Thanks for the video. I broke off an injector "stretch" Bolt, and managed to extract it using the following method: I took a very small drill bit and drilled a very small hole in the top of the broke off bolt that was stuck in place, and then gently tapped a tapering Flathead mini screwdriver into that hole. I was then able to gingerly turn the screwdriver and back the broke off bolt shaft out of its hole. This was possible because it was the injector closest to the front of the engine. If it was the 3rd or 4th or 5th injector back it would have been most likely impossible to use this method. Lastly, I should mention that I broke off the bolt because I confused foot-pounds with inch-pounds. So obviously I'm not some kind of rocket scientist, but it did work to do it this way described above.
I'm working through the very same. Lifted the cover to find black death completely over the whole area and grew to stick on the underside of the cover .. spent a week picking to black stuff but wet and dry. Oven cleaner is good but makes everything gooey. . Prefered dry and vacuuming. Did no 2 which was a mess. 1 is stuck and 3 and 4 ready to pull .. patience is a must
Thank you for your video, you do a good job helping us Diyers! I was wondering, outside of keeping the hole straight, is it necessary to protect the threads of the “old” hole when I’m assuming you’re going to drill them out with the 3/8” oversized bit that came with your kit? You don’t show drilling out the “old” hole with the oversized bit, did you just eyeball it? Also did you use any lubricant while drilling out the broken steel bolt or while enlarging the hole with the 3/8” bit? Is it tricky to start the oversized 3/8” bit straight? Did you use any lubricant while tapping the hole and is it difficult to start the tap straight? You ran the new threaded insert “all the way down in there” did you mean all the way to the bottom? Also, where did you buy the kit you used? Thanks for your work, coffee is on the way!
There should be links in video description for the threaded insert kit with tap and drill. I usually move up one drill size at a time to keep everything straight with the original hole. Oil certainly helps when drilling and tapping adn we don't want the insert going to the bottom of the hole, just "all the way down" so the top of the insert is completely in the hole, and maybe a little more.
@@FloridaVanMan Hi there! Just checked. In the description are only links for audio library. I'm interested in that kit too, if still available somewhere. thank you! Great info, nicely done!
Thank you so much. You really were a life saver. Your video and experience was so so helpful. It worked amazingly. So many good tips. I would have sent you more money but it was the max option. Thanks Florida van man. I really appreciate you my brother! Your the best!!
Killed it again today. This time I didn't break a bolt! LOL Injector #2 from our latest Rolling Realtor cleaned up real nice and is ready for the buyer to take it home.
Having done a few diy RUclips repair videos I feel adding pictures with the videos have helped alot of my viewers. List of tools used. I've even uploaded the same video longer with more details and shorter to boost my numbers (3 minutes max). My tripod with a cheap selfie stick has worked wonders on getting the perfect view. Either way your videos are still very helpful and sent you some coffee☕
I had the valve cover off my 2006 Dodge 2500 Sprinter because an injector bolt broke as I was removing the injectors due to Black Death. I drilled our the broken bolt, retapped the hole and installed an Indian worm from Linden Engineering and am putting the Valve cover back on. I wondered how you reattached the black hose at the back end of the valve cover? I’m trying to push it back through the hole but it’s fighting me since it’s a short hose at the very back of the engine compartment and there’s not much slack to work with. I’ve oiled it up slightly to help push it through the hole but am struggling. Do I need to crawl under the van and work from there? I didn’t see you attaching the hose in your video. Wondering if there’s an easy way to do it. Thanks for your videos.
Are we talking about the drain hose that hangs off the back of the engine? It isn't a critical part so I would not be too worried if impossible to get it in. I've never removed that hose so have not needed to put it back. It should* push in like a rubber grommet but I'm sure that is what you are trying.
Yes, red. To be honest I don't always remember to add Lock-tight and never had an insert come out, so I'm not convinced it is needed. Can't hurt though, right?
I asked this on your Facebook page, too, but how deep do I need to drill and tap the new hole? And how deep is the insert supposed to sit? In the video I hear you say “it seems I’ve hit bottom” while turning the tap, but I’m not sure if that’s the actual bottom of the hole or just the bottom of where you’ve drilled to.
