I've got a good trick for pulling rows of through hole connections from a PCB. I learned it from the CTO of an electronics manufacturing company, where I worked as a process engineer. Flow a bunch of solder onto the set of contacts to make an inline blob. run the iron back and forth in the blob, and it will gradually flow all of the contacts uniformly and simulataneously. by distributing the heat through the blob to many contacts, you'll also prevent lifting any pads, as they never go dry and stick to the dry iron head. This technique is one of the reasons why I solder almost everything with a 5mm chisel head tip. Better heat transfer, works great for SMT and through hole, and great for a number of pin cleaning tricks for surface mount and through hole ICs.
Hmmm, that's a good trick. As long as it doesn't over heat the part, that's one thing I was worried about, but the faster you get it done, the better right ? I tend to use a wide chisel for most soldering too. It doesn't help that I was rusty when I shot this. I was almost embarrassed in editing, but I decided to go with it.
Thoroughly enjoyed this. I have one. I also have a JCM800 that I tone lizarded? then went back to stock, although I sometimes solder the leg back on the resistor that hangs on the cold clipper. I’ve always thought that classic “Marshall’ distortion is more about the PI getting saturated and the power section compression. There’s a fine line around 7 that she does her thing. I kinda enjoy having control over tweaking the cascaded gain on the Traynor. I don’t want her to be my Marshall. You rock, man. I want to beers with you! Cheers from the left coast!
Tone Lizard, I remember that site. Learned alot from it back in the day when I first got into this. Classic distortion in general does come from the whole amp distorting. Modern distortion, which I do prefer, comes from the preamp, with a clean and tight power section. But with this mod, you can choose either one. Cheers from Northern Ontario.
Very cool video, thanks for posting. I picked one up for 100CAD. Of course it's in non working condition. I'm thinking of trying it as a diy project. Your video has given me some confidence to poke around.
Luckily they are very straight forward amps, super simple, the schematic is easy to find, only thing is knowing how to work with PCB's. It's the kind of amp any decent tech should be able to fix. That's a damn good price even for non working. Only catch is tube prices are out of control right now, and fresh tubes are kind of a must. Just be careful, remember there is about 440volts in that amp.
@@DATT Thanks man. I'm a refrigeration mechanic so I know basic electrical. The tolex and grille cloth has seen better days, I think a toddler got at it with a fork or something. The guts were untouched though.
Hey bud! I love your channel and have a question because you seem to be the Traynor guru. I recently acquired a 71' YBA1 would it be ok to put into my ampeg 6x10 bass cab? The cab is rated at 4ohm. Thanks so much 🤘🏻😊
Hah, not sure I can call myself a Traynor Guru, are I've never owned nor worked on an original YBA1. I don't have a straight answer on that one. The impedance of the output on that amp is not clear to me and I haven't tried it. I believe it's rated for 8ohm. Tho, their cabs were commonly 8ohm, and they have 2 outputs, and I'm sure Traynor figured people would plug Two 8ohm cabs in there at some point. I personally have ran my Custom Reverb into a 4 ohm Ampeg cab, and cranked it, and it worked fine, however, I didn't jam a whole set. It's a "you're probably not suppose to but can get away with it kind of thing". It'd cause your power tubes to run harder, wear them out faster. Depending on the quality of the tube and how hot they are biased it could be fine, or if they are running out of spec, they could short out and cause a light show. Not sure if that'd damage the amp. So like, to be honest, it's something I'd do myself, after I've made sure I have healthy tubes and they were running in an acceptable bias range. If you're jamming at moderate volumes, and not cranking it, I'm sure it'll be ok. It's if you dime it out. Since you jsut got the amp, and are still getting acquainted with it, I'd feel it out. Go ahead, and run it like that, don't crank it at first, but the experiment I would do, is turn the amp backwards and remove the back cover so you can clearly watch the tubes while you jam. Watch for "red plating". Internally, there is the heaters of the tube that always glow red, and you often see a "blue aura" floating around in the bottle, but the other plates you see inside the bottle should never heat up and glow red, if they do, then you know the amp is running out of spec like that and it's not safe to proceed.
