S2 E42 Laser Cut Station Building | Creality Falcon2 Pro 60w
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Hello Everyone,
In this video I put together a kit of parts for a model station building. The kit was produced using the Creality Falcon2 60W laser machine.
Check it out here: store.creality...
In the video I cover some of my design thinking and show some of the cut parts being built-up into a section of the model.
Sadly, time pressures have got in the way of fully completing the model, but it's nearly there. In the next part I'll go into more detail of how the brickwork skin is applied and look in-detail at the windows and doors and show how they have been made and the materials used etc.
Until then, thanks for watching,
James
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Obvious now that you say it,but sticking to a 3 x 1 x 1.5mm brick makes it so much easier. I've been working on a small structure using pre war size bricks and it's a total pain and no one is going to notice, might start over.
Again obvious now but splitting the material thickness is the way to go.
Still to do my first laser cut building.
Hopefully more of these type of videos to came. Thanks
so much appreciated chum, cheers Paul
This has to be the most superbly detailed laser cut model I’ve seen to date.
I like how you tackled the issue of those castellated joints, it’s one major issue I have with kits, and I do find them disturbing, so I do walk away from those models.
I have wondered if laser cutter manufacturers could incorporate a pivoting laser head to cut mitred angles as part of the process.
Some high end metal cutting lasers do actually have pivoting heads, alternatively you can actually pivot the cutting surface under the laser using devices normally intended for engraving curved surfaces
Thank you for your compliment. This is one of my more simple models really. But it does incorporate some useful design thinking which I hope others find thought provoking.
Thank you for watching,
James
Wow…just wow! I love your style of production! Im a previous customer of yours…the ballast tool. Laser cutting my own buildings is something that very much interests me. Im inspired!
That kit you are building looks fantastic
Thank you so much. :D
What a great interesting video. So you teach…. That explains your calm informative presentation, which even I can get to grips with what’s going on. The students of your day job are lucky to have you.
I do have a question, I’m probably wrong, but it wasn’t mentioned; if you have an inner and overlaid outer wall the outside one has to have slightly longer dimensions?….. it can’t be the same length can it?
Can’t wait for the next one, I don’t watch every episode, only those that take my interest, but I am a subscriber.
Thank you, and yes the outer panels are slightly larger than the inner ones. I'll cover how I go about sizing them in the next video as it's not a straightforward as it might appear as the 1mm MDF varies in thickness from about 0.8 - 1.2mm. I have to check each sheet before cutting to get the brick bonding to match up properly.
As for my students, they are quite ambivalent to my teaching most would far prefer to have someone else teaching them I'm sure. :D
Thanks for watchning,
James
Another Masterclass , Excellent James.
Thank you Steven, that's very kind.
Very enjoyable video James! Love to get hold of one of these kits to build! Any plans to make them available?
Thanks!👏👏👏
Thanks! :D
I'd no plans to make these available, but as there has been some interest I shall think about maybe doing a limited run. I'll post an update if I decide to do so when part 2 comes out.
As always, thanks for watching,
James
Hi James. There hasn't been a video from Bexhill West for a while and I am glad that you are uploading again! This is an interesting video going over all the salient things to watch out for when designing a laser-cut kit! A long while ago I was at Robertsbridge and I met two men who were researching station buildings for Hornby. I suggested they do Battle. They said the had been there but it was too large! They settled on Frant, and didn't do Robertsbridge station, but they did Robertsbridge signal box. Any station building made true to scale in OO is likely to be too large to go on most people's layouts. Therefore I think you should consider doing a kit in TT:120 scale. How about Warrior Square? You would have plenty of time to take photographs and measurements, and you can always go back and take a look! Thanks for uploading.
Theoretically, once the CAD work has been done, the parts could be cut to any scale, although allowances would have to be made for material thickness. As it happens, I have drawn some bits of Warrior Square station, as I've long thought the station would make a nice model. It's on my (long) list of interesting projects to have a go at one day - along with the original SER Hastings station and the shed at West St. Leonards. I could do with some more spare time. :D
Thanks for watching,
James
And as always, very informative.
Thank you so much.
Hi James, absolutely fabulous design and execution! I have used a CO2 laser in the past but have just bought a Falcon2 22w and have started with etching paved platforms and edge stones. Also worked on stone platform walls - etched from a photograph of rough stonework. I am fairly happy with those but was considering the approach to the station building and goods shed - you have given me the answer! Thanks!!!
Someone else has asked about how you mitre the corners, I am also interested in the technique. I had intended to cut the last 0.5mm of each mortar joint right through the out board thus showing the joint on the return face. The worked when I used the CO2.
Anyway, I am looking forward to you next video!
Hi, thanks for your interest, and kind comment. I form the mitres by hand-sanding on a block - full details next time. I too cut the mortar joints at reveals around windows etc and it makes a big difference to the realism of the model. I generally cut .25mm. Again I'll show this in part 2.
With regard to stone, I've been experimenting a lot with recreating this recently and I have to say I prefer Co2 lasers over diodes for this task, as the Co2 laser will achieve variable depth using the greyscale option in Lightburn, whereas a diode laser doesn't. That said, I think the Falcon2 is an excellent machine - I like stuff which just works.
Thanks for watching,
James
Very nice job.
Thank you, I'm pleased you like it. I'm looking forward to sharing the final product.
Thanks for watching,
James
Fascinating
Very good piece of work well done. Have you ever thought of printing the floor on photo card? Scaling a buildings features from a set distance I think it would be unlikely that the parquet flooring butt joints would show. Just a thought.
