26 people don't like someone showing the craft, this is a highly complicated task, i kept wondering when he would remove another snap ring, jesus it was endless. I have the same tranny, 120,000 jeep liberty never been to a mechanic, I take care of everything. going to change the fluid, I wanted to understand how it works, what components were in my tranny, and you should too because knowledge is power, I dont know where he is tossing those bolts he removes, but I am certain he has his own system and it works for him, he is obviously detailed and brilliant, I admire that. Nice job Gary.
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME. READING THE COMMENTS AND WATCHING THE VALVE BODY REBUILD VIDEO FOR THE 42RLE ANSWER EVERY QUESTION I HAVE HAD SO FAR SUCH AS.... HOW AND WHERE TO OHM OUT THE SOLENOID PACK DOWN TOO HAVING IT SET IN LOW TO DROP THE VALVE BODY. THIS TEAR DOWN VIDEO IS TOP NOTCH !!! YOU GARY SHOULD BE AN INSTRUCTOR. YOU ARE A SUPER GUY PUTTING ALL THIS VALUABLE INFO OUT HERE FOR US TOO GAIN FROM. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE. I WISH YOU HAD A SHOP NEAR ATLANTA BECAUSE I'D BRING MY 42RLE THERE TO HAVE IT REBUILT JUST SO I COULD GET THE HANDS ON PART OF GAINING THE KNOWLEDGE YOU HAVE SHOWED ME SO FAR!! DO YOU HAVE A 42RLE REBUILT THAT YOU SELL OUT OF YOUR SHOP? IF THE SOLENOID PACK CHANGE DON'T WORK I MAY HAVE TO HAVE MINE REBUILT. DO YOU HAVE ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A SHOP IN THE ATLANTA AREA IF YOU DON'T HAVE A REBUILT ON HAND?
@@GaryFerraro I cleared the code. Drive okay 5 miles. Turned it off and drive again. The temp gauge started moving towards hot and was hard to shift out of low. Maybe the computer going bad. Do u know if the tipm has to have a hard reset after a new motor is installed.
Hi, Gary. Dodge Magnum 2005 3.5. After engine rebuild my 42 rle stucked in Park. Pink part is not broken. Cable is good. Why i cant shift gears with an iron piece of metal sticks out of my transmission. Mileage is more than 800k miles.
Hey Gary, my 42rle has started leaking very slightly from between the bell and the block, does the valve body have to be removed to replace the pump seal or is it able to be pulled out separately? Also to my knowledge the fluid and filter have never been changed at 132,000 would you recommend changing the filter and just the fluid in the pan or taking it to a trans shop to have them flush the trans with all new fluid? It's my daily and use it for towing.
Valve body does not have to be removed, the transmission has to come out, the pump o-ring is more common to leak then the front seal so if you pull this trans, i would do a front seal and o-ring. If never serviced, i would change filter and fluid.
Greetings Gary good tutorial. I have a dodge ram year 2006 and it helps me fix my transmission. One question: do not you have the second part of this video ??? Or the reassembly of the transmission. Congratulations and thanks again. I already subscribed and I liked the video.
Gary, I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty with a 42RLE transmission that is giving me some problems. It appears that former owner allowed it to overheat as fluid is quite black and has burnt smell. Reverse gear engages (I can feel it) but there is next to no power (only actually reverses on flat level surface, and only at idle). I have worked on every other part of this vehicle, even overhauled the engine, but I have never worked on a transmission. I am thinking of buying a wrecked vehicle at auction and using the trans from that, or possibly attempting to service the transmission that I have. I can likely buy a wreck for $500, and if I fix this Liberty, it'll sell for around $4k. Would fixing the transmission that I have be cost effective? Would you have any advice or insights?
Hi Cory, Fixing the trans could run around 1800.00, the wrecked vehicle you mentioned, look at the fluid see how it is also check the mileage if you can. Servicing the trans will not help
So opening it up and replacing clutch pads and whatnot would not be enough to get it back into working order or something like that? I may have misspoke when I referred to "servicing". For me that is a pretty general term, and I do not know if it has other connotations for others. In my case I meant to replace parts in the transmission that are worn or damaged. When you talk about "Fixing" the transmission for 1800, is that an estimate on parts only or parts and labor? I presume that overheating would not only harm the clutches, but would also affect the bearings and whatnot, so I fully expect that it would be a lot of parts to replace.
With it being hot, the converter would have to be changed, rubber seals, clutch plates and maybe steel plates, with what this is doing more of an overhaul would be in order for this trans. That would be parts and labor, maybe slightly higher if some hard parts are needed but they range from 18 to 2000. are you in the new york area?
Unfortunately no. I am in Hawaii. I was hoping that I could do this myself, but the amount of work involved is making me think it is out of a novices sphere of capability.
Hi Gary, first I wanted to thank you so much for making this video! It was really helpful when I first dropped my valve body to replace the Pressure Transducer Sensor and solenoid. I do have a question though. I recently started getting a hard P0740 code and I was wondering if it is possible that a faulty Solenoid Pack could through this code or if I should look into getting a new Torque Converter. The vehicle is a 2007 Dodge Dakota with the 42RLE and it had the tranny rebuilt about 4yrs ago with around 95,000mi on it, 115,000 mi on the truck now. Thank You and have a great day!
Question for a 42rle in a jeep wrangler. Of the two fluid aux cooler ports on the side of the transmission which one is the supply side to a cooler and which one is the return side ?
Great video, I have a 2003 liberty and I changed the shift solenoid and now it doesn't drive at all, when I dropped the valve body the wires pulled through with the solenoid and got stripped a little and I fixed it but do you think it could be an electrical issue? the shifter is in the rite spot but when I try and drive nothing happens, when I put it in reverse I could hear a little something happening but nothing with the other gears. Thanks
Good evening Gary! I need your help please. I have a problem with my 2009 jeep wrangler jk 3.8l. when I passed P to R there are very loud noises at the automatic gearbox. we have already changed the complete kit but zero results
Great video! Very Educational! I have a 2004 Jeep liberty with the 3.7L and 42RLE transmission. I had a code P0075 "HIGH TEMPERATURE OPERATION ATIVATED" with no CEL or Trans Temp light. This code set after a lot of hilly terrain driving on a 85 degree day and no towing. I bought the Liberty 2 mo ago and it has 111,200 mi on it. The transmission was just swapped by the dealer with a used one with an unknown millage and new fluid and filter installed. I noticed a delay in engaging into 4th gear on a straight away after climbing some hills on a very hot day. I ran my scanner Live Data and found I was running between 214 degrees and 238 degrees fluid temp. on a hot day. I installed a bigger aftermarket cooler in front the AC condenser because the factory OEM was just laying inside the front bumper with restricted air flow for some reason. Since the I repeated my same drive that I made when it got hot and fluid stayed 217 degrees and below, but it was only 72 degrees outside that day. Engine coolant runs about 203-204 degrees once Operating Temp Achieved. Also there is good and strong flow of fluid moving through the cooler lines when I started for a few seconds with cooler lines disconnected. Do you feel the 217 degrees trans fluid temp is acceptable and is my fluid still okay after tripping the high temp code? Is there a better fluid I can run to keep the transmission cooler? I live in a hilly area of PA and I do not ever tow. This transmission is always in a rush to get into 4th gear and is hard to kick down on a hill at times to gain speed. Thank you so much for your time!!!!
Hello, Sorry for late reply, very busy at work, 217 is ok( a tad on the high side but acceptable), if it were getting to 230 or better may trigger a code, good job installing the extra cooler, what you may want to do is run a fully synthetic fluid in the trans, the synthetic fluid does better with heat, engine temp is good, fluid should still be ok. What type of scanner do you have?
Gary Ferraro hey thanks for the reply and information. My scanner is a Altel MaxiDAS DS708. $1,100 one harbor freight sells. Picked it up on CL for $400. I haven't driven it with the cooler on a very hot day yet and the live data up. Wonder why it runs so hot? 217 was the max it got to with the new bigger cooler after climbing bunch of hills on 70's degree day. Fluid still looks pink and smells good after it got hot. Any brand recommendation on fluid for full synthetic? ATF+4 is what it takes. Would a pan drop and refill be sufficient to put synthetic in or take it to somewhere that has a flush machine? Thanks
ok, now that i know you have a good scan tool, i would like for you to look at a couple of things, if you have on the data, TCC slip or TCC slip rpm, let me know what that is, a slipping converter can generate heat. Another thing i would like for you to look at in data are the C.V.I Values(Clutch Volume Index) this shows internal wear, there are 4 values. Overdrive(OD) Underdrive(UD Low/reverse(LR) 2-4 Clutch. The valves will have a number next to it, if you get a chance, i would like to know the values, this wil give me an idea how the trans is internally .
