Also, I use JB weld too. But... i use the knockouts from metal junction boxes too. I put tape on the FRONT of the CP. Then i flip it over amd place the metal knockout in the center. Then JB Weld around it. Once cured, I remove the tape from the front and redrill any existing holes that were covered. Then bondo to fill in any imperfections. Sand it smooth and coat it with satin black (Rustoleum) to protect from rust. Then apply the new overlay to a perfect CP. Voila!
@@overtimearcadeYup, washers were Overkill. Without them you can hit the old button holes with a hammer and they won't come out! You can even drill the original holes again where the JB weld overlaps.
Just picked up an original mad planets (took forever to find) that was also converted to time soldiers. CP is gonna need some work. The toughest CP I ever did was a dynamo that had a monster hold for a trackball. Took a ton of jb weld and bondo. Great work I enjoy your videos keep up the good work.
Oh wow, congrats on the Mad Planets pickup, Chris! I’ve got a power supply PCB for it if you’re looking for one. Filling a trackball hole sounds really intimidating. Thanks for the kind words!
looks good. what i do, especially if the game is going out into a route, is put a sheet of polycarbonate over the decal. polycarbonate will bend but not break and keeps the decal looking nice longer.
You could download the MAME rom for the version you like and burn the appropriate files to proms and just insert those into your motherboard I've repair a few boards in the past that had bad eproms. And keep the original chips in the cabinet incase you ever decide to revert.
In generally, yes -- but in this case, Sega did something funky with encrypted ROMs and a special Z80 that could decrypt them. So I'd have to replace it with a standard Z80 and standard unencrypted ROMs to do that... but I wound up just installing a high score save kit to get the Hot Butter Popcorn music instead. 😅
@@overtimearcadeI use a special paint wheel for a grinder. Once you use it you will never go back: ruclips.net/video/Jq9cFCn-urY/видео.htmlsi=R1aWmiBetOfTClwN&t=05m06s
This is the paint stripper attachment I used, but it didn’t work nearly as well as the wire wheel: www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/sanding-discs/1024442
Ya a hook might be easier if it can stay propped in, I chose Qtips just because everyone usually has them on hand instead of going to the store and buying something you might only use once. Nice video dude.
I cut the fibre glass cloth into circles put them in the holes and add the resin .... rock hard and pretty easy... your metal washer method seems a bit over complicated@@overtimearcade
Actually just remembered thats not how I did it 🤣 I put a strip of fibre glass on the back of the cp to cover the hole and then filled the hole with bondo and sanded down... had a few beers I'm in the UK and its late 😂 I can send images if you want to see 👍
that control panel, what I would do is when my wife wasnt looking slap it in the oven on its lowest setting for a little while ... would it help? IDK but it sounds like it might. Now as far as the hole repair ... if I didn't know how to do basic welding I wouldnt think twice about what your doing, but I was also thinking outside of having dimples possibly show up in the artwork, if your putting a plexi cover on top do the holes "really" matter? Could you use just some flat thin material expoied (or jb weld which is an expoy) to the back and just bondo it up? Just thinking out loud on how I might tackle such an issue (cause even though i have basic mig welding knoledge and gear, that sounds like a pain in the arse)
Really don't think that wet method helps the overlay, seems like a lot of extra hassle with clamps etc and no real way to be sure it holds properly. But fair play for keeping at it. Overall i've been enjoying the channel. As it seems be only yourself doing the work, the pacman editor thing is slightly odd but its cool to have some detail on these games. Love that Joe's arcade Tee, i watch those fellas too. Love seeing these old cabs brought back to life ;)
Thanks! The wet method gives you a bit more leeway in terms of adjusting position and getting air bubbles out. Without it, as soon as the adhesive makes contact, it’s stuck and there’s no moving it. Professor Pac-Man helps clarify things whenever is misspeak without having to go back and reshoot scenes. I appreciate all the kind words and I hope you keep watching!
time to invest in a cheap mig welder sir, also ... oversizes washers can be made smaller with a drill and a bench grinder once all is welded everything is steel and can be drilled or ground out with dremel or files
Awesome job Charlie! Came out great. I still cant belive you got that time soldiers for free. (I think that's what you said) That's on my list to build one day. I have a pcb with graphics issues I got for cheap I need to repair. I still need the joysticks, but I cant afford what folks are asking for them. Waiting for a deal. One day though! thanks for the vids!
