The preamp schematic thats been circulating for decades has the wrong value output cap. Its 10uF not 1uF. At 9:35 its cap on the right side of the opamp. The key to the pre-EB sound you gotta have the Alnico pickup with extended pole pieces with each coil wound to 4K.
Thank you for the comment! You are absolutely right. Great info to share with everyone. FWIW: I just re-ran the circuit's frequency response with LTSpice to check the difference between a 10uF and 1uF capacitor. Interestingly, it looks like it makes a slight difference to the frequencies below about 30 Hz, i.e. extreme bass range. With a 1uF (per the error in the schematic), the bass is slightly lower, but the difference at ~20Hz is only ~0.1 dB, and everything below that is outside of human hearing range. Maybe that's why this mistake has remained for so long - the difference is so slight that people don't hear it as "wrong", and don't double-check. I'm pinning this comment; hopefully viewers will be aware of the correction. Thanks!
>"Alnico pickup". Well the magnet does not affect the tone, it affects the output level (and therefore the signal to noise ratio). However, the louder the sound the better our ears hear extreme lows and extreme highs. This is why alnico might be percieved as "mellow sounding", in reality it is just less loud.
@@PhuckHue2 I did not. My point was that the magnet type does not change the spectral content of the output signal, it only affects (in the linear way) the overall volume across the frequency range. If you want to imitate the ceramic magnets - make your amp louder, if you want alnico - make it less loud. Psychoacoustics work in a weird way - louder sounds are perceived as having wider frequency range.
Another proof that 95% of the tone and sound is in the pickups/electronics and not the wood or construction. I only recognize a dynamic difference between a bolt-on and a neck thru. What a great, scientific and accurate work, welldone !!!
Many thanks!! Yep - that definitely matches what I've seen from watching hundreds of YT videos about pickups, electronics, woods, etc., as well as from doing this project. Cheers!
@@steveothebassist Maybe not that much... if you put j bass pickups and electronics on a gibson thunderbird it will never sound like a jbass. I can bet money on that. It's not a wood deal but a construction deal to me.
>I only recognize a dynamic difference between a bolt-on and a neck thru. Well, are we realy able to tell the difference? ruclips.net/video/n02tImce3AE/видео.html&ab_channel=JimLill
@@vince8081 Pickup placement and playing position are just as important, too. You can't place J-Bass pickups in a Thunderbird in the same positions that they'd be on a Jazz Bass without routing for new cavities. Then the moment you put it on your lap or a strap, you'll play it differently than you would a Jazz Bass because the instrument wears completely different on your body. If you could somehow equalize all these things, I have a feeling they'd be more similar than different. While different body shapes don't change your tone, they change how you interact with the instrument and how you play the instrument, so they do change your output sound way more than you can imagine. It's way more important than whether the neck is glued or bolted on. Think about it. If you could take a Fender neck and glue it in the pocket of a P-Bass body instead of using four screws, do you really think it'd sound that different?
I'm used to say that in a bass with the same strings 99% of the sound is made by that pickup model in that position, all the rest (body wood, fingerboard wood, bridge, nut...) are legends only, and your video proved it...
I absolutely love these kinda videos! Being a stingray player, “mostly” and a stingray being my favorite tone, I highly respect these! I’d love to be this smart and be able to build this kinda stuff!!
I have a P parts bass that is set up as a 'ray. I've used it for stingray preamp testing for many years. A nice change I made was using a stingray style bridge. It made it significantly heavier, but does seem to get even closer to the stingray tone. As a tech, I've worked on several first gen stingrays in the last few years, and FWIW, the circuit that you showed that has been online for decades has some minor inaccuracies. The output cap should be 10uF. However this would only roll off audible amounts of bass if you were plugged into a very low z input. The other slight differences would not make much of a difference really, but if you are interested I have posted the schematic on my website. The old log taper pots from the 70's will have a very different taper from modern "audio" taper pots. With the controls set in the middle, there will likely be an audible difference. Also, electronics parts from the 70's have a much wider tolerance than even cheap modern parts, especially caps and pots. Thanks for an interesting video!
I was honestly shocked how close the parallel passive J pickups in the "music man" spot sounded to the actual Stingray. I love my EB 'Ray but I'm not a huge fan of passive pickups, so this gave me some ideas. Thanks for posting! Very cool stuff.
I had a similar experience to this, actually! I really wanted a Rickenbacker bass but didn’t have the money, so I got a Seymour Duncan SRB-1 bridge pickup and put it into a Squier Bronco. After around 12 hours of working on it (making a custom control plate, chiseling out the cavity, etc.) it turned out really well and sounds surprisingly similar to an actual Rick. Saved me thousands of dollars for a functionally similar sound (perhaps even better, in my opinion).
VERY cool video! I've always wanted that Stingray sound but did not want to pay that Music Man price to get it. I've looked for MM kits and body blanks, but no luck so far. THIS is the perfect solution... thanks!
Check out Lowend Lobster channel because he did about 5 Sterling SUB Stingrays with different pick ups and preamps and man they get really sound good and even better than a lot of actual Ernie Ball Stingrays I've been able to try. I think the total average overall was maybe $500 including bass, pick up, and preamp. One thing is he only did the black body SUBS but I've found the older wood stained SUB basses feel and sound better when it comes to the stock bass and they are all the same price.
I don't currently have a Stingray so these kinds of comparisons are useful to me, passive vs active, series vs parallel are important distinctions as well as pickup placement, subjects often poorly-understood amongst bassists. Stingrays are one of Leo's greatest achievements so I have to have one!
You can definitely hear the change. They are close but different. I heard the change but mixed the tone/guitar up. I thought the Stingray was the P and Vice versus. The Stingray definitely has a darker tone IMHO !
I installed the MojoTone in a Ray 34 Silverburst with the stock pickup to replace the stock 3-band and it sounds the closest I've ever come to my old and missed '77 Stingray. Sounds amazing.
Very cool! I would love to hear the difference between a single J in the Middle of the MM position, to hear what the humbucking does. FYI a Wal uses 26mm spacing and an MM 23mm, This affects the phase cancellation
I own a pre EB early 80s StingRay and I couldn't tell the difference in the sound on my computers speakers. Also, the amp that is being used in the demo is certainly responsible for the type of sound you want to acheive. At least half of the sound is as attributable to the amp as it is the instrument itself. I also own both American Fenders and Mexican Player Fenders including both Precision and Jazz bases and I can't decern the difference between the American and Mexican Player series except for the high price points on the American ones. I always loved my pre-EB StingRay and it's remained my go-to bass over all these years. I've been playing bass since 1963.The StingRay just has the right feel. I love the neck on that bass, it's overall look and the simplicity of it's design. I'm not into bells and whistles when it comes to basses. I also own a Rickenbacker 4003, which has an entirely different feel and look to it. It also has sustain for miles due to its neck-thru design. However, the Rickenbacker has always been a little quirky when it comes to set up and adjustments. Lastly, aside from it's light weight, which is a plus and the fact that Paul McCartney used the Hoffner violin bass quite extensively, I personally don't like them.
Fascinating video I'll probably watch a few times. Much appreciated for all your work on this, I'm sure it was a lot of hard work! Don't see it mentioned here, I do think the Joe Dart signature is a ceramic, too.
The Squier seems to have just a tiny bit more low end, but barely enough to notice or matter and could probably be achieved with a post EQ on the OG Stingray. I like the external preamp idea which is something I've been toying around with doing for my basses.
