Atari 5200 Fuzzy Video - Composite AV Mod - Fixing Ebay Junk
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Part 2 of my Atari 5200 series, I install a composite AV mod to bypass the failing RF Modulator. I use the schematics for the Atari 2600 AV mod in this job.
#RetroGaming #RetroRepairs #FixingEbayJunk #Atari
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Thanks for watching - Игры
Awsome video as usual very informative as always, just a quick thank u for all u show us, one thing I would have done tho with the power cable connection just for a little bit more protection id have put elec tape between the 2 connections.
Oh yeah! New Retro Repairs!
Me: I need one of those desoldering guns!
*checks price*
Guess I don’t 🤣
You can buy one at Walmart, home Depot, target, or online for like $50 or less
There are manual desoldering pumps for cheap. Personally never used one, but definitely helps if you can’t afford the gun.
@RetroRepairs i recently got a broken snes and its giving me a black screen for all games ive tried do you have any tips on how to fix it?
A black screen to all games would mean the pin connector of the snes is either dirty, loose or just broken. You should open it and clean it and check the connections with your multimeter. If everything looks okay and it still doesn't work then you should replace it. Hope this helps good luck.
Great work, but a few criticisms. The supply connector should have had insulation between the leads, especially since you put heat shrink on top. A smaller heat shrink on hot would have helped with that.
The second is you effectively tied the board to the case. If you ever need to do work on it again, you'll either need to work in place or desolder the supply connection. A disconnect for power would make life easier down the road.
Finally, and not a criticism but more of a technique suggestion. In both cases of the connectors, you soldered them while in place. The composite connectors are removable, and could have been soldered out of the shell. You clearly didnt have a problem, but a small slip would have left a nice indentation on the shell. As for the supply connector, the aforementioned disconnect would have allowed for soldering while not attached to the shell.
Granted, it works and works for you. But anyone looking to do the same should consider this. Especially with the potential of a short on the supply connector.
I love this channel! I don't own any game console, but I like repairs and your detailed type of filming every step.
nice job. Just one thing i would have done differently. I would have used some {molex} connectors internally to separate the board easily from the shell.
The way you did it, you would have to de-solder the external plugs every time you want or need to remove the board.
Last video tho...
Atari 5200 No Power - Fixing Power Circuit and Power Mod - Fixing Ebay Junk - RUclips
ruclips.net/video/a3KMECRt6yc/видео.html
What was the final configuration of the video circuit you used, the 2N3904 or 2N2222?
So you could basically buy a 2600 A/V mod kit and remove the RF box from the motherboard and solder everything up like you did correct?
Good to see you back with the Atari !
This time you had got plenty of space, but in cases where you dont have as much I'd go for the 3,5 minijack solution. Its much smaller, and works the same way. A common solution in most of the handhelds from China with video output function. When there is a stereo audio you have to buy a specific one with 4 ports on it - sort of the type used in mobile phones, but in case of the system outputting mono only, you would be fine with a standart one you can buy everywhere. I'm planning to mod a Master System 2 this way, when I grab one next time - I prefer to leave mine in stock condition, because I'm that one weird guy who doesnt mind the RF connections haha.
Take care !
Next mission,show this to atari and tell them that they should,ve add a led and saperate power and video hookups instead,great mod🙏😁👍
Maybe a black nylon washer for that power input jack? Possible 2 in 1 of covering it up and possibly blending in a bit.
Just to verify, do you leave the leg off of R33 right above C10? or can you just remove that resistor completely?
You need a step bit set. For plastic a harbor freight set will do fine. Makes drilling holes for AV plugs easy and you can use the bit to clean the hole in the plastic. Since it has the next size up it'll clean the plastic burrs off. - Former AV tech.
Ready for another 40 years worth of use
"So I need to find a good ground location"
How about that massive ground plane running through the board? 😋
EDIT: Oh, for an alligator clip. That makes more sense 😅
Yeah, somewhere i can attach it to, for testing i could just hold it to the ground plane, but I'll need use of my hands
I don't fix games or anything, but I love watching your vid and learn how to do it.
