Wow, awesome video. I have never cleaned my 5 yr old Kona close to this thorough and I am very excited to see what it could actually look like again. Thanks for posting.
So I've watched videos of a Craig Ferguson interview, a ship sinking, a bird get sucked into a jet engine, a bike tuning video, some sourcefed clips, and the majority of two football games online today... and this is still the best video I've seen. My ride's clean at this moment and I'm very tempted to re-clean. Thank you! And subscribed.
Pretty dirty? That bike is clean compared to mine. $5 bike from a garage sale, been through mud, sand, salty water, dirt. Never been washed, owned for 4 years. That's what I call a 'dirty' bike, and that's why I clicked on this video... Hahah, helped heaps! Cheers
Clint thanks for all the MTB tips and videos. Very helpful! Leaf blowers work great for drying dirt bikes and mountain bikes for people without a compressor. I use a simple 24v battery powered blower.
I used to be an avid mountainbiker and was a cleaning freak just like you. I had to quit racing because of health issues, so now just ride for recreation. Back then I used the exact same routing when cleaning my bikes, except for the compressed air because I didn't have a compressor. And yes, my bolts did rust... Now I am very less fanatic about cleaning. And it does wear out faster now that it has gunk all over it, despite being used less hard... Really good video, thx for putting it online!
Thank you. Simply thank you. I watched both "clean" videos & I was able to wash both my bikes - my new (to me!) road bike & mtn bike, which, to my chagrin, I realized as I was washing today I have not washed since buying her earlier this year! Most of the equipment I was able to get @ my local $1 store, and I used an old toothbrush to get in the chain & gear areas. What a difference! Still learning here, but thanks to you, felt like I knew what I was doing!
Terrific demonstration video. I very much liked how you showed each item used in the cleaning process at the outset for those of us needing to make a shopping list. Well Done!!!
Nice video. I think it's a good idea to bag the rear break disk and calliper when cleaning the drive train. Keep the breaks nice and crisp and free from contamination.
Adrian, I make sure water isn't forced into the bearings. When I use the "stream" or "jet" mode on the nozzle I usually only use that on the chain and directly on the cassette (not at an angle, which could force water into the bearings). My Industry Nine wheels are over 3 years old and the bearings are still very smooth. Use a light spray (like "shower" mode) on the frame, and maybe something in between for things like derailleurs. I've been cleaning bikes like this for 15 years with no issues
I owe you a beer, Gibbs. Just got into the sport, and taking care of my investment is a big deal to me. Glad we're on the same page, and happier that you made a video about it. Cheers, bro.
Jonathan, many times a chain will rust if allowed to air dry so I would at least dry it with a rag or paper towel. You'll also get some rust inside bolts like stem & water bottle holder bolts. I recommend that you towel dry the bike as much as possible. But leaving some water on to dry isn't going to hurt. I live in Florida where the humidity is extremely high in the summer so water tends to sit much longer than in an arid environment. That's why I use a compressor like I do.
Great vid, only tip is to say what products are as brand names (like clean green) aren't useful to people who don't live in the same country, needed to google to find out what it was. Other than that great guide, thanks for making it.
This is a "I'm getting ready to give my bike a photoshoot" type of clean up. Very thorough, nice video! Personally, I just rinse off with a hose, wipe the drivetrain clean (getting the stuff that didn't come off in the spray), dry, and relube chain. If I've got the time, I wipe down the bike after with a wet rag to get the stains off. That's a cleaning that I'll do for a weekly/standard maintenance.
I am just getting into bicycling touring. I am commuting to work in order to train and encounter all kinds of weather. I really appreciate your very informative video and have added this cleaning regime to my maintenance schedule. Thank you!
i am new on this and just thinking on cleaning the bike takes more than 15 min. you are brilliant!!! after you explain it, peace of cake !!! thanks for taking the time bro!!! saludos from Puerto Rico!!!
Nice job there. But where I live the bike trails are crushed limestone and all that effort would be wasted in about 5 seconds on the trail. That "kitty litter" stuff is just awful and gets in everything on a bike. The most effort I might spend is cleaning the chain, and the rest just gets a quick wipe-down since it'll get caked again without even trying. A wash at this level might be done only once or twice a year such as before garaging the bike for the winter.
Thanks for the video! I'm just getting back into biking to lose weight and rode my bike more in the month of June than I have rode in my life. My bike is extremely dirty right now and plan on using this as a guide to get it cleaned today
+William Smith, you do not have to lube the shocks. This gets done when doing the routine air sleeve maintenance (rear shock) and oil change (front shock). +Asim dahal, this is the same cleaning method I use on both my mountain bikes, my cyclocross bike, and my road bike.
but the oil helps to prevent corrosion, especially on lower end forks. i believe it will not boost performance, just keep the seals lubricated. also nice vid. i can get it down for about 12 mins. here's a quick tip for everyone. if you have time, clean the casette with the same solution you used to clean the bike. it adds a nice shine.
Cint, thanks for the video. But I didn't understand - you don't have to lube the front and rear shocks never? Or is it some part of a routine you should do once in a while?
