I trust your opinion more than most, you're honest and mostly unbiased. Everyone else will dog something just because they can do it publicly. You're the project parm of bicycles, please don't stop doing what you do XD
I been using zoom brakes and so after 3 years on xc bike 0 problems . I’ve been happy with them I picked up a 2nd set for my ns eccentric I’m building up.
Every time I am in my garage banging away on the bikes and I make a purchase on Amazon and pick the least expensive option... I know I can come right over here and find out what I am going to get when the delivery guy gets here! Thanks so much!
I recently went to my local decathlon store and we was discussing how they allow you to trade in existing bikes for their bikes on show which i thought was amazing so you could always keep trading in and pay the difference. i then mentioned about my bike rockrider am 100s and said i dont really like how the cables go down the bottom of the frame underneath and he replied this. as a bike mechanic its so much better when the cables are displayed outside the bike as when they are inside like you mentioned now its a nightmare to fish them out if they get stuck inside the bike frame. he then showed me a tool the decathlon staff made which looked like a small bottle cleaner type thing with a hook on the end. they said they have to push this into the frame and try and hook the cables inside the bike on the hook and then fish it out which is hard work to do. so he is saying its better to have cables on display for easier maintenance as a bike mechanic. i ordered some brake pads as when i went to the store lakeside cycles the guy said to me you keep your bike clean dont you i said yes. well whats happened he said is the brake pads need to get dirty with like mud so they continue to have good grip. so you should take them out use sand paper to get them rough then put back in. i dont know how to remove them so i asked him i pay for some new ones and you can fit but he could not find any for sram level. so i went to decathlon he found brake pads which sadly did not fit so i mentioned what lakeside said about rough up the existing ones and he did it and it brakes better but i anyway ordered brake pads from aliexpress they was doing 4 for a good deal and some people said lasts about 700km which google says is 434.96 miles so i said to seller do you have ones that last longer so he said yes and i purchased them. he also after asking him sent me links to show me how to add brake pads. all bike mechanics love when customer engages them with the dangers of cycling on road with car drivers looking one way and turning another the stories are a good way to bond with your mechanic. you also would not notice it on your ozark if the cables matched the frame like grey cables. the way you have it is how my bike is i have 3 cables underneath the left and right brake and the dropper wire, which comes out of the inside of the frame up the bottom of tube to the remote. the decathlon staff did the wires tight to the frame underneath so it looks neat. one of the 3 cables is greeny yellow as i bought myself some jagwire cables which has many colours. on the side your doing now by the disc brake i have just the frame but the other side by the chain i have a cool lizard skin frame guard but my chain is done so well by staff it never ever hits the lizard skin frame protect which is a velcro material cover. also i use the rubber casings you can buy to put on wires to stop them rubbing the paint on frame very good so if your hearing a noise as you said from the work you did under the frame if wire gives you enough space can use the rubber things place on wire twist them so they dont fall off super cheap and blend with the bike. i saw them in red and black i got black from aliexpress very long and very good. i typed so much lol.
Great stuff. Your attention to detail is unmatched. The stick on cable holders are genius and very informative. Looks great, performs better, and more importantly on a budget.
You can make a clean zip cut without the sidebite by doing two cuts. One close to where you want, at the slight angle. Then you can go in straight on with the snip.
Kev, not a bad idea with those clips. I would place them underneath of the top tube (inside of the triangle), then run them down to the top of seat stay.
So I'm kind of confused looking at these brakes. Is there no bleed port or reservoir in the levers? If there's no reservoir at the lever I would absolutely not ride these (no reservoir means locked brakes if the hydraulic fluid expands too much, or no brakes if you lose even the slightest amount of fluid from the system). Like normally I'd give whoever engineered this brake system the benefit of the doubt, but cheap imports being what they are, I'm not sure how charitable I'd be in this case. I'd love to see a teardown of one of the levers, maybe you can pull apart the squishy one, that shows how it's built inside.