I compare all the holes depth and don't go deeper than the average. I have gone too deep and caused coolant to leak. That can be fixed by putting a dab of JB-Weld on the bottom of the insert before driving it in, then driving the bolt before the JB cures. The goal is a small squish of JB at the TIP of the stretch bolt, not in the threads of the bolt. JB in the outer threads of the insert is fine.
Found it. Is there any harm to doing this with the valve cover on and is that insert a helicoil or something else? How has the insert held up being that it's not the entire depth of the hold down?
Hell-ish coils and tiny-time-serts will not withstand the tests of time and future service. Both of those brands offer MUCH less thread depth and tend to permanently bite the inserted bolt, greatly effecting the torque and reducing the downward force on the injector seal. The insert I linked up-sized the threads in aluminum enough to ensure the aluminum never strips again. The steel insert in contact with the steel stretch bolt ensures the bolt will never again react and seize to the engine head from galvanic corrosion (bimetal corrosion). The threaded insert truly makes this repair "better than new".
@@FloridaVanMan hey beautiful, i saw you link to an ebay on one of your comments and it's on the way - your videos alleviated any procedural concerns I had (I've done all of these things before) and it's quite a bit less intimidating. The info about helicoils and timeserts is venmo well spent. Thanks again!
@@FloridaVanMan gotcha, got to it this weekend and it went pretty well. all the injectors were starting the death as it turned out, everything is reinstalled. no click, no crank, i have a feeling the MB dealer did something before they gave it back. battery voltage is normal, connected to my delica's battery array to ensure no other internal battery issues, all dashlights normal, no codes i didn't have before. going to try manually connecting the starter to + to isolate what type of issue. FRP shows 26 psi (expected?) but the injectors are definitely getting fuel (verified via the return) and definitely getting power. No click+no crank makes me think it's something in that circuit.
@@hoggmann7217 If the starter turns when jumped, but the key does not, look for my ECM video with fan-on & no-start. Just search for "ECM" and a few others will come up with this one you want.
The inserts are something i would do. I hear alot of horror stories. So I opted to use M8 x8 x1.5 steel thread non stretch. I swear i should not do this but non the less i did. Since then yes, I have had a leak but it's not spraying. However, it's coming from the side of the engine on the right side. Coming from the head cover overflow pipe. I think i can assume that the copper washer is not sealing correctly. They are all new seals. Yes, i had to ream the head for the injector holes. I am wondering if you have any ideas on what other versions of the copper washer i can use instead of the OEM merc version. maybe nissan x trail or honda washers. they are thicker. After reaming the holes, some ALI material was removed to flatten the hole so lost material here. Thicker washers would make up the loss of ALI surely.??! Also, i hear 2 versions of settings for the bolts tightens. EG. 7nm +90 DEG + 90DEG then slacken then retigthen to 7nm. um umm. and the other version is 7nm + 90deg and done!!.. So i went with 10nm +90deg and done. Please advice.
My books read 7Nm then 90 degrees and done. I understand the original process included a second 90 degree turn when engine was warmed, but tests in 2007 or 2008 showed that extra turn only stretched the bolt without adding any pressure on the copper washer. Honda washers are thicker and often used to compensate for seat cutting losses.
@@FloridaVanMan would you know what the ID number is for the honda washers. I am clueless about this and cant find much about this. However, I am suspectin that the return pipes are leaking at the old worn rubber seals. These seals i cant find to purchase but only the eintire pipe with couplers and rubber orings. I see no spray form the injectors but do have a major leak from some where on the right side or in your case back side of the engine. The furthest point away from the AUX belt drive. It leaks out of a tiny hole and down the side of the engine to where the gearbox joins with the engine.
Are you asking why the bolt broke? Yes it is rare. I suspect someone did a disastrous repair previously, maybe using permanent thread lock or even JB-Weld to hide the mistake of drilling the hole too deep while cleaning it the wrong way. This strikes the water jacket and coolant comes out. Another of my videos discovers this exact problem created by a specialist shop in Fort Pierce Florida.
