one of the groups wanted Brad’s maps of Denali for the trip. Brad said the group was young and he didn’t think they had enough experience. He said the young man said that he and his pals were planning to wear swim trunks under their clothes, and then take a picture of themselves at the summit in just their swim trunks, because it would be something that had never been done before. Brad told me he said “Well, the mountain has never been climbed backwards or blindfolded either, you could try that!” It’s that comment to me that makes me realize he must have been telling me about THIS expedition. Brad just shook his head. “They didn’t take the mountain seriously.” “Did they make the summit? Did they take the picture?” I asked. He said “They made the summit, they stayed too long, they were caught in a storm on the way down and they died there.” I was shocked, and speechless. The description of Brad at the end of this video sounds just like him, brisk, moving fast, direct and to the point in his comments--And compassionate to an expedition leader who must have been criticized for his failures. THANKS for your video. I knew Brad when he was Director Emeritus of the Boston Museum of Science, I worked in the Education and later the Exhibits Department. I loved him. He was generous with his time, his praise, and his stories. (Maureen McConnell)
normally I'd look at this and think "fake", but damn, this is just too specific for that. thanks for helping further inform us about these people, they're definitely victims of nature and we need to remember they're humans just like us
All the big peaks like Everest, Denali, K2 etc are known to be deadly. However, Mt. Washington in New Hampshire is often overlooked because it's height isn't, on the surface, especially impressive. However, because of it's unique weather and technical difficulties on certain routes, it is often used when preparing for an Everest climb. It also has many interesting but tragic stories. One that happened to an aquantance of mine in 1992 or 1993. They were caught in a blizzard, and even though they were within feet of the inhabited weather station at the peak, his climbing partner died of hypothermia while he managed to find the building before he succumbed. He did lose several fingers and toes to frostbite and part of his sanity for a while after.
Was that the guy who was kicked out of his college outdoor club for being too reckless? As I recall he got a friend to hike with him into terrible weather without being properly prepared and his friend paid the price. The rescue team that went up to retrieve the body had utter contempt for him. His friend froze a long way from the weather station, but he found the weather station and was saved. Mount Washington in winter is serious business, with arctic conditions. Many people have died of exposure there, even in summer, because they assume it's like other New England peaks.
It's a minor thing, but having read "Denali's Howl" last year, I am thrilled that you highlighted the individuals you were talking about in the group photo. 12 guys of roughly the same age, all scruffy and dressed alike...it was really difficult to tell them apart when I was reading the book.
Assigning blame is such an impossible thing to do in a situation like this. 12 Young, strong willed, brave men setting out on a feat that most of us would never attempt in a much different time is mind blowing. I know nothing of mountains but I know a lot about the ocean. When there are two weather patterns colliding in that manner, I imagine their location was mostly at fault. Hindsight is amazing in planning the future but does nothing to fix the past. I am in awe of each and every one of these men. Thank you for an amazing video!
@@animula6908 a lot of people feel uncomfortable if they can't split the world in bad/good, guilty /not guilty even if judgement is uncalled for or unnecessary
It's crazy to think of how remote and difficult Denali would have felt in 1967! By the time I was there, one could hop on a plane in Talkeetna and land on the Kahiltna glacier at 7000' with all his gear! Nevertheless, Denali was still challenging. Even on a calm clear June morning, the temperature at high camp was -63 F .
Yep that is pretty darn cold and when I moved up here it was really cold, and when you have to drive 3 hours to the nearest town your weather can be raining snowing and sunny all in one trip
Hard to fathom how cold that is. The coldest temp I’ve ever experienced was -7F with strong wind putting the chill to about -20F and the gusts hitting my face took my breath away.
This is why I'm both fascinated and perplexed by those who climb these high mountains. Watching people die usable to help, or dying myself all while possessing the knowledge I put myself in that position.
If one is a serious climber it is part of the consideration taken when choosing to climb. Death can be around the corner on any climb for many different reasons, some completely out of our control. The object is to plan ahead by getting years of experience and building proper skills and good habits. Even with all that it can still go horribly wrong. Ego also keeps many climbers on the mountain when they should have turned around or should never have been there in the first place. As I like to say Climb Smart. Hope this gives you some insight. I was a Guide and rescue specialist for 30 years.
I'm equally fascinated - with so many possibilities of dying outside of one's control from homicide to viruses - Why put yourself in such an inhospitable environment? As humans we are so different in what motivates us.
Well it's interesting to say the least, I just don't like when people get stuck up there and then they have to be flown out which is almost impossible with the weather systems up there you can only see Denali but few days in the summer that's it. I think they have a statement out there that only few people can climb the mountain every year just by like the lottery you can't get into Denali the furthest point as far as the tourist guide to go. The only other way is to do a lottery
@@tygrrrmoore9815 climbing is too much work as well, you have to have alot stamina, endurance and really push your body. People must get a thrill from climbing some place they could die on. It’s way too much work, and risky. It’s so risky sometimes others can’t assist you because the conditions have gotten bad.
Watching few nights ago some docs about K2 and others I end up here.. Don't know how, don't know why (Yt recommended it).. but I like this channel. Won a subscriber.
"Denali's Howl" is an awesome account of these events. It's also written from someone not partisan to either Wilcox or Synder; the leaders of the two groups. Both Wilcox and Snyder have written their own books: "White Winds" and "Hall of the Mountain King" respectively. The narrator of this video shares the point of view of Snyder, leader of the Colorado group, which I find biased. These were a bunch of young men who self funded this expedition on pennies. It was not a professional expedition. It was a group of friends on an adventure. It is wrong to treat Wilcox like Sir Edmund Hillary and do the Monday quarterbacking that Synder does. Wilcox did everything that any reasonable person would expect. the 1967 Denali tragedy is exactly like the 1996 Everest tragedy of Rob Hall''s and Scott Fischer's teams. Both expeditions were during the days prior to advanced weather forecasting and they both ran into freak storms. If anything the 1967 Denali expedition was an example of extreme bad luck as those on the summit came face to face with ‘the perfect storm’ - an artic super blizzard with winds of up to 300 miles an hour. It's horrifying to think what those on the summit experienced. The Mountain Gods decided to let out a fury for whatever reason.
What seems clear to me is the casualness of the decision not to ascend right away when all could have. Had they done so, no one or few would have died but then n0 books written to make money off the incident. The '96 disaster occurred in a tamed landscape as opposed to the '67 disaster where there were very few ppl assuring all the dangers were taken into account. The commercialization of mountaineering certainly has way to many men with deep pockets undertaking the pursuit
I had the honor and absolute pleasure of working with Jerry Lewis at Denali when he was in his seventies. A kind and gentle soul. What a wonderful human being.
Whenever I watch one of these, it brings me back to growing up in the 90's watching documentaries on the History Channel. No other channel has the presentation and meticulous level of detail. If you can somehow make one of these a week, your channel will explode.
I’m always so favorably impressed by mountaineers who respect the land, don’t litter and don’t throw their dirty money around for sherpas to risk their lives to satisfy their egos and desires for real experiences. The Everest crowd is disgusting on every level. Corpses, feces and oxygen bottles are their legacy. Bless these boys who did it on their own strength.
Those with money SHOULD "throw their money around" but they don't! Sherpas aren't nearly compensated enough for the amount of work they do or how many lives rely on them or saved by them.
I like how they always say they're going to "conquer" the mountain and "assault" the peek. Well, these mountains are still there but many of the would be conquers and assaulters are not.
Agreed. I guess they see the mountain as an enemy. Sometimes you win, sometimes the mountain. But you can only win the "battle", never the war. The mountains will still be there after our species has long expired
This was a great video! I'd never heard this story before, but you did TONS of research to make it worth listening to. Very sad what happened to these guys. I was born in '67 so, 55 years ago (2022)...that's crazy!
I was born in 67 as well, so yeah, this blows my mind that this was happening out in the world when I was an infant! I had never heard of this story before either.
I’ve heard this story a few times before but I liked your video best. You’re the only one who’s gone into detail about who these people were/ their personalities. In previous videos I’d paused it on the group pic and wondered who was the joker/ the leader/ the serious one.. etc. You’ve answered that today, thanks!
