Some great ideas on seaguar lengths and strengths. Like the bead chain back at the hook too. Any videos on spoons? Subscribing. Good show. I usually fish kings out of SF bay and Bodega bay where I deckhanded a few seasons. Loved it. Also do you ever mooch w anchovies?
The Pro-Troll pulsating rod action is the key. On one trip last year we landed a fish. My wife wanted a picture and I said wait I will put my line back out. I bumped the line counter and also the boat speed was slowed down. I thought I would get back to it after taking the picture. With everything wrong before I could take the picture fish on. Guide Brian May told us don't reel in unless you have to. Reel all the lines up close to the top. The hooked fish will attract other fish to the surface investigating what is going on. Brian said they got a number of fish doing that. I also increased my hook to land ratio by cutting my spinners and rebuild with a small roller swivel and add a Mustad Open Eye Siwash. That Siwash hook has a really mean bend to it. It seems to hold fish better then treble hooks with pinched barbs. At least that is what I think and plan to test more this year.
Thanks for the insight Bob. I agree with Brian May. I've had other fish follow up the one that was hooked. With other lines in the water you have a chance. As far as the single siwash I haven't had a issue so far loosing fish on a treble (knock on wood) that I wanted to switch it over. However I know those things are known for sticking them deep and holding well. We (Angling Oregon) have been focusing more on a good breakaway system. We found a good and inexpensive solution that we are happy with and should be listing on our web site soon. We just want to get a few more fish on it and feel comfortable in knowing it's a success first. Thank you again for your input. I'm glad you are willing to share some of your experiences with us. If you haven't done so please follow/like our Facebook page and feel free to contribute there as well. Thanks Chris
Guide Brian May works at Fish Field in Tigard, Oregon. He was a guest speaker at the Newberg chapter of NW Steelheaders last year. One other comment that Brian made and I think it makes a lot of sense, He is not using any break away system but what they are doing is reeling with a slightly tighter drag. No pumping the rod. Just reel and reel. Brian said that pumping the rod even with a break away gives the fish more of a chance to pop the hook. Especially more so with no barbed hooks. I think he is right about that. We had one trip we actually had on 12 salmon. Not counting just a bump actual fish hooked and fighting. Chinook and Coho. I think we had three doubles fish pulling line and running all over. Several line tangles because of fish crossing into another line. We only landed 2 and that was because they were hooked really well. Very frustrating when we should of had four limits of salmon. Our Pro-Trolls I did the break away with a Krippled Lure Red Pin. Worked really well. Also you can now get those Pins with the eye for the leader at Cabela's Tualatin, Oregon store. They are by the area with all the flashers. Ten to a pack for $250. First store I have ever seen carry those.
I generally tell the folks in my boat to reel till you feel the fish. The problem with "pumping" the rod is the large cannon ball (usually 10-16oz) weight used. Anytime you drop the tip the first thing that happens is the weight drops which creates slack in the line. The breakaways will most definitely help with a fish cutting through the water. The 360 flashers have much more drag in the water unlike the triangle flashers. The tighter drag does help a lot with catching up with the fish. Sounds like we believe the same things just for different reasons.
This thread hits on a few things that I've found my own way to deal with. First, it sounds like you hate flasher drag also. My answer was switching to those smaller long and narrow flashers. they're maybe 7" long but only an inch wide. you don't know they're there. I think they're made by Abel or something like that. Second, the problem with trebles that has come up is how theyre notorious for very shallow hookups that can lose lightly hooked fish. It makes sense though, the treble gaps are smaller and the other 2 hooks can get in the way of the third digging in. Three benefits of going to bigger singles with a big gap and straight barb (like siwash) are firstly, although fish might not get hooked on the first swipe, when a fish does get hooked, it will likely be a deeper hookup. The other big benefit is they are very easy to remove and remove without damage. Ease of removal is important if you want to release a king without removing it from the water or even if it's on deck, scale loss is minimized if it's not flopping all over while you struggle with the hook. And lastly, trebles can get very badly tangled in the nets when a fish rolls which is nearly a non-issue with singles. As far as bring all the lines up to the surface, that's a 50/50 gamble. ...what if you're running through a small school of fish when you got the one? reeling will possibly take it out of their zone. I have seen fish chase hooked up fish too, actually, i've seen up to 4-5 fish school up around a hooked fish but i still don't see any reason to reel up everything. More often than not, there is nothing chasing a hooked fish.
I typically run #1 owner treble hooks. The split ring I use is sold by brad's. It's the only one I can find locally that is heavy enough gauge that it won't open up on a large fish. I lever really paid attention to the size. It's pretty standard.
I think it depends on time of year water temp and activity level of the fish. I've seen where they prefer the longer lengths in the spring fishery and the shorter in the fall. The length will change the presentation speed of the bait you're pulling behind it. You'll have to experiment some. However if I had to choose between the two I would use 24". It's a good all around length.
Y’all really helped me start with this setup. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Very helpful video guys I greatly appreciated it thanks very much. I only Bank fish because no boat but someday I'll get a small boat to try with.
Thank u guys u are the best love u
Wanna go angling sometime? I can meet at the boat ramp on the weekends!
Whats with the rubberband on the lure ?
Some great ideas on seaguar lengths and strengths. Like the bead chain back at the hook too. Any videos on spoons? Subscribing. Good show. I usually fish kings out of SF bay and Bodega bay where I deckhanded a few seasons. Loved it. Also do you ever mooch w anchovies?
