anyone who takes pride in their work would be happy with a level result and if it was out by a little it wouldn't warrant a full fix but it is very rewarding when everything comes together
V good video, given me inspiration. 1 q, why did you not space the bars equally, but had each pair closer to the ends of the beam with a larger gap in the middle?
@@gilatron1241 it is a brick and mortar wall, I used a super strong industrial adhesive, you could also you another type of chemical anchor. If I had to do it again, I would use an expanding wall anchor and screw the threaded bar in and then slide the mantle onto it with adhesive.
@UCvCMmbNpnwhrp7hPvt0rnvA it is a brick and mortar wall, I used a super strong industrial adhesive, you could also you another type of chemical anchor. If I had to do it again, I would use an expanding wall anchor and screw the threaded bar in and then slide the mantle onto it with adhesive.
Looking to take on a similar project. Unfortunately, the wall above our fireplace is solid drywall, with non weight bearing 2x4’s on each corner (it is a recessed fireplace). Only thing I can think of is cutting out a portion of the drywall so I can access the reverse side of the wall, then mounting a strut channel to each corner stud, replacing the sheet rock cutout, then mud/tape,paint. What would you recommend?
@tyler carpenter what about a set of legs that extend to the floor and re clad it to match the the walls. Otherwise if you are not bearing a lot of weight you can do a faux version where you make a hollow box to the size of mantle that you would like and secure that onto the studs. If you want to do the solid wood option you would need to be able to support that weight. Your idea sounds good but I would need to see a pic to understand what you are working with.
Hi Sue, on that size I would recommend using at least an 8mm threaded bar or floating shelf bracket. It also depends how much weight you are wanting to put on the shelf. If you buy the floating shelf brackets they come with a weight rating. In my case I used 12mm threaded bar for maximum strength as we used Iron Wood for the mantle and shelves.
Video is great but you didn’t mention the size of the drill bit and the size of the metal rebar’s so that be great if you can tell me the sizes of everything I need thank you so much.
@@shaunoconnor1979 pretty much, it also depends if you are going into a wall with a cavity or not, I would probably use threaded wall plugs if the wall is limited with depth
Hey Josh, what depth did you drill for the anchor screws and what size where they? I have a 77 in. black walnut mantle into a brick fireplace (with wood cutouts on each side). Looking to mount the mantle
Hi JH Padley, it was some time ago, each rod was cut to 240mm (9.44 in.) half went into the timber and the other half into the wall. it was into masonry brick work. If you are securing into timber studs, you will need to adjust accordingly. I hope this helps. thanks for dropping me a comment and for watching my video.
Hi King Cuff, I am not sure on the weight, but it definitely was a heavy one, this is why I went with 240mm 12mm thick threaded bar to accommodate the weight.
Hey Josh. Amazing and beautiful video👌🎥 So interesting and very helpful information👍👍👍 provided from start to end.. Thanks for sharing👌 Do keep posting👌🆕 Warm regards and Best wishes The UnknownManCub👍😎👨🏭
Hi +Daniel, I really appreciate the comment and support. I am trying to post some new content again soon. I will also stop by your channel. Have an awesome day
Hello👋🙋♂️ there... Amazing and very interesting video🎥.. Super like👌👌👌 Great explanation from start to end Thanks for sharing Do keep posting Warm regards and best👍💯 wishes The UnknownManCub 👍😎👨🏭
@@JoshTheDIYguy no it's about 4 inches square, I can just about see pins going in at the back, because the middle part has warped with the heat, and come away from the wall a bit.
Get yourself a decent multi-purpose saw like an Irwin Jack and cut chunks out of it till you're down to the pins. If that's still a struggle, use a hammer and chisel to clean up. Then remove pins.
Hi, I just have a question to ask. If this beam is not put up correctly, can it affect the bricks or have an impact on the structure of the chimney itself? Many thanks.
Thats a tough one as not all chimneys and buildings are the same. The main thing is to ensure that your mountings are secure. You can use epoxy chemical anchor if needed to secure the mounts into the wall.
You know what I bet fellow DIYers would love to see? You drill the holes, insert the rods, mount the mantle in a dry fit... and it's not level. Now what?
yeah, i guess that could happen, but remember to always measure twice and cut once. There are ways to level it after you do the dry fit, but try and avoid that by double checking everything first.
@@JoshTheDIYguy what were you using? I also use gorilla glue max (white glue, orange tube) for many projects that require a fast and very secure adhesive. That stuff is actually very impressive
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Josh, Fellow DIY creator here, I like the new channel. I just subscribed 👍
Thanks so much for the support. I have headed over to your channel and really enjoyed it. New sub from me. Have a great weekend
@@JoshTheDIYguy Thanks so much, looking forward to more of your content. Cheers brother!
