Cutting Coin Dies: Newcomer Token Part 5 - Finishing and Striking a Coin
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Our fifth and final part of the Newcomer Token. We finish the reverse and strike a coin.
Please feel free to comment or reach out if you have any other coin types or processes you want to see me do. I plan to try and make cutting dies a regular video series, but I would be glad to include anything else you want to see!
Re-uploaded due to a bad edit on my end! Thanks for being patient.
"Amazing job! Your work is truly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us."
cool project and neat work- enjoyed- thx
Thanks for your detailed demonstration of the process of making dies and striking coins / tokens like it was done in (mainly) the 1000 to 1700 hundreds, here in Europe, (going by the style of the patterns)! The technique has of course been used since the beginning of minting coins (in Anatolia and Greece - and elsewhere), until the mechanization of stamping and die production.. Although the style has changed during the about 2500 years of minting coins in gold, silver, copper or various alloys.
I think the much deeper and more artistic qualities of the classical Greek coins, from various city-states and later empires, are the most beautiful things made by this craft! (E.g. the Athenian and other Greek cities, diverse Aeoli, Obols, Stater and various Drachma, like the di- and especially the tetra-drachms with Athena and the owl, or the even more magnificent decadrachms of the Greek city of Syracuse (on Sicilia)!
I also liked the older thaler of Europe, which spread all over the world, as daler, daalder, crown, pesos (ocho reales) and dollars, which even became a world wide standard currency! First as large silver coins from all the Central and Southern American colonies of Spain, later the gold sovereign (5 silver crowns) of the British empire are, dominated the world trade. And then the North American Dollar became the world currency, during the 2nd world war, (although the last standard silver and gold wasn't circulating after 1935, except for smaller denominations and memorial coins).
So, it's great if we start making old-fashioned coins of smaller denominations in silver, gold etc, and even strike them with dies showing the weight of gold or silver, which we can use in case the banks implement a CBDC that's nothing more than a number and code on the computers!
Making tokens of your favorite metal is nicer than buying a token on a block-chain network!
I don't collect "ether, bits and ripples"! It's a better idea to make some nice ducats and shillings for saving or trading...
Thanks for teaching us some of the craft!
I hope you have videos on annealing the dies and making standardized blanks!
Have a nice time!
I love your videos! I’d love to strike my own coins someday.
Thank you! I'm still working on a beginner track, so keep an eye out for uploads between my projects!
@@TwoBearMint i know this video is old but i still hope i could maybe ask you a couple questions about potentially commissioning you to make coin dies for me
@@kitkat4189 Hello, yes definitely. I emailed you directly or you can contact me on twobearmint.com
Zoro is the same as Grainger. (but 35% cheaper) Zoro sells one inch O1 drill rod, 36" for $39. O1 is easy to harden with a torch and veg oil, then temper to yellow in a home oven. They also have other sizes for your punches.
Question: Why don't you use a pipe to encase the dies to keep them in line? Eliminates much of the shift when striking not to mention the potential pinch on the hand. Is it a speed thing?
Great question - Most period depictions of mints do not include pipes during the striking process. Medieval dies are also not parallel on the sides, so using a sleeve is not possible. Medieval mints had the technology to do so, but they may or may not have used them. To my knowledge, no mint find has a pipe included among the artifacts found. It is much faster (and safer!) to use a sleeve in striking, but I demonstrate the medieval method here.
The dies are also slightly rounded at the edge to prevent pinching.
@@TwoBearMint Awesome. Thank you for the response.
Hail Lobster
Is a bolster necessary? I put my dies in a stump, though I have yet to get a single good strike so maybe there is something to this bolster thing...
What tools are used for cutting coin dies from start to finish? I've always wanted to try this and I've tried researching what tools are used, but I couldn't find anything.
I am generally using a square graver for engraving - Muller Carbide square size 6. The punches are made to my needs from Harbor Freight punches reshaped and rehardened by hand. I will need to upload several more videos in the "making medieval style coins" series, I just have not had the time to film. Please let me know if you have any other questions! The goal of these videos is to introduce newbies to the hobby and help keep this craft from fading away to purely machine made coinage.
I wanted to make a dye, had to talk about that.
How cool! I really need a set of stamps to strike an 1100s medieval coin. Can you make such a set for me?
Sure. Send me an email or reach out to me on my website : twobearmint.com
Hello! I have a question, where do you get the steel for your dies?
Hello,
I purchase 1018 cold rolled steel 1" diameter round bars from an local metal shop. You may have luck at other locations like online metals.com if you dont have a local shop.
Thank you so much! I appreciate your help!
Hello! I've been wanting to try my hand at engraving dies and striking my own tokens. What gravers do you use? Do you temper the 1018 before striking?
Oh I just saw you answered the graver part in another comment, I'll check those out.
For the steel, which do you get from Harbor Freight and fo they cut to size? How long do you get each die piece cut to?
I would love to see more videos on the process! I've been looking into this for a while, but there's just not a lot of "entry" level information out there.
Hello, I would be glad to help any way I can. For this coin, I used a Muller brand Carbide Square graver size 6.
Also, 1018 cannot be heat treated to improve performance. I use 1018 because it is soft enough to work with hardened steel but is also hard enough to strike aluminum and silver. Please keep us updated on your attempts!
Is there anyway I could buy a few? Thanks
Feel free to send me an email at twobearmint@gmail.com
Hello if I give you a design can you make me coin dies and send them to me if I pay you
Hlo
If he did a biden Presidential "Let's Go Brandon" coin, He couldn't sell enough of them.
Do nice things, not just anything! first learn the experience and then post your GOOD WORK online ... You have to study a lot and you need to have experience afterwards. So far you have no experience and weak coins you do ...
Classy! You must be fun at parties.
And how many coin dies have you personally made? He may not be a pro, but he was good enough to show everyone the process from beginning to final product.