"Crank up the converter but don't exceed the original supply, you don't want to over-drive the LEDs." "Just add up the batteries -- disregard the blatantly obvious in-line resistor bringing the 4.5v batteries down to the requirements of this particular LED string, it doesn't matter if we over-drive them, we'll just shorten their life by 30%..."
I have some solar yard statues that Id like to convert into electric. How do I do this? They are little solar gnome statues. How would I convert them into electricity
I was wondering if this could be done. I have some solar firefly lights. I dunny want to leave them outside because of the dinner heat would dry out the plastic. So they sit in their box. Thanks for the video!
Dont you still need a current limiting resistor so LED's are not over driven? The life span will be shortened with out one as the current will be too high.
Yes you absolutely do, if you want to maintain the full life-span of the LEDs, they are the cheapest possible quality and are sensitive to being overdriven. You even had a big old easy-to-read resistor in the original battery pack, it would have taken a single trivial calculation to discover if the specific LED string you have actually needs 3.8v or 3.5 or 3.3 instead of 4.35. Over-drive them by 10%, shorten their life by >30%.
This video was to demonstrate the concept. Also I released this video in 2022, they are still going to this day. I have them over my mantel and they go all day every day. So can't be too wrong.
Very Nice . What about if I have all my lights with remotes , I have so many of these and the battery packs fails and solars panels failed too . I have a ton of these wires lights that wont work LOL
Hi I'm wondering if you can provide some advice? I have 1500 led string fairy lights (150m). Solar panel no longer works and I am trying to convert to power. There were 3 batteries with a total voltage of 4.2v. How could I connect these to analternative power supply?
I know zero about this, but want to learn this skill. Hate all these battery powered lights. So, why can't you just attach the USB wires to the now stripped string light wires? The voltage is too different? Sorry for the noob question
The voltage is not too different (5V vs. 4.5 V) but if you look closely there is a resistor inside the battery holder. So, you would need at least a resistor to limit the current in the LED string. Personally I use a constant current driver (two bjts and two resistors) so that the string can take any voltage between 3 and 12 volts (even 24v) and keep the same light level (actually below 4v the brightness drops).
I don't think that's a proper buck convertor, buck convertors use a coil to transform the voltage. It looks like a simple voltage regulator. The difference is, a buck convertor takes a higher voltage in at a lower current, outputs a lower voltage at a higher current. A lot like a transformer, except it's all DC so it needs a little circuit. A regulator like this takes in a higher voltage and outputs a lower voltage, but at the *same* current. The extra power from the voltage is just turned into heat. Hence the metal heat sink on the main component. The difference in practice, is that a buck convertor doesn't waste power as heat, it's more efficient. And also therefore isn't likely to overheat. It's not a huge difference in practice, though if you were using batteries (eg a home solar setup or the like) then it's best not to waste power. Both types of convertor / regulator are available cheaply, but the type here is just a bit cheaper. Trust Chinese sellers on Ebay or Aliexpress or whoever, to sell the cheaper one labelled as the less-cheap one. Not a huge deal but better to get the real thing. Nice video though, it's a very practical idea. I did the same thing, my grandmother used a string of battery-operated LEDs just to be able to see enough in the bathrooom without the light on. They were 4.5V, 3xAA batteries, so I could just cut the wire off and attach them to one end of a USB lead. USB is 5V, close enough to 4.5V that it doesn't make a difference in most applications. So I didn't need a convertor, you could probably have done without one here. With a phone charger, plugged into the shaver socket through an adaptor, gave safe low-power light with no batteries to buy. In the UK, we aren't allowed mains sockets in bathrooms, for safety. An exception is a 120V "shaver" socket meant for just that, running off a small isolator transformer, so your shaver is isolated from earth. So to get a shock you'd have to touch both terminals, not just live. Same way a bird doesn't get shocked standing on a wire, cos he's not touching the earth. Then even if you did get a shock it would only be 120V, less deadly than the usual 240V. The sockets use an American style socket rather than the usual 3-pin UK socket, to stop people trying to plug in hairdryers etc. Electric razors sold here usually have the American plug on them. [I know you probably know most of this, but for the benefit of the viewer...]