Well, you get what you pay for..... sometimes ? I'm still going to do upgrades to the Schwinn Axum I have. I plan on putting hydro brakes on it also. Donating it to a local charity to auction off in the spring. Thank you for your great videos.
I thought about going with something like that for my Ozark Trail, but if you hunt around as I'm sure you do, you can find the Shimano MT200's for about the same price. My only issue was I needed a longer hose for the rear since I used the internal routing.
Sounds like they included extra air free of charge. I'm interested where you end up because my son's bike could stand an upgrade to the generic cable discs.
I think if you buy low end product to save money( which I get) you will have to expect things like this will happen and you will have to adjust . Perhaps you can add videos about how you corrected the flaw so people will have a reference to go by.
Just a question - where is the fill/bleed screw on the Bucklos reservoir? I don't see one on the top and that is where they usually are in order to get all the air out....
I had that same set on a Mongoose Juneau. They worked fine, but there are no bleed/fill ports on the levers. I could see trying to bleed them being nearly impossible.
If I were you, I would change the fluid. That is one area they will definitely cheap out on. If the rear brake has absorbed any moisture, it would cause the exact problem you are having. Also, if you know how to do it, you should never order pre-filled hydraulic brakes unless it's sram or shimano or tektro or some other well known name brand. Always use the highest grade fluid compatible with the set.
I have a very sceptical look on "pre-bled" hydraulic brake sets. Even my set of magura mt5 came with a good amount of air in the line and bleeding them made a huge difference.
I use Shimano MT 200s and the are pre-bled too. They come with a perfect pressure point from factory, you can't feel a difference compared to them in factory condition or after a proper bleed.
i bought cheap meroca m4 4 piston brakes that came pre bled. whoever did it must have been a proper bike mechanic as there wasnt one air bubble and they rival my hope 4s
I had a pretty bad experience with the ozark trail. I really tried building the bike mys3lf. in the end, I'd put the h3adset bearings upside down or something, and so the frame expanded, rendering the star nut, unable to close into the fram3 completely. Making the frame useless
I have a real MT 200 on the front and stock Gotrax mechanical on the back of my 29er and its amazing. Only took a few rides to get used to the 2 different pulls. I'd say your problem was the extreme foliage debris and not giving yourself time to get used to the mods.
Bucklos just seems to be a rebranding done by the importer presumably. No different to major bike brands who have brands like Bontrager or Synchros to make it look like you are getting branded components on a bike rather than generic. Bucklos is clearly re-branding cheaper components which in this case I think are 'Tanke' hydraulic disc brakes so later on if you need replacement brake pads you might need to look for 'Tanke' replacements unless they use the same pads as more common brakes like Shimano, quite a few of the cheaper brakes do. I'm confused by the Bucklos though as the Tanke versions have a screw in bolt as the bleed port I think on the part of the brakes that looks like a thread next to where the cable enters. Either these are fitted upside down (perhaps the branding is on the wrong side) or Bucklos have gone cheap and don't bother to have a bleed port. You'll see what I mean if you search Tanke hydraulic disc brakes on aliexpress, same brakes but bleed port bolt clearly shown.
Pretty sure the bucklos branding is the Chinese distributor branding. Bike factories often have branding for their OEM parts i.e prowheel chanks with custom markings but those aren't brands a customer can actually purchase on the open market so not really the same thing.
@@donpalmera I've seen Bucklos on products which seem to be coming from many different factories. Maybe a brand of a Chinese trade house? The type of company that buys a large volume of parts from a manufacturer at a high volume price and then distributes them itself in lower quantities. Those typically buy from lots of different factories not much different from a importer in the US except operating from within China and exporting. I used to deal with Chinese imports and sometimes it was cheaper to go through a trade house than the manufacturer itself. I feel like Tanke are the manufacturer brand and Bucklos is another retail brand rather than OEM as both brands are sold to end consumers. Bucklos suspension forks aren't connected with Tanke I think although not checked I must admit.