No, you don't Lube the shaft/stanchions of the shock or fork. That would attract dirt. The lube comes from the Fox Float fluid that is inside. If you do the routine maintenance like you're supposed to they will always have enough lubricant.
Clint, thank you for a quick response! May I ask what exactly do you mean by "the routine maintenance like you're supposed to"? Can you maybe reference me to a video on the subject? Subscribed :-)
Connor, if you spray the chain with water after cleaning it with simple green then it will be fine. I always recommend a chain-specific cleaner but they can be more expensive so simple green is great for people on a budget.
Luis, sometimes I will spray the cassette with simple green and hose it off before starting the chain. Yes, I should do the pulley wheels first but I forget a lot of the time. In the end, it doesn't make too much of a difference though. Regarding pressure on the cassette, if you go directly on it with a stream of water you won't get water in the freewheel. But you do have to be precise about it.
A very well done movie - thank you! All over the world bikes get muddy, and all over the world there is a wife not happy with the oily mud under your feet when the bike is clean and the sole of your shoe is filthy - I love your comment on this!
@WarpedDimensions, no, you don't need to clean after every ride. I would clean the drive train after every dozen rides or so. I've heard from people that ride in dusty areas a lot that they use an air compressor to blow dust off the bike after a ride. I would take a rag or paper towel with a little bit of degreaser (like Simple Green) and wipe down the chain (spinning the pedals backwards) and then lube the chain after every ride.
Great video. This method works very well. I could not find my attachment for my air compressor, so I ended up using my shop vac (blower part) and it worked great!
Cole, here are places you don't want to spray directly with a stream of water: hubs, headset and bottom bracket. The things to lube after cleaning are the chain, pedals and derailleurs. You can also lube the derailleur cables but you need to know a few tricks to do that. I lube my chain every ride or every other ride.
So glad I found your channel. I know this is an older vid, but I'm just getting into mountain biking and I do love to take really good care of my equipment. Thanks for the information.
I'm not sure what Mr. Proper is, but you can clean the frame with a small amount of dish washing soap in water. For the chain if you can't find something like Simple Green (found here in the U.S.), look at bicycle chain cleaning solution from companies like Finish Line, Park or Pedros.
Getting water in that bottom bracket is a straight killer of bikes and incredibly easy with a high pressure washer. It sucks, but you have to rinse the chain and the main chain drive with rinses and scrubs, like was done here in the video. You cannot high pressure spray anything around the main drive. Got to be gentle with it, since it's basically the engine of the bike.
Dave, I've never had an issue with Simple Green. I dilute it in the spray bottle about 4:1 for components, and about 2:1 for the chain cleaner. Pedros is a better product but it's more expensive. I mainly use Simple Green on the drive train and derailleurs.
Ayden, the fork and shock are lubed when doing the oil change and air sleeve maintenance. Putting oil on the stanchions and shock shaft will attract dirt which could work its way into the seals. If you service your fork and shock as Fox recommends then you should be fine. I have a video on how to do air sleeve maintenance on the shock and how to change the oil in a Talas fork.
I take my bike to a hand wash car wash. I power wash THE WHOLE bike. The fear of getting water-especially in a sealed bottom bracket is near impossible with todays bottom brackets and is impossible with completely sealed bottom brackets. I rotate the derailleur while spraying, which removes crud from it and the pulleys. I get home and spray acetone(finger nail polish remover) on the bike(technique I learned to dry flasks in my organic chem classes!). Then I use air from a scuba tank to dry the bikr. Lube as necessary. I've taken of bottom brackets after YEARS of doing this and they are still encassed in grease.
How long did it take using the carwash method and did you only use one setting? Might it be okay to use the extra settings like the degreaser one? Peace ?_?
Thanks for this video. I had not really cleaned my new bike very well since I got it. I followed the video step by step and my Norco Threshold Cross is sparkling. Got the Park chain cleaner and brush...worked awesome. Thanks very much!!!
Jakob, yes this technique works very well for a race bike. The bike in the video was my XC race bike (which has been replaced by an Orbea OCCAM 29er since then). Cleaning frequency is totally dependent on the conditions but you don't want to go more than a dozen rides or so without cleaning the drive train. Clean after a muddy or wet ride for sure. I can go 6-8 weeks in the winter without cleaning the bike (I ride through the winter). In the summer I might have to clean every week due to rain.
honestly i was thnking of buying a bike and i want to start riding, although im a beginner and there is a long way till i actually get a bike, this is better than watching porn ..
I use a light setting on the nozzle, something like a shower, or even mist if you're worried about water penetrating pivots or bearings. This is no different from rain on your bike. If a bike is covered in mud (obviously mine wasn't in this video). There is simply no way of getting the bike clean without water. But yes, you must use care and not go crazy with a jet setting or any water forced in places you don't want it.
Bike shops don't do squat in my experience. They wash the frame with soap. The crud is even still in the jockey wheels when you get it back. They never do what they are supposed to for actual bikes that get used. They do casual job for casual riders, no more no less.
Thanks Clint, I've been letting the bike shop take care of cleaning my road bike and waited little too long this time. Now I am out a front derailer due to seize up. Thanks to your videos I think I can handle this for both the mountain and road bike.