Ha, you're absolutely right. That's funny - I guess if you take a P-bass, and replace the pickup with an MM pickup in the "Stingray" position, it looks very similar to a Kiloton! Thanks!!
Your observation about the positions of the mm pickup coils and the j bridge bear out, and in an interesting way that’s actually quite usable; back during quarantine I made a warmoth suped-up fretless with a p and bartolini mm, and wired a coil splitter to select between both coils (mm), neck coils (roughly the standard j position), and bridge coils (roughly the 70’s j position). Even though it’s a passive bass the mm is QUITE close to sounding right, and I also get bonus jazz bass tones (without hum). So I have Jaco, Pino, and (insert fretless precision player here) all in one bass!
I've modded my cheap basswood Stingray clone EKO MM300 from a passive VVT config to a 2-band pre-EB. And wow, it is a beast now. Yes, it had that special "bite" before the mod, but that plenty of tone shaping options on fingertips with 2-band is killer.
You can put a MM style scratchplate on a P bass body, with controls mounted on a separate part of the original scratchplate suitably rounded off at the top. I've done it, looks pretty cool 😊 Would definitely work on this mod
I've done this very thing. I put a Stingray pickup in my red Squire P-Bass, but wired it passive like a P-Bass. I've learned I'll probably need to build the preamp as in passive mode it's not as much output as a P Bass. But I also put in a second pickup, a Fralin split '51 and a Telecaster style three way switch to switch between the pickups. My challenge now is to build in the preamp but have it only on when the Stingray is selected.
Awesome, your bass sounds great! Good luck with the preamp - yeah, that might be a bit of a challenge to have the preamp only affect the Stingray pickup. I guess you could wire up the Stingray pickup + preamp "upstream" of a pickup selector switch, but you'd have to still have separate passive controls for the P pickup - that's getting to be a lot of knobs. I actually just finished building the Stingray preamp into a separate stompbox, so that I didn't have to worry about fitting it into the bass itself. If you don't mind manually switching the pedal on/off whenever you use the Stingray pickup, this might work for you as a solution. If you'd rather not build it yourself, Master Effects makes a pedal called the Manta Ray that is basically a Stingray preamp in a stompbox. The 2-band version that I checked out isn't a 100% match for the "standard" Stingray preamp, but it's very close. Good luck!
@@mikedeeez Yeah, it can be solved but that means too many knobs. I'm going to start by making the MM pickup switchable to series, maybe that will bring it to the level of the other pickup. What chip did you use on the preamp? I assume the LM4250, I know they've been discontinued so I had a hell of a time tracking one down that didn't look to be a repackage of something close. I'll build the circuit on a breadboard first to see if I like it, and work out passive/active issue.
Sure thing, here are measurements from the 1983 Stingray. All of the measurements are made from the middle of the 12th fret. From 12th fret to neck-side edge of pickup: 321 mm = 12-41/64 inches From 12th fret to centerline of neck coil: 333 mm = 13-7/64 inches From 12th fret to centerline of bridge coil: 357 mm = 14-4/64 inches From 12th fret to bridge-side edge of pickup: 370 mm = 14-36/64 inches I actually would not recommend measuring from the bridge saddles, because these are adjustable. The measurements on one bass might be at least several mm different from another bass. Measuring from the 12th fret ensures that it's a consistent distance. Cheers!
I'm planning on doing something very similar with a JB body or a pb body made by warmoth with mm pick up routes and nordstran pups and a Eastman mm pre amp my only concern is the pickup location I'm just going to hope it gets me in the ballpark any advice would be helpful and your video is really informative
I'm wondering how close to the original would it sound if you put the MEC preamp and pickups in Warwick Thumb's positions to any normal bass. People say that Warwick sound different because of the wood density etc., but no one really tried to test this theory with building a bass with similar electronics.
Are you building a bass with both MM and P pickups in their right positions? Would be cool to see how it would sound in both passive and active electronics
the bass with the 2 dimarzios-jazz-single-coils sounds very close. the squier with the humbucker sounds almost the same like the music-man. but a tiny bit more intense. guess the humbucker of the music-man lost a little bit of the magnetic field. for my personal taste I would stay with the to single-coils. they have the most character for me and you have more possible sounds. great project man.
Did you use a instrument cable between the passive pickups and eq circuit, or was connected via short wire? The capacitance of the cable of several feet can form a filter with the pickup to shave off some highs.
Thanks!! Totally agree. Paul Denman is a master of tasteful basslines. The bassline basically carries a lot of Sade songs, and his playing is rock solid. Your Love is King, Smooth Operator, Sweetest Taboo - all great bass work. And yes, playing live he got a few more opportunities to show off a bit. Cheers
Jon, I'm glad U mentioned Paul Denman. His tone is the quintessential Stingray bass sound at least for my ears. Just solid, no-nonsense playing with that Pre-Ernie Stingray. IMHO, EBMM has taken the Stingray too far away from the original vibe and feel of the Leo Fender/Tom Walker/Forrest White models. Again, thank you for your post.
Sounds awesome! Sure thing, here are measurements from the 1983 Stingray. All of the measurements are made from the middle of the 12th fret. From 12th fret to neck-side edge of pickup: 321 mm = 12-41/64 inches From 12th fret to centerline of neck coil: 333 mm = 13-7/64 inches From 12th fret to centerline of bridge coil: 357 mm = 14-4/64 inches From 12th fret to bridge-side edge of pickup: 370 mm = 14-36/64 inches I actually would not recommend measuring from the bridge, because the bridge saddles are adjustable. The measurements on one bass might be several mm different from another bass. Measuring from the 12th fret ensures that it's a consistent distance. Cheers!
Good question, thanks! I wanted to make sure that the output of the pickups went straight to the Stingray preamp, without anything (pots or caps) added. These would change the impedance of the circuit and hence might impact the tone. This way, it's an apples-to-apples comparison with the actual Stingray. Actually, after this video, I added the P pickup back in to the Squier. I then added separate passive stacked volume/tone controls for the Stingray pickup and the P pickup, PLUS a switch to bypass everything just like I originally had in this video. With the vol/tone , it does make a slight difference vs. vol/tone in the circuit but at 100%. It's not a huge difference, but it's very slightly clearer with everything bypassed, which makes sense. i.e. The passive controls do have a very slight muffling effect, even when they're both on "full".
That's should be a Stingray standard sound, I've played way too many that don't sound like this. Lowend Lobster did a really good Sterling SUB series where he changed pick ups and preamps in a few SUBS and they turned out really nice sounding
@@mikedeeez after seeing his videos I was really itching for one of those subs to convert it but I ran across an old OLP Stingray for a hundred bucks, and even though it's passive it's still has that Stingray growl. Eventually I'll get an active one whether it's the sub or the Sterling
I agree, to me the "standard" preamp was the closest sounding one. I wouldn't notice it if you put it back to back. how about the modern stingray 3 band preamp, where can you get clones of those?
Thanks!! Yes, I have always been surprised that several companies sell a clone of the 2-band Stingray preamp (or at least something CLOSE to the original 2-band circuit), but the only company I have ever seen that offers the 3-band version is the Master Effects Manta Ray. It comes in 2-band and 3-band versions, and it's in a PEDAL format, not an on-board format. I used to own the 2-band version - I traced out the circuit, and it was very close to the original preamp schematic, but included a couple of common "mods". I've never had a chance to try the 3-band version, so I don't know how close it is to the actual Stingray circuit, but it might be an accurate clone. Actually, after this video, I built the original 2-band Stingray preamp AND the 3-band Stingray preamp into separate pedals myself. That way, I could play the Squier straight into the either one, and compare the tones. I'll try to make a video of it at some point. I've been tied up over the last ~year with work and a house move, but hopefully I'll have more time in the future. Thanks!
