@ sugar dissolves easier in water than salt, and is less corrosive. The majority comes out dry after drilling a few holes in the epoxy and rotating the block. The rest comes out with a water flush - hook a hose up and let it flush for 30-60 mins. I also did a hot water flush (for a different purpose) so I’m 100% confident there was no sugar left.
Incase it wasn't mentioned before Honda guys before the k series era have been doing this for years. I'm glad to see it transferring over to the N54 community.
@@mr.he-rock-ohh2355 correct, the Honda pioneers of epoxy closed decks deserve more credit. It was their long term success that gave me the confidence to try it, even though I had serious doubts.
@I did point out in the video that it was open deck as a cost saving measure for manufacturing but pouring US$150 of epoxy into it to overcome the potential shortcoming doesn’t seem like a bad deal. What is the definition of a “racing block”. If my N54 engine is Australia’s fastest RWD BMW does that not count as a racing block? The N54 was used in a BMW M car (the 1M), a car often rated as one of the most desirable circuit track cars BMW ever built, even without closing the deck. You’d also have a higher chance of finding an N54 engine on a racetrack than any Audi engine, even the DAZA. The open deck Honda K series block is the most popular choice for >1,000hp 4 cylinder builds, but it doesn’t count as a racing block? At least we can agree there’s some very fast poor men that must be fairly smart.
@DarkePeak by racing block I mean a billet block. They still have cooling above and below the head but they're seperate feed and return lines. Filling with epoxy is just a cheap way of achieving the same thing but it's still not a fully reliable closed deck because of the material used and the fact it still allows coolant to flow into the head from the cooling jacket through the holes you drilled in the epoxy. A proper closed deck doesn't feed the head with coolant. By doing what you did you've made the top of the cylinder sleeves slightly stronger but at the cost of overheating and warping the head... See how it goes.
@@R6AAO a billet block engine would cost more than the whole car and defeat the purpose of a ‘9 second drag and drive budget’ build. BIllet is better suited to a ‘6 second trailer queen that costs more than a house’ build. Billet blocks are also generally not suitable for regular street driving. But why stop at billet blocks, let’s call everything except F1 engines a ‘poor man’s block’
If you need a custom kit made with 2 segments for the EJ, we are working on developing that right now. Message me from our website and I can get you set up. :)
I love my 335i N54, but i have some strange problem where my voltage is always too high with 15v and kills my batteries very fast... Sin wave on my lambda, and a wobble on exhaust vanos and fuel pressure. When starting the rpm suddenly drop after 5 seconds to 500 and recover. Changed everything from injectors to pump to sensors to solenoids and noone can find the problem. Not even BMW themselfes. Didnt find any problems with ground. It just sucks... Damn bus system with those E90s. This one here is something else, amazing work, alot of work ^^
Hey Mark, thanks for the great feedback! 2 things to note or spark conversation about. 1: You mentioned increased clamping force with aluminum inserts due to the increase in surface area. I would argue that this actually has the opposite effect if anything, as the increased surface area would distribute the clamping forces on non-sealing sections of the gasket. Think of laying on a bed of nails for example. This is also why people o-ring their engine blocks, and only apply the o-rings around the cyl sealing surfaces. 2: In the instruction video I had made, I had been experimenting with filling the bottom of the block as well as the top. It looked in the video as if I had spilled some, but that wasn't the case. Putting a rag in there is a good suggestion though, although tape should be sufficient. Again, thank you for your commitment and contribution to our community.
@@GarianWraps in response to your points: 1. it’s a documented engineering benefit - link below. Your nail bed analogy is not comparable because the added width of the head gasket being clamped is also part of what increases its integrity. Cutting o ring grooves for use with a MLS head gasket is a last ditch resort that probably fails more times than not. At the end of the day, as I mentioned in the video, I don’t perceive there is any benefit because we don’t have a common inherent problem to begin with. Also, the common CSS inserts are concave all the way around so they don’t have any extra clamping, and nobody is reporting head gasket issues. I didn’t mention it in the video but I have a suspicion that the thermal stability of epoxy means it shouldn’t distort the tops of the cylinders like aluminium might as it heats up and expands. If the aluminium insert expands with heat where is the force going? Some people like John Snyder reported cracked cylinders even with aluminium inserts, maybe they are the cause? www.enginebuildermag.com/2021/09/closed-deck-block-conversions-a-horsepower-love-story/ 2. Thanks for pointing out why the epoxy was seeping out, maybe I didn’t need to jam the rags tightly in the coolant inlet port.
