I am glad there are people that take the time to make videos like this to help others learn. I love watching your videos and have learned quite a bit from them. Thank you for doing what you do!!
Best tutorial available anywhere. If you're having issues with getting your printer working, just get the hardware that you see in this video and follow along. Chris is going step-by-step which might seems unnecessary but if you're new to 3d printing it's very much appreciated. Keep up the good work Chris!
I'm 74 years young and brand new to this, Chris has been a lifesaver! He does talk a little fast but I know how to back up and play it over again. My new BTT SKR is working great, now on to his other video on how to add a BL touch. Thank you very much Chris.
Just put my SKR v2 in my Ender 3 Pro, The drivers are CRAZY SILENT with these step motors and it runs SOOOO much smoother and faster. I was super concerned about building a new firmware for my board but this tutorial was perfect and taught me a TON!!!! Such a great upgrade. Gonna put in my BLTouch tomorrow or sometime next week, I also have the FTF70 7" touchscreen to do but wanted to get this installed and the machine speed up so when I print the casing it doesnt take me forever and I get the best quality. For now this get the thing running flawlessly!! Thanks again.
Possibly the best video on the SKR Mini E3 V2. You get right to the point. Got this board last week and added this and the TFT35 V3 to the ender 5 plus. Got 2 very minor issues related to re configuring a pin for an extra fan and hotend trying to move beyond the the beds x/y bounds. Think this tackles the re configuration issue. Will give that a try later.
@@ChrisRiley This was a huge help in figuring how to edit the configs and compile everything. One thing I did different was in platformio.ini, I had to change default_envs to "STM32F103RC_btt_512K" instead of "STM32F103RE_btt".
For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!
Chris your explanation is outstanding. I'm waiting for my Ender 5 to arrive & ordered the SKR V2.0 board with it. I am a completely new to 3D printing this will be my first time & gotta say its a bit intimidating having to config things at this level. Watching most videos has left me a bit confused, esp since I have never used Github before & your style of explanation has given me way more confidence - much appreciation, well done!
Just ordered the board and touchscreen combo. This was the best video covering Marlin. I've done 1 Marlin config 32bit board before, but I needed a serious refresher. Lol I'll have to tweak my E steps, turn on Auto PID function because it's so handy, set bed size to 235x235, tweak BLtouch probe offset from nozzle, and that should be about it.
Quick warning. Just did this exactly how Chris did it. Found out that the colors for the hot end thermistor and heated bed were swapped. To avoid any problems, do the following: 1. Once configured, set the heated bed to 50c and feel it for any temp change. 2. If it does not change in temp or it shows the temperature of the nozzle increasing, simply swap the connections and repeat. Don't just assume that the wiring is correct like I did. Made the mistake and my heated bed started increasing in temperature almost immediately. Error was given and had to swap the wires. Fixed the issue. Just wanted everyone to know.
First of all, thank you for the installation guide, took me a while but got it done. Second, wow. Wow those drivers make the motos illegally quiet, I knew the difference would be big but I didn't think that it would drop the steppers noise below that of the stock fans, guess I need to upgrade those too now.
Chris, the fan pins you used for the hot end are setup for the MB fan, It’s is controlled by firmware but the reason it came on is during any movement by the steppers the MB fan comes on which was always on on the 1.2. My hot end fan is on all the time with the constant power setup...cheers as I got further in the video I saw you figured it..
Chris you films are the best man, the detail of description is grate (THANK YOU). I wish I had gone for the v2.0 board instead of the v1.2 board just for the FAN1_PIN control, cant control it on the 1.2 board
@@ChrisRiley Sooo, got the CR-10s up and running with the BTT SKR mini V2.0 and it won’t read from the SD card. I’m able to load the firmware via the SD, but I can’t load a gcode file to print from - doesn’t show the option on the screen. Any tips of where to look at? I have to use Pronterface to print from.
@@ChrisRiley it does - used it in my laptop and loaded through Pronterface. Tried other cards and tried reformatting. Right now I have Octoprint connected so I don’t have to use the usb slot. At least I can load firmware through it, though. Thanks.
Question for you. Thank you!! :) So I have spent the better part of the last 24hrs trying to troubleshoot my 3Pro to the point ordered a 2nd BLTouch for troubleshooting. I swapped out the Creality 4.2.7 for the Mini E3 with their touchscreen combo I got from Amazon the other day. Z would not home at all, just sit there are deploy/retract the BLTouch needle a few times then timeout. Watched this video combined with your BLTouch one and I obviously was missing something before because now it is working again! You are going to be my first stop from now on, for troubleshooting. I am so happy right now, you have no idea. THANK YOU !! :)
Super job with the video! My new BTT SKR board arrived today and this video included everything I needed to get it running and then add my own settings and adjustments to my customized Ender 3 printer.
Quick note Chris on the TFT touch display if the Black cable is inserted on the wrong slot on the screen end it will give Heatbed Temp fluctuations, I did have it on the wrong slot and it happened on my Ender 3, swapped it to the correct position and it went way, awesome little board with many features.
Cheers Chris. If I'd actually seen the fan cover mod, I wouldn't even be doing this! The reason I bought the board was because I dropped a couple of nuts in the fan (Didn't realise that's where they'd gone) whilst doing a fan upgrade on the hot end. Said nuts fell through the fan and shorted the OEM board when I turned it on.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff. Very well explained. You are awesome. Thank you for taking the time to explain this. Stay healthy brotha!
Thanks Very informative ! I hope that maybe in the future when you discuss the BL Touch setup you discuss in the configuration you will talk about configuration adv. h with the bl touch setup Thanks
Thanks for the walk through. I got to building Marlin in PlatformIO and it complained that STM32F103RE_btt was not compatible, recommended using STM32F103RC_btt which built successfully. Not sure what the difference is ...
Well done, as usual! I don’t need another printer, but almost wish I had one so I could try out Marlin 2.x. If only someone had turned Paulo’s filament box sized printer into a kit or at least a detailed BOM and assembly instructions.
While I'm waiting for my new board to arrive, watched like 5 times this video. It is so helpful, thanks for that! Can I ask about your aluminum heated bed? It seems to have a PEI sheet right? No removable. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm interested in that too! Thanks again, big fan from Argentina.
Chris - Compiled build environment is INCORRECT in this video at 19:05 - You should be in the 'env:STM32F103RC_btt' environment-C as in Charlie, NOT env:STM32F103RE_btt - E as in Echo as you are in this video for the SKR Mini E3 V2.0.
Yo man! Great video! I love how you showed how to use PWM for the hot end fan to turn it off below 50c! I love it on my machine! Thanks man, love every videos you've made!
Great video as always Chris. I wonder how you got a hold of the hemera hotend. I wonder if it is as great as i hope it is. I want to replace all my printers cuz im sock and tored of leaking v6 hotends.
@@ChrisRiley have you had any problems with it leaking? This is a notorious problem on my prusas with v6 hotends. I have done all the tricks on the web but they still leak a bit.
Hi there Chris! I found your channel when I ordered this board a couple of weeks ago. Great stuff you got going here. Keep up the good work! Now to my question. How high do you think I can crank up BUFSIZE? I'm running Octoprint and I know there's been a lot of discussions about this. I got a CR-10 Mini with everything stock except for the board now.
