Forgetting about the temperature, turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.
Thank you so much, you saved me buying a new shower. I tested the micro switch and it was ok. I then opened up the main inlet fully as it had been shut off for tap replacement, kept my fingers crossed, switched 4:08 on, magic hot water, thanks again. Any other problems, I'll be sure to check you out on tube.😊
Very helpful, thanks. Replaced old Triton T80si with brand new like-for-like and have no hot water on economy setting, whereas the previous unit was always on Economy. Using multimeter I found a reading of 12.7ohms one element but 0.04 on the other.
It might have been useful to people coming new to your video to explain that they will need to set their multimeter to ohms and place one of the test leads appropriately. You are after all effectively promoting the purchase of one. A tradesman would know that resistance is measured in ohms and his meter and leads need to be set appropriately but a 'newby' might not.
Hi Ashleigh You are doing something wrong when you are checking the elements, both elements have different outputs therefore you will have two different resistances. The two most likely faults are still a faulty element, or one of the relays on the PCB is faulty not allowing power through to the element.if this is the case you will have to replace the PCB
Each element should show a different resistance as they both have different outputs If it is tripping at the fuse board try turning the shower on first at cold if it is ok try the first power setting and if OK try the second if it goes off with either then that points to an element fault Is the MCB the correct rating for the output of the shower?
My Creda 950DL electric shower doesn’t work properly. The Mid LED light stays off - water runs cold at full pressure. Turned the water flow dial to extreme hot - then water gets lukewarm, while the flow from the showerhead is weak. Both High LEDs stays on, while the Mid LED stay off. After watching your repair video, I tested components… I then tried to remove component/s. However, after spending about an hour trying…I found they were not straightforward to remove. I then replaced the cover and left it. I suppose because the Creda 950DL is so difficult to repair, why there is no information online showing how to repair them??? So, I guess it's got to be a new shower?!
Hi Doc, I have what appears to be an issue with some heating element or part on my Triton thermostatic power shower. At present, with the water heater left on approx. 1 hour, to get a decent 'hot' shower the dial must be on the max level 9.
Interesting video. I switched mine off at the circuit breaker and then did your extra check for live power, I got a strange reading of 35 VAC, despite it all being off. A guy told me that this is due to the capacitive effects of other items running on the consumer unit. The shower is on a separate ring and is the only device on that connection, does this make sense?
It is running ok on cold. But as soon switching to first setting it tripping fuse in MCB. Does the same on second mode as well. MCB rating is correct. That shower served us 3 years no problem apart limescale clogging shower head. I believe it's the blame (limescale). Element got over heated and burnt out. My concern is why I still get reading on both connection points of element. Is it possible I am getting continuity through the water in the tank, while doing test?
Hi shower doctor I am having a problem with a Mira shower I will work at a medium heat for a while but turn up the temperature it cuts out at the fuse board leave for a minute and switch it back on and it works again the same thing happens do u think it is the T.C.O any ideas hope to here from u soon Derek
Hi Doc,My mate was taking a shower gainsborough 9.5 soveriegn and it made a banging noise and black water came out for a few seconds,now its only luke warm ,wont get really hot. help pls
hi i have a triton topaz t100si asprante shower. the flow of water has went low and is only warm regardless of turning dial from fully hot to fully cold it still comes out warm with low flow. removed the hose and still no diff. removed the inlet pipe and plenty pressure. i have removed the inlet filter but was clear, tested the ohms on the heater of this 10.5kw shower and getting a reading of 11 ohms on both elements. could it be the flow valve at fault and if so can i buy one from yourself.