Gary Ferraro awesome! When I get home tomorrow, I'll hook it up and take a look. When would I be looking at this data? While driving? Sitting in park and cold or warmed up. I also have a driveline vibration when driving down the road more when accelerating than coasting. All the u-joints seam okay. I replaced the rear axle seals and pinion seal and put new mobile one 75 90 with LS additive because the rear ended was shuttering when accelerating into a turn. That since has gone away with the right fluid in there. Fluid may have been old or incorrect for limited slip. Maybe I'll try and make a RUclips video of the dada on the scan tool so you can see. The data scare me because I don't know what I'm looking at lol. Thanks again!!!
The C.V.I value you can just get sitting in park with key on engine off, if you have TCC slip rpm, that would have to look at while driving, car must be in lock-up so you may have to to 40mph or more. Some scanners may not show this information, not sure if your does or not, good scanner though
Amazing video! Very in depth! Question.. I have 2002 grand Cherokee, whines when accelerating in 1stgear and 1st only. To me seems sluggish and gets horrid gas mileage. Sound like a pump issue? Also seldomly stalls in reverse like your driving a manual and not pushing in clutch when stopping.. Any ideas?
Gary- I have a question regarding my 1996 Grand Cherokee 5.2, SOMETIMES upshifting at a higher RPM than usual, even during easy driving once in a while instead of shifting at about 2000 rpm it will hang a bit and then shift at about 3000. I see there are a few [2] 'governors' inside the pan, would you feel its governor related? Transmission been VERY well cared for, I had it for 10 years and change the trans. fluid about every year even thought it sits nearly all the time, always use Mopar fluid, filter and gasket, last time change I replaced the pan due to some rust, I never see any 'shavings' in the pan and it doesn't slip, etc. Overdrive engages or disengages with the dash switch perfectly. Thanks for any advice you can give me and should I use genuine Mopar parts or would ebay quality be ok?
I would go with mopar parts, Do yu have access to a scan tool that shows live data, thats how you have to check the govenor sensors, they have a high failure rate
Will do Gary that's why I asked, sometimes aftermarket are a bit different and to save a few bucks might not be worth it, especially when dropping the trans. pan is involved. No I don't have access to a scan tool but judging by other people who have replaced I feel confident replacing will cure it. Symptoms are exactly the same as what other people were experiencing and factoring in the age and that's everything is original, I will go to the dealer tomorrow for some TC fluid and while there order them along with filter and factory gasket, been about a year since I changed anyway. 6 quarts of Mopar fluid, filter and gasket is about 100.00 and probably about 150.00 for the other 2 pieces and I also will get a new gasket behind the body that houses them as I see a youtuber ripped his while removing then had to order a new one. I guess with 148,000 miles and 22 years old I cant complain and its sure cheaper than a rebuilt trans. You're a very good mechanic, I hope you pass your knowledge on to someone coming into the trade instead of a person who spray paints a trans. and maybe replaces a few things then sells it on ebay as reconditioned and its a POS, I watch some guy who rebuilds manual trans. and he sees that junk all the time and gets tons of business from such units.
Hi Gary, maybe you can get me on the right track here. I have a 2005 chrysler 300 3.5 v6 touring. has the 42rle transmission. Im getting code p0870 then recently also getting code p0700. it says p0870 is the transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch circuit c and p0700 is a generic code for trans having a problem from tcm to pcm. the car will only stay in go as high as 2nd gear and is in limp mode, but some times when i start the car is works normal. majority of the time its in limp mode. I cant find any info on this and am not sure if I need to pull the motor to get the trans out on this year and model to fix this. there is like very little info Ive found. Is the tfps circuit c attached to the valve body inside on the 2005 model or is it outside? if inside, all i need is to drop the valve body to fix this issue? the car just need 2 more years out of it and I heard rumors in forums that the engine needs pulled to work on the trans. I am tempted to cut the support bar that is in the way of the trans pan then welding it back on after its fixed. any help would be greatly appreciated on this.
Hi Gary, thank you so much for the work done and for the video. Where I live there are no masters in such gearboxes, I took a used box, it turned out that when I pressed the pedal to the floor, instead of kicking down the car, on the contrary, it braked and did not go. After that same day, she stopped switching from second to third gear, it gave an error p1790, p0700 and p0733. I replaced the repair kit for the solenoid block and did the cleaning of the valve body according to your video, also changed the oil, cleaned the filter, but nothing changed, also after the second gear, the speed rises and throws off to the second. Please help me. I saw you advised to change the friction discs, what should I do, how else to check which one to change. Thank you in advance Chrysler 300c
@@sergeibmw888 ok, under transmission data, there is C.V.I (clutch Volume Index) This shows wear on the clutch pack represented by a number, i would like to know what these numbers are
@@GaryFerraro Okay, Gary, thank you, I contacted the diagnostician, will I go to him, what are these indices, should I count under all transfers, or only under 3 transfers? According to me, I’ll take a picture and show you.
@@GaryFerraro its on a slight hill currently so it will roll down in neutral. I can here the normal electric sound of engaging in reverse but zero movement, like it wants to catch but cant. It seems that drive, 1st, 2nd will work but I dont want to test it tonight as I possibly might block my neighbors ability to access his road. The fluid level is good if not slightly over. I unplugged the battery for 2hrs and read the codes again & now I am getting random transmisson control module internal failures: 38 wheel speed error 73 inoperable watchdog inhibit 72 ROM incident 71 RAM incident
Hello Gary, thumbs up for your video series. Got a question for you, upon disassembly of a Jeep Wrangler JK 010 42RLE i noticed that the steels on the 2-4 clutch pack close to the pressure plate towards the low reverse clutch back have a irregular wear pattern with some raised spots while surrounding areas are slightly worn back however the friction plates that contact those worn steels do not look damaged or worn badly. What could be the root cause of the irregular wear patterns on those steels? Note the raised spots are usually small elongated areas with varying sizes and shape variations that are visibly different in coloration.
I wouldn't say burned its a difference in surface roughness like these spots are hard inclusions in the steel that are more shiny than the surrounding worn back areas
Might not be today but will send you a pic as soon as I can. btw was planning to install a master rebuild kit install anyways but am curious about the possible root cause for this. And aside from that Merry X-mas to you and family
Hello Gary got a jeep tj 42rle doesn't run over 30ish. Doesn't shift past 2nd in 2wd but in 4 low will shift 3rd and od still just max speed 30ish. No check engine no codes. Any ideas? torque converter? Full rebuild?
If you have access to a scan tool, i would like to see if 3rd is being commanded, if it is, something internal to the trans. Also, under transmission data(scan tool) you will see CVI(clutch volume index) would like to know those numbers as well
Please Read and Respond!!! What would cause this particular transmission when you are move to drop out of gear( it will just rev.) And u must wait until it grabs again? Reving it doesnt help nor shifting it in and out of D R P or N. Thank You for your videos!!
03 jeep liberty 4x4 3.7l. It does it sporadically. I never goes but a block or 2 before it does it. Once it does it its over and over. The wierd thing was when we changed filter and half the fluid i drove it about 15mi without a glitch but the next day it began the same symptoms. Thanks for replying!!
Hi I have a 2009 jk with this transmission. The issue I am having is it will goes into neutral and engine will revs out especially on a steap hill when hot, any suggestions will be helpful. Also I am getting a lost of prime dtc. Thanks
So my 2011 JKU with the 42RLE lost reverse (goes into reverse but just revs) and it's also throwing two codes P0734 and P0732. I'm looking to rebuild it at this point. I see a few "Master rebuild kits" on the internet and wanted to know which rebuild kit would best serve me in rebuilding this transmission? My 42RLE has 152,000 miles on it and I'm now running 37" tires as of 6 months ago. I'm also going to regear the front and rear axles to match the 37" tires while I'm rebuilding the transmission. I need a good complete 42RLE "Master Rebuild Kit" and any other parts you'd recommend to go with the rebuild kit if needed...any help on this would be great. Thanks.
@@GaryFerraro it seems to downshift into a lower gear at 50mph simply by taking my foot off the gas as if I'm braking and the rpms stay the same. At 50mph getting it home it seemed to bog down starting off from 1st going into 2nd. It felt more like it went from 2nd into 4th skipping over 1st and 3rd gear starting off getting it up to 50mph. It does drive forward in "D" drive though. I haven't tried manual shifting it while driving it though. Reverse is none existing like it's in neutral and in Neutral it wants to drive forward as if I'm in D drive. Also it broke the plastic retaining clip for the shifter cable at the transfer case. At first I thought it was just a broken tranny cable. The transmission is definitely not shifting correctly through the gears when driving forward though. I was hoping it was a stretched cable which would not put me in the correct shifting position (R reverse, N neutral and D drive) making it seem as if the tranny was off gear while driving. I guess I could try simply replacing the cable before diving into a tranny rebuild. The cable does match up with the shift lever and the shift lever on the tranny lever when going through all the shifter positions. It does manually shift into each position also P, R, N, D, 2, 1. It positively "clicks" into each position sitting still if that helps also...