An interesting note: Denali is at 63 degrees north latitude, almost up to the Arctic Circle (66 degrees) whereas Mt. Everest is at 27 degrees, like Palm Beach, Florida.
I'm living at 63 degrees north latitude in Finland and no problem in winter. A properly built house with 275 mm insulation in walls, 200 mm in floor and 500 mm in ceiling/roof can stand -40F/-40C easily. Nice and warm inside.
Palm Beach, Florida, is practically at sea level, Mt Everest is over 8,800 metres high. Temperatures drop by 6.5*C every 1000 metres, the higher you go the colder it gets together with a drop in oxygen levels.
About a 4 hour drive to the artic circle. I drove all the way to prodoho bay. Dunked my hands in the arctic ocean. I wanted to swim. I swam in the ocean on the south side of AK, but north side was... At least 50° colder
This is the second tragedy story like this I've listened to where people report hearing voices only to find no one there. I've heard a lot of stories over the years and the strange super natural occurrences always wig me out a bit. I hate that these sort of things happen and it's made worse when there are bad omens going in. Soldiers in WW2 always told stories about men KNOWING they were going to be dying, sometimes a week before it happening. They'd become worried, melancholy, quiet...some would write letters saying good-bye to their families. In one story, there was a small recon patrol, about 12 guys and the man telling the story said his best friend was scared to stay the night in the barn they'd found. He would not settle down, he kept moving sleeping locations. In the morning, the Germans who had spotted them going in the barn, fired an artillery round that hit the barn, blowing the entire thing to splinters. While a few had minor injuries, only ONE man died...and it was the guy that didn't want to go in the barn. He had ONE injury and it was a small piece of shrapnel that had struck him directly in the forehead. Life truly is way stranger than fiction.
Stories you don't hear: "Friend o' mine got the death-jitters one day on Okinawa and, well, he's still alive today! Has three kids and runs a boat repair shop -- fun guy." Reverse survivorship bias, nothing more.
@@foobazabar You don't HEAR them because they don't happen. Everyone gets nervous but there is a distinct difference between certain events and sometimes people just KNOW and no one knows HOW they know.
@@TheCountofToulouse But I do know how they "know" -- they're in a warzone and will soon engage in combat. Its not a real thing, there is no great metaphysical explanation required for high-likelihood coincidence. Its just a grim version of a fishing story, that's it.
@@foobazabar it could be just the subconscious picking up on some queues - let's use the WW2 example. Maybe the soldier saw slight movement in the forest with the corner of his eye and that's why he felt uneasy - maybe it was way too subtle to pick up on it consciously but nonetheless he may have saw something like that. Or maybe the dirt around the barn was recently disturbed which would indicate that people were there recently, or something else etc. The prevailing "theory" for sudden gut feelings is that you observe a multitude of visual or auditory queues that, if taken separately, don't mean much, but when taken together at once they spell danger, hence you get such sense of dread but you're unable to pinpoint it logically to just one source. Sounds like a reasonable enough explanation to me, and it would make sense evolutionarily speaking as well
Hey Archie, I'm enjoying this video, thank you for the work on broadcasting it. I've read one book about this climb, and did a lot of flipping back to the group picture, putting a face to the action. Here, you've done something unique by lighting up each man as the story unfolds. Good job.
I was also supposed to be on this expedition. I was a geology grad student at the University of Alaska. Prior experience was climbing the Matterhorn in Switzerland and Mt. Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe. I also had experience in rock climbing and taken courses in mountain medicine and winter survival training. I also taught ice climbing in the Adirondack Mountain Club Winter Climbing Course at Heart Lake. My problem w@s I needed permission from the U S Army as I had a deferment from active duty for my masters degree. They asked if this was apart of my dissertation and I had to admit that it was not. They therefore did not give me permission to be on the expedition. To this day I am sure this saved my life!!
In May of 1989, I was on Denali where eleven people died! It was the second most stormiest year! I witnessed the weather writing on the mountain and "escaped"! In January 1996, on Aconcagua during high winds and snow, I turned around leading five companions safely back to our 19,200' camp! That same year in May, the same scenario turned tragic with many lives lost on Everest during the infamous Scott Fischer - Rob Hall expeditions. They did not heed their plans of a 2 PM turn around time to descend. Only fools try to conquer mountains!!! Sincerely, Steve Thaw, Moraga, California
This is such a hidden gem of a channel. I have no clue where you get your sources from but you never fail to disappoint on these uploads. Great job man!
I think Wilcox certainly had some responsibility, by neither having enough experience, nor authority enough, to stop others from making bad decisions. But e.g. without a demand on everyone passing a pre medical check before being allowed to join, how was Wilcox supposed to know one of the men deliberately hid needing to take medication which affected his ability to eat.
I’m not saying he should of known, but informing all climbers the perils of the journey, knowing who you are taking on the journey , and educating them of medications and warning signs of certain sickness and unpleasant experiences climbing so high. And they would be stuck together and they might need to depend on each other. And making
@@whitedragoness23 Yeah, but it's not the first time I've heared about someone so determined to do something, that they do everything to hide, and/or ignore a severe medical problem that should've stopped them. And it's not only in mountaineering it happens.
@@whitedragoness23 I partly agree, as I said in my first post, I do think he had some responsibility. But at the same time, it's easy for us to say that from our bystanders point of view, all these years later. Then and there, he was up there, at an altitude which might have affected his thought process, and the weather wasn't yet that bad when he left the camp to continue his descent.
if, the group more cohesive. if, they go up sooner. if, they were told to go down. if, they were listen to go up and not dilly dally. if, if, if... the truth is that mountaineering is a very dangerous sport, you cannot be cocky, you need to know your own strength, you need to know your weaknesses even more, and you have to be a team player, and lastly you have to have common sense. the mountain will be there next year.
This was good - well researched and well presented. Your use of the group photo throughout the story was super helpful in putting faces to the names and much appreciated.
Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest spent every day in the forests we went to Alaska every summer one year we went to Denali I told Dad we should climb it he said she's beautiful from here but from atop she's deadly.
Not a mountaineer, but a hiker and I love the mountains. The risks of high altitude were brought home to me reading about the 1986 K2 disaster, altitude sickness and summit fever contributing to the loss of many experienced climbers. I've no intention of trying to summit a high mountain and I'll never be fit enough anyway, plus there is no pride in dying in a mountain even if you have submitted. This was an ill thought out team with mediocre leadership and poor luck with the weather.
I've recently found a few similar channels all good content but yours is the only ones who does long videos, the others are all too short. Thanks a lot, keep it up.
Thank you! What an excellent documentary. It adds the background details smoothly, with a summary of the biographies of each climber. I also appreciate the mini lessons on weather patterns and general informative format of the show. Your altitude comparison with Everest helped me realize that even though it's the tallest, many other peaks require a longer climb by distance. Great channel. Subscribed :)
Super well done video, one of the best. The highlighting and descriptions of each man very well done. Good maps and scenery. Excellent narration well paced and informative.
I'll never truly understand the desire to put one's self through the abuse of climbing frozen piles of rock. Even if everything goes perfect you are still half dead by the time you finish. Love hearing the accounts of those who do it though.
I love climbing, but I always turn back while I am still having fun. I travel “heavy and slow” rather than “light and fast,” so I probably turn back as often as I summit. The upside of this is that I haven’t ever become hypothermic or dehydrated. If the ascent requires more than hiking poles and ice crampons, I don’t do it.
Awesome video my friend. Very detailed. The way you covered this story is captivating, the descriptions of the men made me feel like I knew them and could appreciate their individual roles, which made the story all the more tragic an meaningful.
Great presentation,first time watching a documentary of Denali. I am deeply drawn to mountain climbing stories and documentaries. I really admire the climbers but my deepest fascination is how one could choose to go where it is so cold and brutal. ❤
When someone is obsessed, all the warnings from family and friends go in one ear and out the other without stopping to absorb. It's very frustrating from the families.
I'm utterly fascinated by mountaineering stories, the absolute strength and courage required, so thank you for that. This ascent seemed fated early on as had been observed. Unfortunately, mountain climbing is fraught with ego and conflict combined with weather, altitude sickness and crevasses, especially in descent. The thrill of a mountain top is dependent on multiple factors meshing together favourably, so it is worth the risk. Incidentally, I was born at the time the climbers began their expedition.
