Wow, awesome video. I have never cleaned my 5 yr old Kona close to this thorough and I am very excited to see what it could actually look like again. Thanks for posting.
So I've watched videos of a Craig Ferguson interview, a ship sinking, a bird get sucked into a jet engine, a bike tuning video, some sourcefed clips, and the majority of two football games online today... and this is still the best video I've seen. My ride's clean at this moment and I'm very tempted to re-clean. Thank you! And subscribed.
Clint thanks for all the MTB tips and videos. Very helpful! Leaf blowers work great for drying dirt bikes and mountain bikes for people without a compressor. I use a simple 24v battery powered blower.
I should have clarified in the video that if you have ANY grease on a brush then don't use it on the rotors. The brush I used was not used on a chain or pulleys but I didn't clarify that. Sorry. The best thing for the rotors is to put automotive brake clean on a clean paper towel and wipe them down. As far as compressed air, I only use it on the chain, cable bosses, and bolts like on the stem. I don't use it directly on bearings for the reason you stated.
+William Smith, you do not have to lube the shocks. This gets done when doing the routine air sleeve maintenance (rear shock) and oil change (front shock). +Asim dahal, this is the same cleaning method I use on both my mountain bikes, my cyclocross bike, and my road bike.
but the oil helps to prevent corrosion, especially on lower end forks. i believe it will not boost performance, just keep the seals lubricated. also nice vid. i can get it down for about 12 mins. here's a quick tip for everyone. if you have time, clean the casette with the same solution you used to clean the bike. it adds a nice shine.
Cint, thanks for the video. But I didn't understand - you don't have to lube the front and rear shocks never? Or is it some part of a routine you should do once in a while?
No, you don't Lube the shaft/stanchions of the shock or fork. That would attract dirt. The lube comes from the Fox Float fluid that is inside. If you do the routine maintenance like you're supposed to they will always have enough lubricant.
Clint, thank you for a quick response! May I ask what exactly do you mean by "the routine maintenance like you're supposed to"? Can you maybe reference me to a video on the subject? Subscribed :-)
Jonathan, many times a chain will rust if allowed to air dry so I would at least dry it with a rag or paper towel. You'll also get some rust inside bolts like stem & water bottle holder bolts. I recommend that you towel dry the bike as much as possible. But leaving some water on to dry isn't going to hurt. I live in Florida where the humidity is extremely high in the summer so water tends to sit much longer than in an arid environment. That's why I use a compressor like I do.
I used to be an avid mountainbiker and was a cleaning freak just like you. I had to quit racing because of health issues, so now just ride for recreation. Back then I used the exact same routing when cleaning my bikes, except for the compressed air because I didn't have a compressor. And yes, my bolts did rust... Now I am very less fanatic about cleaning. And it does wear out faster now that it has gunk all over it, despite being used less hard... Really good video, thx for putting it online!
Thank you. Simply thank you. I watched both "clean" videos & I was able to wash both my bikes - my new (to me!) road bike & mtn bike, which, to my chagrin, I realized as I was washing today I have not washed since buying her earlier this year! Most of the equipment I was able to get @ my local $1 store, and I used an old toothbrush to get in the chain & gear areas. What a difference! Still learning here, but thanks to you, felt like I knew what I was doing!
@Offtheheezay95, sealed bearings today are pretty durable. All you need to do to check is remove the wheels and turn the axle, checking for friction. If the bearings feel smooth with no hesitation or "crunchiness", you're good. If not, you can order Enduro bearings from your LBS or online, and they're not difficult to change. All this assumes you have sealed bearings. If they are loose bearings they all you need to do is repack them.
Nice video. I think it's a good idea to bag the rear break disk and calliper when cleaning the drive train. Keep the breaks nice and crisp and free from contamination.
Terrific demonstration video. I very much liked how you showed each item used in the cleaning process at the outset for those of us needing to make a shopping list. Well Done!!!
I owe you a beer, Gibbs. Just got into the sport, and taking care of my investment is a big deal to me. Glad we're on the same page, and happier that you made a video about it. Cheers, bro.
@MrMCBvideo, you don't need to lube the suspension if you do the proper routine maintenance on the fox fork & shock (about every 30-50 hours of riding). The Fox Float Fluid that's used in the maintenance procedure provides the lube. In between the service intervals you just need to keep the stanchion tubes clean using isopropyl alcohol.
@PhoenixShipYard, you can certainly do that. Honestly I usually forget until after I have cleaned the bike. But I've found that the gunk is so thick it stays clumped together and doesn't contaminate the clean bike so either way will work.
@vickedslava, if you clean the chain last you'll spray all the oil and dirt that accumulates on the chain onto the frame. If you're concerned about the dirt from the frame getting on the chain, just spray the chain off one more time after the cleaning is over.
@deeman7030, you don't need to lube the fork and shock. But you do need do air sleeve maintenance on the shock every 30-50 hours of riding and change the fork oil (including the float fluid) every 30-50 hours of riding. It's the float fluid that keeps the shock shaft and fork stanchions lubed.
Great vid, only tip is to say what products are as brand names (like clean green) aren't useful to people who don't live in the same country, needed to google to find out what it was. Other than that great guide, thanks for making it.
