By far, the best paint prep explanation on the planet. The 'wetting test' is simply briliant....and to think of all the people that are trying paint thinners...
Re source for diamond coated glass: I no longer remember, but there are many DLC (Diamond Like Coating) coaters and you can ask for quotes (you supply the glass). They charge a few hundred $ per run, but a run can be many (say 20-50) panels.
Hi Dan, you recommended Diamonex as a supplier for Diamond-like-coatied glass to me, but they won't sell to individuals like me.... They tell me they only sell to manufacturers of retails scanners in Korea and China.... If you still have a local source. would you either put me in touch or get 2 panes and post them to me? Either would be greatly appreciated! Joe Hovel (joe.hovel@gmail.com)
As diamond coated glass is not so easily available to us home users, I heard the recommendation to use 3M clear urethane paint protection film, available on Amazon, $35 for 12" x 48" roll. This is normally used to cover the front of a car to protect against stone chips. Haven't tried it yet, but it sounds intriguing. I've seen urethane linings on orbital vibratory deburrers last for years.
A good alternative to the diamond coated glass is to install two rolls, supply and take up, of polyester film (4mil to 8mil). The shaft of the take-up roll extends through the cabinet wall. When hazy, just advance the roll. The diamond coated glass lasts a long time, but not forever.
Perhaps an option would be to use a " backup camera kit" as you have on various other pieces of equipment. Then you would only need one small piece of DLC coated glass.
After a lifetime in the shop these videos taught me TONS of stuff! I am sending these links to soooooooo many people I know. My only suggestion is: DO MORE VIDEOS! DO MORE VIDEOS!
awesome video, it helped my a lot. out of curiosity: the surface energy depends on the specific surface energy and the area. how that does work with the area, i cant find any literature on this? this also seems to raise questions of scaling (like what size do the grooves and ridges have to be in order to "count" to the surface energy)?
Hard to estimate surfce area of a rough surface, but the important thing is that what matters is not how dee the texture is (RMS roughness) but how complex it is. A very fine complex grain is better than a few deep scratches.
Sandblasting works for every material, including plastic. For plastics which have a solvent (thermoplastics like ABS, PVC, acrylic) you can add a bit o the solvent to the paint (if paint is solvent based) or wipe the surface with the solvent immediately before painting, and this will eliminate the need to prepare the surface. For cross-linked plastics (fiberglass, epoxy, phenolics etc) there is no solvent.
This is the best explination of paint surface perpetration I have ever heard. You are a good teacher, keep up the good work, and please keep on teaching us!
Dear Dan, This set of videos is simply the best and the most inspiring on the topic. You are an excellent instructor. I am sharing this with my grad students in robotics. Best, Afsar.
Dan, Thanks for your response. I know what you mean about reading, as I read everything I can before I tackle anything new. One reason I take ages to complete anything :-) Geoff
Where can people purchase panels coated with Diamond Like Carbon (DLC aka amorphous diamond)? You mentioned it around ruclips.net/video/x7onZGqrYyY/видео.html Thanks!
After watching numerous videos in this series, the one prominent letdown was the camera angles used in filming. They were all very poor. Especially in the last video (spot welding) and in this video at the beginning with the sand-blaster. You just cannot see what is happening due to you and or equipment being in the line of sight. Better care in the future should be given and or considered to the viewer's perspective.
Hi Mr Gelbart, Thank you so much for uploading such a fantastic series. You are an excellent educator. The material is presented concisely & I am riveted to every video. Unfortunately, I cannot obtain Ajax or Comet in Europe. Would you know the name of any brands available in the UK or Ireland? Or maybe you could tell me the important active ingredient/s required, so I might have a more fruitful search here in Ireland? :-) Excellent Series!