I love hiking and I'm definitely a amateur by any means in terms of heights and weather conditions but the levels these guys go for are a zone I never wish to attempt, I can see no joy in pushing it to these limits although I respect the willpower needed to endure such hardships and respect the level of commitment and love they have for the mountains this is definitely for a specific breed of adventurer
Obsessions are terrible things. Here in NH we have Mt. Washington as the tallest at 6,233'. I've done it three times. I won't do it again. I'm a senior citizen, old lady, so respect what my body says. She takes longer to recover from 'events' then she used to. Some people don't do that. I read every week the falls, deaths that happened over the previous weekend. One example: A man had a heart attack at 4,000' just face planted down, boom, gone. His wife, hiking with him, said: "He's had heart problems." Obsessions are terrible things.
Your narration totally gets me into these stories. I know I'm going to be sad because someone ends up hurt or dead. Please keep up the great work! Love your channel
Falling upside down into an ice crevasse that tapers oh so gently is one of my worst fears. Every slip is due to your body temperature or panic, slowly suffocating you.
@Maddie B. ive had nightmares about it for sure. my biggest fear is waking up burried inside a pipe. i know it's probably never going to happen but i think about it a lot. just one of those strange phobias i guess. im very very claustrophobic
My biggest fear is dying of dehydration on the sea, or in a desert. It’s also weirdly specific. I suppose it’s because I have had serious heat injury with confusion and brief loss of consciousness. Pretty ghastly event.
There are many situations that people claim only the brave would do......well, sometimes people are just dumb...not brave, and those people put everyone else at risk because they are just ignorant of the danger
This was excellent. I’m always excited when you put up a video. Very thorough investigation. Also, your voice and narration is great. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks!
I’m physically fit. I did many perfect scores in USMC Fitness tests. Ran a marathon Did 400 pull ups on my 40th birthday. Ridden my bicycle across the USA. There’s no way I would try to climb a 20,000ft Mt
Excellent video of this tragic climb. I climbed with Mark McLaughlin back in the 1960s as a graduate student at the U of Oregon. Mark was an excellent climber. On one occasion, when the weather turned really bad on Mt. Shasta, the three of us turned back.
Your videos get my heart pumping... both blood and emotion. You truly have the ability to tell a tale such as this with the level of respect it demands while maintaining an unbiased viewpoint, allowing the viewer to make their own judgments Absolutely fantastic stuff, my dude. I mean, this is a brutal story. However, you balance it very well. 10/10 👍🏻👍🏻 ✨️
I have Denali’s Howl by Andy Hall. Adventure, interpersonal relationships, and weather can influence our experience. Exciting adventure, but sad outcome. Love nonfiction climbing stories. 👍
Also, Mt Hood at just over 11’ thousand feet has had a fair share of climbing fatalities. Mt Rainier in WA is just over 14,411’ feet. I’m doing it next Sept, but I’ve also climbed Mt St Helens just a few weeks ago as well as Mt Adams which is 12,200’. It has become a major obsession of mine. Must be very careful & plan well so as to not overlook your supplies. I feel so incredibly full gratitude to have all these beautiful 🏔’s within 2-3 hour drive from my home. BTW I’m also in recover, so I find it fills that empty gap drugs & alcohol used to. Excellent video, very well researched & presented my friend. Lastly, it gets my adrenaline pumping bcuz anyone who ventures up mountains always takes risks. Oddly its the thing that makes me feel most A L I V E! Not too mention it keeps you in good shape.
Did the narrator say (at the end) that one of the survivors "looped" another survivor in the eye, as in he struck him? None of these climbers were forced to go on this climb. I hold no one person responsible. I think it's tragic anyone died because all they really wanted was an adventure, may they rest in peace.🌹❤
While Denali is more deadly than most tall mountains there is an area several hundred miles away. There are many reasons why hardly anyone climbs mountains in the St. Elias Mountain Range. I would consider them even more deadly than Denali per accent.
Really great video, it was so gripping from start to finish. I can’t believe an hour has gone by - I didn’t look how long it was before I started watching. I’m a bit unsure who survived though, but possibly that’s because it’s now 4.30 am. You have a new subscriber!
I really loved the ending in this. In spite of everything, it wasn't really their fault, which is at least not a waste of life due to egos and stupidity like usual with these kinds of things.
These things are really good documentaries! Excellent research and graphics as well as personal information abou the various climbers sets it apart. Great job and really a service to anyone of how to approach (or not) great risks in life.
Mount Albert Edward in Strathcona Park (Vancouver Island) had its tragedy as well. I had summited at around noon and slid on ice for nearly 8 meters, finally reaching rock, at which point I slightly sprained my right ankle. Thanks for the content!
I loved this storytelling. Very comprehensive despite there being so many players. What a tragedy and truly all I can think of is the weather created the perfect storm. Yes, some mistakes had been made here and there, but had it not been so severe they likely could have had a chance as young and relatively resourceful people, even if they weren't professionals.
Man, this was complicated. It shows how much work you put into this video. I have enjoyed most of your videos but gave up 21 minutes into it. I may come back to it.. lost in a sea of names and personalities.
the mountain was known as Denali long before 2015- i don’t know if it’s just a north west thing, but i never heard anyone call it McKinley growing up. It really be the true beastie mountain- she is unmatched.
Well finally I learn that Denali used to be called Mt McKinley.It's surprising with all the Himalyan adventures that we don't get more pertaining to Denali. No Sherpas and the vastly harder efforts it takes to approach the place must be much of the reason why
Nowadays, the climbers are shuttled via aircraft from the Talkeetna airport to a base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at the 5500 foot level of Mt McKinley.
There are no Sherpas because they are a Tibetan ethnic group and native to mountainous regions of Tibet and Nepal. Many of these Sherpas are regarded as elite mountaineers.
You know I grew up in upper NY not far from Bear Mountain. LOVED the snow ❄️🌨️ as a kid. Now grown in 1998 married we started skiing every year with friends. I collect rocks and did so at every slope every year I skied. I look at these mountains so beautiful and would love a couple of rocks. Doesn't mean I'm going climbing for them. As SPOCK WOULD SAY " LIVE LONG AND PROSPER 🖖" 🕯️🙏 for those lost lives. 🇺🇸
From what I'm seeing and hearing there where problems before they even started at the camp base. The guy who backed out should have been a sign for the rest.
@@annaroberts3160 I find it amusing how you make this assumption without knowing anything about me (though given the state of the mountains, I can't entirely blame you), especially given not only do I pack out everything I pack in; I also pack out other people's garbage and, on occasion, human waste as well.
It makes one wonder if the victims of Everest 1996 thought of these guys? Or had a moment of clarity with this story in mind? Sounds like many of the same mistakes were made: lackadaisical leadership, split group, late start times, misinterpreting weather on the summit. Even the single lost man (John on Denali and Beck on Everest)
Thank you so much for sharing this story! I didn't know about this, amazingly. I have been in some pretty scary situations in the mountains and all I can say is it can happen to the best and most experienced mountaineers. Accidents. Illness. A series of decisions made that all can end up in tragedy....or close to it. All one can do is try to prepare well and make the right decisions.
In my opinion, it seems to be a culmination of things. Wilcox's inability to effectively and decisively lead, coupled with the division and conflict amongst the team. Even in an ideal situation, these sorts of things often result in tragedy. Add the unforgiving nature of the mountains and weather that can change on the flip of a dime and you have a recipe for disaster. I'm just sad their bodies couldn't be brought down and returned to their loved ones. Especially the one who sent the message from the mountain to his parents. Heartbreaking.
I watch so many of these riveting stories of delight, despair and sadly death and they're so addictive to watch from the comfort of ur chair and just to imagine how it must feel to be stuck on Everest, K2, Denali and the rest of the hellish mountains that men/women try to not climb but conquer as that's what it seems like, they don't just climb it do they, u climb the stairs!!! Just consider leaving ur life long partner alone to die knowing if u stay to help it will undoubtedly lead to ur demise!! Wow I'm not sure I'd come back from that, it'd haunt me!!