The torpedo level on 6ft surface is hilarious 😂
It’s plumb, you are welcome to fly to South Africa to come double check 😂
It’s plumb, you are welcome to fly to South Africa to come double check 😂
Great vid and great use of all thread as an alternative to the overpriced brackets. Definitely going to use this method!
Thanks so much, it worked well for us
What's the point in checking the final install level? Would you really pull the whole thing off to fix a small deviation?
anyone who takes pride in their work would be happy with a level result and if it was out by a little it wouldn't warrant a full fix but it is very rewarding when everything comes together
You solved not only my problem, but a great mystery to me! 😆 Thanks a lot!! Great job!
Glad to hear that! Let me know if you every try to install your own.
Made the job a lot easier, paper outline was the way to go!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support.
What size threaded bar did you use? M12?
That's correct, 12mm thread bar
Making the job look easy, thanks for the tip's!
thank you so much. I appreciate your message
This really helped me.
Awesome, let me know if you tried your own
Simple & very nice.... Good job bro
thank you so much, I appreciate the comment
V good video, given me inspiration. 1 q, why did you not space the bars equally, but had each pair closer to the ends of the beam with a larger gap in the middle?
Think I’ve just realised the answer to my own question: so you don’t drill into the flue?
@@johnkendall4660 thats correct
AWESOME JOB!!
Thanks!!
Nice. My effort sagged. 1.4m piece of pine into brick. Should i retry and attempt to drill the holes at a slight angle downwards?
You could try 2 stage chemical anchor, we're the holes snug with no play on the rods?
I suppose you could use rebars cut down
@@tee2899 absolutely, that will definitely work
@@JoshTheDIYguy thanks Josh
Mantle looks great! How are you securing the steel rods to the wall? Just the glue? Is it in drywall?
Oh I watched it again and now I see you drilled into the studs.
@@gilatron1241 it is a brick and mortar wall, I used a super strong industrial adhesive, you could also you another type of chemical anchor. If I had to do it again, I would use an expanding wall anchor and screw the threaded bar in and then slide the mantle onto it with adhesive.
@UCvCMmbNpnwhrp7hPvt0rnvA it is a brick and mortar wall, I used a super strong industrial adhesive, you could also you another type of chemical anchor. If I had to do it again, I would use an expanding wall anchor and screw the threaded bar in and then slide the mantle onto it with adhesive.
I see you have a can of qmax in the shot that stuff is great
Looking to take on a similar project. Unfortunately, the wall above our fireplace is solid drywall, with non weight bearing 2x4’s on each corner (it is a recessed fireplace). Only thing I can think of is cutting out a portion of the drywall so I can access the reverse side of the wall, then mounting a strut channel to each corner stud, replacing the sheet rock cutout, then mud/tape,paint. What would you recommend?
@tyler carpenter what about a set of legs that extend to the floor and re clad it to match the the walls. Otherwise if you are not bearing a lot of weight you can do a faux version where you make a hollow box to the size of mantle that you would like and secure that onto the studs. If you want to do the solid wood option you would need to be able to support that weight. Your idea sounds good but I would need to see a pic to understand what you are working with.
What are those Rods you're using there??
12mm steel threaded bar
@@JoshTheDIYguy you think I could use rebar instead?
@@george5697 yes you could, and then secure it with a 2 part chemical anchor (Gorilla makes a good one)
very good instruction video, thanks...
thanks so much for stopping by and for the message
Masyaallah, Good Job boy 👍
Nice to meet you boy, From Indonesia
thanks, nice to meet you too.
great video
thank you so much for the comment.
Thanks
What if the alls have previous holds from a Mandela that was there before
repair the holes or see if you can incorporate it into the placement of the mantle.
Does the glue not just hinder maintenance
That depends, our idea with this is a set and forget scenario. Especially as it is not a high ware and turn item
Just wondering what size screws l would need for 5 feet length by 6x6 weight 5.00kg they will be using 6mm dril bit 🤔
Hi Sue, on that size I would recommend using at least an 8mm threaded bar or floating shelf bracket. It also depends how much weight you are wanting to put on the shelf. If you buy the floating shelf brackets they come with a weight rating. In my case I used 12mm threaded bar for maximum strength as we used Iron Wood for the mantle and shelves.
Men, I just love your Idea, I have a big piece of wood like that and I going to try it, I subscribe also.
Thanks so much. Let me know how it goes
Video is great but you didn’t mention the size of the drill bit and the size of the metal rebar’s so that be great if you can tell me the sizes of everything I need thank you so much.
Hi Jose, the drill bit is a 12mm Auger bit and the threaded bar is a 12mm threaded bar cut to 240mm long each
Maybe I missed it in the comments but where do you get the metal posts to float the shelves and what would they be called ? Thanks
Hi Patrick, I used 12mm Threaded Bar which come in 1M lengths.
