to have two keys made by a lock smith is almost as expensive as buying the DEFU 368a. I guess I will buy the machine and make my own keys and a few at a seriously discounted rate and pay off the purchase of the machine. And start a new business in my retirement!!!
It's another case where "The Professional" priced himself out of a job. I bought a replacement key blank for my VW, and the locksmith I went to said: "We can't cut that kind of key now, because the guys that do them quit." Then: "We wouldn't cut keys on blanks bought through the internet, anyway." When I asked him why, he said: "Because those blanks break the cutting bits." Yeah, right. I didn't think "inferior" key blanks purchased through the internet were made out of titanium. Oh. I almost forgot. I am giving serious consideration to buying a key cutting machine like the one in the video, and save myself the trips, the begging, and price gouging for/from the locksmith.
@@lorenzoparedes2306 The real reason they won't cut them is because they can't program them. They'll charge you dealer pricing for a dealer cut key - and add on a surcharge for doing the work for you. When you're cutting a VW or BMW/RR/Mini/Merc/Audi key -> it's cheaper to do it yourself or find someone online to do it if you don't want to pay dealer prices.
@@kirvedx Your posting reinforces my previous statement, that "professional" locksmiths price themselves out of cutting such keys. There is someone else's comment on this thread, saying his "locksmith" broke 3 cutting bits on his key cutting machine while making a key on a key blank purchased on the internet. I know what process it would take to make tempered steel (my father was a machinist, who often sent machinery pieces out for heat treating AFTER precision machining) and I don't think Asian key blank manufacturers temper their blanks for hardness before shipping them out for distribution and sales. That would add to their costs, and it's illogical.
Thanks for watching the video! I'd imagine if you're using this several times a week then the motor and/or drive belt would fail after a while... but those are inexpensive parts. Even if the frame broke it could be tig welded or epoxied. What broke on yours and why did you choose to toss it as opposed to repairing it? In general, these machines are 5% to 8%% of the cost of a brand name machine so you're saving a couple thousand dollars with the Defu vs an XHorse/Keyline/An-San Panther/Futura/etc.
I recently bought one of these and the follower/right side springs upward when you push down...is that normal or did you adjust yours not to do that? I had them lined up per the "instructions" and ended up going through the blank.
Once you set the correct height of the milling bit and follower, you lock each bit down with the allen key. Neither of the shafts contain springs and, once locked with the allen bolt, neither should move within the shafts. If you cut through a blank then you either didnt have the correct height set, or the follower wasnt locked in place with the allen bolt. In my video i spend a minute showing how to do this between 2:40 and 3:40
@@djbmw1 Thanks, idk if something in mine is broken or not, but if I push the guide all the way in, it doesn't even stick out 1/3 of an inch. I'll mess with it more the next time I need to cut something. Thanks!
@@GeekDomTheOneToRuleThemAll the tube is nearly as long as the bits. The only thing holding the bit and follower in the tube is the set screw. First, insert the follower bit 1/3rd of the way into the tube and tighten the set screw - it should no longer move. If it does, your set screw threads are stripped. With the follower now locked in place, insert a milling bit into the other tube while that tube's set screw is loose. Slightly lower the arm above a flat section of the table so that both bits make contact with the same plane. Lock the arm in place with the small dial at the top left, preventing the bits and arm assembly from rising back up. Look carefully at your milling bit to ensure its making the same full contact that your follower bit is and adjust the milling bit as necessary. Tighten the allen set screw on your milling bit. Now loosen the top left knob to allow the arm and cutting assembly to rise back up.
