Is Upgrading your Ender 3 worth it?
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- Опубликовано: 28 май 2024
- Most Ender 3 upgrade videos don’t tell you how much time the upgrades end up taking! This one does - Sponsored by pcbway.com/g/QHeJC5 Check them for PCB Manufacturing, CNC Machining, 3D Printing and more.
See How it Started: • This One Print took me...
📷 Instagram: / attemptedmaker
👉 Printables: www.printables.com/@Attempted...
🔨 My Sprite SE Cable Guide: www.printables.com/model/6630...
⚙️ Other Models Featured in this Video
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:474...
Raspberry Pi Case: www.printables.com/model/1062...
Humpback Fan Module: www.printables.com/model/2530...
V-Slot Covers: www.thingiverse.com/thing:457...
Ultimate Ender 3 Bed Leveling Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:474...
TheBuildBay Cable Guide: thangs.com/designer/TheBuildB...
🎥 Channels Featured in this Video:
@FilamentFriday
• Upgrade Ender 3 Neo Ho...
🎬 Chapters in this Video
0:00 - Intro
1:06 - Name
1:36 - LED Light Bar
2:07 - Side Spool Mount
3:02 - Capricorn Tubing
4:14 - Bi-Metal Heat Break
6:14 - Octoprint and Octolapse
8:04 - Raspberry Pi Case (Sponsored)
8:56 - V-Slot Covers
9:42 - Dual Z-Axis Upgrade Kit
10:40 - Anti-Backlash Nuts
10:59 - Bed Upgrades
12:13 - Professional Firmware MRiscoC
13:32 - More Bed Upgrades
14:02 - Direct Drive Extruder
14:41 - Cable Guides (Insanely Unnecessary)
16:27 - Whatever this thing is
#AttemptedMaker #EmbraceTheJank #FiguringItOutAsIGo
💼 Business Contact: attemptedscott@gmail.com
About:
This Video shows most of the modifications I installed on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. It includes the difficulties I had installing them and roughly how long the upgrades took. 
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Thank you, finally someone who is actually showing how much time you sometimes waste with upgrading!
Thanks Dave! That was the idea. But I think the time wasted making this video tops them all 🤣
FINALLY a video that truly shows the "dark" side of 3d printer tweaking. Sure, it's satisfying to successfully implement upgrades to your printer, and see tangible results from your tinkering, but holy HELL is the journey there not always sunshine & rainbows.
😄 "The Dark Side". I get what you mean though. When you watch most of these videos, it feels like you're the only dumbass that screws it up. So I made one for the rest of us.
From my experience as an Ender 3 owner, here are the top 10 most printed models, by type: #1: Test prints. #2 through #5: More test prints. #6 through #9: Printer mods to get better test prints. #10: cool models. As the old saying goes, owning an inexpensive printer means tinkering with the printer *is* the hobby. The upside is you now have a much better understanding of how printers work, and how to repair them! Wrap yourself in the cloak of power that knowledge grants you while all those other fancy people with their expensive printers are just cranking out models with no real comprehension of how or why their printers work. Seriously though, the difficult road is often the most rewarding!
Thanks Tim! Yeah I hear you. For the few people that ask me what printer they should get, I ask are you into 3D Printing or 3D Printers? I do think the stuff you learn tinkering builds skill that open up your options of what you can make.
I completely agree. When I started with 3D printing somewhere in 2016, the only affordable 3D printers where the DIY acrylic kits. To say those things needed a LOT of tinkering is really an understatement. But as you said, you learn a lot. When the first Ender 3 where released, they where a huge improvement (the first Ender 3 was also a kit that you had to put together yourself). I also learned to write my own firmware, and tweak existing firmware (it's nice to have some programming background).
Fast forward to today, and now we have the latest Ender 3 model, that you put together in mere minutes, and has direct drive, an really good working auto leveling, and of course silent stepper drivers and more nice stuff. Almost no tweaking needed.