Thank you Dan. :-) I forgot to say that I mostly use aluminum to keep my items light, as I often wear the equipment I create on my body. Would you have different recommendations for preparing aluminum, or would bathroom powder cleaner also be suitable? Unfortunately, I don’t have space at the minute for a sandblaster or dedicated oven.
oh thanks .. i bought chrome paint a while ago and was not looking chrome.. was gray... and was a ton of money for that bottle. I got very disappointed. I wasn't aware i was supposed to heat it up until i seen this video. This is the high quality education which the internet was made for. Thank you very much :)
Hi Dan (again), I've been looking for the diamond glass you talk about and when I contacted glass shops they don't know what that is.. I'm in Canada (Alberta), any suggestions where to look?
Others reported the same problem, but there is another solution: remove glass window and install a supply roll and takeup roll for clear plastic sheet outside the machine (the clear sheet forming the window, the sheet a bit wider than opening). When the sheet gets used up, just advance it. I tried in on another sandblaster and it is great.
Thanks Dan, so far (and I can only speak for myself), I like your balance of both your philosophy of prototyping (not always by-the-book) and the physics\chemistry that goes with it. Well, 12 videos to go, hope you do some more and thanks again. Charles P.S. Isn't using Ajax or Comet akin to a poor mans' 'manual sandblasting' :)
Thanks for explaining why the primer never stuck to the sheet metal jobs i did even after chemical solvent cleaning. Lots of oil on the MS sheets. That powder would be like copier toner, wonder if it will work in a laser printer?
I'm a little confused about the fact that most liquid paints use hydrocarbon solvents as their thinners and drying agents. How is this not an issue with a prepared surface? And between coats of wet paint, how do you avoid the build up of this invisible enemy when it often takes a couple of days to fully dry a primer?
+Tobias A. Feltus There are many types of hydrocarbons, the ones deposited from oil vapours prevent adhesion. They are a higher molecular weight. The low molecular weight ones evaporate. The solvent in the new paint layers somewhat dissolve the old layer and adheres. Think of washing oily parts with gasoline: both are hydrocarbons, but one is used to remove the other.
@@dgelbart excellent, thanks for the advice. Any plans to do some more videos? Also, do you have a website that elaborates on the subjects in your videos?
Dear Mr. Gelbart, I want to express my admiration for your videos. They contain so much useful information for me. I would donate on patreon for you if it would help but I know it does not. So just Thanks from another human being. Its a great job you did here and overall.
@@chiquinhoreydelas Yes that is true. It was acquired by Kodak. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creo_(company) I was also astonished by the videos and had to look on google what he did in his life.
Dan, Shalom. You have taught me something I never knew about pre-paint preparation! I have a small powder coat system but haven't tried the chrome yet, so your mention that it's good means I don't have to worry about finding a plating company near me and parting with truck loads of shekels. Wonderful and thank you. I will be re-painting my 1935 Austin Seven car, so your advise has come at an opportune time. Where/how did you get such knowledge? Regards Geoff UK
Hi Dan, I am in the process of refurbishing a lathe and am needing to sandblasted the machine but have not found a suitable way to mask off the machined surfaces. Do you have any suggestions for masking prior to sandblasting? Also, where do you find diamond coated glass?
You do the cleaning within an hour of painting or gluing, so parts have no chance to rust. Tapwater is fine. If you wait several hours you need to clean again, as the hydrocarbons in the air start depositing a layer on the metal. If you have many parts and you want to do all the cleaning days ahead, you have to use a gumming solution to preserve the parts. The gumming solution is washed off with tap water before use.
Dan, does soda blasting also allow the wetting you demonstrated with sand blasting? I have some anodized aluminum that needs to have glue residue removed. I was wondering whether soda blasting would clean and allow wetting on anodized aluminum (or a superior bond, as that s what I am after). I will just give it a go, but I wonder what is actually happening. I will recoat with crazy glue, and probably the soda residue will kick off the glue. So it will probably look pretty good, but I have no idea what the chemistry or physics will be. What works now is cleaning with Ajax cleanser, which is no longer locally available, and that process is messy and drawn out. Thanks for you videos!
