OK Seven years later and this topic has come up gain (in my little brain). I have a Murray mower that is acting just wacky. It may not be this but I though of this. Thanks my friend. I still have that other coil in my hoard and yes itis labeled.
Thank you for the video Got Kawasaki fh770d running on one cylinder ordered two coils neither got ohm reading on plug wire ordered two more both got reading Installed coils no spark on one side Disconnected kill wire still no spark and now no spark on either can magnets go bad
It's possible yes. But not likely to happen unless you see scoring on the magnet surface which would indicate a rub which can leech the magnetism due to frictional heat being built up due to the rub. Zip~
ZVS hi on that flywheel they have 2 set of magnets 🧲 correct opposite of one another on that flywheel. Are one set stronger than the other or they both have a strong magnification if so mind do not and is a contributing factor to my backfiring when I released the brakes on a all wheel drive push mower??? I don't think my coil is bad but the spark plug wire is worn down to the barest off those engine fins!
Interestingly I have a 1979 engine NS flywheel magnet. Can you help me with the part numbers for each coil? If I understand you correctly the button coil works with a SN flywheel and the early coil without button works with NS. My engine has always had trouble starting and taking a lot of throttle. Maybe it's because I have the button coil on it?
Do you know if this is the same setup for the Briggs opposed twins? I have one out of a 582 with points but I want to convert it to electronic ignition
Nice one Zip. I would not have had any idea , especially if both fit the engine. Hope your back gets better soon. Been there many times myself and not pleasant.
Thanks Arcie. I'm on the road to recovery. Fortunately, I'm very accustomed to throwing my back out and how to cope with it. 20 years with back issues teached even the most hardened and stubborn dogs lol. Cheers!! Glad you enjoyed the video! Zip~
Zippo - Thanks for the great video, but please clarify: At the 5:05 mark of your video, you say that the engine magnet pictured in the video is: "South to the outside, North to the inside." Isn't that engine magnet pictured in the video actually a "North to the outside and South to the inside?" In your demonstration, the "N Arrow" of the compass is pointing away from the outside of the magnet, so doesn't that mean that the outside of the magnet is "North to the outside?"
What is the POLARITY of each cable to the 2 cylinder Briggs engine spark plugs? How does the MODERN Magnetron work for both cylinders? High volts + and high volts _ with one magnet flywheel?
My extra 17HP Briggs flywheel has north pole Magnet facing outside. I wish to change magnet to South field facing out. How? This is just for bench testing. (not mowing lawn.) center screw is removable.Where do i get same size magnet with proper curve?
does this magnet polarity orientation just apply to Briggs engines. I have a CS 40 John Deere chainsaw that I just got a new coil for, and has a very weak spark and the engine just wont start. I was going to purchase another flywheel as I thought maybe the magnets got too weak
I'm curious about the North - South / South - North flywheels and having a NON-matching/correct coil. So you're saying there can still be a spark? Although weak....but still a spark?
Depending on the engine your Mag is designed for depends on the polarity of the magnets. If you're not sure, there are chat forums on Facebook with members that can help you in real time. Zip~
Hey, thanks for the video but I am a bit confused. My elementary understanding of magnets is opposite poles attract. At around the 5 minute mark of your video, the compass shows the south pole attracting to the flywheel. Would that then mean that the outside pole of the flywheel magnet is north ? You say that the outside pole of the flywheel magnet is south.
I was turned around there Dave. You are correct. The basis of the explanation was there, but I did misspeak and should have said North to South. My apologies if this was misleading. Cheers! And thanks for catching this! Zip~
In fact we call magnetic north to be the direction a (right hand rule electromagnet) magnet would point. This means that our Earth "north" magnetic pole is actually the magnetic south pole of the Earth core magnetic dynamo system. So in Zippo's experiment, his needle pointed away from the flywheel. This suggests that the flywheel magnet outer side is actually the North pole of a magnet.
Another issue us scrap yard rats have to deal with when robbing parts of junkyard lawn mowers is that most small engines that have been run under the big crane electromagnets have had the permanent magnets in the flywheels either weakened or totally wiped out which means if you like to sang spare magnetos off junk engines or whole engines you may find that when tested for spark at the yard or when you get them home they don't show any as if the magneto is bad. Odds are the magneto itself is fine. The magnets are just too weakened from the electromagnet ride to the pile to get it to fire the spark plug hard enough to be seen in broad daylight.
