@@keybonbon you're missing the benefits of it - you pre align the socket correctly to fit the pins when inserting the switches for one but you also insert the pin all the way - sure, you're faster but then you have the bend pin issue later on when you insert the switches because that one socket just lays in a bad way and keeps on stopping the pin. ;) (you should also recommend a much smaller solder tip and to remove them you should use a thin wire like the leg of a diode and pull it out with it)
sold! Thanks a lot for sharing this and explaining the benefits in a constructive way. I wish YT would let me overlay text like it used to so I could share this, but the best I can do is pin your comment, and down the line I’ll probably make a follow up video to cover this and a few other things I missed (i.e recommending thin wire like you mentioned- I used .5mm in this case). Have a lovely day :)
@@keybonbon Could it be that the (very) difficult to fit switches would fit better if the sockets were better aligned? Or is this just because of switch pin thickness?
@@keybonbon hey keybonbon, thanks for the video... i am a noob from germany could u please explain me againg what @homerow was tryin to say in easy words? because i will build my first costum keyboard... and wanted to try the method you used in your video i dont want to mess up big time while trying :-/
Great video! I personally did it differently. I used tweezers to place the Mill-Max sockets into the PCB, but put a strip of heat resistant tape over a row of them, then repeated for the other 4 rows of my WhiteFox 65% keeb. Flipped the PCB over to the underside, and began soldering away. I repeated the process for the two-pin LED sockets as well. The end result was a completely hot-swappable WhiteFox. Very happy.
id recommend using a push pin to insert the socket in and taping them down with thermal tape. using switches takes or tweezers take way too long and you may lose a few during that process. having them taped down allows you to solder all at once and add more force to properly secure and use more force to push the sockets in further. you think that it's all the way down but really it's not. hope this helps!
Dude, seriously? Just wow. 👏👏👏 Thank you for taking the time to do this. Holy crap! Your channel is impressing me more and more. Thanks a bunch for all the great info!
@@keybonbon Yes… for the moment, what magnifying goggles do you recommend? This looks a lot like what I see at 1:47… www.amazon.com/YOCTOSUN-Rechargeable-Magnifying-Professional-Interchangeable/dp/B07T4KPYN2
thanks so much for the video. From what I can tell, it is the second number that states the size. So 0395-0 is the same size as 7305-0 and both are much smaller than 0305-2.
Table of Contents: 0:15 Side by side of 7305 and 0305 0:58 How to install and solder Mill Max sockets (step by step) 3:35 How to desolder Mill Max sockets 4:30 Switch compatibility test and results
Baller video. I am making the Milk macropad and I decided to convert my canoe at the same time, so this is super helpful, especially your switch list. Thanks!
Good one, I could have used that switch compatibility overview to set some realistic expectations. A Cream broke for me, and my batch of box whites also don't really go into them.
I'm desoldering switches from an existing keyboard and putting these in their place. So they can't just slide into the holes as it's really hard to get every bit of solder out. I found that putting an awl (the kind used for sewing) in the top of the switch can help you gently slide it into place while you're heating up the solder. Hanging the keyboard over your desk and holding the awl up with your leg also helped me solder on the back side without it sliding out. (There is very little leeway on this case, so I needed the sockets to be as far down as they can get without force.)
Another trick I've found if it's sticking up a little too much is to put kapton tape over the socket tightly, then set a chisel tipped soldering iron over it, The tape keeps solder from going into the socket.
I'm just about to start with more 'serious' mechanical keyboards and was wondering what's with the ones where manufacturer put switches directly into the PCB. So there is a way out - desolder and buy the sockets. Thank-s for sharing.
I have seen a few other guides claim that you need to simply push in the sockets with a heated soldering iron and not use any solder... Yet this video, you're using solder to keep the sockets in place... Which is correct?
Hi, I got those exact 0305's and found one of the legs on Zealios and Gateron switches to be too big to insert into the Millmax sockets. Do I just need to use more force to insert it?
hey! I updated the spreadsheet to put the zealios V2 in the “Difficult” category. It turns out the ones I tested were V1s. Which gateron switches were you having difficulty with?
Howard Sohn ah interesting, gateron browns were one of the ones I tested and they seemed to insert with little force, any chance the pins were maybe not aligned when you were inserting them? I’ll give it another shot tomorrow on a fresh set of sockets to double check
@@howardsohn you can tell which Gateron Browns your are using. If it has a black bottom housing those are regular, opaque white housing are milky switches, clear housing for RGB, and milky bottom and clear top are SMD switches.