@@DATT Thank you for your very detailed answer Mr. Irrelevant! Right now the amp is getting looked at. All original with Mullard Power tubes, mustard caps, etc. It definitely needed a look over. Apparently the old guitar player from Blondie rocked it before me. It was a rare find here in New Jersey, USA. I got the 71 traynor for $200 and a YT-12 vertical 2x12 for $100... I'm pretty stoked and look forward to "Do all the things!"
@@DebonaireDerek Cool. All original is NOT a good this in some cases, imagine buying a classic car, that has the original factory tires and oil. If it's a collector piece you only will use for fun once in a while, then cool, if you actually want to jam on it, use it and abuse it, it's going to need fresh tubes, and likely fresh capacitors. The bias circuit caps should be change if nothing else, so you can maintain soild bias stability on the power tubes if you're going to run it hard. That is a sweet deal man. Those YT-12 cabs, if it's the same one I've made a video of, are quality wise top notch. You'd have to spend a lot of money on a high end name brand to get anything close in this day and age. The speakers it comes with are "meh". As is, it's only good with that head if you're playing guitar, it won't take bass well at high volumes. But if you take that same cab, and put new high end drivers in it, like a Celestion or Eminience of your choice, it's actually one of the best cabs I plugged into. The heads themselves, are essentially a JTM45 or Fender Bassman, so again, a bit better suited for guitar than bass, but that's all a matter of taste.
@@DATT I appreciate what you have to say my dude. Im a fan of your channel and watched all your videos. The speakers in the 2x12 are not my favorite but like you said the cabinet itself is quality for sure. How did you get into amp repair and where did you start? I'm going down the rabbithole and just started to understand some simple schematics. Do you have any pointers/ideas of how to get a better idea on this stuff?
Ah, well I've always had an electronic aptitude and learned how to solder at an early age. Up here, Traynors were really common, you'd find them in hock shops all the time for cheap. Often worn out and needed retubes. People never wanted to pay $200 to retune a $100 amp so they jsut got continually flipped until the prevalence of the internet taught people what these were. So bascially, as a young guitar player back then, a clapped out traynor was your first tube amp, and I started by learning how to maintain them. First place I started was learning how to bias them. There is one resistor in there, you change its value to adjust the bias, the typical mod is to replace is with a pot (knob). Then you can adjust it freely. After that you can experement with different tubes. As you learn more, you do some typical modernization upgrades. It's hard to give you advice without knowing what your skill level is now. You'd need to know how to solder proficiently to move forward.
Great job ! Great video and very good details.. ! I'm working on a Traynor YGM3. What kind of mod would you recommend for the treble boost. Something to give it more bite but not to much as to over power the tubes or output transformer.. Just more sizzle and saturation. Tks, Rick..
@@DATT Old one.. I think it's a 1973 with the Treble Boost switch. Did a few mods to it like removing the .100uf cap (presence) Changed the the .100 cap at the input stage fpr a .010uf. Then removed the .001uf at the treble Boost switch for a .047uf and added a 220-k resistor from the switch to ground. That mod I picked up on you tube. It really gets narly and makes all the right sounds except it seems to triple the output of the amp. Makes me reluctant to delivery the amp to the customer, not knowing how hard that is on the amp.. Fear of having it blow-up prematurely..?
I'm confused, are Richard and Maureen talking about the same amp ? I haven't works on the YGM3 personally. Looking at the schematic, it's so simple, I can't think of much to do to it other than what Maureen has mentioned. Changing the boost cap fom .001 to .047 is going to let more signal thru when the pot is turned down, it might give the illusion of more output cause the amp gets louder faster, but the max power should be the same. Mind you, I could see removing the 0.1 presence cap effecting the output. If it was me, I would intercept the cathode of the power tubes. Measure how much current they are drawing, compare it against plate voltage read to get an idea of their wattage dissipation. They you can kind of determine if they are running too hard or not. This amp doesn't appear to be cathode biased like usual with EL84 type amps. So there is some tweeking that can be done to find tune their bias if they are running a tad to hot. Sadly, some of the best cranked amp tones come from tortured tubes. Our amps are set up conservatively compared to rock stars who have them dialed in like drag cars, and they blow thru tubes every gig, sometimes multiple sets in one gig, haha.