Adrian, I make sure water isn't forced into the bearings. When I use the "stream" or "jet" mode on the nozzle I usually only use that on the chain and directly on the cassette (not at an angle, which could force water into the bearings). My Industry Nine wheels are over 3 years old and the bearings are still very smooth. Use a light spray (like "shower" mode) on the frame, and maybe something in between for things like derailleurs. I've been cleaning bikes like this for 15 years with no issues
I am just getting into bicycling touring. I am commuting to work in order to train and encounter all kinds of weather. I really appreciate your very informative video and have added this cleaning regime to my maintenance schedule. Thank you!
@shadowcreaper, it does take care to make sure your spray doesn't go near the brake pads & rotors, but it can be done. I've been doing this for 10 years or more with no issues. I definitely recommend a drip lube for the chain instead of a spray lube, for that reason. As I've mentioned in several comments I recommend spraying some auto brake cleaner or putting isopropyl alcohol on a clean paper towel and wiping down the rotors when done, which I didn't show in the video.
Great video. This method works very well. I could not find my attachment for my air compressor, so I ended up using my shop vac (blower part) and it worked great!
i am new on this and just thinking on cleaning the bike takes more than 15 min. you are brilliant!!! after you explain it, peace of cake !!! thanks for taking the time bro!!! saludos from Puerto Rico!!!
I use a light setting on the nozzle, something like a shower, or even mist if you're worried about water penetrating pivots or bearings. This is no different from rain on your bike. If a bike is covered in mud (obviously mine wasn't in this video). There is simply no way of getting the bike clean without water. But yes, you must use care and not go crazy with a jet setting or any water forced in places you don't want it.
Cole, here are places you don't want to spray directly with a stream of water: hubs, headset and bottom bracket. The things to lube after cleaning are the chain, pedals and derailleurs. You can also lube the derailleur cables but you need to know a few tricks to do that. I lube my chain every ride or every other ride.
Nice job there. But where I live the bike trails are crushed limestone and all that effort would be wasted in about 5 seconds on the trail. That "kitty litter" stuff is just awful and gets in everything on a bike. The most effort I might spend is cleaning the chain, and the rest just gets a quick wipe-down since it'll get caked again without even trying. A wash at this level might be done only once or twice a year such as before garaging the bike for the winter.
@Kwang RongPhotos, Prolink is a great lubricant. I don't use dry lubes because they don't last very long. They take more care when applying, too. I put lube on my chain before most rides and just being able to drip it on and go is more practical for me.
Connor, if you spray the chain with water after cleaning it with simple green then it will be fine. I always recommend a chain-specific cleaner but they can be more expensive so simple green is great for people on a budget.
@darentpainter09, those are Shimano XTR pedals, and the bike is a Niner Jet 9 RDO (2012). Niner just redesigned the aluminum Jet 9 which looks like a great bike too.
Getting water in that bottom bracket is a straight killer of bikes and incredibly easy with a high pressure washer. It sucks, but you have to rinse the chain and the main chain drive with rinses and scrubs, like was done here in the video. You cannot high pressure spray anything around the main drive. Got to be gentle with it, since it's basically the engine of the bike.
@austinbprice, surface rust will usually happen on a chain and cassette if they are left wet, especially in more humid areas. If water is left inside bolts (like stem bolts) you'll also get surface rust pretty quickly. Soif a compressor is not used the chain and cassette should be dried with a paper towel or rag.
Jakob, yes this technique works very well for a race bike. The bike in the video was my XC race bike (which has been replaced by an Orbea OCCAM 29er since then). Cleaning frequency is totally dependent on the conditions but you don't want to go more than a dozen rides or so without cleaning the drive train. Clean after a muddy or wet ride for sure. I can go 6-8 weeks in the winter without cleaning the bike (I ride through the winter). In the summer I might have to clean every week due to rain.
I take my bike to a hand wash car wash. I power wash THE WHOLE bike. The fear of getting water-especially in a sealed bottom bracket is near impossible with todays bottom brackets and is impossible with completely sealed bottom brackets. I rotate the derailleur while spraying, which removes crud from it and the pulleys. I get home and spray acetone(finger nail polish remover) on the bike(technique I learned to dry flasks in my organic chem classes!). Then I use air from a scuba tank to dry the bikr. Lube as necessary. I've taken of bottom brackets after YEARS of doing this and they are still encassed in grease.
How long did it take using the carwash method and did you only use one setting? Might it be okay to use the extra settings like the degreaser one? Peace ?_?
ahh I understand now, just a quick one though could I put 2stroke engine oil into a oil can and put that inside the cranks and joints as it is thicker oil?
@WarpedDimensions, no, you don't need to clean after every ride. I would clean the drive train after every dozen rides or so. I've heard from people that ride in dusty areas a lot that they use an air compressor to blow dust off the bike after a ride. I would take a rag or paper towel with a little bit of degreaser (like Simple Green) and wipe down the chain (spinning the pedals backwards) and then lube the chain after every ride.
@Zeroskillet, if your seals are good and you use something gentle like a shower mode (i.e. don't jet the seals with a stream of water) then water will not get into the fork tubes. The seals are designed to keep mud and water out in wet and rainy rides as the stanchions move up and down. So cleaning with gentle water is perfectly fine.
@phatair360, I've never had a problem with dish soap damaging tires. It's only on the tires for a minute or so. Tires need to be replaced at the very longest once each year. If you're riding regularly a rear tire will wear out in 6-8 months. If you're worried about cleaning products on tires just spray them off with water since they'll get dirty on the next ride anyway.
Do not use WD-40 on a chain. It does not make a good lubricant and will get your drivetrain very dirty. WD-40 does make some bike-specific products that look good but I have not tried them.
