I don’t find the attention to detail boring at all. Listening to your dulcet toned voice and watching you work carefully and methodically makes me feel calm, and I try to take that attitude to my own builds. I also refer other new builders here to try to show them how being patient pays off. Thank you as always Lyle
It's also very important to take time out to have a sandwich. He's done that more than once. It might be one of the secret tricks to quality amp repair.
The boring stuff is what makes us better amp techs, I as well as everyone else appreciate your attention to detail and it reflects in my work. Thanks again Lyle.
That level of attention to detail is what separates the men from the boys… I had a very special ‘65 Princeton built for me, and the level of attention to detail is definitely on par with your work. I always enjoy your videos, but I do look forward to amps that are close to my heart such as this.
I'm older than dirt and I love to play and sing the electric blues and I just had to take a moment to thank you for the beautiful way you de-mystify and teach the "right" way to fix and maintain, etc. You, dear sir, are a master with heart and I suspect if you were so inclined, your music would be dangerous... Thank you thank you thank you
When you were speaking about a lot of "boring" things that go along with making a great amp it brought to mind that it doesnt just stop at the amp. That extends on to making records. Im a recording/mix engineer by trade and there are a looooooot of "boring" things that we have to do day in and day out to make a great record. Thats the cost of greatness I suppose. I'd pay it every time.
This morning I found a way to use an expander so I don't have to manually duck all my breath noises by about 8dB in every video. It has been very time-consuming to do. I feel you man.
@@PsionicAudio You can also do this with a gate (same concept) and just low-pass the side-chain so that it doesn't get activated by high frequency breathy noises.
@@PsionicAudio Ok, alternatively if you breath is in a very narrow frequency spectrum then you can lightly duck it with the reverse concept: Have a fast attack, fast release compresor set at your breath peak frequency. It's less foolproof, and more error prone, though.
Ah! I just got a solder sucker like that one. Impressive build and works well but yes, oddly small. I’ll have to search that brand and look for the larger one. We are lucky to have your videos and knowledge being shared like this. Thank you again 👍
I like to use bits of old credit cards cut into strips for scraping old flux, less likely to scratch anything with a plastic scraper, and you can easily make the edge sharp again by just trimming a bit off
excellent as per. Mostly, I watch your vids on my phone, and sometimes on my pc. probably a 70/30 thing. Today I watched on my pc and suddenly realised I have never watched one on full screen... holy moly! Immersive stuff and I was riveted! ha! Super recommend the full screen experience folks!! ;))
I am grateful that you share your knowledge because I learn and it gives me confidence for the occasional solder jobs that I do. Explaining your thinking and the extra steps you go through to get the best results is really eye opening. I am sure it all the camera work and microphones and lighting slow you down, not to mention the video editing, but there really is nothing else like this for people who want to learn about amps.
One trick I use, and perhaps it’s just me being lazy, is that I will put a component across some eyelets or turrets, and then take a sharpie and put a dot on the leads to know where to bend them. I typically just use a needle nose to bend them. Isoproprol cleans up the dots later. Seems to speed up my workflow.
Super informative video, thanks for keeping so much of the work in the video without skipping ahead. Learned at least 4 new tips I'm going to use, like that solder wrap trick. Brilliant!
Ah my favorite amp....Princeton Reverb....A few years ago I finally got one , Reissue 65 Princeton Reverb...it was the the one with a 1x12 Cannabis Rex speaker from Eminence. No problems yet, but if I ever have problems I will call you....thanks
I wasn't aware engineer made a larger version that still uses the silicone tube. I have the same complaint, love the product but wish it had more umph!
Ha! That's the same solder sucker I tried to send you on 2021. Glad you finally got one. I just replaced my first can cap... what a chore. In order to get most of the old solder off, I used a tiny wire wheel on my Dremel. Because the can was pushed way into the corner of the chassis, it was really hard to work on. But I got it done! You make it look easy ;)
The problem with me watching your videos is that I get so drawn in by the level of knowledge and great work that I forget to like the video 😕 I will better myself 😀
You’re an absolute master Lyle. It’s kinda cool that we have the same tastes in parts. From those Vishsay PR series to the Panasonic MO. Although I think some other company is now making those baby blue MO.
Thanks for sharing the process of replacing the can cap. I have a 70s Vibrochamp with the original can cap and found this very informative. Thanks Lyle and I love the channel brother man.
Try replacing or building with SMD parts! I've been soldering for close to sixty years, but in the past few years I've really struggled with some of these surface mount parts that are nearly impossible to see. It's like trying to neatly solder a speck of dust. Don't breathe too deeply around them, you may inhale a few!
I have a 64 that someone put a 40/20/20 and there's no drop resistor between the delta lug and the B lug (there is no B lug). I'm working on restoring it with a proper 20x4 450, an 18k 2 watt NOS AB to go between the lugs, and replacing the resistors on the board that you replaced here, an 18k 2 watt and a 1k 1 watt. How did they get way with a 40/20/20 and no 18k reistor between the lugs?
