Anyone who is watching this video and thinks there’s an easy way to do it, DON’T TRY IT. That includes those hand pump, one way in, one way out kits. DO IT EXACTLY the way my MAN says to do it. It is a process but it works. I would have saved myself half the time it took to complete it if I had followed his instructions the first time. BRAVO HOME-ZILLA!
Great video. Thank you for demonstrating clearly how to do this. I just got my bike out for the spring and got it on the road. I always do a short low-speed cruise to start the season off just to make sure everything is in good working order. I noticed right off that I had no brakes when using the foot brake. The hand brake works fine. I am hoping that this will save me a trip (and a few bucks) to the shop. I had my brakes replaced a few years back but I don't know if they bled out the old fluid or not. Seems logical to give this a shot and get all new fluid in there at the same time. Update: Apparently they did not flush and change the fluid because it was very dark. Syringed out the front master to save a lot of pumping, filled with new fluid, then pumped it through the system as your video showed. Moving to the rear master, it was almost empty; the rubber boot was pulled all the way down inside. What little fluid that was there was just as dark as the front. Syringed out what was there and ended up removing the master to give it a good cleaning since it had "sludge" sitting in the bottom. Refilled with fresh fluid and pumped it through the system. Took my scooter on a short ride and I have rear brakes! For a grand total of 5 minutes watching your video and $4.59 for DOT4 fluid, my bike is back on the road. Sorry bike shop, you didn't get me for $600 this time!
@arices99 I know this is several years old, but I am having the same problem - hand brake works, back pedal not responding. Did bleeding the brakes fix the problem? Or did you have to replace the master cylinder?
@@preparedmindstrongspirit5724 Sorry for the late question - did this solve the issue with the back brake pedal? Or did you have to do additional work?
Great tutorial, i have the same bike, 2005 1800F. Absolute beast of a machine. Barn find with under 2k on the odometer. Very helpful tips and the specifics on the integrated front/rear system. 👌🏻
Good. I would also place a plastic garbage bag over the tank, and wrap a paper towel around the fluid reservoir and handlebar, held with a rubber band. I use a wide tin can to capture the fluid, a narrow glass is very easily knocked over.
Great videos! Thanks. Bled the brakes and there's a huge difference in the system. Couldn't believe the gunk that came out in the old fluid! Is there also a video for bleeding the clutch?
thanks again! I will probably time this one wit the new front brake pads this spring....I will have to check and see if you have done a brake pad video for the VTX.
Rbl -- we do have VTX front and rear brake pad replacement videos live now if you want to check them out: FRONT BRAKE PADS: ruclips.net/video/nVQqrQ3uCfU/видео.html REAR BRAKE PADS: ruclips.net/video/OzVECJVcJOk/видео.html
Dumb question. I pulled all my pads at the same time the other day to see how much life I had on them. and like an idiot squeezed the rear brake pedal after I put the rear ones back but before I put the front ones back on. Now the center pistons that run off the rear braking on the front are pushed out. I have one caliper off but still connected, and even with the rear reservoir uncapped, I cant get the piston to slide back in, tried vice grips and a C clamp already. I need to bleed them anyways, think this will free the pistons back up when I crack the bleeders on them? i feel like they should already back off with the reservoir open. but I think I remember reading about a proportioning valve also being part of the system before.
Around 9:07, when you're bleeding the rear brake fluid from the front, as you pump some air comes out of the caliper. Why is that? Shouldn't there be no air in the system?
I was doing great on this until I started the back brake. Somehow air got in….the reservoir wasn’t empty and had plenty fluid. Not sure how air got in but my rear brake is now spongy. How do I get the air out from this point? Looking online but figured I’d ask here.
Hello. A big off topic, but I am trying to find directions or video on how to change out the throttle sleeve on a Honda VTX 1800. Do you have any such video or directoins?
There is another bleeder on the left side that goes to the anti dive unit. does that bleed with the stuff you just showed here or is it a separate job?