VERY Good point tech!! I never gave that a thought. It could very well demagnetize the flywheel magnets if picked up with their big electromagnets. Then you would be in the market for a flywheel which would defeat the whole purpose. I'll keep that in mind if I ever find a scrap yard gem. Cheers! Zip~
Hey zippo I got a 1960 Briggs 23k model motor I got a new electronic ignition part number 398811 an can't get any fire wether I put the ignition on either way any advice
Thanks Moto! Back is on the mend and feeling better. About 80% now. Had a young Zippo fan and his dad stop by for a visit yesterday. I love that these youngsters are getting into these machines! Cheers! Zip~
Yea, that is cool for sure. Since I am now looking for work I looked at maybe starting my own small engine repair shop but after looking at the competition its just not going to happen. But what I found out is there are a number of young kids truly interested in it and that really surprised me. Well glad your back is getting better, its the waiting that sucks. Hope you have a good weekend!
Thanks Moto! And n the topic of small engine repair. If you're good, honest and timely. You CAN succeed as a small engine mechanic. The key is to NOT be greedy. Do a good service at a fair price and a repair you would be proud of. I don't like return customers for the same issue. So, do it right, let the customer know exactly what you will be doing and set a shop rate that pisses off the brick and mortar guys. Don't advertise on CL...use FB and RUclips and word of mouth will sell you all on its own. I don't do this for a living, but I very well could if I wasn't a slave to my back issues. If I get a part for $4.00, I sell that part for $4.00. I'm only paid for my time, and then....I just tell my customers, Pay me what you think the repair was worth. You would be amazed how generous people are because you are being generous. And....yes, every once in a while there's a dill hole who stiffs you. I simply don't do anything for them after that. But in your case, set a bottom service fee. Know what the competition charges for full service. It's insanity! On a neighbors 2 year old John Deere, her Dealer service cost her $160.00!! All they did was inspect the machine, as it hadn't reached the hours for an oil change. They didn't even grease the chassis!! I saw no evidence that they did anything except replace the air filter. That's a $160.00 air filter! They didn't even sharpen the blades! So...know your competition and their work ethic. Go in and ask their service prices, blade sharpening, full lube and inspection etc. Then you can set a fair price point and start taking their business from them little by little. Zip~
I will take all that into account. I do know what you mean, the local JD service center charged a friend of mine and my wifes $500 and they did not even fix the issue, then when they came back the took the tractor for 2 weeks never even told her they were taking it. I made her get it back and bring it to me, a $60.00 spindle was all that was wrong and it was fixed and she has been happy ever since. The other local guy charges about the same amount (both have big brick and mortar stores) and I went in for a part and got attitude right from the moment I stepped up to the parts counter. Seems there is a lack of ethics with the local guys and because they have such big shops they have to charge stupid crazy money. Given that I am 53 its next to impossible to find a job doing what I do everyone wants 20 year olds fresh out of school so Ia m trying to find some way to start making a buck. The other issue I have that I would have to work out is I have not truck. I have a small trailer that needs work but no real way to haul it around and my HHR has a really small ecotech motor so I would be a bit concerned about using it for hauling given the transmission is also a weak transmission. However I am thinking about it and its not out of the question at this point. Thanks for the info sorry this was so long. :)
My flywheel has two magnets, the one you show draws the SOUTH NEEDLE like yours and My other draws the NORTH NEEDLE is this the way it should be , you did not show your second magnet being tested with the compass.. if this is correct do i need the points coil or electronic ignition Coil
That mag looks like the old E style, 3 core with the coil/s wound on the middle leg and 3 magnets on flywheel, if it is and hi-voltage side is bad, u can use it as an electro-magnet for experiments by using a lantern battery on points wire and the core.
Zippo I found you after trying to tackle getting my 66 landlord d23 running...o know this is an older video but I’m having a hell of a time.. I bought the newer magneto to bypass the points etc the old one was burnt up anyways. I reversed it to make the polarity right and I’m still getting very week spark... I can feel it but can’t see it? Do you know where I could be going wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and loving the videos!
If you're attempting this on a 23D engine, it will not work. Check your old coil (hopefully you still have it). Notice....There are THREE Legs on the coil? This coil cannot be replaced with a Magnetron solid state coil. You must use the original style and currently, no one is manufacturing the replacement coil winding. They are replaceable on the 23D coils. Mu suggestion is, put the original coil back in and try using a Nova II Ignition Module in place of the points. Keep us posted on your progress! Zip~
Hey my friend I have tried the nova 2 with the original magneto. I Also tried a battery powered ignition from your video. I went through all the wiring following your wiring video... still no spark... I just can’t figure it out?
