Visually this is not a good video. All of the close ups are on you and they should be on the items in you hand so amateur Diys can clearly see them and what you're doing. I did not find it helpful, and started looking for other videos on how to stop a leaking hose bib.
Great content. I'm here because I have already ordered a repair kit. I have Prier frost-proofs which has a plastic packing nut that won't tighten anymore to stop it from leaking. It probably needs the packing to be replaced. The packing nut should be a metal in my opinion. I'm glad that I'm a jack-of-all-trades or I would be broke with all the home repairs that need to be done. I have training in auto mechanics, mechanical, plumbing, electrical, water, and wastewater treatment and even swimming pools thanks partly to my USAF training in Civil Engineering and also my past City employment, and I have since retired as a Utilities Director for a private community.
a thousand thank yous Roger! The first five minutes of this video just save me a trip to the hardware store the cost of a new frost free faucet and draining the water in the house to change it. I didn't need a repair kit I just needed to put the parts inside the vacuum relief cap back in correctly after they froze.
I did a bit of building and ground maintenance. Had 30+ cabins built in 1930s. Plumbing and electrical were updated and some modern appliances installed in the mid-2000s. The kitchen faucets chosen were to mimic what had been originally installed. I'm not sure of the technical name, but it was pretty simple. Single wall tap for H and C side, faucet was a J-Shape and the handle on top. We flipped washers, replaced them, replaced the valve seats and I would take corroded seats and give them second life with a fine metal file. Sometimes it's what you need to do when you don't have the parts. Worked like a charm. Amateur plumbing, electrical, locksmith, carpenter, etc. All learned by paying attention to people much more skilled than me and asking questions. Much respect
I was ready to replace my leaky spigot when I found this video. It turned out all I needed to do was tighten the handle. You saved me a lot of headaches. Thanks!
Great content, your presentation style is very easy to understand. One minor suggestion, It is difficult to see some of the small washer parts and the ends of the valve. A macro B-Roll shot of the end of the valve and seat would greatly help people not familiar with the valve parts. Great work!
Hi. Thank you. Your instructions were easy to follow and very helpful. The frost free was leaking from the vacuum breaker on the top. I could only find one kit in my area. Unfortunately the main piece had the wrong threads. So I replaced the float as it fit into the old main piece. Then swapped the old gasket out for a new one on the main piece...one layer of Teflon on the threads for good measure. Reseated it the faucet... one layer of Teflon on the top..replace the cap and woohoo no leak!! Easy Peasy!! :D
Don't use those here in Hawaii, but definitely brought back memories from when I installed plenty of those in Michigan, wow 12 years goes by fast, lol. Great video, very informative and very accurate. As always Mr Wakefield you are consistently helping others. A down to earth and genuinely a good person. Thank you for that.
@@josephdurish2315 nice, I grew up in Detroit, pretty much lived all over Wayne County. Detroit, Dearborn, East Dearborn, Westland, Redford, Livonia, and yes I even lived in good ole Taylor, 🤣. I'm sure I missed a few, but for the first 32 years of my life I was Detroit/ Metro Detroit. Wouldn't trade it for anything, 1. It's a good place to be from 2. Its a great place to learn plumbing. 🤙🏽💯🇺🇲
@@Harloha Michigan is definitely a great place to learn plumbing. I once heard that if you are a licensed plumber in michigan, then you are also certafied to do plumbing in any other states for the most part. Not sure how true that is but makes sense because all the weather change in michigan.
Thanks so much Roger for the great video and instructions. The 'new' frost free faucet on my 'brand new' home was leaking at vacuum breaker top and with your help saved me from calling the plumber. Appreciate the detail and explanation in your video. All your videos are informative and thorough. Thanks again!
Thanks! I was getting ready to repack or replace the frost free but just tightening the nut stopped the leak. I was lucky with the valve and lucky to have found your video. Sent you a few bucks.
Can't get a plumber out for a month. That's how backed up they are this spring. Very happy I came across this video. I ordered a vacuum breaker repair kit from Amazon and will do it myself. Saved me time and money. Thank you Roger!
Thank you for the needlenose tip. Had a rogue o-ring that fit to replace my worn out rubber washer. The pool is filling no trip into town necessary. Thanks again!
Thank You Roger for your great advice!! I live in S. California.. I just change out hose bibs because 1. I can not separate the hose bib to get to washer 2. If I do separate the hose bib I stripe out the screw holding the washer. The new hose bibs are harder to repair verse a 30 or 40 year old hose bib because of quality in my opinion..Keep up the good work Roger & I look forward to your next teaching video!!
As a homeowner, when I had to change mine, the hardest thing was figuring out how to measure it for size. I did not know if i was supposed to measure just the stem or the whole thing. I ended up ordering it 2 or 3 times til I got the right size. Then I just changed the entire stem and left the rest of the enclosure as it was since it is soldered on. Mine is an obscure brand too. I think McDonald or something like that. The label on the twist valve has long worn off. Since then i am very careful not to over tighten it when shutting off the water. Good info here Roger.
after watching your great video.....just went out and checked faucet....tightened the nut behind the handle.....fixed ...no more leak ...so happy i had to post a thankyou...h 6 7 22
I wasn't sure if I wanted to tackle this hose bib problem, but after watching your informational, I am doing it myself and saving hundreds of dollars! Thank you!
