Great illustration and explanation again for no till planting. I'm in my 3rd year of doing it in south Alabama, and still can't believe the number of hunters I know that don't "get it". Not only is it all you described and stated, it's less work and money and time on the tractor. Keep preaching!
I been doing notill for 4-5 season, I found drilling in a cover crop such as sorghum in late spring and by late summer drill right Thur the sorghum every other row with my fall bend makes the best food plots in pressured areas because you are providing a standing cover crop for them to feed in, bucks are encouraged to come into such area in day lite time.
Grant and Team, Thanks for producing another great educational video yet again! Thanks for filling all the voids (there are many:)) in my continuing education about use of the no-till drill and utilizing blends. You answered a question I had for many years - namely, if one uses blends with all different sizes of seeds, how deep should the blend be planted? Your explanation makes perfect sense! I was wondering why I wasn’t getting good germination from the blends (Green Cover seeds) I was planting - it was likely that I was planting to deeply (based on the larger seeds in the blend) and perhaps driving too fast. I’m going to plant my fall blend at 1/2 in, drive more slowly, and see how things work out this fall! Thank you again.
Amen! The good Lord created the best techniques. Man has offered short cuts but choose carefully as with life. The easy way is not always the best. Thank you Doc for all your teachings.
Is it better to plant into tall thatch then spray…or better to get it cut shallow, spray, and drill through the minimum of resistance? I have a lighter no til - Kasko Versa drill. Thanks.
You make a great argument for no bad chemicals and how it kills the dung beetles and other wildlife. Same with treated seed. I could not agree with you more. However, on your other videos you use the herbicides to Hack and Squirt trees. That's where I disagree, I own acreage and I'm going to do a lot of TSI in the coming months and years, but I will never put a herbicide in my trees. That herbicide in a dead tree has got to be passed on to the insects and woodpeckers and so-forth.
I established have perennial clover plots that look good made it through summer and are popping good! I know you guys dont plant solid clover stands.. but do you have experience drilling into existing clover fields? I was considering drilling a lighter rate of oats, wheat and cereal rye directly into it. Thank you!
If the clover is growing good it can outcompete the new crop (drilled in). This is more likely during the spring when the clover is growing rapidly. If your clover stands are thick it could outcompete anything drilled in now.
@@GrowingDeerTV I was worried about that… because it’s pretty thick in most areas. I was just wanting something come colder winter. I’m in lower Alabama… I’m curious to see how the clover does when it’s our “winter”
Ive always told people who built new houses, to purchase a couple dozen worms from a baitshop. Then distribute them on a rainy nite on the yard. Itll help their lawn, building a house, kills most of the critters in the ground around the house.
Unfortunately they are so expensive most people simply cannot afford one. Pretty much the same for a crimper as well. I most certainly would like to both pieces of equipment.
Fortunately, the NRCS (National Resource Conservation Service) rents no till drills for a very low price. Most offices have drills and there's an office in most counties. Check them out!
Have you ever tried or considered adding earthworms that you purchase to jumpstart the earthworm community in your food plots? I have no evidence of having any earthworms and I just started going to the no-till system
The tillage proponents say “ I gotta put oxygen in the root zone” oh dear. Drive thru Illinois in about 2.5 months, it’ll be Black Friday all week. Rich Land, Poor Country, as Aldo said.
I have been using a no-till drill for my food plots without any disking. I believe I set my depth properly, but a problem I have is seeds getting planted at different depths. I assume this is due to my drill going over uneven terrain. I am tempted to lightly disk, and possibly also cultipack, my fields prior to planting to help level my ground and, therefore, achieve more consistent planting depth using my no-till drill. Is there a better solution to this problem? Thank you!
It will be best if you don't disk and/or cultipack. May I ask how fast the tractor is going? Uneven ground may be part of the issue, but I find many folks driving so fast that the drill is bouncing.
@@GrowingDeerTV I usually plant at 3 or 4 mph. I took note that you plant at 1.5 to 2 mph. I will try that. I can see where that would help in terms of reducing or eliminating the drill bouncing. However, if uneven ground is the problem, it appears I need a solution for that as well. Thank you!
Great illustration and explanation again for no till planting. I'm in my 3rd year of doing it in south Alabama, and still can't believe the number of hunters I know that don't "get it". Not only is it all you described and stated, it's less work and money and time on the tractor. Keep preaching!
I been doing notill for 4-5 season, I found drilling in a cover crop such as sorghum in late spring and by late summer drill right Thur the sorghum every other row with my fall bend makes the best food plots in pressured areas because you are providing a standing cover crop for them to feed in, bucks are encouraged to come into such area in day lite time.
Great technique!
Grant and Team, Thanks for producing another great educational video yet again! Thanks for filling all the voids (there are many:)) in my continuing education about use of the no-till drill and utilizing blends. You answered a question I had for many years - namely, if one uses blends with all different sizes of seeds, how deep should the blend be planted? Your explanation makes perfect sense! I was wondering why I wasn’t getting good germination from the blends (Green Cover seeds) I was planting - it was likely that I was planting to deeply (based on the larger seeds in the blend) and perhaps driving too fast. I’m going to plant my fall blend at 1/2 in, drive more slowly, and see how things work out this fall! Thank you again.
