Thank you for your honesty!!! I live in south east wisconsin and have the same conditions you deal with. I also don’t know 100% because of the same reasons I don’t have many if any deer wintering where I can hunt which is primarily public as well.
If you dont have a drill what would be a good alternative? Broadcast and run heavy cultipack over. Run disc to rough it up and then spread and pack? Thoughts?
Hi Jeff, I have my first screening of switchgrass frost-seeded into previous sod. I'm ready to apply a pre-emergent but am only finding simazine in the larger sizes (2.5 gal) than I'll be able to use. Is there a source for it in quart or gallon sizes?
Hi Jeff, Since switchgrass is a rhizomous bunchgrass, what has your experience been maintaining your edge between plots and diversity pockets over time? Does the switchgrass eventually take over and the pocket goes away? If so, have you had success with an effective control / treatment - OR - do you let the SG monoculture?
I only got one spray down of 41% glyp before I drilled in my cave in rock switchgrass. I have weed competition now. My switch is about 20" tall but some of the stalks are lighter colored and have fallen over? How should I approach the weed competition ?
Jeff, I have an old field that has nothing going for it except the broad leaf weeds, rag weed, milk weed, and golden rod. I want to add switchgrass and start making the diversity pockets. Should I frost seed and spray like you talked about in a couple of your videos or will frost seeding switchgrass not get the seed to the soil, should I work that up to break up the sod. I would like to start this spring we are entering now. If anyone lese has any comments, please respond as well.
I have big blue stem and want to plant cave in the rock, could I spray it with round up when it’s about 6 inches high and just spread the cave in the rock a short time later . Do you think that would work ?I would do a burn in March or April to get rid of all of the dead grass .
I’m still pumped about the switch we frost seeded in February using your method. Question - current soil temps in my zone (6a) are low 50s. I have read that switch germinates at 55ish. So far since the Simazine treatment, we have cool season growth of about 4 inches. But I’m concerned that if I wait until that growth is 8-12 inches before spraying Gly and 2,4-d, I will be spraying newly germinated Switch since I’m already close to mid-50 soil temps. Still safe to wait a bit longer to spray the Gly|2,4-d? Thoughts?
The seeds need to hit the soil...or they will not. Depending on the variety of honeysuckle, the honey suckle can have a much higher wildlife value than switchgrass.. .
I live in Louisiana summers are rough should I plant my switchgrass with fall planting since temps rarely stay at or below freezing? I'm afraid a spring planting will get burnt up on first year without good root system.
Don't know if you've already done a video on it, but can you do one about what to look for when it comes to natural food sources when scouting deer on small parcels without food plots?
Thanks for your videos! I am curious about the size of switch grass plots that may be used for fawning and later cover. My thoughts from your videos is to draw my doe factory closer to the middle of my property so bucks will follow on the perimeter where I do most of my hunting. Thanks in advance
Can one plant a switchgrass “fence” along a swamp per se to screen your property from the neighboring property? Thats right across the swamp. Swamp is not big whatsoever. I’d say about 80-yards in width. Or have any other suggestions on screening my property? Any help would be appreciated!
Hey Jeff, do you find a germination difference between frost seeding before simazine and using the genesis later after the RU application? I want to plant switch this spring (debating on ways to plant it and also how to get early successional pockets going) since the rocky soil between the timber and plots isn’t conducive to planting more food, so want to convert it into useable bedding depth this year. Thank you.
With spring green up earlier in Wisconsin this year. When do we spray the simazine ? Snow is just about off. But seems as if some green is starting already.
Jeff, why are you not wearing a respirator while spraying that glyphosate? Maybe it's not glyphosate but regardless you gotta keep yourself safe too brother. You will never regret investing in yourself!! Keep up the good work tho. Ps. If you get cancer, I'm gonna blame it on mansanto!!
Unless the seed washes away...should be great! I would check for seed later this month, make sure there is a good covering if seed in the 1/2" depth...
Great info but why Simazine and not Gly straight out of the gate? Does Simazine offer some residual effect?? You also have not talked about spraying, tilling/discing after the chemical has had some time to work, rolling to firm up the seed bed, spraying again to kill the second round of weeds, broadcasting the SG and then rolling to get seed-to-soil contact as another good option for those that maybe haven't prepared the prior fall for frost seeding and those that don't have access to a drill.