I'm impressed by what climbers do you get to the tops of mountains, amazing perseverance and dedication, but anytime you walk in the wilderness it can turn deadly, hypothermia, frostbite, thin air, I don't think many realize just how deadly elevation can be, the weather is a killer, you get caught in severe weather and it's over quickly. RIP🙏
This is not what Denali means. Mostly because of the terms being lost in translation. Don't worry, though...my people have have the story. Chief Mitch Demientieff: "Long before Denali was created, there lived in Alaska an Indian named Yahoo. He possessed great power but had no wife. Yahoo built a canooe and paddled west to find one. As he approached the raven chief village, he began singing a song that explained that he was seeking a wife. The wife of the second chief spoke softly. "You may have my daughter for your wife, but take her and go quickly. The raven chief is preparing to kill you!" Yahoo began to paddle away with the young woman. The raven chief was right behind him. The raven chief caused a great storm. The water became very rough. Yahoo took out a powerful stone and threw it ahead of him, calming the waters, but mountainous green waves continued to roll behind him. Next the raven chief threw his great spear at Yahoo, but Yahoo, using medicine, changed the large wave behind him into a mountain of stone just in time. The great spear glanced off the crest of the stone mountain. There was a second tremendous wave of water, even greater than the first. Yahoo used all his medicine to turn this wave into a tremendous mountain of stone. When the great spear hit the top of the mountain there was a crash of breaking rock and the great spear flew off into the sky. The raven chief was paddling so quickly his canoe struck the second great mountain of stone. The raven chief was thrown onto the rocks where he changed instantly into a raven and flapped to the top of the mountain. Exhausted, Yahoo fell asleep. When he awoke he was back at home with his new wife at his side. Gazing around, Yahoo saw the two mountains he had created. There was a smaller one to the west now called Foraker, but the larger one, the one the great war spear glanced off before shooting into the stars, that mighty dome would be called - Denali! The great one! Being great is only defined by the people around you. Denali is lone standing being that arose from the granite belly to squash a feud with might and power. It protects the lovers, removes the waring weapons, delivered the great spear to where it belongs, and returned the Raven chief to his people as a humbled 2 legged being. I was taught about this expedition as a child, my grandfather told me that the prideful attitudes in the group was our ancestors speaking, saying "do not come", knowing and trying in vain for the sake of these men. A-ho brothers
I've been in -42°F weather and the wind on my exposed skin felt more like fire than cold. (It was -72°F wind chill.) I cannot imagine what 40° colder than that would be like. That has to be well below -100°F wind chill (assuming same wind.)
I can't help but feel bad for Wilcox in some way. I may also be a little bit affected by the fact that he looks a lot like my dad when he was young. But man, what a horrible event. You did so well with the detailed retelling. As a listener, I really felt like I got to know the different people.
My sister is a local ski patrol leader in the winter, and worldwide mountain guide during the summer. A few years ago on the hike back down the summit of Denali, her team came across a two man Polish team who had one member fall into a crevasse, after he unclipped from his rope. My sister was the only person who was small enough to fit where he was wedged in the ice. She said you couldn't even turn your head, it was that tight. She used her ice axe for hours in order to get enough room around him to reattach a rope so rescuers could pull him out to a waiting medevac. He was rescued finally and survived with a broken hip, legs, and other bones. A few months later she got a surprise call from the recovering climber. He offered her a $40,000 budget to buy a vehicle as a thank you for her efforts in saving his life. She bought a van and converted it for mountaineering purposes.
That’s fantastic!!
Your sister is a brave woman. When I first heard that word I thought a crevasse was some sort of bird that lived on the mountain and attacked the mountaineers. Once I saw the photos on Google I immediately felt dizzy. I don't believe I could ever cross above one of those gashes in the ice, let alone risk my life going into them and rescuing someone.
Nice work!
Wow awesome story. Im in alaska and we love it but I live out my dreams through these videos. I wish I would have moved here at a much younger age. Thank you to your sister for being who she is.
Your sister is amazing!! It takes a special person to put themselves in danger to save a stranger, what a nice gift to have been given,so many rescuers get no recognition for their heroism.💕
I climb into bed. That’s it.
I have a step stool to open my window. That's as high as I go
I fell out of bed once.. still in therapy
These mountain men are a special breed, much respect.
I have come to accept that I'll never climb the big mountains or surf the wild waves of Hawaii.
ROFL!
I'll climb and mount you
I've tried to climb Denali twice. It's tried to kill me twice. So, we have a deal going.
The first try, I went the dog route, the west but.
The 2nd time, I tried the Cassin Ridge, a more challenging route. And it was more challenging for certain.
My climb is quite the story. I'll just say I ended up trapped in a 2 man tent with 5 guys. It was terrible, but we all lived. Oh, and since there was a blizzard going on, no one summited.
Before I tried Denali for the 2nd time, I had summited Rainier 5 times, Mt. Hood twice. Mt. Whitney on the mounteers route twice, Mt. Illimani, and Mt. Alpamayo Chico. So, I had a lot of experience on many expeditions. Having experience climbing outside of the US, and my time in the military, along with the incredibly excellent training the military gave me is what saved me and the lives of the 4 other guys with me. As a note, the reason we were all in 1 tent was that the blizzard and potential for an avalanche made it impossible to set up more than 1 tent. Plus, because the temperature got so low, sharing our body heat inside our 5 high mountain sleeping bags helped us survive.
If any of you have the idea of climbing Denali, make sure you have enough experience or you will die. Denali kills climbers all the time. It's the combination of the altitude, the weather, and proximity to the North Pole. Look it up. Do your due diligence. You will understand why it is one of the most difficult peaks to climb in the world. It's one of the most beautiful mountains on Mother Earth. It's also one of the most deadly.
To summit Denali, the mountain must give its permission.
Be safe, be well, and be happy.
@krm215cl:
Fortunately every mountain I look at says No. I have no ability to understand why anyone would want to get on top of one.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I love the mountains, but there is not way I could ever be trained or prepared to climb one. It's not for me.
@munequa81 I am sorry for taking this long to reply.
Sadly, I read that you'll not be able to experience climbing. There are many other ways of enjoying mountains though.
In my case, I spent the happiest days of my youth chasing hunting dogs up and down mountains in the middle of the night. Those times were spent in the company of my Cherokee grandfather, one of my heroes in life. Thus, I was doubly blessed. I kept learning from my grandfather, and I had a deep-abiding love for the dogs running in front of me.
It's a curiosity of mine to explain certain peculiar traits that I possess. I have great night vision and have wondered if there were a connection between it and spending all that time running up and down mountains following a pack of dogs and never carrying a flashlight. It was just me, the dogs, the mountains, and the moon. Eh. Who knows?
What about tackling smaller mountains? Might they provide enough of what you're looking for?
As I don't know your motivation, you've not left any clues about climbing.
Again, my apologies for being so late in replying. I'll try not to let it happen again. Please though, know this, I have an intractable migraine. Yeah, it never goes away. So, if you feel that I'm exceptionally tardy, the intractable migraine could be preventing me from being here.
@@kiasax2 no need for an apology, we all have lives to attend to. Migraines are hell on earth, I completely understand. I think I’ll be satisfied with hiking and maybe smaller mountains, but I don’t have the desire to go any further than that. I find mountains so beautiful and hope to retire in a mountain community when the time comes.
You should write a book, that was profound and beautifully written.
Brad Washburn talked to me about this expedition. He told me that someone from one of the groups wanted Brad’s maps of Denali for the trip. Brad said the group was young and he didn’t think they had enough experience. He said the young man said that he and his pals were planning to wear swim trunks under their clothes, and then take a picture of themselves at the summit in just their swim trunks, because it would be something that had never been done before. Brad told me he said “Well, the mountain has never been climbed backwards or blindfolded either, you could try that!” It’s that comment to me that makes me realize he must have been telling me about THIS expedition. Brad just shook his head. “They didn’t take the mountain seriously.” “Did they make the summit? Did they take the picture?” I asked. He said “They made the summit, they stayed too long, they were caught in a storm on the way down and they died there.”