What do you think about or have you experimented with filling a slice roughly in the middle of the bore? I have another aluminium engine that's known to both twist and distort a lot as well as balloon and crack bores at high power but it's already closed deck. I'm thinking about pouring a slice in at the bottom to add rigidity as well as another slice in the middle of the bore roughly where they usually crack to support and reinforce the bore, would be done through the coolant passages at the top, will be a bitch to do but as long as it works and doesn't cause cooling issues it'll be worth it. What do you think, can a slice be poored and then stay there around half way down the bore?
@ I haven’t done what you described but I expect it would be possible using some sort of high density foam to create a formwork to isolate the area you want to support, then pull it out afterwards. The surface should be rough, but not loose, and cast a section wide enough that it can’t easily move out of place. Also don’t make it too deep or it will act like a barrier to coolant flow down the gallery. Good luck
@@DarkePeak Don't think it has to be that complicated. I'm thinking about the slice being the full width and going all the way around the the coolant passage and bore not just a slight ring around the bore - so fill the bore to block gap down in the coolant passage. It'd just be like "close decking" a block with epoxy except half way down a bore. The way I'm thinking is - Poor slice of epoxy at bottom, wait to fully cure Poor sugar ontop of cured epoxy up the the height you want the "reinforcement ring" at Poor another slice of epoxy over the top of the sugar, wait to fully cure Drill the second slice for coolant flow and flush out all the sugar Done
@@DarkePeak The thermal expansion discussion is a problem I have heard about regarding different platforms as well. As we know, cast and billet aluminum have different thermal expansion rates. There's a guy in the VQ department which I spoke to who has cracked 3 blocks which he thinks was caused by the CSS insert. Not an opinion from an engineer by any means, but something that has been observed and reported.
Nice build. Had the same alternator issue now I replace the o rings every 50k to prevent it. Going aluminum water pump and aluminium valve cover next. Would be amazing to keep in contact if I have any n54 issues
You're a great teacher Mark. Really like your approach to this build & keen to know where you plan to go from here? Also curious if you still have any time to fly drones these days?
@@David__ thanks David, the next stage with this build is to do something semi-unique with the intercooler setup - try and get the intake temps below 10C regardless of ambient temperature. I’d like to fly drones but I don’t have the passion to build and repair drones any more. I think I’d also be disappointed when I realise my skills have evaporated. The common link is the buzz from acceleration and speed. Fast street motorbikes got replaced by drones due to risk of losing licence, then fast track cars replaced drones.
Aren’t blown head gaskets also caused by insufficient clamping force based on cylinder pressures? I’ve dealt with the same issue and fix in the Porsche world (944 turbo’s running high boost with their open decks). I like this fix better than stabilizing cylinder position with cement block fill, as the cement is only installed at the bottom of the volume for obvious reasons. I would call this a “liquid deck plate”. Great install and great info.
@@northernaqs definitely, blown head gasket due to head lifting is not uncommon with higher horsepower builds, especially the N54 motor if you don’t address the weakness of the factory head bolts. In this video I discuss blown head gasket as it relates to closing the deck (overheating and cylinder movement). I’ve got two videos on the process to improve head clamping with N54. Here’s part 1 if you’re interested… ruclips.net/video/NHy07sjwnCg/видео.htmlsi=elE5glYlo-YHWUMX
Have you drilled a small hole in your thermostat I have seen a couple people do it for more cooling and also what temperature settings are you turning the fans on in the tune
No, I haven’t drilled a hole in it. A hole is going to make it take longer to get up to operating temp (not a good thing) and it’s not going to make the cooling any better when it’s hot. I have the stock settings for the fan and pump. I have MHD and until recently they had an option to activate “Max Cooling Mode” in the Live menu of N54 Flasher app - I used this feature after a run to help get some heat out of the engine/turbos before I shut it down, not because it was overheating. But they took that feature away when they forced us to use the regular Flasher app.
