I came up with a way to clear the orifices. I recover the refrigerant, then I burn a hole at the bottom of the liquid header. I then cut the suction line and liquid line in the middle above the heater. I then use RX-11 flush with nitrogen and flush it through the suction line backwards. most of the RX-11 and nitro come out of the bottom of the liquid header. I do this a few times. I clean and clear with pure nitro and braze the header hole and the lines. I evacuate to below 500 microns and charge. I've done this 15 or more times on these Tranes and I've never had an issue. everyone else goes to the TXV complicated kit. when I share this I always get positive feedback.
Eric M yes, that is what I did on my first one many moons ago. it worked but not for very long. that is why I used the flush. so I continued to use it on the first try every time to prevent call backs.
I think that with only 2 or so plugged the nitrogen would take the path of least resistance and I don't think it would build enough pressure to clear them. Then I would put everything back together just to be back at square 1
Eric M yeah. That's what I'm gonna probably do. These things are garbage. Why not put a txv to begin with or 1 piston that's removable like some older Trane's.
I know the guy who designed the M J degreaser. He somehow got approval to call it that because he thought it was Magic Juice. MJ. I don't know if it actually worked though. He was a smart engineer who over complicated everything. They called him speedball.
That was quite a light show with your thermal camera. You might want to change the temperature scale from automatic as you have it to manual. As you move from area to area, the scale changes and the colors keep changing, if you leave it fixed, you will get more meaningful readings. It works no matter how you do it but gives you more of a feel to the relative temperature differences. Jim
The way I was short to check for restrictions in those short orifices is to remove the fan from the circuit and watch which orifices have a restriction by then not icing up
I made a video doing that and many tried to crucify me telling me my test was wrong. Even though the test you mention works and you will see parts of the coil not icing.
I don't use 407c personally but I get a lot of calls from other companies using them it seems like none of them work. Always have pressures like there is a restriction and seems like the things make a hell of a lot of water
Dan Matz it’s probably because they don’t know what they are doing. 407c is the closest match to r22. The r22 txvs have 407c stamped on them as well. A lot of older libert equipment has 407c from the factory. The one thing I have heard is that the Trane 3-D scroll compressor done like 407c. There’s a bulletin on it.
oh at least there's a kit for it id go txv... saw a picture of the orifice replacement and sinks a hole in the pocket!! I'd go best bet the txv conversion costs a fraction but looks like there's some work to installing it... looks interesting to do.... i mostly do refrigeration and its captube or txv...
Alexander Figueroa yeah. It's not very difficult just takes time. They sale a short orifice header assembly replacement but I wouldn't go back with that. It's pretty much like a bunch of cap tubes for one coil. Not a good design. At leave with a txv you can adjust it and it try's to maintain constant superheat.
real cool thermal image video , which brand or make was that and did it assist you a lot on locating the restrictions or you use it for verifying what you suspecting could be!?
I never heard of people doing it while it's running I just changed one earlier today to a TXV kit. I'll have to try that out next time thanks for the tip
Here u go again with your propaganda about Trane not being the most bestest :) Magnets...yes! This was like an Arnold Schwarzenegger movie for a second...epic. Lots of debris son. Enjoyed
great video . good service call. that flir can come handy.
Great video!!! gotta take that trane...
nice diagnostic's palacios thank you for sharing!!!!!
jimbola77 thanks man
looks that unit is sitting on the roof the corner buy the condenser looks .like the roof has already been damage. is that what im seeing?
I came up with a way to clear the orifices. I recover the refrigerant, then I burn a hole at the bottom of the liquid header. I then cut the suction line and liquid line in the middle above the heater. I then use RX-11 flush with nitrogen and flush it through the suction line backwards. most of the RX-11 and nitro come out of the bottom of the liquid header. I do this a few times. I clean and clear with pure nitro and braze the header hole and the lines. I evacuate to below 500 microns and charge. I've done this 15 or more times on these Tranes and I've never had an issue. everyone else goes to the TXV complicated kit. when I share this I always get positive feedback.
HVince AC nice. Looks like that would work well.
oh yeah, of course I replace the drier.
Eric M
yes, that is what I did on my first one many moons ago. it worked but not for very long. that is why I used the flush. so I continued to use it on the first try every time to prevent call backs.