@@bonzobanana1 > I've seen Bucklos on products which seem to be coming from many different factories. I think your theory of them buying stuff from multiple factories and retailing it under their brand is probably correct. But I don't think it's impossible that other factories are just sticking what they think is a reputable brand on their stuff and then dumping it on amazon. They'd really like to put "fox", "shimano" on their stuff but thats going to get instantly flagged. Checking whoever actually legally owns one of the many China original brands would be pretty difficult.
@@KevCentral I never bought much of there until I seen those brakes and the shimano 5100 deore group set with shifter for 50 bucks as well gave it a shot and I received within 10 days and the items were as listed
In Europe you can get front and rear Shimano MT 200s together for 50 € and for around 70 AUD in Australia, in both cases by non Chinese dealers from inside the country. Personally I wouldn't trust Chinese dealers with Shimano parts, they also offer inexpensive M8000 Deore XT Hubs but you don't know if they are original or if they are Chinese copies.
I'm not really too concerned with looks usually but those things look cheap. Shimanos low tier stuff is ok and doesn't make you think "I hope my dentist can glue my teeth back together" just from the look of them.
These are a pain to bleed.Once they start leaking they're pretty much done.You'll find an assortment of these brakes with the same design only with different branding.That alone is already a red flag
46 bucks buys another tier level of hydraulics. Beyond M9000 series hydraulics are 55 bucks per set. Zoom HB 875 are beyond SHIMANO MT200 level and cost less. Whatever set that is belongs on the lower end of the hydraulic brake spectrum, and isnt representative of what 46 bucks or about actually gets you in the aftermarket in 2023. The equivalent of the set you have is about 25 dollars WITHOUT the coupons, but nowhere near 40 some odd dollars. Thats half the cost and a big deal.
I would love to hear the technical explanation of why a dual piston is "better" than a single piston and not actually worse. Just about every car I have ever owned has had single piston disc brakes, both power and manual. If 1 piston is good enough for a 3500 pound car that goes 80 mph, 1 piston is good enough for a bike. My guess is dual piston brakes are actually worse than single piston in most situations. Your hand can only generate so much force. Splitting that force into 2 (both of which have friction) has got to have some downsides. You can leak more with 2 cylinders. Frankly, for most situations, discs are no better than rim brakes on the street. Where they (disc) are better they are MUCH better. Rain is a perfect example. If you have to bike in the rain, it can be difficult to stop a bike in the rain with rim brakes. But there is not a set of properly adjusted rim brakes that cannot lock the wheels in dry conditions. It's really mountain biking where hydraulic disc brakes really shine. The mechanical advantage is so high that you can lock the wheels with 2 fingers quite easily. You would get hand cramps quick with rim brakes on downhill riding. A Model A ford has mechanical brakes, no hydraulics. But a properly adjusted braking system on a Model A can lock all 4 wheels with a woman operating the pedal.
@@KevCentral OK, but what's better about dual piston brakes? The pads are tiny. It might be that they use extremely small pistons. If they are very small, that would apply more even braking to the pad. But even then, you would probably get more improvement with a bigger piston.
Here is the answer to your question. It's true your car/truck only has piston on one side however the caliper on motor vehicle brakes has the ability to slide within its mount allowing the pressure from the single piston to be distributed equally to both sides of the rotor. Bicycle brakes that are single piston require the piston to deform or flex the rotor pushing it over into the stationary pad in order to apply the force evenly to both sides, dual piston brakes squeeze the rotor from both sides without deforming the rotor which is way more efficient and effective. The force you provide when squeezing the lever is not divided by two it is doubled because you've doubled the area that the pressurized fluid can act upon.
@@oldmansadventures4627 I thought the dual piston calipers only apply force on one side. AFAIK, you get twice the force by halving the area. Halving the size will quadruple the force. (a 6" circle has 4 times the area as a 3" circle) Thanks for the reply.
