Why Your Plane Won't Work | Part Deux
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Rob discusses three additional reasons why his students cannot get their hand planes to work and tells you how to fix each problem.
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Excellent video. Thanks. I noticed your "wrap" on your screwdriver handles. I'm 70, and have been wrapping my hammer and other tool handles like that for over 50 years.
The wrap really helps, eh?
Hey Rob, Thank you so much for your awesome videos. You have totally changed my view on woodworking.
This video couldn't have come at a more opportune time. My dirt cheap Indian made Stanley knock-off just arrived today. And chance has it that it is an almost exact copy of the plane you just showed. Only made substantially worse. I already spent a couple of hours lapping the sole. About halfway done with that. The 2 legs of the frog differ by a t least a millimeter. The gap through which the blade protrudes isn´t perpendicular and the hole for the blade alignment adjuster is off center. The only way for the blade edge to sit parallel to the sole is by adjusting it to the extreme right, which means it actually touches the right edge of the gap. All in all a terrible purchase, but a proper plane costs 20x as much and is well beyond my means, so I guess I will be re-watching this video a few more times over the next few days while I attempt to make this thing perform at least somewhat descent.
For those wondering, I live in Brazil. Good tools are hard to come by and cost at least double what they are in the US.
So sorry you have to go throgh all that
Very informative. I thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Perfect timing for my tuning up my planes and for things I had not known. By the way, love the Hock blades.
Hock blades are good. Ron Hock prefers O-2 steel, I prefer A-2 steel
Thanks
Rob cosman is the best 👌
Well let's say pretty good and leave it at that!
Rob,
You have shown how to fix what I have have obsessed on the frog to body fitment without removing to mutch. How to on a # 6 no less, thankyou x3.
You are very welcome
I want to watch Rob restore an old wooden hand plane. He'll probably hate all the work, but we'll love watching it, haha!
Hello Rob, thank you very much for your videos. As I am planing to set up a little hobbyist workshop your tips are very valuable to me.
I own a pair of old Stanley Nr 4 planes which I am restoring - and I just figured that I could use some "fluid metal" epoxy to fill up those three unnecessary cavities on the old Stanley frogs (the odd shaped one a the bottom and the two oblong ones near the yolk), thus increasing the overall contact surface to the blade. Do you think it's with the effort?
Cheers!
I dont think so. I do not think it would significantly add any more stability than just ensuring the mating surface is flat. But what the heck give it a try and see.
Tks hippie Bob
you bet
I realy learned something..nerci!
Glad it was helpful
Rob, How thick is that piece of float glass? A lot of the stuff sold is so damn thin that it flexes under the weight of a plane or any pressure whatsoever? Do you remember where you got it?
3/4
So its better to lot mess with the side to side adjuster. In case you brake the casting
No I have broken so few, maybe 1% it is worth messing with them
Had to rewind. Did you say flint glass? Then saw float glass. Hint: say it distinctly if it’s important, and say it twice, spell it, add a caption.
Wow...that would take some much extra time when we are giving these videos away
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingSo, you make videos and don’t care about enough clarity to ensure your audience can understand your message? Don’t care for polite suggestions either?
I do watch EN Curtis some times, among other channels. He has commented more than once that Woodriver planes were junk. He just did another video about them, and he pretty much said they were pretty good comparing to the old ones. I asked, and have not heard back, that if his first Woodriver planes were before you got involved with them. He had the soles warp on the first ones he bought.
I have removed the lever for the lateral adjustment of the plane blade a few times. I do drill out a hole slightly bigger than the pin to tap it out. I did see one guy who made 2 parallel sanding strips with a slot in between them so he could sand it flat without removing the pin. That worked well.
Every one who buys a new plane should have a check list to run through to make sure it is functional. Vintage, antique, or brand new, I consider it important to always check. One of the worst planes I ever got was a Bridge City one. The sole was considerably out of flat, being concave. I sent it back and they sent me another one, and it had the exact same problem. Supposedly that problem is now 'fixed'. I won't try them again...
So the "V3's" and higher WoodRiver planes are the good ones. Great comment, thanks
Cool stuff. The sandpaper trick under the frog is a new idea to me. I'm going to try that next time.
A little tip on the lateral...use a small socket or nut under the lateral pin for support. Punch thr pin into the socket or nut. That way you're not flexing the frog metal while beating. Its often easier also to just drill out the pin and make some new ones out of a nail. I took a small diamond sharpener to a wire nail by using the drill press in low speed as a makeshift lathe. Put a little taper on the end and drive it home over a metal vice. Ding it to stay in place.
