This is awesome thanks! So many people out there who think everything has to be perfect and done by the book like your not just stopping the rain from getting in.
i did ine by myself, took me 3 years, i have bad eyes (i see two screw heads ) and afraid of hieghts. but im poor , so had no choices. i used 5/4 deck boards two feet on center, and used 1inch foil foam between for extra insulation, noise dampening. but i know im no expert, just making due
Cool we have had basic handy folks do a whole area of town for elder & handicap folks & saved big bucks & no one's complaining! Very ~ Functional & looks Way Better! Thank you 4 suggestions & ideas ~with deals & such ~neighbors helping neighbors~or we couldn't have done it all
I am going to be in the market soon to buy a home and I have always said I will make sure the roof has just been done because I dont want to pay for or deal with that crap. You just showed me that whipping up a roof is no big deal. Now I am going to look to find a house I bargain the full cost of a professionally done roof and then do this so save some cash. I have always liked the look of tin and this looks great. Well done thank you for this
This is what I needed. I'm about to put some corrugated metal on my roof and this video is super concise. Thanks! You're making it look easy! Well... easier.
Nice job. Doesn't look bad. The only concern I would have is leaving 3 layers of shingles on if I heard you correctly that is a lot of weight to leave on your roof especially if you have 2×4 for your roof.
that's a violation of building code 2 roofs max and if you have the architectural you cannot shingle over it metal probably ok with long fasteners he mentioned triple roof plus the strips tat roof is holding a hell of a load if its in snow area there's no margin . roof collapse will destroy the home and insurance might not pay. see there's areas where there's no codes but it don't mean skip proper building practices
Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive watch anything like this before. So nice to seek out any person with some authentic ideas on this subject. realy thanks for beginning this up. this video is one thing thats needed on the net, somebody with a bit of originality. useful job for bringing something new to the youtube!
The reasons the member below said your boards will rott out is from condensation,the industry standard is to lay a vapor barrier down 1st,then your boards ,in between your nail boards you need to insulate because the dead air space under the metal panels will experience thermal shock and sweat,I've fixed hundreds of leaks from non insulated expansion joints and non insulated metal overlays ,I'm also a journeyman roofer/ waterproofef . FYI the use of treated lumber is no longer required,the industry mandated all treated wood in the 80's and after 3 decades found the treated wood will dry & pop lose it's fasteners and even pull out bricks with tapcons,you used the right wood but skipping the vapor barrier ( cheap 4 mil plastic ) and insulating may cost you a huge condensation problem . If that happens don't freak out,just remove the ridge cap & fold the gutter edge of the panels up and allow fresh air to flow,install a raised cap with a 1inch gap to allow air flow and condensate should stop .
I think it doesn't matter.. One clever man said: I am not so rich to buy cheap shoes.. I also think that if you are doing something - try to consult with someone how to do it right, but in this case it looks that he don't care about what he is doing and how it will be looking after...
joshua2585 you can install a standing seam panel roof directly over perlins but in a residential setting it's not a great idea due to thermal shock , an ice cold or baking hot metal roof will condensate badly ,if your in a cold area heat loss in the attic will hit ice cold panels and make them condensate and drip into the attic . In a hot area where air conditioning is used for hot months cold air loss through the attic will allow cool air to hit a scorching hot metal roof & cause condensation ,which drips into the home . It's an industry standard in commercial roofing to insulate the substrate before installing panels,or to instal a waterproof skrim such as ice & water shield under the panel system so condensate can run out from under the panels ,a cheap alternative is to install ice shield on the perimeter & lose lay a heavy visquen plastic sheet under the panels to shed any condensation out of the system and into the gutter .
over a existing shingle roof no vapor barrier is required and with the air flow between the metal and shingles it will keep the tin from sweating very much
Rusty Shackelford in climate zones like Michigan or Ohio that experience constant thermal shock of roofing materials a waterproof skrim under metal roofing panels is a must ,a vapor barrier is an entirely different material .
Looks fine.... I used to be a roofer years ago.... No need for silicone in fact it is more likely to cause a problem by making a dam that holds water at the seam.... We would use mastic at the edge that is underneath just thin coat that stops capillary action.... Otherwise bend up both ends and run a ridge over the joint edge.... But you have nothing to worry about you have a roof under your roof... But you should have made gaps in your wood underneath so that air can flow from bottom to top evaporating moisture that in your install will begin rotting your fiberglass and tar paper roofing... As well as the underlayment skins.... Also having those gaps for ventilation would allow your roof to carry away heat in summer.... It's not a big deal I'm sure it will be fine if looks like you do have some horizontal ventilation.... You could have run black pipe under your roof in the gap to pump fluid thru to heat your home on the cheap in winter as well....
Saw your thumbnail and had to drop in and say my Mom’s neighbor had a metal roof installed after Hurricane Gustav but had it laid directly on the plywood decking. Along comes nasty Hurricane Ida and he had no damage. Some roofs with metal that were installed with stripping were ripped off. Air got under there and pulled the panels off.
Keeping the old shingles will cause massive heat storage in the summer. This will impact you A/C bills if you have more warm days than cold days (such as in Florida). Hot roofing shingles will keep the attic hot all day and well into the night. The metal roof by itself will dissipate this heat into the air as the air cools, the mass of the shingles will not. The shingles will readily absorb this heat from the metal panels and hold it well into the night. But, if you live in a climate with more cold days than warm days, then this would be a good thing.
did he say, "triple roofed" i think thats asking 4 trouble on down the road. but do what u must NOW. this is a must do project, i assume and money tight well done young man.
That's an extremely large amount of weight doesn't matter how tight you are take a loan suck a tradesmen dick do what you have to in order to get your roof done properly it's the only thing keeping Everything from getting wet and destroyed mot to mention it could collapse on you. Your roof is one of the most important things behind a foundation it's a huge selling point if you have a new roof done properly when you sell.
@@irshaadwalee8094 tear off old shingle, underlayment, measure it right, slat it, install the right panels correctly , spent the extra ridge cap and for the trim, with 1 1/4 screws or 1 1/2. Might aswell spend the a few hundred extra and get it done right instead of doing it half way and regretting it 5 year later
Lol.. have done several different metal roofs .. get the deals where you can.. good job my man! Like the comment on being perceptive, so true … once you do it, you’ll notice others even more…
It might last 5 years but I doubt it speaking from 45 years in the construction trades. That ridge cap is what is going to cause problems first. If it doesn't blow to hard when it rains it might work.....Good Luck
More than one way to skin a cat. I glued some kitchen cabinets to drywall and everyone said it would come down and won't support the weight its been there since 2006 i moved from that apartment and the new tenants are using it
I would have silicone under the panel to form a gasket seal instead of at the joints externally. The elements are going to loosen up the silicone and leak.Concerned about the valley with the exposed ribs. Ice dams snow melting into the ribs could be an issue over time. Saw the comments on a vapor barrier and took note of that.Thanks for the video Danny.