John, good questions! The article in the description goes into a lot of detail with your questions...you should check it out! But Simazine is a pre-emergent, that you use prior to Spring green-up. Gly is a post emergent, used after weeds are in the 8-12" range and growing aggressively during Spring green-up. I use both every time, and then sometimes use a 2nd spraying of just straight gly, during mid to late May, prior to switchgrass germination (germinates about 58 degree soil temp). I add the 2-4D to the first gly spraying to make sure that all broadleaf are eliminated. My two favorite methods to plant are with a no-till drill or frost seeding. The beauty of both methods is that neither requires any tilling, discing, plowing or soil work of any kind. I strongly recommend either method so that the seed can be put into the ground early, and then go thru the stratification process that switch needs to go through before it germinates. It either needs several frosts and freezes, heavy moisture or both. The method you mention works OK, but also by tilling and discing, you bring up more weed seeds. I have had clients use that method and have a total loss due to aggressive weed growth that is common in a lot of old ag fields and pastures. Not bad to try, but renting a no till drill from the local conservation district (or buying one) as well as frost seeding, are the most sure-fire methods that one can use. Basically fail proof.
Thanks for adding additional clarity Jeff. I'll check out the article as well. I was planning to add 2-4D as well as it seems to give some extra burn. The second round of Gly a few weeks after tilling is intended to get the new weed growth as a result of the soil churn. The last I checked, the local SWCD in my area didn't have a drill available for rent and I can't afford to purchase a drill. So, we'll continue with the current plan. I'll be sure to document my progress along the way. As far as the seed stratification process, I talked to the Horticulturalist at the company where I purchased the Cave In Rock seed and he suggested cold stratifying 50% of the seed for 6 weeks in the fridge, leaving the other half untouched. This is not a big deal as my purchase was relatively small at ~30# total.
John S that makes a lot of sense, great comments John! If you can kill the ground and take soil into the Winter in some manner, the frost seeding method can work great for you too. I do a lot of that too, and I have quite a few clients each year who do as well.
Here's a link to a good scientific study. There are real risks when using gly, especially with repeated exposure (not really transferring through food products though). Common sense precaution will go along way (ie. don't shower with it!). www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1383574218300887
Jeff, I notice you talk about and use Simazine pre-emergent A lot. Is there a reason that you don't use Atrazine instead. I've heard it being used when planting switch grass. just wondering. keep up ht great videos
Thank you and I sure will try...have 5 more completed and shooting roughly 5 more today. Simazine works like Atrazine, but you don't need a chemical applicators license to use it. So any of my readers or viewers or clients can legally buy it. Great product!
Kenton, I believe you mean Miscanthus Giganteus. It would make great cover, but takes some time to get established. I planted ~250 rhizomes by hand a couple of years ago ~1 hr NW of Eau Claire and got ~50% survival rate. There are a couple of 20 acre fields not far from me that are doing well so I know it's possible, but I decided it's not for me. Heading the switchgrass route.
Cody Lindahl I sure can Cory, the article that goes with this video has some tips for what to buy where and why...the link is in the he description. I buy mine from Northwoods Whitetails...which is also where I get my brassica and plot screen, as well as my Fall blend...although the Fall blend is too pricey to ship. But check out the article, it goes into a lot more detail about eveything
I would like to plant some Switchgrass in my woods. Wondering if you could help me pick the best grass for screen cover. This is what I was planning to do on my property. I have 72 acres and I would like to do a 16 acres clearcut in the center of the property. The cut would be between the current 35 year old logging roads that are on the property. The thought is to cut an hour glass shape. Once the Popple is cut, I would like to clear out the old roads and plant them in Switchgrass or other tall screen type. That way, I can use that as a screen to move around the property without being seen very often. Also, creating an egde, and vertical diversity in an otherwise popple monoculture. Thought the Switchgrass would grow decent for several years before getting shaded out once the clear cut starts to shade out the grass. Then, I would cut on one side of the other of the clear cut. Once again allowing light into the row of switchgrass? I could share a photo of the idea if that helps.