I was shocked, and speechless. The description of Brad at the end of this video sounds just like him, brisk, moving fast, direct and to the point in his comments--And compassionate to an expedition leader who must have been criticized for his failures. THANKS for your video. I knew Brad when he was Director Emeritus of the Boston Museum of Science, I worked in the Education and later the Exhibits Department. I loved him. He was generous with his time, his praise, and his stories. (Maureen McConnell)
thanks for sharing that story.
normally I'd look at this and think "fake", but damn, this is just too specific for that. thanks for helping further inform us about these people, they're definitely victims of nature and we need to remember they're humans just like us
Maureen @smudgey1kenobey, Did you happen to know Gib Merrill?
All the big peaks like Everest, Denali, K2 etc are known to be deadly. However, Mt. Washington in New Hampshire is often overlooked because it's height isn't, on the surface, especially impressive. However, because of it's unique weather and technical difficulties on certain routes, it is often used when preparing for an Everest climb. It also has many interesting but tragic stories. One that happened to an aquantance of mine in 1992 or 1993. They were caught in a blizzard, and even though they were within feet of the inhabited weather station at the peak, his climbing partner died of hypothermia while he managed to find the building before he succumbed. He did lose several fingers and toes to frostbite and part of his sanity for a while after.
Intense!
Was that the guy who was kicked out of his college outdoor club for being too reckless? As I recall he got a friend to hike with him into terrible weather without being properly prepared and his friend paid the price. The rescue team that went up to retrieve the body had utter contempt for him. His friend froze a long way from the weather station, but he found the weather station and was saved. Mount Washington in winter is serious business, with arctic conditions. Many people have died of exposure there, even in summer, because they assume it's like other New England peaks.
Play with fire, you will get burnt
Horrifying cautionary tale wow
Great information, thank you!!!🙏👍👻
It's a minor thing, but having read "Denali's Howl" last year, I am thrilled that you highlighted the individuals you were talking about in the group photo. 12 guys of roughly the same age, all scruffy and dressed alike...it was really difficult to tell them apart when I was reading the book.
That is a great book. It gives a good overview of Denali's dangers.
Assigning blame is such an impossible thing to do in a situation like this. 12 Young, strong willed, brave men setting out on a feat that most of us would never attempt in a much different time is mind blowing. I know nothing of mountains but I know a lot about the ocean. When there are two weather patterns colliding in that manner, I imagine their location was mostly at fault. Hindsight is amazing in planning the future but does nothing to fix the past. I am in awe of each and every one of these men. Thank you for an amazing video!
Assigning blame isn’t even necessary. I wonder why it’s the most important thing to so many.
@@animula6908 a lot of people feel uncomfortable if they can't split the world in bad/good, guilty /not guilty even if judgement is uncalled for or unnecessary
It's crazy to think of how remote and difficult Denali would have felt in 1967! By the time I was there, one could hop on a plane in Talkeetna and land on the Kahiltna glacier at 7000' with all his gear! Nevertheless, Denali was still challenging. Even on a calm clear June morning, the temperature at high camp was -63 F .
-63 degrees. Dayumm.
Yep that is pretty darn cold and when I moved up here it was really cold, and when you have to drive 3 hours to the nearest town your weather can be raining snowing and sunny all in one trip
Hard to fathom how cold that is. The coldest temp I’ve ever experienced was -7F with strong wind putting the chill to about -20F and the gusts hitting my face took my breath away.
@@kvltizt You get frostbite instantaneously on any exposed skin
Have you had other climbs? Which was your fave?
This is why I'm both fascinated and perplexed by those who climb these high mountains. Watching people die usable to help, or dying myself all while possessing the knowledge I put myself in that position.
If one is a serious climber it is part of the consideration taken when choosing to climb.
Death can be around the corner on any climb for many different reasons, some completely out of our control. The object is to plan ahead by getting years of experience and building proper skills and good habits. Even with all that it can still go horribly wrong.
Ego also keeps many climbers on the mountain when they should have turned around or should never have been there in the first place.
As I like to say Climb Smart. Hope this gives you some insight.
I was a Guide and rescue specialist for 30 years.
I'm equally fascinated - with so many possibilities of dying outside of one's control from homicide to viruses - Why put yourself in such an inhospitable environment? As humans we are so different in what motivates us.
I'd never really been able to explain my interest in mountain climbing disasters before. "Fascinated and perplexed" sums it up in two words.
Well it's interesting to say the least, I just don't like when people get stuck up there and then they have to be flown out which is almost impossible with the weather systems up there you can only see Denali but few days in the summer that's it. I think they have a statement out there that only few people can climb the mountain every year just by like the lottery you can't get into Denali the furthest point as far as the tourist guide to go. The only other way is to do a lottery
@@tygrrrmoore9815 climbing is too much work as well, you have to have alot stamina, endurance and really push your body. People must get a thrill from climbing some place they could die on. It’s way too much work, and risky. It’s so risky sometimes others can’t assist you because the conditions have gotten bad.
This is fast becoming 1 of my favourite channels. With the quality and work you put in, you deserve every success.
thank you so much ⭐️
@@ArchiesArchive Long Live Cuba !
Watching few nights ago some docs about K2 and others I end up here.. Don't know how, don't know why (Yt recommended it).. but I like this channel. Won a subscriber.
Scary interesting is a good RUclips channel too check him out
"Denali's Howl" is an awesome account of these events. It's also written from someone not partisan to either Wilcox or Synder; the leaders of the two groups. Both Wilcox and Snyder have written their own books: "White Winds" and "Hall of the Mountain King" respectively. The narrator of this video shares the point of view of Snyder, leader of the Colorado group, which I find biased. These were a bunch of young men who self funded this expedition on pennies. It was not a professional expedition. It was a group of friends on an adventure. It is wrong to treat Wilcox like Sir Edmund Hillary and do the Monday quarterbacking that Synder does. Wilcox did everything that any reasonable person would expect. the 1967 Denali tragedy is exactly like the 1996 Everest tragedy of Rob Hall''s and Scott Fischer's teams. Both expeditions were during the days prior to advanced weather forecasting and they both ran into freak storms. If anything the 1967 Denali expedition was an example of extreme bad luck as those on the summit came face to face with ‘the perfect storm’ - an artic super blizzard with winds of up to 300 miles an hour. It's horrifying to think what those on the summit experienced. The Mountain Gods decided to let out a fury for whatever reason.
What seems clear to me is the casualness of the decision not to ascend right away when all could have. Had they done so, no one or few would have died but then n0 books written to make money off the incident. The '96 disaster occurred in a tamed landscape as opposed to the '67 disaster where there were very few ppl assuring all the dangers were taken into account. The commercialization of mountaineering certainly has way to many men with deep pockets undertaking the pursuit
Decide to go up without the rest? Hmm..... That was an executive decision.
@@jsigur157 The stronger ones didn't want to be slowed down by the slower ones.
@@Jose_Hunters_EWF_Remixes Thank you for your comment my good man, currently reading Tabor's book, it is a great read.
@@jsigur157 Hindsight is 20/20. They didn't know a storm was coming.
I had the honor and absolute pleasure of working with Jerry Lewis at Denali when he was in his seventies. A kind and gentle soul. What a wonderful human being.
Out of the two though, Dean Martin was more introspective.
Whenever I watch one of these, it brings me back to growing up in the 90's watching documentaries on the History Channel. No other channel has the presentation and meticulous level of detail. If you can somehow make one of these a week, your channel will explode.
It's probably an AI doing it
@@thiefonthecross7552 AI was definitely the narrator, but did it do it all. If so I don't even want to know. Scary.
I’m always so favorably impressed by mountaineers who respect the land, don’t litter and don’t throw their dirty money around for sherpas to risk their lives to satisfy their egos and desires for real experiences. The Everest crowd is disgusting on every level. Corpses, feces and oxygen bottles are their legacy. Bless these boys who did it on their own strength.
Theyre corpses too though
Alaska does not have Sherpas, never has had sherpas. These boys didn't have that option.
Those with money SHOULD "throw their money around" but they don't! Sherpas aren't nearly compensated enough for the amount of work they do or how many lives rely on them or saved by them.
"Dirty money"...well stated!
@@TheDsRequiem oop
After watching these climbing stories I’m glad I was blessed with vertigo.
Yep, gotta hand it to vertigo, keeps you out of a lot of sketchy situations. Does make your family laugh at you sometimes though...
😂
Common sense is enough
With my vertigo I'm happy I make it up the stairs. Even if I didn't have vertigo I have plenty of common sense and zero ego for thrill seeking.
