In 2 stroke tuning the gap between the piston top and bottom side of head is called the "squish" (because we squish something like solder or clay in there to measure). Raising the compression by having a small squish gap can bring a motor alive but also needs higher octane fuel to avoid detonation, runs hotter etc. As an old 2 stroke tuner, I have a feeling a nitro is in my future ;) Lovin the vids brother!
@@gainsrc After our conversation at Lake Park I've just installed a sensored system in my ebuggy. XErun G3. Just now installed it. It's running in reverse and I only have the old style LED program card tho. Damn.
I have a REDS 721 Gen4, and I runs much better on 30% with a 0.1mm head shim added. Hot weather I use TS4 plug and 8.0 restrictor. Also the new carb from the 721 has awesome feel and mileage while being easy to tune. CARB SET CG3 GEN1 3.5CC S SERIES BUGGY/GT; SKU ER210146
@@rccoachwenger The team manager for reds down here in the southeast has said lots of good things about that new 3 needle carb.. Is this "the" Coach Wenger?
Got a buddy whose somewhat new to nitro yet really fast and runs this engine in his Associated with the weird 1 piece pipe. I don't know anything about Reds but I bought 2 Novarossis right before they went tits up after covid, which has hardly anything to do with Reds other than also being Italian lol. I've been running the SH PT21AO for most of the last year and it's been great at $170 w/ replacement pistons/sleeve/rods being only $60, but unfortunately they've been out of stock for the last several months, and I managed to crack my crankcase along one of the mounting ears. The engines, P/S/R's, and replacement crankcases are all out of stock, so I was considering one of these Reds 521s, but ended up getting a used Alpha Dragon 5 from a friend for $200 w/ 2.5 gallons on it. Running an old $65 TrackStar in the meantime (wish these were still available). Also, I'm still running my NB48 2.0 which I bought new in 2020. Been a great platform, and fortunately the 2.1 and the recently released 2.2 still share compatibility with ours. If you haven't snagged a 2.1 brake cam setup, I highly recommend it.
@@cbh148 I literally just replaced it yesterday.. too funny, It will be in the next video. All great engines BTW! I've definitely learned it's far more important to have a reliable engine/clutch setup than a top tier engine. The Reds 521s has been worth every penny just wish I would have figured out the shim thing sooner. Since I dropped down to .6ish gap and changed to 25% nitro this thing has really woken up. Now it's just a matter of how hot she's gonna get on the track this weekend in the FL heat.
So the observation I'm making, this is without having even broken in the Nova: Yes the engines are "designed differently" from O.S. engines, but they are European engines. IIRC, they don't even have access to 30% nitro anymore and have not for years and years and need some silly license to buy any fuel higher than 16% nitro. My REDS engine said *nothing* about fuel % to use only to "use 12% oil to break-in." My NOVA says it only runs 16%-25% nitro and they give a shim specifically for adding if you run 25%. I broke the REDS in on 30% and was trying to run it on 30% for the entire time I used it and I would say that the front bearing started leaking after about 2 quarts and I haven't used it since because I don't know how to get the bearings in and out of the engine without scratching up the inside of the crankcase. Now the REDS ran WONDERFULLY the day I broke it in and drove it up and down the street in front of the house. I put some after run oil in it and the next time I ran it, I ran it at the track and I have never been able to get that engine to idle or to just drive decently ever since break-in (especially after the front bearing started leaking which I know makes the engine run lean and you will never properly tune it once that occurs until you replace it but I'm talking about between the time of break-in to when the leak started). I got the oil-bath version so the break-in was pretty easy, short, and sweet. I pulled the plug after it died, don't currently remember what is in it now. I'm curious to see how the NOVA does, I have a WERKS pipe that is supposed to be good for 3-port engines and give them more top end. I got the NOVA B3R EVO on sale for like $280 or so. I keep thinking that I should continue using my Kyosho KE21SP engine, just pull the pull start off it, just to get more practice tuning and running on an engine that it isn't a huge loss if I accidentally kill it in my noob-ness. It just sounds disappointing on the track compared to the others because of the RPM pitch difference. I'm not sure the 21SP even gets 30k RPM. ...And I'm just now remembering while I type this that I have a SH engine that I could be using which is inexpensive to replace as well... Le sigh I myself am new to nitro and have been slowly learning and am still kinda bad at it. I don't know why I said all this stuff, maybe I just wanted to talk about it, but I think I'm attempting to be helpful and am probably not. Hope to get to see more running footage. One day I hope to make on-board videos like Ryan Lutz...one day...