Jeff, Wondering how much I should spend on switch grass. I was quoted at my feed store $600 for 50lbs bag. It was a special order. A bit of sticker shock. Thanks Jamie
Question for you. My property was primarily hemlocks (60-75%). I had them cut out because unfortunately here in PA they are all dying from an infestation. Naturally this left everything very open. I'd like to thicken up parts and I thought switchgrass would be a good idea. Would this work? Would it choke out any natural growth? Fortunately most of the trees that are left are oak.
As long as you can get great seed to soil contact and use the recommended chemicals to control weed growth, it is certainly worth a try! Switch is very tolerant of poor soil, but post Hemlock may be tough. You also need to make sure that you get full sun. If there is a lot of bare soil exposed right now, it is a great time to frost seed!
That's going to be a little tough because the ground is covered with hemlock branches. There are some open spots and I have a couple of open spots i'm going to turn into kill plots. I just wanted to get some kind of ground cover until the natural growth starts coming up. It's just very barren at the moment. Thanks for the reply.
Sir Mixalot as long as the seed will hit the soil, you can frost seed before Spring. Even just 30-40% soil exposure is plenty...the branches won't matter as long as the seed can get thru to the soil...good luck!
Sir Mixalot I do...you should check out the article that goes with this video, there is a lot of info in it...basically a lot of the details! What I like though is planting 5-6#s for bedding areas and 8-10#s for screening plantings.
I had a question it’s about sheds. In your opinion and watching bucks shed over many years with cameras and everything. Do you think that the same buck sheds its antlers around (like within maybe 15ish) days... plus or minus.... every year. That maybe when the doe was bread so when that particular buck was born plays into when it sheds??? Or do you think it’s random every year?? Or weather?? Or whatever..... I’m just curious because i know you follow specific deer all year with cameras and i wondering if you have noticed specific deer drop close to the same time every year or if it’s 100% random. Thank you!!!!
Jonathan Gibbons that's an interesting question for sure. Stress plays a huge roll...nutritional, overall health, etc. That can be brought on by poor food, cold weather, extreme snows...the nastier the winter, the lower the available food and the sooner the winter begins, the sooner the antlers dropped. In the UP of Michigan deer on the inside of a giant enclosure would lose their antlers 2 months+ after the deer in the outside. Same weather, same temps, same snowfall, same genetics...but the deer on the inside were supplementally fed. The deer on the outside of that enclosure would typically begin losing their antlers before the end of the year. Now all of that being said, the deer are usually off of the lands that I hunt by Feb/March, so they shed somewhere else. I typically don't look for sheds because where they drop, are typically not within their preferred Fall habitat. I use post season trail cams and Summer scouting to find out what bucks made it. So, I didn't get a real hard look ever for which bucks dropped their antlers at which time of the year...
We much prefer miscanthus giganteus grass for dear, turkey, rabbits Etc... it provides more cover, Rose to 11 to 13 ft tall, lasts longer 20 to 30 years, out-competes all weeds in 1 to 2 years and far more beautiful than switchgrass.
A controlled burn is much healthier for ecology than round up... actually adds nutrition back to soil not strips it and leaves it toxic to the precious wildlife they are trying to help..
Jeff, I'm going to try your suggested method of frost seeding for ~2 acres of switchgrass. You mention in the video broadcasting late Jan - Feb. However, where my parcel is located in the northern third of WI this could mean several inches of snow on the ground during that time. Therefore, would you suggest frost seeding late fall-early winter or waiting until spring when the conditions are favorable to do so? I've been prepping the site for a few months now so I should have things ready going into the winter. My Simazine is also on the shelf in the waiting. :-)
Sounds great John, I can't tell you how many folks I know who that has worked for extremely well...clients, readers and viewers! Also, I should have mentioned more along the lines of frost seeding opportunity from 10/1 to 3/1. Definitely in the Fall...just need some cold weather to get the soil temps down in the low 50s or below.
So soil temps in the low 50's or less and we should let the seed fly? We're there now in my area of WI..........but is it too early at the risk of birds/turkeys eating it up? Would it be better to do it before a forecasted snow event??
@@johns8240 that would be ideal, but the seeds are very small and most field birds are leaving soon. I like Spring best, but timing right after snow melt is important.