With a battery ignition coil, you must use the points. The Nova II won't work with battery ignition. Points should be set to .020 +/- .003. Zip~ p.s. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. My notifications here on RUclips don't notify me of replies to existing comments unfortunately and often, I just have to stumble on them. With over 1,000 videos posted, this is a monumental task as I'm sure you can well imagine. To keep me posted, email me at ZippoVarga@gmail.com. Cheers again. Zip~
Im still a little confused. My old points style Briggs someone put an early magnetron in. I used my compass and the flywheel pulled south like yours. Is this the right magnetron in it? Thanks,, great videos.
Bypass the points (don't use them) and flip the Magnetron so the plug wire is facing to the left (opposite of what the coil says for correct placement) and give it a go. Zip~
I just put a new coil on my B&S 550 series mower and it still wont spark. 2.8 ohms on the coil and the magnet are active in the flywheel. 12 thou air gap. I guess I will pull the flywheel and look for cracks unless you have any other suggestions. Happy 4th!
I have an old Sears B&S cast iron engine on a home made log splitter. Have no spark, put new coil, points & condenser and still have no spark. Did your compass test and the compass points North to the flywheel so I have a North outside and a South inside magnet. Could the coil that was put on be the wrong coil? If so what would be the right coil? Sears engine # 243431 type 0742-01 code 7805101. Need help I don't want to buy a new engine. The old ones are better then the new ones!
Doesn"t seem like anyone answers comments here but Ill try anyhow. I have a Craftsman lt1000 had to replace battery after this long winter. For some reason the starter is polarized the wrong way. It spins opposite failing to kick out the gear to engage the fly wheel and crank the motor. Took out starter bench tested it and it is good it spins the correct way and kicks out the gear. Installed it is opposite therefore gear never engages the flywheel. Would this process tell me the coil itself is bad ?
ZippoVarga the new battery is charged correctly red is positive black is negative. The positive goes directly to starter as it should. Changing cables will not fix the issue and possibly fry diodes, etc,,,something is failing and making the starter go backwards. Relay, coil, I don't know...
Greg. The only thing that would make the starter go backwards is reversed polarity. With the battery disconnected, use jumper cables. Negative to a good ground and touch the other directly to the starter post and see if the starter spins correctly. If so, somewhere along the line the power is getting crossed. Trace the cables to their respective connection points to determine the root cause of the reversed polarity. It doesn't make sense to me that the starter spins correctly when out of the machine, but spins in the opposite direction when installed. The only way this can happen is reversed polarity. The polarity to the starter somehow is reversed. You can try a number of tests with a test light to determine where the wires are crossed. I've never experienced a starter reversing its own polarity. It has four brushes that contact the commutator to the armature. Two receive positive current via the positive battery cable post and the frame of the starter is the ground which supplies current to the two opposing brushes. A test light will tell you where the current is incorrect. Connect a test light to a good ground and trace the positive battery cable all the way through the system. This would include the first stop at the starter solenoid battery in post, then with the cable disconnected from the starter, engage the starter key and test that lead at the end that connects to the starter. The light should illuminate in both cases. Then, test the engines polarity with the test light in the same manner. Test light connected to the negative terminal of the battery and touch the engine with the other. If the light illuminates, you have a positive ground situation that needs corrected. If, by some chance, the starter is a replacement, or has been tampered with in some manner within the brush plate, then the starter it self can be the culprit. Best of luck. This is an unusual situation for sure. Zip~
I appreciate your videos, but I have to admit this one I didn't understand. I have a vintage '75 10 hp Briggs cast cylinder, with the original coil and flywheel and my understanding is I would need to *either* have the flywheel reversed polarity, or install the new magnetron backwards - simply flip it. Your video almost sounded like the changed the polarity again so the new magnetrons would work with the old motors. But I don't think that is the case. So I am going to try reversing the magnetron first, then if it doesn't work flip it 180 degrees.