As I have a lot of hobby's and projects it becomes harder to put much time in tweaking a 3D printer. For example: I have restored my very first computer, a Cosmac Super Elf, to full working order and I am now working to do the same to my second first computer, an Acorn Atom. I also do Holograpy, using laser equipment and holographic emulsion (a lot of stuff for setups is also 3D printed). On top of that I also dabble in Music creation (I use Bitwig), and you see I running a bit out of time to put in tweaking a 3D printer. So I broke down an bought a Bambulab printer. I still would like to do that tweaking, but I simply have not much time to do so. Still - It was a really tough choice between the Bambulab A1 mini and the latest model Ender 3. Both are reliable and get the job done, but wanting to try out another brand finally was what made my choice.
Hey men, what a great video, if you have edited the video by yourself, you have my very deep respect, your video have one of the smoothest transitions of all 3d printing related videos. Go on, you are doing fantastically, you're going to go very far.
IMHO this isn't all bad. As a software engineer, I get a fair number of questions from interested young people about "What should I write, though?" That's the problem, isn't it? Low-end 3d printers provide a TON of built-in problem-solving, plus a community to provide frustratingly-close-but-not-quite suggestions. It's like real work, except you know the problem is solvable.
Dual-Z isn't for z-wobble(if anything it could make it worse by adding more over-constraints). It's to get rid of inconsistent layer-heights across the distance of the x-gantry. The gantry itself is a giant springy cantilever held up by V-rollers that deform under pressure. The way the rollers are tweaked, can help address this, but the heavier you make the extruder(direct drive) the worse the problem gets, then you have to make the rollers tighter.. things bind more.. they would wear out prematurely, skipped z-steps from excessive friction..
I got the sprite extruder pro for my V2 Neo, installed it and only then realized the geniuses at Creality had moved the X axis endstop from where it was on the V2. Ended up having to ziptie it onto the extrusion and angle it with a bit of plastic underneath it so the plate on the new extruder could actually hit it. Then I had to print a new mounting solution for it, which turned out not to work, because Creality also decided that the clicker PCB would no longer need screw holes that all these designs relied on, finally ended up finding one where you can slide it into place and got everything working again. On the bright side, now I'll be able to print with PETG
I love how my ender 3 is just a tinker project, pretty fun in it's own right
Absolutely. If I could do upgrades but also not take it out of commission for a week that'd be perfect 😅
@@AttemptedMaker sounds like a job for a second printer...
Glad to see me featured in your Printables screen shots! You gained a sub Sir 😊!
Haha Cool! From a review or did you design something? Thanks!
Oh good just did that today I’m scared now
I saw my thumbnail in here haha. Another excellent, dynamic and honest video, Scott. The PEI plate is still one of my favourite upgrades, I just love it. Silicone spacers are a must too; With an ABL sometimes I just hardmount the bed though. My 3 favourite mods are definitely an ABL probe, PEI plate and a new mainboard with silent drivers at the minimum assuming the printer does not have these already. Nice job with the parts you designed too! I really gotta try PCBWay's titanium printing, it looks insane, I just need the right part... All the best. Cheers, Tommy.
Haha Yeah Dude, right on top. Yeah PEI sheet has actually been great - easiest upgrade too. I've found with spacers and those wheels that lock it, I've not really had any movement on the bed... yet. Yeah I want to shine up that titanium part, I didn't have time for the video but it should be fun. It's a lot heavier than PLA tho :D. Thanks Man, as always looking forward to your next vid.
The only mod i did on my ender 3 v2 neo is a filament guide to make feeding the filament from the top more consistent as it makes a 75° bend otherwise. I've replaced snapped belts as well and changed nozzles but that has been powering my 3d printer to make some cool knick knacks and special storage cases for my junk
I had a Ender 3 OG never upgraded and got better prints than lot of people that had upgraded lots of parts. With this printers you need to calibrate them a lot
You got those OG Ender skills. Respect. I think I'm mainly just impatient.
@@AttemptedMaker I had to learn to calibrate my ender 3 was because at the time the only upgrades we had were the yellow springs, metal extruder and use mirror or glass for the bed.
I moved to resin printing a long time ago but if I bought a new filament printer. I want something that works from the start and does not have to lost time upgrading.
I can totally relate to your adventure with an Ender 3D printer! It's like a never-ending quest for the perfect 3D printing setup. I mean, who knew that a simple printer could lead to a full-blown upgrade obsession? It's like the Ender 3 is the ultimate DIY project that just keeps on giving.