Hi John my question is off topic but its about the 2008 VTX 1800, Im 6'4" 350 and man Im all jamed up on the bike, The only tall guy seat I can find for it is the ultimate big boy seat which shoulde help, what I really want are forward pegs and I can find them for the touring model anywhere. I cant find them for any VTX model period, I noticed them on the bike in the video and thats what Im looking for...I would apperciate any suggestions on where to look or what adapter kits that would help with my problem. I grew up on pegs and I just got back into riding again and jumped on a good deal too fast before really feeling the bike out, I love the bike, its a sweet beast but its set up for 5'8" 170 Lb guys. I hate floor boards, they just dont feel right too me, not enough angle. Thanks Joey
I'm sorry if this is a little off topic but speaking of brakes, is it recommended to only use OEM brake pads? I've been looking cuz I have to replace mine and I see a lot of breaks online for this machine. Some say they are sintered Semi sintered and to be honest with you I have no idea what that means or how it impacts of performance. If you can chime in I greatly appreciate it thanks for your great videos!
Would it not be better to completely drain all the old fluid first, then add new brake fluid? Seems like you would be just mixing good and old. Bleeding air out is easy, just fill resivoir and leave bleed valve open until fluid comes out, then close valve and do a pressure bleed as you just did, then top off resivoir if new brakes are installed, otherwise do as you stated in your video. This would be better, correct?
John, great question. Either method works. We feel that the method we used in the video is a little easier to eliminate the possibility of leaving air in the line. The new fluid will push the old fluid out, so the minimal mixing of old and new isn't a big deal.
is it necessary to open and close the bleed valve since you are trying to bleed out all of the old fluid first? seems like it would be quicker if you pumped out the old fluid first, then open and close valve after you pour in the new fluid. you could still watch to make sure old fluid doesn't go below reservoir drain hole if you dont want air in system. what do you think?
Great question Mark! The method we used in this video is the manual way. with that said, the bleed valve must be closed in order to build pressure and push out the old/new fluid.
New to doing my own maintenance and need to bleed my brakes as front lever is bottoming out at my handle bars... My question is... Can I do this on the side stand or does my bike need to be upright?
Purchased a 1800 that had sat for a year. Test rode it and all seemed to be as it should. Half way home, I went to exit the freeway and put my foot on the rear brake and it went soft, no pads actuated. Talk about a sinking feeling!! Front brakes are working perfectly... thankfully!! Could this just be that the brake lines may have air in them and need to be bled? Or is there a larger issue?
Quick question, would it be possible call them like a turkey baster to get all the Bold bring it out first then add new brake fluid and ripped the process you're showing?
Turkey baster suck. Go to an animal feed store purchase large syringes, and the piece of tubing to the end and you can suck out the old fluid with precision, no drips. But do not take 100% out of the reservoir or you will get air in the lines. Also I feel the syringe sucks up any debris in the bottom of the reservoir that would normally get pushed through your lines to your calibers.
Hi I'm trying to take the rear wheel on my 2006 1300 VTX the shaft won't slide out like on your video I'm trying to revove it so I could replace the tire by my self .any help would be appreciated thanks !
Thank you for the help sir. I finally removed the axle from my vtx2006 that was a good help releasing the pressure from that wheel it came right out just a few tapping really appreciate that !
Partzilla WOW, thanks for responding! I am pretty sure that my next bike will be the VTX 1800. Is there a year/model/milage that you would stay away from?
@@claudesmoot1880 I've had my '03 since it was new. I have replaced the axles, bearings and brakes in 17 years, and of course tires. But then, if you aren't replacing tires, why do you have a bike in the first place?