Using 1-2 times for a lifetime of effective Switchgrass establishment is a much better trade-off and then repeated mowings, burnings and use of heavy equipment...discing and tilling. There is a balance to anything in life...have to use some common sense too.
Without them...I personally don't have the equipment large enough to grow and maintain the switchgrass. Even with that drill you have to use chemicals. And then, the planting can last 10 years or more without doing anything. The switch is the only usable cover for pheasants and rabbits now in that field. It is a balance. No chemicals...no small game in that field (literally for decades), too much soil work-tilling, discing, erosion and zero switchgrass. A necessary evil if your goal is effective food plot plantings or switchgrass plantings. I couldn't even bother planting in these situations without the chemicals...too much soil erosion and heavy continuous tilling needed with equipment I do not have. Your Yugo probably throws more chemicals into the environment per month than the chemicals I need to use to establish a field of switchgrass that will stand for 10 years.
Half life of round up is 30yrs.. Monsanto is at one with our govt.. if I was allowed to write my own study you can bet your GMC it would shine too... the real studies are done by in biased companies and scientists and they paint a bleak picture for that toxic spray...
Charlie Smith not if you listen to the Monsanto papers ... btw Monsanto has FDA, and our govt in their pockets.. thanks to George Bush(daddy bush) having to leave cushy CEO job at Monsanto to become the POTUS... the real unbiased studies by scientists biologists and other all peer reviewed papers tell the truth.. toxic for 30yrs..
Lord have mercy how much money do you estimate you have invested in each deer you harvest , so cost per year divided bye number of deer harvested per year ? Bye the looks of things I bet each year I could bye and have processed an entire beef and pork for what you're spending yearly on one deer . It must be nice to have that kinda money .
I'm a boat technician in Michigan and I can do it, plus I have a family. We don't buy beef or pork... We make time, set aside any extra money for tractor fuel, used equipment, seed, fertilizer,cameras/ battery's, stands/blinds, ammo/arrows, good clothing for cold/ mild temp's, propane heaters, hunting license's, time off work, hours spent with nothing to show, we harvest 3 deer a year then have our family's deer personally processed mostly 40-55 lbs of meat from each deer. All of this to me and my family is apart of the process that has been passed down called "self accomplishment". No one can just hand it over or buy that at the store. What fun would that be. Just remember it's never called work, if you love what you do. I guess some would say, that deer must have cost you $100.00 a pound, well than if it's about money and how much you have than hell my family is eating the most expensive cut of meat in North America, and we did it on our own. That feels pretty good to me because we did it together and on a budget, a very tight budget.
This is the video I was looking for!! Thanks!! 👍👍
That's awesome Dan...glad you found it! Lots to choose from 😊 I try to cover all the angles...
Thank you for your honesty!!! I live in south east wisconsin and have the same conditions you deal with. I also don’t know 100% because of the same reasons I don’t have many if any deer wintering where I can hunt which is primarily public as well.
You should read haz mat sheet on those chemicals you spray. You might find some protection is in order.
You mean SDS? formally known as MSDS?
agree
Round up... cancer in a bottle
If you dont have a drill what would be a good alternative? Broadcast and run heavy cultipack over. Run disc to rough it up and then spread and pack? Thoughts?
I'm enjoying your videos and learning alot. Trying to see how to apply these tips in north Texas near the pan handle
joe nutt that's great to hear Joe! I know we are a long ways apart, but I know at least the concepts will hold true for whitetails.
Hi Jeff, I have my first screening of switchgrass frost-seeded into previous sod. I'm ready to apply a pre-emergent but am only finding simazine in the larger sizes (2.5 gal) than I'll be able to use. Is there a source for it in quart or gallon sizes?
Hi Jeff, Since switchgrass is a rhizomous bunchgrass, what has your experience been maintaining your edge between plots and diversity pockets over time? Does the switchgrass eventually take over and the pocket goes away? If so, have you had success with an effective control / treatment - OR - do you let the SG monoculture?
I live in NE Ohio and soil temps have been above 55 but it cooled down now. My switch grass has not germinated yet. Is it ok to spray now on April 15.
Yes it is Peter...long time before switchgrass germinates. I am spraying mine next week...
This stuff is expensive.
Do you have a vendor you can recommend?