Wow, that's more than I paid for my bike. Amazing how specialized life has become, even to wash a bike now uses up more resources than some small third world country. Nice vid though
I use dishwashing liquid, soft soap, a sponge, a stiff brush and my bathtub. (Because i live in a suburb area and can't get oil everywhere) Chain i get with the brush (same as the chain cleaner but a bit messier and requires some more soap) I let it air dry for a few minutes and then i use a dry rag or whatever on everything. Spray some 5-56 or equivalent on derailleurs, sprockets and chain. Let it dry up and finish off with chain lube. DONE! The expensive bit here is the stand and the air compressor. Both which you can easily do without.
Usually you have either time or money. He most definately has the latter. I can do it pretty quickly, though without that fancy stuff, albeit I usually don't get my bike that dirty since I drive long but relatively clean tours.
I typically run Aspens on my FS 29er and love them. I used the Ignitor on the front when the trails are really dry and slippery but typically I just run Aspens front and rear. The Ardents are my favorite for rougher terrain.
thanks clint this was very helpful. I'm just getting back to mtbing again. I used to clean my bike for about an hour or two, but now being married with a son doesn't give me that priviledge so this is definitely a great tip. thanks
I liked your video man! Well done, but , I do not hink that spraying water on the crank or hubs will get water in it. It's maybe because you're a neet "freak" (In a good way), you , but thoses places, especially on bikes like yours are very well sealed. But, nice job man, like your bike!
ahh I understand now, just a quick one though could I put 2stroke engine oil into a oil can and put that inside the cranks and joints as it is thicker oil?
I don't mountain bike, I only have a road bike. I have to say that bike looks awesome. I really like the paint scheme too. Also good job on mentioning not to jet water into the important areas especially the bottom bracket, some people fail to mention it and why not to. Nice video, bike and tips.
CarbTheVeganUp , I mainly use Simple Green, which is biodegradable. Here is info on Simple Green: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner is readily decomposed by naturally occurring microorganisms. Simple Green meets the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development’s (OECD) requirements for ready biodegradability. ("Ready" biodegradability is the highest biodegradable classification that a product can achieve.)
Great video! I will suggest simple green crystal. I use it on my bikes and i believe is much stronger then the regular simple green. Sometimes you don't even have to use a brush to clean the drivetrain.
i just throw mine in a lake for and hour with a rope tied too it. Then pull it out and it all clean. Just kidding. Even if my old bike sets on the wall rack, it still get very dirty. My motorcycle has been setting for 2 months. It looks like i went riding in a mud pit.
Good video... I don't have a compressor or a hose, as I am an apartment dweller, but the bucket of soapy water with brushes and a towel in the laundry room over the drain hole works fine as well.. about the same amount of time. Though I am surely not as thorough as you are. Cheers my friend!
Do not use WD-40 on a chain. It does not make a good lubricant and will get your drivetrain very dirty. WD-40 does make some bike-specific products that look good but I have not tried them.
I had never thought about using compressed air for drying! Thanks about the idea! There was few things that I'd do differently though: -Do not "jet" the cassette or apply cleaning products directly to it when it's attached to the hub. There is chance of ruining bearings. If you want to clean it without taking it off, just give it quick brush. When you want it properly clean, just take it off. -I personally prefer not using same brush for possibly oily surfaces and brakes.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing this. I have to replace my chain and cassette every year with all the riding I do but want to know how to clean the drive train at least on a monthly basis. Your video is all I need to get going on this.
This is a very useful video. I do not own a yard but i wash my bike in my tub. That worked pretty good so far for me, except that i was not using as many "tools" as you shown. Next time will give it a try. Thank you
@austinbprice, surface rust will usually happen on a chain and cassette if they are left wet, especially in more humid areas. If water is left inside bolts (like stem bolts) you'll also get surface rust pretty quickly. Soif a compressor is not used the chain and cassette should be dried with a paper towel or rag.
I don't recommend lubing the stanchions. If you maintain your shock and fork properly the internal lube from the Fox float fluid will lube properly. Other lube can attract dirt which can work its way in the seals.
@Offtheheezay95, sealed bearings today are pretty durable. All you need to do to check is remove the wheels and turn the axle, checking for friction. If the bearings feel smooth with no hesitation or "crunchiness", you're good. If not, you can order Enduro bearings from your LBS or online, and they're not difficult to change. All this assumes you have sealed bearings. If they are loose bearings they all you need to do is repack them.
Mr. Fireworks, an air compressor is definitely not required. But once you have one you'll be surprised at how many uses you get out of it. Inflating tires as tubeless is probably the best uses. And blowing up my kids' pool floats is definitely high on the list.
Every 3 or 4 months I'll drop the fork out and clean the headset bearings. With sealed hubs (Industry Nine) and sealed bottom bracket, those don't take any maintenance until they go out; then they're just replaced. I don't clean pivots unless they stop being smooth. It's a good idea every once in awhile to take the rear wheel off and undo a shock bolt to test the rear suspension for play and smoothness. If it's fine, don't worry about it.
@phatair360, I've never had a problem with dish soap damaging tires. It's only on the tires for a minute or so. Tires need to be replaced at the very longest once each year. If you're riding regularly a rear tire will wear out in 6-8 months. If you're worried about cleaning products on tires just spray them off with water since they'll get dirty on the next ride anyway.