Great video. Not everyone has the money for a "professional" job. Some just need it to be functional. Making it "Pretty" is very expensive while functional, serving the purpose, can be accomplished on a budget. Your right that they rob you on the trim. There are ways around that which still serves the purpose you just need a creative mind. Luckily I'm not the type who is obsessed with it being "pretty". As long as it does the job I'm good.
I need a new roof and have little money. also disabled 62 yr. old woman. Where can I buy scratch and dent and how much should I expect to pay to have it installed. raccoons on the roof have been scratching to get in the house. just spent $200 for a patch job. any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. ty.
I just used a marker and a level and pre-drilled the holes which worked really well n made it much easier n faster to get the panels held up being the only one on the roof attaching them
Good job. Maybe could have cut that ridge piece and lapped over the short ones on up to the ridge. Then used the ridge cap pieces. Still a good job bro for a 1 man show with no experience. Great idea with the discount materials. I have a big house in the county I am going to start buying like that for.
Well Done, the firing strips are interesting, due to the half inch of air insulation. By now you have enjoyed the winters with the snow just sliding off....
You're a brave soul. I never would have posted a video of me doing a job like that. I do metal roofs. Your saving grace on that is the 3 layers of asphalt shingles under it.
If you do yours like this man is teaching you to do you will severely screw it up the three-quarter inch boards won't have enough meat to hold screws and they will back out the condensation that occurs in the space left out of 3/4 inch boards will condensate and will Rust the metal
Caulking is the wrong product for that.the manufacturers specify sealing tape.it’s a special mastic similar to what they use for automobile windshields.Stays flexible in all climates and conditions
Gerard, Im fixing to do metal roofing in a mobile home fixer upper,. Is a single mobile home,. How much do you think I would be spending on material only?. My brother in law is willing to do the work for me if I buy all the material.. do you have any idea???
@@mayte8018 what is the length and width of the mobile home. Basic dimensions will help give you a rough estimate. Then are you looking at doing trusses or rafters and what is currently sticking thru the roof like vent stacks or chimney's
what about putting 1/4 inch rubber strips on the wood so when you screw in the screw you have a rubber gasket on the top of the screw and under the sheet metal to keep it from leaking it the rubber gasket on the screw fails. the rubber strip under gives it added protection and sealing power????
Really nice roofing job Bro! We had a 29g roof installed recently and it’s a mess. If I knew then what I knew now I would have probably installed it myself. FYI, I would highly recommend anyone looking for a metal roof to atleast step up to 26g steel. Also, keep close eyes on your contractor throughout this particular project. Ensure they do not over tighten the screws and damage the paneling. Check the valley seams, they should overlap 6” minimum. As for the vent/chimney flashing make darn sure they’re placing the upgradient end under the metal sheeting to help prevent water from infiltrating beneath the flashing. In short, manyyy experienced roofers and suppliers have told us they do not recommend metal roofing. It’s HIGH maintenance due to the material quality, expanding of materials, likelihood of wind blowing rain backup and under seams. If a Roofer won’t send you a professionally written estimate with their letterhead, followed by a written warranty, many references for roofs they’ve installed several years prior than do not waste your money on them. We now have to remove our brand new roofing due to liars that believe they can roof but truly don’t have the skill level to cut the material properly, lay out the panels, know the best way to seal seams, etc. Pay 1/3rd cost and get the lifetime warranty shingles that also covers 25yrs of labor and be done.
the reason i'm here ... guy just came out to give my mom a estimate for a metal roof, unfortunately i couldn't be there due to my work schedule but when i got there my mom was all excited saying "the guy is amish and he gave me a good price for the metal roof $17k and said look at the estimate and see what you think .. i looked at it and immediately see it's 29 guage metal and it's of course exposed fastener .. he did not explain anything to my mom about guage thickness, difference of exposed fastener/standing seam etc. I called the guy and told him i was concerned about the 29g metal on her log home that frequently experiences high wind .. his response "29g is all we use and i have not had a roof blow off yet" also the only warranty i seen on estimate was 5-year labor. I told my mom i feel she'd be better off with a good quality shingle roof replacement. Please share your thoughts .... i also worry about the exposed fasteners as i have read online how the washers can fail after 7-10 years and water can leak through those screw holes ..
This is a good video, my only concern is the seam on the ridge, with the time the caulk will break and go in between because the standing seam won't let the water out, but is good bro
You did that yourself with no help ? Then your my type of guy because that's what I do also. All your boards are straight, looks good. Great Video thanks.
We are the men who make this world go around. Today's intellectual need a entire team to swap out a light bulb, theyl look up the history of lightbulbs, look at the most efficient light bulb made with eco friendly materials then write a thesis on changing light bulbs. And yes you don't need any one for anything if your mechanically inclined you have the common sense and can pick up anything. We could prolly be doctors if we had corpses to work on but they'd out us in padded rooms if we did that.
awesome man. Im liking your cap. never seen it done like that. My grandfather owns 100 plus rental properties. .my brother and i been metal roofin them. Finishing a big two story place today. 30° outside. Take care.
I did this too but I allowed a 1 foot overhang... probably not up to code and might maybe possibly may be a problem in a wind storm.. but I’ll take my chances and it keeps water far from the house.... and I’m not catching the water.... I used to need to catch the water liv8ng off grid but here in Florida we have wells, all the free water I need.
Danny, has the roof remained leak free? (I'm assuming you have had to do regular maintenance, at least after 5 years). Very well done, btw. Adapting to your needs by fabricating the parts you need is impressive.
Good video, if you don't want to purchase the metal cutting tool a simpler trick is to remove the blade from a handheld skill saw, turn it backwards, replace and tighten. It will cut clean in similar fashion
I had the same question. Were the vent stacks cut slightly below the height of the one by fours, so the venting could still happen within the space above the existing roof within the one by four height across the roof? I guess this would be OK if the venting can still happen enough outside of the trailer. I would like to hear thoughts from the author to see if there have been any venting issues and what exactly was done with the vents.
Never cut sheet metal with a saw. The heat will destroy the protective coating and it will rust to shit. Theirs a reason tradesmen don't cut it that way.
How's it holding up, I been working on mine, taking a while since it's only me and I work full time. my old roof is pretty much shot. so it's a nice upgrade. .
looks great, we need to do our cottage roof, just a small cabin of a building with a screen porch that needs covering. Looking for easiest and cheapest way. Great video, thank you.
It would be even cheaper to use trash bags and scotch tape. Getcha some! Everyone seems to be mesmerized by how cheap he did it, and completely over look the fact that just about everything was done WRONG, guarantying failure of the roof.
If you are putting metal roofing on a slightly sloped new building roof with a tar paper cover over the OSB do you need to put the 1 x 4 down, or is that only to fir off of shingles??
your silicone is gonna cook in the sun. , but you got a great deal on the materials. as long a you keep a yearly eye on the silicone and replace it as needed you saved a big bundle
"Tar" (which isn't really tar these days) degrades in ultra-violet light just like everything else does. This installation is a mess. We won't allow any installation that relies on sealants of any kind as a first defense against leaks. Gravity flashings, properly fabricated, are the *only* reliable solution long-term. Just glopping something out of a caulking gun onto a roof is a joke.
