Thank you. I'm just new to your channel but we really love your teaching style. You make everything nice and simple to understand and you show your working out, lol. Love it. Looking forward to watching and learning so much more.
For a novice hobbyist like me, this kind of simple to understand video with lots of visual examples is really useful. Looking forward to the next in the series.
A great reminder of all these joints. Fine tuning is the key to all these joints being successful. I find a router plane is indispensable for this. Far more accurate than simply chiselling out the saw marks.
Not sure if the next video has already been filmed, but might be worth addressing how to keep the layers you need to glue up to make those joints from sheet material from slipping and sliding when glue and clamps are applied.
Joey chalkes method of nailing in a brad, leaving it sticking up a bit and clipping the top end off worked a treat for me a while back gluing big bits of 3/4 birch together.
@@frankblack1481 in the past, I've left the brad head proud, then pulled it out when the glue has set. Nails are fine, but you don't want to accidentally saw through one if you can help it.
A useful introduction Peter, as you say it comes down to time, preference, resources and skill, but also how many similar joints are required - jig & machine set-up really pays off where there is a lot of repetition !
I love joints, as they're the foundation of any project. I like that you included video of each method, rather than just saying. Excellent quality video.
Little details like using the actual material to set the depth on the plunge router for a dado are helpful reminders. I “knew” that but had forgotten about it and wasted a bunch of time last week. Something I’ve found helpful in shop carts is that you can do half-lap joints using 2 layers of plywood. Adding screws (preferably from the inside for aesthetics) makes a rock solid connection. I build my shop vac & dust separator cart that way and it turned out seriously over-built.
The only flat top ground blades I can find in the UK are the Saxton blades. These are all primarily for ripping, so their teeth are all massive. The 160mm blade has only 18 teeth, I feel this is too coarse for decent joinery.
I absolutely love the video's you are making! I'm really exited to see your video to mimic these joints with sheet material, Dennis from the "hooked on wood" youtube channel uses that for his workbench, and i am planning to do so too in the near future. But I'll guess I'm going to wait for your video first.....
Hello Peter, how you would you make a 45 mitre for Edge Trim using the tracksaw? For example edge trim using hardwood to cover the ply edge. Would you angle the saw at 45, or stand up the piece on it's side (as it's usually only 3/4" wide, then 45 the fence? Or some other magical way?
Peter you forgot to add morticing attachments are available for drill presses not good for commercial workloads but adequate for diy occasional use I often clean up door mortices with a powerfile having predrilled that could be used in larger joints as well.
Great resource Peter, thanks for these informative videos! When using a track saw to cut rebates I often struggle to scoot the workpiece over by a couple millimetres. The grip of the rail and weight of the saw make it tricky but in these clips you make it look easy. Do you have a trick to this?
Thanks! I did a short about this - depending on your setup, you can pull the saw back and usually the weight is enough to lift the rail slightly - just enough to slide the workpiece along. 👍👍
It’s coming along - hit a few snags with the damp proof course that needed fixing, so a few weeks behind schedule. Roofing guys managed to send roof tiles instead of velux windows, looked good but would have been kinda dark… 🤷♂️😂
My grandfather taught me to cut mortice and tenons differently than anyone I've seen on RUclips: our tenons were half the thickness of the piece. So a 1" board would have a 1/2" tenon, and the mortice would have 1/4" cheeks. He learnt his trade in London before WW2, things might have been different over the other side of the Atlantic where the woodworking traditions were subtly different, but those traditions are now prevalent in the 21st century. It probably doesn't make a huge difference, but I feel the tenon is stronger when thicker.
the 'one third' rule of thumb has been around forever - I was taught this in the 70s, so no American youtube influence there; if you're putting an apron around a table then I can see the benefit of a thicker tenon, less so if you making a frame of the same thickness, eg a door, where the thinner mortice could be problematic. 👍
Peter I have been admiring your ability to cut the lap joint in the vertical using the track saw. I watched your 'extrusion confusion' video today, it seems the Makita rail clamps I have would work with T track??? Would this in theory work with a very basic bench (trestles joined by studs with board on top) say??? Doing joints and rebates this way would be a huge help to me and hopefully others, it certainly looks a great thing to have.
Hi. If I remember correctly the most ancient M&T found by archeologists is 10k years old (or 12k, not sure if it's BC or not), somewhere in current China.
Currently the oldest M&T joints are from Altscherbitz, Germany, Neolithic. Tree ring dated to 5102BC Its was a well lining (one of 4 from the area) with dozens of M&T joints cut with stone tools. Some others have been found in the Czech Republic tree ring dated to 5256BC that use boards dadoed into corner posts. Wait a few years and they will find something even older somewhere else. I think the popular press announced them as '10,000 years old' when the discoveries were initially reported.
