i live near the Smeysberg in Belgium(featured in the WC 2022) i have ridden it a couple of times and i always start from the bottom to keep more speed on the uphill. last time i did this and to not be overgeared i tried to change gears but something went wrong when changing gears so it didnt change smoothly and i lost a lot almost all of my momentum. Still beat my previous 1 minute power PB with 100 Watts so was happy with that
As a 57 year-old 350 lbs man, I'm slowly getting into climbs on my rides. Learning how to get out of the saddle has helped tremendously. I've been able to ride up some 5-6% grades lately so that's been a boost in confidence. Thanks for the tips you shared here. Onwards and upwards!
Keep going my friend. Like you, I am a heavier cyclist - currently 253lb (115kg for the uninitiated) - and 68 years old. I've shed 22lb (10kg) in the last 3 months and it has helped my climbing no end but I still struggle on steep or long climbs. I'm determined to get slimmer and fitter and the climbing will get easier.🙂
Great to hear you are getting into climbing, it's part of cycling that is hard to avoid... so enjoying them can really help. Glad we could help you out a little, keep it up 🙌
Damn that's awesome, I start to struggle with sustained +4% gradients and I'm only a 39year old lugging around 145lbs up the hills. I almost always stick with the flats and only go up one out two smaller hills on a hour or two long ride
The best Tip is: Have Easy Enough Gears that make u able to spin 90+ with ease so focus on a minimum 50-34 front and at back at least 32-34 cassete and that is ideal for starters
Totally agree, For years I have been climbing the mountain passes here in northern Italy with a steel bike 39-53 front and 10-28 rear. I couldn’t really do more 100km as I was getting sooo tired and I was wondering why most people was overtaking me. Now I went 34-50 front and 11-32 rear. Never looking back, it unlocked so many more possibilities in terms of routes I can take. And no more sore knees
Yet another Celtic duo vid that addresses cycling questions for the average rider. Gearing is soo important I've found. The 3X chainring on my road bike (a sister to Felix' s 'dream bike' ) makes horrible climbs doable. Loved the vid!!!
Unbelievably Dura Ace now have a 1:1 gear ratio (34/34). This is what I’ve been using for touring (28/28 with a triple) for the past 30 years, including bike camping. Norfolk, Lincolnshire, Netherlands? No, Sierra Nevada, Cascades and Norway… and I’m not a strong bike rider.
Start your climb in the lowest gears, then as you near the top start going up the cassette. Too many of my mates still hit the bottom of the climb too hard and then spend the rest of it trying to recover from that initial effort and moving to the easiest gears (until they run out of them). I might get dropped initially, but time and again I'll crest first.
Zig zag and make full use of the clock in your pedal stroke. As soon as you're reaching dead spots on your stroke, that's how you stall on a hill climb. Keep that pedal stroke going and practice climbing hills on the regular to get better at it. This is from someone who rides a single speed in a hilly neighborhood. The steepest in my area is a 9.5% grade climb that spans for about 300m which I have done a few times. But it can definitely gas me out even though my legs aren't tired. I recommend trying out a single speed, it'll make you quite strong.
Dude..I just started cycling. It's like my 3rd day and I live in an are where it's just uphill and downhill. The whole are is up and down everywhere. Climbing up is so so hard. What am I supposed to do to get better at them ? Workout certain muscles ? Super confused
Because I don't live in a hilly area, I've been practicing climbing on my indoor trainer with ROUVY. I must say, I improved and can't wait to try it on real terrain.:)
Agree with you Manon on body position and sitting down! I'd prefer siting down over the popularized advice of standing up, don't have to worry about shifting to a better gearing for standing up, lower COG helps on balancing on the bike. More consistent power as well, Also agree on gearing ! Why is the norm a 1:1 ratio? I use that even on slopes as shallow as 5%. It should be much higher than that. I hate hate HATE that I have to dive into full specs list to see what the gearing is for new bikes. Step it up!
My cross bikes low is 1:1, but my new all road build low is 30x36, and I am glad I have them. I can spin up the steepest climbs here instead of stand and grind. Feel much better going over the top and continuing on.
I think standing up pedaling only works for lighter riders because for them, standing up increases the power by a smaller amount compared to heavier riders. I am 225 lbs (around 100 kg) and my ftp is at around 250 watts - if I stand up on the pedals, I have found no way of putting out less than 450 watts (sometimes more), which is simply not sustainable for long. If i need to put that amount of power, I can do it sitting down. And unless one's technique is really good (mine is not) and your hips can pivot, pedaling standing up is very wasteful as part of your power is wasted raising your body up and down. I always admire professional riders who pedal standing up and tilt the bike and rotate their heaps such that their body remains perfectly level - no wasted energy whatsoever. But I have more or less given up on stand-up pedaling.
Really great info on this video, I usually avoid hills like the plague, but had an "epic" ride with two of my buddies a few weeks ago, one climb, all the way down to our lunch stop "North hill" in Essex, all the way down thinking, we've got to cycle back up this one! What made it worse, I put the route together 🤣but I did it, really proud of myself, shows if I can do it, anyone can 😉
I plan to convert to 1x8 because I never use my smaller chainring only my 53t. uphill or downhill I just change my gears in the back, havent even used the 28t in the back yet so if all of you are really getting this tired then I suggest to get stronger and better cardiovascular endurance. NO EXCUSE unless your old then maybe
I do 20% rides on grave paths and tarmac quite often and i tend to pick someting as a target not too far say 20 meters away focus on that then repeat small goals
Gear selection and cadence is really not an option when you ride a 40+ years old road bike with 2x6 gears and down tube shifters... Makes climbing a whole different ball game and I really start to appreciate the riders of the past who had to deal with these sort of "limitations" (as we would now call it from our perspective)!
@@gcn I found it difficult with the 2x6 system, because you either have big jumps in your gears or must decide between fast gears and easy gears. Maybe you could make a video about upgrading to larger gearsets like 2x7/8/9/10? That would be awsome!
I don't have a favorite steep climb, but I do have maybe 4-5km of uneven climbs that are 5% at the shallowest and up to 13% at the steepest that I have to get up to get to and from home :) Note: I am far from a climber, and my lowest gears are a 34-28 but I at least got strong enough to maintain a 75rpm cadence up them now! 34-34 coming soon....
@@gcn The flatter sections I drop down a few gears, or shift the front chainring if I’m feeling good, but after the third of five climbs I just stick to 34-28 and 34-25 till I get home up a final 13%-er wall just before the house.