@@djmystery7235 the “metal” inserts are aluminium, not steel. Secondly the epoxy has proven to be reliable and long lasting, it’s been used to closed the deck in other engines, like >1,000hp Honda 4 cylinders, for many years without issue. I had my doubts but I did testing to alleviate those concerns - I made a video on that topic when I was building the engine.
@DarkePeak that would definitely help end the myth. Practically nobody gets to experience pre-ignition, while practically everyone has experienced detonation plenty of times.
@@paulsimpson8990 good point….the coolant temp is definitely lower than the cylinder head temp but it wouldn’t be lower than the block temp, even on the cylinder side. The majority of the heat transferred to the coolant comes from the cylinder head, where surface temps in contact with coolant should never exceed 128C under normal operating conditions (because that’s the temp a perfect 50/50 coolant mix will boil at 15psi). If it boils then cavitation occurs and the bubbles erode the aluminium. So the question is what safety margin will be allowed by the BMW engineers, and I don’t think they would have allowed any surface in contact with coolant to exceed 120C, so block temperatures are most likely below 120C. Then, assess the 3D temps on the epoxy: on average, the epoxy has a rectangle profile: 17mm deep x 9mm wide. Of the 4 sides: 1. Inside 17mm in contact with the cylinder wall, this will be the hottest but I would argue it’s less than 120C based on the point above about boiling point of coolant. 2. Outside 17mm side in contact with the outside block wall, this is no more than 100C 3. Top 9mm side in contact with coolant only, this is no more than 100C 4. Bottom 9mm side in contact with coolant only, this is no more than 100C
I wonder if aluminium or other material could be mixed in with the epoxy to improve thermal conductivity (and if that would actually be worth doing) ... something for the engineering students!
@@simontist that question is fairly common but I’ve not seen any data/results that suggest it would be better or worse. Some people do successfully use a Devcon aluminium epoxy to close their deck. I’d be a bit worried about the mismatched thermal expansion of epoxy and aluminium, possibly weakening the epoxy. Also I think extra expansion could lead to unwanted forces pushing against the outside of the bore liners. Considering it is a relatively thin layer (17mm) that I applied the heat doesn’t have much extra distance to travel to reach the coolant so it’s probably not an issue worth addressing.
@DarkePeak there are apparently thermally conductive epoxy based products out there but yeah maybe they don't have the same mechanical properties. If it works don't fix it! Maybe if it was a circuit racing build where thermals are more of an issue.
The bulk compressive modulus of a properly chosen expoxy is actually pretty good. CF renforcement is primarrily going to improve the tensile properties, and getting a homogenious result can be difficult. The main issue is ensure the expoxy does not "buldge" too much, ie it's thickess to length ratio is sufficient, if this is case, the expoxy under compression is going to be pretty good when you look at the numbers
Theres an asian company doing a billet wedge in between the timing chain cover and the first cylinder to keep that first cylinder from ballooning forward towards the harmonic balancer. Thick peice of billet
37:00 I dedicated a whole chapter to that concept. It’s a waste of time for two reasons: 1. Find someone who blew that section out other than Ghassan when he hydrolocked the engine, 2. The front timing cover is thin and unsupported, so it isn’t going to withstand any force that the cylinder wall can’t already handle.
@@rickyvwt ok, with or without the hammer drill function? With the hammer drill I’d be concerned about micro fractures in it and without the hammer drill I’d be concerned about the cutting tip overheating.