Yep! That is very close to my price including the thread repair. Today I cleaned bad black death from our latest Rolling Realtor video, where I predicted #2 leaking before we looked. The injector came out reasonably easy and it was running again at 4 hours start to finish (including putting away tools). Did not need to disassemble the injector so it was 1/3 the price.
Hey guys, I have an om 648 kind à same, but what is the insert? What size outside diameter and what is the thread on the outside? I can’t find it:( I need only to fix thread, cand drive..
These work for EGR, transmission pan and other bolts the same size, but they don't go deep enough for the long stretch shank on our injector hold-down bolts. amzn.to/3htFncf
It is a stretch bolt, so the desired force at yield-point is what dictates the 6mm injector bolts. If the engine had bigger bolts that would require more aluminum and longer hold-down claws. So as a fifth generation German immigrant: Jaja, thzee Gzermans know everyzhing bezzer! Not all Germans, but thzee who have designed the finest production cars in the world for decades. They probably know better than us about best bolt size.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. I broke off an injector "stretch" Bolt, and managed to extract it using the following method: I took a very small drill bit and drilled a very small hole in the top of the broke off bolt that was stuck in place, and then gently tapped a tapering Flathead mini screwdriver into that hole. I was then able to gingerly turn the screwdriver and back the broke off bolt shaft out of its hole. This was possible because it was the injector closest to the front of the engine. If it was the 3rd or 4th or 5th injector back it would have been most likely impossible to use this method. Lastly, I should mention that I broke off the bolt because I confused foot-pounds with inch-pounds. So obviously I'm not some kind of rocket scientist, but it did work to do it this way described above.
I'm working through the very same. Lifted the cover to find black death completely over the whole area and grew to stick on the underside of the cover .. spent a week picking to black stuff but wet and dry. Oven cleaner is good but makes everything gooey. . Prefered dry and vacuuming. Did no 2 which was a mess. 1 is stuck and 3 and 4 ready to pull .. patience is a must
Thank you for your video, you do a good job helping us Diyers! I was wondering, outside of keeping the hole straight, is it necessary to protect the threads of the “old” hole when I’m assuming you’re going to drill them out with the 3/8” oversized bit that came with your kit? You don’t show drilling out the “old” hole with the oversized bit, did you just eyeball it? Also did you use any lubricant while drilling out the broken steel bolt or while enlarging the hole with the 3/8” bit? Is it tricky to start the oversized 3/8” bit straight? Did you use any lubricant while tapping the hole and is it difficult to start the tap straight? You ran the new threaded insert “all the way down in there” did you mean all the way to the bottom? Also, where did you buy the kit you used? Thanks for your work, coffee is on the way!
There should be links in video description for the threaded insert kit with tap and drill. I usually move up one drill size at a time to keep everything straight with the original hole. Oil certainly helps when drilling and tapping adn we don't want the insert going to the bottom of the hole, just "all the way down" so the top of the insert is completely in the hole, and maybe a little more.
@@FloridaVanMan Hi there! Just checked. In the description are only links for audio library. I'm interested in that kit too, if still available somewhere. thank you!
Great info, nicely done!
Our links page is broken lately but you can find the kit on eBay by searching "Sprinter threaded insert". @@ferenctulics9688
Thanks!
Thank you so much. You really were a life saver. Your video and experience was so so helpful. It worked amazingly. So many good tips. I would have sent you more money but it was the max option. Thanks Florida van man. I really appreciate you my brother! Your the best!!
We also have a membership program with member benefits. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
You are a brave brave man. I admire this. You killed it. Good stuff🤘
Killed it again today. This time I didn't break a bolt! LOL Injector #2 from our latest Rolling Realtor cleaned up real nice and is ready for the buyer to take it home.