@@TownshendChristmasLights Using the regulator of course gives you the added versatility that later you could run it off 12V or 9V or some other source if you wanted to, whatever it's rated up to. Then there's the opposite of the buck convertor, the BOOST convertor. That increases a voltage (at the cost of drawing higher current). Rather than higher voltage / low current in -> lower voltage higher current out, like the buck convertor, it's the opposite. They're often used in those solar lights, to allow a cheap 1.2V Nicad battery, charged from a cheap solar panel, to run white LEDs that require around 2.7V to light up. You can buy boost convertors as modules too, set up just like this one.
You are correct, this is not a buck regulator. It is an LM317 variable linear voltage regulator. You don't need the regulator, just use a 22 ohm quarter watt resistor instead. This will limit the current to about 100mA.
This is not the correct way to do this; you are overloading the LED's. Don't use the regulator module. Just use a 22 ohm quarter watt resistor in the positive wire.
I disagree. I released this video in 2022, they are still going to this day. I have them over my mantel and they go all day every day. So can't be too wrong.
Oh no! This is so wrong. Good idea but badly made. There was a resistor between batteries and LEDs to limit the voltage/current. You are overloading the LEDs if you bypass this resistor. 4.5V should never reach the LEDs!!!
"Crank up the converter but don't exceed the original supply, you don't want to over-drive the LEDs."
"Just add up the batteries -- disregard the blatantly obvious in-line resistor bringing the 4.5v batteries down to the requirements of this particular LED string, it doesn't matter if we over-drive them, we'll just shorten their life by 30%..."
Thanks for the video. I'm looking for a way to turn AC yard lights into solar. Do you think that's possible?
I have some solar yard statues that Id like to convert into electric. How do I do this? They are little solar gnome statues. How would I convert them into electricity
I was wondering if this could be done. I have some solar firefly lights. I dunny want to leave them outside because of the dinner heat would dry out the plastic. So they sit in their box.
Thanks for the video!
I'm wanting to convert a battery light to solar. Do you know how to do that?
Dont you still need a current limiting resistor so LED's are not over driven? The life span will be shortened with out one as the current will be too high.
Not really. The buck converter handles that.
No it does not!
@@TownshendChristmasLights
Yes you absolutely do, if you want to maintain the full life-span of the LEDs, they are the cheapest possible quality and are sensitive to being overdriven. You even had a big old easy-to-read resistor in the original battery pack, it would have taken a single trivial calculation to discover if the specific LED string you have actually needs 3.8v or 3.5 or 3.3 instead of 4.35.
Over-drive them by 10%, shorten their life by >30%.
Can u put the link to buy that power converter that you used thanks
Don't bother. A better way is a 22 ohm resistor in the positive wire.
This video was to demonstrate the concept. Also I released this video in 2022, they are still going to this day. I have them over my mantel and they go all day every day. So can't be too wrong.
Please kindly reply with the converter model no...
Kindly share the convertor model please
what common electric devices use that kind ofvoltage regulators that i can remove and reuse?
Very Nice . What about if I have all my lights with remotes , I have so many of these and the battery packs fails and solars panels failed too . I have a ton of these wires lights that wont work LOL
What is the max input for the voltage regulator (buck converter), I have blown 2 using an AC-AC Adaptor: input 230-240V -50/60 Hz, output 22v-10VA
I suppose it depends on the model you get.
@@TownshendChristmasLights I think I found the problem; you need to use dc-dc adaptors.
Where do you find these converters
Jaycar or trade me. There is a place in Auckland that sells then cheaply.
@TownshendChristmasLights what about in the U.S. ? Online ?
Hi I'm wondering if you can provide some advice? I have 1500 led string fairy lights (150m). Solar panel no longer works and I am trying to convert to power. There were 3 batteries with a total voltage of 4.2v.
How could I connect these to analternative power supply?
I know zero about this, but want to learn this skill. Hate all these battery powered lights. So, why can't you just attach the USB wires to the now stripped string light wires? The voltage is too different? Sorry for the noob question
The voltage is not too different (5V vs. 4.5 V) but if you look closely there is a resistor inside the battery holder. So, you would need at least a resistor to limit the current in the LED string. Personally I use a constant current driver (two bjts and two resistors) so that the string can take any voltage between 3 and 12 volts (even 24v) and keep the same light level (actually below 4v the brightness drops).