I only got one spray down of 41% glyp before I drilled in my cave in rock switchgrass. I have weed competition now. My switch is about 20" tall but some of the stalks are lighter colored and have fallen over? How should I approach the weed competition ?
Jeff, I have an old field that has nothing going for it except the broad leaf weeds, rag weed, milk weed, and golden rod. I want to add switchgrass and start making the diversity pockets. Should I frost seed and spray like you talked about in a couple of your videos or will frost seeding switchgrass not get the seed to the soil, should I work that up to break up the sod. I would like to start this spring we are entering now. If anyone lese has any comments, please respond as well.
I have big blue stem and want to plant cave in the rock, could I spray it with round up when it’s about 6 inches high and just spread the cave in the rock a short time later . Do you think that would work ?I would do a burn in March or April to get rid of all of the dead grass .
I’m still pumped about the switch we frost seeded in February using your method. Question - current soil temps in my zone (6a) are low 50s. I have read that switch germinates at 55ish. So far since the Simazine treatment, we have cool season growth of about 4 inches. But I’m concerned that if I wait until that growth is 8-12 inches before spraying Gly and 2,4-d, I will be spraying newly germinated Switch since I’m already close to mid-50 soil temps.
Still safe to wait a bit longer to spray the Gly|2,4-d? Thoughts?
I just ran a forest mulcher with heavy Honeysuckel if I frost seed on top the chips will the grass grow .
The seeds need to hit the soil...or they will not. Depending on the variety of honeysuckle, the honey suckle can have a much higher wildlife value than switchgrass.. .
Whitetail Habitat Solutions thank you very much and love the videos watch them daily
I live in Louisiana summers are rough should I plant my switchgrass with fall planting since temps rarely stay at or below freezing? I'm afraid a spring planting will get burnt up on first year without good root system.
Don't know if you've already done a video on it, but can you do one about what to look for when it comes to natural food sources when scouting deer on small parcels without food plots?
Thanks for your videos!
I am curious about the size of switch grass plots that may be used for fawning and later cover.
My thoughts from your videos is to draw my doe factory closer to the middle of my property so bucks will follow on the perimeter where I do most of my hunting.
Thanks in advance
Can one plant a switchgrass “fence” along a swamp per se to screen your property from the neighboring property? Thats right across the swamp. Swamp is not big whatsoever. I’d say about 80-yards in width. Or have any other suggestions on screening my property? Any help would be appreciated!
Hey Jeff, do you find a germination difference between frost seeding before simazine and using the genesis later after the RU application?
I want to plant switch this spring (debating on ways to plant it and also how to get early successional pockets going) since the rocky soil between the timber and plots isn’t conducive to planting more food, so want to convert it into useable bedding depth this year. Thank you.
With spring green up earlier in Wisconsin this year. When do we spray the simazine ? Snow is just about off. But seems as if some green is starting already.
Jeff, why are you not wearing a respirator while spraying that glyphosate? Maybe it's not glyphosate but regardless you gotta keep yourself safe too brother. You will never regret investing in yourself!!
Keep up the good work tho.
Ps. If you get cancer, I'm gonna blame it on mansanto!!
Any suggestion on where to buy switchgrass seed from?
Sure thing Todd....from John Komp at www.northwoodswhitetails.com
When using a no till drill what is the row spacing it is setup on?
Typically 6-8", but I never use one personally 🙂
Frost seeded last Sunday, hasn’t stopped raining since (warm temps as well). I’m afraid I’ll have to reseed later this month. Thoughts?
Unless the seed washes away...should be great! I would check for seed later this month, make sure there is a good covering if seed in the 1/2" depth...
It rained pretty hard and a large quantity (I don’t know how it couldn’t of not been washed away) . I’ll do an inspection tomorrow.
@@recon33alpha usually it all ends up somewhere....often scattered pockets that can work very well too. Hope for the best!
Great info but why Simazine and not Gly straight out of the gate? Does Simazine offer some residual effect??
You also have not talked about spraying, tilling/discing after the chemical has had some time to work, rolling to firm up the seed bed, spraying again to kill the second round of weeds, broadcasting the SG and then rolling to get seed-to-soil contact as another good option for those that maybe haven't prepared the prior fall for frost seeding and those that don't have access to a drill.