Luis, sometimes I will spray the cassette with simple green and hose it off before starting the chain. Yes, I should do the pulley wheels first but I forget a lot of the time. In the end, it doesn't make too much of a difference though. Regarding pressure on the cassette, if you go directly on it with a stream of water you won't get water in the freewheel. But you do have to be precise about it.
honestly i was thnking of buying a bike and i want to start riding, although im a beginner and there is a long way till i actually get a bike, this is better than watching porn ..
Wow, that's more than I paid for my bike. Amazing how specialized life has become, even to wash a bike now uses up more resources than some small third world country. Nice vid though
I use dishwashing liquid, soft soap, a sponge, a stiff brush and my bathtub. (Because i live in a suburb area and can't get oil everywhere) Chain i get with the brush (same as the chain cleaner but a bit messier and requires some more soap) I let it air dry for a few minutes and then i use a dry rag or whatever on everything. Spray some 5-56 or equivalent on derailleurs, sprockets and chain. Let it dry up and finish off with chain lube. DONE! The expensive bit here is the stand and the air compressor. Both which you can easily do without.
Usually you have either time or money. He most definately has the latter. I can do it pretty quickly, though without that fancy stuff, albeit I usually don't get my bike that dirty since I drive long but relatively clean tours.
@TyroleanCubeBiker, complete Niner Jet 9 RDO's here in the states range from $5,400 to $8,700, so that sounds about right. They are great bikes and ride really well. I've heard of a few here cracking around the bottom bracket but Niner has a great warranty program. My XC bike now is an Orbea OCCAM 29er which has become my favorite XC bike of all times. I would recommend either one.
Bike shops don't do squat in my experience. They wash the frame with soap. The crud is even still in the jockey wheels when you get it back. They never do what they are supposed to for actual bikes that get used. They do casual job for casual riders, no more no less.
@FantmVirus, if you do oil changes in your fork at the recommended intervals (every 30-50 hours of riding) you don't need to lube the stanchions of your fork. In fact putting some kind of lube on them can attract dirt which can work its way into the fork seals.
@lachie - I would not use anything on the chain except a bicycle-specific chain lube. Wax-based lubes are clean but come off in an hour. Pro Link is just the best one I've found that's a good balance between long-lasting and not getting too gunky.
@idiwa, I really don't wipe off excess lube. I try to just put enough on that I need. Your chain may stay cleaner if you wipe excess off, but I just don't do it. I've also used furniture polish on frames with good results. It actually puts a wax coating on it too.
I liked your video man! Well done, but , I do not hink that spraying water on the crank or hubs will get water in it. It's maybe because you're a neet "freak" (In a good way), you , but thoses places, especially on bikes like yours are very well sealed. But, nice job man, like your bike!
A very well done movie - thank you! All over the world bikes get muddy, and all over the world there is a wife not happy with the oily mud under your feet when the bike is clean and the sole of your shoe is filthy - I love your comment on this!
CarbTheVeganUp , I mainly use Simple Green, which is biodegradable. Here is info on Simple Green: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner is readily decomposed by naturally occurring microorganisms. Simple Green meets the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development’s (OECD) requirements for ready biodegradability. ("Ready" biodegradability is the highest biodegradable classification that a product can achieve.)
Wear can be accelerated here in Florida because we have a lot of silicon in the soil. Which is why I also ride a SS about half the time for XC riding :)
This is a "I'm getting ready to give my bike a photoshoot" type of clean up. Very thorough, nice video! Personally, I just rinse off with a hose, wipe the drivetrain clean (getting the stuff that didn't come off in the spray), dry, and relube chain. If I've got the time, I wipe down the bike after with a wet rag to get the stains off. That's a cleaning that I'll do for a weekly/standard maintenance.
i just throw mine in a lake for and hour with a rope tied too it. Then pull it out and it all clean. Just kidding. Even if my old bike sets on the wall rack, it still get very dirty. My motorcycle has been setting for 2 months. It looks like i went riding in a mud pit.
@NiRoAtom, take an old toothbrush, spray the chain and/or brush with degreaser, and, while spinning the cranks backwards, scrub the top, bottom and sides of the chain. You will have to spray degreaser one or two more times on the brush. Takes about a minute and will be almost as clean as using a chain cleaner. Don't forget to spray the chain off with water, dry it and lube it.
I typically run Aspens on my FS 29er and love them. I used the Ignitor on the front when the trails are really dry and slippery but typically I just run Aspens front and rear. The Ardents are my favorite for rougher terrain.
Thanks for the video! I'm just getting back into biking to lose weight and rode my bike more in the month of June than I have rode in my life. My bike is extremely dirty right now and plan on using this as a guide to get it cleaned today
@ErichSig, I find the ProGold lasts the longest of any lube other than a wet lube. I used Finish Line Wet last weekend at a mud race and it works well; you just get a lot of gunk build-up that has to be cleaned off the derailleur pulleys and the chain rings. But I agree, it does last a long time!
Pretty dirty? That bike is clean compared to mine. $5 bike from a garage sale, been through mud, sand, salty water, dirt. Never been washed, owned for 4 years. That's what I call a 'dirty' bike, and that's why I clicked on this video... Hahah, helped heaps! Cheers
Dave, I've never had an issue with Simple Green. I dilute it in the spray bottle about 4:1 for components, and about 2:1 for the chain cleaner. Pedros is a better product but it's more expensive. I mainly use Simple Green on the drive train and derailleurs.