@Geek-Dom Yup, there _is_ _most_ _certainly_ a spring in there (in the _right_-side / _follower_-side). The idea is simple: you want both bits to touch the top plane of the key (i.e. Don't have the follower bit touching the bottom of the cutting channel whilst the milling bit is barely touching the top plane of the blank blade. Instead, have both bits touching the top plane; go off to a side of the key blades or out of the existing key's channel to set the levels). Here's how to set the bits taking into consideration the spring-action tracer: *1.* Get your keys into their respective clamps. *2.* Put the bits into their appropriate stems *(a)* Milling bit into the *_left_* _facing from the front of the machine_ and *(b)* Tracer/Follower bit into the *_right_* _facing from the front of the machine._ While holding the bits in place with your hands you can lower the bit assembly enough to keep them in their stems by using the lever once you have them both in. Don't pull the bit assembly all the way down, and certainly make sure you haven't pulled into any of that spring action on the tracer bit side (you shouldn't be able to as you havent yet tightened the bits yet). *3.* Get both bits resting on a top uncut surface of each blade. *4.* Lower the lever down far enough that the tracer bit is about 2/3 of the way into its stem, 1/3 of it exposed. Use the knob on the left side of the machine to hold the bit assembly in place and tighten the _tracer_ bit into place. *_Do not yet tighten the cutting bit._* *5.* With your hand back on the lever, undo the knob on the left side holding the bit assembly in place. _Crank the lever further until the tracer bit reaches the end of its spring action_ - the indicator is that you won't be able to pull the lever any further. Use the knob on the left side of the machine again to hold the bit assembly in place. *6.* Tighten your milling bit into place. *7.* You're all set. I'd highly recommend that when you do point 6 -> that you use an ID card (drivers license) and put it under the milling bit, or you're going to end up cutting through the keyblade. With this configuration, you'll be able to get the tracer bit into the cut key's channel without worrying about the milling bit touching anything. The spring action lets you apply slight amounts of pressure to begin cutting, and you can use the knob on the left to set your depth and keep an even amount of pressure on the uncut blade. Its very precarious - and I don't like it at all. But yes, you are _absolutely_ correct -> I got mine a couple days ago and it most certainly _does_ have spring-action in the tracer-bit side - there're no stripped scews, the bit is firmly in place in the stem (the tracer bit). The way I figured it out was by destroying a blank and figuring out how much of a handicap I needed on the milling bit side (about an ID card's worth). Ideally it should work flawlessy so that your milling bit can't even touch the top of the key blank until you've put the tracer bit on the surface of the uncut portion of the original key and cranked through the entire spring-action.... Setting it the way I've instructed should put the cutting bit at the same depth as the tracer bit, _only when you have compressed through the spring action._ However, the milling bit spins fast and gets hot -> *_you will cut deeper and wider than the bit's physical size and location._* This is why you want to use a smaller bit and set it slightly further back than the tracer. Hope that helps to clarify!
Thanks for watching! It really depends on the depth of cut you need to make. If it's a very shallow cut then i'll set the depth, lock it in, and just manipulate the table/left lever. If, however, its a deeper cut that I need to do then I'll do a shallow cut on the first pass and then plunge it deeper on the second pass. At the end of the day you want to ensure you don't snap the mill bit or apply too much pressure to the machine so slow and steady wins the race.
Hi just cut me first va2 blade with this machine. I cut too deep and made a whole in one spot 🙈. I watched a few vids and set the drill and follow exactly the same. How could be?
It was likely that the key was not 100% flat in the jaws, resulting in a deep cut in only one spot on the key, and not the entire length. Its imperative to set the machine up correctly and do a 'dry run' before actually cutting. Since this is a manual machine, it's reliability and accuracy depends fully on the operator.
Does this machine come with the bits or do you have to buy them? Also, at 8:59 when you compare the keys they don't look identical. Did the keys work for the ignition?
Thanks for watching the video! The seller I bought mine from included a set of milling bits but I have since bought more. The keys I cut in the video were a perfect duplicate and worked well. As long as you line up the keys correctly it will make a perfect copy.
Its not made for it BUT, with a few wood shims, you can technically make a copy of a standard house key. If you're making more than a few house keys I would personally look into a different machine. This is great for copying laser cut and dimple keys though.
A 'car key' is not a universal cut. The Defu 368a is meant for Convex Pit, Snake, Cylindrical, Tubular, and Bead key profiles. With aftermarket jigs you can also cut many other styles/profiles.