Keep in mind you get what you pay for, if you have a lake cottage or home you want to resale you do not want somthing that will to help with resale inthe long run do it right the first time, the material and workmanship matter
I've laid thousands of square of metal roofing. Never seen someone put it down with battons. Micheal Ledford is right the wood will rot and a lot faster than you think depending on the weather where you're at.TOTAL AMATEUR SorryDanny
I keep hearing about using firring strips if metal roof installed over shingles (for shed.) I'm assuming firring strips are same as battons. Had a barn for decades and firring strips under metal roof did not rot. But please elaborate bc planning to use ffitring strips over shingles on a shed in a few months. Thanks! (PS barn was in rainy East Coast,.DelMarVa area.)
I did the same on my roof expect its double layered shingled. House started to shift. And cracks in walls. Think its a little to heavy but I just fill the cracks in sheet rock and repaint wall lol.
It's not the weight, leaving the singles on and not removing them is a national code violation. The singles are a combustible material. People have had their house burn down. It's the same thing when using lacquer, acetone in the trash because it can Ignite
Looks good I'm doing mine soon my only comment is instead of laying wood under the tin I would have just put fan fold down and screwed the tin to the shingles, that's how we always done it when I worked roofing I've put on many and never herd of any leaks being a problem, anyways man best to ya hope all is well
It may b cheaper but you not only have the weight of the original shingles on your roof but you're adding even more weight by putting metal panels on as your new roof.
a bud of mine bought a house in need of a new roof, it had a simple low pitch A-shape roof and he got them to take $15,000 off the house price here in Washington. Me and him worked on his roof for 4 weekends and put the metal roofing just like this over the older shingle roof which thankfully wasn't leaking anywhere. He spent only $580 for materials as he got 3 different color metal roofing from a local roofing comoany that had leftovers from numerous jobs and we improvised. He also used scrap throwaway frame boards to install for the frame which didn't cost a thing either. All he had to buy was the screws, caulk, and metal trim and joint metal pieces and that was all! He got 2 estimates from roofing companies up here who quoted $22,000 and $19,500.
No beutel tape in your valleys or closer tape glad it is over shingles. And yes the condensate will tear up the sleepers but they will dry how many cycles before a issue hard to say but for the price and the time should be worth it.
If you step where the screws are the strapping is under that so you’re going to be fine. If you wear running shoes they are softer and lots of grip on a high pitch roof.
I'm not a roofer or carpenter, but why do you need to add the 1x4 cross boards. Could you just use longer screws and screw the metal shingles over the existing shingles?
Might sound silly, but flex seal is what I would probably use. I have sealed up exterior gaps a half inch or so wide that held for ten years. The stuff is crazy lol
Im on almost the same kind of a project. Similar roof layout. Been putting on the furring strips , mine are 27 centers. Its fairly hard finding the rafter centers to make sure the 1x4's are down really tight. Im using 3 1/4" nail by air nailer. Im concerned that Im getting the 1x4's close enough to the edge so i can put on the drip edge, because i didnt cut off the overhanging shingles with a sawzall. Is that drip edge essential? also im using double bubble roll under the metal panels. and im using brilliant white metal to reduce heat in the home. THis is the main goal. since this double wide has zero loft insulation. it causes the a/c to run 24/7..
We got a few places I buy from in northeast Florida non painted galvalum is 1.27 lF new and cut to size and painted Is 1.40 LF new 29 gage and .15 more for 26 gauge
must be nice. I pay a 1.80 for galvalum and 1.95 for painted and that is with a discount the average person is paying 2.25 for painted and 2.10 for galvalum
Another feature is to lay on a anti sweat membrane under metal roofing. It's a bubble wrap sold 4 ft width. We got it & well worth it, especially in humid climates.
The metal roofing panel manufacturers don't want steel roofing directly on sheathing (or anything else) because of condensation issues. The steel needs to dry on the back side. This is POLE BARN roofing, it's not really designed for residential applications, and because it has exposed fasteners eventually it *is going to leak* at the fasteners. The little rubber grommets on the screws are good for a few years and that is all. For an agricultural building - who cares, but I really hate to see pole barn panels on a house. IF this was a true standing-seam (hidden fastener) copper roof - you could apply it over solid sheathing. Not this stuff.
Really has nothing to do with it - the issue is condensation. But regardless you could never get away with putting steel directly over three layers of shingles. This is a *total* cob-job as others have mentioned. However it is a rental so it'll last him a few years. The valleys are going to leak, the eaves are going to ice dam, the ridge is going to leak. And because there is a old roof underneath those leaks will be hidden for years, but eventually the damage will be widespread and severe.
I thank you for your very informative video. You saved a ton of money by doing that yourself and you do good work. Thank you for this because I need to do this to a roof I have very soon.
I agree, except that ridge cap. You need to fix that. A home inspector sees that and he's going to question EVERYTHING else about the roof installation.
Do you need to get a reroofing like this certified so that when you resell, the roof age is updated to reflect the installation? And who would do that, local inspector? And then, would you need a permit to do this? Thanks.
Shouldn't there be foam at the end of the roof to stop bugs and wind and on the valley? Never seen a roof done like this in my life. Curious to see how it is holding up.
Very wise, putting the routine install screws on top of the ridges instead in the valleys, makes it 1,000x less likely to leak since only a direct hit from a raindrop could even have a chance of leaking at a screw head (who would put a screw in the bottom of a valley when its actually better to put it on top as said ALSO the screws on top where the panels overlap hold the "seams" together much much better so wind can't grab the metal as easily; just use 3/4" longer screws than the norm they try to foist on you. Nice video, thanks. !
The whole thing is beyond DIY...it’s beyond amateur hour.it’s logger style.bush camp style.whatever works it’s good enough.except when it starts to go bad then the real work begins tearing off all those layers what a lot of crap to haul away.and tearing off the old shingles is not that bad a couple guys could do that place in a few hours.the hardest part is getting it to the dump.
I'm telling you right now Danny, a Cut Off Wheel on a 4" Grinder is much easier faster, less likely to cut your self and cheaper way to cut Sheet Metal Roofing. Over all looks damn good man!
usually it's a zinc substrate beneath the paint. it vaporizes when the grinder hits the roofing. In areas with significant condensation, using a grinder is a recipe for premature panel rusting.
Your roof will rust if you cut it with something that heats up the protective coating. Do not ever cut sheet metal with an angle grinder if it's gonna be exposed to moisture.
That's a shit ton of weight! I'm up North and can have like 15" of snow sitting on the roof for long periods plus it's no longer allowed to have more than one layer at a time. You do save a lot of money but i'd still worry about the weight of it all.