I am installing a wood mantle
African mahogany
78" X 7" X 4" wights about 80 pounds. Wandering what size rod to use?
12mm High Tensile steel or you could use a rebar
How big do u cut your thread bar
230mm
@@JoshTheDIYguy is that 115 into wall and 115 mill into timber
@@shaunoconnor1979 pretty much, it also depends if you are going into a wall with a cavity or not, I would probably use threaded wall plugs if the wall is limited with depth
Hey Josh, what depth did you drill for the anchor screws and what size where they? I have a 77 in. black walnut mantle into a brick fireplace (with wood cutouts on each side). Looking to mount the mantle
Hi JH Padley, it was some time ago, each rod was cut to 240mm (9.44 in.) half went into the timber and the other half into the wall. it was into masonry brick work. If you are securing into timber studs, you will need to adjust accordingly. I hope this helps. thanks for dropping me a comment and for watching my video.
@@JoshTheDIYguywhat about the diameter of the rod? Looks like M12 or so?
@@A._.A._. Correct it is a 12mm Steel Threaded Rod. Are you going to be building one?
Nais job...!!!!
thanks so much
what kind of wood is the mantle?
I stand to be corrected but I think it was blackwood
How much did it weigh? My live edge piece weighs about 60 pounds. Any tips???
Hi King Cuff, I am not sure on the weight, but it definitely was a heavy one, this is why I went with 240mm 12mm thick threaded bar to accommodate the weight.
Hey Josh.
Amazing and beautiful video👌🎥
So interesting and very helpful information👍👍👍 provided from start to end..
Thanks for sharing👌
Do keep posting👌🆕
Warm regards and Best wishes
The UnknownManCub👍😎👨🏭
Hi +Daniel, I really appreciate the comment and support. I am trying to post some new content again soon. I will also stop by your channel. Have an awesome day
Hello👋🙋♂️ there...
Amazing and very interesting video🎥.. Super like👌👌👌
Great explanation from start to end
Thanks for sharing
Do keep posting
Warm regards and best👍💯 wishes
The UnknownManCub 👍😎👨🏭
Thanks so much for stopping by and taking the time to leave a comment.
I've got a floating oak mantle and it needs to be replaced, how do I remove it, can't see how it's fixed on
How thick is the mantle. Is it built into the brick work?
@@JoshTheDIYguy no it's about 4 inches square, I can just about see pins going in at the back, because the middle part has warped with the heat, and come away from the wall a bit.
Get yourself a decent multi-purpose saw like an Irwin Jack and cut chunks out of it till you're down to the pins. If that's still a struggle, use a hammer and chisel to clean up. Then remove pins.
@@lukeshepherd9529very good advice from Luke. Sorry for my delayed reply. Been swamped at work.
Hi, I just have a question to ask. If this beam is not put up correctly, can it affect the bricks or have an impact on the structure of the chimney itself? Many thanks.
Thats a tough one as not all chimneys and buildings are the same. The main thing is to ensure that your mountings are secure. You can use epoxy chemical anchor if needed to secure the mounts into the wall.
Nice. Glue on the back on a painted wall was unnecessary but other than that it was a nice project.
We wanted to make it a forever shelf :D
You know what I bet fellow DIYers would love to see? You drill the holes, insert the rods, mount the mantle in a dry fit... and it's not level. Now what?
yeah, i guess that could happen, but remember to always measure twice and cut once. There are ways to level it after you do the dry fit, but try and avoid that by double checking everything first.
That bounce at 1:49 🥴
what about it?
Are you wanting to install you own floating mantle? I look forward to answering your questions.
How much weight can it hold?
@@DawahDigital it depends on the tensile of the steel, but I would be comfortable to stand on it
@@JoshTheDIYguythank you
I am no handyman or mechanic, but my initial reaction is "don't drill into a board with your car tire as the backing." - I subscribed though.
Well only if you don't measure correctly. 😁 we knew the risks we were taking and a 2 ton Audi made a great stable solution to push against
Also thanks so much for the sub and for taking the time to drop a comment. It really helps a lot
I just realized I was commenting from my other account. Thanks again for the support
Lmfao
if you’re not a handy man just STFU
I use an epoxy
Epoxy is also a brilliant chemical anchor ⚓️ 👏
@@JoshTheDIYguy what were you using? I also use gorilla glue max (white glue, orange tube) for many projects that require a fast and very secure adhesive. That stuff is actually very impressive
@@dilldowschwagginz2674 I was using a sika product called Sikaflex®-118 Extreme Grab
Construction Adhesive
Drill through the beam... flatten car tire... lol
Lol, but there was planning in place and you would have to be a bit dense to do that.
LEKKER LEKKER
Yes Ja, Lekker