Soda blasting is used to remove contamination without changing the surface so it is not effective to increase paint adhesion or wetting. Any clean metal surface wets better, but it does not change the surface area or surface energy.
Hi Dan is the variable voltage only is a standard power supply that will go to 100kv? At what Amp your system is working at? I guess you build it yourself.
Yes, current is limited for safety to 100uA. No need to build it, these days you can buy it for a reasonable price from columbiacoatings.com and other powder coat suppliers.
Very interesting and informative. I'm watching video after video and can't get enough. I wonder if the hydrocarbons monolayer has any ( substantial? ) impact on thermal conductivity in high performance heat sinks - ones that use thermal paste to achieve better metal to metal contact ( like in desktop computer CPU's ). It's the first time in my life I heard anything about hydrocarbon monolayer leftover after "de greasing".
Its contagious how much you enjoy sharing this Dan! Im not sure why you're so happy + willing to give away these ideas. But Im guilty of having paint-prepped product enclosures which would have failed the paint test -- except UNTIL this video, I expected paint failure like that to be expected!
Just tried this with aluminum and it didn't work. I heated it to about 300C and lightly sanded with fabric degreaser to no avail. The water still rolls off, although not as well as untreated. I guess harder sanding with chlorox might be better.
As I explained in the video, the degreasers are useless. You need to use Comet or "Bar Tenders Friend" type of powders to make the surface hydrophilic. The degreasers leave a monolayer of hydrocarbon that is enioufg to prevent wetting. THe heating idea is not good for aluminum as ar 300 degrees it will become soft, even when cooled down.
@@dgelbart thanks for your reply, master Gelbart! :D Yes, I only tried the sandpaper with degreaser after testing it with just heating (I didn't have Comet-type stuff at the moment). I'll try sanding it with Comet later. But for my project I may not need it because powder coating seemed to adhere super strong. At least in my small sample test.
@@dgelbart oh, and I have to heat aluminum to about 400c to braze it together with an aluminum brazing rod. I haven't considered it becoming soft. Thanks for your reminder, I should look into ways of tempering it.
Hello Dan, This is the best video I have ever seen!!! Many thanks! I have some parts that have been sand blasted and hot dip galvanized and I would like to ask you… what is the correct prep procedure to powder coat these parts? Do you think I need to apply also a powder Zinc Primer after prepping? Many thanks and best regards Luca
I would go with a very light sand blast, just to get a dull finish on the zinc. Sandblasting works better than any primer I have ever seen. Hold parts far away from the blasting gun. Interestingly, even if the zinc comes off at some spots they are still protected by the zinc around them.
@@dgelbart Hi Dan, many thanks for your answer! I didn’t expect that! 😉 Do you think that a garnet sand mesh 120 (0,125mm - 0,180mm) could be the correct blasting media? What about the pression? 3 bar (43 psi) should be ok? Many thanks! Luca
@@dgelbart Hi Dan, Sorry for disturbing you again. I would like to askyou also... can I use also glass beads for sand blasting the hot dip galvanized parts do dull the surface? Would you after sand blasting also clean the parts with the Bar Keeper friends powder or just blow the dust away with a compressor before powder coating? Many thanks Luca
Learning more than days of you tube "professional" videos. Question. On 8:32 that equipment hold on cabinet up your right shoulder is a thermometer? Is the same shape as my rc nitro engine.
Yes, but for aluminum caustic soda (NaOH) actually attacks the metal and leaves a much better bonding surface. Sandblasting is much better than NaOH and NaOH is much better than TSP. For brass, copper, bronze, stainless nothing except sansblasting works.
There is a second solution which is good: install a roll of transparent plastic (say 0.1-0.2mm/4 to 8 mil clear polyester) inside the cabinet with a metal frame holding the plastic against the glass window. Install another roll to take up the used material. Advance the roll one frame every time visibility is poor.