Strange how the NK Blueberries are rated "low" while the NK Creams are rated "Difficult". I was under the impression that they had roughly the same housing.
Is it safe to solder in a mill max in 2 empty sockets while all the other sockets have millmax AND switches in them? I accidentally soldered in the millmax in the sockets for a stepped capslock and I want to solder in mill maxes for the other 2 sockets which aren't meant for stepped capslock. I REALLY don't want to remove the switches out from the rest of the board because it's perfectly functional atm and some of the millmax is feeling a little lose so I don't want to take them out...
Very cool video! See I have this Logitech g810 that a really like, but the romer g switches are getting bad after almost five years. They are nice to type on but most key caps have broken Latches and I even had to glue some caps to the switches because they have no latches left to hold in place.. a bummer... I was wondering if I cloud turn it into swappable. Is it possible?
I plan on cracking open my Corsair K100. You just saved my life and showed me so much new stuff I wanna try for my first try. I wish I could just pay someone to do this for me to be honest. Great video! Thanks!
I just fucked up, i went specifically around for a very specific board with specific layout, costet me quite a bit of extra money and research. I bought everything, and just as i was about to solder the few millmaxes i went to this video again (first saw it 2 years ago) and see that the kailh box i want to use have bad compatability... I just checked and damn, they dont go in really, the fixing pins of the switch are loose. Maybe its fine with the plate, but damn, really dissappointed....
It will work on virtually all custom boards, but I’m not sure how well it will work on pre builts. Also I wouldn’t do this on either a half plate or plate less build or on any build that has a lot of flex as that will mess with the friction of the sockets
Great video and great timing! It's kind of sad when you buy an awesome keyboard but dread desoldering switches to customize it, I will likely being doing this to many of my keyboards :)
In the realm of custom keyboards where you can easily spend hundreds of dollars, soldering your own mill max sockets is still interesting for many. This also applies to cheaper but very special devices like macropads. Don't draw conclusions about others too easily.
Hey love this video and thanks for the info. Subscribing now. I have a Durgod Fusion (not hot swap) board, and I'd love to install Mill Max's. But they already have sockets in them. How do I get those out?
Thank you for this video. Great detail, easy to understand your explanations & full of useful info! I've been wanting to start modding my red led corsair k70 recently so being able to have the switches hotswapable is a game changer!
First excuse me for my bad English from Google Translate xD... These types of "sockets" are made to be placed on boards that were not designed to be placed with hotswap sockets such as Kailh or Gateron? In other words, by placing this type of Mill-Max socket where the switch would normally be soldered directly, would our board, which is not designed to be hotswap, now be?
FYI, Linjar switches, which are a recolored gateron yellow for the most part, have one pin that is too wide to work with these sockets. You have to file the pin down to make them fit.
I am wondering is it possible to just insert all the millmax sockets (no switches) for the entire pcb then just put masking tape on the flush side to ensure flush fit. Then turn pcb around and solder everything at once. This way you ensure all sockets are flat regardless of any possibility of bent pin on defective switches, and soldering all sockets at once should cut down one total installation time. Let me know what you think. PS: if you are worried about mistakenly soldering I to the socket opening, maybe try insert one tooth pick in each pair of the socket you are soldering, then just move them from socket to socket before soldering.
just put them on the switch first... *facepalm ;)
I’ve found I’m faster at it when I insert directly into the pcb first, but I know that’s really tedious for some, so good tip! :)
@@keybonbon you're missing the benefits of it - you pre align the socket correctly to fit the pins when inserting the switches for one but you also insert the pin all the way - sure, you're faster but then you have the bend pin issue later on when you insert the switches because that one socket just lays in a bad way and keeps on stopping the pin. ;)
(you should also recommend a much smaller solder tip and to remove them you should use a thin wire like the leg of a diode and pull it out with it)
sold! Thanks a lot for sharing this and explaining the benefits in a constructive way. I wish YT would let me overlay text like it used to so I could share this, but the best I can do is pin your comment, and down the line I’ll probably make a follow up video to cover this and a few other things I missed (i.e recommending thin wire like you mentioned- I used .5mm in this case). Have a lovely day :)
@@keybonbon Could it be that the (very) difficult to fit switches would fit better if the sockets were better aligned? Or is this just because of switch pin thickness?