Hi I have triton Inscription electric shower. It started to trip fuse in a main board. By testing with multimeter both elements show 14/16 ohms. It is running on cold so solenoid not an issue. Can TCO be a problem? Does it trip fuse? Or it's still heating element? Have another thought if it makes a difference that heating tank is full of water. Do I get right reading,because I read ohms, by checking one element pole with another's element pole
Is a plastic or a copper heating element (the cylinder) safer if the heater is faulty? Safer to prevent electrocution when the heater is faulty. Thanks
very informative. However, I had to insert the black probe onto the brown supply lead to get readings from the heating elements. There were 3 elements and each gave resistance readings of approximately 4.96k ohms. When I tried the blue wire the readings were 0. My shower is a Bristan B85. Now I am puzzled! Any explanation? Have I read it wrong? The shower works fine
Mmmm! There are only two elements in this shower there two wires / elements going into the heating tank and two coming out, however the two that are coming out are joined/ welded together. So you need the black probe on to the blue wire going into the shower and the red probe on each of the two elements that go into the shower (Not the ones that are joined together) usually if you have a faulty element you will have one with a resistance reading one with no resistance ( 0.0k Homs)
Hi, I have one of these showers and we live in a very hard water area. When I installed our new shower, I also installed one of the electrolytic scale inhibitors just after the main stop cock. It has hardly made any difference, just that the lime scale seems to be a little bit more powder like and the clumps are smaller. Anyway if I was to remove the shower from the wall and then try and fill it with limescale remover solution, would this work. I guess the problem is forcing the solution all the way into the heating chamber.
bogmasher. I used to be replacing heater unit due to lime scale. Solved the problem by switching to cold for 4/5 seconds, Now they make showers with a cool down before the shower switches off. The higher the water is heated the more lime scale is produced, switching off from hot I believe causes the water in the tank to be super heated thus more lime scale.
Hi, Ive recently fitted a Gainsborough 10.5se shower. When switched off, water continues to drip from the shower head, (one drip ever 20 seconds) Can you please tell me why this is happening, many thanks Colin
It may be that the solenoid is faulty. With these showers there are few user serviceable parts and the solenoid is one of these, so a new engine may be needed.
Hello Doc, I have moved to a rented property where a Gainsborough 8.5se is installed. Now when in shower on the water only comes out hot regardless of what temp i have kept the control knob on....I was thinking to change the whole shower engine ??
Hi shower doctor. l got galaxy aqua 3000 and the water its to hot what parts of the shower l must change . no matter if it is in cold or warm medim position remains always very hot water .
Hi Alencar, The things to check first are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower. The Shower Doctor
hi i have a triton t80 gsi and it has decided to not give me any hot water,Pressure is good and the filter is not blocked.Any ideas what it could be thanks
Hi Harriet, if your shower is only producing cold water then it sounds like your thermal cut out switch (TCO) has failed for some reason. This part is a safety device and normally cuts the power to the heating elements when the water overheats inside the shower. Normally you would be experiencing temperature or flow problems running up to this part failing. Was this the case or was the shower working as normal? Reasons for the shower over heating could be one of the following: The water board are working in your area and the pressure is lower or the water is turned off The Stop tap to the shower is not fully open The filter is blocked (which you have already checked) You have a leak inside the shower coming from the stabilser valve / pressure switch Wires are melting inside the shower. If you do find you have a leak from the stabilising valve then this can be replaced with this item in the link provided - www.showerdoc.com/triton-stabilising-valve-p22640800 If your shower wasn’t experiencing any of the above symptoms before the TCO failed then you should get away with fitting a new TCO which can be found via this link provided - www.showerdoc.com/triton-tco-t80z-new-22012340 ruclips.net/video/_zi8JbEMYMs/видео.html If when this TCO is fitted it cuts the hot water again to cold then you will have an underlying issue and it will eventually fail this part again. If this is the case you will need to get in touch once again before this happens. If it works ok then it was obviously a drop in pressure or this part just decided to fail.
The Shower Doctor yes it was going hot and cold.Thanks is it expensive to replace?The unit is only 2 years old.Just wondering what could cause this.Thanks again
I’ve got the same problem, Triton Enrich. Checked the elements exactly as you’ve shown. They are both showing 11 ohms.... no hot water at all on any setting. The prd is working ok. Any ideas on any further testing?
Thanks for the video. RCD was tripping as soon as I turned the Power knob to heat, so I had to shower in cold water for a while. However, I turned the Power knob to the first heater setting today and it didn't trip the rcd? Case of humidity/moisture inside the heater can?
hi i have a triton cara shower that is running cold ive checked the TCO thats good and ive also checked the heating tank element they are both giving a reading of .012 is this likely or is there another problem as ive seen where you said they should both have different readings thanks for any help you can give
There is usually a 2-3 ohm difference between the readings on the elements. If the shower is hot then cold it points to a flow problem. This shower needs 1 bar dynamic and a flow of 6 litres a minute minimum to work properly. If these are fine then you may have a faulty Stabilizer valve.