Thanks for this video. I had not really cleaned my new bike very well since I got it. I followed the video step by step and my Norco Threshold Cross is sparkling. Got the Park chain cleaner and brush...worked awesome. Thanks very much!!!
Eric, I've posted a few comments after making the video that I recommend wiping the rotors with a paper towel sprayed with automotive brake cleaner after cleaning the bike. But to answer your question, soap will not affect the braking if it is washed off the rotors before riding.
Great video! I will suggest simple green crystal. I use it on my bikes and i believe is much stronger then the regular simple green. Sometimes you don't even have to use a brush to clean the drivetrain.
@freshlecher, paint thinners will strip a chain of all lube and make it brittle. I used it years ago in a chain cleaner on a new chain. The chain broke a week later. Also, Simple Green is better for the environment than paint thinners.
@ArmatekGaming, most of your bike will not rust leaving water on it. But if you clean the chain properly you'll remove a lot of the oil which means if you don't dry it with something (at the very least a paper towel) and reapply lube then it will get some rust on it. If you don't have compressed air at least towel off your bike. You will also get rust inside the allen bolts, like on the stem if you, if you leave water in them.
I'm not sure what Mr. Proper is, but you can clean the frame with a small amount of dish washing soap in water. For the chain if you can't find something like Simple Green (found here in the U.S.), look at bicycle chain cleaning solution from companies like Finish Line, Park or Pedros.
I've never had much of a problem with that. If that's a concern I'd go with Shimano pedals and use the multi-release cleats (sold separately) which release every direction but straight up.
Ayden, the fork and shock are lubed when doing the oil change and air sleeve maintenance. Putting oil on the stanchions and shock shaft will attract dirt which could work its way into the seals. If you service your fork and shock as Fox recommends then you should be fine. I have a video on how to do air sleeve maintenance on the shock and how to change the oil in a Talas fork.
@darkidiots56, yes, the purpose of the video is to show people how to use a hose. I agree, if you just blast away with a water hose then it could be detrimental. But with care a precision using a hose and proper cleaning technique can save a lot of time. If had to hand clean my bikes with my work and family schedule they wouldn't get cleaned when they needed, and that could be bad too.
Wow, awesome video. I have never cleaned my 5 yr old Kona close to this thorough and I am very excited to see what it could actually look like again. Thanks for posting.
So I've watched videos of a Craig Ferguson interview, a ship sinking, a bird get sucked into a jet engine, a bike tuning video, some sourcefed clips, and the majority of two football games online today... and this is still the best video I've seen. My ride's clean at this moment and I'm very tempted to re-clean. Thank you! And subscribed.
Clint thanks for all the MTB tips and videos. Very helpful!
Leaf blowers work great for drying dirt bikes and mountain bikes for people without a compressor. I use a simple 24v battery powered blower.
I should have clarified in the video that if you have ANY grease on a brush then don't use it on the rotors. The brush I used was not used on a chain or pulleys but I didn't clarify that. Sorry. The best thing for the rotors is to put automotive brake clean on a clean paper towel and wipe them down.
As far as compressed air, I only use it on the chain, cable bosses, and bolts like on the stem. I don't use it directly on bearings for the reason you stated.
+William Smith, you do not have to lube the shocks. This gets done when doing the routine air sleeve maintenance (rear shock) and oil change (front shock).
+Asim dahal, this is the same cleaning method I use on both my mountain bikes, my cyclocross bike, and my road bike.
but the oil helps to prevent corrosion, especially on lower end forks. i believe it will not boost performance, just keep the seals lubricated. also nice vid. i can get it down for about 12 mins. here's a quick tip for everyone. if you have time, clean the casette with the same solution you used to clean the bike. it adds a nice shine.
Cint, thanks for the video. But I didn't understand - you don't have to lube the front and rear shocks never? Or is it some part of a routine you should do once in a while?
No, you don't Lube the shaft/stanchions of the shock or fork. That would attract dirt. The lube comes from the Fox Float fluid that is inside. If you do the routine maintenance like you're supposed to they will always have enough lubricant.
Clint, thank you for a quick response! May I ask what exactly do you mean by "the routine maintenance like you're supposed to"? Can you maybe reference me to a video on the subject? Subscribed :-)
ruclips.net/video/yZBiq0wuhU4/видео.html
Jonathan, many times a chain will rust if allowed to air dry so I would at least dry it with a rag or paper towel. You'll also get some rust inside bolts like stem & water bottle holder bolts. I recommend that you towel dry the bike as much as possible. But leaving some water on to dry isn't going to hurt. I live in Florida where the humidity is extremely high in the summer so water tends to sit much longer than in an arid environment. That's why I use a compressor like I do.
I don't have an air-compressor as you do, but I use an electric leaf blower to dry off those hard to dry places on my bike.
I used to be an avid mountainbiker and was a cleaning freak just like you. I had to quit racing because of health issues, so now just ride for recreation.
Back then I used the exact same routing when cleaning my bikes, except for the compressed air because I didn't have a compressor. And yes, my bolts did rust... Now I am very less fanatic about cleaning. And it does wear out faster now that it has gunk all over it, despite being used less hard...
Really good video, thx for putting it online!