BUFSIZE to baudrate and all that, I am not really sure, that would be a question for the Marlin gurus. The Marlin discord folks will be able to answer that.
So far I have had three BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 V1.2 boards with TMS CONNECTION ERRORS. No response from BigTreeTech. If you think about the cost of those three boards the TH3D EZBoard looks cheap. I have not had a failure with the TH3D board and their support replies in 3 seconds. I will never purchase a BigTreeTech product again.
Getting pretty frustrated trying to build my bin file as each time I try I just get FileNotFoundError: [WinError 3] The system cannot find the path specified - Any tips on getting past this?
4:58 At first I laughed about sensorless homing on E, but then I started to wonder if it would be possible to go full mad scientist in Marlin and use it as a stop for automatic filament loading. Unfortunately I suspect the sensitivity tuning might kill the (stupid) idea.
Hi again chris it has been several years, I had changed out all of my ender 3s and cr 10's with the skr mini e3 v2.0 and the tft 35 with a bl touch ever thing worked out great with your help. NOW for the question what do I need to do to change the marlin set up to clipper without changing any hardware I called myself checking out your videos but I did not find anyone pertaing to this setup if you did just please direct me to the video so I can do it After getting a k1 max and seeing the speed and accuracy I have seen your video about BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 Again if you don't have time to answer I do understand again thanks oldfarmhand
Thank you for the Video ! Do you know Why the bedleveling is not saving the values? After a succsesfully bedleveling the nozzle during the printing is away up from the bed.
i dont know if anyone mentioned but check the polarity when instaling and before powering on because they did change the polarity in 2 places right after the fan and two yellow wires on the CR10 . it use to be negative positive and now its backwards i ran my printer for 12 hours like that before i saw it. Lucky it didnt do any damage but im sure it isnt good for it
I do have a question though, what do you consider or what did I say to Max temps are for the hot end in the bed? And then what kind of increase can you get on that by breaking off the MOSFETs?
So it's really not about max temp as far as the board goes, the hotends, you see 50w heaters, about any mosfet will run it. Now beds, you can really only expect to get around 120c max on DC, and if it's over about 220x220 the load can get really high, above 11amp. That is where you need to look at the loads and consider moving that to an external mosfet. I would have to look up the chip numbers to tell you max load. A lot of us go to AC beds for this reason.
I don't see the point on why you did all that procedure for the fan (swapping the connections, swapping the pins in Marlin etc.). I mean: you're still going to have only one Marlin-controlled fan and the other one full-blown. Thus, the overall noise won't be reduced. So, why u did that?
@@ChrisRiley Ok, now I see the point! Thus, I followed your guide and I have inverted the two fan connections on the controller board. Now the hotend fan is Marlin controlled while the controller fan is always on at full speed. But I replaced the latter with a very quiet 40x40x20mm Noctua fan and since I'm sharing the rear case with a Raspberry, I think it's ok to have the fan always on (perhaps I could GPIO contol the fan from the Pi?). Not a life changer while printing, but much more comfortable while idling at least. Tnx allot for your suggestion! :)
Chris Riley it’s even more my whole board is not working every usb connection results in a crash of the board for my Mac, Win10 and octoprint. I tried the big tree github fw and compiled it myself as well as the latest marlin ... always crashing
You say Fan0 (PC6) in controlled by default?.... that is where the the original (creality) blue/yellow wires go, correct? I have no control over the part cooling fan when connected there. It stays on permanent and no control from the console either. With the v1.2 board it does control the part cool fan without any issues. It seems like I'm finding a lot out there with the same issue.
Chris, I was looking on Amazon US at this board as someone told me it was cheaper to import a board from the US to the UK than it is to buy from the UK and I saw the seller says " 2)Because the fan on the SKR Mini E3 V2.0 control board is a CNC fan, you need to set the wind speed before using it. (Note: V2.0 version of the fan is not ready to use after power on);" I can't find anything about this on the web, what is your take on this?
I see you take the time and answer questions here so I'll post mine too :) I upgraded from v1.2 to v2.0. Since I made some changes I have my files based on official marlin config and merge from latest marlin bugfix which worked great so far with v1.2. For the upgrade to v2.0 board I first compared the official marlin config files for v1.2 and v2.0 (_bootscreen.h and _statusscreen.h are identical) and made changes in config and config_adv files accordingly. Compiling succeeds but after flashing I just get a blank display. Also octoprint cannot make a usb connection. On the sd card the firmware.bin is gone and there's a FIRMWARE.CUR file so I assume it flashed alright. Now I tried the firmware.bin file for v2.0 from bigtreetechs github repo to verify both display and board are working. And yes with this file everything works. Now I compared my config and config_adv files with the files in the bigtreetech repo and made changes again. Again I couldn't see anything obvious that may explain the problem.. And again after flashing - blank screen. Any ideas what may be the issue here? I'd rather not start with a new repo and paste in my changes from the current repo since I also have different branches in mine for different boards and setups. Maybe the v2.0 board only works with marlin stable and not with marlin bugfix?
Ok, seems latest marlin bugfix doesn't work with skr mini e3 v2.0 board. Idk why, but for now I just switched to latest stable and copied over my changes and it works.
hi Chris watched a lot of your videos and you inspired me to build my own printer with the e3v2 but i dont know which board to select in platformio could you help me please
Great video. But I have an Ender 3 Max. Following the part about compiling the firmware, and using the Ender 3 Max folder in the Examples folder (rather than the Ender 3) I am not seeing a folder for the SKR Mini E2 v2.0. I am just seeing 4 files...2 configs and 2 screen files. How can I create firmware for my Max if the folder isn't there?
I have an Ender 3, which I have had for a number of years. It is a great printer and has served me well so far. I have been running it with the stock Ender main board & using MatterControl, as I like the ability to send send files directly to the printer, from the computer and to be able to control the printer while it is operating. I recently changed the main board to this one, as the Ender board finally crapped out. Now my computer does not recognize / cannot find the Ender 3. Any ideas / suggestions / thoughts / comments?
@@ChrisRiley It is installed. I removed it and reinstalled it. Still the same thing. When I plug in the Ender 3, the computer makes a funny sound, the Ender 3 Screen lights up and says 'TMC Connection Error' at the bottom.
@@PatrickLesiecki Check this doc, they are saying you need a maple driver, there is a link to it. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf Also, it's really easy to feed power back into these boards, that can be really bad. Try to get a data only USB cable. Or you can do something like this. ruclips.net/video/fmRl0mqChpY/видео.htmlsi=yCVze3M_Z4ejmbTc&t=1283
@@ChrisRiley Unless I am doing something wrong, when I click the link, it says: Error rendering embedded code Invalid PDF I clicked on different links / folders on this site, but,as I have said, I am not super computer techy / savvy. I have no i dea of what I am looking at or what to do with them, and, the meager "instructions are useless for a guy like me. I am using the cable that came with the board. I have also tried the cable I used with the Original Ender board, which worked on / with that board.
I'm interested in this mod because my stock Ender 3 board has apparently died. But, after watching this video, it's clear to me that it's anything but plug and play. I can move wires around. But dickin' around with software leaves me in the dust. GitHub and Visual Pro may as well be in Chinese and I don't speak a word. There's an opportunity here for someone to dumb all this down.