The Shower Doctor yes it may seem a silly question, (not as silly as i should of checked that first though) but that was the problem and the arcing sound when the shower is in use has also gone thank you so much for you help all tightened up now and the shower is working fine .
Hello. What setting do I put my multimeter on to test the element please? My shower has recently decided that it wont heat up past 30degrees. I'm working my way through your videos trying to find the problem! Thank you.
These are 2 different showers Jimmy. If you're unsure which one you have give us a call on 0131 538 4343 and we'll do our best to advise you on the correct part.
Great video. Question - Got a Mira Go shower. With the temperature turned full up, we only get luke warm water. Would you like to suggest which part might be the problem?
Forgetting about the temperature, turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.
Thank you so much, you saved me buying a new shower. I tested the micro switch and it was ok. I then opened up the main inlet fully as it had been shut off for tap replacement, kept my fingers crossed, switched 4:08 on, magic hot water, thanks again. Any other problems, I'll be sure to check you out on tube.😊
Just successfully fixed our shower thanks to your excellent videos 🍻 👏
Very helpful, thanks. Replaced old Triton T80si with brand new like-for-like and have no hot water on economy setting, whereas the previous unit was always on Economy. Using multimeter I found a reading of 12.7ohms one element but 0.04 on the other.
Good honest information,Very helpful,Many thanks.
Happened to me too. Flat was wired to the shop downstairs as well as its own fuse board. Always check the power.
Very clear thanks .... brilliant vids
great, helpful videos. Ill be calling the stop in the morning. Well done!
It might have been useful to people coming new to your video to explain that they will need to set their multimeter to ohms and place one of the test leads appropriately. You are after all effectively promoting the purchase of one. A tradesman would know that resistance is measured in ohms and his meter and leads need to be set appropriately but a 'newby' might not.
Wired into house next door brilliant 😂😂😂
Hi Ashleigh
You are doing something wrong when you are checking the elements, both elements have different outputs therefore you will have two different resistances.
The two most likely faults are still a faulty element, or one of the relays on the PCB is faulty not allowing power through to the element.if this is the case you will have to replace the PCB
My amber 3 shower not coming hot water flow of water is perfect
Each element should show a different resistance as they both have different outputs
If it is tripping at the fuse board try turning the shower on first at cold if it is ok try the first power setting and if OK try the second if it goes off with either then that points to an element fault
Is the MCB the correct rating for the output of the shower?
Most excellent thank you for sharing
Water pressure ok but no hot water, the TCO and the elements test ok. Anything else I can check?
My Creda 950DL electric shower doesn’t work properly.
The Mid LED light stays off - water runs cold at full pressure. Turned the water flow dial to extreme hot - then water gets lukewarm, while the flow from the showerhead is weak. Both High LEDs stays on, while the Mid LED stay off.
After watching your repair video, I tested components… I then tried to remove component/s. However, after spending about an hour trying…I found they were not straightforward to remove. I then replaced the cover and left it.
I suppose because the Creda 950DL is so difficult to repair, why there is no information online showing how to repair them???
So, I guess it's got to be a new shower?!
If not properly grounded, can a blown heating element electrocute the bather when touching the tap?
Hi Doc, I have what appears to be an issue with some heating element or part on my Triton thermostatic power shower. At present, with the water heater left on approx. 1 hour, to get a decent 'hot' shower the dial must be on the max level 9.
Hi - please can you show us how to remove and replace the Mira heater tank?
Do shower elements ever blow and go open circuit so you measure infinite resistance? I think I’ve had cooker elements go open circuit.
Interesting video. I switched mine off at the circuit breaker and then did your extra check for live power, I got a strange reading of 35 VAC, despite it all being off. A guy told me that this is due to the capacitive effects of other items running on the consumer unit. The shower is on a separate ring and is the only device on that connection, does this make sense?
It is running ok on cold. But as soon switching to first setting it tripping fuse in MCB. Does the same on second mode as well.
MCB rating is correct. That shower served us 3 years no problem apart limescale clogging shower head.
I believe it's the blame (limescale). Element got over heated and burnt out. My concern is why I still get reading on both connection points of element. Is it possible I am getting continuity through the water in the tank, while doing test?