@deeman7030, you don't need to lube the fork and shock. But you do need do air sleeve maintenance on the shock every 30-50 hours of riding and change the fork oil (including the float fluid) every 30-50 hours of riding. It's the float fluid that keeps the shock shaft and fork stanchions lubed.
Wear can be accelerated here in Florida because we have a lot of silicon in the soil. Which is why I also ride a SS about half the time for XC riding :)
@MrMCBvideo, you don't need to lube the suspension if you do the proper routine maintenance on the fox fork & shock (about every 30-50 hours of riding). The Fox Float Fluid that's used in the maintenance procedure provides the lube. In between the service intervals you just need to keep the stanchion tubes clean using isopropyl alcohol.
I've never had a problem getting contaminants on the brake pads when washing a bike. You do need to pay attention to the direction you spray. I mentioned in another reply that it's a good idea to get some brake cleaner and wipe down the rotors.
Andrew, I have not tried Mr. Sheen. I used to use furniture spray a long time ago but haven't recently. It's a good idea, especially if you ride in wetter conditions.
I should have clarified in the video that if you have ANY grease on a brush then don't use it on the rotors. The brush I used was not used on a chain or pulleys but I didn't clarify that. Sorry. The best thing for the rotors is to put automotive brake clean on a clean paper towel and wipe them down. As far as compressed air, I only use it on the chain, cable bosses, and bolts like on the stem. I don't use it directly on bearings for the reason you stated.
I leave 2 to 3 spacers when I cut my steerer tube so that I will have options for varying bar heights for different riding conditions. Cutting steerer tube is easy but I recommend a Park cutting guide. Remember that you'll need a star nut setter too. And of course if you're doing your own headset you'll need a crown race setter (you have to set it before you measure and cut the steerer tube) and a headset press. So it may be best to take it to a shop if you don't have all those tools.
Wow, awesome video. I have never cleaned my 5 yr old Kona close to this thorough and I am very excited to see what it could actually look like again. Thanks for posting.
So I've watched videos of a Craig Ferguson interview, a ship sinking, a bird get sucked into a jet engine, a bike tuning video, some sourcefed clips, and the majority of two football games online today... and this is still the best video I've seen. My ride's clean at this moment and I'm very tempted to re-clean. Thank you! And subscribed.
I don't have an air-compressor as you do, but I use an electric leaf blower to dry off those hard to dry places on my bike.
Pretty dirty? That bike is clean compared to mine. $5 bike from a garage sale, been through mud, sand, salty water, dirt. Never been washed, owned for 4 years. That's what I call a 'dirty' bike, and that's why I clicked on this video... Hahah, helped heaps! Cheers
Clint thanks for all the MTB tips and videos. Very helpful!
Leaf blowers work great for drying dirt bikes and mountain bikes for people without a compressor. I use a simple 24v battery powered blower.
I bought a road bike last week and was a little concerned about the maintenance. But not any more! Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
I can’t afford a compressor so I use the wife’s hair dryer instead. Stick it on cold setting and it works a treat 🤙🏼
I used to be an avid mountainbiker and was a cleaning freak just like you. I had to quit racing because of health issues, so now just ride for recreation.
Back then I used the exact same routing when cleaning my bikes, except for the compressed air because I didn't have a compressor. And yes, my bolts did rust... Now I am very less fanatic about cleaning. And it does wear out faster now that it has gunk all over it, despite being used less hard...
Really good video, thx for putting it online!
Thank you. Simply thank you. I watched both "clean" videos & I was able to wash both my bikes - my new (to me!) road bike & mtn bike, which, to my chagrin, I realized as I was washing today I have not washed since buying her earlier this year! Most of the equipment I was able to get @ my local $1 store, and I used an old toothbrush to get in the chain & gear areas. What a difference! Still learning here, but thanks to you, felt like I knew what I was doing!
Thanks for the comment. Glad I could help you!
Terrific demonstration video. I very much liked how you showed each item used in the cleaning process at the outset for those of us needing to make a shopping list.
Well Done!!!
Nice video. I think it's a good idea to bag the rear break disk and calliper when cleaning the drive train. Keep the breaks nice and crisp and free from contamination.
Adrian, I make sure water isn't forced into the bearings. When I use the "stream" or "jet" mode on the nozzle I usually only use that on the chain and directly on the cassette (not at an angle, which could force water into the bearings). My Industry Nine wheels are over 3 years old and the bearings are still very smooth. Use a light spray (like "shower" mode) on the frame, and maybe something in between for things like derailleurs. I've been cleaning bikes like this for 15 years with no issues
I owe you a beer, Gibbs. Just got into the sport, and taking care of my investment is a big deal to me. Glad we're on the same page, and happier that you made a video about it. Cheers, bro.
If you are ever in Gainesville, Florida I will take you up on it!
If u r serious about maintaining and cleaning check out his other cleaning video.
Jonathan, many times a chain will rust if allowed to air dry so I would at least dry it with a rag or paper towel. You'll also get some rust inside bolts like stem & water bottle holder bolts. I recommend that you towel dry the bike as much as possible. But leaving some water on to dry isn't going to hurt. I live in Florida where the humidity is extremely high in the summer so water tends to sit much longer than in an arid environment. That's why I use a compressor like I do.
