Thanks, it is just a beast the base model without the AutoDrive/arm/motor is 1200lbs. So we're at around 1500lbs or so, it probably needs a larger motor, and I'm not too happy with the look of the current one either. There is one sound that has been bothering me though. The bull gear pin rattles around and I assume that if it's rattling, it's also wearing down the mating parts, so that needs a little adjustment. I'm hesitant because I already lost the bolt inside the cone once, and that requires dis-assembly of the head-stock to get access. I should have another video coming out in the next few weeks about the Autodrive specifically. Thanks for the comment.
Oh man! Having the bolt fall inside would suck!! I saw someone in a video working on either the fuel or coolant system on a loader with the fill cap off on top. They took a part off the side of the machine and when they went to set it on top... Bloop! Right into the tank! lol - I'm chasing down a rattle or ten myself on a little mill I dragged home cheap. I guess I would have thought your lathe to be more in the 1800 to 1 ton range, but machines can be deceiving like that. Either they're heavier than you think, or they're 3 times heavier than you think. :) @@NeedItMakeIt
It was a lot of work, I still have a few small items left, and now that we have warm weather I can finish them up. The biggest disappointment with this lathe is that the 4 jaw chuck does not fit, the threads are very close but are too tight, so I'm not sure what happened there, but that would explain why the 4 jaw doesn't have a scratch on it. Thanks for the nice comment, there will be more videos in future featuring items made with this lathe, so I hope you keep an eye our for them. Take care.
I have almost the same John Bertram and Sons lathe here in Nova Scotia. Sure wish I had the four jaw chuck! The three jaw chuck, by appearance, looks identical to mine. Not very accurate due to age, but I can still turn out some decent stuff. Just can't use it to make watch parts. Great videos! Thanks. Doug
My apologies for the late reply. This 4 jaw is nearly unused but I certainly am glad I have it though, because I do not have the reversing teeth for the 3 jaw, and it limits what I can do. There were posts on Practical Machinist for a lathe that is nearly like mine, it was restored and painted black. I understood that it was sold to someone living in New Brunswick about 8+ years ago. From what I recall, the machine had two new reversing gears which were from Boston Gear, and he did nice work to replace them. www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/john-bertram-sons-lathe-saved-230971/ I once lived in Nova Scotia years ago, Cornwallis, very nice place... though the winter on the bay was very harsh. I have plans in future for more videos on this lathe, once we have warmer weather I'll be back in the shop. Take care,
The 11 marks on the chuck are to align/assemble in correct position ive got an 1914 colchester lathe i restored that uses a mixture of dots and numbers for the same purpose on all its parts, its important with the chuck because it helps keep it balanced
A colchester! They are incredible machines, i’d love to have one down the line. I had to downsize to a SB 9A for the new shop. Thanks for the comment, had no idea about that, but it makes sense
I like to see old equipment/tools restored. I think you would have been very close in paint color if you had used Oliver - Implement and Tractor Paint. The old Oliver tractors were very close to the original color. Hey what part of the country are you in?
Also mine is missing that mount and auto drive, but i believe i have the factory motor mounted on some home made angle iron bracketry. Have you ever seen another auto drive and or bracket?
It was very common practice for manufacturers of machinery, back in the early part of the last century, to protect cast iron with japanning to prevent rust. It was applied as a thick coating and baked-on to cure. It worked very well as a protective sealant that was relatively hard and had some flexibility; similar to what plastic coating is today. Usually each different manufacturer had their own recipe/formula and process for their own japanning, and some of the ingredients they used back then are considered toxic and hazardous by our current safety standards. The primary color was black and some dark colors, which varied due to the different formulas. Japanning did a better job preventing rust long term on cast iron parts than the paints that were available back then. In my restoration work I do not remove the japanning; just clean the surfaces, remove any rust and then prime and paint to match color. Japanning that survives is still working to protect the surface from rust, even after a century. There are sources that can be found online that offer japanning recipes/processes that are considered to be safe to use and will allow one to replicate the look and feel of a japanning finish today.
Temper your parts in an oven and quench in clean oil thats what i did now ive got nice rustproof gold couloured steel parts that dont need oiling and are grease free (aka hot bluing)
Great job on the restoration. It's real purdy I live in Ontario and drive by the Dundas area from time to time. What is the address for that museum you mentioned in the video? The lathe I have is quite similar to yours and have been looking around to really nail down which one it actually is Cheers
I have one of these thats older and a foot pedal i believe any idea where to get parts? Mostly missing gears, screws, and the drive i think but not sure i would love to find a diagram on it but its so old i caint find anything on it.