It might be worth trying those automotive 'ceramic' coatings, I hear that they are very chip resistant, but I don't have a sandblaster on which to try it.
By far, the best paint prep explanation on the planet. The 'wetting test' is simply briliant....and to think of all the people that are trying paint thinners...
This explain u literally everything u need to know and won't find ever this complete on youtube
Re source for diamond coated glass: I no longer remember, but there are many DLC (Diamond Like Coating) coaters and you can ask for quotes (you supply the glass). They charge a few hundred $ per run, but a run can be many (say 20-50) panels.
Hi Dan,
you recommended Diamonex as a supplier for Diamond-like-coatied glass to me, but they won't sell to individuals like me....
They tell me they only sell to manufacturers of retails scanners in Korea and China....
If you still have a local source. would you either put me in touch or get 2 panes and post them to me?
Either would be greatly appreciated!
Joe Hovel (joe.hovel@gmail.com)
+Dan Gelbart I found some Honneywell part numbers to help people with their googling:
46-46807- Diamonex Platter for compact (420mm) (16.5") StratosH 2322.
46-46806- Diamonex Platter for full-size 508mm (20.0") StratosH 2320/2321.
46-00233 - Diamonex Platter - Compact Stratos 2421,
46-00234- Diamonex Platter for sub-compact (353mm) (13.9") Stratos 2422.
46-00296- Diamonex Platter with lift handle for compact (399mm) Stratos 2421.
46-01085 - Diamonex Platter - 508mm StratosMS2430-105KD-US.
46-00235- Sapphire Platter for compact (399mm) Stratos 2421.
46-46809- Sapphire Platter for compact (420mm) StratosH 2322.
46-46808- Sapphire Platter for full-size (508mm) StratosH 2320/2321.
46-00236- Sapphire Platter for sub-compact (353mm) Stratos 2422.
46-00297- Sapphire Platter with lift handle for compact (399mm) Stratos 2421.
46-01127 -Sapphire Platter for StratosS and 2421 (399mm) with 3 flip ups.
As diamond coated glass is not so easily available to us home users, I heard the recommendation to use 3M clear urethane paint protection film, available on Amazon, $35 for 12" x 48" roll. This is normally used to cover the front of a car to protect against stone chips. Haven't tried it yet, but it sounds intriguing. I've seen urethane linings on orbital vibratory deburrers last for years.
A good alternative to the diamond coated glass is to install two rolls, supply and take up, of polyester film (4mil to 8mil). The shaft of the take-up roll extends through the cabinet wall. When hazy, just advance the roll. The diamond coated glass lasts a long time, but not forever.
Perhaps an option would be to use a " backup camera kit" as you have on various other pieces of equipment. Then you would only need one small piece of DLC coated glass.
After a lifetime in the shop these videos taught me TONS of stuff!
I am sending these links to soooooooo many people I know.
My only suggestion is:
DO MORE VIDEOS! DO MORE VIDEOS!
quality (not audio quality), not quantity my friend
Thumbs up if you want Dan to do more videos!
awesome video, it helped my a lot. out of curiosity: the surface energy depends on the specific surface energy and the area. how that does work with the area, i cant find any literature on this? this also seems to raise questions of scaling (like what size do the grooves and ridges have to be in order to "count" to the surface energy)?
Hard to estimate surfce area of a rough surface, but the important thing is that what matters is not how dee the texture is (RMS roughness) but how complex it is. A very fine complex grain is better than a few deep scratches.
@@dgelbart iow you want fractal grooves. That's very groovy! 😎
Good video. What is the best way to prepare soft plastics -abs/nylon for painting?
Sandblasting works for every material, including plastic. For plastics which have a solvent (thermoplastics like ABS, PVC, acrylic) you can add a bit o the solvent to the paint (if paint is solvent based) or wipe the surface with the solvent immediately before painting, and this will eliminate the need to prepare the surface. For cross-linked plastics (fiberglass, epoxy, phenolics etc) there is no solvent.