hey, so I've sharpened my plane blade, to ensure it was square and had a straight edge. Now if I set up my plane to take a cut about as deep as yours, and read the shaving to ensure the blade is exactly setup straight in the plane, only about 15mm hits the wood, doesn't matter if I plane on the right middle or left side of the blade. Can't seem to get that full width shaving. Is that a sign that the frog has a hollow? What I find strange is that the shaving comes of at any place on the blade, so that suggests that maybe the wood isn't flat enough and the blade in fact is straight. I find it very nice to get a really smooth finish on softwoods, and this is perfect for that goal but I'd love to get these full width shavings. also my floor is now full of shavings because I've tried and tried to get that wood flat enough, to get that full width shaving but it consistently gives me that 15mm shaving. Maybe it's a thing with this blade, it's only 2mm thick. In my country we got pretty affordable blades, these are 3,2mm thick. Probably I should consider going for these as the back of this blade is also flattened now a couple times, making it even a bit thinner. Maybe I can get away with not flatting the frog if I just buy a thicker blade
You can put pieces of sandpaper on either side of the mitre slot on your tablebsaw and lap that frog without having to remove the yoke and adjustment lever
This video just inspired me to check and correct my old Stanley planes. Maybe I’d better purchase a wood River plane as well. By watching this video I can see the value and thanks for the technical explanation in such an easy to understand demonstration.
I hope it helps you tune your plane into an awesome tool
I only have historic stanly and record planes and never had one vibrate or crack before. Am I lucky or was this a commercial 🤔.
You are lucky.
70% from mine stanley and record planes made chatter. I believe the rest 30% the ex owners fixed them.
Never had the issue from any of old stanley irons. Actually dont like thick irons in my planes. I have had to flatten the frog on some newer planes. On some really new planes I have had to build up the toe pad on a plane before becuase the maker only had the heel of the frog making contact.
I would say you tuned yours up well. Antique planes can be tuned up to work very well. My main point is it takes works and if you are new to woodworking and dont even know how to plane its really hard to know how to properly tune up a plane. Its like asking a someone who needs to learn to drive to go repair the car before they take driving lessons. If they don't know how to even drive you cannot expect them to know how to repair the car
Lucky perhaps. Full disclosure- I’m not a seasoned or accomplished or even hardly amateur level woodworker at this point as of yet. But I have problems ranging from lack of flatness of the sole to lack of good contact surfaces on the frog to frame fitment, adjustment lever problems, out of flat cutting irons, poorly fitted contact points for the chip iron to blade contact, poorly fitted contact surfaces for tote and knob fitment from wood to frame and so on with all my Stanley planes. All antique and or vintage Stanley’s ranging from 1890’s to idk 1960? #8 #7 #5 #4 1/2 jr (0r whatever it’s called- I forget) #3 and a variety of Stanley block planes. Not a single one of mine is a precision instrument by any stretch. It’s been a real thorn in my side. Perhaps that’s the name of the game with buying eBay? Perhaps everyone I’ve purchased the seller was selling because of undisclosed flaws? I’m unsure. The only thing I’m sure of is that I’ve had to put a great deal of time and effort into every plane I personally own. I consider perhaps I’m too picky. I’m unsure. If I was well off financially I’d buy all premium planes and have them professionally fine tuned. But I’m poor white trash lol
Cheers!
Was this deleted and re-uploaded, got a sense of de ja vue
I was thinking the same :D
@kr4lizec think they deleted part of it, but no idea what part.
Yep, first one slipped through without the final edit and altogether missing the final scene after we flattened the sole.
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingI thought you had removed the scene where you broke the old frog, but I checked it was still there. I did miss the end of the old version, going to watch it now. (would some thin super glue through the fracture help hold it)
The reason you chance breaking the casting when driving the pin through is because you used a punch, which is cone shaped, rather than a pin drift, which is straight. The nail acts more like a drift than a punch.
Done 100’s of these with a punch and this is only the second one that has broken on me, but I agree with you
Thanks Rob. Always find something helpful from your videos
Thanks for the comment
Recommend type of file? Good quality brand?
Mill bastard file...fine or medium. Just about any brand will do
I cant seem to get the chip breaker flat against the blade. Ive flatten the edge and i dont see any light but the moment i tighten the screw a small gap forms
Need more negative angle on the underside.
What is the machine that you use to grind the sole flat?
15 inch disc sanding machine
Very good Rob.
thanks
That Stanley looks like a war time plane. A lot of the workers were less skilled and thus a lot of the fit and finish was lower quality. It’s too bad but those planes are often the most cost effective planes for beginners to get ahold of, which kinda gives antique Stanleys a bad reputation.
Actual War planes were the last run of quailty planes. Abuse is still an issue, but quality did not really falloff till late 50s, 60s.
@@ehisey the planes are good. But some of the fit and finish was less than perfect on some. I’ve come across a couple that just were a little less than ideal. They worked perfect after a small amount of lapping on the frog or sole.
@kylejohnson4662 I can say the same about both Veritas and LN. Though the LN are way heavy for my taste.
good comment
Just attended the Fine Woodworking New England Show In Manchester CT, many "antique" vendors selling all kind of Stanley and other by gone era woodworking tools at super prices but can't help but wonder why other than frugality would anyone put so much time in effort into making something so inferior modest at best? Seems to be Lie Nelson's age old question.
Becuase most of mine are in way better state than this one. Perform as well as any LN.
what is a good spoke shave just learning to plane and not sure were the blade has to be lol