Amen! The good Lord created the best techniques. Man has offered short cuts but choose carefully as with life. The easy way is not always the best. Thank you Doc for all your teachings.
Another great episode.
Very helpful thank you sir!
Is it better to plant into tall thatch then spray…or better to get it cut shallow, spray, and drill through the minimum of resistance?
I have a lighter no til - Kasko Versa drill. Thanks.
You make a great argument for no bad chemicals and how it kills the dung beetles and other wildlife. Same with treated seed. I could not agree with you more.
However, on your other videos you use the herbicides to Hack and Squirt trees. That's where I disagree, I own acreage and I'm going to do a lot of TSI in the coming months and years, but I will never put a herbicide in my trees. That herbicide in a dead tree has got to be passed on to the insects and woodpeckers and so-forth.
What happened with the genesis drill?
Genesis stopped making drills.
I established have perennial clover plots that look good made it through summer and are popping good! I know you guys dont plant solid clover stands.. but do you have experience drilling into existing clover fields? I was considering drilling a lighter rate of oats, wheat and cereal rye directly into it. Thank you!
If the clover is growing good it can outcompete the new crop (drilled in). This is more likely during the spring when the clover is growing rapidly. If your clover stands are thick it could outcompete anything drilled in now.
@@GrowingDeerTV I was worried about that… because it’s pretty thick in most areas. I was just wanting something come colder winter. I’m in lower Alabama… I’m curious to see how the clover does when it’s our “winter”
Ive always told people who built new houses, to purchase a couple dozen worms from a baitshop. Then distribute them on a rainy nite on the yard. Itll help their lawn, building a house, kills most of the critters in the ground around the house.
How do you break a hardpan if you already have one and want to minimize J roots in the future and switch to no till
My guess would be with a deep growing radish…
Milo
Annual rye has a good reputation.
I hope to be able to get back to native grasses soon to improve my rocky hardpan soil.
@@carl6153 You referring to cereal or grass?
Plant roots are great at tillage!
Unfortunately they are so expensive most people simply cannot afford one. Pretty much the same for a crimper as well. I most certainly would like to both pieces of equipment.
Fortunately, the NRCS (National Resource Conservation Service) rents no till drills for a very low price. Most offices have drills and there's an office in most counties. Check them out!
Going across a field will cause compaction also
Use a v ripper to get rid of hardpan
Rippers result in deep compaction. It's much better to have living roots to reduce/eliminate compaction and feed microbes.
Good stuff. Find quality soil and you’ll find quality deer. Find poor soil and you’ll find poor deer.
Grant do you crimp after seeding your fall blends
Frank - It depends on the condition of the summer plot including weed populations, amount of sun reaching the soil, etc.
Have you ever tried or considered adding earthworms that you purchase to jumpstart the earthworm community in your food plots? I have no evidence of having any earthworms and I just started going to the no-till system
Spray, throw and mow is another effective way to plant food plots and it's relatively inexpnsive.
Works good if the rains cooperate!
You need rain for no till also@@GrowingDeerTV
Why did you switch grain drill brands?
Genesis went out of business.
Do you ever have trouble following where you have drilled previously on a new field? Planting green helps see where you have gone!
I don't - but the soil type where you are may be different.
The tillage proponents say “ I gotta put oxygen in the root zone” oh dear. Drive thru Illinois in about 2.5 months, it’ll be Black Friday all week. Rich Land, Poor Country, as Aldo said.
If only I had a money tree lol
Been watching you for years and just realized you were Biologics 🤯
Yup - me and other guy started BioLogic many years ago and I enede up selling it to Mossy Oak.
I have been using a no-till drill for my food plots without any disking. I believe I set my depth properly, but a problem I have is seeds getting planted at different depths. I assume this is due to my drill going over uneven terrain. I am tempted to lightly disk, and possibly also cultipack, my fields prior to planting to help level my ground and, therefore, achieve more consistent planting depth using my no-till drill. Is there a better solution to this problem? Thank you!
It will be best if you don't disk and/or cultipack. May I ask how fast the tractor is going? Uneven ground may be part of the issue, but I find many folks driving so fast that the drill is bouncing.
Have you ever watched the video on RUclips titled, 12 April's Dairy?
He uses an interesting approach to planting.
@@GrowingDeerTV I usually plant at 3 or 4 mph. I took note that you plant at 1.5 to 2 mph. I will try that. I can see where that would help in terms of reducing or eliminating the drill bouncing. However, if uneven ground is the problem, it appears I need a solution for that as well. Thank you!
@@mtpocketswoodenickle2637 They have many videos. Do you recall which one or recall how they use their no-till drill? Thank you!
@@gregoryandre8717
I believe it's captioned; sustainable April's Dairy grazing?