Is this was me, i'd do two significant changes: 1) ditch the 'lecy water pump and fit a engine driven one. The std pump is pretty performance limited and designed entirely for emissions / fuel economy, none of which you care about. Mdot.CP.deltaT is critical as is the effective reynolds number in driving total heat transfer and reducing hot spots (localised eddy currents and "backwaters" in the loop. You could easily double water pumping power and only "loose" 1 extra kW off the crank, which is a good trade off if you already have 400kW 2) Use core plugs and/or specific machining / welding to add a proper external water inlet and outlet manifolds to the block and heads. Go look at any serious motorsports engine, they control block and head cooling seperately! The limiting factor for detonation is cylinder head metal temps not block temps, so you really want a LOT more water going through your head than your block. A std road engine simply passes everything through in series, and of course the "far side" of the block gets the hot water from the head..... not great!
Using sugar/salt to set the level of the epoxy is such a fantastically simple way to solve the problem. Excellent.
@@woopdeedoodaa yes, it is amazingly simple. But I didn’t think of it and it’s not a new idea, I think Fred Flinstone was the first to do it
A simple way to "dissolve" the problem..
Sugar should be avoided, if any is left over it will start gumming up
@ sugar dissolves easier in water than salt, and is less corrosive. The majority comes out dry after drilling a few holes in the epoxy and rotating the block. The rest comes out with a water flush - hook a hose up and let it flush for 30-60 mins. I also did a hot water flush (for a different purpose) so I’m 100% confident there was no sugar left.
Incase it wasn't mentioned before Honda guys before the k series era have been doing this for years. I'm glad to see it transferring over to the N54 community.
@@mr.he-rock-ohh2355 correct, the Honda pioneers of epoxy closed decks deserve more credit. It was their long term success that gave me the confidence to try it, even though I had serious doubts.
I believe it's the poor man's block because racing blocks have been closed deck for god knows how long..
@I did point out in the video that it was open deck as a cost saving measure for manufacturing but pouring US$150 of epoxy into it to overcome the potential shortcoming doesn’t seem like a bad deal. What is the definition of a “racing block”. If my N54 engine is Australia’s fastest RWD BMW does that not count as a racing block? The N54 was used in a BMW M car (the 1M), a car often rated as one of the most desirable circuit track cars BMW ever built, even without closing the deck. You’d also have a higher chance of finding an N54 engine on a racetrack than any Audi engine, even the DAZA. The open deck Honda K series block is the most popular choice for >1,000hp 4 cylinder builds, but it doesn’t count as a racing block? At least we can agree there’s some very fast poor men that must be fairly smart.
@DarkePeak by racing block I mean a billet block. They still have cooling above and below the head but they're seperate feed and return lines. Filling with epoxy is just a cheap way of achieving the same thing but it's still not a fully reliable closed deck because of the material used and the fact it still allows coolant to flow into the head from the cooling jacket through the holes you drilled in the epoxy. A proper closed deck doesn't feed the head with coolant. By doing what you did you've made the top of the cylinder sleeves slightly stronger but at the cost of overheating and warping the head... See how it goes.
@@R6AAO a billet block engine would cost more than the whole car and defeat the purpose of a ‘9 second drag and drive budget’ build. BIllet is better suited to a ‘6 second trailer queen that costs more than a house’ build. Billet blocks are also generally not suitable for regular street driving. But why stop at billet blocks, let’s call everything except F1 engines a ‘poor man’s block’
Will do the same to my turbo EJ25 within next months! Great vid!
If you need a custom kit made with 2 segments for the EJ, we are working on developing that right now. Message me from our website and I can get you set up. :)
@@GarianWraps thanks bud, I am on budged, so for this one it will be devcon
lol waste
@@GarianWraps def looking foward to this. was gonna try out block pinning but I'm very curious on epoxy
I love my 335i N54, but i have some strange problem where my voltage is always too high with 15v and kills my batteries very fast... Sin wave on my lambda, and a wobble on exhaust vanos and fuel pressure. When starting the rpm suddenly drop after 5 seconds to 500 and recover. Changed everything from injectors to pump to sensors to solenoids and noone can find the problem. Not even BMW themselfes. Didnt find any problems with ground. It just sucks... Damn bus system with those E90s. This one here is something else, amazing work, alot of work ^^
Hey Mark, thanks for the great feedback! 2 things to note or spark conversation about.