One of the best tools for all joinery is a radial arm saw with a dado stack, sadly no hobbyist grade "RAs" are still being made. But really good saws can be had for less than the cost of a nice meal for two. I gave $50 USD for mine and there is one listed near to me for $30 USD right now. Are they dangerous? Not when used for crosscuts and joinery, at least no more dangerous than a miter saw or a track saw. And if you have very deep pockets (like Peter Millard) you can buy a 12" Radial Arm Saw from Original Saw in the USA or a King Radial Arm Saw in Canada. Both are copies of the 12" DeWalt RA. I'm sure that even the thought of using a Radial Arm Saw in the UK and EU would cause stout men to swoon.
It's more that my shop precludes me having room for a table taw, a miter saw, an MFT bench, and a track saw. I own all of those (exc. tracksaw, that's my birthday present to me this year) but they a scattered into 3-4 spaces. @@10MinuteWorkshop
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“It’s called a dado because….. I don’t know.” Brilliant! 😅
😆👍
Thank you. I'm just new to your channel but we really love your teaching style. You make everything nice and simple to understand and you show your working out, lol. Love it. Looking forward to watching and learning so much more.
Thanks, and welcome! 👍
Excellent thank you
A great reminder
Informative. I’ve been a subscriber some time, now. I think I could listen to Peter read the phonebook. Such a soothing voice.
Thank you!
you know what Peter I really enjoyed that. Brings back loads of memories from my younger days starting off. Thanks mate😊
Cheers Carl! 👍
Hi Peter , Very useful video thanks , Take care
Thanks, you too! 👍
Thanks for sharing.
For a novice hobbyist like me, this kind of simple to understand video with lots of visual examples is really useful. Looking forward to the next in the series.
Thank you! 👍
That was excellent! I love this content and format Peter. Thank you.
Thank you! 👍
So many joints and all great fun to make. Cheers Peter
Thank you! 👍
"Made when I was 16" - When "we" had, Metalwork, Woodwork, Needlework & Cookery @ school!
Those were the days! 👍
I had to mentally pause at this point and “16+47”, noooo wayyyy. He certainly looks young for his age, I hope I look that young at that age 😂🙌🏼
A great reminder of all these joints. Fine tuning is the key to all these joints being successful. I find a router plane is indispensable for this. Far more accurate than simply chiselling out the saw marks.
And they are surprisingly cheap, especially if you just get a mini one
Not sure if the next video has already been filmed, but might be worth addressing how to keep the layers you need to glue up to make those joints from sheet material from slipping and sliding when glue and clamps are applied.
Already done, and included. 👍
Joey chalkes method of nailing in a brad, leaving it sticking up a bit and clipping the top end off worked a treat for me a while back gluing big bits of 3/4 birch together.
@@frankblack1481 in the past, I've left the brad head proud, then pulled it out when the glue has set. Nails are fine, but you don't want to accidentally saw through one if you can help it.
@@Mikey__R yes, good point. I was careful to avoid prospective cut lines with the brads. But IIRC, I hit one or two.
Excellent
The way you show how to use the track saw has put my plans for a table saw on hold.
But I might just buy the MFT instead
Thanks! 👍
As always, your videos are inspirational. Also you're looking fantastic for 63! Very much looking forward to this series - thank you.
That's very kind, thank you. It's the drinking that does it... 👍
Another great video, thank you Peter
Thank you! 👍
Iron Bridge in Shropshire uses mortise and tenon joinery as well
Nice! 💪👍
Fantastic stuff Peter🙂.
Thanks Clive!
A useful introduction Peter, as you say it comes down to time, preference, resources and skill, but also how many similar joints are required - jig & machine set-up really pays off where there is a lot of repetition !
Hi Peter. Love your work 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video fella 👍
Cheers Dean! 👍
Thanks a bunch for the lesson, Peter! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! 👍
I love joints, as they're the foundation of any project.
I like that you included video of each method, rather than just saying. Excellent quality video.
Thank you! 👍
Thanks for your interesting video.
Thank you! 👍
Little details like using the actual material to set the depth on the plunge router for a dado are helpful reminders. I “knew” that but had forgotten about it and wasted a bunch of time last week.
Something I’ve found helpful in shop carts is that you can do half-lap joints using 2 layers of plywood. Adding screws (preferably from the inside for aesthetics) makes a rock solid connection. I build my shop vac & dust separator cart that way and it turned out seriously over-built.
Thanks. And now you’re just giving away the plot to the next video! 😂👍
The only flat top ground blades I can find in the UK are the Saxton blades. These are all primarily for ripping, so their teeth are all massive. The 160mm blade has only 18 teeth, I feel this is too coarse for decent joinery.
Brilliant....!
Thank you! 👍
Great presentation and explanation as always. 👌🏻
Thank you! 👍
Another of your great videos 👍
Thank you! 👍
Looking forward to the tracksaw MDF dovetail joint.
Did that one a while back! 👍 Tracksaw Dovetails [video 496]
ruclips.net/video/NHmwoe6S9vQ/видео.html
I absolutely love the video's you are making! I'm really exited to see your video to mimic these joints with sheet material, Dennis from the "hooked on wood" youtube channel uses that for his workbench, and i am planning to do so too in the near future. But I'll guess I'm going to wait for your video first.....