@@DATT Maureen is my wife.. The computer is to her name.. Not sure how computers work so.. works for me ;-) I'm Richard. I'm a small repair shop in Quebec Canada. I'm more of a guitar tech refrets, body/ neck repairs, set-up's, vintage restoration, etc.. I can service tube amps such as, mesure caps ESR/uf, bias tubes, mesure tubes, repair, mesure and replace parts, crimp sockets, burn-in amps to properly prep them for professional use.. I can do some small mods but don't really understand the how to modify circuits to get more or less gain or brightness. But if properly explain to me (like you did in your video) that I can understand. So by increasing the value of the cap from .001 to .047 gives more gain but it's more like jumping to a higher gain stage that is already there.. ? Changing the value (lower) will decrease the gain.. Good to know ! Adding the 220k resistor to the treble boost switch where the .047 cap is linked, and ground the other end of the resistor.. what does that do..? Thanks for your input ! It's very appreciated !
@@richardlacombe1736 Sorry for the delay. The caps won't boost gain persay, they just let signal bypass the pot within the FQ range they will resonate at. The 220k resistor to ground will bleed off signal, like adding a second volume knob, but with a fixed position. you could decrease that value if you think the amp is too hot. It's probably there to compensate for the perceived boost you get by changing the cap.
No, it's closer to a Type 1, but not even, cause they are not pots, and they don't ground the signal. It uses a dual gang rotary swtich, with very large resistor values, up to 4.7M, and simply inserts them into the signal path after the Pi, but before the Bias. If you're curious about this amp, just google "Traynor-yba-1mod1-schematic", the service manual with full schematic will pop right up.
Hi! great video! question.. i have the new reissue of the YBA- 1 Redux M1550 V01 bass master, think its a 50 year anniversary amp. But i found it doesnt have that dark "tractor" grit that the old one has.. is there a way to get the new one to sound like the old one..? i have changed the tubes to 6CA7 like the old one has. i have the schematics for the old one but not the new one so i cant compare the two regarding capasitors, resistors etc.. the only thing i know about the old one is that it is wired point to point compared to the new one with a PCB. Would be thankfull for any tips on this topic.
Oh, I'm not familiar with that model, and a quick search didn't bring up a schematic for me either. I'm honestly not that familiar with all the models to know how to make one sound like the other. I'd have to have them on my bench to poke at. I think if it were me, I would start by experimenting with tubes. 6CA7 is a step in the right direction, assuming they are the JJ's. They do have a darker more growly tone, but not the EH 6CA7, they have more luster to them, so it would be a step in the opposite direction. For preamp tubes, first 2, I might try jj ECC803S, not 83s, they also have a darker tone to them. For the 3rd preamp, the phase inverter, not sure. I like the Tung Sol 12AX7 usually for a good overall transparency, but they are a bit fuzzy driven, the Sovtek 5751 is a fave for it's smooth fatness. I might try the JJ ECC83S there, cause it tends to be grainy which might help what you're after, or again the 803S. That's often what it comes down to for me when I'm trying to tweek and amp at first, then I move to mods from there. I keep a collection of various relatively fresh tubes for that reason. Now that I know about this, I'll probably keep an eye out for a schematic.
@@DATT Thanks for the tips! i will for sure try out the tubes you are listing. those grainy JJ ECC83s sounds interesting. Ive been having a hard time finding the schematics for that amp but i will keep on looking.
Great, informative video and entertaining too!. I was just trying out one of the Two Note Captor with my YBA 1 head trying to go direct and found it doesn't work, the tone controls are rendered virtually useless. Also the volume as well, it wouldn't really change much by raising it. I have better results using an older style DI load box. Any idea why that might happen?
Well, I'm guessing the you cranked the amp, at which point the tone controls do little to tweek the tone but will subtly shape the distortion texture. Then the question is, which volume ?
@@DATT Hey, thanks for the reply. I didn't actually crank it up, maybe to 3 or so, and after that even the volume sort of doesn't go up. I was just going through channel one, no jumper or anything. But at a low volume there is really no tone shaping.