Mine was leaking from behind the valve handle. I bought a repair kit before inspecting in case it was a bad washer and I wasn’t able to get it back in working order as we use water for our plants every day almost. Well, it turned out the repair kit was only for the top bit that releases air. At that point, I had the handle off and removed the other bit behind the handle where I didn’t see any washers anyway. I reinstalled and tightened the nut bit behind the handle, hoping that tightening it would stop the leak. So far, so good.
Homeowner here, usually just change out the silcock bc it's cheap enough. Probably have changed 4 or 5 on my old house (before I smartened up and started unhooking hose and turning off water in winter lol). Unfortunately our new house has the silcock soldered in 🤦🏻♀️ and that's just annoying to deal with lol. Thanks for the tips! I'm sure it's not cracked this time (access in basement), so I'll check the other things out, appreciate it!
Thank you!! Did I know what a vacuum breaker was? Nope. Did I know that alone had a kit that could be replaced? Nope. But now I have one on the way and will be replacing it as soon as it arrives as that is exactly what is leaking on mine. Your video is excellent. Very informative and helpful!
I have some neat old vintage plumbing tools including valve seat grinding kits that go back to the days of fixing stuff rather than just throwing it away & replacing it. Usually the piece with the seat surface is a soft brass alloy or possibly just cheap zinc die cast, which was junk when it was new. Brass resurfaces easily, and with my kit the seat surface is usually better than new. One grinder has teeth and the finish grind is a fine grit stone.
@Roger Wakefield. Thanks for the tips on repairing these frost proof faucets. The only suggestion I have is before tightening a bonnet nut, open the stem or valve first. I've had the stem get really tightened against the seat after tightening the bonnet nut. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Thank you VERY much for your awesome video! I can fix anything on a car, but when it comes to plumbing and construction I’m a complete moron. Had a leak from my frostproof in the front of the house from the packing. First 40 seconds of the video gave me the fix.
So, I replaced the washer and the faucet still leaked. I then watched your video, took the faucet apart again, and realized that the surface with the writing on it was facing the seat. Found another washer and also used your advice about the grease. Problem solved! Thanks for taking the time to make this video for us simple folk.
I watch all of your videos. You would be surprised at how much in die cast maintenance plumbing Is essential. I fix leaking pipes all the time. With complex hydraulics, oil cooling, and water lines. We run copper lines sometimes too.
I have a frost proof in my barn and I tried to replace it but it looks like they cut it to a custom length. Your tips and someone else’s show me how I might be able to fix it without a full replacement.
Thanks so much!!! This video helped me understand the parts and how to repair. Now I can go outside and find out what brand of frost proof vacuum breaker that I have & order same. My only confusion is about shutting off or not shutting off the water, for this repair, in the cellar. Guess I will shut the water off to be safe. Thanks again!
Thank you for the detailed video along with the wonderful attitude that you've displayed. You're a real professional who's willing to teach/show individuals who WANT TO LEARN. I do want to apologize if during one of your live talk/feedback shows if I ruined your surprise for the homeowner who had concrete thrown down her drain by the previous plumber. When you had mentioned about putting in an electric outlet near her new toilet, I had instantly threw out a guess that you were going to install a really B.A. bidet that needed an outlet to function. I don't even know if you did a follow up video. So, if I offended you or ruined the surprise, I do apologize.
This is more than helpful as I have a frost free faucet that is dripping when turned on. It is on the back side though where the copper meets the head, so I will be looking to replace it
I have changed out a bunch of the washers before... the hardest part I had was getting the new one seated! Also changed out a sink tap seat... they were easy to do!
Hey Roger, thanks for the video.. I live in Dallas area and just had my outdoor spigot flood my house. I guess the freeze a week ago had caused it to bust and a few days later I had my fence stained and the crew had a water hose hooked to it causing my house to flood.. Thanks for the video Sir, and go Cowboys!!
Fabulous video. Wondering if there’s a simple way to know whether the vacuum breaker needs to be replaced vs. the entire frost free faucet. We had water spraying out of the cap and backflow into the house. I’m gonna try the breaker first.
As a homeowner, the biggest problem I had was not watching this video first! I ended up breaking the handle off from the rod by overtightening it with channel lock pliers when the water wouldn't shut off (the plier method let me turn off/on the water about 3 times before the snap). Now I need to cut a hole in the drywall of my bedroom closet to get to the other end of the Frost Proof and replace the entire thing!
hi great presentation and very through too. I have a leak on my Nebco 90 faucet (12in) behind the valve somewhere. When I turn on the water I hear it falling behind the wall somewhere into my crawl space, the water sound stops once I turn the valve off. I believe that we have a crack in the copper, as we left the hose connected one year during winter. I removed the stem, packing nut, etc, and tried to turn the entire faucet with a wrench turning left, but I gave up fearing I might turn it too much and brake it, as it would not give an inch. I am unable to verify if the anti siphon was threaded into the fitting behind the wall. I assume that it was threaded into the pipe into the house, and not welded, as there is no easy access point for a plumber. What would you advise i try? thanks in advance for your knowledge.