@@GaryFerraro it is the transfer case cable clip that broke. Tranny cable is is just fine and manually shifts through all the positions with good positive "clicks". Transfer case cable clip that hold the cable onto the ball end of the transfer case lever is broken but it's still shifts through 2H, N, 4H but won't quite go into 4L due to the slop without the bushing/clip in place to hold the cable on. I don't think that would affect the drive gears and reverse in the tranny though...
@@GaryFerraro we do plan on doing a rebuild on it. My son wants to learn how to do it himself with my help. We rebuilt the tranny in our 2012 Suburban ourselves after 230,000 miles when a solenoid went out in the Transmission Control Modual causing a domino effect for other things to go wrong. After days and days of research, the 42RLE tranny in his 2011 Jeep JKU seems like a tranny with notorious issues concerning others loosing the reverse gears also. We are going to install 5:13 gears in the front and rear axles to run the new 37" mud tires on it now. Since the tranny seems to be the weakest part of the JKU he wants to do it himself. At 19 years old he loves working on his own vehicles. We are currently doing a frame off restoration on his first vehicle a 1979 Jeep CJ7. Since we've never rebuilt a 42RLE tranny we weren't sure if there was one better "master rebuild kit" over another for the $300ish we see them for. Given the issues we are having with it, are there other parts you'd recommend replacing that these Master Rebuild kits don't come with while we have it out and cracked open to rebuild? We'd hate to think other parts not provided in a rebuild kit should have been replaced while we had it out. Any suggestions on other parts to replace while we are at it would help. With 152,000 miles on it, the 37" tires we put on it seemed to to be too much for it with the stock axle gearing. Changing to 5:13 axle gears should help the tranny not have to work so hard to turn the big tires. Thanks again for your input...
Hello Mr. Ferraro, my 2008 Chrysler 300 2.7L. I tow it with the rear wheels on the ground, an my output shaft speed sensor was replace an it looked very chew up on the end, I replace it again an the same thing happen. What do you think could cause it, an what can I do to correct it.
Hi Gary, i have a 2010 jeep jk rubicon with the 42rle transmission. It was throwing a code p0733 and not shifting into 3rd but i could manually shift from 1st and 2nd as long as it didn't go into limp mode. I replaced the shift pack, filter and now it keeps giving me code p1790, still doesn't shift to 3rd. Any suggestions? Also it did this about 2 months ago but when i turned it off and back on it started working fine until now.
sounds like there is an issue with the overdrive clutch(this gets applied in 3rd). To know for sure you would need a scan tool and look at C.V.I data for the overdrive clutch. The C.V.I show internal wear on the clutch through a number the range is 75 to 125 , if its higher than 125 the clutch is worn out
Hi Gary, thanks for the video. I have a 2004 jeep wrangler. The transmission slips when shifting in to 3rd and never catches 3rd gear. It then throws code P0733 (Gear 3 Incorrect ratio) and goes in to limp mode. Any chance this is electrical or do i need to open it up?
Thanks for the response. I don't have any scan tools that would give active data but I've rebuilt a few overdrive transmissions. I know its not the correct way but I'm going to try and get away with just replacing the overdrive clutches and not rebuilding the entire transmission and put off a full rebuild for later. Can I pull the overdrive clutch on this transmission without pulling out the valve body? Also the jeep drives fine in 1st and 2nd gear, Is it safe to say the torque converter isn't causing any problems?
@@brianmason6218 Yes the drum can come out with out taking the valvebody off. The O/D clutch is the middle set of clutches, make sure no snap rings are broken
@@GaryFerraro me pasó lo mismo en KK 2009 Liberty, no arroja ningún código y todas las demás velocidades funcionan muy bien, se me desconectó la reversa despues de intentar estacionarme en una leve subida, retrocediendo en 4WD y no pude, luego me fui a estacionar en un lugar plano y al volver ya no me retrocedía el jeep. ¿que podría ser lo que está fallando?
@@GaryFerraro It has no reverse gear and it does not throw any codes and all other speeds work very well, my reverse gear was disengaged after trying to park on a slight hill, backing up in 4WD and I couldn't, then I went to park in a flat place and When I returned, the jeep would no longer back up. What could be that is failing?
Hi i have a 2006 dodge dakota 2wd with a 42rle when i put it in gear it blows transmission fluid out right above the the sensor on the back left side what could it be
Hey Gary, i have a 2007 Dodge Nitro 3.7 4X4 with 210,000 miles. Along with rough engagement into reverse, it also shifts roughly into 3rd gear and it makes a audible bang from underneath the car. Normally it does this for maybe a day and then it will go months before happening again. but just recently its been doing it more frequently than before and has not stopped, what do you think is causing this? I'm afraid if i continue driving it may cause more damage.
I do have a bluetooth OB2 reader for my phone but i dont know if it will display the info that you are talking about . I believe the porblem is computer related rather than a mechanical problem because i reset the computer to stock with my Hyper tech Programmer then back into performance mode and now it seems to be shifting fine.
Gary, I have a 2007 Jeep Wrangler with this transmission and I recently got into limp mode. The codes P0884 along with P0934 and P1745 all appear. I got the counter reset which made the P1745 go away thus temporarily fixing my limp mode, but it has returned. Do you have any experience or advice you'd like to share? I don't trust any of my "transmission specialists" in town and don't want to take it to the stealership. Thanks!
With the codes this has, it should have the VLP sensors, they are in a separate harness, about 5 or 6 wires, if you look at the connector pin #2 may be a green wire, this wire is the voltage supply for the solenoid, should be 5 volts on it, i would check that first
Hey Gary I have a question for you I have a 2009 Chrysler 300 3.5 and I'm getting these codes and i wanna see if you would know what i have to replace the codes are p0935 and p1745
The P0935 is saying the line pressure is to high for too long. The P1745 is just a counter within the computer, it may have had this issue for a while. Question, if you clear the codes, how fast do they come back?
Gary Ferraro well the first time I did it. it was good for like 2 months and than I tried to do it yesterday and it came back on like right after 2nd gear. so i don't know wat what to buy or change
Ok, so this seems like a hard code, changing out the solenoid in the valvebody may or may not work, i've seen wiring issues, fuse box issues, solenoid problems, would need some diagnosing to figure out. The code means the line pressure is high for too long. Are you familiar with dropping the valvebody?
Not really buddy but I jus took it to a machnic cuz I really don't have time to mess around with it but I saw a video on the same codes and he fixes the issue but I can't understand the video cuz it's in Arabic language
Hi Gary Im rebuilding a 42rle just like this one and it was overheating on long trips after one hour draving could it be a TCC problem or is there any other issue with these transmissions causing overheating problem? any ideas I would be thakfull by rhe way greatings and keep up doing the good job.
hello, Tcc is the first thing that comes to mind, also those pumps dont really put out alot of volume, i normally switch out the body and gears and with a 604 body and gears
I have a dodge Dakota 05 4x4. I think this is the trans for my truck. However they dont look like it. Can you help me ID it if possible. Also I have been starting to set up little shop for doing my trans and motor rebuilds. Small 16c16 barn stile. Main floor shop second floor parts and storage. Just tell o can get my shop built 35x35
I came across your video a good one. question.. dodge nitro 2007 4wd, 99,000 miles, 42rle remark 606, suddenly reverse gear doesn't work, all other gear work fine. got a couple of codes... diagnostic from the dealer reads. trans does not go into reverse code PCM P07210 shaft speed sensor circuit performance and PCM P1790 fault immediately after shift are active. what's your opinion please. help ..please
it happens suddenly no warning, no noises, no slipping, I went out and past the street where I have to made a turn, put that in reverse work fine when I got to my destination and try to parked it suddenly didn't work. no engine light came on either them took it to the dealer they gave me those codes. i don't abused of my car neither treating it rough I'm very smooth..
Hi Gary, I'm hoping you can help me. I have a Jeep Liberty 2010 6 cylinder 3.6 liter and the code coming up is PO868, I took it to a trans repair guy who said to change the filter & re-use the oil so it doesn't shock the trans. My friend did that but CK Engine light still on. I have a registration due on 7/8 & I can't pass emissions test (in CT) due to this code that keeps coming up. The transmission repair guy said next step is a brand new transmission or a rebuilt one that he can help me find. Do you think that is the situation, is there no in-between fix? It seems it's either all or nothing. Not sure if I should look for a new car, the Jeep has 240k on it, body is in great shape. Oh, one other thing, he said the clunking I get from time to time (esp when going uphill) is called a "clutch squawk" I'm really desperate for advice, I just don't have the $ right now to fix the transmission :( thanks so much in advance!