@@CplVeers You win for the longest comment in the channel history 😁 I have 3 different nitro engines now and they all run/tune/perform differently. I think this is part of the addiction.. Its a never ending cycle of chasing the perfect setup and tune and I love it!! Part one of this series has a bunch of footage from my home track SS hobbies and the next video in the series will have more running footage on a proper sized track. Couple things that helped me with tuning early on was, when an engine won't run right you need to make the tuning window bigger. Easy ways to do so is going to a bigger venture, colder plug and following the suggested combustion gap nitro guidelines. .5/20% .6/25% .7/30% or just spend the money and buy an OS engine 😂 Stay tuned for the next one in the series ✌️
@@gainsrc So does the combustion gap directly translate between standard plug engines and turbo plug engines? I ask because I was running the KE21SP engine out of the box at 30% nitro. I never messed with head shimming but the gap is .74 unshimmed and then it was shimmed .3 for a gap of 1.04mm. I've been wanting to swap to 20% because that's the highest % nitro I can get from VP that has a dye in it (I like to be able to see my fuel in the tank and in the fuel lines). I never tried the Morgan's fuels because it never says what the oil % is on their fuels. I think I tried their basher fuel once and that was like 16% oil or something like that? All I know is that it made every engine that I put it in run just as badly as using Traxxas fuel does. I mention them because they use dyes and you use them iirc.
@@CplVeers if it's running fine don't change the shims. I would only make a shim adjustment if your having problems and you can't tune around your issue. Try running the 20% as is.. Also a 1mm combustion gap seems a bit large but every engine is going to be unique. As far as turbo vs non turbo plug it's a completely different button and plug size and shape. Not really sure why they call it a turbo.. Maybe I can do some digging and find out. The shim gap does correlate, but it's only a rough guideline if your having issues.
I think you are gonna be happy with the Nova. I got a Nova B3 (the gen 1 non-Evo) as my first race grade engine and that thing has power. It also consumes a fairly low amount of fuel and I can race a long time with a single tank. BUT: the break in was absolute hell. I never had an engine with that much pinch. Even after a whole liter of fuel it would still get stuck and jam the starter box... Only afte 2L it was finally broken in. I think they reduced the pinch on the Evo slightly to fix that issue. One thing though: if you run 25% nitro, use the standard Nova Off #5 glow plug, but if you run 16% get a Nova Off #4 plug! I had multiple flame outs with the #5 and inconsistent tuning, but the #4 runs absolutely perfect.
I myself, just purchased a used hb d819rs that came with the reds 521 sport. I'm having a terrible time tuning it. It was supposed to be freshly pinched and new ceramic bearings by drake. It has amazing top end power, but cant ease into or it flames out. If I'm snappy with the the throttle from idle to full open, i have better luck keeping it running. I was told by previous owner to only run the t3 plug. Also running sidewinder 30% 12% oil. So glad I found your video. I'm going to try a t4 or p4 plug and hope it helps. Also any chance you could do a video on the carb disassembly for this engine? Id like to at least put o rings in mine, if not a rebuild kit. Really appreciate the time and detail you put in this video. Thanks Jeff.