Very helpful information, but the sound is painfully distorted. Wish I could've been there to help with the recording =/
What is your opinion on phosphating followed by painting?
This is a very good process if you have the set-up, which usually involves heated tanks.
@@dgelbart it works well. It's very cool when the phosphate coating sucks up the paint off the part
This is a masterclass.
This is the best explination of paint surface perpetration I have ever heard. You are a good teacher, keep up the good work, and please keep on teaching us!
Found your channel through today episode of Scoutcrafter whom said you a wealth of knowledge ... I agree totally! Thanks for the videos
did the same in 2024
you sir are a goddamn genius
Special thanks to Ben from Applied Science for sending me this way :D
It’s so good to watch someone so knowledgeable who loves what he knows :)
Dear Dan,
This set of videos is simply the best and the most inspiring on the topic. You are an excellent instructor. I am sharing this with my grad students in robotics. Best, Afsar.
Thank you Mr. Gelbart. You are the best teacher one could wish for!
Dan, thank you very much. I am watching you video's with great interest... Wonderfully useful information...!
Dan,
Thanks for your response.
I know what you mean about reading, as I read everything I can before I tackle anything new.
One reason I take ages to complete anything :-)
Geoff
Where can people purchase panels coated with Diamond Like Carbon (DLC aka amorphous diamond)? You mentioned it around ruclips.net/video/x7onZGqrYyY/видео.html Thanks!
What a wonderful instructor.
After watching numerous videos in this series, the one prominent letdown was the camera angles used in filming. They were all very poor. Especially in the last video (spot welding) and in this video at the beginning with the sand-blaster. You just cannot see what is happening due to you and or equipment being in the line of sight. Better care in the future should be given and or considered to the viewer's perspective.
Hi Mr Gelbart,
Thank you so much for uploading such a fantastic series. You are an excellent educator. The material is presented concisely & I am riveted to every video. Unfortunately, I cannot obtain Ajax or Comet in Europe. Would you know the name of any brands available in the UK or Ireland? Or maybe you could tell me the important active ingredient/s required, so I might have a more fruitful search here in Ireland? :-) Excellent Series!
Use any powder sold for scrubbing countertops and sinks. Some are based on oxalic acid, some are a mixture of carbonates and chlorates.
Thank you Dan. :-) I forgot to say that I mostly use aluminum to keep my items light, as I often wear the equipment I create on my body. Would you have different recommendations for preparing aluminum, or would bathroom powder cleaner also be suitable? Unfortunately, I don’t have space at the minute for a sandblaster or dedicated oven.
For aluminum best is NaOH (caustic soda). Wear rubber gloves and goggles!
Where can one purchase a Diamond Coated Glass for the Glass Bead Machine
Thank you! I love your accent. Makes me miss my bubby!
I never experienced such an informative channel. Thank you for the effort and time that went into these videos.
oh thanks .. i bought chrome paint a while ago and was not looking chrome.. was gray... and was a ton of money for that bottle. I got very disappointed. I wasn't aware i was supposed to heat it up until i seen this video. This is the high quality education which the internet was made for. Thank you very much :)
That part needs sent back to the welder to be filled. In prototyping spot putty would make more since. Or lacquer putty or bondo.
I love your videos, and very much enjoy your accent.
Thanks
Amazing information! Thank you very much for making these videos!
Hi Dan (again), I've been looking for the diamond glass you talk about and when I contacted glass shops they don't know what that is.. I'm in Canada (Alberta), any suggestions where to look?
Others reported the same problem, but there is another solution: remove glass window and install a supply roll and takeup roll for clear plastic sheet outside the machine (the clear sheet forming the window, the sheet a bit wider than opening). When the sheet gets used up, just advance it. I tried in on another sandblaster and it is great.
@@dgelbart that makes sense although I'd prefer a long lasting solution. Is there a trade name for the glass you have?