Thanks!
So how do you know what kW the can is?
Some don't have numbers
Hello shower doctor. I just fitted a new triton electric shower, but for some reason only cold water comes out. any ideas. Thanks
Hi shower doctor I am having a problem with a Mira shower I will work at a medium heat for a while but turn up the temperature it cuts out at the fuse board leave for a minute and switch it back on and it works again the same thing happens do u think it is the T.C.O any ideas hope to here from u soon Derek
Hi Doc,My mate was taking a shower gainsborough 9.5 soveriegn and it made a banging noise and black water came out for a few seconds,now its only luke warm ,wont get really hot. help pls
Hi guys
Shower will not turn on/off via unit start button, will only start if I turn the main switch on/off behind the shower wall. Any how to resolve
Suggestion
wow is it a black plastic tank?
hi i have a triton topaz t100si asprante shower. the flow of water has went low and is only warm regardless of turning dial from fully hot to fully cold it still comes out warm with low flow. removed the hose and still no diff. removed the inlet pipe and plenty pressure. i have removed the inlet filter but was clear, tested the ohms on the heater of this 10.5kw shower and getting a reading of 11 ohms on both elements. could it be the flow valve at fault and if so can i buy one from yourself.
Hi I have triton Inscription electric shower. It started to trip fuse in a main board. By testing with multimeter both elements show 14/16 ohms. It is running on cold so solenoid not an issue. Can TCO be a problem? Does it trip fuse? Or it's still heating element?
Have another thought if it makes a difference that heating tank is full of water. Do I get right reading,because I read ohms, by checking one element pole with another's element pole
Is a plastic or a copper heating element (the cylinder) safer if the heater is faulty? Safer to prevent electrocution when the heater is faulty. Thanks
Hi Jason, George has covered your question in our livestream last week, hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/bBX3zJgI9dU/видео.htmlm34s
Check out how to test a heating tank element inside your electric shower with our video: bit.ly/1ds42eJ
HI THERE DOC COULD YOU PLEASE TELL me HOW MUCH IT IS FOR HEATER TANK FOR MY TRITON T80Zff shower thanks
very informative. However, I had to insert the black probe onto the brown supply lead to get readings from the heating elements. There were 3 elements and each gave resistance readings of approximately 4.96k ohms. When I tried the blue wire the readings were 0. My shower is a Bristan B85. Now I am puzzled! Any explanation? Have I read it wrong? The shower works fine
Mmmm! There are only two elements in this shower there two wires / elements going into the heating tank and two coming out, however the two that are coming out are joined/ welded together.
So you need the black probe on to the blue wire going into the shower and the red probe on each of the two elements that go into the shower (Not the ones that are joined together) usually if you have a faulty element you will have one with a resistance reading one with no resistance ( 0.0k Homs)
Hi, I have one of these showers and we live in a very hard water area. When I installed our new shower, I also installed one of the electrolytic scale inhibitors just after the main stop cock. It has hardly made any difference, just that the lime scale seems to be a little bit more powder like and the clumps are smaller.
Anyway if I was to remove the shower from the wall and then try and fill it with limescale remover solution, would this work. I guess the problem is forcing the solution all the way into the heating chamber.
bogmasher. I used to be replacing heater unit due to lime scale. Solved the problem by switching to cold for 4/5 seconds, Now they make showers with a cool down before the shower switches off. The higher the water is heated the more lime scale is produced, switching off from hot I believe causes the water in the tank to be super heated thus more lime scale.
Hi, Ive recently fitted a Gainsborough 10.5se shower. When switched off, water continues to drip from the shower head, (one drip ever 20 seconds) Can you please tell me why this is happening, many thanks Colin
It may be that the solenoid is faulty. With these showers there are few user serviceable parts and the solenoid is one of these, so a new engine may be needed.
Hello Doc,
I have moved to a rented property where a Gainsborough 8.5se is installed. Now when in shower on the water only comes out hot regardless of what temp i have kept the control knob on....I was thinking to change the whole shower engine ??
Check that the head and hose are not blocked. If no the a new engine maybe needed.
hi I have a triton amber shower and the water is coming out very slow I have cleaned the shower head and hose and its still the same any sugestions
You may have a faulty stabiliser valve.
