Understanding Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli - Couture Spring 2022
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Unveiling the nuances, references and concept behind Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring 2022 as part of Paris Fashion Week.
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Daniel is one of those (like margiela, rick owens, demna, CCP, vivienne westwood and etc) that reminds me each WHY im obsessed with the art of fashion and why i should still pursue a career in fashion, despite how hard/challenging it can be
You should take that love and look back into fashion even further to solidify your convictions. All of the names with the exception of Westwood that you mention actually are part of the era that shifted the field to one that would be hard/challenging to be an earnest lover of beauty in. But once you can internalize the richer history and all our connections to it, you’ll start to see your agency in your vision, I hope. Each culture has its own vast story of adornment; these people didn’t invent clothes, or Beauty.
Daniel Roseberry is my favorite fashion illustrator. His drawings are as a surreal and beautiful as the garments he designs and, in my opinion, is what allows him to conceptualize a lot of the crazy looks he puts together
I love the story he weaves in the show notes for this collection. The collection itself is gorgeous. I really appreciate the contrast with the previous seasons he has done. This season seems much more elegant to me. It is nice to see Roseberry show his skill with these more pared down designs, after the opulence and excess of his past collections. The ability to do both subtle and in your face speaks to his broad range and vision.
The segment from 8:05-8:57 about the sci fi references and supreme gargantuan-ness is so spot on and why I loved this collection
First of all I wanted to mention that Schiaparelli is one of the few brand that everyone who will look at a piece or a collection will say that it’s beautiful. And it doesn’t matter if that person has a big expertise and understanding in fashion or watches the first show in their life and I think this is really remarkable for a brand to achieve. I think the theme of godesses is really fitting for the situation with the virus right now because it shows how bad the situation really is. Even literal godesses have to get down to the people to solve this situation. I also think it’s interesting for Daniel to only use three colors and even though only using such a limited amount of colors, two of them being monochromatic, being able to achieve such a feeling of opulence. And with Schiaparelli it’s good opulence you don’t feel cringed out when watching these pieces you are more of in a state of amazement. They use gold in such a different way which is not comparable with brands like Versace or dolce gabana in my opponion. I hope you understood what I meant with my texts and it made sense somehow. Please excuse my englisch it’s really not the best🙏
Thank you so much for doing another episode on Schiaparelli!
I’ve recently read Caroline Evans’ article about Elsa Schiaparelli’s work where the author describes inter-war Paris as “shifting, insecure and rootless, a time without depth when meaning could be read off surfaces”, which I think is certainly conveyed with the Roseberry’s “tempered opulence” that appears as a result of the new instabilities that occurred with the pandemic.
But I think it is also worth considering how although Elsa Schiaparelli tended to reconstruct female identity on the surface of the body, she still didn’t aim to present the one unified identity. Rather, she introduced the idea of an undetermined and heterogeneous subject that is a woman, encompassing all of her ‘roles’ in society, which I believe is again repeated and reflected in Roseberry’s different embodiments of one goddess; one woman.
I thought this video was really great. My knowledge of the world of fashion is limited to the streetwear influenced end predominantly, so find the haute couture and womenswear stuff super informative. I think you are absolutely correct about the lack of a pageant of freedom to mark the end of the pandemic... Sliding quietly out with the spectre of COVID still looming large leaves a lot to be desired.
6:56...That's me in a nutshell...I LOVE Schiaparelli!
As many of the pieces sublimely echo Elsa Schiaparelli's pioneering surreal motifs - and as your commentary emphasizes, 'Yes we are still in a period of restraint' . And it is Schiaparelli's galactic Goddess in her many forms that seems to be instructing us --- "Scrutinize carefully what your Eye sees, your Ears hear, your Lips speak and per those deliciously conical bras -- Keep Your Damn Distance!!!" I always learn sooo much from your Fashion Master Classes. Schiap-Happy!
This comment made me really happy, thank you 😌
i loveddd it, love the brand, love your analysis as usual and visual reference omg damnn are too good
incredible videos as always, thank you bliss!
Lovvvved the aspects you took to analyze the show!!!
I’m
So
In
Love
With ALLLLL OF HIS GENIUS
Grate job Bliss
Appreciate the time and effort you put in to breaking this down. So insightful and interesting to think about! Thank you!
Daniel listened to Planet Her while designing this
Yeeeeeees never knew I needed this so badly
Love Roseberry’s ‘a lot’
Haha me too. He’s changing directions now, it turns out this show was the end of an era
@@BlissFoster especially interesting given what just happened at Gucci and Schiaparellism’s are visible in some other brands now
Loic Prigent has and AMAZING behind the scenes of the haute couture show
Loïc is the best 😌
Thank you for this video!!! I looooove Schiaparelli too! This jewellry......
u gotta do a house tour and point out your fav furniture
u just have to theres no way out
Even your outfit matches the subject. Dali , Schiaparelli inspired pants by Dries van Noten.
Argh…. and again this proves why Schiaparelli is the „crème de la crème“ of the fashion houses.
Exactly I love Schiaparelli
Where’s your gold necklace from ??
Love your video btw;)
Tiny Lebanese brand called Saleh, it’s not designer, I just like it 😌
Yes you can do all those things in these beautiful pieces...Dressed like goddess people can spoon-feed, drive you and pamper you like one lol 😆
Do you have a new camera?
Nope! I’m just learning to use it better 💫💫
This red sofa behind you was distracting me through the whole video ❤
Does anyone know about some creators with similar content??
bliss is pretty damned unique from what i can tell. most presenters with this energy aren't anywhere near as genuine or versed and rely on divisive opinions or flashy edits - conversely most presenters with this level of knowledge are potato grade energy-wise. and i'm talkin dusty tater.
a lot of ideas. he can only be compared to John Galliano. Can you make a current report about it?