Good question - it's a P-bass pickguard from Warmoth, but I ordered it WITHOUT any pickup cuts. Then I cut it myself with a Dremel to fit the Stingray pickup.
Great video!! I have a StingRay Erniball from 1992, but a luthier ruined the pickup. Is the Nordstrand mm4.2 pickup, the one that would be closest to the original sound? Do yo have the alnico III or alnico V pickup?
I just subscribed to this channel. I have a music man style bass missing the pickup. However I have a P bass split coil, that I want to install, however they don't sell pickguards routed out for p bass pickups.
Thanks! A Stingray with a P pickup in the regular "Stingray" position would be really cool. That reminds me of one of the Stingray prototypes that Leo Fender made, except they mounted it in a "reverse P" arrangement (you can see/hear it here: ruclips.net/video/VaT75Irw5LU/видео.html). If you contact a company that makes replacement Stingray pickguards, like www.wdmusic.com or www.thepickguardshop.com/, I bet that at least one of them would be willing to just sell you a Stingray pickguard with no pickup route. Then you could take it to a guitar shop; they should be able to do the P pickup routing in exactly the location where you want it. If you have a router or a Dremel, then you could also buy a P pickup routing template, and do it yourself. Actually, the pickguard company might be willing to do the P pickup routing themselves as a custom option too, which might be even easier. Whatever your decide, good luck! If you ever make a video of it, let me know, I'd love to hear it!
As far as the obvious idiosyncracies are concerned, much is in the pickup and preamp. But how about flatwounds and neutral eq settings (which is not 50%/50% but somewhere around 30%/30%) ?
Great job Mike! I like your videos. Would you like to share with us the exact position of the pickup? For example, measured from the 12th fret to the beginning of the pickup housing, or to the middle. Keep up the good work. Best regards!
Many thanks!! Good question - absolutely, here are measurements from the 1983 Stingray. All of the measurements are made from the middle of the 12th fret. From 12th fret to neck-side edge of pickup: 321 mm = 12-41/64 inches From 12th fret to centerline of neck coil: 333 mm = 13-7/64 inches From 12th fret to centerline of bridge coil: 357 mm = 14-4/64 inches From 12th fret to bridge-side edge of pickup: 370 mm = 14-36/64 inches Cheers!
Man, what you did is awesome! I have a question and i apologize if what i am about to say is dumb. So i have a harley benton ray with seymour duncan ceramic pickups and it sounds nice. However it is passive bass. Is it possible to build this preamp and put it in an external housing and connect bass to it? would i get the same result or is this stupid?
Pickup placement is key;The tone would've sounded MUCH closer if the pickup in the Squire were moved closer to the Neck.Ever see an Aria Super Bass?THAT thing has the MM style?pickup almost in the middle position!And THOSE basses sound Super Sweet!I had one,but it was too heavy,the pickup was too weak(no active electronics),and the neck was too narrow at the joint area.
Great video! In your opinion what pickup and preamp combination would you think would capture the modern stingray sound? I know everyone loves the pre EBMM sound but there’s something about the new modern sound that I love. Any suggestions would be great!
Thanks!! Absolutely; there are tons of fans of both the "vintage" and "modern" Stingray sounds. The "modern" sound can be great too. My understanding is that the main differences between Pre-EB and the EB sounds are 1) the pickup changed from alnico V to ceramic, and 2) the preamp changed to the 3-band EQ version. You can get ceramic Stingray pickup replacements. Seymour Duncan makes one. I believe it's the SMB-4D, but double-check. Surprisingly, I don't think any companies make a "clone" of the 3-band Stingray EQ. I have heard that the John East MMSR 3-band EQ is a great replacement, but they say that the design is actually more similar to the pre-EB 2-band EQ (but with a 3rd band added). You could also check on eBay or Reverb for someone selling an actual Stingray 3-band preamp used. They come up for sale sometimes. Thinking outside the box - If you change your bass to passive, you could also use a Master Effects Manta Ray 3-band, which I believe is much closer to the authentic Stingray 3EQ. It's just in a pedal format (which is actually kind of nice). * NOTE - The newest Stingray Special basses actually now have a *neodymium* pickup, which also apparently sounds a bit different. Unfortunately, I can't find any company that makes replacement Stingray neodymium pickups yet. Hopefully they will be available a few years in the future. It would be nice to have the option. Good luck!
It is also important to mention that EMG MM-HZ pickup has exactly the same resistance and inductance as the MM pickups, with the only differences being that it ises ceramic-steel magnet (instead of alnico) so it has slighly higher output, and it has a rail instead of metal pole pieces, but that shall not really affect the tone much, i believe.
Hi - according to the LM4250C datasheet, no, 0°C is the minimum temperature, so you'd need to keep it above 0°C. However, the regular LM4250 is rated down to -55°C.
@@mikedeeez thank you for reply ,i am a newbie ,learning from youtube ,your videos helps me a lot , i am planing to build busking bass amp with cheap amp board ,50w to 100w ,24 v battery ,do i need to solder resistor on amp jack pot ,and how much current do i need for battery ,many many thanks ,
@@sekretlowrider4046 Sounds awesome! Unfortunately, I'm afraid I don't have experience with building amps. I wish I could help you out! Maybe I'll get a chance to learn about amps someday though. Best of luck with the project!!
Good question - it's a P-bass pickguard from Warmoth, but I ordered it WITHOUT any pickup cuts. Then I cut it myself with a Dremel to fit the Stingray pickup. Cheers
Thanks!! Same here, I love P bodies. Good question - it's a P-bass pickguard from Warmoth, but I ordered it WITHOUT any pickup cuts. Then I cut it myself with a Dremel to fit the Stingray pickup. Good luck!!
Yo tengo un EB y si noto la diferencia, sobretodo en la profundidad del tono. Lo primero que notas al tocar un EB incluso apagado es que se oye y se siente la profundidad.... Pero por la diferencia en dinero un hack así vale la pena.
Thanks!! My pleasure. I have not tried the OBP3 myself, but I saw LowEndLobster's video where he replaced the preamp in a Ray4 with an OBP3. I'd say it sounded very close to a 3-band Stingray preamp. I tried to look up the exact frequencies of the bass/mid/treble controls, and it looks like the standard Stingray 3-band EQ's frequencies are about 40 Hz / 500 Hz / 12 kHz (according to EB/Music Man). By comparison, the OBP3's frequencies are listed as 40 Hz / 400 Hz or 800 Hz selectable / 6.5 kHz. So the controls will sound a little different from a standard Stingray 3EQ preamp, just because they are boosting/cutting different frequencies. Still, even if the frequencies are a little different, it still sounded pretty "Stingray-like" to me, when used with a Stingray-style pickup, at the right pickup location. And a lot of people say that they really like them in Stingrays. (Also, it's a 3-band EQ, so it would be a bit different from the earlier pre-EB 2-band Stingray preamp.) Cheers!
@@mikedeeez Thanks for your response my friend. I watch all the Lobster mods and are really great! I have an Sterling Ray 5 (Sub) and think that a new alnico pickup with the OBP3 will be a good choice to upgrade my bass. Please mantain the good work in your channel. Salutations from Brazil !
Ok, hear me out. I think your quest for the vintage Stingray would benefit from some flatwounds. The original strings that came with the pre Ernie Ball basses we're GHS Precision flats. Bernard Edwards mentioned in an interview once he never changed the factory strings.