@@kmpnelson It is for supermarket scanners but since I made the video it wore out as well.
@@dgelbart Oh that's good to know, perhaps time for another excellent video? ;)
Something that I'm currently struggling with is how to get good paint inlaying for engraved lettering, if you're looking for a topic. Ha
Thanks Dan, so far (and I can only speak for myself), I like your balance of both your philosophy of prototyping (not always by-the-book) and the physics\chemistry that goes with it.
Well, 12 videos to go, hope you do some more and thanks again.
Charles
P.S. Isn't using Ajax or Comet akin to a poor mans' 'manual sandblasting' :)
Thanks for explaining why the primer never stuck to the sheet metal jobs i did even after chemical solvent cleaning. Lots of oil on the MS sheets. That powder would be like copier toner, wonder if it will work in a laser printer?
I'm a little confused about the fact that most liquid paints use hydrocarbon solvents as their thinners and drying agents. How is this not an issue with a prepared surface? And between coats of wet paint, how do you avoid the build up of this invisible enemy when it often takes a couple of days to fully dry a primer?
+Tobias A. Feltus There are many types of hydrocarbons, the ones deposited from oil vapours prevent adhesion. They are a higher molecular weight. The low molecular weight ones evaporate. The solvent in the new paint layers somewhat dissolve the old layer and adheres. Think of washing oily parts with gasoline: both are hydrocarbons, but one is used to remove the other.
+Dan Gelbart Ok, that makes sense. But what about build ups of oil vapours between coats of wet paint?
+Tobias A. Feltus New paint usually chemically bonds with the old paint so the hydrocarbon monolayer is not a big problem.
What would you suggest for preparing non metal surfaces such as plastic for gluing or painting?
light sandblasting, and if not possible scrub with bathroom cleaner such as Comet until water wets part well.
@@dgelbart excellent, thanks for the advice. Any plans to do some more videos? Also, do you have a website that elaborates on the subjects in your videos?
@@kmpnelson Crafsman just made a video about painting plastics. He found a way to make paint stick well by flame-treating the plastic first.
@@anonymouse527 thanks for the heads up, I'll check it out.
Thank you for reminding me of stuff I just plain forgot. Very good job presenting the material too.
This man needs to be on space X's team
Please, please sir post more videos sharing your knowledge!!!
One of the most informative videos ever fantastic
Dear Mr. Gelbart, I want to express my admiration for your videos. They contain so much useful information for me. I would donate on patreon for you if it would help but I know it does not. So just Thanks from another human being. Its a great job you did here and overall.
I think he's a billionaire, sold his company for 1+ billion an holds 100s of patents, I doubt he does it for the money
@@chiquinhoreydelas Yes he is a billionaire and if someone should be a billiionaire its Dan Gelbart
yep, real master of his craft
@@MrTry1981 I have never seen anyone more deserving of being a billionaire than this guy.
@@chiquinhoreydelas Yes that is true. It was acquired by Kodak. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creo_(company)
I was also astonished by the videos and had to look on google what he did in his life.
Dan,
Shalom.
You have taught me something I never knew about pre-paint preparation!
I have a small powder coat system but haven't tried the chrome yet, so your mention that it's good means I don't have to worry about finding a plating company near me and parting with truck loads of shekels.
Wonderful and thank you.
I will be re-painting my 1935 Austin Seven car, so your advise has come at an opportune time.
Where/how did you get such knowledge?
Regards
Geoff
UK
All comes from being bored, so you start reading books and thinking. .
very useful information. thank you!
Hi Dan, I am in the process of refurbishing a lathe and am needing to sandblasted the machine but have not found a suitable way to mask off the machined surfaces. Do you have any suggestions for masking prior to sandblasting?
Also, where do you find diamond coated glass?
Best protection fron sandblasting is thin rubber sheet, about 1mm. You can attach it with contact cement or buy it self-adhesive.