Having done a few diy RUclips repair videos I feel adding pictures with the videos have helped alot of my viewers. List of tools used. I've even uploaded the same video longer with more details and shorter to boost my numbers (3 minutes max). My tripod with a cheap selfie stick has worked wonders on getting the perfect view. Either way your videos are still very helpful and sent you some coffee☕
Perfect thank-you
I had the valve cover off my 2006 Dodge 2500 Sprinter because an injector bolt broke as I was removing the injectors due to Black Death. I drilled our the broken bolt, retapped the hole and installed an Indian worm from Linden Engineering and am putting the Valve cover back on. I wondered how you reattached the black hose at the back end of the valve cover? I’m trying to push it back through the hole but it’s fighting me since it’s a short hose at the very back of the engine compartment and there’s not much slack to work with. I’ve oiled it up slightly to help push it through the hole but am struggling. Do I need to crawl under the van and work from there? I didn’t see you attaching the hose in your video. Wondering if there’s an easy way to do it. Thanks for your videos.
Are we talking about the drain hose that hangs off the back of the engine? It isn't a critical part so I would not be too worried if impossible to get it in. I've never removed that hose so have not needed to put it back. It should* push in like a rubber grommet but I'm sure that is what you are trying.
Do you recommend putting locktight on the insert? If so red or blue?
Yes, red. To be honest I don't always remember to add Lock-tight and never had an insert come out, so I'm not convinced it is needed. Can't hurt though, right?
Thank you so much for all your help
I asked this on your Facebook page, too, but how deep do I need to drill and tap the new hole? And how deep is the insert supposed to sit?
In the video I hear you say “it seems I’ve hit bottom” while turning the tap, but I’m not sure if that’s the actual bottom of the hole or just the bottom of where you’ve drilled to.
I compare all the holes depth and don't go deeper than the average. I have gone too deep and caused coolant to leak. That can be fixed by putting a dab of JB-Weld on the bottom of the insert before driving it in, then driving the bolt before the JB cures. The goal is a small squish of JB at the TIP of the stretch bolt, not in the threads of the bolt. JB in the outer threads of the insert is fine.
Found it. Is there any harm to doing this with the valve cover on and is that insert a helicoil or something else? How has the insert held up being that it's not the entire depth of the hold down?
Hell-ish coils and tiny-time-serts will not withstand the tests of time and future service. Both of those brands offer MUCH less thread depth and tend to permanently bite the inserted bolt, greatly effecting the torque and reducing the downward force on the injector seal. The insert I linked up-sized the threads in aluminum enough to ensure the aluminum never strips again. The steel insert in contact with the steel stretch bolt ensures the bolt will never again react and seize to the engine head from galvanic corrosion (bimetal corrosion). The threaded insert truly makes this repair "better than new".
@@FloridaVanMan hey beautiful, i saw you link to an ebay on one of your comments and it's on the way - your videos alleviated any procedural concerns I had (I've done all of these things before) and it's quite a bit less intimidating. The info about helicoils and timeserts is venmo well spent. Thanks again!
@@FloridaVanMan gotcha, got to it this weekend and it went pretty well. all the injectors were starting the death as it turned out, everything is reinstalled. no click, no crank, i have a feeling the MB dealer did something before they gave it back. battery voltage is normal, connected to my delica's battery array to ensure no other internal battery issues, all dashlights normal, no codes i didn't have before. going to try manually connecting the starter to + to isolate what type of issue. FRP shows 26 psi (expected?) but the injectors are definitely getting fuel (verified via the return) and definitely getting power. No click+no crank makes me think it's something in that circuit.
@@hoggmann7217 If it was towed, be sure the transmission linkage is connected to the shift selector and try putting in Neutral to start.
@@hoggmann7217 If the starter turns when jumped, but the key does not, look for my ECM video with fan-on & no-start. Just search for "ECM" and a few others will come up with this one you want.
Where did you get the insert kit from??? Thanks!!
www.ebay.com/itm/184235847101?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ae54fedbd:g:ZI4AAOSwa2ZakgA6&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4HJAyYgE%2FUhaePesviH7Cpu9IVYXRBEwemoSeK2Q%2BAGpU97UsvuZ2YROipQtb0Rn9ACCyzhjCSvrCSmJMvDfhDenc6Qzo6uRzBywHvIIGcWmDmSsxGwLx6GsNMNi8fKKY%2BxNlp37DlUW3ADhRxINQOfkinqwToMYDBSJJIQ%2FD%2Fw7kAjJwo9ucm1H%2FaGKA8%2FR4R%2FQ5wm9lY1kS4PbicBpjCPUrFqq8GHkgAJZbZ5v9XHY77vP2GdEdkAPqJ6Twtgny4lp0sZCL0%2Fm9BZJBkJBEI16Vs%2BixM1N7YN6fg2NFaSv%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsu-hrPhf
Just wanted to know how long does this kind of fix last for an aluminum engine?