Hi shower doctor. l got galaxy aqua 3000 and the water its to hot what parts of the shower l must change . no matter if it is in cold or warm medim position remains always very hot water .
Hi Alencar,
The things to check first are:
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
The Shower Doctor
hi i have a triton t80 gsi and it has decided to not give me any hot water,Pressure is good and the filter is not blocked.Any ideas what it could be thanks
Hi Harriet, if your shower is only producing cold water then it sounds like your thermal cut out switch (TCO) has failed for some reason. This part is a safety device and normally cuts the power to the heating elements when the water overheats inside the shower.
Normally you would be experiencing temperature or flow problems running up to this part failing. Was this the case or was the shower working as normal?
Reasons for the shower over heating could be one of the following:
The water board are working in your area and the pressure is lower or the water is turned off
The Stop tap to the shower is not fully open
The filter is blocked (which you have already checked)
You have a leak inside the shower coming from the stabilser valve / pressure switch
Wires are melting inside the shower.
If you do find you have a leak from the stabilising valve then this can be replaced with this item in the link provided - www.showerdoc.com/triton-stabilising-valve-p22640800
If your shower wasn’t experiencing any of the above symptoms before the TCO failed then you should get away with fitting a new TCO which can be found via this link provided - www.showerdoc.com/triton-tco-t80z-new-22012340
ruclips.net/video/_zi8JbEMYMs/видео.html
If when this TCO is fitted it cuts the hot water again to cold then you will have an underlying issue and it will eventually fail this part again. If this is the case you will need to get in touch once again before this happens.
If it works ok then it was obviously a drop in pressure or this part just decided to fail.
The Shower Doctor yes it was going hot and cold.Thanks is it expensive to replace?The unit is only 2 years old.Just wondering what could cause this.Thanks again
I’ve got the same problem, Triton Enrich. Checked the elements exactly as you’ve shown. They are both showing 11 ohms.... no hot water at all on any setting. The prd is working ok. Any ideas on any further testing?
Thanks for the video. RCD was tripping as soon as I turned the Power knob to heat, so I had to shower in cold water for a while. However, I turned the Power knob to the first heater setting today and it didn't trip the rcd? Case of humidity/moisture inside the heater can?
hi
hi i have a triton cara shower that is running cold ive checked the TCO thats good and ive also checked the heating tank element they are both giving a reading of .012 is this likely or is there another problem as ive seen where you said they should both have different readings thanks for any help you can give
There is usually a 2-3 ohm difference between the readings on the elements. If the shower is hot then cold it points to a flow problem. This shower needs 1 bar dynamic and a flow of 6 litres a minute minimum to work properly. If these are fine then you may have a faulty Stabilizer valve.
The Shower Doctor the shower has been fine for years but now it wont get hot it stay's cold no matter what temp is selected.
Eddy Flynn May seem like a silly question, but did you check to see if there is 230-240v at the connector block in the shower?
The Shower Doctor yes it may seem a silly question, (not as silly as i should of checked that first though) but that was the problem and the arcing sound when the shower is in use has also gone thank you so much for you help all tightened up now and the shower is working fine .
1:07 😱
Shower Doctor TV - Testing a heating tank element inside an electric shower:
Hello. What setting do I put my multimeter on to test the element please? My shower has recently decided that it wont heat up past 30degrees. I'm working my way through your videos trying to find the problem! Thank you.
+mark taylor I have the same problem recently. Can you please advice me how to check? I am trying to figure out how to use a multimeter as well. :(
how much does it cost for heating tank for triton T80Zff
Hi Jimmy, these cost between £60-£80 on our website, depending on the power rating. Here's the full spares list for this model: bit.ly/2j7FZ9M
hi doc could you tell me if the T80Z and T80Zff ARE THE SAME
These are 2 different showers Jimmy. If you're unsure which one you have give us a call on 0131 538 4343 and we'll do our best to advise you on the correct part.
Great video. Question - Got a Mira Go shower. With the temperature turned full up, we only get luke warm water. Would you like to suggest which part might be the problem?
It's likely to be a faulty heating element inside the heating tank. If you can follow this video process you can find out for sure.
Thanks. You were of course right. Time for a new shower!