How do you prevent rust while using water and scouring powder to clean bare metal?
Is plain old tap water ok or should you use distilled water?
You do the cleaning within an hour of painting or gluing, so parts have no chance to rust. Tapwater is fine. If you wait several hours you need to clean again, as the hydrocarbons in the air start depositing a layer on the metal. If you have many parts and you want to do all the cleaning days ahead, you have to use a gumming solution to preserve the parts. The gumming solution is washed off with tap water before use.
Excellent tips Dan!
Dan,
does soda blasting also allow the wetting you demonstrated with sand blasting?
I have some anodized aluminum that needs to have glue residue removed. I was wondering whether soda blasting would clean and allow wetting on anodized aluminum (or a superior bond, as that s what I am after). I will just give it a go, but I wonder what is actually happening. I will recoat with crazy glue, and probably the soda residue will kick off the glue. So it will probably look pretty good, but I have no idea what the chemistry or physics will be.
What works now is cleaning with Ajax cleanser, which is no longer locally available, and that process is messy and drawn out.
Thanks for you videos!
Soda blasting is used to remove contamination without changing the surface so it is not effective to increase paint adhesion or wetting. Any clean metal surface wets better, but it does not change the surface area or surface energy.
Hi Dan is the variable voltage only is a standard power supply that will go to 100kv? At what Amp your system is working at? I guess you build it yourself.
Yes, current is limited for safety to 100uA. No need to build it, these days you can buy it for a reasonable price from columbiacoatings.com and other powder coat suppliers.
sandblasting equittment is pretty expensive.... i wouldn't say it's cheap xD
Harbor freight has a pretty cheap sand blasting unit, they also go for very reasonable prices at tool/equipment auctions.
scoutcrafter said this video was great
*It's not.*
what is the preferred process for removing the cleaning power off the parts prior to painting?
Just rinse with tap water and dry.
Very interesting and informative. I'm watching video after video and can't get enough.
I wonder if the hydrocarbons monolayer has any ( substantial? ) impact on thermal conductivity in high performance heat sinks - ones that use thermal paste to achieve better metal to metal contact ( like in desktop computer CPU's ).
It's the first time in my life I heard anything about hydrocarbon monolayer leftover after "de greasing".
No effect on heat conductivity because the layer is so thin (under a nm).
@@dgelbart Thank you.
These videos are gold
What ingredient should I look for in an alternative detergent, if we do not have Ajax or Comet available in our market? Thank you so much!
Any toilet scrubbing powder, one of the best is "Bar Keepers Friend" from Amazon.
Thank you so much for the prompt reply and for answering my question, Mr. Gelbart! I'll check out what toilet scrubbing powders we have in Europe.
Its contagious how much you enjoy sharing this Dan! Im not sure why you're so happy + willing to give away these ideas. But Im guilty of having paint-prepped product enclosures which would have failed the paint test -- except UNTIL this video, I expected paint failure like that to be expected!
Thank you for helping me, a mechanical design engineer, in my efforts to appear less stupid in front of the machinists whom I could not live without
Excellent video, quick, concise, and still conveys all necessary information and background
Just tried this with aluminum and it didn't work. I heated it to about 300C and lightly sanded with fabric degreaser to no avail. The water still rolls off, although not as well as untreated. I guess harder sanding with chlorox might be better.
As I explained in the video, the degreasers are useless. You need to use Comet or "Bar Tenders Friend" type of powders to make the surface hydrophilic. The degreasers leave a monolayer of hydrocarbon that is enioufg to prevent wetting. THe heating idea is not good for aluminum as ar 300 degrees it will become soft, even when cooled down.
@@dgelbart thanks for your reply, master Gelbart! :D Yes, I only tried the sandpaper with degreaser after testing it with just heating (I didn't have Comet-type stuff at the moment). I'll try sanding it with Comet later. But for my project I may not need it because powder coating seemed to adhere super strong. At least in my small sample test.