Ok, first this code means that your line pressure is too low, around 2006 they added line pressure solenoid to basically lower line pressure at an idle. These solenoids work on a 5 volt reference. If you clear the code how fast does it come back? right away? A bad or restricted filter can cause this code, usually a restricted filter will make a noise and the car would stop moving when hot, also the solenoid itself could be bad, but the question is how fast does the code come back once cleared, if it comes back right away you may have an electrical problem with the trans
Hi Gary! The code doesn't come back right away, as a matter of fact, I drove almost four hundred miles before the code triggered. The very last time which was yesterday, the code back after only after about 150 miles. The trans guy I took it to last week said the pressure sensor was good (I saw on youtube someone mentioned it could b pressure sens related so that's why I asked about that) called the trans guy today and he said to put in a new or rebuilt transmission. Would love to know more about the solenoids, any way to fix that without a total trans rebuild? thanks so much!!!
I can send some information to you, my e-mail address is gsferraro@yahoo.com If you like e-mail me and i can send you info on the code and the solenoids. If the code comes back after 150 miles, you could probably get this inspected before the check engine light comes on. Also, not sure how this guy knows the pressure sensor is good? maybe he is assuming it is. Since the code comes back after 150 miles or so, may not be electrical. How does the car upshift?
the trans guy took the car, alone, for about 30 minutes, he had his sensor hooked to the car as he was driving, he returned and said pressure sensor was good. I'll send you an email now, Id really appreciate any info you have. thanks again.
Gary i have a 42rle new out of a 2005 dodge charger, I also have my 2005 dodge durango transmission, how hard is it to remove the tail shaft and put my durango tail shaft on it to match my drive line.
That is a pain in the neck, big time. Sometimes it takes me 30 to 40 minutes. I just bought a tool from Adapt-A-Case, specially for that shaft, i havent used it yet. You will need a slide hammer.
the reason i ask is i can buy the new trans for $798.00 for dodge charger, and my trans in my durango have 2 different tail shafts, or is it easier to rebuild the trans i have in the durango
hello I watched your video very nice. 2004 model cherooke 3.7 lt car reverse gear does not move when I get. but the forward gears are fine. why could it be ?
Gary Ferraro no not moving in neutral. everything is normal. it just doesn't move in reverse! When switching to position R, there is a slight sound, like a hijacking sound.
Took my 4r2rle to a trans shop because when I tae off with it cold and go easy on the gas it shifts very harsh almost like a down shift. other then that it is fine. they tested it with the computer and said the trans is trashed and has broken snap rings and is showing a temp of 1100 degrees. I'm not stupid, that trans would have melted at 1000 lol. I think its the temp sensor for the fluid? Would do you recommend?
Hi Gary,Great video im in libya I have a 2005 Jeep liberty 4*4 with the 3.7L limted and 42RLE transmission American specific it has 155,000 mi on it. I had a code P0755 2C Solenoid Circuit Malfunction - Shift Solenoid B Malfunction . i am never change the oil and filter for transmission from i have it 5 y ago when i drive it for 80 km (50 mi) i hear very little knock in gear change ..now from year ago after i drive it for 10 minutes it go to limp mode .i think in 2nd gear >>>What can you help me with? Do I change the solenoid or oil and filter in the first And see what happens...Thank a lot.
with that code, it could be the pack, also converter or even pump bushing, i would try the pack first since it would be changed anyway for this code. gary
segundo día gary mira estoy reconstruyendo una trasmicion de una dakota 2005 mi pregunta es cuantos discos de pasta lleva te agradecería mucho tu respuesta
Gary Ferraro Nothing has happened yet I have put in at least 6000 miles on the one that I have now but reading all the issues that this transmission has it’s bound to break sometime.
AGAIN YOU GUYS PUT THESE AWESOME VIDEOS UP SHOWING IN STRONG DETAIL WHATS GOING ON INSIDE THE CASE.I'M GOING TO CHANGE OUT A SOLENOID PACK AND I APPRECIATE THE INFO YOU HAVE PROVIDED. CHRYSLER HAS MADE EVERYTHING SO YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TOO THE DEALER TO CHECK THE FLUID LEVELS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING. THANKS FOR THE HELP FRIEND!!!
@@michaelhenry550 ok, so this code is 2-4 solenoid circuit, first thing to do is ohm the solenoid at the computer, the solenoids ohm out at around 2.0 ohms.
Ugh this Transmission is so problematic and difficult to tolerate its messed up flaws, breaks down easily, ain't worth a scat been so HIGH maintenance and not in a GOOD way no wonder Chrysler DROPPED the Dakota truck and has no plans of bringing it back the way Chevy or Ford did on their midsize trucks if anything the whole line of Chrysler itself is kind of shabby, I knew I should of gone with a Tacoma or Frontier...
26 people don't like someone showing the craft, this is a highly complicated task, i kept wondering when he would remove another snap ring, jesus it was endless. I have the same tranny, 120,000 jeep liberty never been to a mechanic, I take care of everything. going to change the fluid, I wanted to understand how it works, what components were in my tranny, and you should too because knowledge is power, I dont know where he is tossing those bolts he removes, but I am certain he has his own system and it works for him, he is obviously detailed and brilliant, I admire that. Nice job Gary.
Thank you sir, i throw all the bolts into a basket for cleaning, then lay everything out when starting the rebuild
@@GaryFerraro have you done a video on what the components, selenoid, etc on the valve body do?
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME. READING THE COMMENTS AND WATCHING THE VALVE BODY REBUILD VIDEO FOR THE 42RLE ANSWER EVERY QUESTION I HAVE HAD SO FAR SUCH AS.... HOW AND WHERE TO OHM OUT THE SOLENOID PACK DOWN TOO HAVING IT SET IN LOW TO DROP THE VALVE BODY. THIS TEAR DOWN VIDEO IS TOP NOTCH !!! YOU GARY SHOULD BE AN INSTRUCTOR. YOU ARE A SUPER GUY PUTTING ALL THIS VALUABLE INFO OUT HERE FOR US TOO GAIN FROM. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE. I WISH YOU HAD A SHOP NEAR ATLANTA BECAUSE I'D BRING MY 42RLE THERE TO HAVE IT REBUILT JUST SO I COULD GET THE HANDS ON PART OF GAINING THE KNOWLEDGE YOU HAVE SHOWED ME SO FAR!! DO YOU HAVE A 42RLE REBUILT THAT YOU SELL OUT OF YOUR SHOP? IF THE SOLENOID PACK CHANGE DON'T WORK I MAY HAVE TO HAVE MINE REBUILT. DO YOU HAVE ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A SHOP IN THE ATLANTA AREA IF YOU DON'T HAVE A REBUILT ON HAND?
This code is a straight up electrical code, which means it's either the solenoid, computer or something in the wiring.
I cleared the code Gary and it's driving okay for now. So it's okay to believe it will happen again soon. So do the solenoid pack.
@@michaelhenry550 i would ohm the solenoid first to confirm, this is electrical code, could be solenoid, computer or wiring issue
@@GaryFerraro I cleared the code. Drive okay 5 miles. Turned it off and drive again. The temp gauge started moving towards hot and was hard to shift out of low. Maybe the computer going bad. Do u know if the tipm has to have a hard reset after a new motor is installed.
This is such an awesome tutorial. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Hi, Gary. Dodge Magnum 2005 3.5. After engine rebuild my 42 rle stucked in Park. Pink part is not broken. Cable is good. Why i cant shift gears with an iron piece of metal sticks out of my transmission. Mileage is more than 800k miles.
Did you disconnect the cable at the trans to see if the linkage moves freely inside the trans
Parabéns pelo vídeo!!! Mostre como regular a alavanca do câmbio automático da Dodge Dakota
if you mean the linkage piece that bolts on the outside? if so, there is no adjustment
Absolutely mind-boggling what goes into a transmission.. I got a 2010 Chrysler 300 with a 42rle.. I guess there's good and bad in a 4-speed..
Just finished a 42RLE today, had a converter problem. Thanks for watching Jeff
Hey Gary, my 42rle has started leaking very slightly from between the bell and the block, does the valve body have to be removed to replace the pump seal or is it able to be pulled out separately? Also to my knowledge the fluid and filter have never been changed at 132,000 would you recommend changing the filter and just the fluid in the pan or taking it to a trans shop to have them flush the trans with all new fluid? It's my daily and use it for towing.
Valve body does not have to be removed, the transmission has to come out, the pump o-ring is more common to leak then the front seal so if you pull this trans, i would do a front seal and o-ring. If never serviced, i would change filter and fluid.
Greetings Gary good tutorial. I have a dodge ram year 2006 and it helps me fix my transmission. One question: do not you have the second part of this video ??? Or the reassembly of the transmission. Congratulations and thanks again. I already subscribed and I liked the video.
Im sorry, at this time i do not, i will keep that in mind.
Gary, I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty with a 42RLE transmission that is giving me some problems. It appears that former owner allowed it to overheat as fluid is quite black and has burnt smell. Reverse gear engages (I can feel it) but there is next to no power (only actually reverses on flat level surface, and only at idle). I have worked on every other part of this vehicle, even overhauled the engine, but I have never worked on a transmission. I am thinking of buying a wrecked vehicle at auction and using the trans from that, or possibly attempting to service the transmission that I have. I can likely buy a wreck for $500, and if I fix this Liberty, it'll sell for around $4k. Would fixing the transmission that I have be cost effective? Would you have any advice or insights?