I posted this video some time ago. Since posting it I've learned you CAN Flip the Magnetron Coil and have success with them without the need to send in the flywheel. So...Keep us posted Baker! Zip~
Zippo! Love that you take the time to share so much, thank you. I did a coil swap to eliminate the points. Put the whole thing back together and still no spark. I think I hooked up a wire i should not of from the coil maybe a kill wire? 73 montgomery wards gilson hydro 16. Is there any way to check my spark before reassembling this engine on the tractor when I tear this back down? Took a long time to do, mainly due to my limited knowledge and mechanical experience. Used the newest style coil so no sending in flywheel. Getting ready to make this my winter project, thank you.
Well thanks so much Sean. (Is Sean OK?) Great video. I wondered how i got a weak spark. The more I learn the more I learn. Thanks. I have got to go, my new grandson's family needs me. I will do a reference to this video from my coil video later. Bruce
The fact that the compass attracts to the South pole indicates a north outer facing pole, and I'm aware of that. For ease of concept understanding, I proposed the poles as they attract, not their actual pole orientation. You and I and a handful of others know the properties of magnetic pull, but as a general rule, most see and understand it as I explained it. I pondered this for some time as well as researched other videos and most introduced the magnetic pole (non scientific) as it was attracted....i.e. North-North, South-South instead of the correct North-South, South-North as it truly is. We've got the scientific world and the practical and the understanding between the two is...well...lol...North and South. So I flipped to the other side for a clearer understanding. Cheers!! Zip~
the part that's confusing me is how does Briggs define it. do they use the scientific or how the compass attracts. I have an older briggs and the outer magnet pulls south and yet it was running an early magnetron. from the way I understand it, this shouldn't work.,,but it did.
Just want to make one comment on the north-south using the compass if your compass says South that means it's facing to the north cuz Opposites attract that's my understanding God bless
Thanks for your reply but I have another question I watched other videos and some videos it seems that the magnets are north and south facing out but I believe in your video it showed only one side facing out of both magnets am I correct thanks God bless
Okay so the north-south both facing out would that be the magnetron or the points plugs and condenser I don't have a motor yet to find out but I'm going to attempt to charge a capacitor with a magnetron motor and use it as a battery to turn over a Joseph Newman style motor after I gut the the gas motor thanks for your help God bless
So you're essentially making a buzz box without the need for a battery? If I'm understanding that correctly, that's Awesome! And a great idea! The opposing poles, at this point with out an engine in front of me, I would assume (which is never a good idea) that it would be for the Magnetron fired engines. I can confirm the next time I'm at the shop and can dissect an engine for you. Logically speaking, the opposing fields makes sense, one is a trigger for the electronic ignition and the other is for the actual firing of the plug. But I will confirm before committing to an answer over an assumption. Cheers Ed and I'm looking forward to seeing the magnetron fired buzz box in action! I don't see why it wouldn't work providing the timing is correct. That should be easy enough to time the spark to TDC on the compression stroke via a chain between equal toothed sprockets. Zip~
Thank you for the lesson ZippoVarga. Now I know more things about Briggs magnet polarity and electronic ignition too. VF
Good explanation. Glad you made this video. Thanks!
OK Seven years later and this topic has come up gain (in my little brain). I have a Murray mower that is acting just wacky. It may not be this but I though of this. Thanks my friend. I still have that other coil in my hoard and yes itis labeled.
Have you ever done a video showing points-to-electronic conversion where you add the external transistor and trigger coil to the original armature?
Not specifically, no, but I do have a couple of those systems, so when one presents itself useful I'll definitely turn the camera on. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for the information!!!
Thank you for the video
Got Kawasaki fh770d running on one cylinder ordered two coils neither got ohm reading on plug wire ordered two more both got reading
Installed coils no spark on one side
Disconnected kill wire still no spark and now no spark on either can magnets go bad
It's possible yes. But not likely to happen unless you see scoring on the magnet surface which would indicate a rub which can leech the magnetism due to frictional heat being built up due to the rub. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga does have shiny spot on magnet
Plethora of great info here.
Thanks sixty five! I try! Watched your hydrostatic transaxle rebuild series yesterday. Great info there for future needs! Cheers!! Zip~
ZVS hi on that flywheel they have 2 set of magnets 🧲 correct opposite of one another on that flywheel. Are one set stronger than the other or they both have a strong magnification if so mind do not and is a contributing factor to my backfiring when I released the brakes on a all wheel drive push mower??? I don't think my coil is bad but the spark plug wire is worn down to the barest off those engine fins!