@@dgelbart oh, and I have to heat aluminum to about 400c to braze it together with an aluminum brazing rod. I haven't considered it becoming soft. Thanks for your reminder, I should look into ways of tempering it.
Thank you Dan! This video was eye opening. Have been painting my own cars for years and finally everything makes sense! :)
Excellent video.
Dan, great video series! Quick one for you, what is that acetone container/bottle you are using?
David Thornley Some standard lab bottle, don't know were it came from. Any bottle will do.
Dan Gelbart Thanks for the kind words. I will, but not in the near future as I'm very busy.
Hi,
Please make video for plastic painting or coating pleaaase.
Check out Crafman's latest video on that.
@@anonymouse527 Link please
@@abdh621 ruclips.net/video/6Rc4LKMHC74/видео.html
Videocam operator needs to put more effort in!
Great tutorial!
What is the name of that chrome color you mentioned at 17:40?
Cheers!
Here it is: www.columbiacoatings.com/store/p/1118-All-In-One-Chrome.aspx
Dan Gelbart
Thank you very much!
Hello Dan,
This is the best video I have ever seen!!! Many thanks!
I have some parts that have been sand blasted and hot dip galvanized and I would like to ask you… what is the correct prep procedure to powder coat these parts? Do you think I need to apply also a powder Zinc Primer after prepping?
Many thanks and best regards
Luca
I would go with a very light sand blast, just to get a dull finish on the zinc. Sandblasting works better than any primer I have ever seen. Hold parts far away from the blasting gun. Interestingly, even if the zinc comes off at some spots they are still protected by the zinc around them.
@@dgelbart Hi Dan, many thanks for your answer! I didn’t expect that! 😉
Do you think that a garnet sand mesh 120 (0,125mm - 0,180mm) could be the correct blasting media? What about the pression? 3 bar (43 psi) should be ok?
Many thanks! Luca
any grit and any pressure is OK as long as you just dull the surface. @@TheDuke279
@@dgelbart Many thanks!!👍😊
@@dgelbart Hi Dan,
Sorry for disturbing you again. I would like to askyou also... can I use also glass beads for sand blasting the hot dip galvanized parts do dull the surface? Would you after sand blasting also clean the parts with the Bar Keeper friends powder or just blow the dust away with a compressor before powder coating? Many thanks
Luca
Yoda.
love your videos
Dan you are the man! But good sand blasters are not cheap. How much is the one you have?
About $1500.
Learning more than days of you tube "professional" videos. Question. On 8:32 that equipment hold on cabinet up your right shoulder is a thermometer? Is the same shape as my rc nitro engine.
yes, non-contact thermometer.
@@dgelbart Do you know what is the manufacturer? Thanks
@@RBAERO There are several. See www.alloyshop.com/nitinol.html
@@dgelbart Thanks for the Nitinol link. The manufacturer I'm ask about that non contact thermometer.
@@RBAERO Many vendors on Amazon and Ebay.
21:15 a moment of silence for our fallen headphone-wearing brethren
Is tsp an acceptable cleaning agent ?
Yes, but for aluminum caustic soda (NaOH) actually attacks the metal and leaves a much better bonding surface. Sandblasting is much better than NaOH and NaOH is much better than TSP.
For brass, copper, bronze, stainless nothing except sansblasting works.
High “serface” energy. I like that phrase.
When you heat up the chrome paint to a mirror finish, is that an example of sintering?
those diamond-coated glass panels from checkout scanners are NOT generally available - I've searched and searched.
There is a second solution which is good: install a roll of transparent plastic (say 0.1-0.2mm/4 to 8 mil clear polyester) inside the cabinet with a metal frame holding the plastic against the glass window. Install another roll to take up the used material. Advance the roll one frame every time visibility is poor.
It might be worth trying those automotive 'ceramic' coatings, I hear that they are very chip resistant, but I don't have a sandblaster on which to try it.