I would recommend leaving the plastic tab at bottom in place and only removing it when needed. Here in Florida having an opening like that you are guaranteed to have wasp nest, lizards and all kinds of things living inside the cover.
Pro tip. You can still use a cordless drill/driver in extracting and tightening screws on these covers. Just use some discipline and tighten slowly until they're snug to avoid cracking the cover. If the power is off, there's no need for insulated hand tools once you've tested the terminals with a voltage tester. If you have over a dozen to do you'll be spending an inordinate amount of time spinning your manual screw driver around.
About to install the first type on our garage for our diesel block heater. We have them on the house and work well although some heavy duty extension cords don't fit well but they are probably rated for more then the circuit was. I'm willing to bet they make something comercial wise to accommodate but 20 amp is what we are working with and don't really need more.
Excellent video, thanks! My mom accidentally broke my existing cover when visiting, and I am thrilled to be able to tell her that the trip to the hardware store was the most time-consuming part of this job.
The second version our Electrician installed. He has been through many other versions and that was the best choice. I agree. It lasts and the door does stay open while plugging In or Out. Sometimes you will need a more flexible extension cord for Christmas lights to bend within the cover so you can close it.
Awesome! Yeah, I have those covers with the individual doors outside, and they’re past their prime, big time! Gonna swap out for those low profile ones! Thanks!
if you have an older metal box you should replace it. I just replaced mine where the outlet caught fire on a non GFCI. The receptacle was very corroded and backstabbed which failed and melted the receptacle.
I can't see that being a huge issue, but you could always reinsert the plastic tab at the bottom when it's not in use. Getting the low profile cover would be the easiest though and you wouldn't have to keep track of the plastic tab.
There us no sealing around with silicon or something like that necessary after installation? Beautiful, smooth and flawless explanation. Thanks , Gracias und Danke schön😃!
There is a foam gasket that compresses when these are installed so caulk isn't required. You can always caulk around the outside to be sure though, especially if the wall is uneven. Thanks for the comment!
@@TopHomeownerI would be concerned with the groves in the wood but, it looks smooth in your situation. I'm mine, however, there's siding and the old caulk has come completely off.
I sent for the Bell brand on Amazon. Instruction for the Bell with regard to gasket are sadly lacking. I'll trash the Bell brand covers and send for the one you are showing.
5:40 everybody already mentioned the GFCI , and that is covered by by an upstream unit. BUT don't you want to examine that old receptacle and at least tighten down those terminal screws?!? (I'd also tape ) Shouldn't it also be WR (weather resistant) rated, even if its in a cover?
Single receptacle in a non-conductive box so you could tape the terminals but I don't think it's necessary. I agree about checking the terminals and replacing the old receptacle with a WR rated one... but for the video since I was just demonstrating the differences between covers, I didn't take the time to go over those points. I should have in hindsight
Idk, your outlet looks fairly new and unused but, for the ignorant, yes, you maybe should have. I'm not using the word ignorant as a derogative word but as it's definition intends. I hadn't finished the video when I made this comment. The second demo is obviously an older outlet.
thanks for the review here. For the low profile one, it doesn't appear waterproof when you plug in an extension cord. Could you provide a screen shot update showing two extension coords coming out of it possibly? I use my front yard receptacle for holiday decorations so I looking for an in-use weatherproof option like the larger profile one. And my outlet is horizontally mounted so it doesn't appear the slip profile one would work for me.
As long as a GFCI outlet is preceding the external outlet (usually the 1st outlet in a series of outlets is GFCI), all daisy chained outlets from the first GFCI outlet are also GFCI protected. It's common practice to have a GFCI interior to a basement, but then branch off that to an external outlet. It's generally bad practice to have multiple GFCI outlets in series on a given run.
In the case John’s describing, I believe code requires these outlets be labeled “GFCI protected” or something of the sort. Usually GFCI receptacles include a handful of these labels so you can have a handful of daisy chained, protected outlets downstream.