John, good questions! The article in the description goes into a lot of detail with your questions...you should check it out! But Simazine is a pre-emergent, that you use prior to Spring green-up. Gly is a post emergent, used after weeds are in the 8-12" range and growing aggressively during Spring green-up. I use both every time, and then sometimes use a 2nd spraying of just straight gly, during mid to late May, prior to switchgrass germination (germinates about 58 degree soil temp). I add the 2-4D to the first gly spraying to make sure that all broadleaf are eliminated.
My two favorite methods to plant are with a no-till drill or frost seeding. The beauty of both methods is that neither requires any tilling, discing, plowing or soil work of any kind. I strongly recommend either method so that the seed can be put into the ground early, and then go thru the stratification process that switch needs to go through before it germinates. It either needs several frosts and freezes, heavy moisture or both.
The method you mention works OK, but also by tilling and discing, you bring up more weed seeds. I have had clients use that method and have a total loss due to aggressive weed growth that is common in a lot of old ag fields and pastures. Not bad to try, but renting a no till drill from the local conservation district (or buying one) as well as frost seeding, are the most sure-fire methods that one can use. Basically fail proof.
Thanks for adding additional clarity Jeff. I'll check out the article as well.
I was planning to add 2-4D as well as it seems to give some extra burn.
The second round of Gly a few weeks after tilling is intended to get the new weed growth as a result of the soil churn.
The last I checked, the local SWCD in my area didn't have a drill available for rent and I can't afford to purchase a drill. So, we'll continue with the current plan. I'll be sure to document my progress along the way.
As far as the seed stratification process, I talked to the Horticulturalist at the company where I purchased the Cave In Rock seed and he suggested cold stratifying 50% of the seed for 6 weeks in the fridge, leaving the other half untouched. This is not a big deal as my purchase was relatively small at ~30# total.
John S that makes a lot of sense, great comments John! If you can kill the ground and take soil into the Winter in some manner, the frost seeding method can work great for you too. I do a lot of that too, and I have quite a few clients each year who do as well.
Any concern over the chemicals you use for weeds being transferred to the meat you plan to harvest?
None absolutely at all...in any way, whatsoever. Ever. 100% no.
Here's a link to a good scientific study. There are real risks when using gly, especially with repeated exposure (not really transferring through food products though). Common sense precaution will go along way (ie. don't shower with it!). www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1383574218300887
Will Krause toxic to environment and wildlife... I will never allow round up on my property..
Jeff, I notice you talk about and use Simazine pre-emergent A lot. Is there a reason that you don't use Atrazine instead. I've heard it being used when planting switch grass. just wondering. keep up ht great videos
Thank you and I sure will try...have 5 more completed and shooting roughly 5 more today.
Simazine works like Atrazine, but you don't need a chemical applicators license to use it. So any of my readers or viewers or clients can legally buy it. Great product!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Perfect, that's what I figured the reason was. Thanks again
@@davidtpierce cool, and you are very welcome!
If you have bluestem or similar on CRP, will they (Soil & Water) let you convert it to switchgrass?
snapcrack55 you’d have to check the specifications on what varieties you can grow but switchgrass is typically one of the accepted varieties.
What are your views on mincantus gigantus. Couldnt u use that as deer cover? I am in richland co
Kenton,
I believe you mean Miscanthus Giganteus. It would make great cover, but takes some time to get established. I planted ~250 rhizomes by hand a couple of years ago ~1 hr NW of Eau Claire and got ~50% survival rate. There are a couple of 20 acre fields not far from me that are doing well so I know it's possible, but I decided it's not for me. Heading the switchgrass route.
Can you offer some insight on where to buy switchgrass to plant? and are there multiple varieties and if so which is best?