I can picture you there, tinkering away and muttering to yourself, "Just one more upgrade, and it'll be perfect!" It's like a never-ending cycle of upgrades and modifications. But hey, that's where all the fun is, right? Who needs a Prusa when you can Frankenstein a V6 volcano onto your Ender 3 and create a 3D printing monster?
And let's not forget about all those spare parts lying around. It's like a 3D printing treasure trove just waiting to be turned into another Ender 3. It's like a never-ending loop of 3D printing adventures!
But hey, at the end of the day, all those upgrades and modifications are totally worth it. I have no doubt that your Ender 3 will perform like a champ once you're done. Keep on printing, my friend, and may your Ender 3 adventures continue for many more upgrades to come!
You should really give Klipper a shot.
Klipper is great. I can waste more time even faster now ;)
(seriously though it is a huge improvement, the sonicpad is actually a pretty decent setup for creality machines)
Oh yeah, I've seen the sonic pad... and the single printer version that came out... I forget the name. You think it's worth it?
@AttemptedMaker I have the same Ender as you and with the sonicpad my prints are over 3x faster. In addition to the improvements to printing speed it gives you the web interface for webcams, uploading (from in your slicer) and starting prints like octoprint does, but with simpler setup. Also it's convenient to easily backup your config files etc..
Rick Impey on RUclips has a great getting started with the sonic pad tutorial series that goes into lots of detail.
One catch the part cooling at higher speeds needs a bigger fan look up Compact Neo Solo for a shroud that can hold a 5015 fan (cheap) and prints in PLA just fine.
Overall I think it's a very high value upgrade.
@@AttemptedMaker You don't need the speeder pad to use klipper on your ender. You can just use the same pi you're currently using for octoprint and you use a touchscreen just like the speeder pad by getting any raspberry touch screen tho it's not necessary if you just use the web dashboard.
Totally worth it… you can change config so easily just by editing a text file then clicking save! I’ve only just dived down the rabbit hole and never going back to marlin! Not got an ender, but I’m running it on a Rook MK1 and it’s sweet!
This is a great video as it perfectly captures how my printing experience has been with my Ender 3 V2. I calibrated it when it was stock and had amazing first prints. Then i decided to "upgrade" and it got worse and then better again. Repeat that cycle a few times, especially with installing klipper. Now I have all the parts for the belted dual z mod and I'm thinking i should print some stuff while the printer is working before I mess it up again.
okay the edition in this video is soo cool, I'm looking at 3d printing stuff as a hobby to distract from my video editing job and now I watch this and go "whooo I wanna do that cool effect"
this video sums up my exact exp with an ender 3 clone printer..... well done!
Thanks man, I'm glad it clicked with you.
For the bed leveling, it might be your slicer
The auto-home instruction disables it - so you need to re-enable it.
I use the following bit in my start G-Code:
G28 ; auto-home
G29 ; build auto-level mesh
M420 S1 ; auto-bed leveling
Awesome video! Exceptional quality from such a new channel! Happy to subscribe
Thanks Mate! Appreciate it.
I wasted so much time and filament with the bed leveling that I'm sure that I made back the time I lost installing my CR-Touch. I also love my PEI bed and dual gear extruder. Those are the upgrades that made a difference, not in print quality but in reliability.
Another great video! Loved how you highlighted each upgrade between shots. I also love my Bambu A1 even more now haha.
Haha thanks mate
I've spend hours on my ender 3. From small thing like a new board to a massive overhaul, i spend at least 2 or 3 times the cost of the printed in upgrade.
Is that worth it ? Hell no.
The machine worked fine before, but it's amazing to thinker with it, if you omit the hours of rage and frustration.
But i love my Klipper Ender 3, with direct drive and double Z, the machine give me the passion for making machine by myself, i can't imagine buying something else than a kit now, love building my cnc and laser, that was the best machine for me.
Love your content, keep it up!
Thanks mate 😁
To run autobedleveling on ender 3s you usually have to put m420 s1 in the gcode start up in the printer settings of the slicer
Mine started auto levelling at the start of every print when I switched to Prusa slicer.
Very nice video!