One word of caution from someone who discovered it the hard way. You REALLY need to make sure the cover has enough depth and has the right size cut out alignment for your cord. I just installed a full depth Taymac which appeared to be as deep as your first option. There's no way a heavier cord (#12 or # 14) fits properly without the cover left open which makes it pretty dicey as far as actually being weatherproof. Christmas lights? Yeah ok. Something large enough to run a miter saw, small table saw, or even a heat gun? Uh no.
Mine only had the middle screw, so I had to drill out holes on the top and bottom. Luckily there are spots already marked out where possible holes could be; drilled two, and worked great.
I would recommend leaving the plastic tab at bottom in place and only removing it when needed. Here in Florida having an opening like that you are guaranteed to have wasp nest, lizards and all kinds of things living inside the cover.
Not if you keep an eye on it or plan on using it frequently.
@@katielyb All night when the critters are roaming? LOL
Pro tip. You can still use a cordless drill/driver in extracting and tightening screws on these covers. Just use some discipline and tighten slowly until they're snug to avoid cracking the cover. If the power is off, there's no need for insulated hand tools once you've tested the terminals with a voltage tester. If you have over a dozen to do you'll be spending an inordinate amount of time spinning your manual screw driver around.
at 4:16 and 5:52 it doesnt hurt to add a bead of silicone caulk around the edges as well
100% agreed. That foam breaks down fast.
@@ve_ganthat's why the tab gets removed
About to install the first type on our garage for our diesel block heater. We have them on the house and work well although some heavy duty extension cords don't fit well but they are probably rated for more then the circuit was. I'm willing to bet they make something comercial wise to accommodate but 20 amp is what we are working with and don't really need more.
It’s helped. I installed today without any problems. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Excellent video, thanks! My mom accidentally broke my existing cover when visiting, and I am thrilled to be able to tell her that the trip to the hardware store was the most time-consuming part of this job.
Glad I could help!
The second version our Electrician installed. He has been through many other versions and that was the best choice. I agree. It lasts and the door does stay open while plugging In or Out. Sometimes you will need a more flexible extension cord for Christmas lights to bend within the cover so you can close it.
Or one with a plug where the cord is connected vertically instead of horizontally.
I've only ever seen the ones with metal flaps so thank you for sharing
You bet!
Awesome! Yeah, I have those covers with the individual doors outside, and they’re past their prime, big time! Gonna swap out for those low profile ones! Thanks!
if you have an older metal box you should replace it. I just replaced mine where the outlet caught fire on a non GFCI. The receptacle was very corroded and backstabbed which failed and melted the receptacle.
Thanks. Some really great info on all your videos I've watched so far.
Awesome Tutorial!
Thank you!
You’re a great instructor
Thank you, that means a lot.
The lockable feature is hilarious. I’ve broken these with ease on accident. That cover isn’t going to stop a crackhead neighbor from stealing power.😂
With that big hole in the bottom of the first cover you installed, would you want to avoid using that type of cover in places that get snow drifts?
I can't see that being a huge issue, but you could always reinsert the plastic tab at the bottom when it's not in use. Getting the low profile cover would be the easiest though and you wouldn't have to keep track of the plastic tab.
Great video!!!
There us no sealing around with silicon or something like that necessary after installation? Beautiful, smooth and flawless explanation. Thanks , Gracias und Danke schön😃!
There is a foam gasket that compresses when these are installed so caulk isn't required. You can always caulk around the outside to be sure though, especially if the wall is uneven. Thanks for the comment!
@@TopHomeownerI would be concerned with the groves in the wood but, it looks smooth in your situation. I'm mine, however, there's siding and the old caulk has come completely off.
On the low profile unit shouldn't you have caulked around it since the surface was so rough.
Yes you are correct, caulk should be used in that case.
Nice video. Thanks 🙏
No problem!