Hello Chris, I just love your channel, thank you. I am curious, I have an Anycubic Kossel Plus printer. Can I change the Trigorilla board to a SKR Mini 3e V2.0? I really like the board since I just recently changed the board on my Ender 3. Thank you for your assistance. Dusty
Hi I am now in building a printer looks like Anycubic how do i put Endstops on it the most of the Endstopswitches have 3 Cable so it is not possible to stick it in the Mini E3 2.0 because there are just two connect pins please explain how its done keep your good work in futere
love watching your videos, you talk so I can understand... wish you did the ender 3 pro with SKR-mini V2 and a BLTouch.. i get scared when I have to jump videos to get things installed lol WELL I take that back, you did one ! lol thanks Chris! well printer teardown starts after a coffee.. hope this time I don't fry my stepper motors like last time :-(
question, i did the fan conversation and perfect, now the bltouch, the connectors that they send I had to switch 2 wires, but the white and black, humm where the crap do they go? if keeping the z stop.. or do we remove the z stop ?
@@WayneRigley So if you want to keep the Z switch use the probe pins. Starting from the pin closes to the edge of the board. It goes Brown, Red, Orange, Black, White.
I have a problem with the connection of skr E3 mini v2.0 and cura. Connecting to a computer freezes the printer. Only connecting to another program allows you to control the ender as a repiter host.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. This is super helpful. If I'm not adjusting the speed of my hotend fan and the rest of my ender3 is stock, are there any changes that I have to make for the v2 board?
so this has 2 z plugs, but only one tmc chip between them? so not a great upgrade from a 1.2, but with a splitter cable - i'm assuming you cant control them independantly?
I am on my second v2.0 skr-mini-e3 board and it has failed to boot off the bat. The first board worked great until one day it decided to start throwing Thermal Runaway: E1 error on boot and no matter what I've done it has not fixed. Change basically every wire and piece of hardware I can and try flashing different firmwares, both pre-compiled and compiled by myself. No way I know of around this issue. Bought a second board from Amazon and it arrived brand new. After installing and trying to boot I get a blank screen (all pixels are black on the stock Ender 3 display) an that's it. No beeps, chies, or indication of an issue. Firmware will not flash off any SD card I have tried be i freshly formatted to FAT32 or a card I know works in another board (skr-mini-e3-dip v1.2). Have you run into any glaring issues like this in your time with the board? Any assistance is greatly appriciated! You're videos have taught me immensly and I can't thank you enough!
Hi Chris this a little bit off topic but you helped me so much with my ender 3 now I have a question about my cr10 :-) I am going to change out the main board to a mini e3 v2.0 like I did on my ender 3 but not sure about the marlin 2.0 setup for it, if i used the setup from the ender 3 what do you suggest i change, for it to be compatible? I use your setup with bl touch settings and it the ender 3 works great! Again Thanks
Hey, that will be a super simple change. Those machine are very similar. I would just increase bed size and Z height to match the CR10. You might what to lower the acceleration a bit because of the heavier bed, but the rest should work fine.
Error: Build environment 'STM32F103RE_btt' is incompatible with BOARD_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_V2_0. Use one of these: STM32F103RC_btt, STM32F103RC_btt_512K, STM32F103RC_btt_USB, STM32F103RC_btt_512K_USB
Would it be beneficial to go dual z with this board on an Ender 3? Possibly make a guide on it since it looks like a simple upgrade to do with this board?
Hey Chris, What is the solution for Nozzel Heat overshoot. for example, I set temp to 200 it will go up and pass 230 then start going down again. I tried to do the PID tuning But failed due to the problem I mentioned above, can you please help with this matter. using BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 I check all the wiring and for sure has nothing to do with that. totally new to this and thanks to you I'm learning so much. appreciate your help.
So PID is really all you can do here. Silicon socks can help as well. Try to set you PID auto tune to 210 and reset those numbers in eeprom. Preheat to 210 also before you start the autotune. I would check your PSU voltage too, make sure it's not too high.
Question...i have followed this video 10 times. reloaded new version of Marlin from the Github site. I have 2 problems. 1 When I reboot with the new firmware I get an error the error " failed to enable bed leveling" From what I have read, that is because there is no data. So the second problem. Homing, Everything seems to work when going to home, X & Y go home, the extruder goes to the middle of the bed, but the Z will not go down. it moves upwards, then stops. the BLTouch does it quick reset, probe extends and then I get an error "STOP called because of BLTouch error, Restart with M999" Any help from your user or you would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance...CO
My guess is that it thinks the Z is always triggered. Check it with m119. Check you white and black wires are on the S and G pins. Try switching these marlin settings. #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
It's designed to line up with the ender 3 case, but I am guessing the ender 5 is the same. Check the github drawing. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0.1/Hardware
Even if they don't have the direct port you can use an adapter, and it should just be a setting in marlin. But we will wait for the professional to answer :-) lol
Installed my v2 using this video, thank you. I do have a problem though, on the menu I have no bed leveling, how do I get this back onto my menu to enable manual bed leveling via mesh and/or corners?
Chris, this works great for me, but how can I export the firmware file to the server card, tried a direct connection but VNC studio rejects it, how do I export the firmware file so I can upload it via sd card?
On the STM32 there is no way to do it from the serial I am afraid, you have to hand truck it with the SD card. The STM chip takes some sort of interpetur to flash it.
I am working an making an infinity printer with this board. For convince I'm trying to switch the Y-Stepper port with the Z-Stepper ports in the v2 marlin firmware so I can utilize the 2 ports the Z has. I can't find any way to switch them, so I was wondering if you know if this is possible or not? Thanks!
Hey what's the deal with the SKR E3 Mini v2.0 and neopixel it doesn't work !!!!!!!!!! Once you set it up in Marlin you go to compile and FAIL FAIL if you take away the NeoPixel setup it compiles fine ? Thanks
Hello Chris, i have a question. I've installed this board on a CR10-Mini. It was running an SKR 1.4 Turbo before (temporarily since i didn't want to cut up the control box for SD and USB), and it was fine, nothing weird going on. However i had a bunch of issues with the Mini E3. The steppers were receiving the wrong commands. For example X was behaving like Z both in terms of Hybrid Threshold and steps/mm, Z was behaving like either X or Y (couldn't quite tell) and Y seemed to behave like the extruder and got hot AF, even though they were all wired correctly. I didn't want to start from the Ender 3 config and change it for my machine, rather i started from the stock Creality config and changed it for this board. After a day of troubleshooting i found some settings in Marlin that would allow me to get them running proprely (X_SLAVE_ADDRESS 0, Y_SLAVE_ADDRESS 2, Z_SLAVE_ADDRESS 1, E0_SLAVE_ADDRESS 3) and the "best part" is i couldn't find anything regarding the issue on the internet. I still have one nagging issue though. My part cooling fans (i have 2 5015 in parallel and a Noctua 40x20 for the hotend heatsink on a Hero Me Gen5) are buzzing. Sounds like PWM noise, but it's really annoying and loud. Sounds almost like a small speaker. They seem to only buzz below 75%, or maybe it's just the fan noise that masks it at 75% and above, but it didn't seem like it, i tried listening carefully. I don't know about the heatsink fan since i always run that at 100% and it's basically dead silent. I had tried enabling FAST_PWM_FAN in Marlin (Configuration.h) since the description seemed to suggest i might fix my issue, however it doesn't seem to be supported for that chip yet. My question is, do you think this is a "bug" with the board, maybe related to the fact it's running 12v and not 24v (even though it can run in both and they also state it supports the CR10 Mini and original CR10 which are both 12v) or a config issue or a hardware issue on my side (fans or wiring) ? Have you installed it alongside a 12v PSU or encountered this issue with any of your machines ? Curious if maybe you know of a solution for this. Needless to say, neither of these issues presented themselves on the SKR 1.4 Turbo...