As always very entertaining! Greetings from quarantine in germany. Stay safe
"Hey RUclips, What's going on"
A classic!
Do you do repairs for 5200? Mine won’t work for some reason
Those colors are beautiful, awesome work man.
Nice video, keep up the good work! And hello from Finland in lock down, bracing and waiting for the big waves to hit here. Keep safe..
Does anybody else want to rip out their hair every time he pronounces comp-a-zit? Dammit, it’s COM-POS-IT, just the way it’s spelled.
Loved this. Made it look easy! I have a 5200 that I tried to put the UAV mod on....and it fried the board. Had to buy a NOS 5200 2-port board from Best Electronics. Am hoping to get it AV/Modded one day.
Thank you for making this video! I have a premade stock of the atari 2600/7800 boards and didn't realize essentially the same procedure would work on the 5200. As for the controllers, I gave up and made a full set of smbaker's design. If you haven't checked them out they are wonderful and are what I use to play everything ( like I have a choice, lol )
Great videos on the Atari 5200. I have one from my childhood sitting in the basement, which is in need of some TLC. The power switch itself is stuck.
I was changing a power switch from my gba and the one I got didn't work. I'm assuming there's another problem with the board. Have you ever had any experiences with a gameboy advance where the power issue was the switch itself? I'd appreciate your feedback if you can give it. Thanks
Some of these old consoles were absolutely terribly designed. I personally would rather just use emulation rather than dealing with RF modulators and composite video. This is definitely the way to do it if you want to use one of these things on anything even remotely modern.
hi do you have a schematic for this mod??
Been looking into rgb modding a tv with a s-video jack that has more then 4 pins for rgb instead of 4 rca jacks. Make it like scart minus the audio.
i have a intellivision that the rf box has gone bad... wish there were some tutorials or info on modding them..
8-bit guy did one for the Intellivision II system, but in order for it to work, you have to keep the RF box connected inside! The RF box does some video processing that it needs. I don't know if it would work the same for the original Intellivision or not.
You'll never be able to calibrate the right colors on the LED tvs. Much more enjoyable on the CRT.
One downvote.. what the heck - get out 😠
Somebody was an Intellivision fan
@@RetroRepairs 🤣
Wow, a much simpler mod than the one I did for my 5200. I got mine from AtariAge and that one required a lot of different connections from the mainboard.
In 99% cases of RF based machines, you have got the video and audio outputs nearby the RF module
The 5200 really is a beast - saddens me that it was never released this side of the Pond! Great vid, looking forward to the next part.
Neat job looks tidy, now for those controllers, those awful controllers!!
Solder wick works quite good aswell when desoldering 😀
It can, sometimes some old systems like this can be stubborn working with wick. The desoldering gun will also recuce the time spent putting heat on the contracts, as these old PCBs can lift pads fairly easily
@@RetroRepairs oh yeah for sure, i think solderwick is alot more obtainable for most people than a desoldering gun
Excellent. That's how the Atari 5200s should've come from the factory. Just one thing I would've done differently is to mount the big power supply inside the unit and have just an AC power cord connect in the back.
Interesting idea. Normally I wouldn't want to go that route due to it just adding even more weight and heat into the console, but since this has a fairly unique adapter requirements, it could be easy to damage by using something like a NES adapter (the diode in power mod helps reduce the liklihood of this happening.)
Definitely another good video and a great step up from the terrible RF module.
Finally the video I was trying to get after your last atari 5200 vid.
What a great mod. And it looks like, at least from the outside, it's supposed to have those Jack's on it.
Very nice.
I don't understand why 3 av jacks since sound is mono
The mono sound goes through both the left and right channel.
This way there's no case where the left still be silent or something like that. It's not true "stereo", no.
@@RetroRepairs that's make perfect sense. Thanks
Great vid.
Inspires me to blow the dust off my old 5200.
Hi Adam you planning on modding all you're systems that only came out with rf to composite or higher resolution if possible?
Possibly. Ive still got a 2600 and turbografx that need the treatment
Huthut, you said nut
nice
🐨
Nice stuff.
