I enjoyed your great attention to detail. I've been in the car business for 50 years, since retired. I started at the great Britain's, mg triumph and jaguar.and now I have a fabrication shop. I would only suggest you invest in a good set of vernier calipers, say mitutoyo. They are accurate to .0005 thousandths. If I were to do that, I would never rely on loctite to correct a loose fit. I would using my lathe, turn a precise fitting pilot bushing with an interference fit. More precise, more long lasting.
Thanks Steve. I appreciate the feedback. I wish I had a lathe! I do have some bore gauges however, and a more accurate caliper is on my wish list. I used loctite as that is what the instructions from Fidanza said to do....
I have a friend who does flywheel mods/conversions for Ford Model A cars. IIRC, he takes off a bit more than 30 pounds off of the flywheel on those when he does a conversion to a S-10 transmission. The flywheel on those cars was intentionally heavy to smooth out the engine. Your engine looks really nice, superb workmanship! :)
I have a TVR 2500M with the TR6 engine. I did a total rebuild and performance tune; increased compression, very hot street cam, triple SU HS6, etc. plus the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. None of the cons were immediately obvious although by having so much more horsepower (175 hp vs 104 hp stock) maybe I was able to overpower many of them.
@@triumphrestoration7403 I think they are great. I do like the SU better that the Strombergs (no emission add ons and tunable) and are so, so much easier to sort out than Webers. I also like the classic English look (like Healey 3000 and E Type). Classic Motorsports magazine did a definitive comparison (on dyno) of Webers and SU's and there was very little difference. Triples are probably overkill. You can get enough volume through two but with three the distribution is better and I can use the higher flow with ported heads, larger "flowed" intake valves.
@@triumphrestoration7403 My total engine rebuild; balancing, overbore, compression increase, cam, valve work, street porting (not polished), etc, etc. was done by Hap Waldrop ACME Speed in Greenville SC. He is a vintage (MGB) racer and does English engines, mostly MG and Triumph. I recommend him heartily.
@@triumphrestoration7403 I feel your pain, after 10 years my TR6 basically done. Took it out today and was great. Have started a GT6, probably dead before it done.
Subscribed and liked, appreciate your work in posting and found it useful. Thanks.
You are welcome!
I enjoyed your great attention to detail. I've been in the car business for 50 years, since retired. I started at the great Britain's, mg triumph and jaguar.and now I have a fabrication shop. I would only suggest you invest in a good set of vernier calipers, say mitutoyo. They are accurate to .0005 thousandths. If I were to do that, I would never rely on loctite to correct a loose fit. I would using my lathe, turn a precise fitting pilot bushing with an interference fit. More precise, more long lasting.
Thanks Steve. I appreciate the feedback. I wish I had a lathe! I do have some bore gauges however, and a more accurate caliper is on my wish list. I used loctite as that is what the instructions from Fidanza said to do....
A lot of great information thank you for taking the time to do it.
Thanks Michael!
I'm about to embark on my TR6 engine rebuild, so having just found your channel i'm sure your videos will be a great help, thanks.
You are welcome. Let me know how yours goes....
By the way, great video. I really like your objective, analytical approach.
I appreciate that!
Great video. Once again the drawings make everything very clear. Thanks for posting!
Glad you like them!
I have a friend who does flywheel mods/conversions for Ford Model A cars. IIRC, he takes off a bit more than 30 pounds off of the flywheel on those when he does a conversion to a S-10 transmission. The flywheel on those cars was intentionally heavy to smooth out the engine.
Your engine looks really nice, superb workmanship! :)
thanks!
I have a TVR 2500M with the TR6 engine. I did a total rebuild and performance tune; increased compression, very hot street cam, triple SU HS6, etc. plus the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. None of the cons were immediately obvious although by having so much more horsepower (175 hp vs 104 hp stock) maybe I was able to overpower many of them.
The triple SUs are a mod I am considering later. You like them?
@@triumphrestoration7403 I think they are great. I do like the SU better that the Strombergs (no emission add ons and tunable) and are so, so much easier to sort out than Webers. I also like the classic English look (like Healey 3000 and E Type). Classic Motorsports magazine did a definitive comparison (on dyno) of Webers and SU's and there was very little difference. Triples are probably overkill. You can get enough volume through two but with three the distribution is better and I can use the higher flow with ported heads, larger "flowed" intake valves.
Who did your porting on the head? Do you recommend them?
@@triumphrestoration7403 My total engine rebuild; balancing, overbore, compression increase, cam, valve work, street porting (not polished), etc, etc. was done by Hap Waldrop ACME Speed in Greenville SC. He is a vintage (MGB) racer and does English engines, mostly MG and Triumph. I recommend him heartily.
Very interesting, I have been thinking about a clutch up grade and lighter flywheel. Looking forward to your driving experience.
Me too! At the rate I am going it may be awhile!
@@triumphrestoration7403 I feel your pain, after 10 years my TR6 basically done. Took it out today and was great. Have started a GT6, probably dead before it done.