Great vid, only tip is to say what products are as brand names (like clean green) aren't useful to people who don't live in the same country, needed to google to find out what it was. Other than that great guide, thanks for making it.
+Monsta Munch Who the hell told you to live in BFE? Oh, no you had to google something. Are you going to be ok?
Monsta Munch ezan khan
Clean Green is a mild degreaser. Find that.
This is a "I'm getting ready to give my bike a photoshoot" type of clean up. Very thorough, nice video!
Personally, I just rinse off with a hose, wipe the drivetrain clean (getting the stuff that didn't come off in the spray), dry, and relube chain. If I've got the time, I wipe down the bike after with a wet rag to get the stains off. That's a cleaning that I'll do for a weekly/standard maintenance.
I use a leaf blower vac to dry my motorcycle and it works great. I'm sure it would work on a bike also. Thanks for posting.
Used to do that for my car now I just do the windows and hit the freeway usually.
I am just getting into bicycling touring. I am commuting to work in order to train and encounter all kinds of weather. I really appreciate your very informative video and have added this cleaning regime to my maintenance schedule. Thank you!
like the use of a inner tube as a chain protector
i am new on this and just thinking on cleaning the bike takes more than 15 min. you are brilliant!!! after you explain it, peace of cake !!! thanks for taking the time bro!!! saludos from Puerto Rico!!!
Nice job there. But where I live the bike trails are crushed limestone and all that effort would be wasted in about 5 seconds on the trail. That "kitty litter" stuff is just awful and gets in everything on a bike. The most effort I might spend is cleaning the chain, and the rest just gets a quick wipe-down since it'll get caked again without even trying. A wash at this level might be done only once or twice a year such as before garaging the bike for the winter.
Thanks for the video! I'm just getting back into biking to lose weight and rode my bike more in the month of June than I have rode in my life. My bike is extremely dirty right now and plan on using this as a guide to get it cleaned today
+William Smith, you do not have to lube the shocks. This gets done when doing the routine air sleeve maintenance (rear shock) and oil change (front shock).
+Asim dahal, this is the same cleaning method I use on both my mountain bikes, my cyclocross bike, and my road bike.
but the oil helps to prevent corrosion, especially on lower end forks. i believe it will not boost performance, just keep the seals lubricated. also nice vid. i can get it down for about 12 mins. here's a quick tip for everyone. if you have time, clean the casette with the same solution you used to clean the bike. it adds a nice shine.
Cint, thanks for the video. But I didn't understand - you don't have to lube the front and rear shocks never? Or is it some part of a routine you should do once in a while?
No, you don't Lube the shaft/stanchions of the shock or fork. That would attract dirt. The lube comes from the Fox Float fluid that is inside. If you do the routine maintenance like you're supposed to they will always have enough lubricant.
Clint, thank you for a quick response! May I ask what exactly do you mean by "the routine maintenance like you're supposed to"? Can you maybe reference me to a video on the subject? Subscribed :-)
ruclips.net/video/yZBiq0wuhU4/видео.html
Connor, if you spray the chain with water after cleaning it with simple green then it will be fine. I always recommend a chain-specific cleaner but they can be more expensive so simple green is great for people on a budget.
Mention: Dont do this in direct sunlight, it will dry whatever you washed in seconds...
Also canned air works if you dont have a $500+ air compressor.
Luis, sometimes I will spray the cassette with simple green and hose it off before starting the chain. Yes, I should do the pulley wheels first but I forget a lot of the time. In the end, it doesn't make too much of a difference though.
Regarding pressure on the cassette, if you go directly on it with a stream of water you won't get water in the freewheel. But you do have to be precise about it.
This video is great. Very informative. Thanks so much for doing this video.
A very well done movie - thank you! All over the world bikes get muddy, and all over the world there is a wife not happy with the oily mud under your feet when the bike is clean and the sole of your shoe is filthy - I love your comment on this!
"Cars are so yesterday, bikes are the future!"
Viva La Bicycletta!
Agreed!
@@sammyjjoo imagine replying to someone who was commenting this video 6 year ago lol
@WarpedDimensions, no, you don't need to clean after every ride. I would clean the drive train after every dozen rides or so. I've heard from people that ride in dusty areas a lot that they use an air compressor to blow dust off the bike after a ride. I would take a rag or paper towel with a little bit of degreaser (like Simple Green) and wipe down the chain (spinning the pedals backwards) and then lube the chain after every ride.
Great video. This method works very well. I could not find my attachment for my air compressor, so I ended up using my shop vac (blower part) and it worked great!
The way 🚦 dddss
Hr
Cole, here are places you don't want to spray directly with a stream of water: hubs, headset and bottom bracket. The things to lube after cleaning are the chain, pedals and derailleurs. You can also lube the derailleur cables but you need to know a few tricks to do that. I lube my chain every ride or every other ride.
Minute 8:00 a squirrel going up the roof :D
Eduard Louis Butnaru yep
Amazing!