I’m getting back into cycling after a 15 yr hiatus. There are no flat rides where I live in the mountains. #1 for me is loose access weight asap. I’m a big frame 6’ tall guy. I used be 165lbs and super skinny when I was younger and riding seriously. Now I’m 15yrs older and 216…..going up hills, it’s like riding with a 50 lb backpack!! I’m counting calories for the 1st time ever…just to shave as much weight as I can to make the climbs easier!
Used to do 15%+ gradients on my old bike sometimes which has an easiest gear of 39-28. When I got the new one it goes down to 34-32 and its a big difference when the road kicks up.
I have always struggled with whether I should go to a harder gear and then stand and pedal at a low cadence, or go to an easy gear, sit on the saddle and use a high cadence to get to the top. I've just realized recently that for longer climbs, an easy gear, sitting and pedalling at a higher cadence is better on my knees and doesn't leave my legs as fatigued. On very short steep climbs, I'll stand and use a harder gear. And once I can no longer pedal, I walk my bike up. 😂
Sounds like you've got it sorted! Grinding and spinning can come down to the rider but as a general rule a spinning gear for longer climbs will be more efficient! Have you got any long climbs in mind?
Doesn't matter how low a gear you select or can select, there are climbs where it is so steep that you can benefit from learning to stand and pedal as slow as you would walk. Let your weight do the work while just lifting your legs. This gives the big muscles a rest for when you get back to a lower more manageable grade.
Super helpful content again gcn and Manon and Conor! I particularly find the body position and restarting on a climb helpful! Going up the Keddy trail (Niagara Escarpment) can be a bit of a slog here in Hamilton Ontario. The tips help!
Pedalling while not clipped in with SPD-SL is... an art. I find it almost impossible to put any pressure on the pedal without being clipped in. SPD are _much_ easier to use without clipping in
I have a few tips as well: 1. Maintain breathing so you would only struggle with muscle burns and not stamina 2. If you're a new guy dont strain yourself maintain your pace, even if it's lmost a soeed of walking on foot 3. Become a food courier and make deliveries on bike, working out and getting paid for it might motivate you more lol
I just went from a touring bike (3x9) to a gravel bike (2x10) and I really notice the difference on 10% gradients. I struggle with my gravel bike, whereas before I could always get up the half mile long 10% climb beside me, albeit fairly puckled reaching the top. I just can’t get up on my gravel bike. I realise I need my fitness to improve after 6 months of illness but, still, I expected it to get up it. Anyway, I already do most of the tips here, except the motivational bit. I never think I’m going to smash it, but I do tell myself I can do it. Maybe I just need to be more motivational!
Curious to know what the lowest gear on the "gravel" bike is.... bet it's just 34/34 or some other nonsense wholly unsuitable for steep stuff unless you're ideal weight and fit.... a gravel bike should IMO have 30/46 by 11-42. The lowest spec Merlin Malt with Claris has a laughable 34/28.... The average "gravel" bike is more like a "cycle path" bike, in reality it should have low gearing almost as low as an XC bike.... But you can't keep a good fad down....Your motivation is clearly fine it just seems like you've gone backwards in your upgrade...
Hopefully you can get up the climb soon! There may be a way of getting lower gears fitted, maybe head to your local bike shop and see if they can help.
@@Bazza1968 My Tour de Fer has 48-36-26 crankset and 11-32T. My Liv Devote 1 is 32-48 and 11-34. Admittedly, I’m not the most knowledgeable. I had to ‘upgrade’ not due to a fad but due to a coccyx injury.I couldn’t sit upright on my tourer without severe pain so I hired a gravel bike with road tyres for an Etape the day before the event and discovered I could ride pain free due to the forward position. I had a year of pain then was suddenly pain-free so I went and bought a bike and was told the gearing should be enough…
@@gcn Yes, I may have to do that. Luckily, I just started volunteering at a bike charity who fix and build bikes for free hire to the public. The guys who’s teaching me happens to work at the bike shop I bought both of my bikes from, so he should be able to steer me the right way, I hope!
@@heatherbellbikes And your lowest gear is, please?? GCN skirt around important issues like this, so many "complete" bikes are sold to people that are not suitable for what they need, their age, flexibility, fitness, terrain, and it seems the industry neither cares or listens....Bikepacking on a gravel bike is simply (faster) touring re-branded, and I bet lots of people are buying these overgeared bikes, adding another 10-15kg of "bikepacking" bags swinging all over the place then ending up pushing them up a 5% gradient and wishing they'd kept their 90's rigid steel 22/32/42 x 11-32 MTB with V brake upgrade...
Being over geared is quite common especially for us old school riders,on steep or longer climbs spinning an easier gear is the way. Something you did not cover here is core strength, lower back and transverse abdominus (the core girdle).Make this strong and you will be stable and able to put the power down and stop wasting energy rocking from side to side. Mtb skills will help with picking a line and traction.
I am learning that picking a line while climbing on dirt and gravel transfers well to riding on pavement/tarmac. I panic much less at the appearance of a few little pebbles and keep my eyes/head up.
Having only three gears simplifies things for me. If it’s a slope of any length, just drop into the lowest gear and spin. After all, I’ve read about Paul Rozelle riding all four routes up Mont Ventoux in a single day using a fixed gear. For the hills and bridges of NYC, three speeds are enough!
Another approach to getting restarted on a steep climb is a U-turn. Go down the hill as slow as you can just to have enough time to clip in and get in the right gear. Then turn around and go up
it's the psychology of the climb. I find when I look down immediately ahead of me (NOT up at the wall) I summit far easier. getting the gears right should make it no more difficult than a 3% gradient
I noticed a big difference going from an old MTB with a 3x6 to a gravel bike with a Shimano Sora 2x9, some reviews have called it overgeared (at least on my bike, Voodoo Nakisi) but I've found it ideal for me. There's a brief VERY steep climb on the cycle path route back to my house that I rarely used to run up, never mind cycle but the Nakisi can handle it and the hills on the road sections of NCR74 near me.
I’ve tried to make it second nature to at least shift to the smaller ring in advance of such climbs. Then the “fine tuning” by gradual shifts between sprockets becomes more workable.
3:04 About bodyposition, it is one thing you don't mentioned. The speed is probably 10-15 kph at least in the end of the position. Aero isn't the most critical. Your hands on top of the handlebar, straighten out the body to get maximal power. That position is as aero as a barm door but it dosen't matter.
