@@QuincasMoreira Thanks yeah ES replied as well, I guess by their numbers it should be 16 mA / 6 mA, so sounds good. Going to see what happens when I chain 8 of these together with some ADDAC switches :D
@@QuincasMoreira I do have a new sequencer up my sleeve and although it’s not going to be for Eurorack, I think you’ll be impressed with the unique functionality. 🙏🏻
2 stupid questions: Why exactly are you soldering from the top? What are the benefits and the downside? And then: Why are you not starting with the “lowest” components (aka resistors)? I love your videos and I’m a DIY enthusiast but I was always wondering why are you doing things completely differently from what’s stated in most manuals. Thanks in advance for your reply! Lots of love from Berlin :)
I learned about soldering from the top from Ray Wilson, and he was NASA certified in soldering! In modern professionally made PCBs the holes are metal plated all the way through. So no matter which side you solder from, it'll make it to the other side. For low profile component that leave the top hole uncovered, it's just faster and easier to solder from the top. You only have to turn the board over once when you're done, touch up any trouble spots and trim the leads. No having to spread the resistor legs out so they won't fall, no sticking the iron tip into a forest of leads. And it just makes sense to continue in order of height, so you can still rest the PCB on the table to solder for as long as possible, before the components start getting taller. Love from Mexico!
Thanks for the video, I‘ve just build my KIT and after building 20+ DIY Modules, holy smoke welcomed me while switch on the modules (LEDs light up). Besides Power Shorts, any other spots to check?
@@QuincasMoreira IC are fine, R13 (10Ohm “fuse“) was blown up. Resoldered power socket and replaced R13… 2nd round of smoke. Will spend time with the magnifier as next step
how cool is the audio rate stuff? never thought of doing that! awesome!
Just waiting for Thonk to get the Seq in stock, thank you for sharing
I just got the whole kit, including the case, from Thonk. 😀
Using the sequencer for wave shaping!!! Never thought of that. Really cool.
This looks like a great sequencer thats simple to use
That was so nice to watch! I'm getting one
Really cool demo.
super nice! always love your videos
Any idea what the current draw is on this? I can't find it in the manual. Just want to be sure I have enough power left on my supply.
nothing! LOL. Just measured: 17 mA on +12v and 6mA on the -12 rail!
@@QuincasMoreira Thanks yeah ES replied as well, I guess by their numbers it should be 16 mA / 6 mA, so sounds good. Going to see what happens when I chain 8 of these together with some ADDAC switches :D
@@nelen_co cool idea!
@@QuincasMoreira Just built the first one tonight. Hardest part was getting those chips in at the very end.
I was surprised Moritz chose to go with a 5 step instead of 8. Very nice design, however.
everybody makes 8 step sequencers! Only Don Buchla and Moritz Klein chose 5 :)
@@QuincasMoreira well, who am I to judge the *big* boys? 😁
@@QuincasMoreira I do have a new sequencer up my sleeve and although it’s not going to be for Eurorack, I think you’ll be impressed with the unique functionality. 🙏🏻
2 stupid questions: Why exactly are you soldering from the top? What are the benefits and the downside? And then: Why are you not starting with the “lowest” components (aka resistors)? I love your videos and I’m a DIY enthusiast but I was always wondering why are you doing things completely differently from what’s stated in most manuals. Thanks in advance for your reply! Lots of love from Berlin :)
I learned about soldering from the top from Ray Wilson, and he was NASA certified in soldering!
In modern professionally made PCBs the holes are metal plated all the way through. So no matter which side you solder from, it'll make it to the other side. For low profile component that leave the top hole uncovered, it's just faster and easier to solder from the top. You only have to turn the board over once when you're done, touch up any trouble spots and trim the leads. No having to spread the resistor legs out so they won't fall, no sticking the iron tip into a forest of leads.
And it just makes sense to continue in order of height, so you can still rest the PCB on the table to solder for as long as possible, before the components start getting taller.
Love from Mexico!
Thanks for the video, I‘ve just build my KIT and after building 20+ DIY Modules, holy smoke welcomed me while switch on the modules (LEDs light up). Besides Power Shorts, any other spots to check?
Hi! Check the IC orientation, and do a magnifier inspection for shorts anywhere on the board… sniff around to find where the smoke came from
@@QuincasMoreira IC are fine, R13 (10Ohm “fuse“) was blown up. Resoldered power socket and replaced R13… 2nd round of smoke. Will spend time with the magnifier as next step
@@rustychuan there’s a short somewhere if the fuse is blowing….
@@QuincasMoreira thanks- I will start searching for the short and reflow my solder joints….
You missed a small cap bro
Thanks!
Mexican radio wall of voodoo