Eduard Louis Butnaru that's a big rat
8:01 to be exact
Hey look a squirrel! lol
So glad I found your channel. I know this is an older vid, but I'm just getting into mountain biking and I do love to take really good care of my equipment. Thanks for the information.
I live in Georgia, so your 'pretty dirty' is my 'I'm just going down the road to a friends,back in an hour' xD lol
I ride in Georgia quite a bit. I love the trails around Blue Ridge. Trust me, my bike has gotten quite dirty up there!
+Clint Gibbs the red clay down south is a pain to clean though...
But makes for great trails and dirt roads when dry!
+Clint Gibbs that's true,to bad it been raining a lot lately
Life in the South.
I'm not sure what Mr. Proper is, but you can clean the frame with a small amount of dish washing soap in water. For the chain if you can't find something like Simple Green (found here in the U.S.), look at bicycle chain cleaning solution from companies like Finish Line, Park or Pedros.
best video on the topic that I have seen. Thanks a lot.
Simple green for simple cleaning. Simple green is also the best car engine cleaner/degreser. Thanks Clint for the simple video. Cheers!
Yes a squirrel 8 min mark on fence and then goes on roof
Those are actually XTR pedals. They're probably 5 years old or more but are still super smooth. I've only done bearing maintenance on them one time.
Good video but only for those who lives in his own house and has a lawn)
Yeah a fellow biker ruined his bottom bracket with a pressure washer, too. Rusty!
I have an old school street pump right in front of my apartment, so I take the bike on the sidewalk and wash it there.
Don't mind people watching.
Getting water in that bottom bracket is a straight killer of bikes and incredibly easy with a high pressure washer. It sucks, but you have to rinse the chain and the main chain drive with rinses and scrubs, like was done here in the video. You cannot high pressure spray anything around the main drive. Got to be gentle with it, since it's basically the engine of the bike.
MrGoodkat pressure washers kill bikes... full sus mtbs have even more bearings for you to degrease with pressure... trust me I learned the hard way...
Dave, I've never had an issue with Simple Green. I dilute it in the spray bottle about 4:1 for components, and about 2:1 for the chain cleaner. Pedros is a better product but it's more expensive. I mainly use Simple Green on the drive train and derailleurs.
I just started riding.
I live in the desert so after my first bike ride, my bike was covered with dust. Do I have to clean it after every ride? :\
WarpedDimensions just clean the suspension sanctions and you’ll be good!
Ayden, the fork and shock are lubed when doing the oil change and air sleeve maintenance. Putting oil on the stanchions and shock shaft will attract dirt which could work its way into the seals. If you service your fork and shock as Fox recommends then you should be fine. I have a video on how to do air sleeve maintenance on the shock and how to change the oil in a Talas fork.
I take my bike to a hand wash car wash. I power wash THE WHOLE bike. The fear of getting water-especially in a sealed bottom bracket is near impossible with todays bottom brackets and is impossible with completely sealed bottom brackets. I rotate the derailleur while spraying, which removes crud from it and the pulleys. I get home and spray acetone(finger nail polish remover) on the bike(technique I learned to dry flasks in my organic chem classes!). Then I use air from a scuba tank to dry the bikr. Lube as necessary. I've taken of bottom brackets after YEARS of doing this and they are still encassed in grease.
How long did it take using the carwash method and did you only use one setting? Might it be okay to use the extra settings like the degreaser one?
Peace
?_?
Thanks for this video. I had not really cleaned my new bike very well since I got it. I followed the video step by step and my Norco Threshold Cross is sparkling. Got the Park chain cleaner and brush...worked awesome. Thanks very much!!!
Simple Green as in the all purpose cleaner?
Yes. It's a biodegradable degreaser that's readily available in the United States.
yup I thought it was a super cleaner bought it turns out no better than a regular dawn dish soap
Jakob, yes this technique works very well for a race bike. The bike in the video was my XC race bike (which has been replaced by an Orbea OCCAM 29er since then). Cleaning frequency is totally dependent on the conditions but you don't want to go more than a dozen rides or so without cleaning the drive train. Clean after a muddy or wet ride for sure. I can go 6-8 weeks in the winter without cleaning the bike (I ride through the winter). In the summer I might have to clean every week due to rain.
honestly i was thnking of buying a bike and i want to start riding, although im a beginner and there is a long way till i actually get a bike, this is better than watching porn ..
Lol
And how'd it go?
Tony Eatinsky you got a bike yet?
I respect people, who care about their own stuff. Glint, you're good owner!
SQUIRL ON THE ROOF BEHIND HIM AT 8:00
I use a light setting on the nozzle, something like a shower, or even mist if you're worried about water penetrating pivots or bearings. This is no different from rain on your bike. If a bike is covered in mud (obviously mine wasn't in this video). There is simply no way of getting the bike clean without water. But yes, you must use care and not go crazy with a jet setting or any water forced in places you don't want it.
Or, you take your bike to the bike shop and forget about all the bottles and brushes and chain cleaners...
Bike shops don't do squat in my experience. They wash the frame with soap. The crud is even still in the jockey wheels when you get it back. They never do what they are supposed to for actual bikes that get used. They do casual job for casual riders, no more no less.