Hi, nice video, I have a 05 Honda VTX 1800, stoped using it for 2 years and now the rear brakes doesn't work, fluid level is ok, pads are ok, don't see any leak, what would be the problem, thanks miguel.CCURN@yahoo.com
Anyone who is watching this video and thinks there’s an easy way to do it, DON’T TRY IT. That includes those hand pump, one way in, one way out kits. DO IT EXACTLY the way my MAN says to do it. It is a process but it works. I would have saved myself half the time it took to complete it if I had followed his instructions the first time. BRAVO HOME-ZILLA!
Appreciate the video. I'm not mechanically inclined, and I got it done. Saved myself the money to have it done.
Awesome! Well done! Always nice to save a little scratch doing it yourself.
Great video. Thank you for demonstrating clearly how to do this. I just got my bike out for the spring and got it on the road. I always do a short low-speed cruise to start the season off just to make sure everything is in good working order. I noticed right off that I had no brakes when using the foot brake. The hand brake works fine. I am hoping that this will save me a trip (and a few bucks) to the shop. I had my brakes replaced a few years back but I don't know if they bled out the old fluid or not. Seems logical to give this a shot and get all new fluid in there at the same time.
Update: Apparently they did not flush and change the fluid because it was very dark. Syringed out the front master to save a lot of pumping, filled with new fluid, then pumped it through the system as your video showed. Moving to the rear master, it was almost empty; the rubber boot was pulled all the way down inside. What little fluid that was there was just as dark as the front. Syringed out what was there and ended up removing the master to give it a good cleaning since it had "sludge" sitting in the bottom. Refilled with fresh fluid and pumped it through the system. Took my scooter on a short ride and I have rear brakes!
For a grand total of 5 minutes watching your video and $4.59 for DOT4 fluid, my bike is back on the road. Sorry bike shop, you didn't get me for $600 this time!
I'm having the EXACT same issue right now. Thanks for the post, and for your details. I'm about to flush my brakes, we'll see what happens.
@arices99 I know this is several years old, but I am having the same problem - hand brake works, back pedal not responding. Did bleeding the brakes fix the problem? Or did you have to replace the master cylinder?
@@preparedmindstrongspirit5724 Sorry for the late question - did this solve the issue with the back brake pedal? Or did you have to do additional work?
@@paulbaesel6737 fixed it 100%
@@paulbaesel6737 fixed with a simple fluid exchange.
Great tutorial, i have the same bike, 2005 1800F. Absolute beast of a machine. Barn find with under 2k on the odometer. Very helpful tips and the specifics on the integrated front/rear system. 👌🏻
Great tutorial, my 1st time on the vtx took about 40 minutes.
Good. I would also place a plastic garbage bag over the tank, and wrap a paper towel around the fluid reservoir and handlebar, held with a rubber band. I use a wide tin can to capture the fluid, a narrow glass is very easily knocked over.
Thank you for your help!!! Feel a great satisfaction doing this for myself on my 2002 Honda vtx R 1800 , muchas gracias!!!
Thanks for the lesson
Great job
Yes sir ,the rear axle. Appreciate for taking the time.
Thanks that was great you helped me save money thank you
Thank you, excellent video. Super easy to follow.
Do you have video replacing the front brake line for a 2003 vtx1800
Спасибо
Thanks so much. Worked great for doing my GL 1500 as it has a very similar style linked brake system. Cheers.
thank you, was not sure what that second bleeder on the front caliper was for.
Great videos! Thanks. Bled the brakes and there's a huge difference in the system. Couldn't believe the gunk that came out in the old fluid! Is there also a video for bleeding the clutch?
It's essentially the same process. No video up yet.
@@PartzillaParts Same fluid for clutch or something different? Thanks!
Thank you for your help!
great video!
thanks again! I will probably time this one wit the new front brake pads this spring....I will have to check and see if you have done a brake pad video for the VTX.