I think it might be a bug on the board, I haven't tried these on 12v yet, but I can almost guess that it has something to do with the new regulator on the board they are using. Not sure what the fix would be.
I've had the exact same issues... I just fixed the steppers by comparing the configuration_adv.h with the official marlin branch with the broken one from BTT (the current BTT branch doesn't compile) and from there change stuff to copy the BTT branch. As for the PWM noise. I feel like it's hardware related and seeing that the only major change from V1.2 is the 5V regulator it would seem like a logical source... I run on 12V but it really shouldn't make a difference from running on 24V, if anything the datasheet says the regulator is more efficient at 12V. I think i'll check it out with an oscilloscope next friday and try to figure out were the noise is coming from.
@@crookedtooth6445 I'd also be very interested in your findings. I have long since fixed my steppers, infact they were already fixed when i had posted this. As for the fans, i used SOFT_PWM in Marlin and they're definetly quieter. No longer do i have the annoying electrical whining, however now i've got clicking noise when it pulses at low frequencies (i.e. when you're running the fan slowly)... Could probably tune it by messing with the scale, but it eats into the range of PWM that you can use from what i understood. Anyway, haven't touched the printer in a week or so since i've been very busy with work and other things as of late.
Hello, does this board need the DCDC 5V if i want to use filament runout sensor with BL/3D Touch? Or only neopixels? The seller wrote that voltage parameter for Touch is 5V
I just received mine and I did a complete swap wire by wire so I don't mess up, When I plug the screen it beep and the screen get turn on and off, but when the screen is not connected everything seems to work until you see smoke coming out of the board, what the hell !?!? please help
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the reply and yea the board was defective. No doubt in my mind that this is Canada poste fault. It took me 4 weeks to get my board
The timing of this video could not have been better. Thank you. You're one of the best channels in this community 👍
Wow, thanks!
I agree, Chris is the man. No nonsense, just plain old knowledge.
Yea, he is the diamond in the rough!
I am glad there are people that take the time to make videos like this to help others learn. I love watching your videos and have learned quite a bit from them. Thank you for doing what you do!!
Thank you! I'm happy to help
Best tutorial available anywhere. If you're having issues with getting your printer working, just get the hardware that you see in this video and follow along. Chris is going step-by-step which might seems unnecessary but if you're new to 3d printing it's very much appreciated. Keep up the good work Chris!
Thanks!
I'm 74 years young and brand new to this, Chris has been a lifesaver! He does talk a little fast but I know how to back up and play it over again. My new BTT SKR is working great, now on to his other video on how to add a BL touch. Thank you very much Chris.
I've been told I'm a little fast, some videos are better than others. Thanks for watching
Somewhere in the video settings it lets you slow down the video. It might help you not need to rewind the video.
Just put my SKR v2 in my Ender 3 Pro, The drivers are CRAZY SILENT with these step motors and it runs SOOOO much smoother and faster. I was super concerned about building a new firmware for my board but this tutorial was perfect and taught me a TON!!!! Such a great upgrade. Gonna put in my BLTouch tomorrow or sometime next week, I also have the FTF70 7" touchscreen to do but wanted to get this installed and the machine speed up so when I print the casing it doesnt take me forever and I get the best quality. For now this get the thing running flawlessly!! Thanks again.
Great to hear, I am glad this was helpful!
Possibly the best video on the SKR Mini E3 V2. You get right to the point.
Got this board last week and added this and the TFT35 V3 to the ender 5 plus. Got 2 very minor issues related to re configuring a pin for an extra fan and hotend trying to move beyond the the beds x/y bounds.
Think this tackles the re configuration issue. Will give that a try later.
Nice! Hopefully this will be helpful.
@@ChrisRiley This was a huge help in figuring how to edit the configs and compile everything. One thing I did different was in platformio.ini, I had to change default_envs to "STM32F103RC_btt_512K" instead of "STM32F103RE_btt".
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, helps take the fear out of upgrading the board. 🙂
For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley yup! Thanks again! 🙂
Chris your explanation is outstanding. I'm waiting for my Ender 5 to arrive & ordered the SKR V2.0 board with it. I am a completely new to 3D printing this will be my first time & gotta say its a bit intimidating having to config things at this level. Watching most videos has left me a bit confused, esp since I have never used Github before & your style of explanation has given me way more confidence - much appreciation, well done!
Thanks! Good luck with your projects!
This got me sorted from start to finish, thank you!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Great! Thank you
Just ordered the board and touchscreen combo. This was the best video covering Marlin. I've done 1 Marlin config 32bit board before, but I needed a serious refresher. Lol
I'll have to tweak my E steps, turn on Auto PID function because it's so handy, set bed size to 235x235, tweak BLtouch probe offset from nozzle, and that should be about it.
Awesome, thank you!
Quick warning. Just did this exactly how Chris did it. Found out that the colors for the hot end thermistor and heated bed were swapped. To avoid any problems, do the following:
1. Once configured, set the heated bed to 50c and feel it for any temp change.
2. If it does not change in temp or it shows the temperature of the nozzle increasing, simply swap the connections and repeat. Don't just assume that the wiring is correct like I did. Made the mistake and my heated bed started increasing in temperature almost immediately. Error was given and had to swap the wires. Fixed the issue. Just wanted everyone to know.
Thanks for posting this info.
I don’t understand how this channel has only 35k subs....., keep up the good work!
Thanks!
First of all, thank you for the installation guide, took me a while but got it done. Second, wow. Wow those drivers make the motos illegally quiet, I knew the difference would be big but I didn't think that it would drop the steppers noise below that of the stock fans, guess I need to upgrade those too now.
Lol! If it ain't one thing, it's another! Thanks for watching
Chris, the fan pins you used for the hot end are setup for the MB fan, It’s is controlled by firmware but the reason it came on is during any movement by the steppers the MB fan comes on which was always on on the 1.2. My hot end fan is on all the time with the constant power setup...cheers as I got further in the video I saw you figured it..
Thanks, yeah I got it sorted, but that is an interesting feature.
Chris you films are the best man, the detail of description is grate (THANK YOU). I wish I had gone for the v2.0 board instead of the v1.2 board just for the FAN1_PIN control, cant control it on the 1.2 board
Thanks man, yeah, that is a big improvement for sure.
Once again, this and your BLTouch video was a huge help in setting up my new CR-10s. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisRiley Sooo, got the CR-10s up and running with the BTT SKR mini V2.0 and it won’t read from the SD card. I’m able to load the firmware via the SD, but I can’t load a gcode file to print from - doesn’t show the option on the screen. Any tips of where to look at? I have to use Pronterface to print from.
@@hawker800mech So does the card work at all? Only thing I can think of is try another card or format the card again.