@@JeffLafary Glad the video helped. The 521 can be an absolute beast when tuned correctly. In the future I will definitely do a carb video. In the meantime google the spec sheet for it. It has a full disassembly diagram and part numbers for the carb 👍
@gainsrc thanks for the quick response. Do you think I'll have better luck with the t4 or p4 plug than t3 I'm currently running? Also do you think the %12 oil could be a bit much? I have looked over the diagram, I guess my main concern is pulling the rubber carb boot and low needle. Do I just loosen the set set screw, back the needle out, and slide the boot off? Thanks for any help. Really looking forward to a carb video.
@@JeffLafary I do think The oil content plays a pretty large role with this engine at Idle. However, the issue you're describing sounds like it's something else entirely. The recommended plug from Marco Rossi, the engineer of the engine, is a T4. Troubleshooting nitro issues through text is also very difficult. Take some time today Make a video with your phone showing exactly where your car settings are and showing exactly the issue that you're having. Also, I would make sure that your clutch is not locking up really early, because this will cause the issue that you're having. As I'm going to a heavier spring in the clutch could assist with your issue. Additionally, Pull the engine and ensure that you don't have anything hanging up on the drive line. It should spin completely free. Beyond that little bit of troubleshooting I think you might be on the right path of having some dirt in the carb. There are plenty of videos out there showing how to disassemble the carb.
Sorry I don't think I'll be able to make video today. I'm dealing with some health issues, but should definitely be able tomorrow. Is there a way I can send it to you directly? I've never made a RUclips video before
In 2 stroke tuning the gap between the piston top and bottom side of head is called the "squish" (because we squish something like solder or clay in there to measure). Raising the compression by having a small squish gap can bring a motor alive but also needs higher octane fuel to avoid detonation, runs hotter etc. As an old 2 stroke tuner, I have a feeling a nitro is in my future ;) Lovin the vids brother!
@@niz76 you are correct sir! And yes you need to get a nitro asap!
@@gainsrc After our conversation at Lake Park I've just installed a sensored system in my ebuggy. XErun G3. Just now installed it. It's running in reverse and I only have the old style LED program card tho. Damn.
@@niz76 As soon as I'm done racing, I'll message you
Thank you … for sharing….😎
@@RoryHollarTURTLERCRACING I have one more video coming in the series. So stay tuned!
Have to get me a few of those engines stands …😁🤣
@@RoryHollarTURTLERCRACING If you do, make sure that you let Kyle know that GainsRC sent you!
I have a REDS 721 Gen4, and I runs much better on 30% with a 0.1mm head shim added. Hot weather I use TS4 plug and 8.0 restrictor. Also the new carb from the 721 has awesome feel and mileage while being easy to tune. CARB SET CG3 GEN1 3.5CC S SERIES BUGGY/GT; SKU ER210146
@@rccoachwenger The team manager for reds down here in the southeast has said lots of good things about that new 3 needle carb.. Is this "the" Coach Wenger?
Got a buddy whose somewhat new to nitro yet really fast and runs this engine in his Associated with the weird 1 piece pipe. I don't know anything about Reds but I bought 2 Novarossis right before they went tits up after covid, which has hardly anything to do with Reds other than also being Italian lol.
I've been running the SH PT21AO for most of the last year and it's been great at $170 w/ replacement pistons/sleeve/rods being only $60, but unfortunately they've been out of stock for the last several months, and I managed to crack my crankcase along one of the mounting ears. The engines, P/S/R's, and replacement crankcases are all out of stock, so I was considering one of these Reds 521s, but ended up getting a used Alpha Dragon 5 from a friend for $200 w/ 2.5 gallons on it. Running an old $65 TrackStar in the meantime (wish these were still available).
Also, I'm still running my NB48 2.0 which I bought new in 2020. Been a great platform, and fortunately the 2.1 and the recently released 2.2 still share compatibility with ours. If you haven't snagged a 2.1 brake cam setup, I highly recommend it.