Thanks!! I should add here that I did string it with flatwounds (separately from this video), and yes, it's awesome. I agree it's essential for the correct Bernard Edwards tone; roundwounds really cannot sound the same. I often use TI Jazz flats, but I should try the GHS Precision Flats for the most accurate Bernard Edwards sound. Many thanks for the recommendation!
Wanting to throw a music man pup into my pawnshop bass, I scoped used mm pups on reverb a couple days, and then they give me this vid. Are they really scoping my browsing choices for my yt feed?
@@mikedeeez with ai and algorithms, they can scan everything and categorize it instantly. Voice, concepts, location, and every other thing you've watched and whether your face was actually pointed at the screen camera while each commercial played.
@@mikedeeez I'm wanting to improve my pawnshop bass for about the same budget I paid for it. Saw fifty different bass humbucker available. Do I want Gibson EB1 style of MM? Preamp needed or go w stereo outputs? I have crossover hartke ha5000 amp and different range speakers.
This is really a cool experiment, that I would love to try! Do you have the original specs for the pickup distancing and heights? Or a link to it perhaps? I'd like to try making this from scratch, not sure what body type I want, but it looks sick on the P-bass, even the poo-poo brown colour looksgood! I googled but it kept sending me to the MM website,which other than PR videos, I couldn't find anything. Thanks!
In the side by side challenge, the Squer sounded much better. Maybe it was the way it was EQ'd or NÒT EQ'd that the Music Man sounded thin & nasally like a wounded duck with almost no bottom end. But the Squier sounded fuller and smoother, something that could support other instruments in a band setting.
It’s a magnetic pickup. The wood does not matter. It all depends on the pickup, pickup location, pickup height, scale length, type of strings and electronics. The only the wood will affect is the sustain. Softer wood will damp the vibration, harder wood will let the vibrations ring longer.
@@mikedeeez That's how I would do it, since bridge size and string length vary. re tone matching, I think pickup type and position are the biggest factors. I don't think active vs. passive or onboard EQ preamp vs. external amp matter very much. I have a 1996 EBMM Sterling with 3EQ and an OLP (passive Stingray copy). I can get the OLP to sound virtually identical to the Sterling by tweaking the bass amp's EQ. I don't think it matters where the EQ settings come from (preamp vs. bass amp). What do you say?
Hi - I do answer questions when I can; we've been moving and work has been very busy, so I'm afraid I haven't had much free time. But feel free to ask; happy to see if it's something I can help with.
@@mikedeeez I want to shunt my existing p-pickup a little towards the neck so I can have the best of both worlds in one bass (with a custom stomp-box for an approximation of the SR preamp) Do you know if the P-pickup will sound similar enough slightly towards the neck?
@@thejoetandy Hi Joe, yep, if you're just trying to fit the Stingray pickup and the P pickup in one bass, then you only need to shift the P pickup a little bit. Actually, after I made this video, I actually did put the P pickup back in the bass, right next to the SR pickup. I just checked, and the new position is less than 1/4" farther toward the neck, compared to the original position. As far as I can tell, the difference to the tone is pretty minimal. Maybe if I had "before" and "after" sounds, and played one immediately after the other, I MIGHT be able to tell. For a "reality check": Imagine the difference between the sound of a P pickup and a J neck pickup, on the treble strings (D and G). The P and J are definitely not the same, but they do have a "similar" sound. i.e. Sometimes a J neck pickup can "pass" as a P pickup. The difference between those locations is about 1.25". So - if you're only moving it less than 1/4", that's way less of a difference than even a P pickup and J neck pickup. Roughly speaking, the tone should sound a TINY bit more like a J neck pickup, but it probably won't be a big change. Just my best guess, but good luck!!
Right! I know - I have to say I was also suspicious about the bass. So I completely took it apart, and confirmed that indeed, the neck pocket stamp and potentiometer codes are all dated 1983. And all of the other things like headstock decal and preamp board match for 1983. I was pleasantly surprised. To be fair, on close inspection, there actually are finish cracks, dings, that green crud that forms on fret edges, and other signs of age/wear. But still, someone out there did take remarkably good care of this bass for many years. I feel lucky to have had the chance to try such a well-preserved example.
The preamp schematic thats been circulating for decades has the wrong value output cap. Its 10uF not 1uF. At 9:35 its cap on the right side of the opamp. The key to the pre-EB sound you gotta have the Alnico pickup with extended pole pieces with each coil wound to 4K.
Thank you for the comment! You are absolutely right. Great info to share with everyone.
FWIW: I just re-ran the circuit's frequency response with LTSpice to check the difference between a 10uF and 1uF capacitor. Interestingly, it looks like it makes a slight difference to the frequencies below about 30 Hz, i.e. extreme bass range. With a 1uF (per the error in the schematic), the bass is slightly lower, but the difference at ~20Hz is only ~0.1 dB, and everything below that is outside of human hearing range. Maybe that's why this mistake has remained for so long - the difference is so slight that people don't hear it as "wrong", and don't double-check.
I'm pinning this comment; hopefully viewers will be aware of the correction. Thanks!
>"Alnico pickup".
Well the magnet does not affect the tone, it affects the output level (and therefore the signal to noise ratio). However, the louder the sound the better our ears hear extreme lows and extreme highs. This is why alnico might be percieved as "mellow sounding", in reality it is just less loud.
@@Eugensson You made a contradictory statement. It doesn't affect the tone but the magnet strength makes it sound more mellow. So I was right
@@PhuckHue2 I did not. My point was that the magnet type does not change the spectral content of the output signal, it only affects (in the linear way) the overall volume across the frequency range.
If you want to imitate the ceramic magnets - make your amp louder, if you want alnico - make it less loud.
Psychoacoustics work in a weird way - louder sounds are perceived as having wider frequency range.
@@Eugensson Wrong
Another proof that 95% of the tone and sound is in the pickups/electronics and not the wood or construction. I only recognize a dynamic difference between a bolt-on and a neck thru. What a great, scientific and accurate work, welldone !!!
Many thanks!!
Yep - that definitely matches what I've seen from watching hundreds of YT videos about pickups, electronics, woods, etc., as well as from doing this project.
Cheers!
95%, more like 99.9%.
@@steveothebassist Maybe not that much... if you put j bass pickups and electronics on a gibson thunderbird it will never sound like a jbass. I can bet money on that. It's not a wood deal but a construction deal to me.
>I only recognize a dynamic difference between a bolt-on and a neck thru.
Well, are we realy able to tell the difference? ruclips.net/video/n02tImce3AE/видео.html&ab_channel=JimLill
@@vince8081 Pickup placement and playing position are just as important, too. You can't place J-Bass pickups in a Thunderbird in the same positions that they'd be on a Jazz Bass without routing for new cavities. Then the moment you put it on your lap or a strap, you'll play it differently than you would a Jazz Bass because the instrument wears completely different on your body. If you could somehow equalize all these things, I have a feeling they'd be more similar than different. While different body shapes don't change your tone, they change how you interact with the instrument and how you play the instrument, so they do change your output sound way more than you can imagine. It's way more important than whether the neck is glued or bolted on. Think about it. If you could take a Fender neck and glue it in the pocket of a P-Bass body instead of using four screws, do you really think it'd sound that different?
I didn't think that the P-Bass would look that good with a MM pickup but it really does! I'm definitely going to do a mod like this!
Thanks!! Good luck!
Looks just like the G&L kiloton
Wish you had a video on building that preamp. That’s awesome!