Great, I like the way you clean your bike: the chain first, and the frame afterward. Thanks
a lot!
I'll have to use my sister's hair dryer!
Those are Maxxis Aspen tires. They're a very fast and surprisingly stable tire. They also do great tubeless.
8:00 da çatıya sincap çıkıyor
Thanks Clint, I've been letting the bike shop take care of cleaning my road bike and waited little too long this time. Now I am out a front derailer due to seize up. Thanks to your videos I think I can handle this for both the mountain and road bike.
Wow, that's more than I paid for my bike. Amazing how specialized life has become, even to wash a bike now uses up more resources than some small third world country. Nice vid though
I use dishwashing liquid, soft soap, a sponge, a stiff brush and my bathtub. (Because i live in a suburb area and can't get oil everywhere)
Chain i get with the brush (same as the chain cleaner but a bit messier and requires some more soap)
I let it air dry for a few minutes and then i use a dry rag or whatever on everything. Spray some 5-56 or equivalent on derailleurs, sprockets and chain. Let it dry up and finish off with chain lube. DONE!
The expensive bit here is the stand and the air compressor. Both which you can easily do without.
Laifer Reyes yep , warm water , degreaser . wup liq , brush , sponge done . peace
Usually you have either time or money. He most definately has the latter. I can do it pretty quickly, though without that fancy stuff, albeit I usually don't get my bike that dirty since I drive long but relatively clean tours.
Just put it out in the rain, free cleaning.
A big thank you from Germany. Just started with mountain-biking and your video was very helpful.
Find the squirrel at 8:00-8:04
Billy, no, the shock and fork are lube when doing the air sleeve maintenance and oil change (every 30-50 hours recommended).
I like to keep my bike dirty. Kind of like a mud bogging truck. Shows character ;)
Lol i don't clean anything except my shocks :P
me too.. the main thing is the gears and chain. this guy overkills about 5 times. lol
lol, after you get scraped up in an injury, you should forgo showering, antiseptics, and antibiotics ... cuz it shows character ...
Sam Wong that makes no sense compared to what the original poster siad.
Kush Friendly Metaphors Kush, as they relate to what ***** said. Btw ... what poster lol
I typically run Aspens on my FS 29er and love them. I used the Ignitor on the front when the trails are really dry and slippery but typically I just run Aspens front and rear. The Ardents are my favorite for rougher terrain.
Don't have a wife ! That's why I got a bike !
thanks clint this was very helpful. I'm just getting back to mtbing again. I used to clean my bike for about an hour or two, but now being married with a son doesn't give me that priviledge so this is definitely a great tip. thanks
I liked your video man! Well done, but , I do not hink that spraying water on the crank or hubs will get water in it. It's maybe because you're a neet "freak" (In a good way), you , but thoses places, especially on bikes like yours are very well sealed. But, nice job man, like your bike!
this is and will always be THE BEST bike washing tutorial on the internet! haha i love it!!
at 8:00 A SQUIRREL appears :)
I thought my bike was clean... Now I have to clean it again! Thanks for the tips
is that GT 85 stuff the same as WD40?
Don't use WD40 on your bike.. get some oil thats made for it. The WD40 will ruin your bike.
unos10 what will wd40 do to your bike?
It will make your chain dry, meaning it will remove lubricant. It will leave the chain going metal on metal. It can be worse than no oil.
Also it has low viscosity, meaning its light and does not Work well on "fast" and "heavy" moving parts like engines and bike chains
ahh I understand now, just a quick one though could I put 2stroke engine oil into a oil can and put that inside the cranks and joints as it is thicker oil?
I don't mountain bike, I only have a road bike. I have to say that bike looks awesome. I really like the paint scheme too. Also good job on mentioning not to jet water into the important areas especially the bottom bracket, some people fail to mention it and why not to. Nice video, bike and tips.
having work stand does not determine a serious cyclist or not!...this vid is awsome tho!
More often than not any cyclist will have a bike stand. You can get one for about $70 which is a minor number compared to how much bikes costs
What a beautiful bike and an amazing cleaning technique! Awesome video man!
Good cleaning, but you can use some ECO friendly stuff ! ;)
CarbTheVeganUp , I mainly use Simple Green, which is biodegradable. Here is info on Simple Green: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner is readily decomposed by naturally occurring microorganisms. Simple Green meets the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development’s (OECD) requirements for ready biodegradability. ("Ready" biodegradability is the highest biodegradable classification that a product can achieve.)
Great video! I will suggest simple green crystal. I use it on my bikes and i believe is much stronger then the regular simple green. Sometimes you don't even have to use a brush to clean the drivetrain.
i just throw mine in a lake for and hour with a rope tied too it. Then pull it out and it all clean. Just kidding. Even if my old bike sets on the wall rack, it still get very dirty. My motorcycle has been setting for 2 months. It looks like i went riding in a mud pit.
Good video... I don't have a compressor or a hose, as I am an apartment dweller, but the bucket of soapy water with brushes and a towel in the laundry room over the drain hole works fine as well.. about the same amount of time. Though I am surely not as thorough as you are. Cheers my friend!
WOULD WD-40 WORK FOR LUBING THE CHAINS?