@@keybonbon hey keybonbon, thanks for the video... i am a noob from germany
could u please explain me againg what @homerow was tryin to say in easy words?
because i will build my first costum keyboard... and wanted to try the method you used in your video
i dont want to mess up big time while trying :-/
Awww yeaaaaaahh, a quality guide that doesn't look like it was recorded with a camcorder from 2005
Thank you for spending the time, effort and money to cover this as thoroughly as you did.
Brilliant video. I've watched hundreds of keyboard related how-to and none have covered mill max sockets!
Great video! I personally did it differently. I used tweezers to place the Mill-Max sockets into the PCB, but put a strip of heat resistant tape over a row of them, then repeated for the other 4 rows of my WhiteFox 65% keeb. Flipped the PCB over to the underside, and began soldering away. I repeated the process for the two-pin LED sockets as well. The end result was a completely hot-swappable WhiteFox. Very happy.
oh that sounds much nicer, I was dreading having to desolder every time I got some in the socket
I was thinking about the tape on the board to hold them up, thanks for the confirmation.
id recommend using a push pin to insert the socket in and taping them down with thermal tape. using switches takes or tweezers take way too long and you may lose a few during that process. having them taped down allows you to solder all at once and add more force to properly secure and use more force to push the sockets in further. you think that it's all the way down but really it's not. hope this helps!
Good tip, I’ll try that some time!
Hands down one of the most informative keyboard channels you can find. Thank you!
Dude, seriously? Just wow. 👏👏👏
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Holy crap! Your channel is impressing me more and more. Thanks a bunch for all the great info!
That's really a great and thoughtful video. Shelf off many man hours for others.
You should do a video talking about your equipment (soldering iron, desoldering gun, etc.)
Great idea! I’ll do that some time for sure :)
@@keybonbon Yes… for the moment, what magnifying goggles do you recommend?
This looks a lot like what I see at 1:47…
www.amazon.com/YOCTOSUN-Rechargeable-Magnifying-Professional-Interchangeable/dp/B07T4KPYN2
thanks so much for the video. From what I can tell, it is the second number that states the size. So 0395-0 is the same size as 7305-0 and both are much smaller than 0305-2.
Table of Contents:
0:15 Side by side of 7305 and 0305
0:58 How to install and solder Mill Max sockets (step by step)
3:35 How to desolder Mill Max sockets
4:30 Switch compatibility test and results
You didn't mention the difference in difficulty between the two socket sizes with each switch. Are the end results the same for both sizes?
Mill max is a great product to make your board hotswap. Been using for awhile now. It also works if you screw up the pad on the pcb too
Baller video. I am making the Milk macropad and I decided to convert my canoe at the same time, so this is super helpful, especially your switch list. Thanks!
Good one, I could have used that switch compatibility overview to set some realistic expectations. A Cream broke for me, and my batch of box whites also don't really go into them.
Love this video. It has the right amount of detail, and super easy to understand. Keep it up!
You’re very underrated man. Keep it up!
Thanks to the sockets surge of availability and this video I was able to complete my first board with sockets!
I'm desoldering switches from an existing keyboard and putting these in their place. So they can't just slide into the holes as it's really hard to get every bit of solder out.
I found that putting an awl (the kind used for sewing) in the top of the switch can help you gently slide it into place while you're heating up the solder.
Hanging the keyboard over your desk and holding the awl up with your leg also helped me solder on the back side without it sliding out. (There is very little leeway on this case, so I needed the sockets to be as far down as they can get without force.)
Another trick I've found if it's sticking up a little too much is to put kapton tape over the socket tightly, then set a chisel tipped soldering iron over it, The tape keeps solder from going into the socket.
Thanks for avoiding me from wasting time and damaging my keyboard trying to do it with cream yellows
Hey really great video! Millmaxing is one of the things in custom boards I have yet to do. Will refer back to this video once I do :)
Wow thanks so much for this video. Can't wait till I mod my anne pro 2! So informative
Me: how’s difficult is it to insert cherry blue?
Cherry blue: yes
Lovely, think I'll solder the 7305's into the KBD8X pcb to make it hotswap.