Something about the E string on the Stingray was different than the other basses. Great video!
A very underrated channel. Very, very close.
Thanks!
I'm used to say that in a bass with the same strings 99% of the sound is made by that pickup model in that position, all the rest (body wood, fingerboard wood, bridge, nut...) are legends only, and your video proved it...
I absolutely love these kinda videos! Being a stingray player, “mostly” and a stingray being my favorite tone, I highly respect these! I’d love to be this smart and be able to build this kinda stuff!!
I have a P parts bass that is set up as a 'ray. I've used it for stingray preamp testing for many years. A nice change I made was using a stingray style bridge. It made it significantly heavier, but does seem to get even closer to the stingray tone.
As a tech, I've worked on several first gen stingrays in the last few years, and FWIW, the circuit that you showed that has been online for decades has some minor inaccuracies. The output cap should be 10uF. However this would only roll off audible amounts of bass if you were plugged into a very low z input. The other slight differences would not make much of a difference really, but if you are interested I have posted the schematic on my website. The old log taper pots from the 70's will have a very different taper from modern "audio" taper pots. With the controls set in the middle, there will likely be an audible difference. Also, electronics parts from the 70's have a much wider tolerance than even cheap modern parts, especially caps and pots. Thanks for an interesting video!
I was honestly shocked how close the parallel passive J pickups in the "music man" spot sounded to the actual Stingray. I love my EB 'Ray but I'm not a huge fan of passive pickups, so this gave me some ideas.
Thanks for posting! Very cool stuff.
Bro your channel is so underrated, these vids are amazing!
Many thanks!
Man this is truly amazing. So much curiosity, so much passion for sound. Thank you very very much.
Very kind of you, thanks!! 🙏 Absolutely, my pleasure.
I can't begin to articulate how perfect this is. Thankyou so much
Thanks!!
What a fantastic video. Thanks for takign the trouble to put this together. That was a lot of work. Fascinating stuff.
Many thanks!!
12:09 Konichiwa Mike. I love Donny Benet too. Awesome to hear you playing his stuff. Great playing
Many thanks!! Yep, Donny's playing (and songs) are terrific.
I had a similar experience to this, actually!
I really wanted a Rickenbacker bass but didn’t have the money, so I got a Seymour Duncan SRB-1 bridge pickup and put it into a Squier Bronco.
After around 12 hours of working on it (making a custom control plate, chiseling out the cavity, etc.) it turned out really well and sounds surprisingly similar to an actual Rick. Saved me thousands of dollars for a functionally similar sound (perhaps even better, in my opinion).
That's a really cool idea. I guess that the pickup on a bronco is roughly in the same spot as a Ric bridge pickup?
VERY cool video! I've always wanted that Stingray sound but did not want to pay that Music Man price to get it. I've looked for MM kits and body blanks, but no luck so far. THIS is the perfect solution... thanks!
Check out Lowend Lobster channel because he did about 5 Sterling SUB Stingrays with different pick ups and preamps and man they get really sound good and even better than a lot of actual Ernie Ball Stingrays I've been able to try. I think the total average overall was maybe $500 including bass, pick up, and preamp. One thing is he only did the black body SUBS but I've found the older wood stained SUB basses feel and sound better when it comes to the stock bass and they are all the same price.
I don't currently have a Stingray so these kinds of comparisons are useful to me, passive vs active, series vs parallel are important distinctions as well as pickup placement, subjects often poorly-understood amongst bassists. Stingrays are one of Leo's greatest achievements so I have to have one!
Absolutely awesome work, thank you, that was a great watch and listen 👍🏻
Many thanks!!
How on earth do you not have huge amounts more subscribers? Very interesting!
Thanks!!
You can definitely hear the change. They are close but different. I heard the change but mixed the tone/guitar up. I thought the Stingray was the P and Vice versus. The Stingray definitely has a darker tone IMHO !
I heard a slightly darker tone with the Stingray also. It sounded more punchy, but the P bass was real close.
That stingray is a beautiful guitar.
Beside the sound, this "MMpickuped" SquieRay is simply beautiful! 😍
I installed the MojoTone in a Ray 34 Silverburst with the stock pickup to replace the stock 3-band and it sounds the closest I've ever come to my old and missed '77 Stingray. Sounds amazing.
Nice!!
Very cool! I would love to hear the difference between a single J in the Middle of the MM position, to hear what the humbucking does. FYI a Wal uses 26mm spacing and an MM 23mm, This affects the phase cancellation
Very cool! You sound like a radio DJ by the way... Thanks for sharing!
Many thanks!! Cheers
I own a pre EB early 80s StingRay and I couldn't tell the difference in the sound on my computers speakers. Also, the amp that is being used in the demo is certainly responsible for the type of sound you want to acheive. At least half of the sound is as attributable to the amp as it is the instrument itself. I also own both American Fenders and Mexican Player Fenders including both Precision and Jazz bases and I can't decern the difference between the American and Mexican Player series except for the high price points on the American ones. I always loved my pre-EB StingRay and it's remained my go-to bass over all these years. I've been playing bass since 1963.The StingRay just has the right feel. I love the neck on that bass, it's overall look and the simplicity of it's design. I'm not into bells and whistles when it comes to basses. I also own a Rickenbacker 4003, which has an entirely different feel and look to it. It also has sustain for miles due to its neck-thru design. However, the Rickenbacker has always been a little quirky when it comes to set up and adjustments. Lastly, aside from it's light weight, which is a plus and the fact that Paul McCartney used the Hoffner violin bass quite extensively, I personally don't like them.
Fascinating video I'll probably watch a few times. Much appreciated for all your work on this, I'm sure it was a lot of hard work! Don't see it mentioned here, I do think the Joe Dart signature is a ceramic, too.
Oh, interesting. Thanks!!
The Squier seems to have just a tiny bit more low end, but barely enough to notice or matter and could probably be achieved with a post EQ on the OG Stingray. I like the external preamp idea which is something I've been toying around with doing for my basses.
This really reminds me the G&L Kiloton (a passive version of the L-1500)
Ha, you're absolutely right. That's funny - I guess if you take a P-bass, and replace the pickup with an MM pickup in the "Stingray" position, it looks very similar to a Kiloton!
Thanks!!
Your observation about the positions of the mm pickup coils and the j bridge bear out, and in an interesting way that’s actually quite usable; back during quarantine I made a warmoth suped-up fretless with a p and bartolini mm, and wired a coil splitter to select between both coils (mm), neck coils (roughly the standard j position), and bridge coils (roughly the 70’s j position). Even though it’s a passive bass the mm is QUITE close to sounding right, and I also get bonus jazz bass tones (without hum). So I have Jaco, Pino, and (insert fretless precision player here) all in one bass!
Nice - that sounds awesome!! Super cool 👌
The only thing i dont believe is that that mint bass is pre-anything :)
Really cool vid. Well done!
I've modded my cheap basswood Stingray clone EKO MM300 from a passive VVT config to a 2-band pre-EB. And wow, it is a beast now. Yes, it had that special "bite" before the mod, but that plenty of tone shaping options on fingertips with 2-band is killer.
Nice!! Sounds awesome, congrats on turning it into a sweet bass!
You can put a MM style scratchplate on a P bass body, with controls mounted on a separate part of the original scratchplate suitably rounded off at the top. I've done it, looks pretty cool 😊 Would definitely work on this mod
Oh, nice!! That sounds awesome - definitely would give it a cool unique look. Thanks!!