Thanks! It took way longer than I would like to admit 😅
Nice Video, i have two i3 Clones build as Kit, two Ender 3 v1, a Tronxy and a Bambu Lab X1C.
The Ender 3 pro with the damaged Motherboard is now rebuilded as a Voron Switchblade Clone.
The other Ender 3 got all the Electronics upgrades etc. Just did a 20 hours rebuild on it.
For the Springs: The most common use for the Springs the Bed and reduce the need for Manuell Bed leveling. So either Clicky Wheels or Springs, both is overupgrading.
The Side Spool is for reducing friction on the Bowden Drive, the first series of Ender 3 even had problems with PLA eating into the Plastik of the Feeder. So Guide Arm and Wheels are not uncommon for this Reason.
Syncronised Dual Z-Axis: It prevents the loosing of the rollers on the non Axis side. Together with a BL-Touch Ender 3 results in awefull results. So either tensioning the Rollers regularly or Dual Z-Axis.
For the Firmware Problem: Which Motherboard do you have ? What do i mean by which Motherboard?
When this is a Ender 3 V2 Neo then you have mose likely a 4.2.7 Motherboard or the older 4.2.2. But which Stepper Driver is on it? There is most likely a Letter Marking on the Card Reader Slot. H is the lucky Letter as it has the TMC 2225 Steppers. Search for: "Klipper Discourse Group Creality Board 4.2.2 Schematics " There you find a full guide which Stepperdrivers you have, which Board you have. It is a can of worms and there are about 6 different or more Varients of this Boards around. Searched 4 hours till i got the BL-Touch on my Working Ender 3 Board running.
One Upgrade is missing: New rollers. The Bearings of the standard Rollers are open, there are heavy duty rollers out there, which costs not much more but have a cover over the bearings which prevents dusts and microplastik destroying the Bearings.
I said that i rebuilded one Ender 3 v1. It is now on the Specs of a Ender 3 V2, as it had the 4.2.2 board with TMC 2225 Drivers and now Bl-Touch, but still has the old stile Display. It got a lot of Upgrades now and it can print as well as my Bambu Lab X1C. For about 4 hours, then it needs to be recalibrated.
For a Beginner i would recommend something like the Bambu Lab A1 or A1 mini. For the Cheap Ender 3v3 no 3v2. The 3v3 Lineage has linear Rails for the Bed, which are much much much better and more durable. The Bed-Rollers are the most common failure Point for Cheap Bedslingers. The Ender 3v3 SE is costs less then 5% more then a 3v2 Neo, but will last longer and print better. But watch for the differences in Hotend etc.
Yeah ... that matches my Ender 3 hobby experience ... The Bambu P1S is just the opposite: set it up, slice with the available presets and everything has come out fine so far. Great to print more parts for my Ender 3 and other tinkering printers ;-)
Yeah those Bambu Lab printers are looking pretty tempting
Yeah I started with a microcenter ender 3, spent ages never getting the bed leveling mod to work right, and then grabbed a bambu A1 mini. Bed leveling that works right fresh out of the box is gonna be a must-have for most people. My ender 3 is mostly gathering dust ever since the bambu came home.
I assume Creality has some printers with built in bed leveling too. Just not the old ender 3.
Awesome video! I'm fed up with ender 3 v2 and S1 Pro. Total time wasters, I'm getting an X1C or P1S soon.
Two years ago? Maybe worth it to compete against a Prusa Mk3.
Then Bambu dropped a bomb on the industry and everyone is in a mad scramble to keep up and throwing everything at the wall to see what sticks.
Upgrading a 10yo design printer makes zero sense these days when current models already have the low hanging fruit done for pennies.