Hi, You guys do a great job overall, with a lot of entertaining variation in content. Especially difficult to achieve considering the numerous demographic groups you cater for. One subject I'd be interested for you to cover, is for the more mature rider cycling into their 50s and onwards. I have recently read Joe Friel's book "Fast after 50" (wish I found this 10 years earlier), and found it a fascinating read. It does cover a wide spectrum of subjects, not just racing but he does put forward really interesting points regarding reducing the natural decline in muscle-mass and Vo2. And how best to slow this natural decline for as long as possible. I do feel this would certainly appeal to the older riders in your community, especially those who come to cycling a bit later on in life. Would be interesting to see you do a piece on this subject and as I'm just looking out for a sequel "Not too slow after 60" 😁 thanks Sean
Haha yeah I too have a 17% bit (only about 100m of it) at the end of a climb near me. 1x to the rescue lol. Most of the time I don’t need that monstrous 50t dinner plate on the back really, but when the gradients are over 13/14% or so it’s a lifesaver! There’s also a section on a gravel route near me that’s all over the place but seems to mostly be about 15% and then I really need the big’un. It’s a bit loose so the tyre will slip sometimes and if you come to an actual stop when it does trying to get going again in a higher gear is brutal…. Though trying to get going without the front wheel looping over your head is also a bit of a challenge in such a low gear on a steep slope lol!
Yes it is. I‘ve got 50/34 on my roadbike, 46/30 on my gravel bike. Both with 11-34 cassettes. The gravelbike climbs easier on the steepest gradients. I also recently had to climb a very steep hill with paniers front and back plus towing the 4yo girl on her bike. No way on 50/34.
The kids are spoiled now. In the bad old days, we all used a 42x21 low gear. If you couldn't get up the hill in that, you got dropped. ☹Hill climbing is really about fitness, not tips, but despite that, here's another tip from the old days: if you find yourself somewhat overgeared on a steep section, learn to pedal 360 degrees. In other words, take advantage of those cleats and pull up on the pedals. It can drastically increase your torque for short periods.
That would be a gear ratio of 2.00. My lowest gear ratio is 1.36 (34 x 25, similar to 36 x 30) and it's not easy for me to climb up a 7.4% gradient. Some who have a 34 x 34 granny gear already have to walk their bike up halfway up the climb.
Always good idea to have a casette that match the gradient so you always have that panic gear in the back of your mind. Where i live i can ride 100 km and only have climbed 25 vertical meters. And i rode rocacorba this summer alot of times. First time i rode more than 50 vertical meters lol. But that panic gear really saved me after 600 meters with 340 watts i didnt explode i blew UP🧨 really underestimated it thought how hard can it really be Ive tried climbing in zwift thousand’s of times. Just never tried ride a real mountain in 40 degrees. And absolutely no wind. Some sections with 13 % gradient man that casette saved my life that first day🥵🥴😂
wanna climb with ease? all my bikes have cranks with srams old 3bolt spider system. my gravel bike uses a eagle 11-50t cassette and normally 46t AB oval ring. but it's the work of moments pop the dub crank off and swap that for a 32T or smaller ring and spin up anything hahah
34 x 32 should get you up just about any climb 34 x34 all climbs. Unless you really heavy. Climbing don't spin to fast on a long climb keep a constant cadence make sure you are not pushing hard with a pedal stroke and then easing up so you have a stop and start motion you need to keep the pedals flowing around smoothly so you have a constant forward smooth motion
Gears... Somehow I managed a 500m climb of 20% with a 52/36 chain ring 11-34 cassette. Thought I'd die. Really starting to wonder if I should downgrade some and get a 50/34 tooth chain ring.
That's my gearing right now. Bike came with a 11-28 cassette lol. Imagine my face when i went bikepacking and we did some passes in the italian alps. That 34 on the back is right on the edge to make it bearable but i still have to put out like 300W to have an acceptable cadence.
@@xGshikamaru it's not very common for road bikes to have such small chain rings and I'm pretty positive my rear derailleur will not officially take a bigger cassette.
how often are you in 52/11? 12? 13? I'd even say go 46/30 if the answer is "not very often/at all" as my answer was. I still never used the 46/11 even coming down Cairngorm Mountain yesterday.....
@@Bazza1968 pretty often. I'm a speed freak and have ridden motorcycles all my life. It's common for me to hit speeds of 60 to 70kph down hill. Once even saw 78 🙂
As a beginner I always approach in a super easy gear and spin my way up through a climb... I want to try getting out of the saddle but with my heart racing it seems impossible when actually climbing...
Moved into a new house and it is on a hill. There is no way for me to go out for even a few miles without getting 500-750' of elevation gain. A longer ride of 15+ miles? Easily can get up to 1500' in my area on the flattest course. Prior to this even my longer rides would barely see 500' of elevation gain! (Colorado, USA) I'm very new to this type of elevation gain (at my already high standing elevation of 6200' above sea level) and it is really impacting my cycling! I want to go out more, but I am wrecked after every session and can no longer go on lunch rides or morning rides before work unless it's on the trainer because I am wrecked. I am realizing now that I may need to invest in some new equipment/setup to ease this transition until I can build up for this elevation to be normal for me. If anyone else has experienced a sudden change like this any you have any tips, I would love to hear them. Thanks!
Living in the Scottish Highlands I'm only at 1000ft ASL but my advice would be (FWIW)- gear down significantly- crankset preferably to maintain closer ratios at the back.... I looked at a chart and at my elevation it's 20.1% oxygen (20.9% is sea level)...you're looking at just 16% approximately.... life will be hard on the bike until you adjust to your altitude.... if you're running relatively high gearing for flatter conditions (say 52 or 50 by 25 or 28) it'll be a nightmare pushing hills at altitude!!! Me- I'd go 46/30 by 11/34
Do climbs on a daily basis about 400m of climbing for a short ride, up to 1850m of climbing on longer rides. Average gradient on the 400m climbs are about 8% but with harder sections at 12-16%. Use a 50/34 chainring and a 28/11 cassette. Best tips I can give is, dont stop, and never use your lightest gear execpt for the really steep parts or at the very end of the climb
@@OCRHPZA for longer rides, yes it's a bad idea... But I said "short". My short rides are exactly that, short. Roughly 8 mins of decent and 23 mins of climbing (don't have much time for longer rides). Since it's a short ride, I try to go as hard as I can on the climb, since 23mins of hard climbing isn't that long. It comes down to pacing once you know the climb... I just say, try to not be on your last gear until you really need it, it's also a huge boost mentally when you have been going hard for 5-10 mins, and drop into the easiest gear for a minute, and then go at it hard again... But everyone is different, just saying what's helped me climb the local climbs faster
hi all i have a road bike and in the wheel it write 110psi pressure but i live in U.A.E dubai and as u know its very hot city so do u think if i kake it 110psi with this hot inflate more and damage? and wt best psi i can do for that case?