This didn’t give a lot of insight
I’m always open to feedback! What could I have been more clear about?
@@BlissFoster you should gear more towards a critical analysis, because as you say, what you cover in the video can pretty much be gathered from Schiaparelli’s social media etc. you touch on points that could be critically analyzed but then move on to another point. What is the significance of the to-some-degree childlike-make of the pieces (aside from visual impact/qualities) ? Your commentary is largely surface level. Also, importantly when discussing the influence of the “imperial” you didn’t for a moment offer any critical perspective that may question the context that is inherently pulled in when imperialism is glorified in such an “opulent” (as you say) manner. thinking about that women have scarcely profited in positions of imperial power - the ideal that Daniel glamourises is problematic. It was unfortunate that you didn’t question your own perspective when making the video.
Oh hi ❤😊 I can't afford to pay you for the privilege of your opinings. Really sorry. Like, SORRY, dude 😔😔😔
I see the fifth element in those silhouettes. So why not applaud the costume designers for creating these inspired l00ks.
Never too late to take about either Schiaparelli or Roseberry. Brilliant concept and execution. Art in fashion.
I really love analyzing this through the lens of sci fi. The austere, the surreal, the oppulent and the ordained are themes that seem to scream through this show. They're all feelings evoked by the universe and our own exploration of it. I love that a dress can make me feel the same way as I do looking out at distant constellations. I'm seeing something that's other worldly, but not unknowable. Roseberry's killing it. These dresses feel like they were created in a flash of light, as a result of a chemical reaction (or maybe just the will of the goddess herself). The structures aren't exactly INorganic, but they aren't from any sort of organic process that we're familiar with on earth. The result is an otherworldlieness that doesn't feel too far from home, from our own years of discipline and struggle. This is clearly the wardrobe of a cosmic being, but one who may be more similar to us than it seems. What a brilliant show, and a brilliant analysis Bliss!
Thank you for reading show notes. I can’t believe how many shows I’ve looked at without having the preparation and framing of the artist’s intent and their personal, emotional relationship to the show.
Thought + question ->
Daniel’s work makes me think about the relationship between “big picture” and “small detail” ideas… I see a difficult push/pull relationship between over-intricacy and pertinent fulfillment of your ideas (worrying too much ab detail and not focusing on the big idea or vice versa)… but dammit they nailed it
How do you think aspiring designers could improve their own ability at this?
Fashion my mortal brain finds hard to accept it’s reality! Goddess-like snd alien has been achieved. The pieces surpass even the opulence of Versace snd are just more in every way possible. Obvs not fashion to wear down red lobster, but maybe a gala or two if you’re a gazillionaire!
ending with "temperance" is fitting -the show notes mention the high priestess. both archetypes of the tarot
Love your video!❤ I really wanted to see Vivienne Westwood tho 😫
omg the joy i felt when i saw this video love ur runway analysis and looooved this collection
yesss y doooo!!!!! Ann Drew :)) ANDREW andrew A N D R E W
Love how outlandish and imaginative these are. Stupendous.
Always so refreshing, doing your part to educate and thereby democratize the Lens. 2 quick things: first, just because she doesn’t want or need to sit and eat soup, shouldn’t she BE ABLE to if she decided to? That’s the Haute Couture ‘thing’ right? Impeccable, at best groundbreaking, engineering in production of garmenture. Second, Elsie de Wolfe aka Lady Mendl was SO much more than a socialite. She was one of the first truly modern women, the founder of interior design as it exists as a profession today, a cultural ambassador on the scale and influence of, say, Jackie-O, and personal and professional friends in the same set as Elsa herself (in fact the Apollo fountain embroidery is specifically for Elsie’s cape because of the Villa Trianon she had restored on the outskirts of Versailles’ gardens and turned into her hostess hub for the luminaries of art and design in their day). She died in 1950 at the age of 85.
I love getting more information like this, thank you so much for sharing with us!
The New CRAZ!
What kind of pencils is Daniel Roseberry drawing with? I didn’t catch the name at 7:55
I’m not sure off rip, but if you look at the videos from the house and in other video interviews, they show the name of the pencils and pens sometimes 💫💫
i dont follow fashion as crazy close as i did a few years ago, but i will never not follow schiaparelli. everything is just rad.
I loved the complete flip from hope, joy and bright colours. To black, Jaded, scepticism and sharp points 🙃🖤
i love your runway analyses cuz without them i wouldn't know anything abt what was going on LMAO i love your content sm it is super helpful for someone like me who is just getting into fashion
I just love Schiaparelli. I wish there was a larger presence to shop the brand in my area. The pieces are both creative and gorgeous, which can be hard to find together in fashion.
no one's talking about the bilboquet skills ?
noti gang
Your interior is insane!!🥹🥵
You da best
37 secs damn
FINALLYYYYYY
When are you gonna talk about any Carol Christian Poell related shows or history?
I have one video up about Mainstream Downstream and more coming 💫💫
:)
🔥🔥I'd do anything for your T-shirt
I LOVE that tee! It’s a silk one from forever ago. It gets really hot 😆 but I love how it drapes when I stand 💫💫
Funny how cabochon in Québécois French is a familiar way to mean a botched job or a stubborn/idiot person.
Bliss smashing it once again! I am impressed by your depth of analysis. The show notes were stunning too, writing was impeccable
So true
I wish more people interested in fashion saw it the way you do...
Thanks homie 😌 means a lot to me
Do you have a house tour? It’s lovely in there and I’d be delighted to see more if that’s something you’re comfortable sharing.
Am I the “Andrew”😳?
Yes 🫡
Excuse me. Please update your channel icon to reflect your incredible long hair glow up. Thank you, that is all.