@@cbh148 I literally just replaced it yesterday.. too funny, It will be in the next video. All great engines BTW! I've definitely learned it's far more important to have a reliable engine/clutch setup than a top tier engine. The Reds 521s has been worth every penny just wish I would have figured out the shim thing sooner. Since I dropped down to .6ish gap and changed to 25% nitro this thing has really woken up. Now it's just a matter of how hot she's gonna get on the track this weekend in the FL heat.
So the observation I'm making, this is without having even broken in the Nova: Yes the engines are "designed differently" from O.S. engines, but they are European engines. IIRC, they don't even have access to 30% nitro anymore and have not for years and years and need some silly license to buy any fuel higher than 16% nitro. My REDS engine said *nothing* about fuel % to use only to "use 12% oil to break-in." My NOVA says it only runs 16%-25% nitro and they give a shim specifically for adding if you run 25%. I broke the REDS in on 30% and was trying to run it on 30% for the entire time I used it and I would say that the front bearing started leaking after about 2 quarts and I haven't used it since because I don't know how to get the bearings in and out of the engine without scratching up the inside of the crankcase. Now the REDS ran WONDERFULLY the day I broke it in and drove it up and down the street in front of the house. I put some after run oil in it and the next time I ran it, I ran it at the track and I have never been able to get that engine to idle or to just drive decently ever since break-in (especially after the front bearing started leaking which I know makes the engine run lean and you will never properly tune it once that occurs until you replace it but I'm talking about between the time of break-in to when the leak started). I got the oil-bath version so the break-in was pretty easy, short, and sweet. I pulled the plug after it died, don't currently remember what is in it now. I'm curious to see how the NOVA does, I have a WERKS pipe that is supposed to be good for 3-port engines and give them more top end. I got the NOVA B3R EVO on sale for like $280 or so.
I keep thinking that I should continue using my Kyosho KE21SP engine, just pull the pull start off it, just to get more practice tuning and running on an engine that it isn't a huge loss if I accidentally kill it in my noob-ness. It just sounds disappointing on the track compared to the others because of the RPM pitch difference. I'm not sure the 21SP even gets 30k RPM. ...And I'm just now remembering while I type this that I have a SH engine that I could be using which is inexpensive to replace as well... Le sigh
I myself am new to nitro and have been slowly learning and am still kinda bad at it. I don't know why I said all this stuff, maybe I just wanted to talk about it, but I think I'm attempting to be helpful and am probably not. Hope to get to see more running footage. One day I hope to make on-board videos like Ryan Lutz...one day...
@@CplVeers You win for the longest comment in the channel history 😁 I have 3 different nitro engines now and they all run/tune/perform differently. I think this is part of the addiction.. Its a never ending cycle of chasing the perfect setup and tune and I love it!! Part one of this series has a bunch of footage from my home track SS hobbies and the next video in the series will have more running footage on a proper sized track. Couple things that helped me with tuning early on was, when an engine won't run right you need to make the tuning window bigger. Easy ways to do so is going to a bigger venture, colder plug and following the suggested combustion gap nitro guidelines. .5/20% .6/25% .7/30% or just spend the money and buy an OS engine 😂 Stay tuned for the next one in the series ✌️
@@gainsrc So does the combustion gap directly translate between standard plug engines and turbo plug engines? I ask because I was running the KE21SP engine out of the box at 30% nitro. I never messed with head shimming but the gap is .74 unshimmed and then it was shimmed .3 for a gap of 1.04mm. I've been wanting to swap to 20% because that's the highest % nitro I can get from VP that has a dye in it (I like to be able to see my fuel in the tank and in the fuel lines). I never tried the Morgan's fuels because it never says what the oil % is on their fuels. I think I tried their basher fuel once and that was like 16% oil or something like that? All I know is that it made every engine that I put it in run just as badly as using Traxxas fuel does. I mention them because they use dyes and you use them iirc.