I sent for the Bell brand on Amazon. Instruction for the Bell with regard to gasket are sadly lacking. I'll trash the Bell brand covers and send for the one you are showing.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
6:26
Why didn't you replace that outlet?
And is it GFCI protected by something upstream?
Same question.
We didn't need to replace it as it is protected by a GFCI located just before this one on the chain.
5:40 everybody already mentioned the GFCI , and that is covered by by an upstream unit. BUT don't you want to examine that old receptacle and at least tighten down those terminal screws?!? (I'd also tape ) Shouldn't it also be WR (weather resistant) rated, even if its in a cover?
Single receptacle in a non-conductive box so you could tape the terminals but I don't think it's necessary. I agree about checking the terminals and replacing the old receptacle with a WR rated one... but for the video since I was just demonstrating the differences between covers, I didn't take the time to go over those points. I should have in hindsight
Idk, your outlet looks fairly new and unused but, for the ignorant, yes, you maybe should have. I'm not using the word ignorant as a derogative word but as it's definition intends. I hadn't finished the video when I made this comment. The second demo is obviously an older outlet.
Does it bring the replacement clip to replace the gfci one?
Would have used a little bit of silicone to keep water from getting behind the cover
thanks for the review here. For the low profile one, it doesn't appear waterproof when you plug in an extension cord. Could you provide a screen shot update showing two extension coords coming out of it possibly? I use my front yard receptacle for holiday decorations so I looking for an in-use weatherproof option like the larger profile one. And my outlet is horizontally mounted so it doesn't appear the slip profile one would work for me.
It closes and is water proof as the other one
Or, you could purchase an extension cord with a plug that connects to the wire vertically instead of horizontally.
He would have to edit the video to include a screenshot, unfortunately
While you have things taken apart I would have installed a new outlet also that is rated for outdoor use good video tho
I'm confused: shouldn't all outdoor outlets be GFCI? The second one wasn't.
As long as a GFCI outlet is preceding the external outlet (usually the 1st outlet in a series of outlets is GFCI), all daisy chained outlets from the first GFCI outlet are also GFCI protected. It's common practice to have a GFCI interior to a basement, but then branch off that to an external outlet. It's generally bad practice to have multiple GFCI outlets in series on a given run.
In the case John’s describing, I believe code requires these outlets be labeled “GFCI protected” or something of the sort. Usually GFCI receptacles include a handful of these labels so you can have a handful of daisy chained, protected outlets downstream.
You can also use a GFCI breaker at the panel for the circuit it's on
I use the accordion
very nice vid right to the point. not aaahhhh...aaaahhhh....aaaaahhhh
Thanks!
What do you recommend for plug that can only go in side ways left to right...not up and down.
I believe you can change where the hinge is on the cover based on how you want to mount it, horizontal or vertical.
These do have hinges on the side as well as on the top/bottom to allow you to rotate it to fit your needs.
Hi, are they flood proof? Thanks
They won't protect the outlets from a flood
I would have replaced that duplex plug at the same time, since it was painted over and looked like shit.
I did, just not in the video (which I should have apparently!)
lol
That's what I thought
One word of caution from someone who discovered it the hard way. You REALLY need to make sure the cover has enough depth and has the right size cut out alignment for your cord. I just installed a full depth Taymac which appeared to be as deep as your first option. There's no way a heavier cord (#12 or # 14) fits properly without the cover left open which makes it pretty dicey as far as actually being weatherproof. Christmas lights? Yeah ok. Something large enough to run a miter saw, small table saw, or even a heat gun? Uh no.
Screw these bubble covers they suck
The in use are so ugly and bulky. I hate the looks
6:30 most half assed demonstration ever
Mine only had the middle screw, so I had to drill out holes on the top and bottom. Luckily there are spots already marked out where possible holes could be; drilled two, and worked great.
Glad it worked out!
Maybe check the type of outlet you have before going to purchase one? I would be more comfortable doing that I think.
Awesome video!!! Thank you!