Nice video! You covered everything except my leak. My frost free faucet leaks out of a hole in the faucet handle stem. Especially when the hose end sprayer is off and the water on. (...creating back pressure) Gary
Great video Roger. I have a frost-free faucet (I think) Anyway it has that little screw on cap at the top of the faucet. Just wondering if that should be kept screwed on tight or not. Thanks.
I'm not a plumber, not even a homeowner but if Roger wants me to know how to fix a leaking frost proof faucet, god damn it I'll learn how to fix a frost-proof faucet
BUT, you'll know more than my neighbor who's hose bib washer split (so he couldn't shut it off once it was turned on) and he left it running for a whole weekend because no plumber was available to come by... I was away at the time (not a plumber but I would have helped him) and he tried to put a garden hose on it but the washer from the hose was missing (another homer simpson DOH'! moment) so it was spraying water all over the house and getting in behind the sidnig, so they just let the hose blast away through the back yard. Bet they wished they had watched a few videos like this rather than watching movies and playing games...
i also use tape and dope. the plumber i worked for, who taught me this, when questioned about it would say if you have a belt on and suspenders your pants sure aint gonna fall down,
Hi great video! Both our faucets leak at the handle when we open the valve (hose attached), but don't leak when it's turned off. I've tried replacing the washer inside the long stem, but that hasn't worked, and I've tried tightening the lock nut too. Any other ideas of what to check?
my frost proof was dripping so I found your channel...i turned off water to stop drip and I removed outside nut but the rod doesnt pull out ...i didn't want to yank on it just in case something else holds it in but one thing i noticed about the faucet handle is it only turns a quarter turn to go on or off...not the usual 3 or 4 turns to draw the valve into the seat....i know this is the design of the faucet but is there a snap ring or other retaining device used to stop the long valve from pulling out of the pipe tube...the model is not fully spelled out but there is a big "M" on it with a triangle on top of it and "S" and "O" on it with a 42 and F14 on it...made in Taiwan...pretty sure my guy got it at Home depot or Lowes...thanks and I am now subscribed.....PS, one thing i did find out was the retaining nut was loosened by had but the sillcock was dripping out of the faucet and not the handle...maybe I fixed it by tightening it but the removal of the long valve still interests me...thks
I moved to a house and for the first time had a frost free faucet that was leaking from the top. It was the Oring that was broken. I got a thicker one than that came with it since it just didnt have enough meat on it to last. I happened to have a spare o-ring in my stuff that was thicker, so it sealed better. I will admit I miss my old house where I could see all this in the basement and not worry about hidden leaks and drips in the wall
I live in MA and have never had a FFF. I can see why they'd be beneficial, but even in years where I've forgotten to remove the hose and it has frozen up, I've never busted a bibb. I guess it's more about the recessed water line, keeping that from freezing. I must not have had enough of a draft coming through to freeze the line.
Excellent video, I have the frost proof anti siphon sill cock valve and it leaks where the water hose connects to the faucet. I can't turn it off, the handle keeps turning and turning. I can eventually get to a spot where it almost drops dripping but not quite. The slightest turn of the handle and it leaks even worse than I have to tun the handle till I find the sweet spot again but it still leaks. I put a two way hose connector on it that has two separate shutoff valves and that's how I got it stop leaking but that's not good for winter time. Do I need to replace the entire faucet or is there a repair for a handle that won't stop turning when shutting off? Thank you again for the great video.
Love the video, but I fell even before the first hurdle. The screw holding the handle on was so rusted in that I ended up shearing it off (despite copious WD40). The weird thing is that even though the whole screw head come off, complete with its flange, the handle was still secured fast (I expected to it just fall off). I would drill the rest of the screw out but..while their is stopcock inside the house just before the faucet connection to isolate it, that stopcock also shows signs of copper corrosion and is also stuck fast, so I have to shut the water off for the whole house to work on this. Time to call a professional!
If water is leaking from the spicket, could I put a cap on to see it through the winter? Just noticed the leak today (had a hose connected all summer). Don't need to use the faucet until springtime. P.S. leak is steady but not gushing. Was wondering if the water would backup and go into wall. Thanks
By far the worst part of my first experience replacing one of these, was the fact the pipe in the wall wasn't strapped down and I could tell I was beginning to twist the pipe rather than unscrew the fitting. Of course the wall it was inside of had a kitchen cabinet on one side and the master bath crapper blocked access on the other... Friggin awesome! Obviously pulling the toilet was the way to go. One it was out I luckily guesstimated the length of the unit and cut the access in the wall right at the joint. The second tough part was finding a 10" unit that was made in the goid ole USA... Obviously the big box stores were no help! After poking around locally, I finally got online and researched who, if anyone made them here and luckily Arrowhead still did (at the time anyhow but not so sure anymore) so I ordered one up. Having to wait for it meant my overly optimistic self, who decided to yard the old part out, figuring a quality new one would be easy to come by locally had to cap off the line. The rest was pretty straightforward, though I did learn of a great product and a slightly different way of sealing the threaded connection. A friend, who is a really real plumber was over when I... or actually more like he installed it. He gave it a good wrapping of teflon and then whipped out a container of Rectum... er Rector Seal #5 and added a good coating of that. Since then (15yrs ago) I've used that same two product method every time and have yet to have a single issue with leakage.