Interestingly I have a 1979 engine NS flywheel magnet. Can you help me with the part numbers for each coil? If I understand you correctly the button coil works with a SN flywheel and the early coil without button works with NS. My engine has always had trouble starting and taking a lot of throttle. Maybe it's because I have the button coil on it?
Do you know if this is the same setup for the Briggs opposed twins? I have one out of a 582 with points but I want to convert it to electronic ignition
Nice one Zip. I would not have had any idea , especially if both fit the engine. Hope your back gets better soon. Been there many times myself and not pleasant.
Thanks Arcie. I'm on the road to recovery. Fortunately, I'm very accustomed to throwing my back out and how to cope with it. 20 years with back issues teached even the most hardened and stubborn dogs lol. Cheers!! Glad you enjoyed the video! Zip~
I listen to your reply twice about the date and if I’m not mistaken it should be June instead of July
Thanks Zip .Good to know man
Zippo - Thanks for the great video, but please clarify:
At the 5:05 mark of your video, you say that the engine magnet pictured in the video is: "South to the outside, North to the inside."
Isn't that engine magnet pictured in the video actually a "North to the outside and South to the inside?"
In your demonstration, the "N Arrow" of the compass is pointing away from the outside of the magnet, so doesn't that mean that the outside of the magnet is "North to the outside?"
That is correct, I misspoke! Zip~
Thank You Zip - I have one of these 1980 engines and without your video, I could not figure out why the new coil did not work.
VERY informative.
Watching your :Who is" vid now
A lot of parallels
What is the POLARITY of each cable to the 2 cylinder Briggs engine spark plugs? How does the MODERN Magnetron work for both cylinders? High volts + and high volts _ with one magnet flywheel?
Most (not all) but most coils can be flipped over to correct the problem. I've had to do this a few times on older engines.
My extra 17HP Briggs flywheel has north pole Magnet facing outside. I wish to change magnet to South field facing out. How? This is just for bench testing. (not mowing lawn.) center screw is removable.Where do i get same size magnet with proper curve?
You can send in the flywheel to Briggs and they will reverse the polarity for you. Zip~
Thanks man! I learned a lot. I've come across this problem plenty of times.
does this magnet polarity orientation just apply to Briggs engines. I have a CS 40 John Deere chainsaw that I just got a new coil for, and has a very weak spark and the engine just wont start. I was going to purchase another flywheel as I thought maybe the magnets got too weak
I'm curious about the North - South / South - North flywheels and having a NON-matching/correct coil. So you're saying there can still be a spark? Although weak....but still a spark?
Depending on the engine your Mag is designed for depends on the polarity of the magnets. If you're not sure, there are chat forums on Facebook with members that can help you in real time. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I actually found out that I was using a 2-magnet flywheel.....and that was my problem. Thanks!
I have a craftsman YT3000 B&S model 441877. any thing special about my Mag?
Hey, thanks for the video but I am a bit confused. My elementary understanding of magnets is opposite poles attract. At around the 5 minute mark of your video, the compass shows the south pole attracting to the flywheel. Would that then mean that the outside pole of the flywheel magnet is north ? You say that the outside pole of the flywheel magnet is south.
I was turned around there Dave. You are correct. The basis of the explanation was there, but I did misspeak and should have said North to South. My apologies if this was misleading. Cheers! And thanks for catching this! Zip~
In fact we call magnetic north to be the direction a (right hand rule electromagnet) magnet would point. This means that our Earth "north" magnetic pole is actually the magnetic south pole of the Earth core magnetic dynamo system. So in Zippo's experiment, his needle pointed away from the flywheel. This suggests that the flywheel magnet outer side is actually the North pole of a magnet.
Another issue us scrap yard rats have to deal with when robbing parts of junkyard lawn mowers is that most small engines that have been run under the big crane electromagnets have had the permanent magnets in the flywheels either weakened or totally wiped out which means if you like to sang spare magnetos off junk engines or whole engines you may find that when tested for spark at the yard or when you get them home they don't show any as if the magneto is bad.
Odds are the magneto itself is fine. The magnets are just too weakened from the electromagnet ride to the pile to get it to fire the spark plug hard enough to be seen in broad daylight.
VERY Good point tech!! I never gave that a thought. It could very well demagnetize the flywheel magnets if picked up with their big electromagnets. Then you would be in the market for a flywheel which would defeat the whole purpose. I'll keep that in mind if I ever find a scrap yard gem. Cheers! Zip~
Hey zippo I got a 1960 Briggs 23k model motor I got a new electronic ignition part number 398811 an can't get any fire wether I put the ignition on either way any advice
Awesome explanation thanks for that info, take care of your back man!