Hey mate, hopefully you remember me. I've not had chance to do those games, unfortunately. It's not looking likely that i am going to. I don't like backing out of a deal but the year got very messy for me from the start. Hope you understand, major apologies
No worries, life comes first, hope things turn around for you.
@@RetroRepairs cheers pal, I wish you all the best.
5:41 7:30 that's a very specific thing u just say lol
Stupid question, but the fuzzy output couldn't have been from the two grounding points on the RF modulator not being soldered, could it?
No, since it was all one piece, it was properly grounded through the points that were soldered and i did verify that the box was grounded.
Composite video is fuzzy by nature of how it works. It's amazing the low quality we put up with back in the day.
Adam, don't you have a larger nozzle for your gun? I would think for the price of that thing it would come with more than one nozzle.
Nope, it just comes with the 1mm nozzle. Genuine replacement nozzles are quite expensive, And this is the first time I've needed anything bigger
@@RetroRepairs can confirm. I recently purchased the same model myself and was a little surprised with how little it actually included.
Very nice work, excited to see the controller repairs!
Great video. Please whats the name of that "desoldering gun", seems is better than the copper strip.
Hakko FR-301.
I did a video a while back unboxing it and testing it out. It's super useful, but does cost a fair bit.
Do you know of any decent non-Hakko desoldering guns?All of the ones I've seen are rated poorly.
Man, that gun noise was really loud hehehe
com POZZ zit
The Atari 5200 was just a stripped down Atari 400 computer. With some code patching for controller input, 5200 games will run on Atari 8-bit computers.
The Achilles' Heel of the system was its controllers. Very fixable, but also very frustrating.
I see you've never head a Canadian speak......
THANK YOU! Canadians talk weird.
Stay safe up there in good ole' Canada (my best brother/friend lives in SK) but really enjoying watching this. I'm quite impressed with your knowledge of how and where certain circuitry works, and looking forward to hopefully soon another vid regarding the controller(s) on this.
Thanks, stay safe as well wherever you're at.
Not sure when I'll be able to tackle the controller. I might need replacement parts, and not only are they expensive, but borders closed so i can't go pick them up from the u.s. either.
@@RetroRepairs I'm down in the state of Connecticut next to New York... so yeah, we're all shut down completely. Staying safe, so far, but yeah I totally understand the situation. Curious if there's anything else crazy you can figure out while we're all on lockdown? Always a good time watching the videos, makes me want to attempt some repairs of my own.
Crazy like what? Ive luckily got a big backlog of broken stuff so at least i can stay busy
@@RetroRepairs Good question... I'm not even sure myself 😅... maybe anything else quite frankly that you think is more broken "so-to-speak" than normal, other than the typical repairs. Although... I do have a few (I believe, can't remember) NES and N64 carts I'd totally send to you. XEXYZ for NES and Life Force for NES as well. N64 I think I have Off Road Challenge, which quite frankly I think just needs cleaning. All 3 came from my cousin, so...it doesn't surprise me.
I'll definitely keep an eye out. Id like to revisit my NES toploader soon if you happened to see part 1 and 2. Now that ive got some better tools and a test board, i think i can fix it.
great job again !
6:40 AtariAge forums have a lot of A/V mods and resources
They do, but all other systems have a nice all in one guide. There's minimal for the 5200 and i had to resort to incorporating multiple posts and steps as nothing really clearly documents the process
@@RetroRepairs Well at least now there's a video that walks you through it step by step :)
Well done!
Good stuff buddy!
Did you do this mode on nintendo 64 too?
You can, but there'd be no point. N64 supports Composite out of the box, all you need is a cable. There are RGB and even HDMI mods for the n64 which would be much better options
@@RetroRepairs yeah, rgb mode, got confused.
I want to do on my N64, a video will help me a lot.
Ah, yeah i haven't done an rgb mod to the n64. You do need decent soldering abilities, as everything is much smaller and finer to work with than you'd find on a 35 year old system like an atari.
I've been thinking of doing an hdmi mod at somepoint in the near future
A lot of people must not understand he's Canadian when they're listening to him. Pretty sad really.