Hello 👋 Lyle. I have a question.....someone put a 20uf 150v cap in my ab763 bias circuit....is that too high of a voltage rating? Also didn't understand why they lowered the uf value 🤔
12:00 The calculations required to build a great civilization may have been boring but were at least less tedious if the engineer knew properly how to use a slide rule.
On a previous video, I remember that you aren't fond of the CE Can caps. Has CE worked out their problems? Could the separate discreet caps be installed on terminal straps soldered to the chassis instead?
Please explain how a resistor can have both a voltage and wattage rating unless it's a insulation rating of the body insulation rather than voltage drop.
Originally the amp would have have a 25uF 50V. Someone changed it to 100uF 50V. I chose 50uF for optimal filtering/rise time for bias and 100V because 50V doesn’t give enough margin with the expected raw bias, particularly if any resistor in that circuit changes value.
The original bias cap value was probably 50uF, which is sufficient. And it can’t hurt to go up in voltage rating from 50v to 100v, which might help a bit with cap longevity.
That twisting the solder trick for chassis grounds is awesome! Get a fancy coffee on me.
I don’t find the attention to detail boring at all. Listening to your dulcet toned voice and watching you work carefully and methodically makes me feel calm, and I try to take that attitude to my own builds. I also refer other new builders here to try to show them how being patient pays off. Thank you as always Lyle
It's also very important to take time out to have a sandwich. He's done that more than once. It might be one of the secret tricks to quality amp repair.
The boring stuff is what makes us better amp techs, I as well as everyone else appreciate your attention to detail and it reflects in my work. Thanks again Lyle.
The 'boring' attention to detail is what makes nearly all kinds of work a cut above.
That lead bender just gave me more excitement than I’m comfortable admitting. Never saw one before.
The devil is in the "boring" details. Patience is a virtue. Love your work.
countless tiny details = coolest amp, check, got it!
It the Zen part of the job. Inner Peace thru a hot soldering iron . So it is Shinsho .
That level of attention to detail is what separates the men from the boys…
I had a very special ‘65 Princeton built for me, and the level of attention to detail is definitely on par with your work.
I always enjoy your videos, but I do look forward to amps that are close to my heart such as this.
Your attention to detail is refreshing.
I'm older than dirt and I love to play and sing the electric blues and I just had to take
a moment to thank you for the beautiful way you de-mystify and teach the "right" way
to fix and maintain, etc. You, dear sir, are a master with heart and I suspect if you were
so inclined, your music would be dangerous... Thank you thank you thank you
When you were speaking about a lot of "boring" things that go along with making a great amp it brought to mind that it doesnt just stop at the amp. That extends on to making records. Im a recording/mix engineer by trade and there are a looooooot of "boring" things that we have to do day in and day out to make a great record. Thats the cost of greatness I suppose. I'd pay it every time.
This morning I found a way to use an expander so I don't have to manually duck all my breath noises by about 8dB in every video. It has been very time-consuming to do. I feel you man.
@@PsionicAudio You can also do this with a gate (same concept) and just low-pass the side-chain so that it doesn't get activated by high frequency breathy noises.
@@PsionicAudio Ok, alternatively if you breath is in a very narrow frequency spectrum then you can lightly duck it with the reverse concept: Have a fast attack, fast release compresor set at your breath peak frequency. It's less foolproof, and more error prone, though.
@@PsionicAudio Yeah thats just the tip of the iceberg really lol. However 30% of the time is fun work which makes the other 70% worthwhile.
Ah! I just got a solder sucker like that one. Impressive build and works well but yes, oddly small. I’ll have to search that brand and look for the larger one. We are lucky to have your videos and knowledge being shared like this. Thank you again 👍
New and improved video style, duly noted and much appreciated.
Great attention to detail and exceptionally clean work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I like to use bits of old credit cards cut into strips for scraping old flux, less likely to scratch anything with a plastic scraper, and you can easily make the edge sharp again by just trimming a bit off
excellent as per. Mostly, I watch your vids on my phone, and sometimes on my pc. probably a 70/30 thing. Today I watched on my pc and suddenly realised I have never watched one on full screen... holy moly! Immersive stuff and I was riveted! ha! Super recommend the full screen experience folks!! ;))
Love your videos thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge I’m a novice amp tech wanna be . I’m still learning and totally enjoy these videos
I am grateful that you share your knowledge because I learn and it gives me confidence for the occasional solder jobs that I do. Explaining your thinking and the extra steps you go through to get the best results is really eye opening. I am sure it all the camera work and microphones and lighting slow you down, not to mention the video editing, but there really is nothing else like this for people who want to learn about amps.
You are the reason this sometimes boring work more interesting ... I typically watch the whole video
One trick I use, and perhaps it’s just me being lazy, is that I will put a component across some eyelets or turrets, and then take a sharpie and put a dot on the leads to know where to bend them. I typically just use a needle nose to bend them. Isoproprol cleans up the dots later. Seems to speed up my workflow.