Thanks! 👍
Oh, now you mention, even Paul Sellers have a plywood version of his workbench. Making the joints by gluing together multiple layers.
Hello Peter, how you would you make a 45 mitre for Edge Trim using the tracksaw? For example edge trim using hardwood to cover the ply edge. Would you angle the saw at 45, or stand up the piece on it's side (as it's usually only 3/4" wide, then 45 the fence? Or some other magical way?
Peter you forgot to add morticing attachments are available for drill presses not good for commercial workloads but adequate for diy occasional use I often clean up door mortices with a powerfile having predrilled that could be used in larger joints as well.
Great resource Peter, thanks for these informative videos!
When using a track saw to cut rebates I often struggle to scoot the workpiece over by a couple millimetres. The grip of the rail and weight of the saw make it tricky but in these clips you make it look easy. Do you have a trick to this?
Thanks! I did a short about this - depending on your setup, you can pull the saw back and usually the weight is enough to lift the rail slightly - just enough to slide the workpiece along. 👍👍
Great video as always Peter. That stool looked really impressive for a 16 year old, great job 👍
Thank you! 🙌👍
Having real problems trying to work out/find the best way to join wood end to end for repairing window frames. Any suggestions?
Hi Peter - how's the house reno's coming along - any video/s of progress please?
It’s coming along - hit a few snags with the damp proof course that needed fixing, so a few weeks behind schedule. Roofing guys managed to send roof tiles instead of velux windows, looked good but would have been kinda dark… 🤷♂️😂
My grandfather taught me to cut mortice and tenons differently than anyone I've seen on RUclips: our tenons were half the thickness of the piece. So a 1" board would have a 1/2" tenon, and the mortice would have 1/4" cheeks. He learnt his trade in London before WW2, things might have been different over the other side of the Atlantic where the woodworking traditions were subtly different, but those traditions are now prevalent in the 21st century.
It probably doesn't make a huge difference, but I feel the tenon is stronger when thicker.
the 'one third' rule of thumb has been around forever - I was taught this in the 70s, so no American youtube influence there; if you're putting an apron around a table then I can see the benefit of a thicker tenon, less so if you making a frame of the same thickness, eg a door, where the thinner mortice could be problematic. 👍
Practice, practice, practice
Peter I have been admiring your ability to cut the lap joint in the vertical using the track saw. I watched your 'extrusion confusion' video today, it seems the Makita rail clamps I have would work with T track??? Would this in theory work with a very basic bench (trestles joined by studs with board on top) say??? Doing joints and rebates this way would be a huge help to me and hopefully others, it certainly looks a great thing to have.
Yes, absolutely; first time I used that method was on a 'Basic Build' video using a DOY MFT that cost me £16 plus the purchased MFT top. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter will check that out!
Great video 😊 Which router bit do you use for your grooves? Could you be so nice to share a link?
Matthias Wandel for glue up testing And .......
peace
Hi.
If I remember correctly the most ancient M&T found by archeologists is 10k years old (or 12k, not sure if it's BC or not), somewhere in current China.
Currently the oldest M&T joints are from Altscherbitz, Germany, Neolithic. Tree ring dated to 5102BC Its was a well lining (one of 4 from the area) with dozens of M&T joints cut with stone tools. Some others have been found in the Czech Republic tree ring dated to 5256BC that use boards dadoed into corner posts. Wait a few years and they will find something even older somewhere else. I think the popular press announced them as '10,000 years old' when the discoveries were initially reported.
@@brucelee3388 I tried to retrieve my source but failed... maybe the date has not been validated by analysis.
👏🏼🙏🏼
Thanks Mandy! 👍
Joint dealer
😂
One of the best tools for all joinery is a radial arm saw with a dado stack, sadly no hobbyist grade "RAs" are still being made. But really good saws can be had for less than the cost of a nice meal for two. I gave $50 USD for mine and there is one listed near to me for $30 USD right now. Are they dangerous? Not when used for crosscuts and joinery, at least no more dangerous than a miter saw or a track saw. And if you have very deep pockets (like Peter Millard) you can buy a 12" Radial Arm Saw from Original Saw in the USA or a King Radial Arm Saw in Canada. Both are copies of the 12" DeWalt RA. I'm sure that even the thought of using a Radial Arm Saw in the UK and EU would cause stout men to swoon.
As the former owner of a Dewalt RAS, I'll politely disagree, but as long as you're happy doing you, than that's all good. 👍
It's more that my shop precludes me having room for a table taw, a miter saw, an MFT bench, and a track saw. I own all of those (exc. tracksaw, that's my birthday present to me this year) but they a scattered into 3-4 spaces. @@10MinuteWorkshop
Wait now... Built when you were 16 and lasted 47 years which means you are 63 years old? I would never have guessed that you were older than 50.
That’s kind of you to say, but yep, 63 and feeling it! 😂👍
Peter you need to be careful trying to pull that butt joint apart, if it lets go you're going to punch yourself in the face.
That joint ain’t letting go! 💪
Methinks the butt joint will inspire "The Ten Minute Isometric Workout Channel".