I've done this very thing. I put a Stingray pickup in my red Squire P-Bass, but wired it passive like a P-Bass. I've learned I'll probably need to build the preamp as in passive mode it's not as much output as a P Bass. But I also put in a second pickup, a Fralin split '51 and a Telecaster style three way switch to switch between the pickups. My challenge now is to build in the preamp but have it only on when the Stingray is selected.
Awesome, your bass sounds great! Good luck with the preamp - yeah, that might be a bit of a challenge to have the preamp only affect the Stingray pickup. I guess you could wire up the Stingray pickup + preamp "upstream" of a pickup selector switch, but you'd have to still have separate passive controls for the P pickup - that's getting to be a lot of knobs.
I actually just finished building the Stingray preamp into a separate stompbox, so that I didn't have to worry about fitting it into the bass itself. If you don't mind manually switching the pedal on/off whenever you use the Stingray pickup, this might work for you as a solution. If you'd rather not build it yourself, Master Effects makes a pedal called the Manta Ray that is basically a Stingray preamp in a stompbox. The 2-band version that I checked out isn't a 100% match for the "standard" Stingray preamp, but it's very close.
Good luck!
@@mikedeeez Yeah, it can be solved but that means too many knobs. I'm going to start by making the MM pickup switchable to series, maybe that will bring it to the level of the other pickup. What chip did you use on the preamp? I assume the LM4250, I know they've been discontinued so I had a hell of a time tracking one down that didn't look to be a repackage of something close. I'll build the circuit on a breadboard first to see if I like it, and work out passive/active issue.
Hello, could you write what is the real distance between the bridge saddles to MM pickup and, the MM pickup to 12th fret , shown at 18:16 ?
Sure thing, here are measurements from the 1983 Stingray. All of the measurements are made from the middle of the 12th fret.
From 12th fret to neck-side edge of pickup: 321 mm = 12-41/64 inches
From 12th fret to centerline of neck coil: 333 mm = 13-7/64 inches
From 12th fret to centerline of bridge coil: 357 mm = 14-4/64 inches
From 12th fret to bridge-side edge of pickup: 370 mm = 14-36/64 inches
I actually would not recommend measuring from the bridge saddles, because these are adjustable. The measurements on one bass might be at least several mm different from another bass. Measuring from the 12th fret ensures that it's a consistent distance.
Cheers!
I'm planning on doing something very similar with a JB body or a pb body made by warmoth with mm pick up routes and nordstran pups and a Eastman mm pre amp my only concern is the pickup location I'm just going to hope it gets me in the ballpark any advice would be helpful and your video is really informative
I'm wondering how close to the original would it sound if you put the MEC preamp and pickups in Warwick Thumb's positions to any normal bass. People say that Warwick sound different because of the wood density etc., but no one really tried to test this theory with building a bass with similar electronics.
Are you building a bass with both MM and P pickups in their right positions? Would be cool to see how it would sound in both passive and active electronics
I can’t tell the difference. Kudos.
The squatter had a little bit more bottom on the e string.
the bass with the 2 dimarzios-jazz-single-coils sounds very close. the squier with the humbucker sounds almost the same like the music-man. but a tiny bit more intense. guess the humbucker of the music-man lost a little bit of the magnetic field. for my personal taste I would stay with the to single-coils. they have the most character for me and you have more possible sounds. great project man.
This is such a sick video
Did you use a instrument cable between the passive pickups and eq circuit, or was connected via short wire? The capacitance of the cable of several feet can form a filter with the pickup to shave off some highs.
It's all in the hands!!
Great video. Thank you!
You should check out Paul Denman. His work with Sade is probably the fattest, juiciest stingray tone recorded. Their live recordings are superb.
Thanks!! Totally agree. Paul Denman is a master of tasteful basslines. The bassline basically carries a lot of Sade songs, and his playing is rock solid. Your Love is King, Smooth Operator, Sweetest Taboo - all great bass work. And yes, playing live he got a few more opportunities to show off a bit.
Cheers
Jon, I'm glad U mentioned Paul Denman. His tone is the quintessential Stingray bass sound at least for my ears. Just solid, no-nonsense playing with that Pre-Ernie Stingray. IMHO, EBMM has taken the Stingray too far away from the original vibe and feel of the Leo Fender/Tom Walker/Forrest White models. Again, thank you for your post.
Did you document the distance from the pickup to the bridge? Thinking about doing this with a jazz bass!
Sounds awesome! Sure thing, here are measurements from the 1983 Stingray. All of the measurements are made from the middle of the 12th fret.
From 12th fret to neck-side edge of pickup: 321 mm = 12-41/64 inches
From 12th fret to centerline of neck coil: 333 mm = 13-7/64 inches
From 12th fret to centerline of bridge coil: 357 mm = 14-4/64 inches
From 12th fret to bridge-side edge of pickup: 370 mm = 14-36/64 inches
I actually would not recommend measuring from the bridge, because the bridge saddles are adjustable. The measurements on one bass might be several mm different from another bass. Measuring from the 12th fret ensures that it's a consistent distance.
Cheers!
@@mikedeeez thanks for the fast reply!
Fantastic video, thanks!
I'm wondering why there's no circuit controls on the Squier. If you used a stacked pot, you could have master volume and a concentric tone control.
Good question, thanks! I wanted to make sure that the output of the pickups went straight to the Stingray preamp, without anything (pots or caps) added. These would change the impedance of the circuit and hence might impact the tone. This way, it's an apples-to-apples comparison with the actual Stingray.
Actually, after this video, I added the P pickup back in to the Squier. I then added separate passive stacked volume/tone controls for the Stingray pickup and the P pickup, PLUS a switch to bypass everything just like I originally had in this video. With the vol/tone , it does make a slight difference vs. vol/tone in the circuit but at 100%. It's not a huge difference, but it's very slightly clearer with everything bypassed, which makes sense. i.e. The passive controls do have a very slight muffling effect, even when they're both on "full".
@@mikedeeez ok. I understand that.
Donny benet is awesome I heard him first time a year ago. Very quirky fella😊
The two jazz pickups in parallel is definitely not an exact copy of the MM pickup sound, but it’s also not far off either.
That's should be a Stingray standard sound, I've played way too many that don't sound like this. Lowend Lobster did a really good Sterling SUB series where he changed pick ups and preamps in a few SUBS and they turned out really nice sounding
Thanks! Yep, Lobster's videos are awesome. Those SUB videos were really interesting.
@@mikedeeez after seeing his videos I was really itching for one of those subs to convert it but I ran across an old OLP Stingray for a hundred bucks, and even though it's passive it's still has that Stingray growl. Eventually I'll get an active one whether it's the sub or the Sterling
@@1thess523 Nice! The passive Stingray sound is definitely cool too; glad it's working for you. Good luck on the quest for the SUB or Sterling! Cheers
@@mikedeeez 👊👊👊
@@mikedeeez ruclips.net/video/Cs9AtyD1T8Y/видео.html
That's a short sound sample of that passive OLP
where are the knobs on the P bass?
I enjoy your crazy mods. Please do some more for us!
Thanks!!
I agree, to me the "standard" preamp was the closest sounding one. I wouldn't notice it if you put it back to back. how about the modern stingray 3 band preamp, where can you get clones of those?
Thanks!! Yes, I have always been surprised that several companies sell a clone of the 2-band Stingray preamp (or at least something CLOSE to the original 2-band circuit), but the only company I have ever seen that offers the 3-band version is the Master Effects Manta Ray. It comes in 2-band and 3-band versions, and it's in a PEDAL format, not an on-board format. I used to own the 2-band version - I traced out the circuit, and it was very close to the original preamp schematic, but included a couple of common "mods". I've never had a chance to try the 3-band version, so I don't know how close it is to the actual Stingray circuit, but it might be an accurate clone.