Great video! My frost free faucet drips water after it's closed. I tried to replace washer inside. I can loose the nut that holds the stem to the body of the tap but I'm not able to pull out the stem. Is there any trick to pull it out? Thanks
I had a leak coming out of the handle, but If I really turned the handle hard I could stop the leak, or at least get it down to a slow drip. I pulled the stem out and noticed the last inch or so was a little larger, and there was a cone shaped rubber seal. After looking at pictures of different stems I think it's what they call an Arrowhead stem. I meant to replace that rubber piece too, but I bought the wrong one, so when I got home I convinced myself I didn't need to replace it. While at the hardware store a lady that worked there, said, "You need a #00 washer." Well the original washer was pretty flattened and spread out it looked a lot bigger than the #00 washer, so I thought, "That's not big enough." I bought a #0 washer and of course when I got home and tried to put it in it was too big. Also, when I tried to remove the screw to remove the washer I noticed the whole seat assembly was turning and when I put needle nose pliers on it to hold it the end seemed to freely move in and out of that larger end of the stem. I was afraid I'd broken it. As it turns out I had a whole package of #00 washers, so I didn't even need to go to the hardware store. I replaced the #00 washer, put plumbers grease on the cone-shaped piece of rubber, the new washer and also on the "O" ring at the handle end of the stem and put everything back together. To my amazement, when I turned the water back on there wasn't any leak and of course it was a lot easier to turn off the water at the faucet now. Thanks for the video.
That's exactly what happens to me EVERY SINGLE TIME I try to repair something. I have to go at it at least 3-4 times, in the meantime I already bought half a dozen parts that don't fit. Hdepot loves me.
I have a question the Brass Anti-Siphon Valve this winter again frozen/burst pipe. To change it is not so easy because the plumber used tin to seal the pipe. can I fix the back yard faucet doing DIY? Thanks
If you are new, Watch this entire thing... Some things mentioned very late in the video are needed at the very start. NO idea why I watched this, but I did, lol. Can't believe he talked for 16 minutes, but he did lol.
Thanks for the video. Helpful information. I do have a question. On the first faucet, looks like a Proflo, can the stem be removed like you showed on the second faucet? Thanks.
Is there a tool to remove the valve seal if it breaks free from the stem? I tried putting pressure/water behind it (and it’s in open position). Only think else I can think to try is to take a really long drill bit and try to make contact enough to finish pulling out. Would really like to avoid cutting a hole in my living room wall to change out the whole thing.
I had one bulge and break right where the washer was... thinking it's because a hose was left connected.... it came down the wall in the basement (finished)... and then had to rip out the entire drywall and repair it. I am glad I knew where the shutoff was for the tap.
I don't know how to tell if mine is a freeze proof or just a normal faucet. But I can push the knob in and the water pressure pushes the handle back out. It leaks where the knob goes into the housing. I have replaced washers but don't know if I got the right size. Should I use some packing or just get a new set up?
Why do you need one with the vacuum breaker on top, example the one at :53 vs the style at 2:30. I have 3 of with the vacuum breaker on top around my house but is it necessary to have those? Why couldn't I use the one's you started off showing at :53? Thank you.
Mr. Wakefield, thanks. I understand that ASSE 1019-A is a standard used for plumbing parts, but to get the correct vacuum breaker kit I need the model number. The only number I see is located under the ASSE 1019-A, and it's 2890-with some kind of shield looking thing. On the other side are the letters N.W. Where might the model be? In the wall or something? Appreciate it.
I've got to replace a freeze proof outdoor faucet, what is the best brand/model to get for replacement, 10-12" freeze proof. Don't mind spending a few extra bucks to put in a good one. Want one i can replace parts on if needed. This one didn't last 3 years on new home. This one drips from faucet, i've already replaced washers and guts. TIA
If you can't access the piping from the inside will it hurt the copper piping when you try to unscrew the frost proof anti siphon from the outside with a pipe wrench ?
Im in a votech high school for plumbing and we watch your videos in shop all the time. Best RUclips plumber!!!
Wow, thanks! I appreciate that!
Isn’t that in Cumberland ??
@@RogerWakefieldIf that's not a great endorsement, nothing is!
@@RogerWakefieldgreat content. What would a repair like this typically run?
Visually this is not a good video. All of the close ups are on you and they should be on the items in you hand so amateur Diys can clearly see them and what you're doing. I did not find it helpful, and started looking for other videos on how to stop a leaking hose bib.
Great content. I'm here because I have already ordered a repair kit. I have Prier frost-proofs which has a plastic packing nut that won't tighten anymore to stop it from leaking. It probably needs the packing to be replaced. The packing nut should be a metal in my opinion. I'm glad that I'm a jack-of-all-trades or I would be broke with all the home repairs that need to be done. I have training in auto mechanics, mechanical, plumbing, electrical, water, and wastewater treatment and even swimming pools thanks partly to my USAF training in Civil Engineering and also my past City employment, and I have since retired as a Utilities Director for a private community.
a thousand thank yous Roger! The first five minutes of this video just save me a trip to the hardware store the cost of a new frost free faucet and draining the water in the house to change it. I didn't need a repair kit I just needed to put the parts inside the vacuum relief cap back in correctly after they froze.
I did a bit of building and ground maintenance. Had 30+ cabins built in 1930s. Plumbing and electrical were updated and some modern appliances installed in the mid-2000s. The kitchen faucets chosen were to mimic what had been originally installed.