Rbl -- we do have VTX front and rear brake pad replacement videos live now if you want to check them out:
FRONT BRAKE PADS: ruclips.net/video/nVQqrQ3uCfU/видео.html
REAR BRAKE PADS: ruclips.net/video/OzVECJVcJOk/видео.html
Dumb question. I pulled all my pads at the same time the other day to see how much life I had on them. and like an idiot squeezed the rear brake pedal after I put the rear ones back but before I put the front ones back on.
Now the center pistons that run off the rear braking on the front are pushed out. I have one caliper off but still connected, and even with the rear reservoir uncapped, I cant get the piston to slide back in, tried vice grips and a C clamp already.
I need to bleed them anyways, think this will free the pistons back up when I crack the bleeders on them? i feel like they should already back off with the reservoir open. but I think I remember reading about a proportioning valve also being part of the system before.
I dont know if you still make videos but I would LOVE a video on how to clean a sticky directional. 03 VTX 1800C
We still make 'em! Maybe we can get around to that if we lay our hands on another VTX.
Oh no , what is a sticky directional! Y'all killing me , I hope mine don't stick, how will I know?
@@trukngal it's just where your directional housing gets gummed up. You just have to take it apart and clean it. It's actually super easy!
Just completed this job on my 04 VTX 1800. Have any idea why HONDA uses the different sizes of bleed valves on the front calipers? Seems odd to me!
Around 9:07, when you're bleeding the rear brake fluid from the front, as you pump some air comes out of the caliper. Why is that? Shouldn't there be no air in the system?
It came out, waiting to long to change it probably why it happened
Thanks for sharing
Excellent...thank you !
When finished, how much travel should be in the front brake lever?
I was doing great on this until I started the back brake. Somehow air got in….the reservoir wasn’t empty and had plenty fluid. Not sure how air got in but my rear brake is now spongy. How do I get the air out from this point? Looking online but figured I’d ask here.
Hello. A big off topic, but I am trying to find directions or video on how to change out the throttle sleeve on a Honda VTX 1800. Do you have any such video or directoins?
nice tips man !
Im wondering if those pointy chrome spark plug covers would fit on my 1300r
There is another bleeder on the left side that goes to the anti dive unit. does that bleed with the stuff you just showed here or is it a separate job?
Don't say that, oh no what's a anti drive unit
thank you
How often should I be changing the brake fluid?
People change at different mileage. Me & the hundreds of other riders I know change it when the fluid in the master gets a little dark a little.
Hi John my question is off topic but its about the 2008 VTX 1800, Im 6'4" 350 and man Im all jamed up on the bike, The only tall guy seat I can find for it is the ultimate big boy seat which shoulde help, what I really want are forward pegs and I can find them for the touring model anywhere. I cant find them for any VTX model period, I noticed them on the bike in the video and thats what Im looking for...I would apperciate any suggestions on where to look or what adapter kits that would help with my problem. I grew up on pegs and I just got back into riding again and jumped on a good deal too fast before really feeling the bike out, I love the bike, its a sweet beast but its set up for 5'8" 170 Lb guys. I hate floor boards, they just dont feel right too me, not enough angle. Thanks Joey
love your videos. what size is the tube?
1/4" should get the job done.
Thanks
I'm sorry if this is a little off topic but speaking of brakes, is it recommended to only use OEM brake pads?
I've been looking cuz I have to replace mine and I see a lot of breaks online for this machine. Some say they are sintered Semi sintered and to be honest with you I have no idea what that means or how it impacts of performance. If you can chime in I greatly appreciate it thanks for your great videos!
There are good aftermarket brake companies. Semi sintered is for touring or longer lasting. Sintered is a race performance thing.
Would it not be better to completely drain all the old fluid first, then add new brake fluid? Seems like you would be just mixing good and old. Bleeding air out is easy, just fill resivoir and leave bleed valve open until fluid comes out, then close valve and do a pressure bleed as you just did, then top off resivoir if new brakes are installed, otherwise do as you stated in your video. This would be better, correct?