Thanks Moto! Back is on the mend and feeling better. About 80% now. Had a young Zippo fan and his dad stop by for a visit yesterday. I love that these youngsters are getting into these machines! Cheers! Zip~
Yea, that is cool for sure. Since I am now looking for work I looked at maybe starting my own small engine repair shop but after looking at the competition its just not going to happen. But what I found out is there are a number of young kids truly interested in it and that really surprised me. Well glad your back is getting better, its the waiting that sucks. Hope you have a good weekend!
Thanks Moto! And n the topic of small engine repair. If you're good, honest and timely. You CAN succeed as a small engine mechanic. The key is to NOT be greedy. Do a good service at a fair price and a repair you would be proud of. I don't like return customers for the same issue. So, do it right, let the customer know exactly what you will be doing and set a shop rate that pisses off the brick and mortar guys. Don't advertise on CL...use FB and RUclips and word of mouth will sell you all on its own. I don't do this for a living, but I very well could if I wasn't a slave to my back issues. If I get a part for $4.00, I sell that part for $4.00. I'm only paid for my time, and then....I just tell my customers, Pay me what you think the repair was worth. You would be amazed how generous people are because you are being generous. And....yes, every once in a while there's a dill hole who stiffs you. I simply don't do anything for them after that. But in your case, set a bottom service fee. Know what the competition charges for full service. It's insanity! On a neighbors 2 year old John Deere, her Dealer service cost her $160.00!! All they did was inspect the machine, as it hadn't reached the hours for an oil change. They didn't even grease the chassis!! I saw no evidence that they did anything except replace the air filter. That's a $160.00 air filter! They didn't even sharpen the blades! So...know your competition and their work ethic. Go in and ask their service prices, blade sharpening, full lube and inspection etc. Then you can set a fair price point and start taking their business from them little by little. Zip~
I will take all that into account. I do know what you mean, the local JD service center charged a friend of mine and my wifes $500 and they did not even fix the issue, then when they came back the took the tractor for 2 weeks never even told her they were taking it. I made her get it back and bring it to me, a $60.00 spindle was all that was wrong and it was fixed and she has been happy ever since. The other local guy charges about the same amount (both have big brick and mortar stores) and I went in for a part and got attitude right from the moment I stepped up to the parts counter. Seems there is a lack of ethics with the local guys and because they have such big shops they have to charge stupid crazy money. Given that I am 53 its next to impossible to find a job doing what I do everyone wants 20 year olds fresh out of school so Ia m trying to find some way to start making a buck. The other issue I have that I would have to work out is I have not truck. I have a small trailer that needs work but no real way to haul it around and my HHR has a really small ecotech motor so I would be a bit concerned about using it for hauling given the transmission is also a weak transmission. However I am thinking about it and its not out of the question at this point. Thanks for the info sorry this was so long. :)
You know me...I'm long winded, so your long reply is actually refreshing. Where there's a will there's always a way my Friend. Zip~
I'm sorry what's your condenser for keep your radio from having static
My flywheel has two magnets, the one you show draws the SOUTH NEEDLE like yours and My other draws the
NORTH NEEDLE is this the way it should be , you did not show your second magnet being tested with
the compass.. if this is correct do i need the points coil or electronic ignition Coil
That mag looks like the old E style, 3 core with the coil/s wound on the middle leg and 3
magnets on flywheel, if it is and hi-voltage side is bad, u can use it as an electro-magnet
for experiments by using a lantern battery on points wire and the core.
Cool information Raymond! Thanks! Zip~
Very informative thank you
Zippo I found you after trying to tackle getting my 66 landlord d23 running...o know this is an older video but I’m having a hell of a time.. I bought the newer magneto to bypass the points etc the old one was burnt up anyways. I reversed it to make the polarity right and I’m still getting very week spark... I can feel it but can’t see it? Do you know where I could be going wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and loving the videos!
If you're attempting this on a 23D engine, it will not work. Check your old coil (hopefully you still have it). Notice....There are THREE Legs on the coil? This coil cannot be replaced with a Magnetron solid state coil. You must use the original style and currently, no one is manufacturing the replacement coil winding. They are replaceable on the 23D coils. Mu suggestion is, put the original coil back in and try using a Nova II Ignition Module in place of the points. Keep us posted on your progress! Zip~
Hey my friend I have tried the nova 2 with the original magneto. I Also tried a battery powered ignition from your video. I went through all the wiring following your wiring video... still no spark... I just can’t figure it out?