The ridge cap would have been worth it they sell some pretty wide ones.. anyway the purlins run that way is the only way you cannot run them vertically! Thats just well nevermind about that i usually try to leave the old stuff its just a lot to dispose of it all and the labor costs involved in a tear off is not cost effective at least not to me anyway the proper underlayment would not have been but another 50 bucks and i do recommend the 3/4 foam insulation between the perlins customer wants it we do it they dont that is their decision 2 ft centers on the perlins screwed down at 12 inches on center so every other screw if you try will go into a truss i had one inspector in holly hill read the code wrong and he made us do 4inch on center staggered on the perlins that was just crazy and made nothing but Swiss cheese out of them but you do what they want or get held up and pay reinspection fees till you die of old age your right there the trim is pricey but makes the job in the end we pre drill all the panels idk 10 at a time or something and when its finished and all the. Screws.are in a perfect line both horizontal and vertical it really makes a big difference ive seen some really bad homeowner or handyman roofs and smh wow it will work probobly for a good long time as long as you didn't go crazy overtightening the. Screws And destroying the. Washers over all if yohve never done one before yoh did in my opinion not terrible its just that there are so many hard. Working honest guys that would have been willing to help yoh and share what they know even for just a days pay of 150.00 or so and the end result would have. Shown the difference so I bet another 300 bucks or maybe a little more would have been well spent and an inspection to show upon sale of the place is a big selling feature now yoh gott a kinda hope they dont notice the green stuff up there n ask about it price yoh wanted surely cut down some
No! Put the screws on the ridges, not the valleys. The plastic washers will degrade over time, and the roof will leak if the screws are in the valleys. In Australia, this would be an instant fail.
@@DannysCam Then find a new manufacturer. Your clients are going to blame you in ten years' time when they find that their roofs are leaking and the timber underneath is rotting. Washers on roofing screws only work if you have not over-tightened or under-tightened them, and they degrade over time.
A master craftsman and artisan can install the most accurate, professional metal roof that ever was. One year later, it gets demolished to make way for a new Amazon store. Who cares?! Dust in the wind!
FYI - Running wood from top to bottom (vertical) underneath your horizontal wood would allow more airflow (vent the heat) to reduce A/C costs. Cheap upfront is not always cheapest long run.
I am not trying to be negative about a video intended to help others but I don't recommend this. I had my roof done 9 years ago and after the tear off they ran ice/water shield the whole way with drip edge on the edges then 1x4 lath. Metal roofing inherently sweats, when you add an airspace under it by putting it on lath, the sweat will dam up on the top edge of the lath and you will have a constant drip with the daily temperature changes which will eventually over time get in behind the facia boards and cause problems. (Ask me how I know) Also, the lath being constantly wet from the sweat will cause it to rot. My roof has OSB sheeting and I was sold on the theory of having the lath so the screws would have more to bite into. True but not the correct way to do it. Better off running the metal right on top of the shingles and run the screws into the sheeting then just babysit the screws in case any back out from the freeze thaw process. At least that's what I am experiencing in this northern Idaho climate.
This is awesome thanks! So many people out there who think everything has to be perfect and done by the book like your not just stopping the rain from getting in.
i did ine by myself, took me 3 years, i have bad eyes (i see two screw heads ) and afraid of hieghts. but im poor , so had no choices. i used 5/4 deck boards two feet on center, and used 1inch foil foam between for extra insulation, noise dampening. but i know im no expert, just making due
You are also a poor speller.
@salazam you are a jackass
Cool we have had basic handy folks do a whole area of town for elder & handicap folks & saved big bucks & no one's complaining! Very ~ Functional & looks Way Better! Thank you 4 suggestions & ideas ~with deals & such ~neighbors helping neighbors~or we couldn't have done it all
I am going to be in the market soon to buy a home and I have always said I will make sure the roof has just been done because I dont want to pay for or deal with that crap. You just showed me that whipping up a roof is no big deal. Now I am going to look to find a house I bargain the full cost of a professionally done roof and then do this so save some cash.
I have always liked the look of tin and this looks great. Well done thank you for this
This is what I needed. I'm about to put some corrugated metal on my roof and this video is super concise. Thanks! You're making it look easy! Well... easier.
Nice job. Doesn't look bad. The only concern I would have is leaving 3 layers of shingles on if I heard you correctly that is a lot of weight to leave on your roof especially if you have 2×4 for your roof.
that's a violation of building code 2 roofs max and if you have the architectural you cannot shingle over it metal probably ok with long fasteners
he mentioned triple roof plus the strips tat roof is holding a hell of a load if its in snow area there's no margin . roof collapse will destroy the home and insurance might not pay. see there's areas where there's no codes but it don't mean skip proper building practices
@@jar407 shut up nerd
Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive watch anything like this before. So nice to seek out any person with some authentic ideas on this subject. realy thanks for beginning this up. this video is one thing thats needed on the net, somebody with a bit of originality. useful job for bringing something new to the youtube!
This is the worst way to do a roof.don’t follow this guys work
The reasons the member below said your boards will rott out is from condensation,the industry standard is to lay a vapor barrier down 1st,then your boards ,in between your nail boards you need to insulate because the dead air space under the metal panels will experience thermal shock and sweat,I've fixed hundreds of leaks from non insulated expansion joints and non insulated metal overlays ,I'm also a journeyman roofer/ waterproofef .
FYI the use of treated lumber is no longer required,the industry mandated all treated wood in the 80's and after 3 decades found the treated wood will dry & pop lose it's fasteners and even pull out bricks with tapcons,you used the right wood but skipping the vapor barrier ( cheap 4 mil plastic ) and insulating may cost you a huge condensation problem .
If that happens don't freak out,just remove the ridge cap & fold the gutter edge of the panels up and allow fresh air to flow,install a raised cap with a 1inch gap to allow air flow and condensate should stop .
I think it doesn't matter.. One clever man said: I am not so rich to buy cheap shoes.. I also think that if you are doing something - try to consult with someone how to do it right, but in this case it looks that he don't care about what he is doing and how it will be looking after...
joshua2585 you can install a standing seam panel roof directly over perlins but in a residential setting it's not a great idea due to thermal shock , an ice cold or baking hot metal roof will condensate badly ,if your in a cold area heat loss in the attic will hit ice cold panels and make them condensate and drip into the attic .
In a hot area where air conditioning is used for hot months cold air loss through the attic will allow cool air to hit a scorching hot metal roof & cause condensation ,which drips into the home .
It's an industry standard in commercial roofing to insulate the substrate before installing panels,or to instal a waterproof skrim such as ice & water shield under the panel system so condensate can run out from under the panels ,a cheap alternative is to install ice shield on the perimeter & lose lay a heavy visquen plastic sheet under the panels to shed any condensation out of the system and into the gutter .
over a existing shingle roof no vapor barrier is required and with the air flow between the metal and shingles it will keep the tin from sweating very much
Rusty Shackelford in climate zones like Michigan or Ohio that experience constant thermal shock of roofing materials a waterproof skrim under metal roofing panels is a must ,a vapor barrier is an entirely different material .