Vertigo....Why don't you get some viagra...that helps with heights...well...is good for raising things....lol
I like how they always say they're going to "conquer" the mountain and "assault" the peek. Well, these mountains are still there but many of the would be conquers and assaulters are not.
Good point.
Mans pride is foolish
These were terms coined by the narrator i believe. Pretty corny
@@sebastianwhalin743 Nah, those are technical terms used by climbers for decades everwhere
Agreed. I guess they see the mountain as an enemy. Sometimes you win, sometimes the mountain. But you can only win the "battle", never the war. The mountains will still be there after our species has long expired
This was a great video! I'd never heard this story before, but you did TONS of research to make it worth listening to. Very sad what happened to these guys. I was born in '67 so, 55 years ago (2022)...that's crazy!
I was born in 67 as well, so yeah, this blows my mind that this was happening out in the world when I was an infant! I had never heard of this story before either.
my mum was born in 67 which is exactly why i chose to watch this from my recommended. so glad i did. what a tragically incredible story
I’ve heard this story a few times before but I liked your video best. You’re the only one who’s gone into detail about who these people were/ their personalities. In previous videos I’d paused it on the group pic and wondered who was the joker/ the leader/ the serious one.. etc. You’ve answered that today, thanks!
An interesting note: Denali is at 63 degrees north latitude, almost up to the Arctic Circle (66 degrees) whereas Mt. Everest is at 27 degrees, like Palm Beach, Florida.
I'm living at 63 degrees north latitude in Finland and no problem in winter. A properly built house with 275 mm insulation in walls, 200 mm in floor and 500 mm in ceiling/roof can stand -40F/-40C easily. Nice and warm inside.
@@herkko61 too bad climbing Denali is not an indoor activity...
@J funny how latitude works that way.
Palm Beach, Florida, is practically at sea level, Mt Everest is over 8,800 metres high. Temperatures drop by 6.5*C every 1000 metres, the higher you go the colder it gets together with a drop in oxygen levels.
About a 4 hour drive to the artic circle. I drove all the way to prodoho bay. Dunked my hands in the arctic ocean. I wanted to swim. I swam in the ocean on the south side of AK, but north side was... At least 50° colder
This is the second tragedy story like this I've listened to where people report hearing voices only to find no one there. I've heard a lot of stories over the years and the strange super natural occurrences always wig me out a bit. I hate that these sort of things happen and it's made worse when there are bad omens going in.
Soldiers in WW2 always told stories about men KNOWING they were going to be dying, sometimes a week before it happening. They'd become worried, melancholy, quiet...some would write letters saying good-bye to their families. In one story, there was a small recon patrol, about 12 guys and the man telling the story said his best friend was scared to stay the night in the barn they'd found. He would not settle down, he kept moving sleeping locations. In the morning, the Germans who had spotted them going in the barn, fired an artillery round that hit the barn, blowing the entire thing to splinters. While a few had minor injuries, only ONE man died...and it was the guy that didn't want to go in the barn. He had ONE injury and it was a small piece of shrapnel that had struck him directly in the forehead.
Life truly is way stranger than fiction.
Stories you don't hear: "Friend o' mine got the death-jitters one day on Okinawa and, well, he's still alive today! Has three kids and runs a boat repair shop -- fun guy."
Reverse survivorship bias, nothing more.
@@foobazabar
You don't HEAR them because they don't happen.
Everyone gets nervous but there is a distinct difference between certain events and sometimes people just KNOW and no one knows HOW they know.
@@TheCountofToulouse But I do know how they "know" -- they're in a warzone and will soon engage in combat. Its not a real thing, there is no great metaphysical explanation required for high-likelihood coincidence. Its just a grim version of a fishing story, that's it.
@@foobazabar it could be just the subconscious picking up on some queues - let's use the WW2 example. Maybe the soldier saw slight movement in the forest with the corner of his eye and that's why he felt uneasy - maybe it was way too subtle to pick up on it consciously but nonetheless he may have saw something like that. Or maybe the dirt around the barn was recently disturbed which would indicate that people were there recently, or something else etc. The prevailing "theory" for sudden gut feelings is that you observe a multitude of visual or auditory queues that, if taken separately, don't mean much, but when taken together at once they spell danger, hence you get such sense of dread but you're unable to pinpoint it logically to just one source. Sounds like a reasonable enough explanation to me, and it would make sense evolutionarily speaking as well
The Brain's lack of oxygen and the body under extreme stress are the culprits.
Hey Archie, I'm enjoying this video, thank you for the work on broadcasting it. I've read one book about this climb, and did a lot of flipping back to the group picture, putting a face to the action. Here, you've done something unique by lighting up each man as the story unfolds. Good job.
I was also supposed to be on this expedition. I was a geology grad student at the University of Alaska. Prior experience was climbing the Matterhorn in Switzerland and Mt. Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe. I also had experience in rock climbing and taken courses in mountain medicine and winter survival training. I also taught ice climbing in the Adirondack Mountain Club Winter Climbing Course at Heart Lake. My problem w@s I needed permission from the U S Army as I had a deferment from active duty for my masters degree. They asked if this was apart of my dissertation and I had to admit that it was not. They therefore did not give me permission to be on the expedition. To this day I am sure this saved my life!!
In May of 1989, I was on Denali where eleven people died! It was the second most stormiest year! I witnessed the weather writing on the mountain and "escaped"! In January 1996, on Aconcagua during high winds and snow, I turned around leading five companions safely back to our 19,200' camp! That same year in May, the same scenario turned tragic with many lives lost on Everest during the infamous Scott Fischer - Rob Hall expeditions. They did not heed their plans of a 2 PM turn around time to descend. Only fools try to conquer mountains!!! Sincerely, Steve Thaw, Moraga, California
This is such a hidden gem of a channel. I have no clue where you get your sources from but you never fail to disappoint on these uploads. Great job man!
thank you so much for watching!
It really is. I'm expecting it to blow up in popularity at some point.
“…you never fail to disappoint…”. Is that a vote of confidence?
"Never fail to disappoint" 🤔
@@13donstalos 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I think Wilcox certainly had some responsibility, by neither having enough experience, nor authority enough, to stop others from making bad decisions. But e.g. without a demand on everyone passing a pre medical check before being allowed to join, how was Wilcox supposed to know one of the men deliberately hid needing to take medication which affected his ability to eat.
I’m not saying he should of known, but informing all climbers the perils of the journey, knowing who you are taking on the journey , and educating them of medications and warning signs of certain sickness and unpleasant experiences climbing so high. And they would be stuck together and they might need to depend on each other. And making
@@whitedragoness23 Yeah, but it's not the first time I've heared about someone so determined to do something, that they do everything to hide, and/or ignore a severe medical problem that should've stopped them. And it's not only in mountaineering it happens.
@@FinnishLapphund I was doing a bit more reading the leader should of told them to go up or down. If that had happened then lives would of been saved
@@whitedragoness23 I partly agree, as I said in my first post, I do think he had some responsibility. But at the same time, it's easy for us to say that from our bystanders point of view, all these years later. Then and there, he was up there, at an altitude which might have affected his thought process, and the weather wasn't yet that bad when he left the camp to continue his descent.
if, the group more cohesive.
if, they go up sooner.
if, they were told to go down.
if, they were listen to go up and not dilly dally.
if, if, if...
the truth is that mountaineering is a very dangerous sport, you cannot be cocky, you need to know your own strength, you need to know your weaknesses even more, and you have to be a team player, and lastly you have to have common sense.
the mountain will be there next year.
Very well written, and significantly more informative than most channels of this nature.
Excellent documentary. I cannot overstate how compelling, informative and dramatic this presentation is.
This was good - well researched and well presented. Your use of the group photo throughout the story was super helpful in putting faces to the names and much appreciated.
Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest spent every day in the forests we went to Alaska every summer one year we went to Denali I told Dad we should climb it he said she's beautiful from here but from atop she's deadly.
Not a mountaineer, but a hiker and I love the mountains. The risks of high altitude were brought home to me reading about the 1986 K2 disaster, altitude sickness and summit fever contributing to the loss of many experienced climbers.
I've no intention of trying to summit a high mountain and I'll never be fit enough anyway, plus there is no pride in dying in a mountain even if you have submitted.