Thank you. Simply thank you. I watched both "clean" videos & I was able to wash both my bikes - my new (to me!) road bike & mtn bike, which, to my chagrin, I realized as I was washing today I have not washed since buying her earlier this year! Most of the equipment I was able to get @ my local $1 store, and I used an old toothbrush to get in the chain & gear areas. What a difference! Still learning here, but thanks to you, felt like I knew what I was doing!
Thanks for the comment. Glad I could help you!
@Offtheheezay95, sealed bearings today are pretty durable. All you need to do to check is remove the wheels and turn the axle, checking for friction. If the bearings feel smooth with no hesitation or "crunchiness", you're good. If not, you can order Enduro bearings from your LBS or online, and they're not difficult to change. All this assumes you have sealed bearings. If they are loose bearings they all you need to do is repack them.
Nice video. I think it's a good idea to bag the rear break disk and calliper when cleaning the drive train. Keep the breaks nice and crisp and free from contamination.
Terrific demonstration video. I very much liked how you showed each item used in the cleaning process at the outset for those of us needing to make a shopping list.
Well Done!!!
I use a leaf blower vac to dry my motorcycle and it works great. I'm sure it would work on a bike also. Thanks for posting.
Used to do that for my car now I just do the windows and hit the freeway usually.
I bought a road bike last week and was a little concerned about the maintenance. But not any more! Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
I owe you a beer, Gibbs. Just got into the sport, and taking care of my investment is a big deal to me. Glad we're on the same page, and happier that you made a video about it. Cheers, bro.
If you are ever in Gainesville, Florida I will take you up on it!
If u r serious about maintaining and cleaning check out his other cleaning video.
@MrMCBvideo, you don't need to lube the suspension if you do the proper routine maintenance on the fox fork & shock (about every 30-50 hours of riding). The Fox Float Fluid that's used in the maintenance procedure provides the lube. In between the service intervals you just need to keep the stanchion tubes clean using isopropyl alcohol.
This video is great. Very informative. Thanks so much for doing this video.
@PhoenixShipYard, you can certainly do that. Honestly I usually forget until after I have cleaned the bike. But I've found that the gunk is so thick it stays clumped together and doesn't contaminate the clean bike so either way will work.
like the use of a inner tube as a chain protector
@vickedslava, if you clean the chain last you'll spray all the oil and dirt that accumulates on the chain onto the frame. If you're concerned about the dirt from the frame getting on the chain, just spray the chain off one more time after the cleaning is over.
I can’t afford a compressor so I use the wife’s hair dryer instead. Stick it on cold setting and it works a treat 🤙🏼
@deeman7030, you don't need to lube the fork and shock. But you do need do air sleeve maintenance on the shock every 30-50 hours of riding and change the fork oil (including the float fluid) every 30-50 hours of riding. It's the float fluid that keeps the shock shaft and fork stanchions lubed.
Great vid, only tip is to say what products are as brand names (like clean green) aren't useful to people who don't live in the same country, needed to google to find out what it was. Other than that great guide, thanks for making it.
+Monsta Munch Who the hell told you to live in BFE? Oh, no you had to google something. Are you going to be ok?
Monsta Munch ezan khan
Clean Green is a mild degreaser. Find that.
Adrian, I make sure water isn't forced into the bearings. When I use the "stream" or "jet" mode on the nozzle I usually only use that on the chain and directly on the cassette (not at an angle, which could force water into the bearings). My Industry Nine wheels are over 3 years old and the bearings are still very smooth. Use a light spray (like "shower" mode) on the frame, and maybe something in between for things like derailleurs. I've been cleaning bikes like this for 15 years with no issues
best video on the topic that I have seen. Thanks a lot.
I am just getting into bicycling touring. I am commuting to work in order to train and encounter all kinds of weather. I really appreciate your very informative video and have added this cleaning regime to my maintenance schedule. Thank you!
"Cars are so yesterday, bikes are the future!"
Viva La Bicycletta!
Agreed!
@@sammyjjoo imagine replying to someone who was commenting this video 6 year ago lol
@shadowcreaper, it does take care to make sure your spray doesn't go near the brake pads & rotors, but it can be done. I've been doing this for 10 years or more with no issues. I definitely recommend a drip lube for the chain instead of a spray lube, for that reason. As I've mentioned in several comments I recommend spraying some auto brake cleaner or putting isopropyl alcohol on a clean paper towel and wiping down the rotors when done, which I didn't show in the video.
Great video. This method works very well. I could not find my attachment for my air compressor, so I ended up using my shop vac (blower part) and it worked great!
The way 🚦 dddss
Hr
i am new on this and just thinking on cleaning the bike takes more than 15 min. you are brilliant!!! after you explain it, peace of cake !!! thanks for taking the time bro!!! saludos from Puerto Rico!!!
Minute 8:00 a squirrel going up the roof :D
Eduard Louis Butnaru yep
Amazing!
Eduard Louis Butnaru that's a big rat
8:01 to be exact
Hey look a squirrel! lol
I use a light setting on the nozzle, something like a shower, or even mist if you're worried about water penetrating pivots or bearings. This is no different from rain on your bike. If a bike is covered in mud (obviously mine wasn't in this video). There is simply no way of getting the bike clean without water. But yes, you must use care and not go crazy with a jet setting or any water forced in places you don't want it.
Mention: Dont do this in direct sunlight, it will dry whatever you washed in seconds...
Also canned air works if you dont have a $500+ air compressor.
Cole, here are places you don't want to spray directly with a stream of water: hubs, headset and bottom bracket. The things to lube after cleaning are the chain, pedals and derailleurs. You can also lube the derailleur cables but you need to know a few tricks to do that. I lube my chain every ride or every other ride.