I like the tip Michael gave and the roof work. Good job.
Looks fine.... I used to be a roofer years ago.... No need for silicone in fact it is more likely to cause a problem by making a dam that holds water at the seam.... We would use mastic at the edge that is underneath just thin coat that stops capillary action.... Otherwise bend up both ends and run a ridge over the joint edge.... But you have nothing to worry about you have a roof under your roof... But you should have made gaps in your wood underneath so that air can flow from bottom to top evaporating moisture that in your install will begin rotting your fiberglass and tar paper roofing... As well as the underlayment skins.... Also having those gaps for ventilation would allow your roof to carry away heat in summer.... It's not a big deal I'm sure it will be fine if looks like you do have some horizontal ventilation.... You could have run black pipe under your roof in the gap to pump fluid thru to heat your home on the cheap in winter as well....
When you said gaps, how would you do that ? Cut into the furring strips or .....?
Saw your thumbnail and had to drop in and say my Mom’s neighbor had a metal roof installed after Hurricane Gustav but had it laid directly on the plywood decking. Along comes nasty Hurricane Ida and he had no damage. Some roofs with metal that were installed with stripping were ripped off. Air got under there and pulled the panels off.
Keeping the old shingles will cause massive heat storage in the summer. This will impact you A/C bills if you have more warm days than cold days (such as in Florida). Hot roofing shingles will keep the attic hot all day and well into the night. The metal roof by itself will dissipate this heat into the air as the air cools, the mass of the shingles will not. The shingles will readily absorb this heat from the metal panels and hold it well into the night. But, if you live in a climate with more cold days than warm days, then this would be a good thing.
did he say, "triple roofed" i think thats asking 4 trouble on down the road. but do what u must NOW. this is a must do project, i assume and money tight well done young man.
That's an extremely large amount of weight doesn't matter how tight you are take a loan suck a tradesmen dick do what you have to in order to get your roof done properly it's the only thing keeping Everything from getting wet and destroyed mot to mention it could collapse on you. Your roof is one of the most important things behind a foundation it's a huge selling point if you have a new roof done properly when you sell.
3 roofs are better than 1
Great job man. When I worked construction we put metal roofs on all the houses. Great system, it will last you a long time.
You can’t be serious...🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
@@SilentProwler what wrong with a metal roof ?
Hell if you don’t know what’s wrong with it. then I don’t even need to tell you
@@SilentProwler what would you have done different , just trying to learn does and don'ts, what size screws to lay 1/4 over shingles
@@irshaadwalee8094 tear off old shingle, underlayment, measure it right, slat it, install the right panels correctly , spent the extra ridge cap and for the trim, with 1 1/4 screws or 1 1/2. Might aswell spend the a few hundred extra and get it done right instead of doing it half way and regretting it 5 year later
Lol.. have done several different metal roofs .. get the deals where you can.. good job my man! Like the comment on being perceptive, so true … once you do it, you’ll notice others even more…
You are a genius! Thank you for making this video. If you ever do one again, have someone else film so the video is steady. Thank you again.
It might last 5 years but I doubt it speaking from 45 years in the construction trades. That ridge cap is what is going to cause problems first. If it doesn't blow to hard when it rains it might work.....Good Luck
More than one way to skin a cat. I glued some kitchen cabinets to drywall and everyone said it would come down and won't support the weight its been there since 2006 i moved from that apartment and the new tenants are using it
@@divinee.155mama always said, stupid is is stupid does. 😅
I would have silicone under the panel to form a gasket seal instead of at the joints externally. The elements are going to loosen up the silicone and leak.Concerned about the valley with the exposed ribs. Ice dams snow melting into the ribs could be an issue over time. Saw the comments on a vapor barrier and took note of that.Thanks for the video Danny.
We haven't had snow or ice in 10 years good info though on colder climates
Yeah my dad put an aluminum roof on his house. It’s been on there since I was in the 4th grade - I’m 35 now and he’s had zero problems.
Aluminum roof??
Great video. Not everyone has the money for a "professional" job. Some just need it to be functional. Making it "Pretty" is very expensive while functional, serving the purpose, can be accomplished on a budget. Your right that they rob you on the trim. There are ways around that which still serves the purpose you just need a creative mind. Luckily I'm not the type who is obsessed with it being "pretty". As long as it does the job I'm good.
people spend a lot of money chasing pretty for my own house i buy from the scratch and dent store and i save thousands that way.
I need a new roof and have little money. also disabled 62 yr. old woman. Where can I buy scratch and dent and how much should I expect to pay to have it installed. raccoons on the roof have been scratching to get in the house. just spent $200 for a patch job. any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. ty.
Dale Higgins cheap is not an option
daschundloverable racoons?
Dale Higgins I completely agree with you sir
I just used a marker and a level and pre-drilled the holes which worked really well n made it much easier n faster to get the panels held up being the only one on the roof attaching them
Looks like a sound roof. You are correct. We notice our own flaws others will miss entirely. Thanks!
If they were blind they might miss it.
Seriously? Maybe for a hunting camp.
Good job. Maybe could have cut that ridge piece and lapped over the short ones on up to the ridge. Then used the ridge cap pieces. Still a good job bro for a 1 man show with no experience. Great idea with the discount materials. I have a big house in the county I am going to start buying like that for.
My sorta quick & sensibly priced roof repair. Good job.
What a great job and loved the price .I want to build one for my drive way to put my 63' nova under .Tks for the tips God bless
But do it properly that guy made a mess.done on the cheap.I wonder if he used the screws for wood
@@polarlab113 thank you my friend I would change a few things but still do his theorie.
Well Done, the firing strips are interesting, due to the half inch of air insulation. By now you have enjoyed the winters with the snow just sliding off....
You're a brave soul. I never would have posted a video of me doing a job like that. I do metal roofs. Your saving grace on that is the 3 layers of asphalt shingles under it.
great job brother. I'm about to do my roof so any piece of information that I got your video is very helpful. Thank you for posting it
Hey nice dog
If you do yours like this man is teaching you to do you will severely screw it up the three-quarter inch boards won't have enough meat to hold screws and they will back out the condensation that occurs in the space left out of 3/4 inch boards will condensate and will Rust the metal
very nice. I am inspired. I think the caulking should go under so it is not exposed to sunlight
+David Phillips The caulking should definitely be sandwiched and a high-temp variety. The UV exposure will make it brittle in no time.
Caulking is the wrong product for that.the manufacturers specify sealing tape.it’s a special mastic similar to what they use for automobile windshields.Stays flexible in all climates and conditions
Guy quoted me $1900 for my 18x20 garage roof.
I had the Amish cut me a roof kit for $525.
Doing it myself now.
Its not impossible.
Damn, wish I'd find pricing that low in central Ohio.