Actually, after this video, I built the original 2-band Stingray preamp AND the 3-band Stingray preamp into separate pedals myself. That way, I could play the Squier straight into the either one, and compare the tones. I'll try to make a video of it at some point. I've been tied up over the last ~year with work and a house move, but hopefully I'll have more time in the future.
Thanks!
Wowwww..!!
My new mod project 👍
Actually the p bass sounds more like real MM
Is possible to get the preamp diagram?
Where'd you get the pbass pickguard without the pbass pickup hole?...
Good question - it's a P-bass pickguard from Warmoth, but I ordered it WITHOUT any pickup cuts. Then I cut it myself with a Dremel to fit the Stingray pickup.
Great video!! I have a StingRay Erniball from 1992, but a luthier ruined the pickup. Is the Nordstrand mm4.2 pickup, the one that would be closest to the original sound? Do yo have the alnico III or alnico V pickup?
Donny is awesome!
I just subscribed to this channel. I have a music man style bass missing the pickup. However I have a P bass split coil, that I want to install, however they don't sell pickguards routed out for p bass pickups.
Thanks!
A Stingray with a P pickup in the regular "Stingray" position would be really cool. That reminds me of one of the Stingray prototypes that Leo Fender made, except they mounted it in a "reverse P" arrangement (you can see/hear it here: ruclips.net/video/VaT75Irw5LU/видео.html).
If you contact a company that makes replacement Stingray pickguards, like www.wdmusic.com or www.thepickguardshop.com/, I bet that at least one of them would be willing to just sell you a Stingray pickguard with no pickup route. Then you could take it to a guitar shop; they should be able to do the P pickup routing in exactly the location where you want it. If you have a router or a Dremel, then you could also buy a P pickup routing template, and do it yourself.
Actually, the pickguard company might be willing to do the P pickup routing themselves as a custom option too, which might be even easier.
Whatever your decide, good luck! If you ever make a video of it, let me know, I'd love to hear it!
Cool video! The Fender won’t fit in a Stingray case though… ask me how I know 😉
Very nice video !
As far as the obvious idiosyncracies are concerned, much is in the pickup and preamp. But how about flatwounds and neutral eq settings (which is not 50%/50% but somewhere around 30%/30%) ?
Wow you do a realy good job
Love the tee-shirt!
Great job Mike! I like your videos.
Would you like to share with us the exact position of the pickup? For example, measured from the 12th fret to the beginning of the pickup housing, or to the middle.
Keep up the good work.
Best regards!
Many thanks!!
Good question - absolutely, here are measurements from the 1983 Stingray. All of the measurements are made from the middle of the 12th fret.
From 12th fret to neck-side edge of pickup: 321 mm = 12-41/64 inches
From 12th fret to centerline of neck coil: 333 mm = 13-7/64 inches
From 12th fret to centerline of bridge coil: 357 mm = 14-4/64 inches
From 12th fret to bridge-side edge of pickup: 370 mm = 14-36/64 inches
Cheers!
@@mikedeeez Thank you so much for sharing.
Finally usable data for the original Stingray.
Cheers!
thats a G&L model like this a precision body with a humbucker on bridge
You just built a quasi G&L Kiloton active with music man pickup
Two other notable Stingray players are Charles Meeks with Chuck Mangione and Paul S. Denman with Sade.
Man, what you did is awesome! I have a question and i apologize if what i am about to say is dumb. So i have a harley benton ray with seymour duncan ceramic pickups and it sounds nice. However it is passive bass. Is it possible to build this preamp and put it in an external housing and connect bass to it? would i get the same result or is this stupid?
you can tell the difference with the higher notes the stingray is rounder than the custom , but that could just be the cheaper strings on the custom
Pickup placement is key;The tone would've sounded MUCH closer if the pickup in the Squire were moved closer to the Neck.Ever see an Aria Super Bass?THAT thing has the MM style?pickup almost in the middle position!And THOSE basses sound Super Sweet!I had one,but it was too heavy,the pickup was too weak(no active electronics),and the neck was too narrow at the joint area.
Great video! In your opinion what pickup and preamp combination would you think would capture the modern stingray sound? I know everyone loves the pre EBMM sound but there’s something about the new modern sound that I love. Any suggestions would be great!
Thanks!!
Absolutely; there are tons of fans of both the "vintage" and "modern" Stingray sounds. The "modern" sound can be great too.
My understanding is that the main differences between Pre-EB and the EB sounds are 1) the pickup changed from alnico V to ceramic, and 2) the preamp changed to the 3-band EQ version.
You can get ceramic Stingray pickup replacements. Seymour Duncan makes one. I believe it's the SMB-4D, but double-check.
Surprisingly, I don't think any companies make a "clone" of the 3-band Stingray EQ. I have heard that the John East MMSR 3-band EQ is a great replacement, but they say that the design is actually more similar to the pre-EB 2-band EQ (but with a 3rd band added). You could also check on eBay or Reverb for someone selling an actual Stingray 3-band preamp used. They come up for sale sometimes. Thinking outside the box - If you change your bass to passive, you could also use a Master Effects Manta Ray 3-band, which I believe is much closer to the authentic Stingray 3EQ. It's just in a pedal format (which is actually kind of nice).
* NOTE - The newest Stingray Special basses actually now have a *neodymium* pickup, which also apparently sounds a bit different. Unfortunately, I can't find any company that makes replacement Stingray neodymium pickups yet. Hopefully they will be available a few years in the future. It would be nice to have the option.
Good luck!
It is also important to mention that EMG MM-HZ pickup has exactly the same resistance and inductance as the MM pickups, with the only differences being that it ises ceramic-steel magnet (instead of alnico) so it has slighly higher output, and it has a rail instead of metal pole pieces, but that shall not really affect the tone much, i believe.
i am wondering can we use lm4250cn performing under 0 °C temperature , thanks ,
Hi - according to the LM4250C datasheet, no, 0°C is the minimum temperature, so you'd need to keep it above 0°C. However, the regular LM4250 is rated down to -55°C.
@@mikedeeez thank you for reply ,i am a newbie ,learning from youtube ,your videos helps me a lot ,
i am planing to build busking bass amp with cheap amp board ,50w to 100w ,24 v battery ,do i need to solder resistor on amp jack pot ,and how much current do i need for battery ,many many thanks ,
@@sekretlowrider4046 Sounds awesome! Unfortunately, I'm afraid I don't have experience with building amps. I wish I could help you out! Maybe I'll get a chance to learn about amps someday though. Best of luck with the project!!
The CV precision bass is a great buy. Very cool.
Agreed, I was pretty impressed. Thanks!!
Where did you get that P-Bass pickguard without the P-Pickup cutouts?
Good question - it's a P-bass pickguard from Warmoth, but I ordered it WITHOUT any pickup cuts. Then I cut it myself with a Dremel to fit the Stingray pickup.
Cheers
Where did you get your pickguard from mate? you’ve inspired me to do this to a squier p… love the look and feel of a p… but always wanted a MM
Thanks!! Same here, I love P bodies.
Good question - it's a P-bass pickguard from Warmoth, but I ordered it WITHOUT any pickup cuts. Then I cut it myself with a Dremel to fit the Stingray pickup.
Good luck!!
Cheers mate, am I right in thinking that the MM pickup is centred about 30.6” from the nut?