@@copernicofelinis wow, nice. Thank you
I don't think that's a proper buck convertor, buck convertors use a coil to transform the voltage. It looks like a simple voltage regulator.
The difference is, a buck convertor takes a higher voltage in at a lower current, outputs a lower voltage at a higher current. A lot like a transformer, except it's all DC so it needs a little circuit.
A regulator like this takes in a higher voltage and outputs a lower voltage, but at the *same* current. The extra power from the voltage is just turned into heat. Hence the metal heat sink on the main component.
The difference in practice, is that a buck convertor doesn't waste power as heat, it's more efficient. And also therefore isn't likely to overheat. It's not a huge difference in practice, though if you were using batteries (eg a home solar setup or the like) then it's best not to waste power.
Both types of convertor / regulator are available cheaply, but the type here is just a bit cheaper. Trust Chinese sellers on Ebay or Aliexpress or whoever, to sell the cheaper one labelled as the less-cheap one. Not a huge deal but better to get the real thing.
Nice video though, it's a very practical idea. I did the same thing, my grandmother used a string of battery-operated LEDs just to be able to see enough in the bathrooom without the light on. They were 4.5V, 3xAA batteries, so I could just cut the wire off and attach them to one end of a USB lead. USB is 5V, close enough to 4.5V that it doesn't make a difference in most applications. So I didn't need a convertor, you could probably have done without one here. With a phone charger, plugged into the shaver socket through an adaptor, gave safe low-power light with no batteries to buy.
In the UK, we aren't allowed mains sockets in bathrooms, for safety. An exception is a 120V "shaver" socket meant for just that, running off a small isolator transformer, so your shaver is isolated from earth. So to get a shock you'd have to touch both terminals, not just live. Same way a bird doesn't get shocked standing on a wire, cos he's not touching the earth. Then even if you did get a shock it would only be 120V, less deadly than the usual 240V. The sockets use an American style socket rather than the usual 3-pin UK socket, to stop people trying to plug in hairdryers etc. Electric razors sold here usually have the American plug on them.
[I know you probably know most of this, but for the benefit of the viewer...]
Hi great reply. Thanks for the clarity on the buck converter vs regulator. Yeah the USB voltage would be fine, really just playing it safe.
@@TownshendChristmasLights Using the regulator of course gives you the added versatility that later you could run it off 12V or 9V or some other source if you wanted to, whatever it's rated up to.
Then there's the opposite of the buck convertor, the BOOST convertor. That increases a voltage (at the cost of drawing higher current). Rather than higher voltage / low current in -> lower voltage higher current out, like the buck convertor, it's the opposite. They're often used in those solar lights, to allow a cheap 1.2V Nicad battery, charged from a cheap solar panel, to run white LEDs that require around 2.7V to light up. You can buy boost convertors as modules too, set up just like this one.
4.5V on LED is massive overdrive, oryginały there is resistor in serieres with LED.
Shouldn't there be a resistor in there aswell to regulate the current? Thought the leds will burn out
You are correct, this is not a buck regulator. It is an LM317 variable linear voltage regulator. You don't need the regulator, just use a 22 ohm quarter watt resistor instead. This will limit the current to about 100mA.
you are over driving the leds, 4.5 volts is too high, thats why there is a resistor in series with the load
I released this video in 2022, they are still going to this day. I have them over my mantel and they go all day every day. No brightness drop.
This is not the correct way to do this; you are overloading the LED's. Don't use the regulator module. Just use a 22 ohm quarter watt resistor in the positive wire.
Do you have a video demonstrating the 'proper way' very interested if so
I get blocked from posting a link!@@austonwheeler623
I disagree. I released this video in 2022, they are still going to this day. I have them over my mantel and they go all day every day. So can't be too wrong.
just because its working doesn't mean the design is correct. Do what you like, but I stive for correct design.@@TownshendChristmasLights
Oh no! This is so wrong. Good idea but badly made. There was a resistor between batteries and LEDs to limit the voltage/current. You are overloading the LEDs if you bypass this resistor. 4.5V should never reach the LEDs!!!
I released this video in 2022, they are still going to this day. I have them over my mantel and they go all day every day. So can't be too wrong.