I'm not sure of the technical name, but it was pretty simple. Single wall tap for H and C side, faucet was a J-Shape and the handle on top. We flipped washers, replaced them, replaced the valve seats and I would take corroded seats and give them second life with a fine metal file. Sometimes it's what you need to do when you don't have the parts. Worked like a charm.
Amateur plumbing, electrical, locksmith, carpenter, etc. All learned by paying attention to people much more skilled than me and asking questions. Much respect
I was ready to replace my leaky spigot when I found this video. It turned out all I needed to do was tighten the handle. You saved me a lot of headaches. Thanks!
Great content, your presentation style is very easy to understand. One minor suggestion, It is difficult to see some of the small washer parts and the ends of the valve. A macro B-Roll shot of the end of the valve and seat would greatly help people not familiar with the valve parts. Great work!
Hi. Thank you. Your instructions were easy to follow and very helpful. The frost free was leaking from the vacuum breaker on the top. I could only find one kit in my area. Unfortunately the main piece had the wrong threads. So I replaced the float as it fit into the old main piece. Then swapped the old gasket out for a new one on the main piece...one layer of Teflon on the threads for good measure. Reseated it the faucet... one layer of Teflon on the top..replace the cap and woohoo no leak!! Easy Peasy!! :D
Don't use those here in Hawaii, but definitely brought back memories from when I installed plenty of those in Michigan, wow 12 years goes by fast, lol. Great video, very informative and very accurate. As always Mr Wakefield you are consistently helping others. A down to earth and genuinely a good person. Thank you for that.
What do you use in Hawaii
Very cool man, I still live in michigan
@@johnberkley1350 just regular hose bibbs.
@@josephdurish2315 nice, I grew up in Detroit, pretty much lived all over Wayne County. Detroit, Dearborn, East Dearborn, Westland, Redford, Livonia, and yes I even lived in good ole Taylor, 🤣. I'm sure I missed a few, but for the first 32 years of my life I was Detroit/ Metro Detroit. Wouldn't trade it for anything, 1. It's a good place to be from 2. Its a great place to learn plumbing. 🤙🏽💯🇺🇲
@@Harloha Michigan is definitely a great place to learn plumbing. I once heard that if you are a licensed plumber in michigan, then you are also certafied to do plumbing in any other states for the most part. Not sure how true that is but makes sense because all the weather change in michigan.
Thanks so much Roger for the great video and instructions. The 'new' frost free faucet on my 'brand new' home was leaking at vacuum breaker top and with your help saved me from calling the plumber. Appreciate the detail and explanation in your video. All your videos are informative and thorough. Thanks again!
That's gotta be the most informative plumbing video I've seen on RUclips. Thank you. I think you just saved me some cash.
Thanks! I was getting ready to repack or replace the frost free but just tightening the nut stopped the leak. I was lucky with the valve and lucky to have found your video. Sent you a few bucks.
Can't get a plumber out for a month. That's how backed up they are this spring. Very happy I came across this video. I ordered a vacuum breaker repair kit from Amazon and will do it myself. Saved me time and money. Thank you Roger!
A month?! Where are you located? Is there only one company?
@@RogerWakefield NE Ohio. There are other companies we can use but there's only one that I trust.
Thank you for the needlenose tip. Had a rogue o-ring that fit to replace my worn out rubber washer. The pool is filling no trip into town necessary. Thanks again!
I replaced a washer and the plastic cap gasket works like a charm, thanks for the info! probably saved $500.00
Thank You Roger for your great advice!! I live in S. California.. I just change out hose bibs because 1. I can not separate the hose bib to get to washer 2. If I do separate the hose bib I stripe out the screw holding the washer. The new hose bibs are harder to repair verse a 30 or 40 year old hose bib because of quality in my opinion..Keep up the good work Roger & I look forward to your next teaching video!!
As a homeowner, when I had to change mine, the hardest thing was figuring out how to measure it for size. I did not know if i was supposed to measure just the stem or the whole thing. I ended up ordering it 2 or 3 times til I got the right size. Then I just changed the entire stem and left the rest of the enclosure as it was since it is soldered on. Mine is an obscure brand too. I think McDonald or something like that. The label on the twist valve has long worn off. Since then i am very careful not to over tighten it when shutting off the water. Good info here Roger.
after watching your great video.....just went out and checked faucet....tightened the nut behind the handle.....fixed ...no more leak ...so happy i had to post a thankyou...h 6 7 22
I wasn't sure if I wanted to tackle this hose bib problem, but after watching your informational, I am doing it myself and saving hundreds of dollars! Thank you!
Excellent!
Thank you! All it took was a quarter turn just behind the handle. It was leaking just near the surface. Easy fix.
Mine was leaking from behind the valve handle. I bought a repair kit before inspecting in case it was a bad washer and I wasn’t able to get it back in working order as we use water for our plants every day almost.
Well, it turned out the repair kit was only for the top bit that releases air. At that point, I had the handle off and removed the other bit behind the handle where I didn’t see any washers anyway. I reinstalled and tightened the nut bit behind the handle, hoping that tightening it would stop the leak. So far, so good.
Have one of these outdoor faucet and the leak is coming from the handle. Thank you for the tips in this video.