With a battery ignition coil, you must use the points. The Nova II won't work with battery ignition. Points should be set to .020 +/- .003. Zip~ p.s. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. My notifications here on RUclips don't notify me of replies to existing comments unfortunately and often, I just have to stumble on them. With over 1,000 videos posted, this is a monumental task as I'm sure you can well imagine. To keep me posted, email me at ZippoVarga@gmail.com. Cheers again. Zip~
Im still a little confused. My old points style Briggs someone put an early magnetron in. I used my compass and the flywheel pulled south like yours. Is this the right magnetron in it? Thanks,, great videos.
Bypass the points (don't use them) and flip the Magnetron so the plug wire is facing to the left (opposite of what the coil says for correct placement) and give it a go. Zip~
I just put a new coil on my B&S 550 series mower and it still wont spark. 2.8 ohms on the coil and the magnet are active in the flywheel. 12 thou air gap. I guess I will pull the flywheel and look for cracks unless you have any other suggestions. Happy 4th!
thanks for the video. i watched bruces video on this it all helps
I have an old Sears B&S cast iron engine on a home made log splitter. Have no spark, put new coil, points & condenser and still have no spark. Did your compass test and the compass points North to the flywheel so I have a North outside and a South inside magnet. Could the coil that was put on be the wrong coil? If so what would be the right coil? Sears engine # 243431 type 0742-01 code 7805101. Need help I don't want to buy a new engine. The old ones are better then the new ones!
Doesn"t seem like anyone answers comments here but Ill try anyhow. I have a Craftsman lt1000 had to replace battery after this long winter. For some reason the starter is polarized the wrong way. It spins opposite failing to kick out the gear to engage the fly wheel and crank the motor. Took out starter bench tested it and it is good it spins the correct way and kicks out the gear. Installed it is opposite therefore gear never engages the flywheel. Would this process tell me the coil itself is bad ?
Reverse the battery cables and try again. Zip~
ZippoVarga the new battery is charged correctly red is positive black is negative. The positive goes directly to starter as it should. Changing cables will not fix the issue and possibly fry diodes, etc,,,something is failing and making the starter go backwards. Relay, coil, I don't know...
Greg. The only thing that would make the starter go backwards is reversed polarity. With the battery disconnected, use jumper cables. Negative to a good ground and touch the other directly to the starter post and see if the starter spins correctly. If so, somewhere along the line the power is getting crossed. Trace the cables to their respective connection points to determine the root cause of the reversed polarity. It doesn't make sense to me that the starter spins correctly when out of the machine, but spins in the opposite direction when installed. The only way this can happen is reversed polarity. The polarity to the starter somehow is reversed. You can try a number of tests with a test light to determine where the wires are crossed. I've never experienced a starter reversing its own polarity. It has four brushes that contact the commutator to the armature. Two receive positive current via the positive battery cable post and the frame of the starter is the ground which supplies current to the two opposing brushes. A test light will tell you where the current is incorrect. Connect a test light to a good ground and trace the positive battery cable all the way through the system. This would include the first stop at the starter solenoid battery in post, then with the cable disconnected from the starter, engage the starter key and test that lead at the end that connects to the starter. The light should illuminate in both cases. Then, test the engines polarity with the test light in the same manner. Test light connected to the negative terminal of the battery and touch the engine with the other. If the light illuminates, you have a positive ground situation that needs corrected. If, by some chance, the starter is a replacement, or has been tampered with in some manner within the brush plate, then the starter it self can be the culprit. Best of luck. This is an unusual situation for sure. Zip~
I appreciate your videos, but I have to admit this one I didn't understand. I have a vintage '75 10 hp Briggs cast cylinder, with the original coil and flywheel and my understanding is I would need to *either* have the flywheel reversed polarity, or install the new magnetron backwards - simply flip it. Your video almost sounded like the changed the polarity again so the new magnetrons would work with the old motors. But I don't think that is the case. So I am going to try reversing the magnetron first, then if it doesn't work flip it 180 degrees.