Looks like a nice lathe and restoration. Thank you for sharing your work. I am currently in the process of restoring a 1950ies lathe of similar size. It is a lot of work, so I have a deep respect for what you have already achieved. You lathe seems to run very smoothly. Did you do any restoration work on the spindle bearings? How do your bearings work? They do not look like tapered bearings which are adjustable by a pair of nuts? Looking forward to see more of your restoration Harald
Thanks, it was a lot of work to get it cleaned up, it turns out that a high-powered pressure washer was the best solution for paint removal. It runs well, though I don't have much to compare it to. Someone else referred to it as a 'Total Loss' meaning that all of the oil drains out for the entire machine, that's true for most of it except a few parts of the apron which do have areas to keep the gears lubricated. The spindle bearings are bronze "Bushings" really, and they are not tapered. The best was to show you how it works is to send you to the video on making the spanner wrench, it shows the components which remove end-play. I have plans on making quite a few more videos on my lathe restoration, I will be casting some parts from brass and machining them on the lathe, which will be used on the lathe also. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/yG7S9TPXSQg/видео.html it's a very simple setup, and I'll be making some replacement parts in future for this part of the lathe also. Send me some photos of your lathe or put it up on Practical Machinist since you have me interested now. Thanks, and I look forward to seeing your machine.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you very much for your detailed reply! I document the work on my lathe on the German "Zerspanungsbude" ("chip making barrack") forum. See here forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=24764 Unfortunately the discussion is in German language, but I hope that the photographs tell part of the story. In addition I have a video showing how I made a new spindle bearing: ruclips.net/video/bBUZck9wwo8/видео.html All the best and keep on your good work Harald
That is a nice strong looking machine, I like the green. It has a few more safety features which would be nice to have on mine as well. My German is not great, though I have been learning since 2004 so I can pickup the odd word in the forum, thank you for sharing mein freund.
Hi from England Does that backlash remain constant throughout the full travel of the cross slide...? Or does it tighten up towards each extremity of its travel..?
There is backlash for the full travel, when I had everything apart, it seems that the nut is very worn, there is some wear on the thread, but it looks like it is mostly on the Nut.. I have plans on making a replacement, but I am an amateur and that is a more complex project, especially since this is not ACME, it is square thread. Any thoughts? I know this is a LH thread, just to make it even more interesting to make. I have a 3D printer, I was thinking to make the part from plastic create a plaster mold, then melt out the plastic and create a bronze replacement. I'd have to put a lot of effort into any solution I choose I think. Any thoughts on this idea?
I do not, I'd have to go back and see exactly which are missing, for sure I am missing a large gear, I believe it would be around 125T, these are 14P which are a non-standard size , so even Boston Gear doesn't sell this anymore. How about your machine, do you have all of the gears? Also do you care to do a video of your lathe and put it on You-tube? I'm interested to see it and compare.
I wish mine were as complete as yours, wow! It would be great to have the steady rest and follower.. I've been looking for another like mine to purchase to make it complete, but there is only one I've seen and it had been sold to someone in NB years back.
@@NeedItMakeIt Hello there my fellow enthusiast, just happens that I would like to sell it to someone like yourself who appreciates these old machines. You can email me at dphjunior@comcast.net....if your interested. Note, the price is low, under 2K, and I probably can ship it freight to your house of business...Take care, Dave
hi David its carl never settle how are you I would so like to talk to you sir have had med problims with my wife .to the oner of that lathe looks nice looks like cross slide nut needs to be replased i am trying to get my chanell up loaded with all kinds of stuff i would so like to talk to bouth of you gentilem i am looking for a pick of the doors on the leges and the lower feed gears number and tooth count that out and left cuts a dead center taper in the head stock carlbaumgardt2015@gmail.com i have so mutch to shair
Hey there NeedItMakeIt, Greetings from David, are you still interested in this beauty, price is negotiable if you want it...….Let me know please, many extra parts come with it. Take Care, David
Hi David, it is a fantastic machine, but I think my next lathe will have to be a small one as I have no space left in my 1 car garage/workshop. I have metal-working and woodworking machinery all jam packed inside, so time to part with some of my tools too I think :(
That lathe have more one hundred years old and working perfect congratulations and god bless you
I love using it, a great old machine. Can you believe my Old Ford ranger tool the entire lathe in one go?
Wow! It's amazingly quiet. Looks heavy as heck too. Nice!
Thanks, it is just a beast the base model without the AutoDrive/arm/motor is 1200lbs. So we're at around 1500lbs or so, it probably needs a larger motor, and I'm not too happy with the look of the current one either. There is one sound that has been bothering me though. The bull gear pin rattles around and I assume that if it's rattling, it's also wearing down the mating parts, so that needs a little adjustment. I'm hesitant because I already lost the bolt inside the cone once, and that requires dis-assembly of the head-stock to get access.