Homeowner here, usually just change out the silcock bc it's cheap enough. Probably have changed 4 or 5 on my old house (before I smartened up and started unhooking hose and turning off water in winter lol). Unfortunately our new house has the silcock soldered in 🤦🏻♀️ and that's just annoying to deal with lol. Thanks for the tips! I'm sure it's not cracked this time (access in basement), so I'll check the other things out, appreciate it!
This video is so helpful to so many people! We get so many calls for dripping outdoor faucets. Thank you Roger!
Thank you!! Did I know what a vacuum breaker was? Nope. Did I know that alone had a kit that could be replaced? Nope. But now I have one on the way and will be replacing it as soon as it arrives as that is exactly what is leaking on mine. Your video is excellent. Very informative and helpful!
Wow glad I could teach you a few things! Let me know how that repair goes
I have some neat old vintage plumbing tools including valve seat grinding kits that go back to the days of fixing stuff rather than just throwing it away & replacing it. Usually the piece with the seat surface is a soft brass alloy or possibly just cheap zinc die cast, which was junk when it was new. Brass resurfaces easily, and with my kit the seat surface is usually better than new. One grinder has teeth and the finish grind is a fine grit stone.
Your video saved me a call to my plumber. Very simple and detailed. Thanks so much
@Roger Wakefield. Thanks for the tips on repairing these frost proof faucets. The only suggestion I have is before tightening a bonnet nut, open the stem or valve first. I've had the stem get really tightened against the seat after tightening the bonnet nut.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Thank you VERY much for your awesome video! I can fix anything on a car, but when it comes to plumbing and construction I’m a complete moron. Had a leak from my frostproof in the front of the house from the packing. First 40 seconds of the video gave me the fix.
So, I replaced the washer and the faucet still leaked. I then watched your video, took the faucet apart again, and realized that the surface with the writing on it was facing the seat. Found another washer and also used your advice about the grease. Problem solved! Thanks for taking the time to make this video for us simple folk.
Glad I was able to help you out
I watch all of your videos. You would be surprised at how much in die cast maintenance plumbing Is essential. I fix leaking pipes all the time. With complex hydraulics, oil cooling, and water lines. We run copper lines sometimes too.
Thank you for the advice on how to take care of a leaking faucet. You saved me a lot of money and stress 👍
Glad to help
I have a frost proof in my barn and I tried to replace it but it looks like they cut it to a custom length. Your tips and someone else’s show me how I might be able to fix it without a full replacement.
Thanks so much!!! This video helped me understand the parts and how to repair. Now I can go outside and find out what brand of frost proof vacuum breaker that I have & order same. My only confusion is about shutting off or not shutting off the water, for this repair, in the cellar. Guess I will shut the water off to be safe. Thanks again!
Thank you for the detailed video along with the wonderful attitude that you've displayed. You're a real professional who's willing to teach/show individuals who WANT TO LEARN. I do want to apologize if during one of your live talk/feedback shows if I ruined your surprise for the homeowner who had concrete thrown down her drain by the previous plumber. When you had mentioned about putting in an electric outlet near her new toilet, I had instantly threw out a guess that you were going to install a really B.A. bidet that needed an outlet to function. I don't even know if you did a follow up video. So, if I offended you or ruined the surprise, I do apologize.
The stem won’t pull out is it screwed in ? I did screw the knob off could that be it ?
I will definitely let you know when I get around to checking it out. I’m so glad I found your channel.
Great presentation full of information and free of babble or loud music. I’d like to suggest closeups of the parts you are working on. Thanks.
This is more than helpful as I have a frost free faucet that is dripping when turned on. It is on the back side though where the copper meets the head, so I will be looking to replace it
Thanks Roger for your information and video 📹 👍 I appreciate you 🙏 😊
I have changed out a bunch of the washers before... the hardest part I had was getting the new one seated! Also changed out a sink tap seat... they were easy to do!
Very informative, I appreciate this video. Thank you
Hey Roger, thanks for the video.. I live in Dallas area and just had my outdoor spigot flood my house. I guess the freeze a week ago had caused it to bust and a few days later I had my fence stained and the crew had a water hose hooked to it causing my house to flood.. Thanks for the video Sir, and go Cowboys!!
Fabulous video. Wondering if there’s a simple way to know whether the vacuum breaker needs to be replaced vs. the entire frost free faucet. We had water spraying out of the cap and backflow into the house. I’m gonna try the breaker first.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Wouldn’t the heat proof grease contaminate the water? Awesome video!!!
The quality of your videos are top notch wow
Nice job - very well done.
Thanks for this video. It was exactly what I needed to start diagnosing my frost free drip issue.
Thank you so much, really saving me a lot of legwork.
I wanted to be your 300,000th subscriber. I wasn’t, but you’ve got to be getting close. Keep up the great work. Congratulations!!! 🎉🍾
The biggest problem i had was watching this video to find the 1 minute that I actually needed to watch.
Right, these kinda videos drive me nuts
The story time makes me want to pull my hair out
As a home owner the biggest problem that I have with any faucet is the small screw shearing off due to corrosion.
Same. Could not even drill it out with a speedout bit. Had to buy a whole new inner unit.