Hi Cory,
Fixing the trans could run around 1800.00, the wrecked vehicle you mentioned, look at the fluid see how it is also check the mileage if you can. Servicing the trans will not help
So opening it up and replacing clutch pads and whatnot would not be enough to get it back into working order or something like that? I may have misspoke when I referred to "servicing". For me that is a pretty general term, and I do not know if it has other connotations for others. In my case I meant to replace parts in the transmission that are worn or damaged.
When you talk about "Fixing" the transmission for 1800, is that an estimate on parts only or parts and labor? I presume that overheating would not only harm the clutches, but would also affect the bearings and whatnot, so I fully expect that it would be a lot of parts to replace.
With it being hot, the converter would have to be changed, rubber seals, clutch plates and maybe steel plates, with what this is doing more of an overhaul would be in order for this trans. That would be parts and labor, maybe slightly higher if some hard parts are needed but they range from 18 to 2000. are you in the new york area?
Unfortunately no. I am in Hawaii. I was hoping that I could do this myself, but the amount of work involved is making me think it is out of a novices sphere of capability.
used trans may work, just check fluid condition and possible mileage, used the converter too
Just wondering what a reasonable cost would be to rebuild as you are doing in the video. Not replacing the case.
depends on whats wrong, what year is the car
@@GaryFerraro2009 Jeep Liberty 3.7 4X4
Found two small pieces of , I believe snap ring in transmission pan. Attached to magnet plus what appears to be gunky metal shavings. 😢
Can you send me pictures
gsferraro@yahoo.com.
@@TopDOGEGALogistics
Hi Gary, first I wanted to thank you so much for making this video! It was really helpful when I first dropped my valve body to replace the Pressure Transducer Sensor and solenoid. I do have a question though. I recently started getting a hard P0740 code and I was wondering if it is possible that a faulty Solenoid Pack could through this code or if I should look into getting a new Torque Converter. The vehicle is a 2007 Dodge Dakota with the 42RLE and it had the tranny rebuilt about 4yrs ago with around 95,000mi on it, 115,000 mi on the truck now. Thank You and have a great day!
Question for a 42rle in a jeep wrangler. Of the two fluid aux cooler ports on the side of the transmission which one is the supply side to a cooler and which one is the return side ?
Usually the rear line is the return line
Great video, I have a 2003 liberty and I changed the shift solenoid and now it doesn't drive at all, when I dropped the valve body the wires pulled through with the solenoid and got stripped a little and I fixed it but do you think it could be an electrical issue? the shifter is in the rite spot but when I try and drive nothing happens, when I put it in reverse I could hear a little something happening but nothing with the other gears.
Thanks
Do you have any codes for the transmission?, need to scan the car, this may give some direction
Good evening Gary! I need your help please. I have a problem with my 2009 jeep wrangler jk 3.8l. when I passed P to R there are very loud noises at the automatic gearbox. we have already changed the complete kit but zero results
Great video! Very Educational! I have a 2004 Jeep liberty with the 3.7L and 42RLE transmission. I had a code P0075 "HIGH TEMPERATURE OPERATION ATIVATED" with no CEL or Trans Temp light. This code set after a lot of hilly terrain driving on a 85 degree day and no towing. I bought the Liberty 2 mo ago and it has 111,200 mi on it. The transmission was just swapped by the dealer with a used one with an unknown millage and new fluid and filter installed. I noticed a delay in engaging into 4th gear on a straight away after climbing some hills on a very hot day. I ran my scanner Live Data and found I was running between 214 degrees and 238 degrees fluid temp. on a hot day. I installed a bigger aftermarket cooler in front the AC condenser because the factory OEM was just laying inside the front bumper with restricted air flow for some reason. Since the I repeated my same drive that I made when it got hot and fluid stayed 217 degrees and below, but it was only 72 degrees outside that day. Engine coolant runs about 203-204 degrees once Operating Temp Achieved. Also there is good and strong flow of fluid moving through the cooler lines when I started for a few seconds with cooler lines disconnected. Do you feel the 217 degrees trans fluid temp is acceptable and is my fluid still okay after tripping the high temp code? Is there a better fluid I can run to keep the transmission cooler? I live in a hilly area of PA and I do not ever tow. This transmission is always in a rush to get into 4th gear and is hard to kick down on a hill at times to gain speed. Thank you so much for your time!!!!
Hello,
Sorry for late reply, very busy at work, 217 is ok( a tad on the high side but acceptable), if it were getting to 230 or better may trigger a code, good job installing the extra cooler, what you may want to do is run a fully synthetic fluid in the trans, the synthetic fluid does better with heat, engine temp is good, fluid should still be ok. What type of scanner do you have?
Gary Ferraro hey thanks for the reply and information. My scanner is a Altel MaxiDAS DS708. $1,100 one harbor freight sells. Picked it up on CL for $400. I haven't driven it with the cooler on a very hot day yet and the live data up. Wonder why it runs so hot? 217 was the max it got to with the new bigger cooler after climbing bunch of hills on 70's degree day. Fluid still looks pink and smells good after it got hot. Any brand recommendation on fluid for full synthetic? ATF+4 is what it takes. Would a pan drop and refill be sufficient to put synthetic in or take it to somewhere that has a flush machine? Thanks
ok, now that i know you have a good scan tool, i would like for you to look at a couple of things, if you have on the data, TCC slip or TCC slip rpm, let me know what that is, a slipping converter can generate heat. Another thing i would like for you to look at in data are the C.V.I Values(Clutch Volume Index) this shows internal wear, there are 4 values.
Overdrive(OD)
Underdrive(UD
Low/reverse(LR)
2-4 Clutch.
The valves will have a number next to it, if you get a chance, i would like to know the values, this wil give me an idea how the trans is internally .
Gary Ferraro awesome! When I get home tomorrow, I'll hook it up and take a look. When would I be looking at this data? While driving? Sitting in park and cold or warmed up. I also have a driveline vibration when driving down the road more when accelerating than coasting. All the u-joints seam okay. I replaced the rear axle seals and pinion seal and put new mobile one 75 90 with LS additive because the rear ended was shuttering when accelerating into a turn. That since has gone away with the right fluid in there. Fluid may have been old or incorrect for limited slip. Maybe I'll try and make a RUclips video of the dada on the scan tool so you can see. The data scare me because I don't know what I'm looking at lol. Thanks again!!!
The C.V.I value you can just get sitting in park with key on engine off, if you have TCC slip rpm, that would have to look at while driving, car must be in lock-up so you may have to to 40mph or more. Some scanners may not show this information, not sure if your does or not, good scanner though
Amazing video! Very in depth! Question.. I have 2002 grand Cherokee, whines when accelerating in 1stgear and 1st only. To me seems sluggish and gets horrid gas mileage. Sound like a pump issue? Also seldomly stalls in reverse like your driving a manual and not pushing in clutch when stopping.. Any ideas?
Do you hear a noise in drive and reverse standing still with foot on brake that goes away when shifted to neutral or park?
Gary- I have a question regarding my 1996 Grand Cherokee 5.2, SOMETIMES upshifting at a higher RPM than usual, even during easy driving once in a while instead of shifting at about 2000 rpm it will hang a bit and then shift at about 3000. I see there are a few [2] 'governors' inside the pan, would you feel its governor related? Transmission been VERY well cared for, I had it for 10 years and change the trans. fluid about every year even thought it sits nearly all the time, always use Mopar fluid, filter and gasket, last time change I replaced the pan due to some rust, I never see any 'shavings' in the pan and it doesn't slip, etc. Overdrive engages or disengages with the dash switch perfectly.
Thanks for any advice you can give me and should I use genuine Mopar parts or would ebay quality be ok?
I would go with mopar parts, Do yu have access to a scan tool that shows live data, thats how you have to check the govenor sensors, they have a high failure rate
Will do Gary that's why I asked, sometimes aftermarket are a bit different and to save a few bucks might not be worth it, especially when dropping the trans. pan is involved. No I don't have access to a scan tool but judging by other people who have replaced I feel confident replacing will cure it. Symptoms are exactly the same as what other people were experiencing and factoring in the age and that's everything is original, I will go to the dealer tomorrow for some TC fluid and while there order them along with filter and factory gasket, been about a year since I changed anyway. 6 quarts of Mopar fluid, filter and gasket is about 100.00 and probably about 150.00 for the other 2 pieces and I also will get a new gasket behind the body that houses them as I see a youtuber ripped his while removing then had to order a new one.
I guess with 148,000 miles and 22 years old I cant complain and its sure cheaper than a rebuilt trans.
You're a very good mechanic, I hope you pass your knowledge on to someone coming into the trade instead of a person who spray paints a trans. and maybe replaces a few things then sells it on ebay as reconditioned and its a POS, I watch some guy who rebuilds manual trans. and he sees that junk all the time and gets tons of business from such units.