Nice job there. But where I live the bike trails are crushed limestone and all that effort would be wasted in about 5 seconds on the trail. That "kitty litter" stuff is just awful and gets in everything on a bike. The most effort I might spend is cleaning the chain, and the rest just gets a quick wipe-down since it'll get caked again without even trying. A wash at this level might be done only once or twice a year such as before garaging the bike for the winter.
That brings back memories of the velcro strips I had on my BMX bike. Definitely works.
I live in Georgia, so your 'pretty dirty' is my 'I'm just going down the road to a friends,back in an hour' xD lol
I ride in Georgia quite a bit. I love the trails around Blue Ridge. Trust me, my bike has gotten quite dirty up there!
+Clint Gibbs the red clay down south is a pain to clean though...
But makes for great trails and dirt roads when dry!
+Clint Gibbs that's true,to bad it been raining a lot lately
Life in the South.
@Kwang RongPhotos, Prolink is a great lubricant. I don't use dry lubes because they don't last very long. They take more care when applying, too. I put lube on my chain before most rides and just being able to drip it on and go is more practical for me.
Simple Green as in the all purpose cleaner?
Yes. It's a biodegradable degreaser that's readily available in the United States.
yup I thought it was a super cleaner bought it turns out no better than a regular dawn dish soap
Connor, if you spray the chain with water after cleaning it with simple green then it will be fine. I always recommend a chain-specific cleaner but they can be more expensive so simple green is great for people on a budget.
I just started riding.
I live in the desert so after my first bike ride, my bike was covered with dust. Do I have to clean it after every ride? :\
WarpedDimensions just clean the suspension sanctions and you’ll be good!
@darentpainter09, those are Shimano XTR pedals, and the bike is a Niner Jet 9 RDO (2012). Niner just redesigned the aluminum Jet 9 which looks like a great bike too.
Good video but only for those who lives in his own house and has a lawn)
Yeah a fellow biker ruined his bottom bracket with a pressure washer, too. Rusty!
I have an old school street pump right in front of my apartment, so I take the bike on the sidewalk and wash it there.
Don't mind people watching.
Getting water in that bottom bracket is a straight killer of bikes and incredibly easy with a high pressure washer. It sucks, but you have to rinse the chain and the main chain drive with rinses and scrubs, like was done here in the video. You cannot high pressure spray anything around the main drive. Got to be gentle with it, since it's basically the engine of the bike.
MrGoodkat pressure washers kill bikes... full sus mtbs have even more bearings for you to degrease with pressure... trust me I learned the hard way...
@austinbprice, surface rust will usually happen on a chain and cassette if they are left wet, especially in more humid areas. If water is left inside bolts (like stem bolts) you'll also get surface rust pretty quickly. Soif a compressor is not used the chain and cassette should be dried with a paper towel or rag.
Yes a squirrel 8 min mark on fence and then goes on roof
Jakob, yes this technique works very well for a race bike. The bike in the video was my XC race bike (which has been replaced by an Orbea OCCAM 29er since then). Cleaning frequency is totally dependent on the conditions but you don't want to go more than a dozen rides or so without cleaning the drive train. Clean after a muddy or wet ride for sure. I can go 6-8 weeks in the winter without cleaning the bike (I ride through the winter). In the summer I might have to clean every week due to rain.
I take my bike to a hand wash car wash. I power wash THE WHOLE bike. The fear of getting water-especially in a sealed bottom bracket is near impossible with todays bottom brackets and is impossible with completely sealed bottom brackets. I rotate the derailleur while spraying, which removes crud from it and the pulleys. I get home and spray acetone(finger nail polish remover) on the bike(technique I learned to dry flasks in my organic chem classes!). Then I use air from a scuba tank to dry the bikr. Lube as necessary. I've taken of bottom brackets after YEARS of doing this and they are still encassed in grease.
How long did it take using the carwash method and did you only use one setting? Might it be okay to use the extra settings like the degreaser one?
Peace
?_?
Those are Maxxis Aspen tires. They're a very fast and surprisingly stable tire. They also do great tubeless.
is that GT 85 stuff the same as WD40?
Don't use WD40 on your bike.. get some oil thats made for it. The WD40 will ruin your bike.
unos10 what will wd40 do to your bike?
It will make your chain dry, meaning it will remove lubricant. It will leave the chain going metal on metal. It can be worse than no oil.
Also it has low viscosity, meaning its light and does not Work well on "fast" and "heavy" moving parts like engines and bike chains
ahh I understand now, just a quick one though could I put 2stroke engine oil into a oil can and put that inside the cranks and joints as it is thicker oil?
I respect people, who care about their own stuff. Glint, you're good owner!
8:00 da çatıya sincap çıkıyor
@WarpedDimensions, no, you don't need to clean after every ride. I would clean the drive train after every dozen rides or so. I've heard from people that ride in dusty areas a lot that they use an air compressor to blow dust off the bike after a ride. I would take a rag or paper towel with a little bit of degreaser (like Simple Green) and wipe down the chain (spinning the pedals backwards) and then lube the chain after every ride.
SQUIRL ON THE ROOF BEHIND HIM AT 8:00
@Zeroskillet, if your seals are good and you use something gentle like a shower mode (i.e. don't jet the seals with a stream of water) then water will not get into the fork tubes. The seals are designed to keep mud and water out in wet and rainy rides as the stanchions move up and down. So cleaning with gentle water is perfectly fine.
