The heavy oil deposit you found under the ratchet wheel is usually an indication that the mainspring barrel has too much sideshake and possibly endshake too. This is caused by the holes they run in on the barrel bridge and dial plate becoming slightly enlarged. I think you will find the barrel had a lot of wobble (it should have nearly none). Adding extra oil like you saw will not fix the problem but sadly is often seen. The way to fix this is to close the holes that the barrel runs on. There is a great video on how to do it on the Chronoglide RUclips channel. It is called hammertime. If you don’t fix this problem, the watch will run with very low amplitude, if it runs at all. A good test for excessive barrel shake is with the barrel in the movement and the barrel bridge screwed down, turn a pointed piece of pegwood into the barrel arbour screw hole. The pegwood will thread into the hole and grip the arbour. You can now use the pegwood as a handle to pull up to see endshake and move it sideways to inspect sideshake. There should be very little play visible. If you are unsure if there’s too much shake on the barrel, just post a video of the test abi e and I’ll let you know.
Thank you for that I’ve had a look and your right I’m going to be doing a little vidtt see I of hammer time I’ve watch chroniglide RUclips hammer time thank you again
You asked in this video how the footage from using two cameras is. I like it and it is a definite improvement. You’ve done a much better job of keeping everything in frame and in focus. Occasionally the focus on a part you are showing is a little out of focus, like showing the pivots of some wheels, but it’s still ok. I can see the improvement in your handling of tools and parts as well.
That spring in the keyless works that jumped away at about 27:45 can be tricky to control, even if you hold it down whilst disengaging and removing it. Whilst learning, a good safety precaution here is to put the whole movement holder and movement into a sandwich size ziplock bag and disengage and free the spring through the plastic. Once it’s loose and can’t fly away, take the lot out of the bag again.
I’ve not yet watched further than you asking what the AS logo and the number 984 means. The AS logo is the logo for a Swiss watch movement manufacturer called A. Schild. You will find their movements in many watches. The 984 means this watch uses the A. Schild calibre 984 movement. You didn’t ask about the little minute markers near 12 o’clock on the dial plate are, but it’s worth knowing. Since A. Schild produced movements for other watch houses, they didn’t fit case parts, such as dials and hands. So, to test that a movement was running within the accuracy specifications, they fitted temporary hands and used those minute markers to check accuracy. It is very common for both ratchet and crown wheel screws to have left hand threads (clockwise to loosen them). Well done for not snapping the heads of either screw, this catches the unwary by surprise very often!
Hey thank you so much I really appreciate your input it’s amazing what I learn from the knowledge you and other people have I really do appreciate it thank you so much
@@watchwhisper You are most welcome. Every watchmaker was once a beginner and I firmly believe in sharing the knowledge. The sooner the old fashioned secrecy regarding watchmaking is eradicated, the better. Information sharing regarding watchmaking has improved very significantly, but there is still room for improvement, there are still those who don’t want this stuff discussed freely in the public domain. I haven’t finished this video of yours yet, my day got very busy. If I have any more advice or comments to help you, I’ll leave them below. If you ever have a question for me, just reply to a comment of mine here on your channel and I’ll get back to you.
AS is the maker A.Schild (very good) and the numbers are the calibre and other numbers will be the serial number. I'm a watch tinker to sir I've liked and subed btw your doing great
At 23:16 in the video where you show the underside of the barrel bridge, you can see wear marks where the mainspring barrel has dragged against the bridge. This is a clear indication that my suspicion of excessive sideshake and possibly endshake of the barrel arbour in the holes of the barrel bridge and dial plate was correct. You need to close those holes to the correct size. The Chronoglide RUclips video called hammer time will guide you through the process. It isn’t difficult. You need a staking set and a smoothing broach to do it.
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The part you remove 25:28 is called the cover plate and integrated detent spring.
The heavy oil deposit you found under the ratchet wheel is usually an indication that the mainspring barrel has too much sideshake and possibly endshake too.
This is caused by the holes they run in on the barrel bridge and dial plate becoming slightly enlarged.
I think you will find the barrel had a lot of wobble (it should have nearly none).
Adding extra oil like you saw will not fix the problem but sadly is often seen.
The way to fix this is to close the holes that the barrel runs on. There is a great video on how to do it on the Chronoglide RUclips channel. It is called hammertime.
If you don’t fix this problem, the watch will run with very low amplitude, if it runs at all.
A good test for excessive barrel shake is with the barrel in the movement and the barrel bridge screwed down, turn a pointed piece of pegwood into the barrel arbour screw hole. The pegwood will thread into the hole and grip the arbour.
You can now use the pegwood as a handle to pull up to see endshake and move it sideways to inspect sideshake. There should be very little play visible.
If you are unsure if there’s too much shake on the barrel, just post a video of the test abi e and I’ll let you know.
Thank you for that I’ve had a look and your right I’m going to be doing a little vidtt see I of hammer time I’ve watch chroniglide RUclips hammer time thank you again
You asked in this video how the footage from using two cameras is.
I like it and it is a definite improvement. You’ve done a much better job of keeping everything in frame and in focus. Occasionally the focus on a part you are showing is a little out of focus, like showing the pivots of some wheels, but it’s still ok.
I can see the improvement in your handling of tools and parts as well.
That spring in the keyless works that jumped away at about 27:45 can be tricky to control, even if you hold it down whilst disengaging and removing it.
Whilst learning, a good safety precaution here is to put the whole movement holder and movement into a sandwich size ziplock bag and disengage and free the spring through the plastic. Once it’s loose and can’t fly away, take the lot out of the bag again.
That’s a good idea thank you for that
I’ve not yet watched further than you asking what the AS logo and the number 984 means.
The AS logo is the logo for a Swiss watch movement manufacturer called A. Schild.
You will find their movements in many watches.
The 984 means this watch uses the A. Schild calibre 984 movement.
You didn’t ask about the little minute markers near 12 o’clock on the dial plate are, but it’s worth knowing.
Since A. Schild produced movements for other watch houses, they didn’t fit case parts, such as dials and hands. So, to test that a movement was running within the accuracy specifications, they fitted temporary hands and used those minute markers to check accuracy.
It is very common for both ratchet and crown wheel screws to have left hand threads (clockwise to loosen them). Well done for not snapping the heads of either screw, this catches the unwary by surprise very often!
Hey thank you so much I really appreciate your input it’s amazing what I learn from the knowledge you and other people have I really do appreciate it thank you so much
@@watchwhisper You are most welcome. Every watchmaker was once a beginner and I firmly believe in sharing the knowledge. The sooner the old fashioned secrecy regarding watchmaking is eradicated, the better.
Information sharing regarding watchmaking has improved very significantly, but there is still room for improvement, there are still those who don’t want this stuff discussed freely in the public domain.
I haven’t finished this video of yours yet, my day got very busy. If I have any more advice or comments to help you, I’ll leave them below.
If you ever have a question for me, just reply to a comment of mine here on your channel and I’ll get back to you.
AS is the maker A.Schild (very good) and the numbers are the calibre and other numbers will be the serial number. I'm a watch tinker to sir I've liked and subed btw your doing great
Thank you
At 23:16 in the video where you show the underside of the barrel bridge, you can see wear marks where the mainspring barrel has dragged against the bridge.
This is a clear indication that my suspicion of excessive sideshake and possibly endshake of the barrel arbour in the holes of the barrel bridge and dial plate was correct.
You need to close those holes to the correct size. The Chronoglide RUclips video called hammer time will guide you through the process.
It isn’t difficult. You need a staking set and a smoothing broach to do it.
Thank you that means so much and yeh I watch chronoglide RUclips