Thank you, keep me updated on how it goes.
Hi Gary, maybe you can get me on the right track here. I have a 2005 chrysler 300 3.5 v6 touring. has the 42rle transmission. Im getting code p0870 then recently also getting code p0700. it says p0870 is the transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch circuit c and p0700 is a generic code for trans having a problem from tcm to pcm. the car will only stay in go as high as 2nd gear and is in limp mode, but some times when i start the car is works normal. majority of the time its in limp mode. I cant find any info on this and am not sure if I need to pull the motor to get the trans out on this year and model to fix this. there is like very little info Ive found. Is the tfps circuit c attached to the valve body inside on the 2005 model or is it outside? if inside, all i need is to drop the valve body to fix this issue? the car just need 2 more years out of it and I heard rumors in forums that the engine needs pulled to work on the trans. I am tempted to cut the support bar that is in the way of the trans pan then welding it back on after its fixed. any help would be greatly appreciated on this.
If you clear the code, does it come right back?
@@GaryFerraro yeah it comes right back within a minute
@@TheReptile961 Do you have a scanner that shows live data?
@@GaryFerraro yes I do
Hi Gary, thank you so much for the work done and for the video. Where I live there are no masters in such gearboxes, I took a used box, it turned out that when I pressed the pedal to the floor, instead of kicking down the car, on the contrary, it braked and did not go. After that same day, she stopped switching from second to third gear, it gave an error p1790, p0700 and p0733. I replaced the repair kit for the solenoid block and did the cleaning of the valve body according to your video, also changed the oil, cleaned the filter, but nothing changed, also after the second gear, the speed rises and throws off to the second. Please help me. I saw you advised to change the friction discs, what should I do, how else to check which one to change. Thank you in advance
Chrysler 300c
Do you have access to a scanner like a snap-on or autel?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for your answer, Gary, I just checked with the diagnostician, the scanner -Autel maxisys ms906Bt
@@sergeibmw888 ok, under transmission data, there is C.V.I (clutch Volume Index) This shows wear on the clutch pack represented by a number, i would like to know what these numbers are
@@GaryFerraro Okay, Gary, thank you, I contacted the diagnostician, will I go to him, what are these indices, should I count under all transfers, or only under 3 transfers?
According to me, I’ll take a picture and show you.
@@sergeibmw888 By the number, i can see how worn the clutch packs are, if your having a problem in 3rd, the overdrive clutch pack gets applied in 3rd
Jeep 4.0 42rle code P0736 & P0700. Wont go in reverse. Is it rebuild time?
Yes, does it move forward in neutral by chance?
@@GaryFerraro its on a slight hill currently so it will roll down in neutral.
I can here the normal electric sound of engaging in reverse but zero movement, like it wants to catch but cant. It seems that drive, 1st, 2nd will work but I dont want to test it tonight as I possibly might block my neighbors ability to access his road. The fluid level is good if not slightly over. I unplugged the battery for 2hrs and read the codes again & now I am getting random transmisson control module internal failures:
38 wheel speed error
73 inoperable watchdog inhibit
72 ROM incident
71 RAM incident
Hello Gary, thumbs up for your video series. Got a question for you, upon disassembly of a Jeep Wrangler JK 010 42RLE i noticed that the steels on the 2-4 clutch pack close to the pressure plate towards the low reverse clutch back have a irregular wear pattern with some raised spots while surrounding areas are slightly worn back however the friction plates that contact those worn steels do not look damaged or worn badly. What could be the root cause of the irregular wear patterns on those steels? Note the raised spots are usually small elongated areas with varying sizes and shape variations that are visibly different in coloration.
There dark spots like burn spots?
I wouldn't say burned its a difference in surface roughness like these spots are hard inclusions in the steel that are more shiny than the surrounding worn back areas
My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com can you send me a picture? always change the 2-4 steels on the rebuild
Might not be today but will send you a pic as soon as I can. btw was planning to install a master rebuild kit install anyways but am curious about the possible root cause for this. And aside from that Merry X-mas to you and family
Ok, what is the problem with the trans?
Great video what rebuild kit do you recommend? Thanks
TransTec overhaul kit
Hello Gary got a jeep tj 42rle doesn't run over 30ish. Doesn't shift past 2nd in 2wd but in 4 low will shift 3rd and od still just max speed 30ish. No check engine no codes. Any ideas? torque converter? Full rebuild?
If you have access to a scan tool, i would like to see if 3rd is being commanded, if it is, something internal to the trans. Also, under transmission data(scan tool) you will see CVI(clutch volume index) would like to know those numbers as well
Ok thank you will try to get this information
Ok sounds good
Please Read and Respond!!! What would cause this particular transmission when you are move to drop out of gear( it will just rev.) And u must wait until it grabs again? Reving it doesnt help nor shifting it in and out of D R P or N. Thank You for your videos!!
By the way no codes and changed fluid and filter. Nothing out of the ordinary in pan and fluid wasnt burnt and very little clutch material.
@@jasontate6183 When do you feel this happen, what year car is this?
03 jeep liberty 4x4 3.7l. It does it sporadically. I never goes but a block or 2 before it does it. Once it does it its over and over. The wierd thing was when we changed filter and half the fluid i drove it about 15mi without a glitch but the next day it began the same symptoms. Thanks for replying!!
Also other than the selenoid pack. Is thie any other sensor (lock up pressure sensor) in this 03 liberty tranny?
@@jasontate6183 Does this happen on take off or while driving or on a shift? Do you have a scanner that shows live data
Hi I have a 2009 jk with this transmission. The issue I am having is it will goes into neutral and engine will revs out especially on a steap hill when hot, any suggestions will be helpful. Also I am getting a lost of prime dtc. Thanks
Loss of prime code usually means low fluid level
So my 2011 JKU with the 42RLE lost reverse (goes into reverse but just revs) and it's also throwing two codes P0734 and P0732. I'm looking to rebuild it at this point. I see a few "Master rebuild kits" on the internet and wanted to know which rebuild kit would best serve me in rebuilding this transmission? My 42RLE has 152,000 miles on it and I'm now running 37" tires as of 6 months ago. I'm also going to regear the front and rear axles to match the 37" tires while I'm rebuilding the transmission. I need a good complete 42RLE "Master Rebuild Kit" and any other parts you'd recommend to go with the rebuild kit if needed...any help on this would be great. Thanks.
If you drive it forward, do you have 2nd and 4th gear?
@@GaryFerraro it seems to downshift into a lower gear at 50mph simply by taking my foot off the gas as if I'm braking and the rpms stay the same. At 50mph getting it home it seemed to bog down starting off from 1st going into 2nd. It felt more like it went from 2nd into 4th skipping over 1st and 3rd gear starting off getting it up to 50mph. It does drive forward in "D" drive though. I haven't tried manual shifting it while driving it though. Reverse is none existing like it's in neutral and in Neutral it wants to drive forward as if I'm in D drive. Also it broke the plastic retaining clip for the shifter cable at the transfer case. At first I thought it was just a broken tranny cable. The transmission is definitely not shifting correctly through the gears when driving forward though. I was hoping it was a stretched cable which would not put me in the correct shifting position (R reverse, N neutral and D drive) making it seem as if the tranny was off gear while driving. I guess I could try simply replacing the cable before diving into a tranny rebuild. The cable does match up with the shift lever and the shift lever on the tranny lever when going through all the shifter positions. It does manually shift into each position also P, R, N, D, 2, 1. It positively "clicks" into each position sitting still if that helps also...
@@GaryFerraro it is the transfer case cable clip that broke. Tranny cable is is just fine and manually shifts through all the positions with good positive "clicks". Transfer case cable clip that hold the cable onto the ball end of the transfer case lever is broken but it's still shifts through 2H, N, 4H but won't quite go into 4L due to the slop without the bushing/clip in place to hold the cable on. I don't think that would affect the drive gears and reverse in the tranny though...
@@2artactical55 Sounds like something broke inside the trans, a gear may have broke off a hub causing no 2nd, 4th or reverse
@@GaryFerraro we do plan on doing a rebuild on it. My son wants to learn how to do it himself with my help. We rebuilt the tranny in our 2012 Suburban ourselves after 230,000 miles when a solenoid went out in the Transmission Control Modual causing a domino effect for other things to go wrong. After days and days of research, the 42RLE tranny in his 2011 Jeep JKU seems like a tranny with notorious issues concerning others loosing the reverse gears also. We are going to install 5:13 gears in the front and rear axles to run the new 37" mud tires on it now. Since the tranny seems to be the weakest part of the JKU he wants to do it himself. At 19 years old he loves working on his own vehicles. We are currently doing a frame off restoration on his first vehicle a 1979 Jeep CJ7. Since we've never rebuilt a 42RLE tranny we weren't sure if there was one better "master rebuild kit" over another for the $300ish we see them for. Given the issues we are having with it, are there other parts you'd recommend replacing that these Master Rebuild kits don't come with while we have it out and cracked open to rebuild? We'd hate to think other parts not provided in a rebuild kit should have been replaced while we had it out. Any suggestions on other parts to replace while we are at it would help. With 152,000 miles on it, the 37" tires we put on it seemed to to be too much for it with the stock axle gearing. Changing to 5:13 axle gears should help the tranny not have to work so hard to turn the big tires. Thanks again for your input...