Do not use WD-40 on a chain. It does not make a good lubricant and will get your drivetrain very dirty. WD-40 does make some bike-specific products that look good but I have not tried them.
you can use wd40 for protecting your metal, screws and levers and tubes come to mind
Yep. I use WD-40 on a q-tip if I get rust inside a hex bolt.
Sorry this is late but WD-40 now makes lube for chains.
I use transmission oil for chains, works like a charm, and doesn't collect dust or other dirt. I recommend it to anybody, it lasts a long time
I had never thought about using compressed air for drying! Thanks about the idea!
There was few things that I'd do differently though:
-Do not "jet" the cassette or apply cleaning products directly to it when it's attached to the hub. There is chance of ruining bearings. If you want to clean it without taking it off, just give it quick brush. When you want it properly clean, just take it off.
-I personally prefer not using same brush for possibly oily surfaces and brakes.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing this. I have to replace my chain and cassette every year with all the riding I do but want to know how to clean the drive train at least on a monthly basis. Your video is all I need to get going on this.
This is a very useful video. I do not own a yard but i wash my bike in my tub. That worked pretty good so far for me, except that i was not using as many "tools" as you shown. Next time will give it a try. Thank you
@austinbprice, surface rust will usually happen on a chain and cassette if they are left wet, especially in more humid areas. If water is left inside bolts (like stem bolts) you'll also get surface rust pretty quickly. Soif a compressor is not used the chain and cassette should be dried with a paper towel or rag.
Great video Clint! ...my favorite part: your tip on NOT tracking grease into the house and pissing off the wife. priceless :)
I don't recommend lubing the stanchions. If you maintain your shock and fork properly the internal lube from the Fox float fluid will lube properly. Other lube can attract dirt which can work its way in the seals.
@Offtheheezay95, sealed bearings today are pretty durable. All you need to do to check is remove the wheels and turn the axle, checking for friction. If the bearings feel smooth with no hesitation or "crunchiness", you're good. If not, you can order Enduro bearings from your LBS or online, and they're not difficult to change. All this assumes you have sealed bearings. If they are loose bearings they all you need to do is repack them.
Mr. Fireworks, an air compressor is definitely not required. But once you have one you'll be surprised at how many uses you get out of it. Inflating tires as tubeless is probably the best uses. And blowing up my kids' pool floats is definitely high on the list.
Being fastidious means you've found your calling sir. Great video!
Every 3 or 4 months I'll drop the fork out and clean the headset bearings. With sealed hubs (Industry Nine) and sealed bottom bracket, those don't take any maintenance until they go out; then they're just replaced. I don't clean pivots unless they stop being smooth. It's a good idea every once in awhile to take the rear wheel off and undo a shock bolt to test the rear suspension for play and smoothness. If it's fine, don't worry about it.
@phatair360, I've never had a problem with dish soap damaging tires. It's only on the tires for a minute or so. Tires need to be replaced at the very longest once each year. If you're riding regularly a rear tire will wear out in 6-8 months. If you're worried about cleaning products on tires just spray them off with water since they'll get dirty on the next ride anyway.
@deeman7030, you don't need to lube the fork and shock. But you do need do air sleeve maintenance on the shock every 30-50 hours of riding and change the fork oil (including the float fluid) every 30-50 hours of riding. It's the float fluid that keeps the shock shaft and fork stanchions lubed.
That brings back memories of the velcro strips I had on my BMX bike. Definitely works.
Wear can be accelerated here in Florida because we have a lot of silicon in the soil. Which is why I also ride a SS about half the time for XC riding :)
I brought home a Specialized FSR epic expert carbon today from the store, it deserves a wash and clean everytime thanks for this video i apreciate it
@MrMCBvideo, you don't need to lube the suspension if you do the proper routine maintenance on the fox fork & shock (about every 30-50 hours of riding). The Fox Float Fluid that's used in the maintenance procedure provides the lube. In between the service intervals you just need to keep the stanchion tubes clean using isopropyl alcohol.
I've never had a problem getting contaminants on the brake pads when washing a bike. You do need to pay attention to the direction you spray. I mentioned in another reply that it's a good idea to get some brake cleaner and wipe down the rotors.
Andrew, I have not tried Mr. Sheen. I used to use furniture spray a long time ago but haven't recently. It's a good idea, especially if you ride in wetter conditions.
Holy crap Clint, a million and a half views! Awesome. I knew you had some popular bike video but no idea this big. Congrats bud.
I should have clarified in the video that if you have ANY grease on a brush then don't use it on the rotors. The brush I used was not used on a chain or pulleys but I didn't clarify that. Sorry. The best thing for the rotors is to put automotive brake clean on a clean paper towel and wipe them down.
As far as compressed air, I only use it on the chain, cable bosses, and bolts like on the stem. I don't use it directly on bearings for the reason you stated.
I leave 2 to 3 spacers when I cut my steerer tube so that I will have options for varying bar heights for different riding conditions. Cutting steerer tube is easy but I recommend a Park cutting guide. Remember that you'll need a star nut setter too. And of course if you're doing your own headset you'll need a crown race setter (you have to set it before you measure and cut the steerer tube) and a headset press. So it may be best to take it to a shop if you don't have all those tools.