Does your key also contain a transponder chip that requires programming? Most new cars lock the steering colum via a solenoid and pin, requiring a correctly programmed transponder to validate the key before unlocking. If your car is a 90's car then it wont have this... But most mid to high end cars started implementing transponder chip technology in the early 2000's
@@AnzarAnzar i understand that. If you have an immobilizer that is deactivated with a transponder chip then your key cylinder in the steering column might not unlock/spin. What year/make/model of car do you have?
if the KEY does not move in the ignition cylinder to the on position, I would say the key is not matching the mechanical pins to unlock. if the new keys open the passenger door lock, then it may be a electronic chip problem. reason is the wear and tear of the driver side may make it acceptable key to use but the ignition switch you have may have been replaced and tighter tolerance.
What? My first one turned out great. If you set the machine up correctly from the beginning then you will make a perfect copy. If you screw up the initial setup then of course your keys will be messed up. Luckily, I showed you how to set the machine up in my video :-p
Авто/Мото
Excellent instructional video. Thank you!
to have two keys made by a lock smith is almost as expensive as buying the DEFU 368a. I guess I will buy the machine and make my own keys and a few at a seriously discounted rate and pay off the purchase of the machine. And start a new business in my retirement!!!
That was my logic as well! I've also managed to cut standard house keys even though the 368a isn't meant for that.
It's another case where "The Professional" priced himself out of a job. I bought a replacement key blank for my VW, and the locksmith I went to said: "We can't cut that kind of key now, because the guys that do them quit." Then: "We wouldn't cut keys on blanks bought through the internet, anyway." When I asked him why, he said: "Because those blanks break the cutting bits." Yeah, right. I didn't think "inferior" key blanks purchased through the internet were made out of titanium.
Oh. I almost forgot. I am giving serious consideration to buying a key cutting machine like the one in the video, and save myself the trips, the begging, and price gouging for/from the locksmith.
@@lorenzoparedes2306 The real reason they won't cut them is because they can't program them. They'll charge you dealer pricing for a dealer cut key - and add on a surcharge for doing the work for you. When you're cutting a VW or BMW/RR/Mini/Merc/Audi key -> it's cheaper to do it yourself or find someone online to do it if you don't want to pay dealer prices.
@@kirvedx Your posting reinforces my previous statement, that "professional" locksmiths price themselves out of cutting such keys.
There is someone else's comment on this thread, saying his "locksmith" broke 3 cutting bits on his key cutting machine while making a key on a key blank purchased on the internet. I know what process it would take to make tempered steel (my father was a machinist, who often sent machinery pieces out for heat treating AFTER precision machining) and I don't think Asian key blank manufacturers temper their blanks for hardness before shipping them out for distribution and sales. That would add to their costs, and it's illogical.
@@lorenzoparedes2306 Yes, I was reinforcing your comment - and adding some excuse and behavior of a locksmith near me that couldn't cut my key for me.
Purchased one of these machines, on the scrap heap 3 months later. Go for a second-hand quality machine would be my advice.
Thanks for watching the video! I'd imagine if you're using this several times a week then the motor and/or drive belt would fail after a while... but those are inexpensive parts. Even if the frame broke it could be tig welded or epoxied. What broke on yours and why did you choose to toss it as opposed to repairing it? In general, these machines are 5% to 8%% of the cost of a brand name machine so you're saving a couple thousand dollars with the Defu vs an XHorse/Keyline/An-San Panther/Futura/etc.
Perfekt
I recently bought one of these and the follower/right side springs upward when you push down...is that normal or did you adjust yours not to do that? I had them lined up per the "instructions" and ended up going through the blank.
Once you set the correct height of the milling bit and follower, you lock each bit down with the allen key. Neither of the shafts contain springs and, once locked with the allen bolt, neither should move within the shafts. If you cut through a blank then you either didnt have the correct height set, or the follower wasnt locked in place with the allen bolt. In my video i spend a minute showing how to do this between 2:40 and 3:40
@@djbmw1 Thanks, idk if something in mine is broken or not, but if I push the guide all the way in, it doesn't even stick out 1/3 of an inch. I'll mess with it more the next time I need to cut something. Thanks!