@@CplVeers if it's running fine don't change the shims. I would only make a shim adjustment if your having problems and you can't tune around your issue. Try running the 20% as is.. Also a 1mm combustion gap seems a bit large but every engine is going to be unique. As far as turbo vs non turbo plug it's a completely different button and plug size and shape. Not really sure why they call it a turbo.. Maybe I can do some digging and find out. The shim gap does correlate, but it's only a rough guideline if your having issues.
I think you are gonna be happy with the Nova. I got a Nova B3 (the gen 1 non-Evo) as my first race grade engine and that thing has power. It also consumes a fairly low amount of fuel and I can race a long time with a single tank.
BUT: the break in was absolute hell. I never had an engine with that much pinch. Even after a whole liter of fuel it would still get stuck and jam the starter box... Only afte 2L it was finally broken in.
I think they reduced the pinch on the Evo slightly to fix that issue. One thing though: if you run 25% nitro, use the standard Nova Off #5 glow plug, but if you run 16% get a Nova Off #4 plug! I had multiple flame outs with the #5 and inconsistent tuning, but the #4 runs absolutely perfect.
I myself, just purchased a used hb d819rs that came with the reds 521 sport. I'm having a terrible time tuning it. It was supposed to be freshly pinched and new ceramic bearings by drake. It has amazing top end power, but cant ease into or it flames out. If I'm snappy with the the throttle from idle to full open, i have better luck keeping it running. I was told by previous owner to only run the t3 plug. Also running sidewinder 30% 12% oil. So glad I found your video. I'm going to try a t4 or p4 plug and hope it helps. Also any chance you could do a video on the carb disassembly for this engine? Id like to at least put o rings in mine, if not a rebuild kit. Really appreciate the time and detail you put in this video.
Thanks Jeff.
@@JeffLafary Glad the video helped. The 521 can be an absolute beast when tuned correctly. In the future I will definitely do a carb video. In the meantime google the spec sheet for it. It has a full disassembly diagram and part numbers for the carb 👍
@gainsrc thanks for the quick response. Do you think I'll have better luck with the t4 or p4 plug than t3 I'm currently running? Also do you think the %12 oil could be a bit much? I have looked over the diagram, I guess my main concern is pulling the rubber carb boot and low needle. Do I just loosen the set set screw, back the needle out, and slide the boot off? Thanks for any help. Really looking forward to a carb video.
@@JeffLafary I do think The oil content plays a pretty large role with this engine at Idle. However, the issue you're describing sounds like it's something else entirely. The recommended plug from Marco Rossi, the engineer of the engine, is a T4. Troubleshooting nitro issues through text is also very difficult. Take some time today Make a video with your phone showing exactly where your car settings are and showing exactly the issue that you're having. Also, I would make sure that your clutch is not locking up really early, because this will cause the issue that you're having. As I'm going to a heavier spring in the clutch could assist with your issue. Additionally, Pull the engine and ensure that you don't have anything hanging up on the drive line. It should spin completely free. Beyond that little bit of troubleshooting I think you might be on the right path of having some dirt in the carb. There are plenty of videos out there showing how to disassemble the carb.
Sorry I don't think I'll be able to make video today. I'm dealing with some health issues, but should definitely be able tomorrow. Is there a way I can send it to you directly? I've never made a RUclips video before
@@JeffLafary Upload it to your RUclips channel, but keep it private. My email is listed in the channel description. Send me the link to it.
i just got a gen 1 521 GTS with a 2113, hope its good
@@blameusa7082 I'm sure it will be perfectly fine. Just make sure you use a P4 or a T4 plug in it. Engine is the best bang for the buck in my opinion!
Where did you get that engine stand at? Looks like you can screw the motor to it?
@@michaelphillips9752 Cenflorc on facebook.
Thank you!
Be sure that your reds engine is properly shimed for 25/30% and not for 16% EU
@@stankovic7150 as soon as I went to a .61 combustion gap everything has been beautiful! Engine is making incredible power now.
This one vs 721 for beginner ?
@@kringtheking2657 for the price difference.. 521 all day!