@@tarstarkusz that's a negative, bicycle dual piston brakes have a piston on each side of the caliper. Automotive dual piston calipers have both pistons on the inside but again the calipers are free to slide inside their mounting bracket therefore pressure on rotors is applied equally on both sides. 10 psi applied to 1 square inch equals 10 pounds of force. The same 10 psi applied to 2 square inches equals 20 pounds of force. That's why a 2 ton hydraulic jack is slim while a 20 ton hydraulic jack is fat, the operating pressure is the same but the increased area allows more lifting force. Hope that helps!
![BRASIL vs. URUGUAY [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-hWBAuxF1eY/mqdefault.jpg)
I trust your opinion more than most, you're honest and mostly unbiased.
Everyone else will dog something just because they can do it publicly.
You're the project parm of bicycles, please don't stop doing what you do XD
I been using zoom brakes and so after 3 years on xc bike 0 problems . I’ve been happy with them I picked up a 2nd set for my ns eccentric I’m building up.
Every time I am in my garage banging away on the bikes and I make a purchase on Amazon and pick the least expensive option... I know I can come right over here and find out what I am going to get when the delivery guy gets here!
Thanks so much!
I put the real MT 200s on my Dolomite. Yes a little extra vs the Bucklos but like a gas station burrito, there are things you dont cheap out on.
I recently went to my local decathlon store and we was discussing how they allow you to trade in existing bikes for their bikes on show which i thought was amazing so you could always keep trading in and pay the difference. i then mentioned about my bike rockrider am 100s and said i dont really like how the cables go down the bottom of the frame underneath and he replied this. as a bike mechanic its so much better when the cables are displayed outside the bike as when they are inside like you mentioned now its a nightmare to fish them out if they get stuck inside the bike frame. he then showed me a tool the decathlon staff made which looked like a small bottle cleaner type thing with a hook on the end. they said they have to push this into the frame and try and hook the cables inside the bike on the hook and then fish it out which is hard work to do. so he is saying its better to have cables on display for easier maintenance as a bike mechanic. i ordered some brake pads as when i went to the store lakeside cycles the guy said to me you keep your bike clean dont you i said yes. well whats happened he said is the brake pads need to get dirty with like mud so they continue to have good grip. so you should take them out use sand paper to get them rough then put back in. i dont know how to remove them so i asked him i pay for some new ones and you can fit but he could not find any for sram level. so i went to decathlon he found brake pads which sadly did not fit so i mentioned what lakeside said about rough up the existing ones and he did it and it brakes better but i anyway ordered brake pads from aliexpress they was doing 4 for a good deal and some people said lasts about 700km which google says is 434.96 miles so i said to seller do you have ones that last longer so he said yes and i purchased them. he also after asking him sent me links to show me how to add brake pads. all bike mechanics love when customer engages them with the dangers of cycling on road with car drivers looking one way and turning another the stories are a good way to bond with your mechanic. you also would not notice it on your ozark if the cables matched the frame like grey cables. the way you have it is how my bike is i have 3 cables underneath the left and right brake and the dropper wire, which comes out of the inside of the frame up the bottom of tube to the remote. the decathlon staff did the wires tight to the frame underneath so it looks neat. one of the 3 cables is greeny yellow as i bought myself some jagwire cables which has many colours. on the side your doing now by the disc brake i have just the frame but the other side by the chain i have a cool lizard skin frame guard but my chain is done so well by staff it never ever hits the lizard skin frame protect which is a velcro material cover. also i use the rubber casings you can buy to put on wires to stop them rubbing the paint on frame very good so if your hearing a noise as you said from the work you did under the frame if wire gives you enough space can use the rubber things place on wire twist them so they dont fall off super cheap and blend with the bike. i saw them in red and black i got black from aliexpress very long and very good. i typed so much lol.
You can get lower end Shimano brakes pretty cheap now. I would probably stick with them.
Yeah a set of Shimano MT 200s front and rear is around 50€ in EU and around 70 AUD in Australia. They are reliable and you easily get pads for them.
This past summer I found shimano mt200s for $27 each.
got a set way cheaper,worked great.@@simonm1447
@@simonm1447 for sure, and upgrading to deore levers makes for a super solid budget set
I used those clips on my Hyper Hydroform. They worked great and are cheap enough to replace if you need to. The Schwalbe's look great on the Ozark.