I was climbing a 20% gradient with 30t in the front and 42 in the back. While I can still climb, I fell a few times cause my rear tire keep slipping (I was riding on dry tarmac so it's not a slippery road). Any idea why?
Numero uno tip: Do not spend thousands of dollars to buy an aero yet heavy road bike. This will force manufacturers to put their aero bikes on a diet to be worthy of the high price tag.
@@matt_acton-varian There are a few aero bikes now that weigh less than that. There is even an aero bike just weighing 7 kilos (without pedals) which means it can be done.
@@jestag2 I know there are, but I built my bike up with secondhand parts (frameset ncluded) for a little over £1000. If I were to replace my winter/commuter bike as like for like as possible (Alloy frame full carbon forks, Tiagra 4700, but switching to disc brakes) but also needing to buy mudguard and a rack as my current ones don't fit, I would have to spend the same.
Don’t assume it’s all in the gearing, a heavy bike with very low gears will still be harder to climb with than a light bike with relatively high gearing. Gravity is a cruel mistress
Can I ask a question How do you all use clipless pedals on steep hill climbing if you get tried or have to stop quickly because of road hazard without falling down because you can't get foot out of pedal quickly enough to stabilize yourself.Because I have tried to do that and have almost killed myself doing so.
Great question! It can be hard work and takes lots of practice. We would suggest holding yourself near a wall to help practice clipping in and out. Be sure to get the correct cleats, this can help make clipping in and out better! 👉 ruclips.net/video/H6h30OqTyTg/видео.html
I climbed Bwlch y Groes (three ways) and Stwlan Dam last week. Thank heavens for 30 - 32 gearing. I prefer to climb seated because I can't stand for 2km; so why bother?
Best tip I've found that really helps is that is to go slow as possible at the beginning of a steep climb . I nearly always catch up and even overtake those who bomb off at the beginning.
Climbing is about one thing: weight. Top TDF climbers are 60kg. VO2 + lowest possible weight = climb anything anywhere. Clips and cleats are a very bad idea for anyone struggling to climb. Use flats!
I try to get off my saddle but by the time I feel like I need it, I'm already gassed. Legs are jelly, ~15 pedal strokes in and I need to sit back down.
i live in the area where 10-15% steep is considered as normal and climb can reached up to 25-30%, at this gradient no matter what gearing you have on road bike, most probably u gonna suffer like hell.
Lowest gear I have, expect to go slow, put on some music blasting from my speakers. Just admit that fast isn't happening, and wait for the reward at the top: ZOOMIES on the way down! WHEEEEE.
I am positive about climbs. I'm positive I hate them with every fibre of my body. The only reason I can see for climbs ever existing is for the fun of riding back down. I just wish I lived somewhere closer to uplifts.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Have you got any climbing tips? 🗻
No
Weigh less and be fitter?
Stay away from the climbs :-)
i live near the Smeysberg in Belgium(featured in the WC 2022) i have ridden it a couple of times and i always start from the bottom to keep more speed on the uphill. last time i did this and to not be overgeared i tried to change gears but something went wrong when changing gears so it didnt change smoothly and i lost a lot almost all of my momentum. Still beat my previous 1 minute power PB with 100 Watts so was happy with that
Don’t bother shaving grams off your bike… just loose a couple of pounds riding and you’ll climb MUCH faster!
As a 57 year-old 350 lbs man, I'm slowly getting into climbs on my rides. Learning how to get out of the saddle has helped tremendously. I've been able to ride up some 5-6% grades lately so that's been a boost in confidence. Thanks for the tips you shared here. Onwards and upwards!
Keep going my friend. Like you, I am a heavier cyclist - currently 253lb (115kg for the uninitiated) - and 68 years old. I've shed 22lb (10kg) in the last 3 months and it has helped my climbing no end but I still struggle on steep or long climbs. I'm determined to get slimmer and fitter and the climbing will get easier.🙂
Well done fellas keep on spinning!
Great to hear you are getting into climbing, it's part of cycling that is hard to avoid... so enjoying them can really help. Glad we could help you out a little, keep it up 🙌
Damn that's awesome, I start to struggle with sustained +4% gradients and I'm only a 39year old lugging around 145lbs up the hills. I almost always stick with the flats and only go up one out two smaller hills on a hour or two long ride
Keep at it we’re all rooting for you!
The best Tip is: Have Easy Enough Gears that make u able to spin 90+ with ease so focus on a minimum 50-34 front and at back at least 32-34 cassete and that is ideal for starters
Totally agree,
For years I have been climbing the mountain passes here in northern Italy with a steel bike 39-53 front and 10-28 rear.
I couldn’t really do more 100km as I was getting sooo tired and I was wondering why most people was overtaking me.
Now I went 34-50 front and 11-32 rear.
Never looking back, it unlocked so many more possibilities in terms of routes I can take. And no more sore knees
I think you’ve completely underestimated the problem! 😂
Totally true😊
Yet another Celtic duo vid that addresses cycling questions for the average rider. Gearing is soo important I've found. The 3X chainring on my road bike (a sister to Felix' s 'dream bike' ) makes horrible climbs doable. Loved the vid!!!
Triple here too. Really helps me
Celtic duo?
Who's welsh?@@duncana51
Gravel bike with triple gears up front. Wouldn’t try climbing without my “Granny Gears “. Lol
Thumbs up for 3x crankset, dont care if it is considered old fashioned and uncool
Unbelievably Dura Ace now have a 1:1 gear ratio (34/34). This is what I’ve been using for touring (28/28 with a triple) for the past 30 years, including bike camping. Norfolk, Lincolnshire, Netherlands? No, Sierra Nevada, Cascades and Norway… and I’m not a strong bike rider.
Start your climb in the lowest gears, then as you near the top start going up the cassette. Too many of my mates still hit the bottom of the climb too hard and then spend the rest of it trying to recover from that initial effort and moving to the easiest gears (until they run out of them). I might get dropped initially, but time and again I'll crest first.
Zig zag and make full use of the clock in your pedal stroke.
As soon as you're reaching dead spots on your stroke, that's how you stall on a hill climb.
Keep that pedal stroke going and practice climbing hills on the regular to get better at it. This is from someone who rides a single speed in a hilly neighborhood.
The steepest in my area is a 9.5% grade climb that spans for about 300m which I have done a few times. But it can definitely gas me out even though my legs aren't tired. I recommend trying out a single speed, it'll make you quite strong.