I'll have to use my sister's hair dryer!
@phatair360, I've never had a problem with dish soap damaging tires. It's only on the tires for a minute or so. Tires need to be replaced at the very longest once each year. If you're riding regularly a rear tire will wear out in 6-8 months. If you're worried about cleaning products on tires just spray them off with water since they'll get dirty on the next ride anyway.
WOULD WD-40 WORK FOR LUBING THE CHAINS?
Do not use WD-40 on a chain. It does not make a good lubricant and will get your drivetrain very dirty. WD-40 does make some bike-specific products that look good but I have not tried them.
you can use wd40 for protecting your metal, screws and levers and tubes come to mind
Yep. I use WD-40 on a q-tip if I get rust inside a hex bolt.
Sorry this is late but WD-40 now makes lube for chains.
I use transmission oil for chains, works like a charm, and doesn't collect dust or other dirt. I recommend it to anybody, it lasts a long time
Luis, sometimes I will spray the cassette with simple green and hose it off before starting the chain. Yes, I should do the pulley wheels first but I forget a lot of the time. In the end, it doesn't make too much of a difference though.
Regarding pressure on the cassette, if you go directly on it with a stream of water you won't get water in the freewheel. But you do have to be precise about it.
honestly i was thnking of buying a bike and i want to start riding, although im a beginner and there is a long way till i actually get a bike, this is better than watching porn ..
Lol
And how'd it go?
Tony Eatinsky you got a bike yet?
Simple green for simple cleaning. Simple green is also the best car engine cleaner/degreser. Thanks Clint for the simple video. Cheers!
Wow, that's more than I paid for my bike. Amazing how specialized life has become, even to wash a bike now uses up more resources than some small third world country. Nice vid though
I use dishwashing liquid, soft soap, a sponge, a stiff brush and my bathtub. (Because i live in a suburb area and can't get oil everywhere)
Chain i get with the brush (same as the chain cleaner but a bit messier and requires some more soap)
I let it air dry for a few minutes and then i use a dry rag or whatever on everything. Spray some 5-56 or equivalent on derailleurs, sprockets and chain. Let it dry up and finish off with chain lube. DONE!
The expensive bit here is the stand and the air compressor. Both which you can easily do without.
Laifer Reyes yep , warm water , degreaser . wup liq , brush , sponge done . peace
Usually you have either time or money. He most definately has the latter. I can do it pretty quickly, though without that fancy stuff, albeit I usually don't get my bike that dirty since I drive long but relatively clean tours.
Just put it out in the rain, free cleaning.
@TyroleanCubeBiker, complete Niner Jet 9 RDO's here in the states range from $5,400 to $8,700, so that sounds about right. They are great bikes and ride really well. I've heard of a few here cracking around the bottom bracket but Niner has a great warranty program. My XC bike now is an Orbea OCCAM 29er which has become my favorite XC bike of all times. I would recommend either one.
Or, you take your bike to the bike shop and forget about all the bottles and brushes and chain cleaners...
Bike shops don't do squat in my experience. They wash the frame with soap. The crud is even still in the jockey wheels when you get it back. They never do what they are supposed to for actual bikes that get used. They do casual job for casual riders, no more no less.
@FantmVirus, if you do oil changes in your fork at the recommended intervals (every 30-50 hours of riding) you don't need to lube the stanchions of your fork. In fact putting some kind of lube on them can attract dirt which can work its way into the fork seals.
Don't have a wife ! That's why I got a bike !
@lachie - I would not use anything on the chain except a bicycle-specific chain lube. Wax-based lubes are clean but come off in an hour. Pro Link is just the best one I've found that's a good balance between long-lasting and not getting too gunky.
Find the squirrel at 8:00-8:04
@idiwa, I really don't wipe off excess lube. I try to just put enough on that I need. Your chain may stay cleaner if you wipe excess off, but I just don't do it.
I've also used furniture polish on frames with good results. It actually puts a wax coating on it too.
I like to keep my bike dirty. Kind of like a mud bogging truck. Shows character ;)
Lol i don't clean anything except my shocks :P
me too.. the main thing is the gears and chain. this guy overkills about 5 times. lol
lol, after you get scraped up in an injury, you should forgo showering, antiseptics, and antibiotics ... cuz it shows character ...
Sam Wong that makes no sense compared to what the original poster siad.
Kush Friendly Metaphors Kush, as they relate to what ***** said. Btw ... what poster lol
Those are actually XTR pedals. They're probably 5 years old or more but are still super smooth. I've only done bearing maintenance on them one time.
I liked your video man! Well done, but , I do not hink that spraying water on the crank or hubs will get water in it. It's maybe because you're a neet "freak" (In a good way), you , but thoses places, especially on bikes like yours are very well sealed. But, nice job man, like your bike!
A very well done movie - thank you! All over the world bikes get muddy, and all over the world there is a wife not happy with the oily mud under your feet when the bike is clean and the sole of your shoe is filthy - I love your comment on this!
having work stand does not determine a serious cyclist or not!...this vid is awsome tho!
More often than not any cyclist will have a bike stand. You can get one for about $70 which is a minor number compared to how much bikes costs
Great, I like the way you clean your bike: the chain first, and the frame afterward. Thanks
a lot!