I need to retract my earlier statement and say you were spot on. The amp is so loud that even at 3 or 4 it's too loud for the Captor. I just tried it again and got a much better result at little below 2. Thanks for the feedback!
It's an RGX420S, friggen Unicorn. It's a copy of an Ibanez RG, so it plays fast, but it's made of you good wood, Alder, and better quality hardware. It's like a holy grail to me. I think I got it in the early 2000's.
@@DATT Nice!! Killer guitar man! Funny, I literally just bought an Ibanez Rg120 today on ebay for $250 shipped. Very similar guitar but mine won't have a floyd.
I noticed you had the bass at 10 after the mod, was this a personal preference, or was there a loss of bass after the mod? Also - huge thanks for making this video. I'll be asking my local tech to do this mod, maybe with a footswitch for the regular andJCM800 mode. Any chances you're located in Victoria or Vancouver?
There wasn't a loss in bass no. If anything the mod made the EQ more responsive in general. It's probably personal preference. I find the low end in this amp, and a proper 800 a bit lacking. They don't boom like modern amps, just adds warmth really, so yeah, I have a tendency to crank it.
Ah, there are no transistors in it. Well, there is one, but it controls the light. It's all tube, and pretty well done. Just modern electrical is all board now, it'd cost 3-4x as much to build it by hand the old way.
I've got a good trick for pulling rows of through hole connections from a PCB. I learned it from the CTO of an electronics manufacturing company, where I worked as a process engineer. Flow a bunch of solder onto the set of contacts to make an inline blob. run the iron back and forth in the blob, and it will gradually flow all of the contacts uniformly and simulataneously. by distributing the heat through the blob to many contacts, you'll also prevent lifting any pads, as they never go dry and stick to the dry iron head. This technique is one of the reasons why I solder almost everything with a 5mm chisel head tip. Better heat transfer, works great for SMT and through hole, and great for a number of pin cleaning tricks for surface mount and through hole ICs.
Hmmm, that's a good trick. As long as it doesn't over heat the part, that's one thing I was worried about, but the faster you get it done, the better right ?
I tend to use a wide chisel for most soldering too. It doesn't help that I was rusty when I shot this. I was almost embarrassed in editing, but I decided to go with it.
Thoroughly enjoyed this. I have one. I also have a JCM800 that I tone lizarded? then went back to stock, although I sometimes solder the leg back on the resistor that hangs on the cold clipper. I’ve always thought that classic “Marshall’ distortion is more about the PI getting saturated and the power section compression. There’s a fine line around 7 that she does her thing. I kinda enjoy having control over tweaking the cascaded gain on the Traynor. I don’t want her to be my Marshall. You rock, man. I want to beers with you! Cheers from the left coast!
Tone Lizard, I remember that site. Learned alot from it back in the day when I first got into this.
Classic distortion in general does come from the whole amp distorting. Modern distortion, which I do prefer, comes from the preamp, with a clean and tight power section. But with this mod, you can choose either one. Cheers from Northern Ontario.
Very cool video, thanks for posting. I picked one up for 100CAD. Of course it's in non working condition. I'm thinking of trying it as a diy project. Your video has given me some confidence to poke around.
Luckily they are very straight forward amps, super simple, the schematic is easy to find, only thing is knowing how to work with PCB's. It's the kind of amp any decent tech should be able to fix.
That's a damn good price even for non working. Only catch is tube prices are out of control right now, and fresh tubes are kind of a must. Just be careful, remember there is about 440volts in that amp.
@@DATT Thanks man. I'm a refrigeration mechanic so I know basic electrical.
The tolex and grille cloth has seen better days, I think a toddler got at it with a fork or something. The guts were untouched though.
@@jasonoak4564 Wait, was it an old original YBA1 ? Or one of these modern reissues ?
@@DATT modern reissue like in this video. It's the mod1 version which Traynor only made it for a year or so.
Oh, you describe it like an original. Hard to believe a reissue would see that much wear.
Awesome video! You ever thought about doing a video of modding effects pedals?
Funny you should say that. I've been filming a series of pedal building vids.