These are some generalized opinions, not just for an ender 3:
Light bar: can be extremely useful, good mod for any printer, i used to have a desktop led lamp just over my printer for a long time before attaching some led strips permanently
Alternate spool mounts: sometimes unnecessary, but in the case of an ender 3 type machine, this is superior for the bowden setup assuming you have the space, it is still better to have it on top if you go for direct drive though
Better bowden tubes: makes sense for a bowden setup, otherwise not worth
Bi-metal heat breaks: they serve their purpose, you can get away with just a single material full metal one with no issues though
Octoprint: IMO, if you're connecting a computer (like a pi) to your printer anyways, i'd highly recommend going the extra step and just switching to klipper firmware, you can gain so much more compared to just uploading gcode over the network, and having a video feed
pi case: i wouldn't consider this a separate mod, but a part of the previous one where you add the computer, however it's an important part of doing it
Vslot covers: not really my thing, but useful if you don't like cleaning your printer since they sometimes help blocking debris getting into the slots
multi z axis: if you have a bed leveling sensor, this is amazing, if not, really depends if your prints are turning up fine or not (dimensionally)
anti-backlash nuts: yes, use them, always
Buildplates: they are a wear and tear item to begin with, even when they seem fine, they lose their stick over time, so a new print surface is a must eventually
Tactile bed leveling: really only makes sense if you have large bed leveling knobs, if your printer doesn't fit large wheels, you don't get enough precision when leveling
Silicone bed springs: haven't tried them myself, my springs have been great so far (4 years of printing)
Direct drive: yes, it's amazing, i'm never going back to bowden
Cable guides: always a good idea if your printer doesn't have a decent solution for them
Overall, not a bad choice of mods, i would've done it a bit differently, but that's the beauty of 3d printers, you can do whatever you want hah
If you want to waste even more time, upgrade to klipper and get find a compatible smart plug that you can use with moonraker.
Its going to take time and you will fight it, I haven't even done the fancy speed tuning like every ytuber does. I mainly use it because the bed levelling works and I can fire prints off from the web interface, the printer turns on, prints and then turns off all without me interacting with it. there was a octoprint plugin for it but it I haven't used it in years.
every upgrade i've made has just been me spending 10x more time trying to get the machine to work as well as it used to do before I touched it.
Hotend upgrades were great because it just meant that i'd break the thermistor or the heating cartridge and have to wait ages for a replacement.
It crossed my mind when I was looking into firmware. It looks pretty intimidating... but I do like the sound of functioning bed leveling.
Haha yeah, I didn't even mention the money I've thrown at this in the video 😅
@@AttemptedMaker There is a learning curve but its worth never having to recompile the firmware
upgrading and learning is the muhfuggin fun part. duh
do you really want your bltouch to work ? are you prepared to sacrafice a few things ?
easy way , install klipper and start from scratch
hard way, custom marlin yourself so the pin layouts are correct ?
For Ender 3 v2 the only must-have mod is upgrading extruder (this cheap, Chinese, red aluminium dual-gear works great), as stock are faulty and crack over the time. Also it's worth getting better springs for the bed to care less about bed-leveling, they are very cheap and save you a lot of time.
Well, for me also dual Z-axis was mandatory as my printer out of stock came with a bit wonky / not square frame and only dual Z-axis helped a bit, well actually a lot (yeah googled for this issue and followed many tutorials, it was frame's not assembly's fault)
Overall: just print and enjoy and take care about the planet by not printing too much unnecessary garbage 😁
I'm curious if you got a lazy susan just for this video, if so totally worth it. The shots with the upgrades highlighted are amazing. I also struggle to not get reduced quality prints while using octolapse. If you set the print head to be above the print when the photo is taken the print quality is much better but then you don't have the magic print growing effect. Anyway another great video!
You know I did 🤣 I got a cheap one and crossed my fingers it wouldn't die before I got the spinning printer shots I needed.
Yeah, Octolapse is definitely better and less cool with that 'snap to' trigger. Thanks man!
man after two years or so the only upgrades that I installed on my ender3 v2 is a side spool mount and the vslot covers. niw though im probably gonna be upgrading to a full metal hotend as i needed it to print using PET filament.
Have you added the GCODE to your start code to actually use the bed levelling info? I was using CURA on my Ender 3 and didn't have that code on so, for almost a year, I was not actually using the levelling info, despite doing a level in Professional Firmware with the CR Touch before every print.
Can I recommend the Raspberry Pi zero? You can get several (I have) for the price of a proper Pi and use them to not get around to doing several cool things.