This was an ill thought out team with mediocre leadership and poor luck with the weather.
I've recently found a few similar channels all good content but yours is the only ones who does long videos, the others are all too short. Thanks a lot, keep it up.
Thank you! What an excellent documentary. It adds the background details smoothly, with a summary of the biographies of each climber. I also appreciate the mini lessons on weather patterns and general informative format of the show. Your altitude comparison with Everest helped me realize that even though it's the tallest, many other peaks require a longer climb by distance. Great channel. Subscribed :)
Super well done video, one of the best. The highlighting and descriptions of each man very well done. Good maps and scenery. Excellent narration well paced and informative.
It made me feel sad. Strong, young, men with a lot to offer, lost their entire lives. They also left many others who loved them with great pain.
Dude, your killing it with these amazing videos.
I'll never truly understand the desire to put one's self through the abuse of climbing frozen piles of rock. Even if everything goes perfect you are still half dead by the time you finish. Love hearing the accounts of those who do it though.
I want to climb this mountain so bad.
I love climbing, but I always turn back while I am still having fun. I travel “heavy and slow” rather than “light and fast,” so I probably turn back as often as I summit. The upside of this is that I haven’t ever become hypothermic or dehydrated.
If the ascent requires more than hiking poles and ice crampons, I don’t do it.
🤣🤣🤣
The same reason why you like hearing about it except they’re actually living and experiencing it
@@Tina06019 why climb heavy and slow? Won’t that tire you out too much ?
BEST coverage of this story online. Thanks!
Awesome video my friend. Very detailed. The way you covered this story is captivating, the descriptions of the men made me feel like I knew them and could appreciate their individual roles, which made the story all the more tragic an meaningful.
Great presentation,first time watching a documentary of Denali. I am deeply drawn to mountain climbing stories and documentaries. I really admire the climbers but my deepest fascination is how one could choose to go where it is so cold and brutal. ❤
Just discovered you brother, fantastic video. Very well thought out, concise and gripping, I look forward to watching your channel, top stuff 👍👊
When someone is obsessed, all the warnings from family and friends go in one ear and out the other without stopping to absorb. It's very frustrating from the families.
Very true
I'm utterly fascinated by mountaineering stories, the absolute strength and courage required, so thank you for that. This ascent seemed fated early on as had been observed. Unfortunately, mountain climbing is fraught with ego and conflict combined with weather, altitude sickness and crevasses, especially in descent. The thrill of a mountain top is dependent on multiple factors meshing together favourably, so it is worth the risk. Incidentally, I was born at the time the climbers began their expedition.
@New Jack City they are truly the unsung heroes
I just luv how you took the time to talk a lil about EVERY guy!! ❤
Oh my gosh, I was riveted to this story. Excellent job putting it together...such great research.
I love hiking and I'm definitely a amateur by any means in terms of heights and weather conditions but the levels these guys go for are a zone I never wish to attempt, I can see no joy in pushing it to these limits although I respect the willpower needed to endure such hardships and respect the level of commitment and love they have for the mountains this is definitely for a specific breed of adventurer
Obsessions are terrible things.
Here in NH we have Mt. Washington as the tallest at 6,233'. I've done it three times. I won't do it again. I'm a senior citizen, old lady, so respect what my body says. She takes longer to recover from 'events' then she used to. Some people don't do that. I read every week the falls, deaths that happened over the previous weekend. One example: A man had a heart attack at 4,000' just face planted down, boom, gone. His wife, hiking with him, said: "He's had heart problems."
Obsessions are terrible things.
Your narration totally gets me into these stories. I know I'm going to be sad because someone ends up hurt or dead. Please keep up the great work! Love your channel
Falling upside down into an ice crevasse that tapers oh so gently is one of my worst fears. Every slip is due to your body temperature or panic, slowly suffocating you.
What a specific fear. Do you often find yourself slipping into ice crevasses?
@Maddie B. ive had nightmares about it for sure. my biggest fear is waking up burried inside a pipe. i know it's probably never going to happen but i think about it a lot. just one of those strange phobias i guess. im very very claustrophobic
My biggest fear is dying of dehydration on the sea, or in a desert.
It’s also weirdly specific. I suppose it’s because I have had serious heat injury with confusion and brief loss of consciousness. Pretty ghastly event.
These phobias are most likely deaths actually encountered during previous lifetimes/incarnations.
@@yvonnesmith6152 "most likely"?
That's too specific to be likely and you know it. My imagination is enough to suffice for this fear.
I love your stories every couple months,I love it when you pop up!
The work that's obviously gone into making this video.. Fantastic Thanks.
It's the cold. I could never handle the cold.
It’s the heights for me lol
Did not know how tough, and tall Denali really is. Respect.
There are many situations that people claim only the brave would do......well, sometimes people are just dumb...not brave, and those people put everyone else at risk because they are just ignorant of the danger
This was excellent. I’m always excited when you put up a video. Very thorough investigation. Also, your voice and narration is great. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks!
voice and narration were fking terrible and grating to my ears
I’m physically fit.
I did many perfect scores in USMC
Fitness tests. Ran a marathon
Did 400 pull ups on my 40th birthday.
Ridden my bicycle across the USA.
There’s no way I would try to climb a
20,000ft Mt
Great job on narrating this tragic story. Really interesting throughout. 👍🙏
Thanks for showing pics of the individuals when referring to them. That is a lot of names/faces to keep track of. Well done young man.
Excellent video of this tragic climb. I climbed with Mark McLaughlin back in the 1960s as a graduate student at the U of Oregon. Mark was an excellent climber. On one occasion, when the weather turned really bad on Mt. Shasta, the three of us turned back.
Can see you with a million subscribers pretty soon! Great channel!
just love your style! so respectful and concise. thank you for your videos my friend.
A very good presentation of this tragedy. Thank you!
Your videos get my heart pumping... both blood and emotion. You truly have the ability to tell a tale such as this with the level of respect it demands while maintaining an unbiased viewpoint, allowing the viewer to make their own judgments
Absolutely fantastic stuff, my dude. I mean, this is a brutal story. However, you balance it very well. 10/10 👍🏻👍🏻 ✨️
I love your videos Archie. You are so knowledgeable about these mountains and expeditions
I have Denali’s Howl by Andy Hall. Adventure, interpersonal relationships, and weather can influence our experience. Exciting adventure, but sad outcome. Love nonfiction climbing stories. 👍
Im always shocked how cold blooded people can be when trying to get to the top of mountains.
Also, Mt Hood at just over 11’ thousand feet has had a fair share of climbing fatalities. Mt Rainier in WA is just over 14,411’ feet. I’m doing it next Sept, but I’ve also climbed Mt St Helens just a few weeks ago as well as Mt Adams which is 12,200’. It has become a major obsession of mine. Must be very careful & plan well so as to not overlook your supplies. I feel so incredibly full gratitude to have all these beautiful 🏔’s within 2-3 hour drive from my home. BTW I’m also in recover, so I find it fills that empty gap drugs & alcohol used to. Excellent video, very well researched & presented my friend. Lastly, it gets my adrenaline pumping bcuz anyone who ventures up mountains always takes risks. Oddly its the thing that makes me feel most A L I V E! Not too mention it keeps you in good shape.
Been checking every week for a new video , fire channel wish you posted more with this great of quality 🔥🔥🔥
What a great job writing this story, gonna binge watch bunch more of your content. Thank you
Majorly underrated channel!
Did the narrator say (at the end) that one of the survivors "looped" another survivor in the eye, as in he struck him? None of these climbers were forced to go on this climb. I hold no one person responsible. I think it's tragic anyone died because all they really wanted was an adventure, may they rest in peace.🌹❤
Thats what it sounced like but he just meant looked him in the eye, as he told him it wasnt his fault
Looked.
@@melodi996 Oh thank you both for clarifying.😊👍👍
While Denali is more deadly than most tall mountains there is an area several hundred miles away. There are many reasons why hardly anyone climbs mountains in the St. Elias Mountain Range. I would consider them even more deadly than Denali per accent.
What's crazy is the possibility of the frozen victims being in/ under ice for millions of years. Nature is very scary.
These documentaries are so good. Fantastic channel and content!