Hello Mr. Ferraro, my 2008 Chrysler 300 2.7L. I tow it with the rear wheels on the ground, an my output shaft speed sensor was replace an it looked very chew up on the end, I replace it again an the same thing happen. What do you think could cause it, an what can I do to correct it.
How does the car drive? the rear sensors is reading off the rear planet gear
Hi Gary, i have a 2010 jeep jk rubicon with the 42rle transmission. It was throwing a code p0733 and not shifting into 3rd but i could manually shift from 1st and 2nd as long as it didn't go into limp mode. I replaced the shift pack, filter and now it keeps giving me code p1790, still doesn't shift to 3rd. Any suggestions? Also it did this about 2 months ago but when i turned it off and back on it started working fine until now.
sounds like there is an issue with the overdrive clutch(this gets applied in 3rd). To know for sure you would need a scan tool and look at C.V.I data for the overdrive clutch. The C.V.I show internal wear on the clutch through a number the range is 75 to 125 , if its higher than 125 the clutch is worn out
Okay, will check that out. Thank you for the information.
Hey Gary, i am going to change mi neutral safety switch so I wonder in wich gear should I put my transmission to remove the valve body?
Sergio Elizondo trans has to be in low range. Also accumulator pistons and springs will fall out when you drop the valvebody.
Hi Gary, thanks for the video. I have a 2004 jeep wrangler. The transmission slips when shifting in to 3rd and never catches 3rd gear. It then throws code P0733 (Gear 3 Incorrect ratio) and goes in to limp mode. Any chance this is electrical or do i need to open it up?
Not an electrical code, Overdrive clutch is no good. What type of scan tool do you have. O/D clutch is in the input drum, middle set of clutches
Thanks for the response. I don't have any scan tools that would give active data but I've rebuilt a few overdrive transmissions. I know its not the correct way but I'm going to try and get away with just replacing the overdrive clutches and not rebuilding the entire transmission and put off a full rebuild for later. Can I pull the overdrive clutch on this transmission without pulling out the valve body? Also the jeep drives fine in 1st and 2nd gear, Is it safe to say the torque converter isn't causing any problems?
@@brianmason6218 Yes the drum can come out with out taking the valvebody off. The O/D clutch is the middle set of clutches, make sure no snap rings are broken
Gary , great video!!! I have a 05 liberty with the same trans, It has no reverse and it goes in drive intermittenly, any ideas?
ok, so just to confirm, no reverse and sometimes no forward? any codes present?
@@GaryFerraro me pasó lo mismo en KK 2009 Liberty, no arroja ningún código y todas las demás velocidades funcionan muy bien, se me desconectó la reversa despues de intentar estacionarme en una leve subida, retrocediendo en 4WD y no pude, luego me fui a estacionar en un lugar plano y al volver ya no me retrocedía el jeep. ¿que podría ser lo que está fallando?
@@pataguan Sorry do not understand, you do not have reverse?
@@GaryFerraro It has no reverse gear and it does not throw any codes and all other speeds work very well, my reverse gear was disengaged after trying to park on a slight hill, backing up in 4WD and I couldn't, then I went to park in a flat place and When I returned, the jeep would no longer back up. What could be that is failing?
Hi i have a 2006 dodge dakota 2wd with a 42rle when i put it in gear it blows transmission fluid out right above the the sensor on the back left side what could it be
so even when cold it happens or only hot?
Hey Gary, i have a 2007 Dodge Nitro 3.7 4X4 with 210,000 miles. Along with rough engagement into reverse, it also shifts roughly into 3rd gear and it makes a audible bang from underneath the car. Normally it does this for maybe a day and then it will go months before happening again. but just recently its been doing it more frequently than before and has not stopped, what do you think is causing this? I'm afraid if i continue driving it may cause more damage.
Do you by chance have access to a scan tool? theres info on that can be of help to see what the problem is
I do have a bluetooth OB2 reader for my phone but i dont know if it will display the info that you are talking about . I believe the porblem is computer related rather than a mechanical problem because i reset the computer to stock with my Hyper tech Programmer then back into performance mode and now it seems to be shifting fine.
Ok, after you reset it, does it go back to the same thing or is it still shifting ok? No codes correct?
Gary Ferraro Correct there has never been any trans codes. it drove perfectly fine yesterday, so to me it would be one of the computers right?
I went back and reread a post, what is a Hyper tech programmer? you have a chip in this computer?
Gary, I have a 2007 Jeep Wrangler with this transmission and I recently got into limp mode. The codes P0884 along with P0934 and P1745 all appear. I got the counter reset which made the P1745 go away thus temporarily fixing my limp mode, but it has returned. Do you have any experience or advice you'd like to share? I don't trust any of my "transmission specialists" in town and don't want to take it to the stealership. Thanks!
With the codes this has, it should have the VLP sensors, they are in a separate harness, about 5 or 6 wires, if you look at the connector pin #2 may be a green wire, this wire is the voltage supply for the solenoid, should be 5 volts on it, i would check that first
Okay, I'll check that out sometime this week and post the results! Appreciate it, Gary!
5 volts is confirmed. Should I just try to replace the Line Pressure Sensor?
If you clear the code how fast does it come back?
Limp mode won't start again for the 2000 miles or 1000 2-3 upshifts associated with the P1745.
I have a 2005 jeep wrangler with 4.0 & 42rle can you recommend a rebuild kit thats not a cheap knockoff but still cheap enough to afford?
I purchase all my parts from transtar and they sell TransTec kits, these are OE quality great overhaul kits
@@GaryFerraro I appreciate it very much
Hey Gary I have a question for you I have a 2009 Chrysler 300 3.5 and I'm getting these codes and i wanna see if you would know what i have to replace the codes are p0935 and p1745
The P0935 is saying the line pressure is to high for too long. The P1745 is just a counter within the computer, it may have had this issue for a while. Question, if you clear the codes, how fast do they come back?
Gary Ferraro well the first time I did it. it was good for like 2 months and than I tried to do it yesterday and it came back on like right after 2nd gear. so i don't know wat what to buy or change
Ok, so this seems like a hard code, changing out the solenoid in the valvebody may or may not work, i've seen wiring issues, fuse box issues, solenoid problems, would need some diagnosing to figure out. The code means the line pressure is high for too long. Are you familiar with dropping the valvebody?
Not really buddy but I jus took it to a machnic cuz I really don't have time to mess around with it but I saw a video on the same codes and he fixes the issue but I can't understand the video cuz it's in Arabic language
Can you send a link, i will watch it(muted) and see what he is doing
Hey I have 2007 dodge nitro 4x4 3rd gear out. Do you have website were to order parts
Hi Gary Im rebuilding a 42rle just like this one and it was overheating on long trips after one hour draving could it be a TCC problem or is there any other issue with these transmissions causing overheating problem? any ideas I would be thakfull by rhe way greatings and keep up doing the good job.
hello,
Tcc is the first thing that comes to mind, also those pumps dont really put out alot of volume, i normally switch out the body and gears and with a 604 body and gears
thanks Gary i will do that, i will switch pumps i really apreciate you answer.
Just the body and gears, reuse your stator
ok Gary thanks and have a great day
Welcome, let me know how it goes
I have a dodge Dakota 05 4x4. I think this is the trans for my truck. However they dont look like it.
Can you help me ID it if possible.
Also I have been starting to set up little shop for doing my trans and motor rebuilds. Small 16c16 barn stile. Main floor shop second floor parts and storage. Just tell o can get my shop built 35x35
Oh also been a big fan you are the first one that I fo to watching videos here
I came across your video a good one. question.. dodge nitro 2007 4wd, 99,000 miles, 42rle remark 606, suddenly reverse gear doesn't work, all other gear work fine.
got a couple of codes... diagnostic from the dealer reads.
trans does not go into reverse code PCM P07210 shaft speed sensor circuit performance and PCM
P1790 fault immediately after shift are active. what's your opinion please.
help ..please
Did this happen suddenly, or was it slipping?
it happens suddenly no warning, no noises, no slipping, I went out and past the street where I have to made a turn, put that in reverse work fine when I got to my destination and try to parked it suddenly didn't work.
no engine light came on either them took it to the dealer they gave me those codes.
i don't abused of my car neither treating it rough I'm very smooth..