I bought a Prusa (after owning my Ender 3 S1 Pro) so that I could tinker with the Ender and print with the Prusa 🤣 also I bought a Pi 5 - which is not compatible with octoprint so I had to buy a Pi 4 (even more wasted time). I had an issue with stringing so I designed dry boxes, but then I needed a place to put them above the printers so I built a wooden cabinet. All this to say you are very correct about time, but that is the hobbie!
When you make a functional print that looks stunning there is no better feeling
Do not stop making content, you have a real talent and passion that is refreshing (a lot of printing RUclipsrs just do printing reviews these days)
Hey there!
I've been tinkering a lot lately with a 3d printer and have set up my firmware multiple times by now (about 5 weeks ago I was a complete beginner too...). But after a lot of tinkering and configuring I got everything set up for my needs and it works perfectly now.
So: what have you done already to get the bed mesh leveling to work? Have you already tried to flash the firmware and configure Marlin by yourself and not just use a preset? What type of sensor do you have?
If you say, what you've tried so far, I might be able to help.
Cheers
Hay man! Thanks for reaching out. I've not done my own config of Marlin cos I've been using 'Professional Firmware'. Honestly I figured it would be the easier route - especially because there is a community around it. I don't think I'll be going that route anytime soon either, cos I want to actually use my printer 😆.
Tho if you're still interested. I've confirmed that my frame and bed are all good, no physical issues. I've dialed in my Nozzle Probe X,Y offset (and Z obviously). Confirmed that my G-Code is all correct to load the mesh at the beginning of the print.
Basically it prints too close in the back left and too high in the front right. If I do a 3 x 3 mesh and dial them in manually, it loads the mesh and prints great, but for whatever reason it probes them incorrectly.
@@AttemptedMaker Are you sure you don't want to configure it yourself? It is pretty easy... And since there are so many profiles preconfigured for pretty much any Ender, you should not have any problems with finding a starting point and just adjusting it to your needs...
I would definitively give it a try just to see whether the problem lies here.
when started. (I was picked it up as a hobby) I didn't want an ender because of all the suggested/required modding around it.
I was already tasking myself with learning modelling and slicing. Adding on learning hardware would of been too much.
Entry level printer, reliable, just start making stuff.
That's the truth eh, learning how to make stuff is enough on it's own!
I got an ender 3 v2 and I got some thoughts:
-a bi-metal heatbreak has been working fine, it was the cheapest I found on aliexpress
-I never understood the benefits of octoprint so never tried
-v-slot covers are such a stupid mod, I also printed them and they didn't fit and I hammered them in and broke some
-dual-z axis motors was a good investment, because I also printed a direct drive mod (printhead is heavy)
-I got a thick thermal insulation on the bed and it hit the stepper motor too :DDD I just trimmed it
-there was some reason I got the silicone spacers, maybe it was related to the BLtouch I installed?
-custom firmware was necessary for the BLtouch
Overall I think this video is great, very relatable :D
I’ve spent double on upgrades than I paid for the stupid thing at the start. Sonic Pad, Orbiter V2, CR touch, PEI sheet, the LED light bar and dual z-axis kit. Don’t care, still love the machine as I modify everything I buy anyways . But, my Kingroon KP3S Pro ($125) and a Quadra for Klipper is just better all around. Now I crave the Infimech TX.
With ender 3 v2 with bl touch , i am using the UBL mesh gcode examples that are with marlin's firmware. I will try and link them in a bit. It works for me though and i also bought the printer second hand , with bl touch and with no previous knowledge of anything "3d printers" i figured everything out the same day . Because i had in my mind to upgrade it before i even got it.
Thank God for that because i installed dual z screw because the gantry was hitting the print before it every time it moved because it travelled through the print and was crooked without the second z axis.
The previous owner had installed some things wrong, some wires had been melted etc and it helped that i remade the whole thing.
So anyway i at least learned how to disassemble and maintain it from the start.
I would post my start gcode if it helps.
Here is my GCODE for the UBL BLtouch Firmware Mriscoc For my ENDER 3 V2.
it might be wrong but it works for me.