John, great question. Either method works. We feel that the method we used in the video is a little easier to eliminate the possibility of leaving air in the line. The new fluid will push the old fluid out, so the minimal mixing of old and new isn't a big deal.
is it necessary to open and close the bleed valve since you are trying to bleed out all of the old fluid first? seems like it would be quicker if you pumped out the old fluid first, then open and close valve after you pour in the new fluid. you could still watch to make sure old fluid doesn't go below reservoir drain hole if you dont want air in system. what do you think?
Great question Mark!
The method we used in this video is the manual way. with that said, the bleed valve must be closed in order to build pressure and push out the old/new fluid.
New to doing my own maintenance and need to bleed my brakes as front lever is bottoming out at my handle bars... My question is... Can I do this on the side stand or does my bike need to be upright?
Good question, thanks
Tried to bleed my father inlaws rear brake but could not get the pedal stiff, now I know why ….
You da man
Purchased a 1800 that had sat for a year. Test rode it and all seemed to be as it should. Half way home, I went to exit the freeway and put my foot on the rear brake and it went soft, no pads actuated. Talk about a sinking feeling!! Front brakes are working perfectly... thankfully!!
Could this just be that the brake lines may have air in them and need to be bled? Or is there a larger issue?
Typically after sitting for that long, you want to bleed the brakes. Air can get into the system over time.
or cylinder piston is stuck
Meant to say piston in the brake caliper may be stuck. If the brake pedal offered no resistance, then most likely air in the line is the problem.
Quick question, would it be possible call them like a turkey baster to get all the Bold bring it out first then add new brake fluid and ripped the process you're showing?
Turkey baster suck. Go to an animal feed store purchase large syringes, and the piece of tubing to the end and you can suck out the old fluid with precision, no drips. But do not take 100% out of the reservoir or you will get air in the lines. Also I feel the syringe sucks up any debris in the bottom of the reservoir that would normally get pushed through your lines to your calibers.
Oh and don't forget to fill your Reservoir up before you start bleeding the calibers
Will 1l of fluid be enough for front and back brakes when doing what you did in the video?
Yes. 1qt or 1l should be enough.
i actually need infor.
on a Suzuki gsxr 1000. year 2003, brake, rear, bleed & install, also installing a second fan,
Hi I'm trying to take the rear wheel on my 2006 1300 VTX the shaft won't slide out like on your video I'm trying to revove it so I could replace the tire by my self .any help would be appreciated thanks !
I'm guessing you're talking about the axle? Once the nut is off, you have to relieve the pressure of the wheel on the axle to get it out.
Thank you for the help sir. I finally removed the axle from my vtx2006 that was a good help releasing the pressure from that wheel it came right out just a few tapping really appreciate that !
Is the rubber diaphragm reusable or do you need to get a new one?
reusable if not damaged. inspect closely.
Partzilla WOW, thanks for responding! I am pretty sure that my next bike will be the VTX 1800. Is there a year/model/milage that you would stay away from?
VTXs are great bikes! It just depends on how it was treated.
@@claudesmoot1880 I've had my '03 since it was new. I have replaced the axles, bearings and brakes in 17 years, and of course tires. But then, if you aren't replacing tires, why do you have a bike in the first place?
anybody know the actual hose size ? thanks
This is what we use on our brake bleed setups: www.partzilla.com/product/aftermarket/4MBR-HELIX-316-5166
what size tubing do I need for this job?
1/4 inch.
I just use a length of 1/4" fish tank air hose. Probably cheaper than going to a parts store.
Hi, nice video, I have a 05 Honda VTX 1800, stoped using it for 2 years and now the rear brakes doesn't work, fluid level is ok, pads are ok, don't see any leak, what would be the problem, thanks miguel.CCURN@yahoo.com
Over time, there could be condensation in the line or some air seeped in. Have you bled the brakes yet?
Partzilla thanks for your reply. No I haven't yet, but I'm gonna do it, I'll let you know.