Dude..I just started cycling. It's like my 3rd day and I live in an are where it's just uphill and downhill. The whole are is up and down everywhere. Climbing up is so so hard. What am I supposed to do to get better at them ? Workout certain muscles ? Super confused
Love how you're explaining it while you're doing it. You guys (and girls) are so down to earth and relatable. Thanks!
Our pleasure! Hopefuly this helps you kill it on the local climbs now 🙌
My tip: If there is a serious climb, drop onto the small chainring, largest cog and wait for it to end. Plus: go compact.
Great tips! Thanks Manon and Conor! 💪
Because I don't live in a hilly area, I've been practicing climbing on my indoor trainer with ROUVY. I must say, I improved and can't wait to try it on real terrain.:)
Agree with you Manon on body position and sitting down! I'd prefer siting down over the popularized advice of standing up, don't have to worry about shifting to a better gearing for standing up, lower COG helps on balancing on the bike. More consistent power as well,
Also agree on gearing ! Why is the norm a 1:1 ratio? I use that even on slopes as shallow as 5%. It should be much higher than that. I hate hate HATE that I have to dive into full specs list to see what the gearing is for new bikes. Step it up!
My cross bikes low is 1:1, but my new all road build low is 30x36, and I am glad I have them. I can spin up the steepest climbs here instead of stand and grind. Feel much better going over the top and continuing on.
I think standing up pedaling only works for lighter riders because for them, standing up increases the power by a smaller amount compared to heavier riders. I am 225 lbs (around 100 kg) and my ftp is at around 250 watts - if I stand up on the pedals, I have found no way of putting out less than 450 watts (sometimes more), which is simply not sustainable for long. If i need to put that amount of power, I can do it sitting down. And unless one's technique is really good (mine is not) and your hips can pivot, pedaling standing up is very wasteful as part of your power is wasted raising your body up and down. I always admire professional riders who pedal standing up and tilt the bike and rotate their heaps such that their body remains perfectly level - no wasted energy whatsoever. But I have more or less given up on stand-up pedaling.
Love the tips! I’ve got GRX 2x gears with 48/31 on the front and 11-34 at the back.
The 31-34 really helps on the super steep 15%+ hills.
Really great info on this video, I usually avoid hills like the plague, but had an "epic" ride with two of my buddies a few weeks ago, one climb, all the way down to our lunch stop "North hill" in Essex, all the way down thinking, we've got to cycle back up this one! What made it worse, I put the route together 🤣but I did it, really proud of myself, shows if I can do it, anyone can 😉
Hahaha it's hard to avoid those big hills on epic rides! We hope the climb was worth the lunch 👀
@@gcn lunch was fabulous, the climb back out, not so much 😆😆
I plan to convert to 1x8 because I never use my smaller chainring only my 53t. uphill or downhill I just change my gears in the back, havent even used the 28t in the back yet so if all of you are really getting this tired then I suggest to get stronger and better cardiovascular endurance. NO EXCUSE unless your old then maybe
I do 20% rides on grave paths and tarmac quite often and i tend to pick someting as a target not too far say 20 meters away focus on that then repeat small goals
These tips sure help me conquer the steep climbs here in Southern Oregon in the USA. The grades here can get as steep as 10%.
Gear selection and cadence is really not an option when you ride a 40+ years old road bike with 2x6 gears and down tube shifters... Makes climbing a whole different ball game and I really start to appreciate the riders of the past who had to deal with these sort of "limitations" (as we would now call it from our perspective)!
Same experience here. Had a 2x6 52/42 + 14-28 for years. Totally different game than modern bikes. Below 16km/h and it’s cadence.
@@MrDaemondays makes for good training though ;)
just get a Pinarello 🤣
Hahaha yes those old school bikes are a little less forgiving on the climbs 😂 How about updating the bike to modern gears?
@@gcn I found it difficult with the 2x6 system, because you either have big jumps in your gears or must decide between fast gears and easy gears. Maybe you could make a video about upgrading to larger gearsets like 2x7/8/9/10? That would be awsome!
I don't have a favorite steep climb, but I do have maybe 4-5km of uneven climbs that are 5% at the shallowest and up to 13% at the steepest that I have to get up to get to and from home :)
Note: I am far from a climber, and my lowest gears are a 34-28 but I at least got strong enough to maintain a 75rpm cadence up them now! 34-34 coming soon....
Sounds like a great climb 🙌 Those un-even climbs can be hard to find a rhythm. Are you staying in the same gear or do you keep shifting?
@@gcn The flatter sections I drop down a few gears, or shift the front chainring if I’m feeling good, but after the third of five climbs I just stick to 34-28 and 34-25 till I get home up a final 13%-er wall just before the house.
I’m getting back into cycling after a 15 yr hiatus. There are no flat rides where I live in the mountains. #1 for me is loose access weight asap. I’m a big frame 6’ tall guy. I used be 165lbs and super skinny when I was younger and riding seriously. Now I’m 15yrs older and 216…..going up hills, it’s like riding with a 50 lb backpack!! I’m counting calories for the 1st time ever…just to shave as much weight as I can to make the climbs easier!
Used to do 15%+ gradients on my old bike sometimes which has an easiest gear of 39-28. When I got the new one it goes down to 34-32 and its a big difference when the road kicks up.
which one is easier?
34-32 is much easier/slower gear
Manon's brake pads are squeaking slightly 02:50-03:00
We'll get here watching some GCN Tech 👉 ruclips.net/video/KWMTwil3qyA/видео.html
I have always struggled with whether I should go to a harder gear and then stand and pedal at a low cadence, or go to an easy gear, sit on the saddle and use a high cadence to get to the top. I've just realized recently that for longer climbs, an easy gear, sitting and pedalling at a higher cadence is better on my knees and doesn't leave my legs as fatigued. On very short steep climbs, I'll stand and use a harder gear.
And once I can no longer pedal, I walk my bike up. 😂
Sounds like you've got it sorted! Grinding and spinning can come down to the rider but as a general rule a spinning gear for longer climbs will be more efficient! Have you got any long climbs in mind?
Doesn't matter how low a gear you select or can select, there are climbs where it is so steep that you can benefit from learning to stand and pedal as slow as you would walk. Let your weight do the work while just lifting your legs. This gives the big muscles a rest for when you get back to a lower more manageable grade.
Sounds like you've got experience of this 👀
Super helpful content again gcn and Manon and Conor! I particularly find the body position and restarting on a climb helpful! Going up the Keddy trail (Niagara Escarpment) can be a bit of a slog here in Hamilton Ontario. The tips help!