@@George14215S
Cross-threading the faucet after changing the washer
As a homeowner, the biggest problem I had was not watching this video first! I ended up breaking the handle off from the rod by overtightening it with channel lock pliers when the water wouldn't shut off (the plier method let me turn off/on the water about 3 times before the snap). Now I need to cut a hole in the drywall of my bedroom closet to get to the other end of the Frost Proof and replace the entire thing!
Quick fix! Worked Great! Thank you very much!
Glad it helped!
Excellent presentation , information!! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
hi great presentation and very through too. I have a leak on my Nebco 90 faucet (12in) behind the valve somewhere. When I turn on the water I hear it falling behind the wall somewhere into my crawl space, the water sound stops once I turn the valve off. I believe that we have a crack in the copper, as we left the hose connected one year during winter. I removed the stem, packing nut, etc, and tried to turn the entire faucet with a wrench turning left, but I gave up fearing I might turn it too much and brake it, as it would not give an inch. I am unable to verify if the anti siphon was threaded into the fitting behind the wall. I assume that it was threaded into the pipe into the house, and not welded, as there is no easy access point for a plumber.
What would you advise i try? thanks in advance for your knowledge.
Great explanation. Thanks! A 00 washer fit my 15 year old NIBCO
Nice video!
You covered everything except my leak. My frost free faucet leaks out of a hole in the faucet handle stem. Especially when the hose end sprayer is off and the water on. (...creating back pressure)
Gary
Good instructions.
Great video Roger. I have a frost-free faucet (I think) Anyway it has that little screw on cap at the top of the faucet. Just wondering if that should be kept screwed on tight or not. Thanks.
so helpful thank you
I'm not a plumber, not even a homeowner but if Roger wants me to know how to fix a leaking frost proof faucet, god damn it I'll learn how to fix a frost-proof faucet
Facts
We’re all roger certified plumbers
BUT, you'll know more than my neighbor who's hose bib washer split (so he couldn't shut it off once it was turned on) and he left it running for a whole weekend because no plumber was available to come by... I was away at the time (not a plumber but I would have helped him) and he tried to put a garden hose on it but the washer from the hose was missing (another homer simpson DOH'! moment) so it was spraying water all over the house and getting in behind the sidnig, so they just let the hose blast away through the back yard. Bet they wished they had watched a few videos like this rather than watching movies and playing games...
We can get your point without the "gd".
i also use tape and dope. the plumber i worked for, who taught me this, when questioned about it would say if you have a belt on and suspenders your pants sure aint gonna fall down,
Hi great video! Both our faucets leak at the handle when we open the valve (hose attached), but don't leak when it's turned off. I've tried replacing the washer inside the long stem, but that hasn't worked, and I've tried tightening the lock nut too. Any other ideas of what to check?
thanks for the info it helped me fix my problem
Great to hear! How hard was it to do?
Great job! Thank you.
My pleasure!
Thanks a lot. Great helpful instruction.
nicely done
Thanks so much!! Great content
Super easy. Plumbing isn’t like making a NUCLEAR BOMB!!!!
I alway put black pipe tspe around copper barrel to protect from brick. Great video.
Thanks this info was exactly what I needed 😎😀
You need to move that microphone, as we can’t see WHAT you are doing. Plus you need close ups of what you are doing!
Thank you. I need to fix mine
you saved me hundreds of dollars!
Great video👍👍
my frost proof was dripping so I found your channel...i turned off water to stop drip and I removed outside nut but the rod doesnt pull out ...i didn't want to yank on it just in case something else holds it in but one thing i noticed about the faucet handle is it only turns a quarter turn to go on or off...not the usual 3 or 4 turns to draw the valve into the seat....i know this is the design of the faucet but is there a snap ring or other retaining device used to stop the long valve from pulling out of the pipe tube...the model is not fully spelled out but there is a big "M" on it with a triangle on top of it and "S" and "O" on it with a 42 and F14 on it...made in Taiwan...pretty sure my guy got it at Home depot or Lowes...thanks and I am now subscribed.....PS, one thing i did find out was the retaining nut was loosened by had but the sillcock was dripping out of the faucet and not the handle...maybe I fixed it by tightening it but the removal of the long valve still interests me...thks
I moved to a house and for the first time had a frost free faucet that was leaking from the top. It was the Oring that was broken. I got a thicker one than that came with it since it just didnt have enough meat on it to last. I happened to have a spare o-ring in my stuff that was thicker, so it sealed better. I will admit I miss my old house where I could see all this in the basement and not worry about hidden leaks and drips in the wall
I live in MA and have never had a FFF. I can see why they'd be beneficial, but even in years where I've forgotten to remove the hose and it has frozen up, I've never busted a bibb. I guess it's more about the recessed water line, keeping that from freezing. I must not have had enough of a draft coming through to freeze the line.
Excellent video, I have the frost proof anti siphon sill cock valve and it leaks where the water hose connects to the faucet. I can't turn it off, the handle keeps turning and turning. I can eventually get to a spot where it almost drops dripping but not quite. The slightest turn of the handle and it leaks even worse than I have to tun the handle till I find the sweet spot again but it still leaks. I put a two way hose connector on it that has two separate shutoff valves and that's how I got it stop leaking but that's not good for winter time. Do I need to replace the entire faucet or is there a repair for a handle that won't stop turning when shutting off? Thank you again for the great video.