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer] ; set final bed temp
M104 S200 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
G28 ; home all axis
G29 P1
G29 P3
G29 F10
G29 S1
G29 A
G29 L1
M500
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2 Y10 F3000
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; set final nozzle temp
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer] ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 F5000
G92 E0
G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
Very funny. You had me at Ender 3
Uh, hey, dry your filament. Like really. Then you won't get all that stringing and those branches. And your dual-z/anti-backlash nuts probably improved the accuracy of your first few layer heights. If you're going to bother with firmware, and you have a pi already hooked up, just skip to Klipper, it's just better. Makes doing further upgrades a lot easier.
Thanks for your advice man. Good to know about the anti-backlash nuts. That filament should be pretty dry still but I do have a dryer so will make sure it's dry.
@@AttemptedMaker in my experience brand new PLA is often wetter than it would be after drying it and leaving it on the shelf in the open for months.
thus proving fot some poeaple a p1p or p1s is the right way to go but at least you kno your 3d printer now
Yeah 100% I did enjoy learning. But if I get another one it will for sure be something like a Bambulab
Who said you could be in my brain?
I did some mild uprades to my ender 3.. none of them made any actual difference.. What would have made a difference is investing the upgrade money in a faster printer in the first place.. because the print time and the noise level are the things that are actually not making me use the printer..
So about the auto bed leveling.. I leveled the bed once when I got the printer and that was it. I never had to redo it, so why is it so important for people?
Because they monkey with their printers! Joking aside, if you move your printer,change materials or have slop or looseness anywhere it’s going to drift! Mine experience has been if you get it right, don’t move it and it’s somewhere temperate, you might just get lucky like us!
And this is why if I ever bought a new printer to replace my 5 year old Ender 3 it will be a Bambulabs one. 😂
W video
I did just one upgrade for my Ender-3 - and id DOUBLED my print speed! What was it? Oh - another Ender-3...
🤣
Haha dude I feel this I picked up a used ender 3 pro and it worked as is. Then. I decided to mod it and hasn’t worked right since
Haha same old story 🤣
@@AttemptedMaker i finely got it working, just had to get a new motherboard, klipper, and new direct drive extruder. got klipper all figured out and now it runs!
Looking forward to more of your videos
Best upgrade you can get for an old Ender 3 these days is selling it and buying a better printer.
You're probably right. I don't regret it as a starting point though.
If you can find someone to buy it 😁
Klipper’ize it.
i prefer klipper over octo
Hi I wrote you on printables but you didn't answer so I am not sure if you are still active on the platform but I wanted to ask you how are you and congratulate you to 1k sub's and 100 download s on printables.
Hey mate. Just on holiday at the mo
I've done all this on the several printers I've owned (all Creality ones) since I first got into 3D printing in June 2020. My most recent being the Ender 2 Pro which was performing nicely, until about a week ago when the motherboard decided to die. Not wishing to go through the hassle of trying to source what is a non standard part, or bodging another board into the case, I decided to splash out on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini. I received it yesterday, and all I can say is WOW! What a difference between the A1 Mini and everything I've used in the past, it's like night and day. The printer just works, perfectly, right out of the box, and boy is it fast! I'm printing something right now that will take the A1 Mini just over 3 hours, whereas it took my Ender 2 Pro just over 7 hours! And the quality is there too, top notch. I'm never going back to anything else after this - my tinkering, modding, and upgrading days are over 🙂.
just buy a good printer off the go, i have had 2 ender 3's and they only cause headaches in the end,. i will NEVER buy another creality product.
In modern day I would only recommend upgrading a 3d printer to my worst enemies.
Its not worth it. At all.
If you actually want to enable your creativity, and use it as a tool to enable your projects, buy a Bambulab and be done with it.
You simply will not make for yourself as good as an experience, and will have waste far more in time and money than the cost.
Buy the best printer in terms of UX and features that is reasonable for your use case, and use it. Upgrade only if you must for a specific reason.
The argument about learning your 3d printer is silly. Its a useless skill to know about some specific printer model when you can only learn when you have to and if you think youll gain general knowledge, you can get that in 10 minutes on youtube.
All you are doing is wasting your free time, and the time you could be using to learn something more valuable to you. Its actually one of the time wastes that this video (which is a great idea) doesnt even cover. You waste time researching information that truly does not matter to you.
I definitely wanna go that direction when I get another printer. Tho I have enjoyed learning a bunch doing these upgrades.
hi mumblerat21