Gerard, Im fixing to do metal roofing in a mobile home fixer upper,. Is a single mobile home,. How much do you think I would be spending on material only?. My brother in law is willing to do the work for me if I buy all the material.. do you have any idea???
@@mayte8018 what is the length and width of the mobile home. Basic dimensions will help give you a rough estimate. Then are you looking at doing trusses or rafters and what is currently sticking thru the roof like vent stacks or chimney's
If it was Lancaster Amish, can you provide referral / source?
Can you give me a contact for the Amish roof kit. Thanks
what about putting 1/4 inch rubber strips on the wood so when you screw in the screw you have a rubber gasket on the top of the screw and under the sheet metal to keep it from leaking it the rubber gasket on the screw fails. the rubber strip under gives it added protection and sealing power????
Good job bro.. I like it... That 20 inch piece and the silicone give it some character
Really nice roofing job Bro! We had a 29g roof installed recently and it’s a mess. If I knew then what I knew now I would have probably installed it myself.
FYI, I would highly recommend anyone looking for a metal roof to atleast step up to 26g steel. Also, keep close eyes on your contractor throughout this particular project. Ensure they do not over tighten the screws and damage the paneling. Check the valley seams, they should overlap 6” minimum. As for the vent/chimney flashing make darn sure they’re placing the upgradient end under the metal sheeting to help prevent water from infiltrating beneath the flashing.
In short, manyyy experienced roofers and suppliers have told us they do not recommend metal roofing. It’s HIGH maintenance due to the material quality, expanding of materials, likelihood of wind blowing rain backup and under seams.
If a Roofer won’t send you a professionally written estimate with their letterhead, followed by a written warranty, many references for roofs they’ve installed several years prior than do not waste your money on them.
We now have to remove our brand new roofing due to liars that believe they can roof but truly don’t have the skill level to cut the material properly, lay out the panels, know the best way to seal seams, etc.
Pay 1/3rd cost and get the lifetime warranty shingles that also covers 25yrs of labor and be done.
the reason i'm here ... guy just came out to give my mom a estimate for a metal roof, unfortunately i couldn't be there due to my work schedule but when i got there my mom was all excited saying "the guy is amish and he gave me a good price for the metal roof $17k and said look at the estimate and see what you think .. i looked at it and immediately see it's 29 guage metal and it's of course exposed fastener .. he did not explain anything to my mom about guage thickness, difference of exposed fastener/standing seam etc.
I called the guy and told him i was concerned about the 29g metal on her log home that frequently experiences high wind .. his response "29g is all we use and i have not had a roof blow off yet" also the only warranty i seen on estimate was 5-year labor. I told my mom i feel she'd be better off with a good quality shingle roof replacement.
Please share your thoughts .... i also worry about the exposed fasteners as i have read online how the washers can fail after 7-10 years and water can leak through those screw holes ..
This is a good video, my only concern is the seam on the ridge, with the time the caulk will break and go in between because the standing seam won't let the water out, but is good bro
I checked it last year and recauked your right the old silicon gets uv damaged
You did that yourself with no help ? Then your my type of guy because that's what I do also. All your boards are straight, looks good. Great Video thanks.
Joe De Jesus thanks man only took like 2 days by my self
We are the men who make this world go around. Today's intellectual need a entire team to swap out a light bulb, theyl look up the history of lightbulbs, look at the most efficient light bulb made with eco friendly materials then write a thesis on changing light bulbs. And yes you don't need any one for anything if your mechanically inclined you have the common sense and can pick up anything. We could prolly be doctors if we had corpses to work on but they'd out us in padded rooms if we did that.
@@adolffloydjr.1587 I agree.....
Congratulations. Love to see a hard working man😊😊
awesome man. Im liking your cap. never seen it done like that. My grandfather owns 100 plus rental properties. .my brother and i been metal roofin them. Finishing a big two story place today. 30° outside. Take care.
+Leadwint about to close on my first rental will be roofing it the same way easy
I did this too but I allowed a 1 foot overhang... probably not up to code and might maybe possibly may be a problem in a wind storm.. but I’ll take my chances and it keeps water far from the house.... and I’m not catching the water.... I used to need to catch the water liv8ng off grid but here in Florida we have wells, all the free water I need.
Danny, has the roof remained leak free? (I'm assuming you have had to do regular maintenance, at least after 5 years). Very well done, btw. Adapting to your needs by fabricating the parts you need is impressive.
It's worked out great we had a tornado earlier this year I had to replace the ridge cap that's about it I appreciate your comment
Good video, if you don't want to purchase the metal cutting tool a simpler trick is to remove the blade from a handheld skill saw, turn it backwards, replace and tighten. It will cut clean in similar fashion
Heat from the blade scorches the painted metal. Been there, done that, bought an electric shear from HF
Where are the plumbing stacks, vents, roof vents, ridge vents?
Wallace Grommet First? I had too! That’s no right at all.!!!
I had the same question. Were the vent stacks cut slightly below the height of the one by fours, so the venting could still happen within the space above the existing roof within the one by four height across the roof? I guess this would be OK if the venting can still happen enough outside of the trailer. I would like to hear thoughts from the author to see if there have been any venting issues and what exactly was done with the vents.
We don’t need no stinking vents! 😂🤣
Nice work! I reversed my skill saw blade to cut the metal. Worked like a charm.
Now that is a very good tip.
I tried that. The heat scorched the red paint on the metal. So I bought a cheap metal shear from HF
Never cut sheet metal with a saw. The heat will destroy the protective coating and it will rust to shit. Theirs a reason tradesmen don't cut it that way.
How's it holding up, I been working on mine, taking a while since it's only me and I work full time. my old roof is pretty much shot. so it's a nice upgrade. .
No leaks so good
How about now tin still holding up?
@@livingintheprairie1517 great
looks great, we need to do our cottage roof, just a small cabin of a building with a screen porch that needs covering. Looking for easiest and cheapest way. Great video, thank you.
It would be even cheaper to use trash bags and scotch tape. Getcha some! Everyone seems to be mesmerized by how cheap he did it, and completely over look the fact that just about everything was done WRONG, guarantying failure of the roof.
If you are putting metal roofing on a slightly sloped new building roof with a tar paper cover over the OSB do you need to put the 1 x 4 down, or is that only to fir off of shingles??
your silicone is gonna cook in the sun. , but you got a great deal on the materials. as long a you keep a yearly eye on the silicone and replace it as needed you saved a big bundle
is there a better sealant that won't cook in the sun?
Tar wont
"Tar" (which isn't really tar these days) degrades in ultra-violet light just like everything else does. This installation is a mess. We won't allow any installation that relies on sealants of any kind as a first defense against leaks. Gravity flashings, properly fabricated, are the *only* reliable solution long-term. Just glopping something out of a caulking gun onto a roof is a joke.