Definitely looks better with the new mounts and the black zipties,Kev!
Great stuff. Your attention to detail is unmatched. The stick on cable holders are genius and very informative. Looks great, performs better, and more importantly on a budget.
Finally reviewing brakes
That gray and yellow really stands out.
For metal C clips sometimes you can squeeze them with pliers. That usually stops them from rattling.
You can make a clean zip cut without the sidebite by doing two cuts. One close to where you want, at the slight angle. Then you can go in straight on with the snip.
I was wondering where the bleed port was on the levers? A bleed would probably make a big difference in the feel.
Kev, not a bad idea with those clips. I would place them underneath of the top tube (inside of the triangle), then run them down to the top of seat stay.
I'm running Tanke hyd brakes, as cheap as the bucklos, & Bolany airforks on my Merida Big7 that I've upgraded on the cheap
Zoom/buclos on 2 bikes. Never let me down in the mtns of Appalachia.
I just got a Bucklos integrated headset thats nice. Actually putting it in a very high end frame.
So I'm kind of confused looking at these brakes. Is there no bleed port or reservoir in the levers? If there's no reservoir at the lever I would absolutely not ride these (no reservoir means locked brakes if the hydraulic fluid expands too much, or no brakes if you lose even the slightest amount of fluid from the system). Like normally I'd give whoever engineered this brake system the benefit of the doubt, but cheap imports being what they are, I'm not sure how charitable I'd be in this case. I'd love to see a teardown of one of the levers, maybe you can pull apart the squishy one, that shows how it's built inside.
Well, you get what you pay for..... sometimes ? I'm still going to do upgrades to the Schwinn Axum I have. I plan on putting hydro brakes on it also. Donating it to a local charity to auction off in the spring. Thank you for your great videos.
I think a bleed would make a big difference on brake feel, it did for my Tanke set
I thought about going with something like that for my Ozark Trail, but if you hunt around as I'm sure you do, you can find the Shimano MT200's for about the same price. My only issue was I needed a longer hose for the rear since I used the internal routing.
Sounds like they included extra air free of charge. I'm interested where you end up because my son's bike could stand an upgrade to the generic cable discs.
I think if you buy low end product to save money( which I get) you will have to expect things like this will happen and you will have to adjust . Perhaps you can add videos about how you corrected the flaw so people will have a reference to go by.
I have three sets of Zoom hydraulics on three different brakes. They rock. $60 per set.
Just a question - where is the fill/bleed screw on the Bucklos reservoir? I don't see one on the top and that is where they usually are in order to get all the air out....
thank you kev,you helped me meet the "fookers" very satisfied and thanks for the review of affordable components( is your surname "central"?
I paid $50 for my Shimano MT200 brakes from Amazon for my Hyper Explorer 29 hardtail budget build.
I had that same set on a Mongoose Juneau. They worked fine, but there are no bleed/fill ports on the levers. I could see trying to bleed them being nearly impossible.
If I were you, I would change the fluid. That is one area they will definitely cheap out on. If the rear brake has absorbed any moisture, it would cause the exact problem you are having.
Also, if you know how to do it, you should never order pre-filled hydraulic brakes unless it's sram or shimano or tektro or some other well known name brand. Always use the highest grade fluid compatible with the set.
I have a very sceptical look on "pre-bled" hydraulic brake sets. Even my set of magura mt5 came with a good amount of air in the line and bleeding them made a huge difference.
I use Shimano MT 200s and the are pre-bled too. They come with a perfect pressure point from factory, you can't feel a difference compared to them in factory condition or after a proper bleed.
i bought cheap meroca m4 4 piston brakes that came pre bled. whoever did it must have been a proper bike mechanic as there wasnt one air bubble and they rival my hope 4s
Ive found the zooms to be much better but these worked for me for a short time till caliper started bleeding off
I had a pretty bad experience with the ozark trail. I really tried building the bike mys3lf. in the end, I'd put the h3adset bearings upside down or something, and so the frame expanded, rendering the star nut, unable to close into the fram3 completely. Making the frame useless
So how is the performance in extreme conditions? Like in the cold or wet, do they squeal or have sub par braking power? Brake fade on long descents?