Good cleaning, but you can use some ECO friendly stuff ! ;)
CarbTheVeganUp , I mainly use Simple Green, which is biodegradable. Here is info on Simple Green: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner is readily decomposed by naturally occurring microorganisms. Simple Green meets the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development’s (OECD) requirements for ready biodegradability. ("Ready" biodegradability is the highest biodegradable classification that a product can achieve.)
Wear can be accelerated here in Florida because we have a lot of silicon in the soil. Which is why I also ride a SS about half the time for XC riding :)
at 8:00 A SQUIRREL appears :)
This is a "I'm getting ready to give my bike a photoshoot" type of clean up. Very thorough, nice video!
Personally, I just rinse off with a hose, wipe the drivetrain clean (getting the stuff that didn't come off in the spray), dry, and relube chain. If I've got the time, I wipe down the bike after with a wet rag to get the stains off. That's a cleaning that I'll do for a weekly/standard maintenance.
i just throw mine in a lake for and hour with a rope tied too it. Then pull it out and it all clean. Just kidding. Even if my old bike sets on the wall rack, it still get very dirty. My motorcycle has been setting for 2 months. It looks like i went riding in a mud pit.
@NiRoAtom, take an old toothbrush, spray the chain and/or brush with degreaser, and, while spinning the cranks backwards, scrub the top, bottom and sides of the chain. You will have to spray degreaser one or two more times on the brush. Takes about a minute and will be almost as clean as using a chain cleaner. Don't forget to spray the chain off with water, dry it and lube it.
I typically run Aspens on my FS 29er and love them. I used the Ignitor on the front when the trails are really dry and slippery but typically I just run Aspens front and rear. The Ardents are my favorite for rougher terrain.
Thanks for the video! I'm just getting back into biking to lose weight and rode my bike more in the month of June than I have rode in my life. My bike is extremely dirty right now and plan on using this as a guide to get it cleaned today
@devinpardoe1, I actually sold the RDO and now I'm on an Orbea OCCAM 29er. I'll do a review on that soon and explain a little bit why I sold the RDO.
@ErichSig, I find the ProGold lasts the longest of any lube other than a wet lube. I used Finish Line Wet last weekend at a mud race and it works well; you just get a lot of gunk build-up that has to be cleaned off the derailleur pulleys and the chain rings. But I agree, it does last a long time!
Pretty dirty? That bike is clean compared to mine. $5 bike from a garage sale, been through mud, sand, salty water, dirt. Never been washed, owned for 4 years. That's what I call a 'dirty' bike, and that's why I clicked on this video... Hahah, helped heaps! Cheers
Dave, I've never had an issue with Simple Green. I dilute it in the spray bottle about 4:1 for components, and about 2:1 for the chain cleaner. Pedros is a better product but it's more expensive. I mainly use Simple Green on the drive train and derailleurs.
Billy, no, the shock and fork are lube when doing the air sleeve maintenance and oil change (every 30-50 hours recommended).
Thanks for this video. I had not really cleaned my new bike very well since I got it. I followed the video step by step and my Norco Threshold Cross is sparkling. Got the Park chain cleaner and brush...worked awesome. Thanks very much!!!
I brought home a Specialized FSR epic expert carbon today from the store, it deserves a wash and clean everytime thanks for this video i apreciate it
Eric, I've posted a few comments after making the video that I recommend wiping the rotors with a paper towel sprayed with automotive brake cleaner after cleaning the bike. But to answer your question, soap will not affect the braking if it is washed off the rotors before riding.
It's easier covering brakes with plastic
Great video! I will suggest simple green crystal. I use it on my bikes and i believe is much stronger then the regular simple green. Sometimes you don't even have to use a brush to clean the drivetrain.
this is and will always be THE BEST bike washing tutorial on the internet! haha i love it!!
@freshlecher, paint thinners will strip a chain of all lube and make it brittle. I used it years ago in a chain cleaner on a new chain. The chain broke a week later. Also, Simple Green is better for the environment than paint thinners.
@ArmatekGaming, most of your bike will not rust leaving water on it. But if you clean the chain properly you'll remove a lot of the oil which means if you don't dry it with something (at the very least a paper towel) and reapply lube then it will get some rust on it. If you don't have compressed air at least towel off your bike. You will also get rust inside the allen bolts, like on the stem if you, if you leave water in them.
I'm not sure what Mr. Proper is, but you can clean the frame with a small amount of dish washing soap in water. For the chain if you can't find something like Simple Green (found here in the U.S.), look at bicycle chain cleaning solution from companies like Finish Line, Park or Pedros.
@TheAnonyy, it's a 2012 Niner Jet 9 RDO frame with a custom build (mainly SRAM XO).
I've never had much of a problem with that. If that's a concern I'd go with Shimano pedals and use the multi-release cleats (sold separately) which release every direction but straight up.
Ayden, the fork and shock are lubed when doing the oil change and air sleeve maintenance. Putting oil on the stanchions and shock shaft will attract dirt which could work its way into the seals. If you service your fork and shock as Fox recommends then you should be fine. I have a video on how to do air sleeve maintenance on the shock and how to change the oil in a Talas fork.
A big thank you from Germany. Just started with mountain-biking and your video was very helpful.
@darkidiots56, yes, the purpose of the video is to show people how to use a hose. I agree, if you just blast away with a water hose then it could be detrimental. But with care a precision using a hose and proper cleaning technique can save a lot of time. If had to hand clean my bikes with my work and family schedule they wouldn't get cleaned when they needed, and that could be bad too.