Keep in mind you get what you pay for, if you have a lake cottage or home you want to resale you do not want somthing that will to help with resale inthe long run do it right the first time, the material and workmanship matter
these and rental property i do for my self and family no resell they make there money back in 40 months
I've laid thousands of square of metal roofing. Never seen someone put it down with battons. Micheal Ledford is right the wood will rot and a lot faster than you think depending on the weather where you're at.TOTAL AMATEUR SorryDanny
I keep hearing about using firring strips if metal roof installed over shingles (for shed.) I'm assuming firring strips are same as battons. Had a barn for decades and firring strips under metal roof did not rot. But please elaborate bc planning to use ffitring strips over shingles on a shed in a few months. Thanks! (PS barn was in rainy East Coast,.DelMarVa area.)
PS - Also, do you think treated wood (vs untreated battons) would hold up better for metal roof (installed over shingles on a shed.) Thanks.
I did the same on my roof expect its double layered shingled. House started to shift. And cracks in walls. Think its a little to heavy but I just fill the cracks in sheet rock and repaint wall lol.
It's not the weight, leaving the singles on and not removing them is a national code violation. The singles are a combustible material. People have had their house burn down. It's the same thing when using lacquer, acetone in the trash because it can Ignite
Looks good I'm doing mine soon my only comment is instead of laying wood under the tin I would have just put fan fold down and screwed the tin to the shingles, that's how we always done it when I worked roofing I've put on many and never herd of any leaks being a problem, anyways man best to ya hope all is well
It may b cheaper but you not only have the weight of the original shingles on your roof but you're adding even more weight by putting metal panels on as your new roof.
Your vidoes are better than any I have seen on Utude! Cannot wait to see your next project!
uuuuhh
Gloria Davis thanks man check out my other remodeling videos
Looks good to me, about to try that myself later this spring / summer......good work.
Great job danny ..luv your video cause you just taught me how to do it my self ..
thanks for your positive comment
Nice job. What people don’t realize is that you don’t have to be fussy with metal.
a bud of mine bought a house in need of a new roof, it had a simple low pitch A-shape roof and he got them to take $15,000 off the house price here in Washington. Me and him worked on his roof for 4 weekends and put the metal roofing just like this over the older shingle roof which thankfully wasn't leaking anywhere. He spent only $580 for materials as he got 3 different color metal roofing from a local roofing comoany that had leftovers from numerous jobs and we improvised. He also used scrap throwaway frame boards to install for the frame which didn't cost a thing either. All he had to buy was the screws, caulk, and metal trim and joint metal pieces and that was all! He got 2 estimates from roofing companies up here who quoted $22,000 and $19,500.
Yo thanks for this inspiring video I will start my project in the next 30 days
Hey thanks glad if it helps price of metal gone high check market place
@DannysCam yea I started gathering materials in December
No beutel tape in your valleys or closer tape glad it is over shingles. And yes the condensate will tear up the sleepers but they will dry how many cycles before a issue hard to say but for the price and the time should be worth it.
Can younwalk on these roofs? Seems like they will dent easy. Thanks for sharing 👍.
If you step where the screws are the strapping is under that so you’re going to be fine. If you wear running shoes they are softer and lots of grip on a high pitch roof.
If you step where the screws are that’s where the strapping is so you’re fine. Wear running shoes for grip on higher pitch roof
If you step where the screws are that’s where the strapping is so you’re fine. Wear running shoes for grip on higher pitch roof.
I'm not a roofer or carpenter, but why do you need to add the 1x4 cross boards. Could you just use longer screws and screw the metal shingles over the existing shingles?
I would periodically check the silicone. When it comes to water versus silicone, if left unattended, water always wins eventually.
Might sound silly, but flex seal is what I would probably use. I have sealed up exterior gaps a half inch or so wide that held for ten years. The stuff is crazy lol
I'd be thrilled to come out that good on my roof. I'm getting ready to do mine soon.
Im on almost the same kind of a project. Similar roof layout. Been putting on the furring strips , mine are 27 centers. Its fairly hard finding the rafter centers to make sure the 1x4's are down really tight. Im using 3 1/4" nail by air nailer. Im concerned that Im getting the 1x4's close enough to the edge so i can put on the drip edge, because i didnt cut off the overhanging shingles with a sawzall. Is that drip edge essential? also im using double bubble roll under the metal panels. and im using brilliant white metal to reduce heat in the home. THis is the main goal. since this double wide has zero loft insulation. it causes the a/c to run 24/7..
We got a few places I buy from in northeast Florida non painted galvalum is 1.27 lF new and cut to size and painted Is 1.40 LF new 29 gage and .15 more for 26 gauge
must be nice. I pay a 1.80 for galvalum and 1.95 for painted and that is with a discount the average person is paying 2.25 for painted and 2.10 for galvalum
I'm in Starke and need a new roof. Where do you get the metal please !?
Another feature is to lay on a anti sweat membrane under metal roofing. It's a bubble wrap sold 4 ft width. We got it & well worth it, especially in humid climates.
Nice work !.Please let me know which state are you in.Thanks
Looked good till you put that piece on the ridge length ways
😂
You saved thousands on this project by doing it your self
I've always wondered. If you cut the steel, surely you should re-zinc it where you have exposed bare iron?
why the wood strips and not lay the steel panels directly on the shingles which are backed by plywood?
The metal roofing panel manufacturers don't want steel roofing directly on sheathing (or anything else) because of condensation issues. The steel needs to dry on the back side. This is POLE BARN roofing, it's not really designed for residential applications, and because it has exposed fasteners eventually it *is going to leak* at the fasteners. The little rubber grommets on the screws are good for a few years and that is all. For an agricultural building - who cares, but I really hate to see pole barn panels on a house. IF this was a true standing-seam (hidden fastener) copper roof - you could apply it over solid sheathing. Not this stuff.
Really has nothing to do with it - the issue is condensation. But regardless you could never get away with putting steel directly over three layers of shingles. This is a *total* cob-job as others have mentioned. However it is a rental so it'll last him a few years. The valleys are going to leak, the eaves are going to ice dam, the ridge is going to leak. And because there is a old roof underneath those leaks will be hidden for years, but eventually the damage will be widespread and severe.
I thank you for your very informative video. You saved a ton of money by doing that yourself and you do good work. Thank you for this because I need to do this to a roof I have very soon.
Where is the roof jack flashing detail for that furnace flue pipe?
The whole thing is a mess .so many important details are left out.and not even done
Do you get condensation under the panels? If you do wouldn't it rot the wood over time?
hows he suposed to know
Urethane sealant across your pearlings to fasten your metal down and only screwing top and bottom which gets hidien
Would the wood strips be called "furring"?
If there's 3 layers of old roofing mayb it would be best to tear it off and start new..some states codes say you have to..just an idea
heck man that looks pretty dang good....
thanks
I agree, except that ridge cap. You need to fix that. A home inspector sees that and he's going to question EVERYTHING else about the roof installation.
Do you need to get a reroofing like this certified so that when you resell, the roof age is updated to reflect the installation?
And who would do that, local inspector?
And then, would you need a permit to do this?
Thanks.