@@DATT Yeeeees, I've just started building a couple pedals. Would love to see your method of working on them.
Hey bud! I love your channel and have a question because you seem to be the Traynor guru. I recently acquired a 71' YBA1 would it be ok to put into my ampeg 6x10 bass cab? The cab is rated at 4ohm. Thanks so much 🤘🏻😊
Hah, not sure I can call myself a Traynor Guru, are I've never owned nor worked on an original YBA1.
I don't have a straight answer on that one. The impedance of the output on that amp is not clear to me and I haven't tried it. I believe it's rated for 8ohm. Tho, their cabs were commonly 8ohm, and they have 2 outputs, and I'm sure Traynor figured people would plug Two 8ohm cabs in there at some point.
I personally have ran my Custom Reverb into a 4 ohm Ampeg cab, and cranked it, and it worked fine, however, I didn't jam a whole set.
It's a "you're probably not suppose to but can get away with it kind of thing". It'd cause your power tubes to run harder, wear them out faster. Depending on the quality of the tube and how hot they are biased it could be fine, or if they are running out of spec, they could short out and cause a light show. Not sure if that'd damage the amp.
So like, to be honest, it's something I'd do myself, after I've made sure I have healthy tubes and they were running in an acceptable bias range. If you're jamming at moderate volumes, and not cranking it, I'm sure it'll be ok. It's if you dime it out. Since you jsut got the amp, and are still getting acquainted with it, I'd feel it out. Go ahead, and run it like that, don't crank it at first, but the experiment I would do, is turn the amp backwards and remove the back cover so you can clearly watch the tubes while you jam.
Watch for "red plating".
Internally, there is the heaters of the tube that always glow red, and you often see a "blue aura" floating around in the bottle, but the other plates you see inside the bottle should never heat up and glow red, if they do, then you know the amp is running out of spec like that and it's not safe to proceed.
@@DATT Thank you for your very detailed answer Mr. Irrelevant! Right now the amp is getting looked at. All original with Mullard Power tubes, mustard caps, etc. It definitely needed a look over. Apparently the old guitar player from Blondie rocked it before me. It was a rare find here in New Jersey, USA. I got the 71 traynor for $200 and a YT-12 vertical 2x12 for $100... I'm pretty stoked and look forward to "Do all the things!"
@@DebonaireDerek Cool.
All original is NOT a good this in some cases, imagine buying a classic car, that has the original factory tires and oil.
If it's a collector piece you only will use for fun once in a while, then cool, if you actually want to jam on it, use it and abuse it, it's going to need fresh tubes, and likely fresh capacitors. The bias circuit caps should be change if nothing else, so you can maintain soild bias stability on the power tubes if you're going to run it hard.
That is a sweet deal man. Those YT-12 cabs, if it's the same one I've made a video of, are quality wise top notch. You'd have to spend a lot of money on a high end name brand to get anything close in this day and age. The speakers it comes with are "meh". As is, it's only good with that head if you're playing guitar, it won't take bass well at high volumes. But if you take that same cab, and put new high end drivers in it, like a Celestion or Eminience of your choice, it's actually one of the best cabs I plugged into.
The heads themselves, are essentially a JTM45 or Fender Bassman, so again, a bit better suited for guitar than bass, but that's all a matter of taste.
@@DATT I appreciate what you have to say my dude. Im a fan of your channel and watched all your videos. The speakers in the 2x12 are not my favorite but like you said the cabinet itself is quality for sure.
How did you get into amp repair and where did you start? I'm going down the rabbithole and just started to understand some simple schematics. Do you have any pointers/ideas of how to get a better idea on this stuff?
Ah, well I've always had an electronic aptitude and learned how to solder at an early age. Up here, Traynors were really common, you'd find them in hock shops all the time for cheap. Often worn out and needed retubes. People never wanted to pay $200 to retune a $100 amp so they jsut got continually flipped until the prevalence of the internet taught people what these were.
So bascially, as a young guitar player back then, a clapped out traynor was your first tube amp, and I started by learning how to maintain them.
First place I started was learning how to bias them. There is one resistor in there, you change its value to adjust the bias, the typical mod is to replace is with a pot (knob). Then you can adjust it freely. After that you can experement with different tubes.