Thanks for the support. I don’t use spoons much so we don’t have any videos on that topic. Yes we use anchovies as well. But only at Buoy 10.
The Pro-Troll pulsating rod action is the key. On one trip last year we landed a fish. My wife wanted a picture and I said wait I will put my line back out. I bumped the line counter and also the boat speed was slowed down. I thought I would get back to it after taking the picture. With everything wrong before I could take the picture fish on. Guide Brian May told us don't reel in unless you have to. Reel all the lines up close to the top. The hooked fish will attract other fish to the surface investigating what is going on. Brian said they got a number of fish doing that. I also increased my hook to land ratio by cutting my spinners and rebuild with a small roller swivel and add a Mustad Open Eye Siwash. That Siwash hook has a really mean bend to it. It seems to hold fish better then treble hooks with pinched barbs. At least that is what I think and plan to test more this year.
Thanks for the insight Bob. I agree with Brian May. I've had other fish follow up the one that was hooked. With other lines in the water you have a chance. As far as the single siwash I haven't had a issue so far loosing fish on a treble (knock on wood) that I wanted to switch it over. However I know those things are known for sticking them deep and holding well. We (Angling Oregon) have been focusing more on a good breakaway system. We found a good and inexpensive solution that we are happy with and should be listing on our web site soon. We just want to get a few more fish on it and feel comfortable in knowing it's a success first. Thank you again for your input. I'm glad you are willing to share some of your experiences with us. If you haven't done so please follow/like our Facebook page and feel free to contribute there as well. Thanks Chris
Guide Brian May works at Fish Field in Tigard, Oregon. He was a guest speaker at the Newberg chapter of NW Steelheaders last year. One other comment that Brian made and I think it makes a lot of sense, He is not using any break away system but what they are doing is reeling with a slightly tighter drag. No pumping the rod. Just reel and reel. Brian said that pumping the rod even with a break away gives the fish more of a chance to pop the hook. Especially more so with no barbed hooks. I think he is right about that. We had one trip we actually had on 12 salmon. Not counting just a bump actual fish hooked and fighting. Chinook and Coho. I think we had three doubles fish pulling line and running all over. Several line tangles because of fish crossing into another line. We only landed 2 and that was because they were hooked really well. Very frustrating when we should of had four limits of salmon. Our Pro-Trolls I did the break away with a Krippled Lure Red Pin. Worked really well. Also you can now get those Pins with the eye for the leader at Cabela's Tualatin, Oregon store. They are by the area with all the flashers. Ten to a pack for $250. First store I have ever seen carry those.
I generally tell the folks in my boat to reel till you feel the fish. The problem with "pumping" the rod is the large cannon ball (usually 10-16oz) weight used. Anytime you drop the tip the first thing that happens is the weight drops which creates slack in the line. The breakaways will most definitely help with a fish cutting through the water. The 360 flashers have much more drag in the water unlike the triangle flashers. The tighter drag does help a lot with catching up with the fish. Sounds like we believe the same things just for different reasons.
This thread hits on a few things that I've found my own way to deal with. First, it sounds like you hate flasher drag also. My answer was switching to those smaller long and narrow flashers. they're maybe 7" long but only an inch wide. you don't know they're there. I think they're made by Abel or something like that.
Second, the problem with trebles that has come up is how theyre notorious for very shallow hookups that can lose lightly hooked fish. It makes sense though, the treble gaps are smaller and the other 2 hooks can get in the way of the third digging in. Three benefits of going to bigger singles with a big gap and straight barb (like siwash) are firstly, although fish might not get hooked on the first swipe, when a fish does get hooked, it will likely be a deeper hookup. The other big benefit is they are very easy to remove and remove without damage. Ease of removal is important if you want to release a king without removing it from the water or even if it's on deck, scale loss is minimized if it's not flopping all over while you struggle with the hook. And lastly, trebles can get very badly tangled in the nets when a fish rolls which is nearly a non-issue with singles.
As far as bring all the lines up to the surface, that's a 50/50 gamble. ...what if you're running through a small school of fish when you got the one? reeling will possibly take it out of their zone. I have seen fish chase hooked up fish too, actually, i've seen up to 4-5 fish school up around a hooked fish but i still don't see any reason to reel up everything. More often than not, there is nothing chasing a hooked fish.
Thanks 1:1000 to 1000
what size hook and split ring r u running on the brad super bait???
I typically run #1 owner treble hooks. The split ring I use is sold by brad's. It's the only one I can find locally that is heavy enough gauge that it won't open up on a large fish. I lever really paid attention to the size. It's pretty standard.
thank you
what size hooks would u use on a mooching rig??
I use 5/0 wide gap needle point Owner hooks with a "4 finger" gap. We currently have a video on our channel explaining our herring rig.
I'll check it out i just purchased those bumper rigs u guys make thank u
Where can i buy these already riged up
Do you have and recommendations for the Wind River or Drano Lake on the bumper length? 24" or 36"
I think it depends on time of year water temp and activity level of the fish. I've seen where they prefer the longer lengths in the spring fishery and the shorter in the fall. The length will change the presentation speed of the bait you're pulling behind it. You'll have to experiment some. However if I had to choose between the two I would use 24". It's a good all around length.
Sounds good. Two to a pack if they work good that should be a great deal.