Sounds like a tough climb! Glad we could get you up the climb 🙌
Why is Manon's Pinarello squeaking like that 🤣
LOL 😆
Pedalling while not clipped in with SPD-SL is... an art. I find it almost impossible to put any pressure on the pedal without being clipped in. SPD are _much_ easier to use without clipping in
Not necessarily…or may be it’s because I’m just new to all this!
My gears is Chainring 46/33t…Cassette 10/36t 😂🎉 Maybe it’s enough for climbing 🙄🤢🤔🥵 7% ~ 15 % slope ⛰️uphill 🚴♂️…or getting off bike😂 by walking
I have a few tips as well:
1. Maintain breathing so you would only struggle with muscle burns and not stamina
2. If you're a new guy dont strain yourself maintain your pace, even if it's lmost a soeed of walking on foot
3. Become a food courier and make deliveries on bike, working out and getting paid for it might motivate you more lol
I just went from a touring bike (3x9) to a gravel bike (2x10) and I really notice the difference on 10% gradients. I struggle with my gravel bike, whereas before I could always get up the half mile long 10% climb beside me, albeit fairly puckled reaching the top. I just can’t get up on my gravel bike. I realise I need my fitness to improve after 6 months of illness but, still, I expected it to get up it. Anyway, I already do most of the tips here, except the motivational bit. I never think I’m going to smash it, but I do tell myself I can do it. Maybe I just need to be more motivational!
Curious to know what the lowest gear on the "gravel" bike is.... bet it's just 34/34 or some other nonsense wholly unsuitable for steep stuff unless you're ideal weight and fit.... a gravel bike should IMO have 30/46 by 11-42. The lowest spec Merlin Malt with Claris has a laughable 34/28.... The average "gravel" bike is more like a "cycle path" bike, in reality it should have low gearing almost as low as an XC bike.... But you can't keep a good fad down....Your motivation is clearly fine it just seems like you've gone backwards in your upgrade...
Hopefully you can get up the climb soon! There may be a way of getting lower gears fitted, maybe head to your local bike shop and see if they can help.
@@Bazza1968 My Tour de Fer has 48-36-26 crankset and 11-32T. My Liv Devote 1 is 32-48 and 11-34. Admittedly, I’m not the most knowledgeable.
I had to ‘upgrade’ not due to a fad but due to a coccyx injury.I couldn’t sit upright on my tourer without severe pain so I hired a gravel bike with road tyres for an Etape the day before the event and discovered I could ride pain free due to the forward position. I had a year of pain then was suddenly pain-free so I went and bought a bike and was told the gearing should be enough…
@@gcn Yes, I may have to do that. Luckily, I just started volunteering at a bike charity who fix and build bikes for free hire to the public. The guys who’s teaching me happens to work at the bike shop I bought both of my bikes from, so he should be able to steer me the right way, I hope!
@@heatherbellbikes And your lowest gear is, please?? GCN skirt around important issues like this, so many "complete" bikes are sold to people that are not suitable for what they need, their age, flexibility, fitness, terrain, and it seems the industry neither cares or listens....Bikepacking on a gravel bike is simply (faster) touring re-branded, and I bet lots of people are buying these overgeared bikes, adding another 10-15kg of "bikepacking" bags swinging all over the place then ending up pushing them up a 5% gradient and wishing they'd kept their 90's rigid steel 22/32/42 x 11-32 MTB with V brake upgrade...
Being over geared is quite common especially for us old school riders,on steep or longer climbs spinning an easier gear is the way.
Something you did not cover here is core strength,
lower back and transverse abdominus (the core girdle).Make this strong and you will be stable and able to put the power down and stop wasting energy rocking from side to side.
Mtb skills will help with picking a line and traction.
I am learning that picking a line while climbing on dirt and gravel transfers well to riding on pavement/tarmac. I panic much less at the appearance of a few little pebbles and keep my eyes/head up.
I find climbing really hard, as I make the gears too heavy, so this was really helpful 👍🏻 thx guys ☺️
Glad we could help! Gears are your friends, don't forget to use them 😊
@@gcnYou paid for them. Use all of them!
Having only three gears simplifies things for me. If it’s a slope of any length, just drop into the lowest gear and spin. After all, I’ve read about Paul Rozelle riding all four routes up Mont Ventoux in a single day using a fixed gear. For the hills and bridges of NYC, three speeds are enough!
Common sense doesn't tell you to change gear then 🤔
Very comfortable, easy to adjust, looks cool and costs relatively cheap
That was really helpful, Thanks👍
Another approach to getting restarted on a steep climb is a U-turn. Go down the hill as slow as you can just to have enough time to clip in and get in the right gear. Then turn around and go up
it's the psychology of the climb. I find when I look down immediately ahead of me (NOT up at the wall) I summit far easier. getting the gears right should make it no more difficult than a 3% gradient
I noticed a big difference going from an old MTB with a 3x6 to a gravel bike with a Shimano Sora 2x9, some reviews have called it overgeared (at least on my bike, Voodoo Nakisi) but I've found it ideal for me. There's a brief VERY steep climb on the cycle path route back to my house that I rarely used to run up, never mind cycle but the Nakisi can handle it and the hills on the road sections of NCR74 near me.
Gearing can be very subjective, awesome to hear that you have found a system that works for you! Spinning is winning 🙌
I’ve tried to make it second nature to at least shift to the smaller ring in advance of such climbs. Then the “fine tuning” by gradual shifts between sprockets becomes more workable.
3:04 About bodyposition, it is one thing you don't mentioned. The speed is probably 10-15 kph at least in the end of the position. Aero isn't the most critical. Your hands on top of the handlebar, straighten out the body to get maximal power. That position is as aero as a barm door but it dosen't matter.
Hi, You guys do a great job overall, with a lot of entertaining variation in content. Especially difficult to achieve considering the numerous demographic groups you cater for. One subject I'd be interested for you to cover, is for the more mature rider cycling into their 50s and onwards. I have recently read Joe Friel's book "Fast after 50" (wish I found this 10 years earlier), and found it a fascinating read. It does cover a wide spectrum of subjects, not just racing but he does put forward really interesting points regarding reducing the natural decline in muscle-mass and Vo2. And how best to slow this natural decline for as long as possible. I do feel this would certainly appeal to the older riders in your community, especially those who come to cycling a bit later on in life. Would be interesting to see you do a piece on this subject and as I'm just looking out for a sequel "Not too slow after 60" 😁
thanks
Sean
My local climb is up to 17% and I am happy to have my 30t gravelbike chainring 😂🚴🏻♂️
I survived a brutal climb with my 50-34 but I'm never going to do that again and bought a 46-30 crankset. 😂
17% !!! Ouch 😳
Haha yeah I too have a 17% bit (only about 100m of it) at the end of a climb near me. 1x to the rescue lol. Most of the time I don’t need that monstrous 50t dinner plate on the back really, but when the gradients are over 13/14% or so it’s a lifesaver!