Cody Lindahl I sure can Cory, the article that goes with this video has some tips for what to buy where and why...the link is in the he description. I buy mine from Northwoods Whitetails...which is also where I get my brassica and plot screen, as well as my Fall blend...although the Fall blend is too pricey to ship. But check out the article, it goes into a lot more detail about eveything
Cody Lindahl Ernst seed good price
I would like to plant some Switchgrass in my woods. Wondering if you could help me pick the best grass for screen cover. This is what I was planning to do on my property. I have 72 acres and I would like to do a 16 acres clearcut in the center of the property. The cut would be between the current 35 year old logging roads that are on the property. The thought is to cut an hour glass shape. Once the Popple is cut, I would like to clear out the old roads and plant them in Switchgrass or other tall screen type. That way, I can use that as a screen to move around the property without being seen very often. Also, creating an egde, and vertical diversity in an otherwise popple monoculture. Thought the Switchgrass would grow decent for several years before getting shaded out once the clear cut starts to shade out the grass. Then, I would cut on one side of the other of the clear cut. Once again allowing light into the row of switchgrass? I could share a photo of the idea if that helps.
Jeff, Wondering how much I should spend on switch grass. I was quoted at my feed store $600 for 50lbs bag. It was a special order. A bit of sticker shock.
Thanks Jamie
I pay $7.50/ lb in PA
On my residential lawn I use prodiamine and diotypior for weeds. Check out lawn care nut web.
Question for you. My property was primarily hemlocks (60-75%). I had them cut out because unfortunately here in PA they are all dying from an infestation. Naturally this left everything very open. I'd like to thicken up parts and I thought switchgrass would be a good idea. Would this work? Would it choke out any natural growth? Fortunately most of the trees that are left are oak.
As long as you can get great seed to soil contact and use the recommended chemicals to control weed growth, it is certainly worth a try! Switch is very tolerant of poor soil, but post Hemlock may be tough. You also need to make sure that you get full sun. If there is a lot of bare soil exposed right now, it is a great time to frost seed!
That's going to be a little tough because the ground is covered with hemlock branches. There are some open spots and I have a couple of open spots i'm going to turn into kill plots. I just wanted to get some kind of ground cover until the natural growth starts coming up. It's just very barren at the moment. Thanks for the reply.
Sir Mixalot as long as the seed will hit the soil, you can frost seed before Spring. Even just 30-40% soil exposure is plenty...the branches won't matter as long as the seed can get thru to the soil...good luck!
Ok thanks again. Do you have a preferred seed rate or do you just broadcast for frost seed?
Sir Mixalot I do...you should check out the article that goes with this video, there is a lot of info in it...basically a lot of the details!
What I like though is planting 5-6#s for bedding areas and 8-10#s for screening plantings.
I had a question it’s about sheds.
In your opinion and watching bucks shed over many years with cameras and everything.
Do you think that the same buck sheds its antlers around (like within maybe 15ish) days... plus or minus.... every year. That maybe when the doe was bread so when that particular buck was born plays into when it sheds??? Or do you think it’s random every year?? Or weather?? Or whatever..... I’m just curious because i know you follow specific deer all year with cameras and i wondering if you have noticed specific deer drop close to the same time every year or if it’s 100% random.
Thank you!!!!
Jonathan Gibbons that's an interesting question for sure. Stress plays a huge roll...nutritional, overall health, etc. That can be brought on by poor food, cold weather, extreme snows...the nastier the winter, the lower the available food and the sooner the winter begins, the sooner the antlers dropped. In the UP of Michigan deer on the inside of a giant enclosure would lose their antlers 2 months+ after the deer in the outside. Same weather, same temps, same snowfall, same genetics...but the deer on the inside were supplementally fed. The deer on the outside of that enclosure would typically begin losing their antlers before the end of the year.
Now all of that being said, the deer are usually off of the lands that I hunt by Feb/March, so they shed somewhere else. I typically don't look for sheds because where they drop, are typically not within their preferred Fall habitat. I use post season trail cams and Summer scouting to find out what bucks made it. So, I didn't get a real hard look ever for which bucks dropped their antlers at which time of the year...
We much prefer miscanthus giganteus grass for dear, turkey, rabbits Etc... it provides more cover, Rose to 11 to 13 ft tall, lasts longer 20 to 30 years, out-competes all weeds in 1 to 2 years and far more beautiful than switchgrass.
How often will you have to perform a controlled burn?
A controlled burn is much healthier for ecology than round up... actually adds nutrition back to soil not strips it and leaves it toxic to the precious wildlife they are trying to help..