@@ChrisRiley it does - used it in my laptop and loaded through Pronterface. Tried other cards and tried reformatting. Right now I have Octoprint connected so I don’t have to use the usb slot. At least I can load firmware through it, though. Thanks.
Question for you.
Thank you!! :)
So I have spent the better part of the last 24hrs trying to troubleshoot my 3Pro to the point ordered a 2nd BLTouch for troubleshooting. I swapped out the Creality 4.2.7 for the Mini E3 with their touchscreen combo I got from Amazon the other day. Z would not home at all, just sit there are deploy/retract the BLTouch needle a few times then timeout. Watched this video combined with your BLTouch one and I obviously was missing something before because now it is working again!
You are going to be my first stop from now on, for troubleshooting. I am so happy right now, you have no idea. THANK YOU !! :)
Awesome, glad it helped you out!
this is the best and most comprehensive vid for the installation. appreciate u bossman
Thank you!
Super job with the video! My new BTT SKR board arrived today and this video included everything I needed to get it running and then add my own settings and adjustments to my customized Ender 3 printer.
Sweet! I'm glad it was helpful
Quick note Chris on the TFT touch display if the Black cable is inserted on the wrong slot on the screen end it will give Heatbed Temp fluctuations, I did have it on the wrong slot and it happened on my Ender 3, swapped it to the correct position and it went way, awesome little board with many features.
Thanks for the tip!
Cheers Chris. If I'd actually seen the fan cover mod, I wouldn't even be doing this! The reason I bought the board was because I dropped a couple of nuts in the fan (Didn't realise that's where they'd gone) whilst doing a fan upgrade on the hot end.
Said nuts fell through the fan and shorted the OEM board when I turned it on.
Oh man! I'm glad you got it fixed!
Fantastic video. Answering questions that are constantly spammed/asked across many forums. Thank you !
Great to hear! Thank you
Great job on this video. like the comparison at the end to the Ender 3 V2.
Thanks for watching
Great video, ordered some upgrades for my Ender 3's but those Heatsinks SO CROOKED!
Admiral, Thanks for the great video!
Lol... Thanks, it was a field promotion.
as usual a nice video. I use your videos as tutorials for people here whenI want them to learn the basics. Thanks for that.
That's what I'm here for. Spread the knowledge!
Chris Riley thanks for that. Makes the community a better place.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff. Very well explained. You are awesome. Thank you for taking the time to explain this. Stay healthy brotha!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Very informative !
I hope that maybe in the future when you discuss the BL Touch setup you discuss in the configuration you will talk about configuration adv. h with the bl touch setup
Thanks
Will do, I will make a note of that.
@@ChrisRiley please do :)
You know I am so surprised a GUI for firmware configuration has not been written.
We should see one from Marlin really soon.
I've been saying the same thing. Why isn't this easier?!
Thanks for the walk through. I got to building Marlin in PlatformIO and it complained that STM32F103RE_btt was not compatible, recommended using STM32F103RC_btt which built successfully. Not sure what the difference is ...
Really the only difference is the RC is forcing it to use 512k, not sure how that all works, but I always use RC now.
Well done, as usual! I don’t need another printer, but almost wish I had one so I could try out Marlin 2.x. If only someone had turned Paulo’s filament box sized printer into a kit or at least a detailed BOM and assembly instructions.
It's a pretty cool little printer!
Thanks Chris, this helps a ton with my upcoming printer upgrade. Two thumbs up and keep up the good work!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
This helped me to compile the firmware for my CR10s thank you very much!
That's great!
I use it on my Ender 5 with TFT3.5! It‘s amazing and after some problem it works perfect!
That's great! Thanks for watching
While I'm waiting for my new board to arrive, watched like 5 times this video. It is so helpful, thanks for that!
Can I ask about your aluminum heated bed? It seems to have a PEI sheet right? No removable. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm interested in that too!
Thanks again, big fan from Argentina.
Correct, it's just a PEI sheet, not removeable.
Chris - Compiled build environment is INCORRECT in this video at 19:05 - You should be in the 'env:STM32F103RC_btt' environment-C as in Charlie, NOT env:STM32F103RE_btt - E as in Echo as you are in this video for the SKR Mini E3 V2.0.
Hey, they should compile the same. Only difference is memory and it appears you can use 512k on both.
@@ChrisRiley Awesome.. thanks man.. really like your videos.. !!! keep up the GREAT WORK!!! you ARE AWESOME!
Yo man! Great video! I love how you showed how to use PWM for the hot end fan to turn it off below 50c! I love it on my machine! Thanks man, love every videos you've made!
Thank you so much!
Great video as always Chris. I wonder how you got a hold of the hemera hotend. I wonder if it is as great as i hope it is. I want to replace all my printers cuz im sock and tored of leaking v6 hotends.
I got mine over at PrintedSolid, they are back in stock. I really like it and it's pretty affordable.
@@ChrisRiley have you had any problems with it leaking? This is a notorious problem on my prusas with v6 hotends. I have done all the tricks on the web but they still leak a bit.
@@EspenShampoo25 I would say about the same as the V6.
Nice this video came just in time😄, I just ordered one yesterday 👍🏾
Hope you like it! Thanks for watching
Hi there Chris!
I found your channel when I ordered this board a couple of weeks ago. Great stuff you got going here. Keep up the good work! Now to my question. How high do you think I can crank up BUFSIZE? I'm running Octoprint and I know there's been a lot of discussions about this. I got a CR-10 Mini with everything stock except for the board now.
BUFSIZE to baudrate and all that, I am not really sure, that would be a question for the Marlin gurus. The Marlin discord folks will be able to answer that.
amazing detail, helped a ton!
Glad it helped!
So far I have had three BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 V1.2 boards with TMS CONNECTION ERRORS. No response from BigTreeTech. If you think about the cost of those three boards the TH3D EZBoard looks cheap. I have not had a failure with the TH3D board and their support replies in 3 seconds. I will never purchase a BigTreeTech product again.
Sad to hear, but QC is just not there.
Getting pretty frustrated trying to build my bin file as each time I try I just get FileNotFoundError: [WinError 3] The system cannot find the path specified - Any tips on getting past this?
Make sure you have the folder that contains the Marlin folder added to your project. You should be able to see the .pio folder.
Great walkthrough
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thank you, I'm glad you like it!
Who gives Chris these promotions? He's an admiral now! Excellent video
Thanks! My wife refuses to call me Admiral. I guess I lose the title when I come up from the basement. 😉
Hi thx for the great video can you do a neopixel tutorial for this board , I'm struggling for weeks now to get it work.
Sure, that is one I had on the list.
4:58 At first I laughed about sensorless homing on E, but then I started to wonder if it would be possible to go full mad scientist in Marlin and use it as a stop for automatic filament loading. Unfortunately I suspect the sensitivity tuning might kill the (stupid) idea.
It's a great idea, not sure how well it will detect with that gear, but it could be fun to try.
Why did it look like your hot-end fan and heated bed terminals were wiggling as you were touching them with your screwdriver? That doesn't seem safe!
Sometime those terminal aren't the sturdiest items.