Not gonna lie this video saved my ass from buying these for my box Jades. Thanks!
great video. would love to see a similar video with the 3305 sockets which were designed for mx switches
What's the difference?
@@katanalama2174 3305 were designed specifically for hotswapping keyboards. I think they're a little bit lower profile
@@Camdem ah okay
Very helpful!
I'm just about to start with more 'serious' mechanical keyboards and was wondering what's with the ones where manufacturer put switches directly into the PCB. So there is a way out - desolder and buy the sockets. Thank-s for sharing.
This is a quality video.
gonna try this on the keychron k2.. thanks man!
SWITCH COMPATIBILITY:
CHERRY BLUE ? YES 🤣
Great video. Thanks
I have seen a few other guides claim that you need to simply push in the sockets with a heated soldering iron and not use any solder... Yet this video, you're using solder to keep the sockets in place... Which is correct?
killer intro
Which solder did you use I saw that thinner solder makes it easier to solder these sockets but yours is not linked. Would love to know :)
Awesome video, thank you.
Hi, I got those exact 0305's and found one of the legs on Zealios and Gateron switches to be too big to insert into the Millmax sockets. Do I just need to use more force to insert it?
hey! I updated the spreadsheet to put the zealios V2 in the “Difficult” category. It turns out the ones I tested were V1s. Which gateron switches were you having difficulty with?
@@keybonbon Gat Browns. Not sure if there's a version...
Howard Sohn ah interesting, gateron browns were one of the ones I tested and they seemed to insert with little force, any chance the pins were maybe not aligned when you were inserting them? I’ll give it another shot tomorrow on a fresh set of sockets to double check
@@howardsohn you can tell which Gateron Browns your are using. If it has a black bottom housing those are regular, opaque white housing are milky switches, clear housing for RGB, and milky bottom and clear top are SMD switches.
Really informative content
Hi
Can you also teach us how to desolder millmax? Is that easy?
very informative :)
Strange how the NK Blueberries are rated "low" while the NK Creams are rated "Difficult". I was under the impression that they had roughly the same housing.
Can you test a switch that is called anubis switch because they are not on the list and im not sure if they will work
Do you think we can millmax a Logitech switch? I think they use Omrons.
Dont zealios and zilents have the same housing?
what thickness solder wire do you use?
far more costly (3xmore on digikey) than the pcb sockets but hell yeah worth it.
is the jwk yellow will work on those socket?
"Cherry Blue: Difficult - Yes"
Is it safe to solder in a mill max in 2 empty sockets while all the other sockets have millmax AND switches in them? I accidentally soldered in the millmax in the sockets for a stepped capslock and I want to solder in mill maxes for the other 2 sockets which aren't meant for stepped capslock. I REALLY don't want to remove the switches out from the rest of the board because it's perfectly functional atm and some of the millmax is feeling a little lose so I don't want to take them out...
Most definitely it's safe! Just take your time. It's really no different than soldering all your switches in one go.
@@chrisgalvez7735 thank you!
Very cool video! See I have this Logitech g810 that a really like, but the romer g switches are getting bad after almost five years. They are nice to type on but most key caps have broken Latches and I even had to glue some caps to the switches because they have no latches left to hold in place.. a bummer... I was wondering if I cloud turn it into swappable. Is it possible?
Logitech sends you a patch of new keycaps if you contact them.
Can you reuse previously soldered Cherry switches with sockets or will the residual solder mess up the socket insertion?
I plan on cracking open my Corsair K100. You just saved my life and showed me so much new stuff I wanna try for my first try. I wish I could just pay someone to do this for me to be honest. Great video! Thanks!
Found that Zealios v2 are very difficult, when you tested compatibility did you mean v1 or v2?
Do tealios, holy bobas, and banana splits work?
thanks bro
what about outemu red
test the RAZER swtches please
Do you use flux to make things go smoother?
I just fucked up, i went specifically around for a very specific board with specific layout, costet me quite a bit of extra money and research. I bought everything, and just as i was about to solder the few millmaxes i went to this video again (first saw it 2 years ago) and see that the kailh box i want to use have bad compatability... I just checked and damn, they dont go in really, the fixing pins of the switch are loose. Maybe its fine with the plate, but damn, really dissappointed....
am I able to do this on a pre sautered keyboard?
razer switches please
Anyone here tired to make a Think6.5 V2 hotswap? Did it worked? And how was it?
will the 0305 fit on Anne Pro 2 pcb?