1: You mentioned increased clamping force with aluminum inserts due to the increase in surface area. I would argue that this actually has the opposite effect if anything, as the increased surface area would distribute the clamping forces on non-sealing sections of the gasket. Think of laying on a bed of nails for example. This is also why people o-ring their engine blocks, and only apply the o-rings around the cyl sealing surfaces.
2: In the instruction video I had made, I had been experimenting with filling the bottom of the block as well as the top. It looked in the video as if I had spilled some, but that wasn't the case. Putting a rag in there is a good suggestion though, although tape should be sufficient.
Again, thank you for your commitment and contribution to our community.
@@GarianWraps in response to your points:
1. it’s a documented engineering benefit - link below. Your nail bed analogy is not comparable because the added width of the head gasket being clamped is also part of what increases its integrity. Cutting o ring grooves for use with a MLS head gasket is a last ditch resort that probably fails more times than not. At the end of the day, as I mentioned in the video, I don’t perceive there is any benefit because we don’t have a common inherent problem to begin with. Also, the common CSS inserts are concave all the way around so they don’t have any extra clamping, and nobody is reporting head gasket issues. I didn’t mention it in the video but I have a suspicion that the thermal stability of epoxy means it shouldn’t distort the tops of the cylinders like aluminium might as it heats up and expands. If the aluminium insert expands with heat where is the force going? Some people like John Snyder reported cracked cylinders even with aluminium inserts, maybe they are the cause? www.enginebuildermag.com/2021/09/closed-deck-block-conversions-a-horsepower-love-story/
2. Thanks for pointing out why the epoxy was seeping out, maybe I didn’t need to jam the rags tightly in the coolant inlet port.
What do you think about or have you experimented with filling a slice roughly in the middle of the bore?
I have another aluminium engine that's known to both twist and distort a lot as well as balloon and crack bores at high power but it's already closed deck.
I'm thinking about pouring a slice in at the bottom to add rigidity as well as another slice in the middle of the bore roughly where they usually crack to support and reinforce the bore, would be done through the coolant passages at the top, will be a bitch to do but as long as it works and doesn't cause cooling issues it'll be worth it. What do you think, can a slice be poored and then stay there around half way down the bore?
@ I haven’t done what you described but I expect it would be possible using some sort of high density foam to create a formwork to isolate the area you want to support, then pull it out afterwards. The surface should be rough, but not loose, and cast a section wide enough that it can’t easily move out of place. Also don’t make it too deep or it will act like a barrier to coolant flow down the gallery. Good luck
@@DarkePeak Don't think it has to be that complicated. I'm thinking about the slice being the full width and going all the way around the the coolant passage and bore not just a slight ring around the bore - so fill the bore to block gap down in the coolant passage. It'd just be like "close decking" a block with epoxy except half way down a bore.
The way I'm thinking is -
Poor slice of epoxy at bottom, wait to fully cure
Poor sugar ontop of cured epoxy up the the height you want the "reinforcement ring" at
Poor another slice of epoxy over the top of the sugar, wait to fully cure
Drill the second slice for coolant flow and flush out all the sugar
Done
@@DarkePeak The thermal expansion discussion is a problem I have heard about regarding different platforms as well. As we know, cast and billet aluminum have different thermal expansion rates. There's a guy in the VQ department which I spoke to who has cracked 3 blocks which he thinks was caused by the CSS insert. Not an opinion from an engineer by any means, but something that has been observed and reported.
Nice build. Had the same alternator issue now I replace the o rings every 50k to prevent it. Going aluminum water pump and aluminium valve cover next. Would be amazing to keep in contact if I have any n54 issues
Awesome and very informing video!
@@Ente-tainment cheers
Awesome man! It'd be cool if someone could get an accurate 3D model of the block, head and gasket and do some CFD on it!!
I'M impressed man...thanks for contributing & GOOD LUCK 💕💕
waiting for next episodes 👍
@@lou007 thank you
Excellent
You're a great teacher Mark.
Really like your approach to this build & keen to know where you plan to go from here?
Also curious if you still have any time to fly drones these days?