@@GeekDomTheOneToRuleThemAll the tube is nearly as long as the bits. The only thing holding the bit and follower in the tube is the set screw. First, insert the follower bit 1/3rd of the way into the tube and tighten the set screw - it should no longer move. If it does, your set screw threads are stripped. With the follower now locked in place, insert a milling bit into the other tube while that tube's set screw is loose. Slightly lower the arm above a flat section of the table so that both bits make contact with the same plane. Lock the arm in place with the small dial at the top left, preventing the bits and arm assembly from rising back up. Look carefully at your milling bit to ensure its making the same full contact that your follower bit is and adjust the milling bit as necessary. Tighten the allen set screw on your milling bit. Now loosen the top left knob to allow the arm and cutting assembly to rise back up.
@Geek-Dom Yup, there _is_ _most_ _certainly_ a spring in there (in the _right_-side / _follower_-side). The idea is simple: you want both bits to touch the top plane of the key (i.e. Don't have the follower bit touching the bottom of the cutting channel whilst the milling bit is barely touching the top plane of the blank blade. Instead, have both bits touching the top plane; go off to a side of the key blades or out of the existing key's channel to set the levels).
Here's how to set the bits taking into consideration the spring-action tracer:
*1.* Get your keys into their respective clamps.
*2.* Put the bits into their appropriate stems *(a)* Milling bit into the *_left_* _facing from the front of the machine_ and *(b)* Tracer/Follower bit into the *_right_* _facing from the front of the machine._ While holding the bits in place with your hands you can lower the bit assembly enough to keep them in their stems by using the lever once you have them both in. Don't pull the bit assembly all the way down, and certainly make sure you haven't pulled into any of that spring action on the tracer bit side (you shouldn't be able to as you havent yet tightened the bits yet).
*3.* Get both bits resting on a top uncut surface of each blade.
*4.* Lower the lever down far enough that the tracer bit is about 2/3 of the way into its stem, 1/3 of it exposed. Use the knob on the left side of the machine to hold the bit assembly in place and tighten the _tracer_ bit into place. *_Do not yet tighten the cutting bit._*
*5.* With your hand back on the lever, undo the knob on the left side holding the bit assembly in place. _Crank the lever further until the tracer bit reaches the end of its spring action_ - the indicator is that you won't be able to pull the lever any further. Use the knob on the left side of the machine again to hold the bit assembly in place.
*6.* Tighten your milling bit into place.
*7.* You're all set. I'd highly recommend that when you do point 6 -> that you use an ID card (drivers license) and put it under the milling bit, or you're going to end up cutting through the keyblade.
With this configuration, you'll be able to get the tracer bit into the cut key's channel without worrying about the milling bit touching anything. The spring action lets you apply slight amounts of pressure to begin cutting, and you can use the knob on the left to set your depth and keep an even amount of pressure on the uncut blade.
Its very precarious - and I don't like it at all.
But yes, you are _absolutely_ correct -> I got mine a couple days ago and it most certainly _does_ have spring-action in the tracer-bit side - there're no stripped scews, the bit is firmly in place in the stem (the tracer bit). The way I figured it out was by destroying a blank and figuring out how much of a handicap I needed on the milling bit side (about an ID card's worth).
Ideally it should work flawlessy so that your milling bit can't even touch the top of the key blank until you've put the tracer bit on the surface of the uncut portion of the original key and cranked through the entire spring-action.... Setting it the way I've instructed should put the cutting bit at the same depth as the tracer bit, _only when you have compressed through the spring action._
However, the milling bit spins fast and gets hot -> *_you will cut deeper and wider than the bit's physical size and location._* This is why you want to use a smaller bit and set it slightly further back than the tracer.
Hope that helps to clarify!