As you learn more, you do some typical modernization upgrades.
It's hard to give you advice without knowing what your skill level is now. You'd need to know how to solder proficiently to move forward.
Great job ! Great video and very good details.. ! I'm working on a Traynor YGM3. What kind of mod would you recommend for the treble boost. Something to give it more bite but not to much as to over power the tubes or output transformer.. Just more sizzle and saturation. Tks, Rick..
A new one, or an Old one ?
@@DATT Old one.. I think it's a 1973 with the Treble Boost switch. Did a few mods to it like removing the .100uf cap (presence) Changed the the .100 cap at the input stage fpr a .010uf. Then removed the .001uf at the treble Boost switch for a .047uf and added a 220-k resistor from the switch to ground. That mod I picked up on you tube. It really gets narly and makes all the right sounds except it seems to triple the output of the amp. Makes me reluctant to delivery the amp to the customer, not knowing how hard that is on the amp.. Fear of having it blow-up prematurely..?
I'm confused, are Richard and Maureen talking about the same amp ?
I haven't works on the YGM3 personally. Looking at the schematic, it's so simple, I can't think of much to do to it other than what Maureen has mentioned.
Changing the boost cap fom .001 to .047 is going to let more signal thru when the pot is turned down, it might give the illusion of more output cause the amp gets louder faster, but the max power should be the same.
Mind you, I could see removing the 0.1 presence cap effecting the output.
If it was me, I would intercept the cathode of the power tubes. Measure how much current they are drawing, compare it against plate voltage read to get an idea of their wattage dissipation.
They you can kind of determine if they are running too hard or not.
This amp doesn't appear to be cathode biased like usual with EL84 type amps. So there is some tweeking that can be done to find tune their bias if they are running a tad to hot.
Sadly, some of the best cranked amp tones come from tortured tubes. Our amps are set up conservatively compared to rock stars who have them dialed in like drag cars, and they blow thru tubes every gig, sometimes multiple sets in one gig, haha.
@@DATT Maureen is my wife.. The computer is to her name.. Not sure how computers work so.. works for me ;-) I'm Richard. I'm a small repair shop in Quebec Canada. I'm more of a guitar tech refrets, body/ neck repairs, set-up's, vintage restoration, etc.. I can service tube amps such as, mesure caps ESR/uf, bias tubes, mesure tubes, repair, mesure and replace parts, crimp sockets, burn-in amps to properly prep them for professional use.. I can do some small mods but don't really understand the how to modify circuits to get more or less gain or brightness. But if properly explain to me (like you did in your video) that I can understand. So by increasing the value of the cap from .001 to .047 gives more gain but it's more like jumping to a higher gain stage that is already there.. ? Changing the value (lower) will decrease the gain.. Good to know ! Adding the 220k resistor to the treble boost switch where the .047 cap is linked, and ground the other end of the resistor.. what does that do..? Thanks for your input ! It's very appreciated !
@@richardlacombe1736 Sorry for the delay.
The caps won't boost gain persay, they just let signal bypass the pot within the FQ range they will resonate at.
The 220k resistor to ground will bleed off signal, like adding a second volume knob, but with a fixed position.
you could decrease that value if you think the amp is too hot. It's probably there to compensate for the perceived boost you get by changing the cap.
You are so funny, love your videos!!
Thanks !
Is the attenuator a cross line type MV like the Ken Fischer type 3? Like a phase cancelling pot?
No, it's closer to a Type 1, but not even, cause they are not pots, and they don't ground the signal. It uses a dual gang rotary swtich, with very large resistor values, up to 4.7M, and simply inserts them into the signal path after the Pi, but before the Bias.
If you're curious about this amp, just google "Traynor-yba-1mod1-schematic", the service manual with full schematic will pop right up.
Hi! great video! question.. i have the new reissue of the YBA- 1 Redux M1550 V01 bass master, think its a 50 year anniversary amp. But i found it doesnt have that dark "tractor" grit that the old one has.. is there a way to get the new one to sound like the old one..? i have changed the tubes to 6CA7 like the old one has. i have the schematics for the old one but not the new one so i cant compare the two regarding capasitors, resistors etc.. the only thing i know about the old one is that it is wired point to point compared to the new one with a PCB. Would be thankfull for any tips on this topic.