@@David__ thanks David, the next stage with this build is to do something semi-unique with the intercooler setup - try and get the intake temps below 10C regardless of ambient temperature. I’d like to fly drones but I don’t have the passion to build and repair drones any more. I think I’d also be disappointed when I realise my skills have evaporated. The common link is the buzz from acceleration and speed. Fast street motorbikes got replaced by drones due to risk of losing licence, then fast track cars replaced drones.
Aren’t blown head gaskets also caused by insufficient clamping force based on cylinder pressures? I’ve dealt with the same issue and fix in the Porsche world (944 turbo’s running high boost with their open decks). I like this fix better than stabilizing cylinder position with cement block fill, as the cement is only installed at the bottom of the volume for obvious reasons. I would call this a “liquid deck plate”. Great install and great info.
@@northernaqs definitely, blown head gasket due to head lifting is not uncommon with higher horsepower builds, especially the N54 motor if you don’t address the weakness of the factory head bolts. In this video I discuss blown head gasket as it relates to closing the deck (overheating and cylinder movement). I’ve got two videos on the process to improve head clamping with N54. Here’s part 1 if you’re interested…
ruclips.net/video/NHy07sjwnCg/видео.htmlsi=elE5glYlo-YHWUMX
*Curious to see what type of 'liquid cutting' effect you get.*
Have you drilled a small hole in your thermostat I have seen a couple people do it for more cooling and also what temperature settings are you turning the fans on in the tune
No, I haven’t drilled a hole in it. A hole is going to make it take longer to get up to operating temp (not a good thing) and it’s not going to make the cooling any better when it’s hot. I have the stock settings for the fan and pump.
I have MHD and until recently they had an option to activate “Max Cooling Mode” in the Live menu of N54 Flasher app - I used this feature after a run to help get some heat out of the engine/turbos before I shut it down, not because it was overheating. But they took that feature away when they forced us to use the regular Flasher app.
*20:30** You did all that work and left flash, everywhere?*
Where did you get the epoxy from ?
@@dsrc53 Garian Wraps
www.garianwraps.com/product-page/n54-aluminum-block-epoxy-kit
Why epoxy? I have seen people press machined metal sleeves into the coolant passage why didn’t you use that?
@@djmystery7235 because machined inserts cost >10x more than epoxy for the same result.
@ how can you be so sure it’s the same result? Steel has to be far stronger than epoxy and resistant to degrading or cracking
@@djmystery7235 the “metal” inserts are aluminium, not steel. Secondly the epoxy has proven to be reliable and long lasting, it’s been used to closed the deck in other engines, like >1,000hp Honda 4 cylinders, for many years without issue. I had my doubts but I did testing to alleviate those concerns - I made a video on that topic when I was building the engine.
@@djmystery7235the V8 guys have been doing this for decades. It's nothing new, tried and proven over and over.
5:12 pre-ignition is not detonation. That's why it's called pre-ignition.
@@zacharymorris9917 you’re right, I should have used the general description “abnormal combustion” as the umbrella term
@DarkePeak that would definitely help end the myth. Practically nobody gets to experience pre-ignition, while practically everyone has experienced detonation plenty of times.
9.50?! God damn!!!
The heat deflection temperature of epoxy is about 120 DegC. I fail to see how it would do anything.
@@paulsimpson8990 the cooling system runs at 96-104C, well below 120C
@ the coolant temperature is lower than the metal it is in contact with. Cht are much higher. At these temps epoxy has lost its structural integrity.
My background is an engineer in carbon epoxy composites
Also owned an n54
@@paulsimpson8990 good point….the coolant temp is definitely lower than the cylinder head temp but it wouldn’t be lower than the block temp, even on the cylinder side. The majority of the heat transferred to the coolant comes from the cylinder head, where surface temps in contact with coolant should never exceed 128C under normal operating conditions (because that’s the temp a perfect 50/50 coolant mix will boil at 15psi). If it boils then cavitation occurs and the bubbles erode the aluminium. So the question is what safety margin will be allowed by the BMW engineers, and I don’t think they would have allowed any surface in contact with coolant to exceed 120C, so block temperatures are most likely below 120C. Then, assess the 3D temps on the epoxy: on average, the epoxy has a rectangle profile: 17mm deep x 9mm wide. Of the 4 sides:
1. Inside 17mm in contact with the cylinder wall, this will be the hottest but I would argue it’s less than 120C based on the point above about boiling point of coolant.