I have a real MT 200 on the front and stock Gotrax mechanical on the back of my 29er and its amazing. Only took a few rides to get used to the 2 different pulls. I'd say your problem was the extreme foliage debris and not giving yourself time to get used to the mods.
I probably would have just routed them in the frame.... and IF they had air in it.... the forced bleed would be necessary anyways.
Bucklos make a 4 piston hydraulic brake set. They work great Kev….
Going to have to stock up on
those stick on clips. Didn’t even know they existed, nice feature and alternative to zip ties on a mountain bike.
Plastic clips might not rattle as much.
best cheap hydraulic brakes and theyre 4 piston are the meroca m4 brakes. they rival my hope 4s
Bucklos just seems to be a rebranding done by the importer presumably. No different to major bike brands who have brands like Bontrager or Synchros to make it look like you are getting branded components on a bike rather than generic. Bucklos is clearly re-branding cheaper components which in this case I think are 'Tanke' hydraulic disc brakes so later on if you need replacement brake pads you might need to look for 'Tanke' replacements unless they use the same pads as more common brakes like Shimano, quite a few of the cheaper brakes do. I'm confused by the Bucklos though as the Tanke versions have a screw in bolt as the bleed port I think on the part of the brakes that looks like a thread next to where the cable enters. Either these are fitted upside down (perhaps the branding is on the wrong side) or Bucklos have gone cheap and don't bother to have a bleed port. You'll see what I mean if you search Tanke hydraulic disc brakes on aliexpress, same brakes but bleed port bolt clearly shown.
Pretty sure the bucklos branding is the Chinese distributor branding.
Bike factories often have branding for their OEM parts i.e prowheel chanks with custom markings but those aren't brands a customer can actually purchase on the open market so not really the same thing.
@@donpalmera I've seen Bucklos on products which seem to be coming from many different factories. Maybe a brand of a Chinese trade house? The type of company that buys a large volume of parts from a manufacturer at a high volume price and then distributes them itself in lower quantities. Those typically buy from lots of different factories not much different from a importer in the US except operating from within China and exporting. I used to deal with Chinese imports and sometimes it was cheaper to go through a trade house than the manufacturer itself. I feel like Tanke are the manufacturer brand and Bucklos is another retail brand rather than OEM as both brands are sold to end consumers. Bucklos suspension forks aren't connected with Tanke I think although not checked I must admit.
@@bonzobanana1
> I've seen Bucklos on products which seem to be coming from many different factories.
I think your theory of them buying stuff from multiple factories and retailing it under their brand is probably correct. But I don't think it's impossible that other factories are just sticking what they think is a reputable brand on their stuff and then dumping it on amazon. They'd really like to put "fox", "shimano" on their stuff but thats going to get instantly flagged. Checking whoever actually legally owns one of the many China original brands would be pretty difficult.
These are probably made on a sidewalk in Guangzhou, or in workers’ apartments or courtyards, so you can’t expect much in the way of quality control.
On Temu they have shimano mt200s for 50 bucks complete set
I don’t trust anything on Temu 😬
@@KevCentral I never bought much of there until I seen those brakes and the shimano 5100 deore group set with shifter for 50 bucks as well gave it a shot and I received within 10 days and the items were as listed
In Europe you can get front and rear Shimano MT 200s together for 50 € and for around 70 AUD in Australia, in both cases by non Chinese dealers from inside the country.
Personally I wouldn't trust Chinese dealers with Shimano parts, they also offer inexpensive M8000 Deore XT Hubs but you don't know if they are original or if they are Chinese copies.
Good info
I'm not really too concerned with looks usually but those things look cheap. Shimanos low tier stuff is ok and doesn't make you think "I hope my dentist can glue my teeth back together" just from the look of them.