There’s also a section on a gravel route near me that’s all over the place but seems to mostly be about 15% and then I really need the big’un. It’s a bit loose so the tyre will slip sometimes and if you come to an actual stop when it does trying to get going again in a higher gear is brutal…. Though trying to get going without the front wheel looping over your head is also a bit of a challenge in such a low gear on a steep slope lol!
Is 30 that big of difference vs 34/50?
Yes it is. I‘ve got 50/34 on my roadbike, 46/30 on my gravel bike. Both with 11-34 cassettes. The gravelbike climbs easier on the steepest gradients. I also recently had to climb a very steep hill with paniers front and back plus towing the 4yo girl on her bike. No way on 50/34.
The kids are spoiled now. In the bad old days, we all used a 42x21 low gear. If you couldn't get up the hill in that, you got dropped. ☹Hill climbing is really about fitness, not tips, but despite that, here's another tip from the old days: if you find yourself somewhat overgeared on a steep section, learn to pedal 360 degrees. In other words, take advantage of those cleats and pull up on the pedals. It can drastically increase your torque for short periods.
That would be a gear ratio of 2.00. My lowest gear ratio is 1.36 (34 x 25, similar to 36 x 30) and it's not easy for me to climb up a 7.4% gradient. Some who have a 34 x 34 granny gear already have to walk their bike up halfway up the climb.
Always good idea to have a casette that match the gradient so you always have that panic gear in the back of your mind. Where i live i can ride 100 km and only have climbed 25 vertical meters. And i rode rocacorba this summer alot of times. First time i rode more than 50 vertical meters lol. But that panic gear really saved me after 600 meters with 340 watts i didnt explode i blew UP🧨 really underestimated it thought how hard can it really be Ive tried climbing in zwift thousand’s of times. Just never tried ride a real mountain in 40 degrees. And absolutely no wind. Some sections with 13 % gradient man that casette saved my life that first day🥵🥴😂
Bet you all didn't know that trees grow sideways in Britain...
That heel rub damage on Conor’s chainstay 😮
And Manon's breaks..
@@lbadea1000 I think that’s a microphone audio clipping issue.
wanna climb with ease? all my bikes have cranks with srams old 3bolt spider system. my gravel bike uses a eagle 11-50t cassette and normally 46t AB oval ring. but it's the work of moments pop the dub crank off and swap that for a 32T or smaller ring and spin up anything hahah
Watching this from the Netherlands 🤷
Hi!
Always climb on a 52/42 and an 11-25 cassette.
(Do as i do, not as i say)
I ride 52/36 and 11-34.
34 x 32 should get you up just about any climb 34 x34 all climbs. Unless you really heavy. Climbing don't spin to fast on a long climb keep a constant cadence make sure you are not pushing hard with a pedal stroke and then easing up so you have a stop and start motion you need to keep the pedals flowing around smoothly so you have a constant forward smooth motion
Lots of steep climbs in Sheffield and the Peak District 😮
Scan Abdon Burf from the bottom and you will whimper :). I would call it a triple chainring job.
i went 10 gradients at muswell hill its quite a long climb the raods are paved and its quite big
Gears... Somehow I managed a 500m climb of 20% with a 52/36 chain ring 11-34 cassette. Thought I'd die. Really starting to wonder if I should downgrade some and get a 50/34 tooth chain ring.
That's my gearing right now. Bike came with a 11-28 cassette lol. Imagine my face when i went bikepacking and we did some passes in the italian alps. That 34 on the back is right on the edge to make it bearable but i still have to put out like 300W to have an acceptable cadence.
36-34 isn't significantly bigger than 34-34 though, maybe get a 48-32/48-31 instead
@@xGshikamaru it's not very common for road bikes to have such small chain rings and I'm pretty positive my rear derailleur will not officially take a bigger cassette.
how often are you in 52/11? 12? 13? I'd even say go 46/30 if the answer is "not very often/at all" as my answer was. I still never used the 46/11 even coming down Cairngorm Mountain yesterday.....
@@Bazza1968 pretty often. I'm a speed freak and have ridden motorcycles all my life. It's common for me to hit speeds of 60 to 70kph down hill. Once even saw 78 🙂
As a beginner I always approach in a super easy gear and spin my way up through a climb... I want to try getting out of the saddle but with my heart racing it seems impossible when actually climbing...
Moved into a new house and it is on a hill. There is no way for me to go out for even a few miles without getting 500-750' of elevation gain. A longer ride of 15+ miles? Easily can get up to 1500' in my area on the flattest course. Prior to this even my longer rides would barely see 500' of elevation gain! (Colorado, USA)
I'm very new to this type of elevation gain (at my already high standing elevation of 6200' above sea level) and it is really impacting my cycling! I want to go out more, but I am wrecked after every session and can no longer go on lunch rides or morning rides before work unless it's on the trainer because I am wrecked.
I am realizing now that I may need to invest in some new equipment/setup to ease this transition until I can build up for this elevation to be normal for me. If anyone else has experienced a sudden change like this any you have any tips, I would love to hear them. Thanks!
Living in the Scottish Highlands I'm only at 1000ft ASL but my advice would be (FWIW)- gear down significantly- crankset preferably to maintain closer ratios at the back.... I looked at a chart and at my elevation it's 20.1% oxygen (20.9% is sea level)...you're looking at just 16% approximately.... life will be hard on the bike until you adjust to your altitude.... if you're running relatively high gearing for flatter conditions (say 52 or 50 by 25 or 28) it'll be a nightmare pushing hills at altitude!!! Me- I'd go 46/30 by 11/34
@@Bazza1968 Thank you so much for the advice!
Do climbs on a daily basis about 400m of climbing for a short ride, up to 1850m of climbing on longer rides. Average gradient on the 400m climbs are about 8% but with harder sections at 12-16%. Use a 50/34 chainring and a 28/11 cassette. Best tips I can give is, dont stop, and never use your lightest gear execpt for the really steep parts or at the very end of the climb
That's a horrible tip. The smaller gears should be used quite often. Saves you a lot of energy.