Forever. It is NOT an aluminum engine, it has an aluminum head. This threaded steel insert makes the bolt-hole better than new.
The inserts are something i would do. I hear alot of horror stories. So I opted to use M8 x8 x1.5 steel thread non stretch. I swear i should not do this but non the less i did. Since then yes, I have had a leak but it's not spraying. However, it's coming from the side of the engine on the right side. Coming from the head cover overflow pipe. I think i can assume that the copper washer is not sealing correctly. They are all new seals. Yes, i had to ream the head for the injector holes. I am wondering if you have any ideas on what other versions of the copper washer i can use instead of the OEM merc version. maybe nissan x trail or honda washers. they are thicker. After reaming the holes, some ALI material was removed to flatten the hole so lost material here. Thicker washers would make up the loss of ALI surely.??! Also, i hear 2 versions of settings for the bolts tightens. EG. 7nm +90 DEG + 90DEG then slacken then retigthen to 7nm. um umm. and the other version is 7nm + 90deg and done!!.. So i went with 10nm +90deg and done. Please advice.
My books read 7Nm then 90 degrees and done. I understand the original process included a second 90 degree turn when engine was warmed, but tests in 2007 or 2008 showed that extra turn only stretched the bolt without adding any pressure on the copper washer. Honda washers are thicker and often used to compensate for seat cutting losses.
@@FloridaVanMan would you know what the ID number is for the honda washers. I am clueless about this and cant find much about this. However, I am suspectin that the return pipes are leaking at the old worn rubber seals. These seals i cant find to purchase but only the eintire pipe with couplers and rubber orings.
I see no spray form the injectors but do have a major leak from some where on the right side or in your case back side of the engine. The furthest point away from the AUX belt drive. It leaks out of a tiny hole and down the side of the engine to where the gearbox joins with the engine.
Do you sell those insert kits
No, I buy them on eBay searching 'Sprinter injector insert'
Is this a rare occurrence? Did this happen due to Black Death presence?
Are you asking why the bolt broke? Yes it is rare. I suspect someone did a disastrous repair previously, maybe using permanent thread lock or even JB-Weld to hide the mistake of drilling the hole too deep while cleaning it the wrong way. This strikes the water jacket and coolant comes out. Another of my videos discovers this exact problem created by a specialist shop in Fort Pierce Florida.
This was a $1,500 repair for me on number 4 injector for light black death.
Valve for gasket
Copper washers
Grease
I provided the new injector.
Yep! That is very close to my price including the thread repair. Today I cleaned bad black death from our latest Rolling Realtor video, where I predicted #2 leaking before we looked. The injector came out reasonably easy and it was running again at 4 hours start to finish (including putting away tools). Did not need to disassemble the injector so it was 1/3 the price.
Smashing biscuits
Hey guys, I have an om 648 kind à same, but what is the insert? What size outside diameter and what is the thread on the outside? I can’t find it:(
I need only to fix thread, cand drive..
This kit for the injector hold down bolts. www.ebay.com/itm/184235847101
These work for EGR, transmission pan and other bolts the same size, but they don't go deep enough for the long stretch shank on our injector hold-down bolts. amzn.to/3htFncf
Guys, you are amazing!!! Thank you!!!!!
Guys if I understand right the drill bit is 3/8, and what is the tap?
Jaja, thzee Gzermans know everyzhing bezzer. Like engineering this engine with M6 injector bolts.
It is a stretch bolt, so the desired force at yield-point is what dictates the 6mm injector bolts. If the engine had bigger bolts that would require more aluminum and longer hold-down claws.
So as a fifth generation German immigrant: Jaja, thzee Gzermans know everyzhing bezzer! Not all Germans, but thzee who have designed the finest production cars in the world for decades. They probably know better than us about best bolt size.
I have this , but it drives
It will only get worse until it is fixed.