I should have another video coming out in the next few weeks about the Autodrive specifically.
Thanks for the comment.
Oh man! Having the bolt fall inside would suck!! I saw someone in a video working on either the fuel or coolant system on a loader with the fill cap off on top. They took a part off the side of the machine and when they went to set it on top... Bloop! Right into the tank! lol - I'm chasing down a rattle or ten myself on a little mill I dragged home cheap. I guess I would have thought your lathe to be more in the 1800 to 1 ton range, but machines can be deceiving like that. Either they're heavier than you think, or they're 3 times heavier than you think. :) @@NeedItMakeIt
Restoring a lathe like that is not a small undertaking.Lovely job.
It was a lot of work, I still have a few small items left, and now that we have warm weather I can finish them up. The biggest disappointment with this lathe is that the 4 jaw chuck does not fit, the threads are very close but are too tight, so I'm not sure what happened there, but that would explain why the 4 jaw doesn't have a scratch on it.
Thanks for the nice comment, there will be more videos in future featuring items made with this lathe, so I hope you keep an eye our for them.
Take care.
I have almost the same John Bertram and Sons lathe here in Nova Scotia. Sure wish I had the four jaw chuck! The three jaw chuck, by appearance, looks identical to mine. Not very accurate due to age, but I can still turn out some decent stuff. Just can't use it to make watch parts. Great videos! Thanks. Doug
My apologies for the late reply. This 4 jaw is nearly unused but I certainly am glad I have it though, because I do not have the reversing teeth for the 3 jaw, and it limits what I can do. There were posts on Practical Machinist for a lathe that is nearly like mine, it was restored and painted black. I understood that it was sold to someone living in New Brunswick about 8+ years ago. From what I recall, the machine had two new reversing gears which were from Boston Gear, and he did nice work to replace them.
www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/john-bertram-sons-lathe-saved-230971/
I once lived in Nova Scotia years ago, Cornwallis, very nice place... though the winter on the bay was very harsh.
I have plans in future for more videos on this lathe, once we have warmer weather I'll be back in the shop.
Take care,
you done great job it looks beautiful!
The 11 marks on the chuck are to align/assemble in correct position ive got an 1914 colchester lathe i restored that uses a mixture of dots and numbers for the same purpose on all its parts, its important with the chuck because it helps keep it balanced
A colchester! They are incredible machines, i’d love to have one down the line. I had to downsize to a SB 9A for the new shop. Thanks for the comment, had no idea about that, but it makes sense
I like to see old equipment/tools restored. I think you would have been very close in paint color if you had used Oliver - Implement and Tractor Paint. The old Oliver tractors were very close to the original color. Hey what part of the country are you in?
Also mine is missing that mount and auto drive, but i believe i have the factory motor mounted on some home made angle iron bracketry. Have you ever seen another auto drive and or bracket?
It was very common practice for manufacturers of machinery, back in the early part of the last century, to protect cast iron with japanning to prevent rust. It was applied as a thick coating and baked-on to cure. It worked very well as a protective sealant that was relatively hard and had some flexibility; similar to what plastic coating is today. Usually each different manufacturer had their own recipe/formula and process for their own japanning, and some of the ingredients they used back then are considered toxic and hazardous by our current safety standards. The primary color was black and some dark colors, which varied due to the different formulas. Japanning did a better job preventing rust long term on cast iron parts than the paints that were available back then.
In my restoration work I do not remove the japanning; just clean the surfaces, remove any rust and then prime and paint to match color. Japanning that survives is still working to protect the surface from rust, even after a century. There are sources that can be found online that offer japanning recipes/processes that are considered to be safe to use and will allow one to replicate the look and feel of a japanning finish today.
Temper your parts in an oven and quench in clean oil thats what i did now ive got nice rustproof gold couloured steel parts that dont need oiling and are grease free (aka hot bluing)
Great job on the restoration. It's real purdy
I live in Ontario and drive by the Dundas area from time to time. What is the address for that museum you mentioned in the video?
The lathe I have is quite similar to yours and have been looking around to really nail down which one it actually is
Cheers
muy buen video ..que maquina mas bonita. una reliquia
I have one of these thats older and a foot pedal i believe any idea where to get parts? Mostly missing gears, screws, and the drive i think but not sure i would love to find a diagram on it but its so old i caint find anything on it.
Looks like a nice lathe and restoration. Thank you for sharing your work.
