Just like any other stock vehicle these units are simply not for aggressive rock crawling...they just are not designed for it. I am on my 2nd Hunterworks belt with stock clutch, changed out the first belt as a preventative measure at 5,000 KM's now up to 3,000 KM's on this one and still with the same stock clutch it came with (Figure replace this clutch in the spring after plow season) They can last easily if driven in the way they were designed for. I even have 30" tires and use it as a plow in winter. Thanks for the PSA more people need to hear the message.
im gonna totally jinx myself right now.....bought new 18 ranger, one hunter belt, over 10,000 miles on the machine. Never had the clutch off yet. Cleaned it once. Not sure how people tear this shit up. I dont rock crawl though....lol
When you say weaker spring, are you refering to the starting rate / or the finsh rate of the primary spring. Or both rates? Please elaborate and thank you in advace.
@Hunterworks OK thanks, I've put together some kits in the past for rock crawling specific applications. The most recent was for an xp1000 4 seat with 32" tires. Used some heavy weights out of a ranger application with the tips cut down to length to match xp1000 stock weights, an epi 40/260 primary spring, and a 52 straight helix with a stiff epi pink primary spring. It worked excellent. But wondering if it could be better by using an over all softer primary spring. Something around a 40/150 rate. Because if you loaded it up really really hard on an obstacle in moab you'd still slip the belt a little. But over all night and day better than anything else I've previously tested.
If you mean can a clutch kit cause you to burn belts with a plow, I would say for the same reasons, if you pushing some snow that will not move constantly and riding the clutch if you will and have a kit for larger tires then yes it can be the same way. Main take away is the "riding" of the clutch is bad
Just like any other stock vehicle these units are simply not for aggressive rock crawling...they just are not designed for it. I am on my 2nd Hunterworks belt with stock clutch, changed out the first belt as a preventative measure at 5,000 KM's now up to 3,000 KM's on this one and still with the same stock clutch it came with (Figure replace this clutch in the spring after plow season) They can last easily if driven in the way they were designed for. I even have 30" tires and use it as a plow in winter. Thanks for the PSA more people need to hear the message.
Good explanation, thank you.
im gonna totally jinx myself right now.....bought new 18 ranger, one hunter belt, over 10,000 miles on the machine. Never had the clutch off yet. Cleaned it once. Not sure how people tear this shit up. I dont rock crawl though....lol
Well you gotta keep in mind is all I hear is from folks with issues
We need a gear on gear to just "get us going" on these belt drive sxs. Toyota has this on their belt drive transmissions.
Well explained.
Does this rational exclude the duraclutch since it is always engaged with the belt?
Not really, it has clutch packs that will burn
DURACLUTCH is the best for rock crawling.
When you say weaker spring, are you refering to the starting rate / or the finsh rate of the primary spring. Or both rates? Please elaborate and thank you in advace.
In general but starting
@Hunterworks OK thanks, I've put together some kits in the past for rock crawling specific applications. The most recent was for an xp1000 4 seat with 32" tires. Used some heavy weights out of a ranger application with the tips cut down to length to match xp1000 stock weights, an epi 40/260 primary spring, and a 52 straight helix with a stiff epi pink primary spring. It worked excellent. But wondering if it could be better by using an over all softer primary spring. Something around a 40/150 rate. Because if you loaded it up really really hard on an obstacle in moab you'd still slip the belt a little. But over all night and day better than anything else I've previously tested.
Plowing snow be the same as rock crawling?
If you mean can a clutch kit cause you to burn belts with a plow, I would say for the same reasons, if you pushing some snow that will not move constantly and riding the clutch if you will and have a kit for larger tires then yes it can be the same way. Main take away is the "riding" of the clutch is bad