This video is so fascinating! The dedication and attention to detail in restoring this Sega Pango arcade control panel is impressive. The way you're addressing those extra holes and using JB Weld for this intricate repair job is a testament to your commitment to getting everything just right. Keep up the excellent work! 👏🕹🔧
Thanks, Shawn -- it was a close call there for a while, but I'm very happy with how the control panel repair and new CPO application turned out! I thought about getting some kind of inexpensive welding rig to fill the metal holes, however the JB Weld seemed to do the trick just fine!
I love videos like this, they are really helpful when working on cleaning up your own machines. Reminds me of John's Arcade. :D
Thanks so much! No one could ever fill John’s shoes, but he’s absolutely a huge inspiration for me!
Also, I use JB weld too. But... i use the knockouts from metal junction boxes too. I put tape on the FRONT of the CP. Then i flip it over amd place the metal knockout in the center. Then JB Weld around it. Once cured, I remove the tape from the front and redrill any existing holes that were covered. Then bondo to fill in any imperfections. Sand it smooth and coat it with satin black (Rustoleum) to protect from rust. Then apply the new overlay to a perfect CP. Voila!
That’s strong enough without the larger washers on the backside?
@@overtimearcadeYup, washers were Overkill. Without them you can hit the old button holes with a hammer and they won't come out! You can even drill the original holes again where the JB weld overlaps.
Just picked up an original mad planets (took forever to find) that was also converted to time soldiers. CP is gonna need some work. The toughest CP I ever did was a dynamo that had a monster hold for a trackball. Took a ton of jb weld and bondo. Great work I enjoy your videos keep up the good work.
Oh wow, congrats on the Mad Planets pickup, Chris! I’ve got a power supply PCB for it if you’re looking for one. Filling a trackball hole sounds really intimidating. Thanks for the kind words!
looks good. what i do, especially if the game is going out into a route, is put a sheet of polycarbonate over the decal. polycarbonate will bend but not break and keeps the decal looking nice longer.
Thanks! Plexi over the CPO can make a lot of sense on location, but in a home collection, I try to keep things as original as possible!
You could download the MAME rom for the version you like and burn the appropriate files to proms and just insert those into your motherboard I've repair a few boards in the past that had bad eproms. And keep the original chips in the cabinet incase you ever decide to revert.
In generally, yes -- but in this case, Sega did something funky with encrypted ROMs and a special Z80 that could decrypt them. So I'd have to replace it with a standard Z80 and standard unencrypted ROMs to do that... but I wound up just installing a high score save kit to get the Hot Butter Popcorn music instead. 😅
Great job!
Thanks, and thank you for watching!!
That extra curve on the bottom of the CP looked like a headache in the making, but you got great results! Pengo was a favorite growing up. Well done!
Thanks - those bends definitely made things more complicated!
Paint stripper wheel attachment + angle grinder FTW. 10 minutes, tops. Then you can polish it up with the wire wheel.
I tried the paint stripper wheel on my power drill, but the wire wheel did a better job at removing everything.
@@overtimearcadeI use a special paint wheel for a grinder. Once you use it you will never go back:
ruclips.net/video/Jq9cFCn-urY/видео.htmlsi=R1aWmiBetOfTClwN&t=05m06s
This is the paint stripper attachment I used, but it didn’t work nearly as well as the wire wheel: www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/sanding-discs/1024442
Wow that was a lot of work!!
PENGO IS WORTH IT! 😅
Glad it worked out for you! (Pengo pcb)
Thank you, Todd!