Jeff,
I'm going to try your suggested method of frost seeding for ~2 acres of switchgrass. You mention in the video broadcasting late Jan - Feb. However, where my parcel is located in the northern third of WI this could mean several inches of snow on the ground during that time. Therefore, would you suggest frost seeding late fall-early winter or waiting until spring when the conditions are favorable to do so? I've been prepping the site for a few months now so I should have things ready going into the winter. My Simazine is also on the shelf in the waiting. :-)
Sounds great John, I can't tell you how many folks I know who that has worked for extremely well...clients, readers and viewers! Also, I should have mentioned more along the lines of frost seeding opportunity from 10/1 to 3/1. Definitely in the Fall...just need some cold weather to get the soil temps down in the low 50s or below.
So soil temps in the low 50's or less and we should let the seed fly? We're there now in my area of WI..........but is it too early at the risk of birds/turkeys eating it up? Would it be better to do it before a forecasted snow event??
@@johns8240 that would be ideal, but the seeds are very small and most field birds are leaving soon. I like Spring best, but timing right after snow melt is important.
Tyvek suit goggles and filter mask 20$. do my own pest control.com
If YOU need to wear all that protective gear to not get cancer what is happening to all the wildlife.... don't use it
good other than the glypho. bad stuff
Agree.. easy to discriminate real studies from the Monsanto fake studies... FDA humph...
Ever read up on Simazine's toxicity? No thank you.
Using 1-2 times for a lifetime of effective Switchgrass establishment is a much better trade-off and then repeated mowings, burnings and use of heavy equipment...discing and tilling. There is a balance to anything in life...have to use some common sense too.
Cant figure out where this cancer comes from 🤷♂️
Yup.. glysophate round up cancer and many other problems.. so sad it is so widely used..
Blowing chemicals into the environment....nice.....
Without them...I personally don't have the equipment large enough to grow and maintain the switchgrass. Even with that drill you have to use chemicals. And then, the planting can last 10 years or more without doing anything. The switch is the only usable cover for pheasants and rabbits now in that field. It is a balance. No chemicals...no small game in that field (literally for decades), too much soil work-tilling, discing, erosion and zero switchgrass. A necessary evil if your goal is effective food plot plantings or switchgrass plantings. I couldn't even bother planting in these situations without the chemicals...too much soil erosion and heavy continuous tilling needed with equipment I do not have.
Your Yugo probably throws more chemicals into the environment per month than the chemicals I need to use to establish a field of switchgrass that will stand for 10 years.
Half life of round up is 30yrs.. Monsanto is at one with our govt.. if I was allowed to write my own study you can bet your GMC it would shine too... the real studies are done by in biased companies and scientists and they paint a bleak picture for that toxic spray...
Round up is killing your soil
Not really...that's just a lot of nonesense 😉
Charlie Smith not if you listen to the Monsanto papers ... btw Monsanto has FDA, and our govt in their pockets.. thanks to George Bush(daddy bush) having to leave cushy CEO job at Monsanto to become the POTUS... the real unbiased studies by scientists biologists and other all peer reviewed papers tell the truth.. toxic for 30yrs..
Lord have mercy how much money do you estimate you have invested in each deer you harvest , so cost per year divided bye number of deer harvested per year ?
Bye the looks of things I bet each year I could bye and have processed an entire beef and pork for what you're spending yearly on one deer .
It must be nice to have that kinda money .
I'm a boat technician in Michigan and I can do it, plus I have a family. We don't buy beef or pork... We make time, set aside any extra money for tractor fuel, used equipment, seed, fertilizer,cameras/ battery's, stands/blinds, ammo/arrows, good clothing for cold/ mild temp's, propane heaters, hunting license's, time off work, hours spent with nothing to show, we harvest 3 deer a year then have our family's deer personally processed mostly 40-55 lbs of meat from each deer. All of this to me and my family is apart of the process that has been passed down called "self accomplishment".
No one can just hand it over or buy that at the store. What fun would that be. Just remember it's never called work, if you love what you do.
I guess some would say, that deer must have cost you $100.00 a pound, well than if it's about money and how much you have than hell my family is eating the most expensive cut of meat in North America, and we did it on our own. That feels pretty good to me because we did it together and on a budget, a very tight budget.
Mr buzz kill try not to think to much just enjoy hunting.