Yo tengo un EB y si noto la diferencia, sobretodo en la profundidad del tono. Lo primero que notas al tocar un EB incluso apagado es que se oye y se siente la profundidad.... Pero por la diferencia en dinero un hack así vale la pena.
¡¡Muchas gracias por el comentario!!
Man awesome comparison! You are a genius!
What do you think about the Aguilar OBP3 ? Is It close to a Stingray preamp?
Thanks!! My pleasure.
I have not tried the OBP3 myself, but I saw LowEndLobster's video where he replaced the preamp in a Ray4 with an OBP3. I'd say it sounded very close to a 3-band Stingray preamp. I tried to look up the exact frequencies of the bass/mid/treble controls, and it looks like the standard Stingray 3-band EQ's frequencies are about 40 Hz / 500 Hz / 12 kHz (according to EB/Music Man). By comparison, the OBP3's frequencies are listed as 40 Hz / 400 Hz or 800 Hz selectable / 6.5 kHz. So the controls will sound a little different from a standard Stingray 3EQ preamp, just because they are boosting/cutting different frequencies.
Still, even if the frequencies are a little different, it still sounded pretty "Stingray-like" to me, when used with a Stingray-style pickup, at the right pickup location. And a lot of people say that they really like them in Stingrays.
(Also, it's a 3-band EQ, so it would be a bit different from the earlier pre-EB 2-band Stingray preamp.)
Cheers!
@@mikedeeez Thanks for your response my friend. I watch all the Lobster mods and are really great! I have an Sterling Ray 5 (Sub) and think that a new alnico pickup with the OBP3 will be a good choice to upgrade my bass. Please mantain the good work in your channel.
Salutations from Brazil !
01
Wow. I like the homemade one better I think. It’s brighter. I’m surprised. I noticed right away but wasn’t sure which was which.
how the hell did u put a humbucker in that P bass thats so cool
The Stingray sounds fuller in the low mids I think.
Theres just something about the pre eb stingray. It sounds so classic. Nothing sounds quite like it. Its such a familiar tone. Its like coming home.
Great video 👍
Ok, hear me out. I think your quest for the vintage Stingray would benefit from some flatwounds. The original strings that came with the pre Ernie Ball basses we're GHS Precision flats. Bernard Edwards mentioned in an interview once he never changed the factory strings.
Thanks!! I should add here that I did string it with flatwounds (separately from this video), and yes, it's awesome. I agree it's essential for the correct Bernard Edwards tone; roundwounds really cannot sound the same. I often use TI Jazz flats, but I should try the GHS Precision Flats for the most accurate Bernard Edwards sound. Many thanks for the recommendation!
cool project
You invented the g&l kiloton!
Wanting to throw a music man pup into my pawnshop bass, I scoped used mm pups on reverb a couple days, and then they give me this vid.
Are they really scoping my browsing choices for my yt feed?
Thanks! Good luck with the project!!
Haha, yeah, I know - sometimes I think YT is even listening to my conversations. :)
@@mikedeeez with ai and algorithms, they can scan everything and categorize it instantly. Voice, concepts, location, and every other thing you've watched and whether your face was actually pointed at the screen camera while each commercial played.
@@mikedeeez I'm wanting to improve my pawnshop bass for about the same budget I paid for it.
Saw fifty different bass humbucker available. Do I want Gibson EB1 style of MM?
Preamp needed or go w stereo outputs? I have crossover hartke ha5000 amp and different range speakers.
This is really a cool experiment, that I would love to try!
Do you have the original specs for the pickup distancing and heights?
Or a link to it perhaps?
I'd like to try making this from scratch, not sure what body type I want, but it looks sick on the P-bass, even the poo-poo brown colour looksgood!
I googled but it kept sending me to the MM website,which other than PR videos, I couldn't find anything.
Thanks!
walnut finish
In the side by side challenge, the Squer sounded much better. Maybe it was the way it was EQ'd or NÒT EQ'd that the Music Man sounded thin & nasally like a wounded duck with almost no bottom end. But the Squier sounded fuller and smoother, something that could support other instruments in a band setting.
Fun video Mike! Now I want to finish those MM preamps I have PCBs for... BTW, have you ever tried the Aguilar (AG-4M) MM pickup?
Thanks!! I have not tried that one, but the reviews are terrific. Maybe I'll pick one up at some point. Cheers
It’s a magnetic pickup. The wood does not matter. It all depends on the pickup, pickup location, pickup height, scale length, type of strings and electronics. The only the wood will affect is the sustain. Softer wood will damp the vibration, harder wood will let the vibrations ring longer.
That Squire kinda looks like a G&L Kiloton.
I would love it if my Jazz bass sounded like that. That said, I love passive.
The only way I heard the difference was hitting the lowend string at the change outside of that they were so close it wasn't a big difference
Even when listening for the change I really couldn't hear the difference. Well done.
Where did you measure to determine the exact pickup placement?
Thanks! Good question. I measured from the nut to the pickup's magnet poles. Cheers
@@mikedeeez That's how I would do it, since bridge size and string length vary.
re tone matching, I think pickup type and position are the biggest factors. I don't think active vs. passive or onboard EQ preamp vs. external amp matter very much. I have a 1996 EBMM Sterling with 3EQ and an OLP (passive Stingray copy). I can get the OLP to sound virtually identical to the Sterling by tweaking the bass amp's EQ. I don't think it matters where the EQ settings come from (preamp vs. bass amp). What do you say?
Hey Mike,
Do you still answer questions around here?
Hi - I do answer questions when I can; we've been moving and work has been very busy, so I'm afraid I haven't had much free time. But feel free to ask; happy to see if it's something I can help with.
@@mikedeeez I want to shunt my existing p-pickup a little towards the neck so I can have the best of both worlds in one bass (with a custom stomp-box for an approximation of the SR preamp)
Do you know if the P-pickup will sound similar enough slightly towards the neck?
@@thejoetandy Hi Joe, yep, if you're just trying to fit the Stingray pickup and the P pickup in one bass, then you only need to shift the P pickup a little bit. Actually, after I made this video, I actually did put the P pickup back in the bass, right next to the SR pickup. I just checked, and the new position is less than 1/4" farther toward the neck, compared to the original position. As far as I can tell, the difference to the tone is pretty minimal. Maybe if I had "before" and "after" sounds, and played one immediately after the other, I MIGHT be able to tell.
For a "reality check": Imagine the difference between the sound of a P pickup and a J neck pickup, on the treble strings (D and G). The P and J are definitely not the same, but they do have a "similar" sound. i.e. Sometimes a J neck pickup can "pass" as a P pickup. The difference between those locations is about 1.25".
So - if you're only moving it less than 1/4", that's way less of a difference than even a P pickup and J neck pickup. Roughly speaking, the tone should sound a TINY bit more like a J neck pickup, but it probably won't be a big change.
Just my best guess, but good luck!!
How is it possible for your pre EB Stingray to look like new?
Right! I know - I have to say I was also suspicious about the bass. So I completely took it apart, and confirmed that indeed, the neck pocket stamp and potentiometer codes are all dated 1983. And all of the other things like headstock decal and preamp board match for 1983. I was pleasantly surprised.
To be fair, on close inspection, there actually are finish cracks, dings, that green crud that forms on fret edges, and other signs of age/wear. But still, someone out there did take remarkably good care of this bass for many years. I feel lucky to have had the chance to try such a well-preserved example.
@@mikedeeez How did previous owner keep it so clean? Looks like he never played it and kept in a case for almost 40 years.