Super informative video, thanks for keeping so much of the work in the video without skipping ahead. Learned at least 4 new tips I'm going to use, like that solder wrap trick. Brilliant!
Zen and the Art of Flux Removal
Ah my favorite amp....Princeton Reverb....A few years ago I finally got one , Reissue 65 Princeton Reverb...it was the the one with a 1x12 Cannabis Rex speaker from Eminence. No problems yet, but if I ever have problems I will call you....thanks
Didn't want this one to stop👍
I wasn't aware engineer made a larger version that still uses the silicone tube. I have the same complaint, love the product but wish it had more umph!
Fantastic work as always Lyle. I learn so much from every video.
Ha! That's the same solder sucker I tried to send you on 2021. Glad you finally got one.
I just replaced my first can cap... what a chore. In order to get most of the old solder off, I used a tiny wire wheel on my Dremel. Because the can was pushed way into the corner of the chassis, it was really hard to work on. But I got it done!
You make it look easy ;)
Craftsmanship involves ensuring details that no one will ever see are taken care of
Great video! Seeing the actual work is very interesting and informative. Thank you!
Btw thanks, this will help me with the restoration.
Love your videos. Your voice is great to listen to and creates a very zen experience while watching you work. Which is awesome work btw!
what a great video! Just great!
The problem with me watching your videos is that I get so drawn in by the level of knowledge and great work that I forget to like the video 😕 I will better myself 😀
Nothing boring about it at all mate.
You’re an absolute master Lyle. It’s kinda cool that we have the same tastes in parts. From those Vishsay PR series to the Panasonic MO. Although I think some other company is now making those baby blue MO.
Thanks for sharing the process of replacing the can cap. I have a 70s Vibrochamp with the original can cap and found this very informative. Thanks Lyle and I love the channel brother man.
Nice job on the soldering! I used to be able to solder like that but my hands shake so badly that I just can't get it that neat anymore.
Try replacing or building with SMD parts! I've been soldering for close to sixty years, but in the past few years I've really struggled with some of these surface mount parts that are nearly impossible to see. It's like trying to neatly solder a speck of dust. Don't breathe too deeply around them, you may inhale a few!
I have the same solder sucker! I have been validated lol
I have that engineer solder sucker. It’s amazing but it’s small even on PCBs for an amp it must need 2-3 goes an eyelet.
Boredom is cool if it makes amps sound good 🙂
Thanks!
Definitely cool and not boring as your subscriber count depicts. What kind of sandwich did you have?
I have a 64 that someone put a 40/20/20 and there's no drop resistor between the delta lug and the B lug (there is no B lug). I'm working on restoring it with a proper 20x4 450, an 18k 2 watt NOS AB to go between the lugs, and replacing the resistors on the board that you replaced here, an 18k 2 watt and a 1k 1 watt. How did they get way with a 40/20/20 and no 18k reistor between the lugs?
Hello 👋 Lyle. I have a question.....someone put a 20uf 150v cap in my ab763 bias circuit....is that too high of a voltage rating? Also didn't understand why they lowered the uf value 🤔
12:00 The calculations required to build a great civilization may have been boring but were at least less tedious if the engineer knew properly how to use a slide rule.
On a previous video, I remember that you aren't fond of the CE Can caps. Has CE worked out their problems?
Could the separate discreet caps be installed on terminal straps soldered to the chassis instead?
I'd also like to know.
Same here. Would like to know what changed your mind on the CE 20/20/20/20uF 475v.
Why don’t you add an adjustable bias pot ?
#likeasturgeon
What value did you use to replace the bias cap?
Please explain how a resistor can have both a voltage and wattage rating unless it's a insulation rating of the body insulation rather than voltage drop.
Of course I meant the operating voltage rating. Thank you so much for keeping youtube comments so awesome.
@@PsionicAudio Thanks for making these videos man, they are a treasure and very informative!
Solder sucker for 90% of solder and braid for remainder?
Pretty much.
Hey there Lyle, Did I miss something when you replaced the bias cap? You removed a 100mfd 50vdc cap and replaced it with a 50mfd 100vdc cap.
I noticed that too. Since the previous bias cap wasn't original to the amp, perhaps the schematic calls for 50uF.
Originally the amp would have have a 25uF 50V. Someone changed it to 100uF 50V. I chose 50uF for optimal filtering/rise time for bias and 100V because 50V doesn’t give enough margin with the expected raw bias, particularly if any resistor in that circuit changes value.
The original bias cap value was probably 50uF, which is sufficient. And it can’t hurt to go up in voltage rating from 50v to 100v, which might help a bit with cap longevity.
More filtering on the bias supply helps with noise when you have bias vary tremolo.
Would you share where you sourced the solder sucker?
It’s the Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker. I’ve got one. It’s well built and easy to use.
Thanks guys. I appreciate it.
Cut the braid to a point and add flux to get the solder out the eyelet
This braid has flux built in.
Well it's nor boring watching the boring detail clean up.