Hi again chris it has been several years, I had changed out all of my ender 3s and cr 10's with the skr mini e3 v2.0 and the tft 35 with a bl touch ever thing worked out great with your help. NOW for the question what do I need to do to change the marlin set up to clipper without changing any hardware I called myself checking out your videos but I did not find anyone pertaing to this setup if you did just please direct me to the video so I can do it
After getting a k1 max and seeing the speed and accuracy I have seen your video about BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0
Again if you don't have time to answer I do understand again thanks
oldfarmhand
Hey, glad you came back! I have a few videos on converting to klipper. Start here. ruclips.net/video/qS1TC7zVXYw/видео.htmlsi=0Ngtow96u6yIZ4tW
Thank you for the Video ! Do you know Why the bedleveling is not saving the values? After a succsesfully bedleveling the nozzle during the printing is away up from the bed.
That is usually the Z offset that caused that. If will need to be adjusted after the bed level is ran.
As always great video, however why are you using the STM32F103RE_btt when your Chip is the STM32F103RTC6?
Thanks, honestly, I didn't look. Both will work, but yes, you should go with the one closes to the exact chip.
i dont know if anyone mentioned but check the polarity when instaling and before powering on because they did change the polarity in 2 places right after the fan and two yellow wires on the CR10 . it use to be negative positive and now its backwards i ran my printer for 12 hours like that before i saw it. Lucky it didnt do any damage but im sure it isnt good for it
Good looking out, thank you.
I do have a question though, what do you consider or what did I say to Max temps are for the hot end in the bed? And then what kind of increase can you get on that by breaking off the MOSFETs?
What did it say* sorry I dictated that and should have checked first lol
So it's really not about max temp as far as the board goes, the hotends, you see 50w heaters, about any mosfet will run it. Now beds, you can really only expect to get around 120c max on DC, and if it's over about 220x220 the load can get really high, above 11amp. That is where you need to look at the loads and consider moving that to an external mosfet. I would have to look up the chip numbers to tell you max load. A lot of us go to AC beds for this reason.
I don't see the point on why you did all that procedure for the fan (swapping the connections, swapping the pins in Marlin etc.). I mean: you're still going to have only one Marlin-controlled fan and the other one full-blown. Thus, the overall noise won't be reduced. So, why u did that?
The hotend fan is now Marlin controlled, it only comes on when printing.
@@ChrisRiley Ok, now I see the point! Thus, I followed your guide and I have inverted the two fan connections on the controller board. Now the hotend fan is Marlin controlled while the controller fan is always on at full speed. But I replaced the latter with a very quiet 40x40x20mm Noctua fan and since I'm sharing the rear case with a Raspberry, I think it's ok to have the fan always on (perhaps I could GPIO contol the fan from the Pi?). Not a life changer while printing, but much more comfortable while idling at least. Tnx allot for your suggestion! :)
Thank you for the video. Well it's just unfortunate that the board does not support updating the firmware via USB :/
Yeah, that is one of the biggest issue in the STM chips.
Chris Riley it’s even more my whole board is not working every usb connection results in a crash of the board for my Mac, Win10 and octoprint. I tried the big tree github fw and compiled it myself as well as the latest marlin ... always crashing
@@nachtschatt3n Wow, that shouldn't happen.
You say Fan0 (PC6) in controlled by default?.... that is where the the original (creality) blue/yellow wires go, correct? I have no control over the part cooling fan when connected there. It stays on permanent and no control from the console either. With the v1.2 board it does control the part cool fan without any issues. It seems like I'm finding a lot out there with the same issue.
Yes, fan 0 should be your controllable part fan, you have it correct. I guess it's a board issue. That is sad to hear.
The only downside of the board is that it lacks power loss recovery by default in the firmware...otherwise excellent
Yeah, it been really good. It's hard to keep up with all the new boards they release.
Chris, I was looking on Amazon US at this board as someone told me it was cheaper to import a board from the US to the UK than it is to buy from the UK and I saw the seller says " 2)Because the fan on the SKR Mini E3 V2.0 control board is a CNC fan, you need to set the wind speed before using it. (Note: V2.0 version of the fan is not ready to use after power on);" I can't find anything about this on the web, what is your take on this?
Not sure what they mean by that. FAN0 is controlled by gcode, so it shouldn't be an issue.
I see you take the time and answer questions here so I'll post mine too :)
I upgraded from v1.2 to v2.0. Since I made some changes I have my files based on official marlin config and merge from latest marlin bugfix which worked great so far with v1.2. For the upgrade to v2.0 board I first compared the official marlin config files for v1.2 and v2.0 (_bootscreen.h and _statusscreen.h are identical) and made changes in config and config_adv files accordingly.
Compiling succeeds but after flashing I just get a blank display. Also octoprint cannot make a usb connection. On the sd card the firmware.bin is gone and there's a FIRMWARE.CUR file so I assume it flashed alright. Now I tried the firmware.bin file for v2.0 from bigtreetechs github repo to verify both display and board are working. And yes with this file everything works.
Now I compared my config and config_adv files with the files in the bigtreetech repo and made changes again. Again I couldn't see anything obvious that may explain the problem.. And again after flashing - blank screen.
Any ideas what may be the issue here?
I'd rather not start with a new repo and paste in my changes from the current repo since I also have different branches in mine for different boards and setups.
Maybe the v2.0 board only works with marlin stable and not with marlin bugfix?
Ok, seems latest marlin bugfix doesn't work with skr mini e3 v2.0 board. Idk why, but for now I just switched to latest stable and copied over my changes and it works.
Glad you found one that works. It could just be different fixes introduced in the newer version.
hi Chris watched a lot of your videos and you inspired me to build my own printer with the e3v2 but i dont know which board to select in platformio could you help me please
Hey, sure, you can use a couple of the chip and it will work the same, I use this one. STM32F103RC_btt_USB
Great video. But I have an Ender 3 Max. Following the part about compiling the firmware, and using the Ender 3 Max folder in the Examples folder (rather than the Ender 3) I am not seeing a folder for the SKR Mini E2 v2.0. I am just seeing 4 files...2 configs and 2 screen files. How can I create firmware for my Max if the folder isn't there?
Thanks! I would just use the Ender3 and make the quick updates for the max sizes.
I have an Ender 3, which I have had for a number of years. It is a great printer and has served me well so far. I have been running it with the stock Ender main board & using MatterControl, as I like the ability to send send files directly to the printer, from the computer and to be able to control the printer while it is operating. I recently changed the main board to this one, as the Ender board finally crapped out. Now my computer does not recognize / cannot find the Ender 3. Any ideas / suggestions / thoughts / comments?
Trying installing the ch340 driver on your computer, se if that helps. sparks.gogo.co.nz/ch340.html
@@ChrisRiley It is installed. I removed it and reinstalled it. Still the same thing. When I plug in the Ender 3, the computer makes a funny sound, the Ender 3 Screen lights up and says 'TMC Connection Error' at the bottom.
@@PatrickLesiecki Check this doc, they are saying you need a maple driver, there is a link to it. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf Also, it's really easy to feed power back into these boards, that can be really bad. Try to get a data only USB cable. Or you can do something like this. ruclips.net/video/fmRl0mqChpY/видео.htmlsi=yCVze3M_Z4ejmbTc&t=1283
@@ChrisRiley Unless I am doing something wrong, when I click the link, it says:
Error rendering embedded code
Invalid PDF
I clicked on different links / folders on this site, but,as I have said, I am not super computer techy / savvy. I have no i dea of what I am looking at or what to do with them, and, the meager "instructions are useless for a guy like me.