I posted this video some time ago. Since posting it I've learned you CAN Flip the Magnetron Coil and have success with them without the need to send in the flywheel. So...Keep us posted Baker! Zip~
Zippo! Love that you take the time to share so much, thank you. I did a coil swap to eliminate the points. Put the whole thing back together and still no spark. I think I hooked up a wire i should not of from the coil maybe a kill wire? 73 montgomery wards gilson hydro 16. Is there any way to check my spark before reassembling this engine on the tractor when I tear this back down? Took a long time to do, mainly due to my limited knowledge and mechanical experience. Used the newest style coil so no sending in flywheel. Getting ready to make this my winter project, thank you.
Do you happen to have the part number for the coil with the reverse polarity mad?
Any Magnetron coil (Later than 1988) is reverse polarity Brian. Zip~
What if it’s pre-1988 which coil wouldn’t use?
Without your engine numbers, It's impossible for me to say. Zip~
I've been shocked by a new points coil that was shocking a magnetron would probably be fun
How do fix that
Its south inside and north outside, because only unlike poles attract, therefore outside is NORTH.
You are correct, it was attracting North to South which opposes the true polarity. Zip~
great video, thanks for the onfo
how is that an "induction type" tester? it is a DIRECT type
The bulb is actually not breached by a filament, so it has to jump the breach. What would the correct term for that be? Zip~
Well thanks so much Sean. (Is Sean OK?) Great video. I wondered how i got a weak spark. The more I learn the more I learn. Thanks. I have got to go, my new grandson's family needs me. I will do a reference to this video from my coil video later.
Bruce
Sean is perfectly fine Bruce! I hope all is well with the family. Blessings from down South of the border! Sean~
Likewise Bruce Pender recommended I talk to you you were the Simplicity guy
With magnet's opposites attract so would it not be a north magnet
The fact that the compass attracts to the South pole indicates a north outer facing pole, and I'm aware of that. For ease of concept understanding, I proposed the poles as they attract, not their actual pole orientation. You and I and a handful of others know the properties of magnetic pull, but as a general rule, most see and understand it as I explained it. I pondered this for some time as well as researched other videos and most introduced the magnetic pole (non scientific) as it was attracted....i.e. North-North, South-South instead of the correct North-South, South-North as it truly is. We've got the scientific world and the practical and the understanding between the two is...well...lol...North and South. So I flipped to the other side for a clearer understanding. Cheers!! Zip~
the part that's confusing me is how does Briggs define it. do they use the scientific or how the compass attracts. I have an older briggs and the outer magnet pulls south and yet it was running an early magnetron. from the way I understand it, this shouldn't work.,,but it did.
an induction type tester would use a pickup coil
Just want to make one comment on the north-south using the compass if your compass says South that means it's facing to the north cuz Opposites attract that's my understanding God bless
You're exactly correct Ed, and I did fail to mention this fact in the video. Thanks for pointing it out!! Cheers and God Bless! Zip~
Thanks for your reply but I have another question I watched other videos and some videos it seems that the magnets are north and south facing out but I believe in your video it showed only one side facing out of both magnets am I correct thanks God bless
Correct. This is the difference between a points fired flywheel and the later model magnetron (point less) ignitions. Zip~
Okay so the north-south both facing out would that be the magnetron or the points plugs and condenser I don't have a motor yet to find out but I'm going to attempt to charge a capacitor with a magnetron motor and use it as a battery to turn over a Joseph Newman style motor after I gut the the gas motor thanks for your help God bless
So you're essentially making a buzz box without the need for a battery? If I'm understanding that correctly, that's Awesome! And a great idea! The opposing poles, at this point with out an engine in front of me, I would assume (which is never a good idea) that it would be for the Magnetron fired engines. I can confirm the next time I'm at the shop and can dissect an engine for you. Logically speaking, the opposing fields makes sense, one is a trigger for the electronic ignition and the other is for the actual firing of the plug. But I will confirm before committing to an answer over an assumption. Cheers Ed and I'm looking forward to seeing the magnetron fired buzz box in action! I don't see why it wouldn't work providing the timing is correct. That should be easy enough to time the spark to TDC on the compression stroke via a chain between equal toothed sprockets. Zip~
Hello / say orange to Blue blue would be sufficient orange would be insufficient Spark still there just takes more to fire move your points
A Magnetron is a device for generating microwaves ... nothing to do with ignition systems !!!
I didn't name it Graham, so I'd appreciate it if you wouldn't shoot the messenger here. Yell at Briggs & Stratton. Zip~
Your rant is misplaced here.
Hahaha tomatoe or tomato they're both the same