Those zip ties are only ugly because you tried to match the yellow color to the grips haha
Brakes are fine the Shimano brakes are also weak in the rear
Just buy shimano mt200 for 15 bucks from someone who pulled them off his new bike. Done.
Just ride mechanical brakes and be a man.
@@BrickedHonoryou use brakes?
You should have wiped with alchool before sticking them.
I did. I mentioned I had cleaned the area before I started - that was with alcohol
These are a pain to bleed.Once they start leaking they're pretty much done.You'll find an assortment of these brakes with the same design only with different branding.That alone is already a red flag
46 bucks buys another tier level of hydraulics. Beyond M9000 series hydraulics are 55 bucks per set. Zoom HB 875 are beyond SHIMANO MT200 level and cost less. Whatever set that is belongs on the lower end of the hydraulic brake spectrum, and isnt representative of what 46 bucks or about actually gets you in the aftermarket in 2023. The equivalent of the set you have is about 25 dollars WITHOUT the coupons, but nowhere near 40 some odd dollars. Thats half the cost and a big deal.
Wow, cheap brakes feel cheap...who knew!?!?! 😂
bro just get mt200's
I would love to hear the technical explanation of why a dual piston is "better" than a single piston and not actually worse. Just about every car I have ever owned has had single piston disc brakes, both power and manual. If 1 piston is good enough for a 3500 pound car that goes 80 mph, 1 piston is good enough for a bike.
My guess is dual piston brakes are actually worse than single piston in most situations. Your hand can only generate so much force. Splitting that force into 2 (both of which have friction) has got to have some downsides. You can leak more with 2 cylinders.
Frankly, for most situations, discs are no better than rim brakes on the street. Where they (disc) are better they are MUCH better. Rain is a perfect example. If you have to bike in the rain, it can be difficult to stop a bike in the rain with rim brakes. But there is not a set of properly adjusted rim brakes that cannot lock the wheels in dry conditions.
It's really mountain biking where hydraulic disc brakes really shine. The mechanical advantage is so high that you can lock the wheels with 2 fingers quite easily. You would get hand cramps quick with rim brakes on downhill riding.
A Model A ford has mechanical brakes, no hydraulics. But a properly adjusted braking system on a Model A can lock all 4 wheels with a woman operating the pedal.
I’m just using an analogy to say they’re different
@@KevCentral OK, but what's better about dual piston brakes? The pads are tiny. It might be that they use extremely small pistons. If they are very small, that would apply more even braking to the pad. But even then, you would probably get more improvement with a bigger piston.
Here is the answer to your question. It's true your car/truck only has piston on one side however the caliper on motor vehicle brakes has the ability to slide within its mount allowing the pressure from the single piston to be distributed equally to both sides of the rotor. Bicycle brakes that are single piston require the piston to deform or flex the rotor pushing it over into the stationary pad in order to apply the force evenly to both sides, dual piston brakes squeeze the rotor from both sides without deforming the rotor which is way more efficient and effective. The force you provide when squeezing the lever is not divided by two it is doubled because you've doubled the area that the pressurized fluid can act upon.
@@oldmansadventures4627 I thought the dual piston calipers only apply force on one side.
AFAIK, you get twice the force by halving the area. Halving the size will quadruple the force. (a 6" circle has 4 times the area as a 3" circle)
Thanks for the reply.
@@tarstarkusz that's a negative, bicycle dual piston brakes have a piston on each side of the caliper. Automotive dual piston calipers have both pistons on the inside but again the calipers are free to slide inside their mounting bracket therefore pressure on rotors is applied equally on both sides.
10 psi applied to 1 square inch equals 10 pounds of force. The same 10 psi applied to 2 square inches equals 20 pounds of force. That's why a 2 ton hydraulic jack is slim while a 20 ton hydraulic jack is fat, the operating pressure is the same but the increased area allows more lifting force.
Hope that helps!
Buck loss.
The
zip ties
If the throw is that different, one of them are not bleed properly. Looking at the action it's obviously the rear.