Thank you for watching! If you need to pick up any of the products used in the video: Caliper Set 2010-2015: amzn.to/3VMbuJm Caliper Set 2016-2023: amzn.to/3XTI2DM Front Brake Pad Set: amzn.to/45Og3HE Rear Brake Pad Set: amzn.to/45Qp82O Brake Hose/Line Pinch Pliers: amzn.to/41DkNO2 Breaker Bar: amzn.to/3EGxmxY Torque wrench: amzn.to/3ZiRkH6 Bleed-O-Matic: amzn.to/3kvasTy Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/3EEiwbi *Amazon Affiliate Links*
Thank you for going over the tools needed for the job at the beginning. It amazes me how many instructional videos are out there were that don’t do this.
The calliper in the video is a Raybestos. The one in the Amazon link is a different lower quality brand. Also thank you for putting this together. I haven’t done mine yet but this helps greatly.
GREAT TIP I LEARNED WORKING ON CARS YEARS AGO. You can use a flat head screw driver between the old rotor and the inside of the old pads before removing to press the pistons back in. This can be done with the frt. and rear calibers on just about any car truck or SUV.
65k miles and both of my front calipers seized up. Getting ready to install some Powerstop replacements with a fresh set of Z36 pads and their rotors. I’m bummed I only got 14k miles of the front set before the OEM calipers seized.
Hey! I have the same set of brake caliper on my 4runner for about 2 weeks now and noticed I’m having a leak Im just curious if it does the same to you?
The rear calipers are slightly different from the fronts but if you have done the fronts without issue the back calipers shouldn’t be a problem to replace. Hopefully this helps, thank you for watching!
Thank you for watching I’m glad the video was helpful! Thanks for the compliment as well! So far I’ve been impressed with the PowerStop pads they seem to provide slightly better stopping performance, hopefully they last as long as the OEM pads. Thanks again for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
@@5MinuteFixit Right on! I love the OEM pads. I'm still on the original pads/rotors at 70k with no squealing/shaking (yet). Have you swapped out the rotors yet? If so, at what mileage? Thanks again for your time.
Excellent video. But I do have to comment on the torquing method. It is best to stop on the first click and not to continue to tighten past that click. It may not hurt this situation but can be a stripping issue if it were made from aluminum. I do appreciate this video.
Just did mine today, and it only has 1 of those triangle clip Aswell. never had the brake job done on this vehicle before, so I guess Toyota figured one is more than enough.
Hi, what year is your 4Runner, and is there something that can be done before, say with regular oil changes lubricate the caliper pistons to avoid seizing and having to replace them? thanks
There’s not too much to be done as far as preventing the calipers from seizing unless you took your brake pads off regularly and “worked” the pistons back and forth. I think its because I live in the “rust belt” that my 4Runner is more prone to these issues. It’s a 2014, thank you for watching and check out my other 4Runner maintenance videos if you are interested! Thank you!
@@5MinuteFixit this is the plan, take them off every other oil change and work them out and lubricate them. Also I just did exactly your procedure, replaced the calipers, got them off your amazon link, and all worked well. One change, I did not clamp the brake hose, it dripped out an ounce or two of fluid, but that is not a bad thing as that fluid is most contaminated and needed replaced anyway. Good that I checked the pistons, I am in GTA and rust is an issue. One of the pistons was pinched and rubber broken, a previous mechanic must have pinched it. It was just a matter of time until seized like yours, even though the car is barely 2020
Good on you for finding the issue with the rubber on the piston, I also like the tip about letting some fluid out and replacing with new! Thanks again!
If you must lubricate caliper pistons, do it with brake fluid only. If you do it with anything else, the brake fluid from the brake line which presses pistons against the brake pad will draw the lubricant back to the brake line and thus contaminate the brake fluid.
@@luccig1you cannot be serious. It takes roughly 8 years or 100k miles for the calipers to seize. A reman caliper is $125. All the time you spent "working the calipers" (which doesn't prevent the corrosion anyway) cost much than that in your labor.
It was the lower piston on the inside of the caliper that was seized, when trying to push the pistons out that one would not move. No lights on the dash. Thank you for watching! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
In my case when I tried to push in the caliper pistons the inside lower piston was seized. You could rebuild the caliper but in my case I opted to change the caliper out as it was a fairly inexpensive option. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
Protip when bleeding the brakes fill the bottle the half way thats catching the fluid coming out then it wont suck in air. He clearly still had air in the line as he tightened it
Thank you for watching! If you need to pick up any of the products used in the video:
Caliper Set 2010-2015: amzn.to/3VMbuJm
Caliper Set 2016-2023: amzn.to/3XTI2DM
Front Brake Pad Set: amzn.to/45Og3HE
Rear Brake Pad Set: amzn.to/45Qp82O
Brake Hose/Line Pinch Pliers: amzn.to/41DkNO2
Breaker Bar: amzn.to/3EGxmxY
Torque wrench: amzn.to/3ZiRkH6
Bleed-O-Matic: amzn.to/3kvasTy
Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/3EEiwbi
*Amazon Affiliate Links*
Thank you for going over the tools needed for the job at the beginning. It amazes me how many instructional videos are out there were that don’t do this.
Thank you for watching and for the compliment!
Pro-Tip: A Flare Nut Wrench 🔧 is your friend! A must have tool for brake lines and the like. Extremely easy to round over or crush the brake line nut.