Oh, I'm not familiar with that model, and a quick search didn't bring up a schematic for me either.
I'm honestly not that familiar with all the models to know how to make one sound like the other. I'd have to have them on my bench to poke at. I think if it were me, I would start by experimenting with tubes. 6CA7 is a step in the right direction, assuming they are the JJ's. They do have a darker more growly tone, but not the EH 6CA7, they have more luster to them, so it would be a step in the opposite direction. For preamp tubes, first 2, I might try jj ECC803S, not 83s, they also have a darker tone to them.
For the 3rd preamp, the phase inverter, not sure. I like the Tung Sol 12AX7 usually for a good overall transparency, but they are a bit fuzzy driven, the Sovtek 5751 is a fave for it's smooth fatness. I might try the JJ ECC83S there, cause it tends to be grainy which might help what you're after, or again the 803S. That's often what it comes down to for me when I'm trying to tweek and amp at first, then I move to mods from there. I keep a collection of various relatively fresh tubes for that reason.
Now that I know about this, I'll probably keep an eye out for a schematic.
@@DATT Thanks for the tips! i will for sure try out the tubes you are listing. those grainy JJ ECC83s sounds interesting. Ive been having a hard time finding the schematics for that amp but i will keep on looking.
@@tomasliljedahl9112 Yeah, it's not coming up for me either. Which is strange cause usually Traynor schems are easy to find.
Great, informative video and entertaining too!. I was just trying out one of the Two Note Captor with my YBA 1 head trying to go direct and found it doesn't work, the tone controls are rendered virtually useless. Also the volume as well, it wouldn't really change much by raising it. I have better results using an older style DI load box. Any idea why that might happen?
Well, I'm guessing the you cranked the amp, at which point the tone controls do little to tweek the tone but will subtly shape the distortion texture. Then the question is, which volume ?
@@DATT Hey, thanks for the reply. I didn't actually crank it up, maybe to 3 or so, and after that even the volume sort of doesn't go up. I was just going through channel one, no jumper or anything. But at a low volume there is really no tone shaping.
I need to retract my earlier statement and say you were spot on. The amp is so loud that even at 3 or 4 it's too loud for the Captor. I just tried it again and got a much better result at little below 2. Thanks for the feedback!
@@TrippingTheTube Yeah, the way amps of this topology work, you're pretty much max volume at like 3 or 4. Anything more just gets dirtier.
@@DATT I appreciate your videos. You're a talented guy.
What guitar is that Yamaha? Looks dope but I can’t find it anywhere
It's an RGX420S, friggen Unicorn. It's a copy of an Ibanez RG, so it plays fast, but it's made of you good wood, Alder, and better quality hardware. It's like a holy grail to me. I think I got it in the early 2000's.
@@DATT Nice!! Killer guitar man! Funny, I literally just bought an Ibanez Rg120 today on ebay for $250 shipped. Very similar guitar but mine won't have a floyd.
I noticed you had the bass at 10 after the mod, was this a personal preference, or was there a loss of bass after the mod?
Also - huge thanks for making this video. I'll be asking my local tech to do this mod, maybe with a footswitch for the regular andJCM800 mode.
Any chances you're located in Victoria or Vancouver?
There wasn't a loss in bass no. If anything the mod made the EQ more responsive in general.
It's probably personal preference. I find the low end in this amp, and a proper 800 a bit lacking.
They don't boom like modern amps, just adds warmth really, so yeah, I have a tendency to crank it.
Y do they call it reissue if it transistor board 🤔
Ah, there are no transistors in it. Well, there is one, but it controls the light.
It's all tube, and pretty well done. Just modern electrical is all board now, it'd cost 3-4x as much to build it by hand the old way.
Sounds nothing like the original 😕 no backbone mids
Ah, it's cause I'm dailing it in using the new sounds you can get out of it. You can still dail it in to sound the original way.
I have a 68 and had the mod1 they sound relatively close imo. But they run different because one is a tribute