Really great video, it was so gripping from start to finish. I can’t believe an hour has gone by - I didn’t look how long it was before I started watching. I’m a bit unsure who survived though, but possibly that’s because it’s now 4.30 am. You have a new subscriber!
From a few videos about the climb, this one is the best. Great research - very detailed and informative
I love this channel…great story telling, interesting subjects. Thank you for sharing your talents 🤗
This channel is awesome. Thank you for all your hard work !!
I really loved the ending in this. In spite of everything, it wasn't really their fault, which is at least not a waste of life due to egos and stupidity like usual with these kinds of things.
What an amazing narration 😊
The effects of high altitude, affects the climbers good judgment and decisions making.
Isn't that the motto for all peak baggers, each man for himself?
You did an amazing job on this documentary
I hope Denali never becomes the garbage dump that Everest is now. It's a shame to disrespect these beautiful natural wonders.
These things are really good documentaries! Excellent research and graphics as well as personal information abou the various climbers sets it apart. Great job and really a service to anyone of how to approach (or not) great risks in life.
Mount Albert Edward in Strathcona Park (Vancouver Island) had its tragedy as well. I had summited at around noon and slid on ice for nearly 8 meters, finally reaching rock, at which point I slightly sprained my right ankle. Thanks for the content!
Oof! Must have been scary as fuck! I've had dreams about rolling or sliding off mountains. But in those dreams I was able to walk it off lol
@@rickysmith6081 still recovering
I loved this storytelling. Very comprehensive despite there being so many players. What a tragedy and truly all I can think of is the weather created the perfect storm. Yes, some mistakes had been made here and there, but had it not been so severe they likely could have had a chance as young and relatively resourceful people, even if they weren't professionals.
Thank you from Alaska for getting Denali's name correct! ❤
Man, this was complicated.
It shows how much work you put into this video. I have enjoyed most of your videos but gave up 21 minutes into it. I may come back to it.. lost in a sea of names and personalities.
the mountain was known as Denali long before 2015- i don’t know if it’s just a north west thing, but i never heard anyone call it McKinley growing up. It really be the true beastie mountain- she is unmatched.
Well finally I learn that Denali used to be called Mt McKinley.It's surprising with all the Himalyan adventures that we don't get more pertaining to Denali. No Sherpas and the vastly harder efforts it takes to approach the place must be much of the reason why
Nowadays, the climbers are shuttled via aircraft from the Talkeetna airport to a base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at the 5500 foot level of Mt McKinley.
There are no Sherpas because they are a Tibetan ethnic group and native to mountainous regions of Tibet and Nepal. Many of these Sherpas are regarded as elite mountaineers.
@@borleyboo5613 Yea, probably should have said "Sherpa like"
I've been wondering for a while why I've never heard of Denali before. Now Mt McKinley I've heard of.
@@SC-jh9qp Exactly, I thought it was in South America!😄😄😄
You know I grew up in upper NY not far from Bear Mountain. LOVED the snow ❄️🌨️ as a kid. Now grown in 1998 married we started skiing every year with friends. I collect rocks and did so at every slope every year I skied. I look at these mountains so beautiful and would love a couple of rocks. Doesn't mean I'm going climbing for them. As SPOCK WOULD SAY " LIVE LONG AND PROSPER 🖖" 🕯️🙏 for those lost lives. 🇺🇸
From what I'm seeing and hearing there where problems before they even started at the camp base. The guy who backed out should have been a sign for the rest.
No matter what, you will never be able to beat Mother Nature. She always wins!!
As a mountaineer planning to one day climb Denali, incidents like this are a stark reminder of just how dangerous this sport can turn.
Great...one more person to leave their garbage on a mountain.
@@annaroberts3160 I find it amusing how you make this assumption without knowing anything about me (though given the state of the mountains, I can't entirely blame you), especially given not only do I pack out everything I pack in; I also pack out other people's garbage and, on occasion, human waste as well.
Don't be shocked when something bad happens.
Godspeed Logan
Terrible tragedy. Your video was fantastic and very well researched. Thanks.😊
It makes one wonder if the victims of Everest 1996 thought of these guys? Or had a moment of clarity with this story in mind? Sounds like many of the same mistakes were made: lackadaisical leadership, split group, late start times, misinterpreting weather on the summit. Even the single lost man (John on Denali and Beck on Everest)
Thank you so much for sharing this story! I didn't know about this, amazingly. I have been in some pretty scary situations in the mountains and all I can say is it can happen to the best and most experienced mountaineers. Accidents. Illness. A series of decisions made that all can end up in tragedy....or close to it. All one can do is try to prepare well and make the right decisions.
In my opinion, it seems to be a culmination of things. Wilcox's inability to effectively and decisively lead, coupled with the division and conflict amongst the team. Even in an ideal situation, these sorts of things often result in tragedy. Add the unforgiving nature of the mountains and weather that can change on the flip of a dime and you have a recipe for disaster. I'm just sad their bodies couldn't be brought down and returned to their loved ones. Especially the one who sent the message from the mountain to his parents. Heartbreaking.
I watch so many of these riveting stories of delight, despair and sadly death and they're so addictive to watch from the comfort of ur chair and just to imagine how it must feel to be stuck on Everest, K2, Denali and the rest of the hellish mountains that men/women try to not climb but conquer as that's what it seems like, they don't just climb it do they, u climb the stairs!!! Just consider leaving ur life long partner alone to die knowing if u stay to help it will undoubtedly lead to ur demise!! Wow I'm not sure I'd come back from that, it'd haunt me!!
I'm impressed by what climbers do you get to the tops of mountains, amazing perseverance and dedication, but anytime you walk in the wilderness it can turn deadly, hypothermia, frostbite, thin air, I don't think many realize just how deadly elevation can be, the weather is a killer, you get caught in severe weather and it's over quickly. RIP🙏
This is not what Denali means. Mostly because of the terms being lost in translation.
Don't worry, though...my people have have the story.
Chief Mitch Demientieff: "Long before Denali was created, there lived in Alaska an Indian named Yahoo. He possessed great power but had no wife. Yahoo built a canooe and paddled west to find one. As he approached the raven chief village, he began singing a song that explained that he was seeking a wife.
The wife of the second chief spoke softly. "You may have my daughter for your wife, but take her and go quickly. The raven chief is preparing to kill you!"
Yahoo began to paddle away with the young woman. The raven chief was right behind him. The raven chief caused a great storm. The water became very rough. Yahoo took out a powerful stone and threw it ahead of him, calming the waters, but mountainous green waves continued to roll behind him.
Next the raven chief threw his great spear at Yahoo, but Yahoo, using medicine, changed the large wave behind him into a mountain of stone just in time. The great spear glanced off the crest of the stone mountain. There was a second tremendous wave of water, even greater than the first. Yahoo used all his medicine to turn this wave into a tremendous mountain of stone. When the great spear hit the top of the mountain there was a crash of breaking rock and the great spear flew off into the sky.
The raven chief was paddling so quickly his canoe struck the second great mountain of stone. The raven chief was thrown onto the rocks where he changed instantly into a raven and flapped to the top of the mountain. Exhausted, Yahoo fell asleep. When he awoke he was back at home with his new wife at his side. Gazing around, Yahoo saw the two mountains he had created. There was a smaller one to the west now called Foraker, but the larger one, the one the great war spear glanced off before shooting into the stars, that mighty dome would be called - Denali! The great one! Being great is only defined by the people around you. Denali is lone standing being that arose from the granite belly to squash a feud with might and power. It protects the lovers, removes the waring weapons, delivered the great spear to where it belongs, and returned the Raven chief to his people as a humbled 2 legged being.
I was taught about this expedition as a child, my grandfather told me that the prideful attitudes in the group was our ancestors speaking, saying "do not come", knowing and trying in vain for the sake of these men.
A-ho brothers
I've been in -42°F weather and the wind on my exposed skin felt more like fire than cold. (It was -72°F wind chill.)
I cannot imagine what 40° colder than that would be like. That has to be well below -100°F wind chill (assuming same wind.)
I can't help but feel bad for Wilcox in some way. I may also be a little bit affected by the fact that he looks a lot like my dad when he was young.
But man, what a horrible event.
You did so well with the detailed retelling. As a listener, I really felt like I got to know the different people.