Cool. It’s pretty amazing how long they kept that same basic construction. Mine is quite a bit older. I just knocked off the rust and put it back together to start using it.
Thanks!! And awesome about getting yours back up and running, did you put it on RUclips? Yeah my dad and uncle both had this same saw and it operated for years. When I moved to my current location I could afford a brand new saw and jumped at the chance to buy this one when it popped up on Craigslist. Thanks for watching :-)
I appreciate your level of cleanliness and attention to detail. Any chance you could provide me with the model # of your saw? I have the 315.228390 I bought new in the late 90's I think and it has what appears to be the same trunion as yours but mine does not have the side cover that has the other half of the vacuum hose attachment. That one part would be the single greatest improvement I could make. Thank you.
ANGLE PROBLEM: This is due to the right wall deflection and the lead screw is not well lubricated. The right wall is very weak and must be reinforced. Again DO NOT Wood for this. You will need some plate steel .1785-.250" thick. This will make a sandwich of the right wall around the adjuster area. Pay close attention to the blade at 45" when installing the inner parts so that the blade does not contact the metal. You will need: One 1875”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel One .1875”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel Two Horizontally mounted, ¾” x 18.75” Steel L right angle bars. PC& Epoxy 10 Minute no sag epoxy Rubber cloves. RIGHT SIDE DEFLECTS A LOT WHEN ADJUSTING BLADE ANGLE. Entire right side will need reinforcement using a Large outer .1875”Th x 18.875W x 10.75”H Plate Steel, and an inner assembly of; .1875”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel and two horizontal ¾” x 18.875” long Steel L right angle bars. a) Remove angle shaft. b) Drill 1.0 -1.5”: holes in both plates to allow angle adjusting shaft to pass through. Smaller is better. Also drill matching shaft mounting holes. c) Align holes in both plates and Layout in two concentric rings of eight around and centered on the shaft and a hole at each corner. d) Drill 5/32” Piolet holes into both flat sheets. e) Layout hole spacing for 6 equally spaced holes into the Steel L right angle bars at a 45° angle into the 90° angle. Drill from inside the angle outward. f) Drill #7 holes and Tap holes to ¼-20, of inner plate in two concentric rings of eight around and centered on the shaft and a hole at each corner. g) Drill #7and Tap ¼-20 equally spaced holes into the Steel L right angle bars at a 45° angle into the 90° angle. h) Drill /enlarge outer plate holes to ¼”. i) Assemble inner and outer plates and Steel L right angle bars. Check for interferences with trunnion and blade at all angles. Make adjustments as needed. Where outer plate does not contact inner plate use ¼-20 - 3/8”” Long bolts and Grade 8 Nyloc nuts with ¼” Grade 8 washers. j) Clamp the plates in place in place to each other sandwich style using ¼-20 - ½” Long bolts with red Loctite. When all bolts are inserted, torque the bolts. Max Torque is 12.0 Ft. lbs. k) Weld L right angle bars to flat inner plate. l) Epoxy all nuts in place with PC7 m) Reinforce the Angle Pointer with K&S 1/2" brass tubing. Encase the pointer in epoxy and slide tubing over it. No sag 10 minute epoxy works well for this. Epoxy Putty does not. This is the only way you will get consistent repeatable angles without measuring once it is calibrated.
Cool. It’s pretty amazing how long they kept that same basic construction. Mine is quite a bit older. I just knocked off the rust and put it back together to start using it.
Thanks!! And awesome about getting yours back up and running, did you put it on RUclips?
Yeah my dad and uncle both had this same saw and it operated for years. When I moved to my current location I could afford a brand new saw and jumped at the chance to buy this one when it popped up on Craigslist. Thanks for watching :-)
I did a super sped up version a few years ago.
What is the model number of your table saw? Have not seen a saw dust shroud like the one on your saw.
excelente!, en 23 min mostraste lo que eh tratado de hacer con mi sierra craftsman las ultimas 4 semanas 😅
I appreciate your level of cleanliness and attention to detail.
Any chance you could provide me with the model # of your saw? I have the 315.228390 I bought new in the late 90's I think and it has what appears to be the same trunion as yours but mine does not have the side cover that has the other half of the vacuum hose attachment. That one part would be the single greatest improvement I could make. Thank you.
ANGLE PROBLEM:
This is due to the right wall deflection and the lead screw is not well lubricated. The right wall is very weak and must be reinforced. Again DO NOT Wood for this. You will need some plate steel .1785-.250" thick. This will make a sandwich of the right wall around the adjuster area. Pay close attention to the blade at 45" when installing the inner parts so that the blade does not contact the metal.
You will need:
One 1875”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel
One .1875”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel
Two Horizontally mounted, ¾” x 18.75” Steel L right angle bars. PC& Epoxy
10 Minute no sag epoxy
Rubber cloves.
RIGHT SIDE DEFLECTS A LOT WHEN ADJUSTING BLADE ANGLE. Entire right side will need reinforcement using a Large outer .1875”Th x 18.875W x 10.75”H Plate Steel, and an inner assembly of; .1875”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel and two horizontal ¾” x 18.875” long Steel L right angle bars.
a) Remove angle shaft.
b) Drill 1.0 -1.5”: holes in both plates to allow angle adjusting shaft to pass through. Smaller is better. Also drill matching shaft mounting holes.
c) Align holes in both plates and Layout in two concentric rings of eight around and centered on the shaft and a hole at each corner.
d) Drill 5/32” Piolet holes into both flat sheets.
e) Layout hole spacing for 6 equally spaced holes into the Steel L right angle bars at a 45° angle into the 90° angle. Drill from inside the angle outward.
f) Drill #7 holes and Tap holes to ¼-20, of inner plate in two concentric rings of eight around and centered on the shaft and a hole at each corner.
g) Drill #7and Tap ¼-20 equally spaced holes into the Steel L right angle bars at a 45° angle into the 90° angle.
h) Drill /enlarge outer plate holes to ¼”.
i) Assemble inner and outer plates and Steel L right angle bars. Check for interferences with trunnion and blade at all angles. Make adjustments as needed. Where outer plate does not contact inner plate use ¼-20 - 3/8”” Long bolts and Grade 8 Nyloc nuts with ¼” Grade 8 washers.
j) Clamp the plates in place in place to each other sandwich style using ¼-20 - ½” Long bolts with red Loctite. When all bolts are inserted, torque the bolts. Max Torque is 12.0 Ft. lbs.
k) Weld L right angle bars to flat inner plate.
l) Epoxy all nuts in place with PC7
m) Reinforce the Angle Pointer with K&S 1/2" brass tubing. Encase the pointer in epoxy and slide tubing over it. No sag 10 minute epoxy works well for this. Epoxy Putty does not.
This is the only way you will get consistent repeatable angles without measuring once it is calibrated.
This is a 315 saw, correct? Better than the 113s?