I am using the cable that came with the board. I have also tried the cable I used with the Original Ender board, which worked on / with that board.
I'm interested in this mod because my stock Ender 3 board has apparently died. But, after watching this video, it's clear to me that it's anything but plug and play. I can move wires around. But dickin' around with software leaves me in the dust. GitHub and Visual Pro may as well be in Chinese and I don't speak a word. There's an opportunity here for someone to dumb all this down.
I have a intro VScode video coming out that might help.
Hello Chris,
I just love your channel, thank you.
I am curious, I have an Anycubic Kossel Plus printer. Can I change the Trigorilla board to a SKR Mini 3e V2.0? I really like the board since I just recently changed the board on my Ender 3.
Thank you for your assistance.
Dusty
Thank you! Yes, that should work just fine. I am thinking about changing mine to a 1.4 board.
Hi I am now in building a printer looks like Anycubic how do i put Endstops on it the most of the Endstopswitches have 3 Cable so it is not possible to stick it in the Mini E3 2.0 because there are just two connect pins please explain how its done keep your good work in futere
You could swap them with the regular microswitches, or you use another 5v source to power them. I am not sure if they will work without power.
love watching your videos, you talk so I can understand... wish you did the ender 3 pro with SKR-mini V2 and a BLTouch.. i get scared when I have to jump videos to get things installed lol WELL I take that back, you did one ! lol thanks Chris! well printer teardown starts after a coffee.. hope this time I don't fry my stepper motors like last time :-(
Coffee first, then printers! Thanks for watching
@@ChrisRiley watching your BLTouvh video now.. setting things up.. so far good..
@@ChrisRiley well test compile and was all good, makes changes complied good, do the bltouch part and fails
question, i did the fan conversation and perfect, now the bltouch, the connectors that they send I had to switch 2 wires, but the white and black, humm where the crap do they go? if keeping the z stop.. or do we remove the z stop ?
@@WayneRigley So if you want to keep the Z switch use the probe pins. Starting from the pin closes to the edge of the board. It goes Brown, Red, Orange, Black, White.
THAAANKK YOUUUU
You're welcome!
I have a problem with the connection of skr E3 mini v2.0 and cura. Connecting to a computer freezes the printer. Only connecting to another program allows you to control the ender as a repiter host.
Interesting, maybe there is a plugin for Cura for a STM serial?
Very interested in this, I have A CR-10S with the stock mainboard. Would this simply screw back in where the original came form? Many thanks
Yes, I am pretty sure the mini boards will replace the stock CR10 boards.
Nicely done. Thank you!
Thank you!
Chris thanks for your help. :)
That's why I'm here. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. This is super helpful.
If I'm not adjusting the speed of my hotend fan and the rest of my ender3 is stock, are there any changes that I have to make for the v2 board?
No, it should be a direct swap out, no changes needed.
@@ChrisRiley thanks!
Dude , to install wifi module is via tft35 screen interface?
For a mini board, yes.
so this has 2 z plugs, but only one tmc chip between them? so not a great upgrade from a 1.2, but with a splitter cable - i'm assuming you cant control them independantly?
The are connected in parallel on this board. You cannot control them separately.
@@ChrisRiley cheers Chris.
I am on my second v2.0 skr-mini-e3 board and it has failed to boot off the bat. The first board worked great until one day it decided to start throwing Thermal Runaway: E1 error on boot and no matter what I've done it has not fixed. Change basically every wire and piece of hardware I can and try flashing different firmwares, both pre-compiled and compiled by myself. No way I know of around this issue.
Bought a second board from Amazon and it arrived brand new. After installing and trying to boot I get a blank screen (all pixels are black on the stock Ender 3 display) an that's it. No beeps, chies, or indication of an issue. Firmware will not flash off any SD card I have tried be i freshly formatted to FAT32 or a card I know works in another board (skr-mini-e3-dip v1.2).
Have you run into any glaring issues like this in your time with the board?
Any assistance is greatly appriciated! You're videos have taught me immensly and I can't thank you enough!
Hey Tyler, I haven't ran into any issues yet. That is sad to hear, I was hoping this one would have better QC.
How do you fix tmc connection error on this board.
Is this the stock firmware? Anything change?
thanks again for a great "how to" video
You are welcome! Thanks for watching
Hi Chris this a little bit off topic but you helped me so much with my ender 3 now I have a question about my cr10 :-)
I am going to change out the main board to a mini e3 v2.0 like I did on my ender 3 but not sure about the marlin 2.0 setup for it,
if i used the setup from the ender 3 what do you suggest i change, for it to be compatible?
I use your setup with bl touch settings and it the ender 3 works great!
Again Thanks
Hey, that will be a super simple change. Those machine are very similar. I would just increase bed size and Z height to match the CR10. You might what to lower the acceleration a bit because of the heavier bed, but the rest should work fine.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the info, I was not sure about the 3d touch sensor
My board has a fried chip, I don’t suppose you’d know how to reflash a new chip for soldering?
I don't, that's above my skill level I am afraid.
Error: Build environment 'STM32F103RE_btt' is incompatible with BOARD_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_V2_0. Use one of these: STM32F103RC_btt, STM32F103RC_btt_512K, STM32F103RC_btt_USB, STM32F103RC_btt_512K_USB
Got it, I was able to flash with 103RC_btt. Great video.
Great, yes, the RC one seems to work much better.
Is there any cons to putting this board into a CR-10S. I don't hear many people talking about replacing the CR-10 with it...
I don't think so, you would have to look on the BTT github, but I think they will fit that case.
Would it be beneficial to go dual z with this board on an Ender 3? Possibly make a guide on it since it looks like a simple upgrade to do with this board?
There would be some benefit to it, but maybe not worth the money. The X axis is short enough it's not as much of a problem.
Hey Chris, What is the solution for Nozzel Heat overshoot.
for example, I set temp to 200 it will go up and pass 230 then start going down again.
I tried to do the PID tuning But failed due to the problem I mentioned above, can you please help with this matter.
using BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 I check all the wiring and for sure has nothing to do with that.
totally new to this and thanks to you I'm learning so much. appreciate your help.
So PID is really all you can do here. Silicon socks can help as well. Try to set you PID auto tune to 210 and reset those numbers in eeprom. Preheat to 210 also before you start the autotune. I would check your PSU voltage too, make sure it's not too high.
@@ChrisRiley Thank, I'm going to give it a try, appreciate your help.
Question...i have followed this video 10 times. reloaded new version of Marlin from the Github site. I have 2 problems. 1 When I reboot with the new firmware I get an error the error " failed to enable bed leveling" From what I have read, that is because there is no data. So the second problem. Homing, Everything seems to work when going to home, X & Y go home, the extruder goes to the middle of the bed, but the Z will not go down. it moves upwards, then stops. the BLTouch does it quick reset, probe extends and then I get an error "STOP called because of BLTouch error, Restart with M999" Any help from your user or you would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance...CO
My guess is that it thinks the Z is always triggered. Check it with m119. Check you white and black wires are on the S and G pins. Try switching these marlin settings.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
Chris, would this board mount well in the Ender 5, would sd cards line up with the case. I currently have the V1.1.4 board in it?