I am currently in the process of restoring a 1950ies lathe of similar size. It is a lot of work, so I have a deep respect for what you have already achieved.
You lathe seems to run very smoothly. Did you do any restoration work on the spindle bearings? How do your bearings work? They do not look like tapered bearings which are adjustable by a pair of nuts?
Looking forward to see more of your restoration Harald
Thanks, it was a lot of work to get it cleaned up, it turns out that a high-powered pressure washer was the best solution for paint removal. It runs well, though I don't have much to compare it to. Someone else referred to it as a 'Total Loss' meaning that all of the oil drains out for the entire machine, that's true for most of it except a few parts of the apron which do have areas to keep the gears lubricated. The spindle bearings are bronze "Bushings" really, and they are not tapered. The best was to show you how it works is to send you to the video on making the spanner wrench, it shows the components which remove end-play. I have plans on making quite a few more videos on my lathe restoration, I will be casting some parts from brass and machining them on the lathe, which will be used on the lathe also. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/yG7S9TPXSQg/видео.html it's a very simple setup, and I'll be making some replacement parts in future for this part of the lathe also.
Send me some photos of your lathe or put it up on Practical Machinist since you have me interested now.
Thanks, and I look forward to seeing your machine.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you very much for your detailed reply!
I document the work on my lathe on the German "Zerspanungsbude" ("chip making barrack") forum. See here forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=24764 Unfortunately the discussion is in German language, but I hope that the photographs tell part of the story.
In addition I have a video showing how I made a new spindle bearing: ruclips.net/video/bBUZck9wwo8/видео.html
All the best and keep on your good work
Harald
That is a nice strong looking machine, I like the green. It has a few more safety features which would be nice to have on mine as well. My German is not great, though I have been learning since 2004 so I can pickup the odd word in the forum, thank you for sharing mein freund.
Beast
Hi from England
Does that backlash remain constant throughout the full travel of the cross slide...?
Or does it tighten up towards each extremity of its travel..?
There is backlash for the full travel, when I had everything apart, it seems that the nut is very worn, there is some wear on the thread, but it looks like it is mostly on the Nut.. I have plans on making a replacement, but I am an amateur and that is a more complex project, especially since this is not ACME, it is square thread. Any thoughts? I know this is a LH thread, just to make it even more interesting to make.
I have a 3D printer, I was thinking to make the part from plastic create a plaster mold, then melt out the plastic and create a bronze replacement. I'd have to put a lot of effort into any solution I choose I think. Any thoughts on this idea?
@@NeedItMakeIt
Yep....
It's the nut that's fucked...
Make a new one...
Soon, I'll be back in the shop making more videos using this lathe and this will definitely be one of the projects, but I need more skill first.
Do you have the rest of the change gears?
I do not, I'd have to go back and see exactly which are missing, for sure I am missing a large gear, I believe it would be around 125T, these are 14P which are a non-standard size , so even Boston Gear doesn't sell this anymore. How about your machine, do you have all of the gears?
Also do you care to do a video of your lathe and put it on You-tube? I'm interested to see it and compare.
Our lathes are very similar
I wish mine were as complete as yours, wow! It would be great to have the steady rest and follower.. I've been looking for another like mine to purchase to make it complete, but there is only one I've seen and it had been sold to someone in NB years back.
@@NeedItMakeIt Hello there my fellow enthusiast, just happens that I would like to sell it to someone like yourself who appreciates these old machines. You can email me at dphjunior@comcast.net....if your interested. Note, the price is low, under 2K, and I probably can ship it freight to your house of business...Take care, Dave
hi David its carl never settle how are you I would so like to talk to you sir have had med problims with my wife .to the oner of that lathe looks nice looks like cross slide nut needs to be replased i am trying to get my chanell up loaded with all kinds of stuff i would so like to talk to bouth of you gentilem i am looking for a pick of the doors on the leges and the lower feed gears number and tooth count that out and left cuts a dead center taper in the head stock carlbaumgardt2015@gmail.com i have so mutch to shair
Hi ,,i from Indonesian ,,i have one Made in germany ,this name Magdeburg ,that is very strong lathe machine ,,I am sorry ,I can't speak English 🙏
Nice video but you need to pump up the volume.
Hey there NeedItMakeIt, Greetings from David, are you still interested in this beauty, price is negotiable if you want it...….Let me know please, many extra parts come with it. Take Care, David
Hi David, it is a fantastic machine, but I think my next lathe will have to be a small one as I have no space left in my 1 car garage/workshop. I have metal-working and woodworking machinery all jam packed inside, so time to part with some of my tools too I think :(
@@NeedItMakeIt Hey, no problem...…...I know all about that, I'm all packed in too