2. Outside 17mm side in contact with the outside block wall, this is no more than 100C
3. Top 9mm side in contact with coolant only, this is no more than 100C
4. Bottom 9mm side in contact with coolant only, this is no more than 100C
I wonder if aluminium or other material could be mixed in with the epoxy to improve thermal conductivity (and if that would actually be worth doing) ... something for the engineering students!
@@simontist that question is fairly common but I’ve not seen any data/results that suggest it would be better or worse. Some people do successfully use a Devcon aluminium epoxy to close their deck. I’d be a bit worried about the mismatched thermal expansion of epoxy and aluminium, possibly weakening the epoxy. Also I think extra expansion could lead to unwanted forces pushing against the outside of the bore liners. Considering it is a relatively thin layer (17mm) that I applied the heat doesn’t have much extra distance to travel to reach the coolant so it’s probably not an issue worth addressing.
@DarkePeak there are apparently thermally conductive epoxy based products out there but yeah maybe they don't have the same mechanical properties. If it works don't fix it! Maybe if it was a circuit racing build where thermals are more of an issue.
What if you sprinkled carbon fiber in there?
The bulk compressive modulus of a properly chosen expoxy is actually pretty good. CF renforcement is primarrily going to improve the tensile properties, and getting a homogenious result can be difficult. The main issue is ensure the expoxy does not "buldge" too much, ie it's thickess to length ratio is sufficient, if this is case, the expoxy under compression is going to be pretty good when you look at the numbers
@@maxtorque2277 Appreciate the info!
Theres an asian company doing a billet wedge in between the timing chain cover and the first cylinder to keep that first cylinder from ballooning forward towards the harmonic balancer. Thick peice of billet
I’m currently selling that Cyl 1 brace out in Canada aswell.
37:00 I dedicated a whole chapter to that concept. It’s a waste of time for two reasons:
1. Find someone who blew that section out other than Ghassan when he hydrolocked the engine,
2. The front timing cover is thin and unsupported, so it isn’t going to withstand any force that the cylinder wall can’t already handle.
@DarkePeak can I email you some engine build pictures and you give me your opinion? N55 f10 awd here
@patrickklos9704 you have a page I can see pictures
@@DarkePeak You make 2 great points here.
Masonry drill bits work wonders.
@@rickyvwt ok, with or without the hammer drill function? With the hammer drill I’d be concerned about micro fractures in it and without the hammer drill I’d be concerned about the cutting tip overheating.
@DarkePeak no hammer function needed. The trick is that masonry bits have carbide tips, they are great for aluminum and other type of materials
@ thanks, I’ll have to find the leftover pieces of epoxy and try drilling it with masonry bits (and tungsten carbide bits)
Is this was me, i'd do two significant changes:
1) ditch the 'lecy water pump and fit a engine driven one. The std pump is pretty performance limited and designed entirely for emissions / fuel economy, none of which you care about. Mdot.CP.deltaT is critical as is the effective reynolds number in driving total heat transfer and reducing hot spots (localised eddy currents and "backwaters" in the loop. You could easily double water pumping power and only "loose" 1 extra kW off the crank, which is a good trade off if you already have 400kW
2) Use core plugs and/or specific machining / welding to add a proper external water inlet and outlet manifolds to the block and heads. Go look at any serious motorsports engine, they control block and head cooling seperately! The limiting factor for detonation is cylinder head metal temps not block temps, so you really want a LOT more water going through your head than your block. A std road engine simply passes everything through in series, and of course the "far side" of the block gets the hot water from the head..... not great!
watch the ecoboost boys start doing this now... Everyone always copying what the honda boys been doing for decades...
May be a news to you but...all cars use the head gasket.....