@@kirvedxthank you for this pro tip. Very insightful.
Excellent....is your right hand pulling down constantly on the right handle or are you resting it on the side of the box?
Thanks for watching! It really depends on the depth of cut you need to make. If it's a very shallow cut then i'll set the depth, lock it in, and just manipulate the table/left lever. If, however, its a deeper cut that I need to do then I'll do a shallow cut on the first pass and then plunge it deeper on the second pass. At the end of the day you want to ensure you don't snap the mill bit or apply too much pressure to the machine so slow and steady wins the race.
@djbmw1 Thank you for responding so fast!!
Hi just cut me first va2 blade with this machine. I cut too deep and made a whole in one spot 🙈. I watched a few vids and set the drill and follow exactly the same. How could be?
It was likely that the key was not 100% flat in the jaws, resulting in a deep cut in only one spot on the key, and not the entire length. Its imperative to set the machine up correctly and do a 'dry run' before actually cutting. Since this is a manual machine, it's reliability and accuracy depends fully on the operator.
Does this machine come with the bits or do you have to buy them? Also, at 8:59 when you compare the keys they don't look identical. Did the keys work for the ignition?
Thanks for watching the video! The seller I bought mine from included a set of milling bits but I have since bought more. The keys I cut in the video were a perfect duplicate and worked well. As long as you line up the keys correctly it will make a perfect copy.
@@djbmw1 what about followers? does it come with them?
@@Dillon.... yes, it came with a set of follower bits of varying thicknesses
Hi, can you copy regular household keys with this machine?
Its not made for it BUT, with a few wood shims, you can technically make a copy of a standard house key. If you're making more than a few house keys I would personally look into a different machine. This is great for copying laser cut and dimple keys though.
@@djbmw1 yes if you get the correct holder, I just cut some SC-1 use the 1.5 endmill
Machine rate
Is it 110volt & 220 volt please let me know
You can purchase either (and i believe you can re-wire it yourself if you want). The one that I purchased is 110v with a North American plug.
Is this only suitable for car keys
A 'car key' is not a universal cut. The Defu 368a is meant for Convex Pit, Snake, Cylindrical, Tubular, and Bead key profiles. With aftermarket jigs you can also cut many other styles/profiles.
@@djbmw1 Thanks for clarifying
Hi where ca n I get bits for this machine
Aliexpress has a ton of sellers for milling bits,.. And there's a few overpriced ones on Amazon and ebay as well.
Quanto custa essa maquina
It was around $170 Canadian shipped to my door. Check on Aliexpress though as prices are always changing.
Hello, I also have the same machine when I bought it I tried it but unfortunately the two new keys open the car doors but not the engine,Any advice?
Does your key also contain a transponder chip that requires programming? Most new cars lock the steering colum via a solenoid and pin, requiring a correctly programmed transponder to validate the key before unlocking. If your car is a 90's car then it wont have this... But most mid to high end cars started implementing transponder chip technology in the early 2000's
@@djbmw1 The problem is that the key doesn't turn around in the engine.
@@AnzarAnzar i understand that. If you have an immobilizer that is deactivated with a transponder chip then your key cylinder in the steering column might not unlock/spin. What year/make/model of car do you have?
if the KEY does not move in the ignition cylinder to the on position, I would say the key is not matching the mechanical pins to unlock. if the new keys open the passenger door lock, then it may be a electronic chip problem. reason is the wear and tear of the driver side may make it acceptable key to use but the ignition switch you have may have been replaced and tighter tolerance.
You need 4 key blanks to get it right. Not worth it.
What? My first one turned out great. If you set the machine up correctly from the beginning then you will make a perfect copy. If you screw up the initial setup then of course your keys will be messed up. Luckily, I showed you how to set the machine up in my video :-p
I also want to buy this machine, but for a side job that I can do, I would like to make house keys, is this suitable for it?
Absolutely - with a $18 add on. Check out how i cut house keys with it here ruclips.net/video/R3T9TkGWdv4/видео.html