@@OCRHPZA for longer rides, yes it's a bad idea... But I said "short". My short rides are exactly that, short. Roughly 8 mins of decent and 23 mins of climbing (don't have much time for longer rides). Since it's a short ride, I try to go as hard as I can on the climb, since 23mins of hard climbing isn't that long. It comes down to pacing once you know the climb... I just say, try to not be on your last gear until you really need it, it's also a huge boost mentally when you have been going hard for 5-10 mins, and drop into the easiest gear for a minute, and then go at it hard again... But everyone is different, just saying what's helped me climb the local climbs faster
hi all i have a road bike and in the wheel it write 110psi pressure but i live in U.A.E dubai and as u know its very hot city so do u think if i kake it 110psi with this hot inflate more and damage? and wt best psi i can do for that case?
Sometimes life makes you feel like a driver behind GCN hosts shooting a video.
I was climbing a 20% gradient with 30t in the front and 42 in the back. While I can still climb, I fell a few times cause my rear tire keep slipping (I was riding on dry tarmac so it's not a slippery road). Any idea why?
Mano looked like she was going to pass-out. LOL 😆
Looks like Draycott Steep to me 😮😂😂
this presenter pair is the best ever !
Always a fun day shooting with these two 🙌 With all these climbs we think we should set these two an epic climbing challenge!
@@gcn would be nice to have more track velodrome cycling and you Manon experience ...
Numero uno tip: Do not spend thousands of dollars to buy an aero yet heavy road bike. This will force manufacturers to put their aero bikes on a diet to be worthy of the high price tag.
Ah yes because 800g makes such a huge difference
My aero bike (8kg) weighs a lot less than my winter bike (11kg) I know which one I prefer to ride up climbs.
@@matt_acton-varian There are a few aero bikes now that weigh less than that. There is even an aero bike just weighing 7 kilos (without pedals) which means it can be done.
@@jestag2 I know there are, but I built my bike up with secondhand parts (frameset ncluded) for a little over £1000. If I were to replace my winter/commuter bike as like for like as possible (Alloy frame full carbon forks, Tiagra 4700, but switching to disc brakes) but also needing to buy mudguard and a rack as my current ones don't fit, I would have to spend the same.
On my front gear the gears won't shift down what do you recommend?
Look for the GCN videos on setting up your gears.
Any type of bike recommend for going up the hil?
Spinning up hills rules!!!
Don’t assume it’s all in the gearing, a heavy bike with very low gears will still be harder to climb with than a light bike with relatively high gearing. Gravity is a cruel mistress
sounds pretty wrong
Can I ask a question How do you all use clipless pedals on steep hill climbing if you get tried or have to stop quickly because of road hazard without falling down because you can't get foot out of pedal quickly enough to stabilize yourself.Because I have tried to do that and have almost killed myself doing so.
Great question! It can be hard work and takes lots of practice. We would suggest holding yourself near a wall to help practice clipping in and out. Be sure to get the correct cleats, this can help make clipping in and out better! 👉 ruclips.net/video/H6h30OqTyTg/видео.html
I climbed Bwlch y Groes (three ways) and Stwlan Dam last week. Thank heavens for 30 - 32 gearing. I prefer to climb seated because I can't stand for 2km; so why bother?
Why does the climbing footage look flat?
Because the camera is on the road, so at the same level and angle as the riders.
Maybe we need GCN to start a campaign to destigmatise the 3x?
Best tip I've found that really helps is that is to go slow as possible at the beginning of a steep climb .
I nearly always catch up and even overtake those who bomb off at the beginning.
I love climbing videos
Cuba??
For whatever reason, climbing is always easier when I'm in the drops. Also, squats, a lot of squats, to build the muscles.
Yes to squats 🙌 Off the bike exercise is great 👉 ruclips.net/video/beebHE10HlM/видео.html
120KG and 15% gradient how many watts ?
Depends on how fast you wanna be
@@Der_Richiee shall we say 12 kmph , no wind :)
@@jonfairway8235 at 12 km/h 600 W, if 120 kg is the total weight (incl. bike). Almost impossible with that weight for long (5 W/kg)
@@jonfairway8235 according to omnicalculator you need 640 watts / 5.4 WpKG.
what happened to di2 gear cable? just left it hanging there?
Yes it's tough but I love hard climbs,take it easy and gradually tackle the hard ones when you are fitter and stronger
This might sound odd but I find it much better in my case to push off on my less dominant leg,
Wolf Tooth Road Link with a bigger cassette.😅
Climbing is about one thing: weight. Top TDF climbers are 60kg. VO2 + lowest possible weight = climb anything anywhere. Clips and cleats are a very bad idea for anyone struggling to climb. Use flats!
funny we have a climb called the wall here on kauai 🚴🏽♂
I try to get off my saddle but by the time I feel like I need it, I'm already gassed. Legs are jelly, ~15 pedal strokes in and I need to sit back down.
Where is this UK road?
i live in the area where 10-15% steep is considered as normal and climb can reached up to 25-30%, at this gradient no matter what gearing you have on road bike, most probably u gonna suffer like hell.
Visiting an area like that right now. Happy I put on an 11-34 cassette before the trip!
Get yourself a low gear around 25 gear inches, or less, if you dont wanna suffer like hell.
@@henrybikeman currently running 50/36 with 11/30 roadbike and im happy with setup. able to tackle most of the terrain except endless 20%...
Awesome
i weigh about 300 pounds, i am unsure how much ease it will get but i am slowly getting used to being in my highest gear while riding.
Could used this before the Tourmalet 😂😅😢❤
Hahahah sorry.. bad timing... you'll just have to do it again
Lowest gear I have, expect to go slow, put on some music blasting from my speakers. Just admit that fast isn't happening, and wait for the reward at the top: ZOOMIES on the way down! WHEEEEE.
How do you prevent it from clip in the first revolution :) not pushing that hard?
BMX pedals are the bomb...
Try to put majority of your weight on the front wheel, that works for me
I am positive about climbs. I'm positive I hate them with every fibre of my body. The only reason I can see for climbs ever existing is for the fun of riding back down. I just wish I lived somewhere closer to uplifts.
Uplifts for road bikers! I'm in.
Curious, Connor, what does an Alley have to do with climbing steep hills? To say it three times, it must be really important 😉
I've cycled on a MTB with heavy gears. So, climbing is fun for me 🤘
Bit of cross training makes for a strong rider 💪
funny how on the steep sections the trees grow sloping down
Can you please use numbers instead low gears
Great advice for the average man. I am an average man
I am shocked you didn't include coming into the hill with momentum (mostly because you have several times before haha)
Momentum can be super important but not always possible when approaching long climbs from flats.
I like climbing...... Into my bed after eating a juicy bacon cheese burger 😅
Someone is touching their frame with the shoe? :P 0:43
at over 6w/kg, that's how!