Has someone tried this with zelios with success?
Cherry blue difficulty? Yes.
One question will this work on every keyboard?
It will work on virtually all custom boards, but I’m not sure how well it will work on pre builts. Also I wouldn’t do this on either a half plate or plate less build or on any build that has a lot of flex as that will mess with the friction of the sockets
You're amazing! Subscribed!
Haha no YOU’RE amazing thanks a lot!
1:52 I thought that's one hot iron but then you said imperial
Im gonna buy a kailh instead
Its expensive as hell
You are a butcher with the solder... 😝
God I love tutorials like this. Short, straight to the point, high quality and informative. Thank you
razer switches please
Very well made video! Definitely the first video I've seen about mill-max sockets, insta-sub!
Great video and great timing! It's kind of sad when you buy an awesome keyboard but dread desoldering switches to customize it, I will likely being doing this to many of my keyboards :)
Cherry blue difficulty: Yes
intentional or just crazy difficult?
Nobody ever needs to make a video about this again, this is flawless. Thank you
Cherry Blue difficulty: YES
Lol typo :p fixed in the spreadsheet
man i'm starting to regret getting box jades haven't even used them yet... sigh.😑😔
Old video but still worth
nice tutorial but instead of doing all that and buying the tools, i might aswell get a new keyboard
In the realm of custom keyboards where you can easily spend hundreds of dollars, soldering your own mill max sockets is still interesting for many. This also applies to cheaper but very special devices like macropads. Don't draw conclusions about others too easily.
Hello nice video
mi question is:
this can be used for mouse (similary at Rog chakram by ASUS)
I'm thinking on doing this to the Ducky mecha mini and the Durgod Venus. I really love both boards but i was wondering if it's worth it.
Hey love this video and thanks for the info. Subscribing now. I have a Durgod Fusion (not hot swap) board, and I'd love to install Mill Max's. But they already have sockets in them. How do I get those out?
Thank you for this video. Great detail, easy to understand your explanations & full of useful info! I've been wanting to start modding my red led corsair k70 recently so being able to have the switches hotswapable is a game changer!
this video was a life saver when i did my kbd67, Thanks a lot!
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching :)
KeyBonbon thank you!
Interesting I probably wont change switched tho now that i haeve l+f alpacas that imma solder soon
what if the switch has LEDs? I assume there will be additional sockets that feed power into the RGB contact points for the LED?
How should I go with making my Redragon Aryaman K569 RGB Hotswappable? I don't know which sockets to get for 4-pin RGB diodes. Can you please help?
Thank you very much for such an informative video. I look forward to great things coming from this channel.
Is it possible to do this on HyperX alloy origins core?
First excuse me for my bad English from Google Translate xD... These types of "sockets" are made to be placed on boards that were not designed to be placed with hotswap sockets such as Kailh or Gateron? In other words, by placing this type of Mill-Max socket where the switch would normally be soldered directly, would our board, which is not designed to be hotswap, now be?
FYI, Linjar switches, which are a recolored gateron yellow for the most part, have one pin that is too wide to work with these sockets. You have to file the pin down to make them fit.
cool thanks for letting me know! I added to spreadsheet :)
Very well done! keep it up!
Thinking of converting my Ducky Shine 7 into a hotswappable board.. I've grown a bit bored of the mx blues.
I am wondering is it possible to just insert all the millmax sockets (no switches) for the entire pcb then just put masking tape on the flush side to ensure flush fit. Then turn pcb around and solder everything at once. This way you ensure all sockets are flat regardless of any possibility of bent pin on defective switches, and soldering all sockets at once should cut down one total installation time. Let me know what you think.
PS: if you are worried about mistakenly soldering I to the socket opening, maybe try insert one tooth pick in each pair of the socket you are soldering, then just move them from socket to socket before soldering.
Hi could you please test the difficulty of Aliaz switches?
hey I actually have some aliaz switches on the way for a vid comparing all silent tactiles, I’ll test them as soon as they arrive :)
Can you update on the new mill-max sizes for kailh. Which would you suggest 7305 or 3305-x varuajtv
wow what a video. Question. I have an Razer Blackwindow V3 TKL and i want to make it hot swap. Which i need to get?
Thanks for the video. I just ordered 0305 from Mouser for my dz60 keyboard.