Shouldn't there be foam at the end of the roof to stop bugs and wind and on the valley? Never seen a roof done like this in my life. Curious to see how it is holding up.
Very wise, putting the routine install screws on top of the ridges instead in the valleys, makes it 1,000x less likely to leak since only a direct hit from a raindrop could even have a chance of leaking at a screw head (who would put a screw in the bottom of a valley when its actually better to put it on top as said ALSO the screws on top where the panels overlap hold the "seams" together much much better so wind can't grab the metal as easily; just use 3/4" longer screws than the norm they try to foist on you. Nice video, thanks. !
I know a contractor in Indiana that does this, instead of the manufacturers directions. He has done hundreds of roofs with no issues.
You do know they sell Ridge cap for those roofs right the panels you put on your ridges seem like they will pond water
The whole thing is beyond DIY...it’s beyond amateur hour.it’s logger style.bush camp style.whatever works it’s good enough.except when it starts to go bad then the real work begins tearing off all those layers what a lot of crap to haul away.and tearing off the old shingles is not that bad a couple guys could do that place in a few hours.the hardest part is getting it to the dump.
Porque no quitan los shingles?
Yo tuve que terrafiar una casa que le pusieron metal arriva de woodshakes......eso esta mal....
I'm telling you right now Danny, a Cut Off Wheel on a 4" Grinder is much easier faster, less likely to cut your self and cheaper way to cut Sheet Metal Roofing. Over all looks damn good man!
your right
usually it's a zinc substrate beneath the paint. it vaporizes when the grinder hits the roofing. In areas with significant condensation, using a grinder is a recipe for premature panel rusting.
***** Oh I see,
TRX VLOGGER
that being said, I used a grinder on my roof. hahaha...
but I had 22 gauge klip-rib. total pain in the ass to cut it.
Your roof will rust if you cut it with something that heats up the protective coating. Do not ever cut sheet metal with an angle grinder if it's gonna be exposed to moisture.
That's a shit ton of weight! I'm up North and can have like 15" of snow sitting on the roof for long periods plus it's no longer allowed to have more than one layer at a time. You do save a lot of money but i'd still worry about the weight of it all.
Yup not a good idea anymore......anybody ever hear of the titanic?we learned a thing or two since then
It’s a real bad practise
You done a great job, thanks for sharing you help a lots of people that don't know or have comon since, thanks.
The ridge cap would have been worth it they sell some pretty wide ones.. anyway the purlins run that way is the only way you cannot run them vertically! Thats just well nevermind about that i usually try to leave the old stuff its just a lot to dispose of it all and the labor costs involved in a tear off is not cost effective at least not to me anyway the proper underlayment would not have been but another 50 bucks and i do recommend the 3/4 foam insulation between the perlins customer wants it we do it they dont that is their decision 2 ft centers on the perlins screwed down at 12 inches on center so every other screw if you try will go into a truss i had one inspector in holly hill read the code wrong and he made us do 4inch on center staggered on the perlins that was just crazy and made nothing but Swiss cheese out of them but you do what they want or get held up and pay reinspection fees till you die of old age your right there the trim is pricey but makes the job in the end we pre drill all the panels idk 10 at a time or something and when its finished and all the. Screws.are in a perfect line both horizontal and vertical it really makes a big difference ive seen some really bad homeowner or handyman roofs and smh wow it will work probobly for a good long time as long as you didn't go crazy overtightening the. Screws
And destroying the. Washers over all if yohve never done one before yoh did in my opinion not terrible its just that there are so many hard. Working honest guys that would have been willing to help yoh and share what they know even for just a days pay of 150.00 or so and the end result would have. Shown the difference so I bet another 300 bucks or maybe a little more would have been well spent and an inspection to show upon sale of the place is a big selling feature now yoh gott a kinda hope they dont notice the green stuff up there n ask about it price yoh wanted surely cut down some
No! Put the screws on the ridges, not the valleys. The plastic washers will degrade over time, and the roof will leak if the screws are in the valleys. In Australia, this would be an instant fail.
I buy from the manufacturer they say screw in valleys they said other wise it voids there warranty
@@DannysCam Then find a new manufacturer. Your clients are going to blame you in ten years' time when they find that their roofs are leaking and the timber underneath is rotting. Washers on roofing screws only work if you have not over-tightened or under-tightened them, and they degrade over time.
it doesnt rain in Australia
if it looks stupid but it works, it aint stupid!
A master craftsman and artisan can install the most accurate, professional metal roof that ever was. One year later, it gets demolished to make way for a new Amazon store. Who cares?! Dust in the wind!
Like tears in the rain.
P. Stratrovare like watch
?
Actually its a Dollar Store ! @@Chubbycat747
How did native Americans build houses ? I read about them being super warm and not a drop of moisture
FYI - Running wood from top to bottom (vertical) underneath your horizontal wood would allow more airflow (vent the heat) to reduce A/C costs.
Cheap upfront is not always cheapest long run.
The ribs run top to bottom and can do what you're talking about
Looks good but I'd recommend a underlayment on any future projects
Definitely a breathable vapor guard or some kind
KG Oliver .
What.
3 layers of shingles won't suffice.
Totally because that’s the major issue with this roof hahahahahahahah
Why underlay ? Please Tell me the reason for underlay
@@rbaker6323 it separates systems becoming the vapor barrier
You done a great job. Where did you get the big square and how$ also the drill shears and how much tkx love your videos
I hope you have some good sized rafters if the roof already has 3 layers on it! That's a lot of weight
WoodworkingStuff alot of weight? Lol
Too much weight
JCMS how much do you think 20 inches of snow weighs shit for brains.
Woodworki
Gerald, never said anything about snow, but alas, you seem to know it all
I am not trying to be negative about a video intended to help others but I don't recommend this. I had my roof done 9 years ago and after the tear off they ran ice/water shield the whole way with drip edge on the edges then 1x4 lath.
Metal roofing inherently sweats, when you add an airspace under it by putting it on lath, the sweat will dam up on the top edge of the lath and you will have a constant drip with the daily temperature changes which will eventually over time get in behind the facia boards and cause problems. (Ask me how I know) Also, the lath being constantly wet from the sweat will cause it to rot.
My roof has OSB sheeting and I was sold on the theory of having the lath so the screws would have more to bite into. True but not the correct way to do it. Better off running the metal right on top of the shingles and run the screws into the sheeting then just babysit the screws in case any back out from the freeze thaw process.
At least that's what I am experiencing in this northern Idaho climate.
Nice for DIY with no Standards. But I could definitely not sell that.
Nice ridgecap!
thank you a big help for my barn roof
I live for messages like this as age ravages my body I delight in knowing I helped a new generation in some way
running lats with no underlayment? it may sweat and rot your decking out but with 3 layers you may luck out I hope so
You didn’t install some
Type of ridge vent?
Great work...I'm going to put a metal roof on my house. You make it look easy.😁
Just one question why not use real ridge cap and vent