That's a great idea, and yes the joints in the flooring are quite obvious. However, when finished with several coats of Johnsons Klear and viewed through a cracked-open door the texture looks quite convincing. I suspect I'll be the only one who notices though. I experimented with different flooring styles in each of the three blocks of this build, and managed to cut one of them back to front. Rather than re-doing it, I fitted it upside down so the floorboards face the ground - don't tell anyone though. I'll use your photo card suggestion to effect a repair. :D
Thanks for watching,
James
Wow James, that’s done it, laser cutter for me, I’m a convert.
In comparison, assumed weights for your model, against the likes of styrene for example, how does it stack up ?
Thanks so much, best regards
Hi, in this case I'm using MDF which is heavier, but not massively so.
All the best,
James
Hi James, it's all well and good telling people to mitre the corners but not telling them how you do so is a bit of a bugger, I would imagine you sand them down maybe with a disk sander rather than trying to saw them in a mitre box ?
Hi David, I will cover how I form the mitres when I complete the model in part 2. But in short, I use an emery board and a 'shooting block' which is simply a block of timber with a bevel. I hold the part and the block in a vice and form the mitre by hand. I'm not a fan of disc sanders for this task and much prefer a belt for work like this as they give a consistent 'grit-speed' across their width, which makes it easier to keep the edge square. However, as I say in this case I did them by hand which takes no time at all as the material is only 1mm thick.
Thanks for watching,
James
@@BexhillWest Hi James, I remember you talking about doing your own etched brass, something I came across the other day was the suggestion that you can paint the mask with an etch resistant paint and laser off the paint rather than using a photo etch technique worth experimenting with ?
Nice video - any news on the turntable control system ?
Nothing to report just yet I'm afraid. I'll keep you posted though when there is some news.
Thanks for watching,
James
@@BexhillWest Many thanks - do please keep me posted.
Did you know that Lightburn has a feature to do the gaps for keeping the large pieces attached to the “spruce”?
That's right, it does. However I have become used to placing them manually as the control software of the machine I've been using at work for years does not have the feature. It's a good tip though, thanks for mentioning it.
James
If the brick dimensions are 3 x 1 x 1.5 mm (L x H x W), and a Queen Closer is a "brick cut lengthways down the middle" does that mean the Queen Closer is drawn 0.75 mm wide?
And do you make any provision for the total mortar depth in a complete wall (i.e. What width line do you use to draw the bricks?)?
Just realised the line width drawn doesn't matter in this instance because it is dependent on the minium laser beam width??
Hi Bob, yes, that's correct 0.75mm for the queen closer width.
And again, yes, the width of the mortar line is determined by the kerf or width of the laser beam.
I've found the kerf width of the 60W setting to be ideal for brickwork.
Thanks for watching,
James
Hi James, a highly detailed and impressive building that I know very well as I live not far from Evesham and work in an around the town. The reference material that you used to produce this, does it show the LMS station, which was situated to the side, on different lines? Evesham was, and still is, a GWR station, but the LMS line from Tewkesbury to Stratford I think, used to connect at Evesham. I was born and still live in Eckington which is on the LMS line from Cheltenham to Birmingham. I would like to model that very station but I'm finding it hard to find any plans or drawings. One book I did find it mentioned in showed a few different pictures to the one's that I had already seen, although the description and dates mentioned were incorrect. It said that the station closed in 1950 something, but I was born in 1960 and clearly remember catching a train from there and indeed the goods yard was mine and my brothers play area, the shunter driver used to let us get in the cab and he would take us onto the mainline were we would jump off at the closed crossing gates, closed by my friends dad who was the signal man, and run back though the allotments back into the sidings awaiting another go, very happy memories of a sadly missed bygone age. Anyway I digress, keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing the next instalment, and like another commenter mentioned, are you going to make this item available to purchase?, Lawrence
Hi Lawrence,
Yes this is the old Midland station building which I think is lovely piece of architecture.
I don't know of the station at Eckington, and can't recall reading about it in any of my reference books, but I will have a look. Does the station building still exist or has it sadly been demolished.
It is fascinating to read your happy memories - oh how times have changed. You and your brother must have had such fun. How nice to that the shunter driver would indulge you both. :) Good luck with your model, feel free to email me if you think I can be of any help. makeitminiature@outlook.com
As for making my kit available, I hadn't planned to, but a limited run could be doable. I'll give it some thought.
Thanks for watching,
James
@BexhillWest Hi James, no, nothing is left of the old station or building, just fading memories, I'm afraid to say. The architecture around the late 1800's, early 1900s, was far more intricate and interesting than what we produce today, sorry to have to say that with you being a brick layers lecturer!!
@@user-vg2uu3ip8m I couldn't agree more, even mundane subjects such as brick gate piers all seemed to have an elegance derived from sympathetic use and knowledge of the materials. So sad when such things are no more.
Hi James. Please could you tell us what 2D software you use for drawing your buildings?
Thank you.
Hi Peter,
In the video I am using a piece of software called '2d Design' by Techsoft, which is popular in schools. I like it very much. However, I regularly use a variety of different pieces of software and can highly recommend FreeCAD as a no-cost alternative.
All the best,
James
Great to see such lovely modelling. Your tips on using two layers to get inside and outside detail is very clever. Also using another layer to do the different coloured panelling. You’ve given me much to think about. Thanks for sharing.