It's designed to line up with the ender 3 case, but I am guessing the ender 5 is the same. Check the github drawing. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0.1/Hardware
@@ChrisRiley Thanks, for your answer and the link. Good video.
I had trouble finding out if v2 supports closed loop stepper motors...
Even if they don't have the direct port you can use an adapter, and it should just be a setting in marlin. But we will wait for the professional to answer :-) lol
Yes, you should be able to make it work one way or another.
Installed my v2 using this video, thank you.
I do have a problem though, on the menu I have no bed leveling, how do I get this back onto my menu to enable manual bed leveling via mesh and/or corners?
Problem solved, lol
lol, glad you found it!
@@aussiedream69 Care to share how you fixed it??
Chris, this works great for me, but how can I export the firmware file to the server card, tried a direct connection but VNC studio rejects it, how do I export the firmware file so I can upload it via sd card?
On the STM32 there is no way to do it from the serial I am afraid, you have to hand truck it with the SD card. The STM chip takes some sort of interpetur to flash it.
I am working an making an infinity printer with this board. For convince I'm trying to switch the Y-Stepper port with the Z-Stepper ports in the v2 marlin firmware so I can utilize the 2 ports the Z has. I can't find any way to switch them, so I was wondering if you know if this is possible or not? Thanks!
Yes, just switch them in the Pins file. "pins_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_common.h"
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN PB11
#define Y_STEP_PIN PB10
#define Y_DIR_PIN PB2
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN PB1
#define Z_STEP_PIN PB0
#define Z_DIR_PIN PC5
Hey what's the deal with the SKR E3 Mini v2.0 and neopixel it doesn't work !!!!!!!!!! Once you set it up in Marlin you go to compile and FAIL FAIL if you take away the NeoPixel setup it compiles fine ? Thanks
Not sure on that, there might be something wrong in the pins file. I would search the Marlin github.
Can I use Bigtreetech skr mini E3 V2 in the 3D printer I made myself?
Sure you can, there are lots of firmware example out there to help you configure it.
Hello Chris, i have a question. I've installed this board on a CR10-Mini. It was running an SKR 1.4 Turbo before (temporarily since i didn't want to cut up the control box for SD and USB), and it was fine, nothing weird going on.
However i had a bunch of issues with the Mini E3. The steppers were receiving the wrong commands. For example X was behaving like Z both in terms of Hybrid Threshold and steps/mm, Z was behaving like either X or Y (couldn't quite tell) and Y seemed to behave like the extruder and got hot AF, even though they were all wired correctly. I didn't want to start from the Ender 3 config and change it for my machine, rather i started from the stock Creality config and changed it for this board. After a day of troubleshooting i found some settings in Marlin that would allow me to get them running proprely (X_SLAVE_ADDRESS 0, Y_SLAVE_ADDRESS 2, Z_SLAVE_ADDRESS 1, E0_SLAVE_ADDRESS 3) and the "best part" is i couldn't find anything regarding the issue on the internet.
I still have one nagging issue though. My part cooling fans (i have 2 5015 in parallel and a Noctua 40x20 for the hotend heatsink on a Hero Me Gen5) are buzzing. Sounds like PWM noise, but it's really annoying and loud. Sounds almost like a small speaker. They seem to only buzz below 75%, or maybe it's just the fan noise that masks it at 75% and above, but it didn't seem like it, i tried listening carefully. I don't know about the heatsink fan since i always run that at 100% and it's basically dead silent.
I had tried enabling FAST_PWM_FAN in Marlin (Configuration.h) since the description seemed to suggest i might fix my issue, however it doesn't seem to be supported for that chip yet.
My question is, do you think this is a "bug" with the board, maybe related to the fact it's running 12v and not 24v (even though it can run in both and they also state it supports the CR10 Mini and original CR10 which are both 12v) or a config issue or a hardware issue on my side (fans or wiring) ? Have you installed it alongside a 12v PSU or encountered this issue with any of your machines ? Curious if maybe you know of a solution for this. Needless to say, neither of these issues presented themselves on the SKR 1.4 Turbo...
I think it might be a bug on the board, I haven't tried these on 12v yet, but I can almost guess that it has something to do with the new regulator on the board they are using. Not sure what the fix would be.
I've had the exact same issues... I just fixed the steppers by comparing the configuration_adv.h with the official marlin branch with the broken one from BTT (the current BTT branch doesn't compile) and from there change stuff to copy the BTT branch.
As for the PWM noise. I feel like it's hardware related and seeing that the only major change from V1.2 is the 5V regulator it would seem like a logical source... I run on 12V but it really shouldn't make a difference from running on 24V, if anything the datasheet says the regulator is more efficient at 12V.
I think i'll check it out with an oscilloscope next friday and try to figure out were the noise is coming from.
@@crookedtooth6445 Thanks for the the update, I would be interested to see what you find.
@@crookedtooth6445 I'd also be very interested in your findings. I have long since fixed my steppers, infact they were already fixed when i had posted this. As for the fans, i used SOFT_PWM in Marlin and they're definetly quieter. No longer do i have the annoying electrical whining, however now i've got clicking noise when it pulses at low frequencies (i.e. when you're running the fan slowly)... Could probably tune it by messing with the scale, but it eats into the range of PWM that you can use from what i understood. Anyway, haven't touched the printer in a week or so since i've been very busy with work and other things as of late.
can i ask - why you choose to build for STM32F103RE_btt not STM32F103RC_btt? v2 got STM32F103RCT6 - STM32F103RC family controller
The RC only has a 256 memory limit, the RE has 512. You can force and RC chip to 512 with RE. They both seem to work fine.
Hello, does this board need the DCDC 5V if i want to use filament runout sensor with BL/3D Touch? Or only neopixels?
The seller wrote that voltage parameter for Touch is 5V
You should only need the DCDC for neo pixels.
Hi Chris, which board do you prefer between the SKR Mini and the Panucatt kinetica G2C?
The G2C is a nicer board, but takes some getting used to, RRF and all. Not as easy of an install.
Thank you for the reply. I didn't see, but were you able to get the motors to run quieter with the G2C?
@@AnthonyWilliams-mq8gj Yes, I had to turn off hybrid mode. It's in the G2C video.
Chris Riley thank you..
Idea for a future "Versus" video: E3D Hemera VS Micro Swiss Direct Drive with All Metal Hot End.
Hemera would win.
Humm... 🤔
My part cooling fan can't be controlled. What might the issue be?
I heard this was common on these boards, you might have just got a bad one.
cant find the project tasks in platform io.... nor stm32F103. i have the latest version
You might have the wrong folder added. Make sure you add the folder that contains the Marlin folder.
Is there a video for setting up the BLtouch on this board
This one is going to be very close. ruclips.net/video/p504oU-D6iE/видео.html
I just received mine and I did a complete swap wire by wire so I don't mess up, When I plug the screen it beep and the screen get turn on and off, but when the screen is not connected everything seems to work until you see smoke coming out of the board, what the hell !?!? please help
You probably just got a bad board, the QC isn't very good on these. I would return it and get another.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the reply and yea the board was defective. No doubt in my mind that this is Canada poste fault. It took me 4 weeks to get my board
Mine won’t heat up the build plate or nozzle any suggestions?
There are not too many things this could be, it's either a fuse or a bad board.