Ya a hook might be easier if it can stay propped in, I chose Qtips just because everyone usually has them on hand instead of going to the store and buying something you might only use once. Nice video dude.
Thanks, my man! And I really appreciate the video you put out originally on how to do this - it made the process super easy!!
Any reason why you didn't use fibre glass ... I repair all my panels with it... once the cpo is over you'd never know.
You mean the fiberglass bondo? I’ve never tried it before. You think I need it for added strength?
I cut the fibre glass cloth into circles put them in the holes and add the resin .... rock hard and pretty easy... your metal washer method seems a bit over complicated@@overtimearcade
Is that stuff stronger than J-B Weld?
Actually just remembered thats not how I did it 🤣 I put a strip of fibre glass on the back of the cp to cover the hole and then filled the hole with bondo and sanded down... had a few beers I'm in the UK and its late 😂 I can send images if you want to see 👍
@EdgeT All good, no worries mate!
that control panel, what I would do is when my wife wasnt looking slap it in the oven on its lowest setting for a little while ... would it help? IDK but it sounds like it might. Now as far as the hole repair ... if I didn't know how to do basic welding I wouldnt think twice about what your doing, but I was also thinking outside of having dimples possibly show up in the artwork, if your putting a plexi cover on top do the holes "really" matter? Could you use just some flat thin material expoied (or jb weld which is an expoy) to the back and just bondo it up?
Just thinking out loud on how I might tackle such an issue (cause even though i have basic mig welding knoledge and gear, that sounds like a pain in the arse)
I thought about burning it off, but the wire wheel did a decent enough job. I think it turned out ok with the J-B Weld too!
Really don't think that wet method helps the overlay, seems like a lot of extra hassle with clamps etc and no real way to be sure it holds properly. But fair play for keeping at it. Overall i've been enjoying the channel. As it seems be only yourself doing the work, the pacman editor thing is slightly odd but its cool to have some detail on these games. Love that Joe's arcade Tee, i watch those fellas too. Love seeing these old cabs brought back to life ;)
Thanks! The wet method gives you a bit more leeway in terms of adjusting position and getting air bubbles out. Without it, as soon as the adhesive makes contact, it’s stuck and there’s no moving it. Professor Pac-Man helps clarify things whenever is misspeak without having to go back and reshoot scenes. I appreciate all the kind words and I hope you keep watching!
Just found your channel, saw the “It’s Broke” tee shirt and immediately subscribed! 👍
C’MON, PEOPLE!!
time to invest in a cheap mig welder sir, also ... oversizes washers can be made smaller with a drill and a bench grinder
once all is welded everything is steel and can be drilled or ground out with dremel or files
I’ve definitely thought about it, but JB Weld has met my needs so far!
I think you need a few more clamps. 😂 Nice t-shirt, BTW.
C’MON, PEOPLE! 😅
Great job. Thanks for sharing!
Why thank you!
Looks great good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome job Charlie! Came out great. I still cant belive you got that time soldiers for free. (I think that's what you said) That's on my list to build one day. I have a pcb with graphics issues I got for cheap I need to repair. I still need the joysticks, but I cant afford what folks are asking for them. Waiting for a deal. One day though!
thanks for the vids!
Thanks! And yep, I got it for free! The game PCB works but has no sound, and this is the monitor I necked, but hey… it was FREE!
This video is so fascinating! The dedication and attention to detail in restoring this Sega Pango arcade control panel is impressive. The way you're addressing those extra holes and using JB Weld for this intricate repair job is a testament to your commitment to getting everything just right. Keep up the excellent work! 👏🕹🔧
Thanks, Shawn -- it was a close call there for a while, but I'm very happy with how the control panel repair and new CPO application turned out! I thought about getting some kind of inexpensive welding rig to fill the metal holes, however the JB Weld seemed to do the trick just fine!
Awesome! That fail-title had me scared! But you did a really good job! Well done!
Thanks! I’m surprised it turned out as good as it did!