I think that with only 2 or so plugged the nitrogen would take the path of least resistance and I don't think it would build enough pressure to clear them. Then I would put everything back together just to be back at square 1
Eric M yeah. That's what I'm gonna probably do. These things are garbage. Why not put a txv to begin with or 1 piston that's removable like some older Trane's.
Amazing video man!
Fox Family Heating and Air Conditioning thanks Greg.
i started watching your videos
I know the guy who designed the M J degreaser. He somehow got approval to call it that because he thought it was Magic Juice. MJ. I don't know if it actually worked though. He was a smart engineer who over complicated everything. They called him speedball.
lol that’s awesome. I was wondering what the MJ stood for.
That was quite a light show with your thermal camera. You might want to change the temperature scale from automatic as you have it to manual. As you move from area to area, the scale changes and the colors keep changing, if you leave it fixed, you will get more meaningful readings. It works no matter how you do it but gives you more of a feel to the relative temperature differences. Jim
Good job
Great video's seems as if its trane package units that have these issues.
Carrier also.
Good video. You going with the TXV kits?
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C thanks man. yeah. It's looks simple on this unit. Only 6 feeders.
Yea I don't think it was going to clear that cool video though buddy
Joe Shearer thanks Joe. Yeah Im not betting on that working. It would be a miracle if it did.
Don't the bigger Trane units typically have Rotalock fittings on the compressors?
Not these days. I wish they still did.
The way I was short to check for restrictions in those short orifices is to remove the fan from the circuit and watch which orifices have a restriction by then not icing up
I made a video doing that and many tried to crucify me telling me my test was wrong. Even though the test you mention works and you will see parts of the coil not icing.
@@thehvachacker what was the argument against this test?
at 9:28 is that the plugged orifice in one of the liquid headers?
marino yes. From a different unit. It was from that unit that was frozen. I cut it open and found that covering the tiny hole
I don't use 407c personally but I get a lot of calls from other companies using them it seems like none of them work.
Always have pressures like there is a restriction and seems like the things make a hell of a lot of water
Dan Matz it’s probably because they don’t know what they are doing. 407c is the closest match to r22. The r22 txvs have 407c stamped on them as well. A lot of older libert equipment has 407c from the factory. The one thing I have heard is that the Trane 3-D scroll compressor done like 407c. There’s a bulletin on it.
I imagine that if you go txv... you yank out that header and pipes out 3/16 or there's a distributor kit that's modded in??
Alexander Figueroa it's a kit that has a bolt on distributor to the txv. You just cut the orifices out and braze on the distributor tubes.
oh at least there's a kit for it id go txv... saw a picture of the orifice replacement and sinks a hole in the pocket!! I'd go best bet the txv conversion costs a fraction but looks like there's some work to installing it... looks interesting to do.... i mostly do refrigeration and its captube or txv...
Alexander Figueroa yeah. It's not very difficult just takes time. They sale a short orifice header assembly replacement but I wouldn't go back with that. It's pretty much like a bunch of cap tubes for one coil. Not a good design. At leave with a txv you can adjust it and it try's to maintain constant superheat.
Thanks for answering... like he thermal cam its really worth every dollar ...
real cool thermal image video , which brand or make was that and did it assist you a lot on locating the restrictions or you use it for verifying what you suspecting could be!?
Hi Ulises, which flir are you using?
tung le FLIR one for iPhone
Isn't rotolock standard on a Trane ? I have never seen a Trane that didn't have rotolock.
I believe they did
Away with them awhile ago
@@UlisesPalacios Ok, didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
Those coils are junk, I heat the orifice with a mapp gas hand held torch while its running works 90% of the time
I never heard of people doing it while it's running I just changed one earlier today to a TXV kit.
I'll have to try that out next time thanks for the tip
Here u go again with your propaganda about Trane not being the most bestest :) Magnets...yes! This was like an Arnold Schwarzenegger movie for a second...epic. Lots of debris son. Enjoyed
Jon HVAC lol personally I really do like trane. They keep me busy haha. Thanks man.
Do not blend POE and Mineral oil together -MALPRACTICE - you will ruin compressor soon and will portly work -
William G ok. Mixing a little oil isn’t going to hurt anything. Look it up