Hi Gary, I'm hoping you can help me. I have a Jeep Liberty 2010 6 cylinder 3.6 liter and the code coming up is PO868, I took it to a trans repair guy who said to change the filter & re-use the oil so it doesn't shock the trans. My friend did that but CK Engine light still on. I have a registration due on 7/8 & I can't pass emissions test (in CT) due to this code that keeps coming up. The transmission repair guy said next step is a brand new transmission or a rebuilt one that he can help me find. Do you think that is the situation, is there no in-between fix? It seems it's either all or nothing. Not sure if I should look for a new car, the Jeep has 240k on it, body is in great shape. Oh, one other thing, he said the clunking I get from time to time (esp when going uphill) is called a "clutch squawk" I'm really desperate for advice, I just don't have the $ right now to fix the transmission :( thanks so much in advance!
Ok, first this code means that your line pressure is too low, around 2006 they added line pressure solenoid to basically lower line pressure at an idle. These solenoids work on a 5 volt reference. If you clear the code how fast does it come back? right away? A bad or restricted filter can cause this code, usually a restricted filter will make a noise and the car would stop moving when hot, also the solenoid itself could be bad, but the question is how fast does the code come back once cleared, if it comes back right away you may have an electrical problem with the trans
Hi Gary! The code doesn't come back right away, as a matter of fact, I drove almost four hundred miles before the code triggered. The very last time which was yesterday, the code back after only after about 150 miles. The trans guy I took it to last week said the pressure sensor was good (I saw on youtube someone mentioned it could b pressure sens related so that's why I asked about that) called the trans guy today and he said to put in a new or rebuilt transmission. Would love to know more about the solenoids, any way to fix that without a total trans rebuild? thanks so much!!!
I can send some information to you, my e-mail address is gsferraro@yahoo.com If you like e-mail me and i can send you info on the code and the solenoids. If the code comes back after 150 miles, you could probably get this inspected before the check engine light comes on. Also, not sure how this guy knows the pressure sensor is good? maybe he is assuming it is. Since the code comes back after 150 miles or so, may not be electrical. How does the car upshift?
the trans guy took the car, alone, for about 30 minutes, he had his sensor hooked to the car as he was driving, he returned and said pressure sensor was good. I'll send you an email now, Id really appreciate any info you have. thanks again.
Ok i have info to send you
Gary i have a 42rle new out of a 2005 dodge charger, I also have my 2005 dodge durango transmission, how hard is it to remove the tail shaft and put my durango tail shaft on it to match my drive line.
Do you mean the adapter shaft that goes into the transfer case?
yes
That is a pain in the neck, big time. Sometimes it takes me 30 to 40 minutes. I just bought a tool from Adapt-A-Case, specially for that shaft, i havent used it yet. You will need a slide hammer.
the reason i ask is i can buy the new trans for $798.00 for dodge charger, and my trans in my durango have 2 different tail shafts, or is it easier to rebuild the trans i have in the durango
if one is 2 wheel drive and the other is 4 wheel drive, the rear planet may have to be changed as well, this would mean taking the entire trans apart.
hello I watched your video very nice. 2004 model cherooke 3.7 lt car reverse gear does not move when I get. but the forward gears are fine. why could it be ?
Reverse clutch could be no good. The reverse clutch in the input drum is not applied in the forward gears
Gary Ferraro What could be the problem?
@@gokay6717 I would say you have a problem in the reverse clutch pack. Does this move forward in neutral by chance?
Gary Ferraro no not moving in neutral. everything is normal. it just doesn't move in reverse! When switching to position R, there is a slight sound, like a hijacking sound.
Gary Ferraro There is one more problem, the car is 90000 km and the transmission oil has not changed before.
Took my 4r2rle to a trans shop because when I tae off with it cold and go easy on the gas it shifts very harsh almost like a down shift. other then that it is fine. they tested it with the computer and said the trans is trashed and has broken snap rings and is showing a temp of 1100 degrees. I'm not stupid, that trans would have melted at 1000 lol. I think its the temp sensor for the fluid? Would do you recommend?
What year is this jeep, 2006 by chance, also what is the make and model of the car
Gary Ferraro thanks for your time and reply. it is a 2006 with inline 6 and 42rle
3.73s 4" lift and 33s.
You may have a bad ECM, just fixed one a few weeks ago
Gary Ferraro the computer under the hood? that's what I thought because of the codes
Hi Gary,Great video im in libya I have a 2005 Jeep liberty 4*4 with the 3.7L limted and 42RLE transmission American specific it has 155,000 mi on it. I had a code P0755 2C Solenoid Circuit Malfunction - Shift Solenoid B Malfunction . i am never change the oil and filter for transmission from i have it 5 y ago
when i drive it for 80 km (50 mi) i hear very little knock in gear change ..now from year ago after i drive it for 10 minutes it go to limp mode .i think in 2nd gear >>>What can you help me with? Do I change the solenoid or oil and filter in the first And see what happens...Thank a lot.
That is an electrical code, which means you either have a bad solenoid pack, bad wire or bad computer. Do you know where the computer is for the car?
Gary Ferraro thanks for your time and reply ....do you mean Engine Computer Unit ECU PCM OEM it is beside the battery....what your Recommendations
Ohm the solenoid out at the computer(pcm) this way you can check the wire and solenoid at the same time, do you have a wiring diagram?
i know the solenoid inside transmission >>>i downloaded wiring diagram for 2006 i hope is symmetric....from here cardiagn.com/wiring-2006-liberty-kj/
Thanks Gary
+احمد محمد Welcome. Thank you for watching. Gary
Does anyone know what size that nut is on the output shaft have one to rebuild but want to make sure all the tools that's needed
Cant remember off hand, sorry. Its larger than 1 1/2" may be 1 3/4" but not 100% sure
Gary Ferraro it's 1 15/16 in case anyone else was wondering
Thank you
where is the tcc solenoid is it a part of the solenoid pack on the valve body
yes, part of the solenoid pack
well thank you for sharing your knowledge with me it is very appreciated
Your welcome, do you have a TCC code?
yeah i have po740 along with po700
with that code, it could be the pack, also converter or even pump bushing, i would try the pack first since it would be changed anyway for this code. gary
mine is stuck in reverse so I cant get the valve body out....help
Did you try disconnecting the linkage on the bottom at the trans to see if it will move into low. To get the valvebody out linkage must be in low
Gary Ferraro what do you mean in low i couldnt get mine out either
In order to get the valvebody out, the linkage has to be in the low range. Manual one range
I need to replace the solenoid pack, but i dont want to remove the whole transmission is that possible sir?
Yes you could drop out the valvebody, what kind of car are you working on?
segundo día gary mira estoy reconstruyendo una trasmicion de una dakota 2005 mi pregunta es cuantos discos de pasta lleva te agradecería mucho tu respuesta
Translate to english please
I think he said build the wall... Just kidding Sorgatana. He was asking about Pasta discs?
Sorry, still dont get it, but i like pasta, lol
Gary Ferraro maybe he was asking about clutch discs but if you need to know how many go in, it is probably time for a professional
yes i agree, but anyway
Reverse--2 discs
overdrive 4
underdrive 4
2-4 clutch---4
low/reverse clutch---5 disc
Hey man. Thank for sharing the video! What’s the socket size for that nut?
1 1/2 thats the large back nut
اربد طريقة فك المحرك
I’ve been cursed with this transmission
what happened?
Gary Ferraro Nothing has happened yet I have put in at least 6000 miles on the one that I have now but reading all the issues that this transmission has it’s bound to break sometime.
Lol. I got ya. Has the trans been serviced?
Good tanks
thanks for watching
AGAIN YOU GUYS PUT THESE AWESOME VIDEOS UP SHOWING IN STRONG DETAIL WHATS GOING ON INSIDE THE CASE.I'M GOING TO CHANGE OUT A SOLENOID PACK AND I APPRECIATE THE INFO YOU HAVE PROVIDED. CHRYSLER HAS MADE EVERYTHING SO YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TOO THE DEALER TO CHECK THE FLUID LEVELS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING. THANKS FOR THE HELP FRIEND!!!
Thanks for watching, why changing solenoid pack? do you have a code?
@@GaryFerraro yes I do. P0755
WOW!!! YOU ARE A COOL GUY!!
@@GaryFerraro ANY ADVICE WILL BE AP[APPRECIATED!!
@@michaelhenry550 ok, so this code is 2-4 solenoid circuit, first thing to do is ohm the solenoid at the computer, the solenoids ohm out at around 2.0 ohms.
I hate this transmission damn thing keeps shifting up and down in my 05 300 no codes or nothing smh
Is it not supposed to shift?
@@steventhedog94 it is but not like it was doing.
Ugh this Transmission is so problematic and difficult to tolerate its messed up flaws, breaks down easily, ain't worth a scat been so HIGH maintenance and not in a GOOD way no wonder Chrysler DROPPED the Dakota truck and has no plans of bringing it back the way Chevy or Ford did on their midsize trucks if anything the whole line of Chrysler itself is kind of shabby, I knew I should of gone with a Tacoma or Frontier...
Yes, I agree with that