The calliper in the video is a Raybestos. The one in the Amazon link is a different lower quality brand.
Also thank you for putting this together. I haven’t done mine yet but this helps greatly.
Excellent video. Step by step instructions in a calm understandable voice. Two 👍
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Also thank you for the thumbs up I appreciate it!
GREAT TIP I LEARNED WORKING ON CARS YEARS AGO. You can use a flat head screw driver between the old rotor and the inside of the old pads before removing to press the pistons back in. This can be done with the frt. and rear calibers on just about any car truck or SUV.
Excellent video , very helpful. All steps clearly captured.
I’m glad you found the video helpful! Thank you for watching and please consider giving it a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
Great video
Great video. Exactly to the point. Thanks
Thank you for watching! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
The caliper you put in the description comes without bracket. Do we need one with the bracket??
65k miles and both of my front calipers seized up. Getting ready to install some Powerstop replacements with a fresh set of Z36 pads and their rotors. I’m bummed I only got 14k miles of the front set before the OEM calipers seized.
Perfect video 10/10
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
My new calipers came with a copper washer. Does that need to go in with the brake line?
where did you get the springs for the brakes? I only see springs that come with the bottom portion but the second spring wont fit on the top.
Hey! I have the same set of brake caliper on my 4runner for about 2 weeks now and noticed I’m having a leak Im just curious if it does the same to you?
Thanks ! My bro!
Thank you for watching, I’m glad it was helpful! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
Hey thanks for the videos. Would this process be the same for replacing the rear calipers as well?
The rear calipers are slightly different from the fronts but if you have done the fronts without issue the back calipers shouldn’t be a problem to replace. Hopefully this helps, thank you for watching!
Thank you so much for this video! Very clear and concise! How do you like the PowerStop pads so far versus OEM?
Thank you for watching I’m glad the video was helpful! Thanks for the compliment as well! So far I’ve been impressed with the PowerStop pads they seem to provide slightly better stopping performance, hopefully they last as long as the OEM pads. Thanks again for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
@@5MinuteFixit Right on! I love the OEM pads. I'm still on the original pads/rotors at 70k with no squealing/shaking (yet). Have you swapped out the rotors yet? If so, at what mileage? Thanks again for your time.
Can you just replace the pads without removing the caliper off of the rotor - slide them in and out?
It’s designed for that
Yes you can, thank you for watching!
Excellent video. But I do have to comment on the torquing method. It is best to stop on the first click and not to continue to tighten past that click. It may not hurt this situation but can be a stripping issue if it were made from aluminum.
I do appreciate this video.
Questions: do we change the brake fluid every time we change brakes, all of them sequentially?
You dont need to, its only recommended to change brake fluid every 3-5 years or anytime you change brake calipers.
Aye why do u got 2 of those clipy things I only had one and thought I lost one
Just did mine today, and it only has 1 of those triangle clip Aswell. never had the brake job done on this vehicle before, so I guess Toyota figured one is more than enough.
Hi, what year is your 4Runner, and is there something that can be done before, say with regular oil changes lubricate the caliper pistons to avoid seizing and having to replace them? thanks
There’s not too much to be done as far as preventing the calipers from seizing unless you took your brake pads off regularly and “worked” the pistons back and forth. I think its because I live in the “rust belt” that my 4Runner is more prone to these issues. It’s a 2014, thank you for watching and check out my other 4Runner maintenance videos if you are interested! Thank you!
@@5MinuteFixit this is the plan, take them off every other oil change and work them out and lubricate them. Also I just did exactly your procedure, replaced the calipers, got them off your amazon link, and all worked well. One change, I did not clamp the brake hose, it dripped out an ounce or two of fluid, but that is not a bad thing as that fluid is most contaminated and needed replaced anyway. Good that I checked the pistons, I am in GTA and rust is an issue. One of the pistons was pinched and rubber broken, a previous mechanic must have pinched it. It was just a matter of time until seized like yours, even though the car is barely 2020
Good on you for finding the issue with the rubber on the piston, I also like the tip about letting some fluid out and replacing with new! Thanks again!
If you must lubricate caliper pistons, do it with brake fluid only. If you do it with anything else, the brake fluid from the brake line which presses pistons against the brake pad will draw the lubricant back to the brake line and thus contaminate the brake fluid.
@@luccig1you cannot be serious. It takes roughly 8 years or 100k miles for the calipers to seize. A reman caliper is $125. All the time you spent "working the calipers" (which doesn't prevent the corrosion anyway) cost much than that in your labor.
How did you know the pad is seized? Was there a brake light on the dash?
It was the lower piston on the inside of the caliper that was seized, when trying to push the pistons out that one would not move. No lights on the dash. Thank you for watching! Please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
How do you know when you need a new caliper?
In my case when I tried to push in the caliper pistons the inside lower piston was seized. You could rebuild the caliper but in my case I opted to change the caliper out as it was a fairly inexpensive option. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank You!
Protip when bleeding the brakes fill the bottle the half way thats catching the fluid coming out then it wont suck in air. He clearly still had air in the line as he tightened it
I was wondering that as well. Was there still air on the line, or was he introducing air into the line when he was tightening the bleeder valve? 🤷🏻♂️
Marsha and the bears
Never clamp that brake hose.