Love the video, but I fell even before the first hurdle. The screw holding the handle on was so rusted in that I ended up shearing it off (despite copious WD40). The weird thing is that even though the whole screw head come off, complete with its flange, the handle was still secured fast (I expected to it just fall off).
I would drill the rest of the screw out but..while their is stopcock inside the house just before the faucet connection to isolate it, that stopcock also shows signs of copper corrosion and is also stuck fast, so I have to shut the water off for the whole house to work on this. Time to call a professional!
If water is leaking from the spicket, could I put a cap on to see it through the winter? Just noticed the leak today (had a hose connected all summer). Don't need to use the faucet until springtime. P.S. leak is steady but not gushing. Was wondering if the water would backup and go into wall. Thanks
Thank You Roger! Great Information!
By far the worst part of my first experience replacing one of these, was the fact the pipe in the wall wasn't strapped down and I could tell I was beginning to twist the pipe rather than unscrew the fitting. Of course the wall it was inside of had a kitchen cabinet on one side and the master bath crapper blocked access on the other... Friggin awesome! Obviously pulling the toilet was the way to go. One it was out I luckily guesstimated the length of the unit and cut the access in the wall right at the joint. The second tough part was finding a 10" unit that was made in the goid ole USA... Obviously the big box stores were no help! After poking around locally, I finally got online and researched who, if anyone made them here and luckily Arrowhead still did (at the time anyhow but not so sure anymore) so I ordered one up. Having to wait for it meant my overly optimistic self, who decided to yard the old part out, figuring a quality new one would be easy to come by locally had to cap off the line. The rest was pretty straightforward, though I did learn of a great product and a slightly different way of sealing the threaded connection. A friend, who is a really real plumber was over when I... or actually more like he installed it. He gave it a good wrapping of teflon and then whipped out a container of Rectum... er Rector Seal #5 and added a good coating of that. Since then (15yrs ago) I've used that same two product method every time and have yet to have a single issue with leakage.
Great video! My frost free faucet drips water after it's closed. I tried to replace washer inside. I can loose the nut that holds the stem to the body of the tap but I'm not able to pull out the stem. Is there any trick to pull it out? Thanks
I had a leak coming out of the handle, but If I really turned the handle hard I could stop the leak, or at least get it down to a slow drip. I pulled the stem out and noticed the last inch or so was a little larger, and there was a cone shaped rubber seal. After looking at pictures of different stems I think it's what they call an Arrowhead stem. I meant to replace that rubber piece too, but I bought the wrong one, so when I got home I convinced myself I didn't need to replace it. While at the hardware store a lady that worked there, said, "You need a #00 washer." Well the original washer was pretty flattened and spread out it looked a lot bigger than the #00 washer, so I thought, "That's not big enough." I bought a #0 washer and of course when I got home and tried to put it in it was too big. Also, when I tried to remove the screw to remove the washer I noticed the whole seat assembly was turning and when I put needle nose pliers on it to hold it the end seemed to freely move in and out of that larger end of the stem. I was afraid I'd broken it. As it turns out I had a whole package of #00 washers, so I didn't even need to go to the hardware store. I replaced the #00 washer, put plumbers grease on the cone-shaped piece of rubber, the new washer and also on the "O" ring at the handle end of the stem and put everything back together. To my amazement, when I turned the water back on there wasn't any leak and of course it was a lot easier to turn off the water at the faucet now. Thanks for the video.
That's exactly what happens to me EVERY SINGLE TIME I try to repair something. I have to go at it at least 3-4 times, in the meantime I already bought half a dozen parts that don't fit. Hdepot loves me.
Thanks!
Thank you!
You were dead right just fixed mine thanks saved me a bunch of work !!!
I have a question the Brass Anti-Siphon Valve this winter again frozen/burst pipe. To change it is not so easy because the plumber used tin to seal the pipe. can I fix the back yard faucet doing DIY? Thanks
Thank you I’ve learned so much.
You are so welcome!
Love your channel. Do all anti frost spigots squeak when turning them in and off? Is there any way to stop it.
If you are new, Watch this entire thing... Some things mentioned very late in the video are needed at the very start. NO idea why I watched this, but I did, lol. Can't believe he talked for 16 minutes, but he did lol.
Thanks for the video. Helpful information. I do have a question. On the first faucet, looks like a Proflo, can the stem be removed like you showed on the second faucet? Thanks.
Is there a tool to remove the valve seal if it breaks free from the stem? I tried putting pressure/water behind it (and it’s in open position). Only think else I can think to try is to take a really long drill bit and try to make contact enough to finish pulling out. Would really like to avoid cutting a hole in my living room wall to change out the whole thing.
I had one bulge and break right where the washer was... thinking it's because a hose was left connected.... it came down the wall in the basement (finished)... and then had to rip out the entire drywall and repair it. I am glad I knew where the shutoff was for the tap.
I don't know how to tell if mine is a freeze proof or just a normal faucet. But I can push the knob in and the water pressure pushes the handle back out. It leaks where the knob goes into the housing. I have replaced washers but don't know if I got the right size. Should I use some packing or just get a new set up?
Why do you need one with the vacuum breaker on top, example the one at :53 vs the style at 2:30. I have 3 of with the vacuum breaker on top around my house but is it necessary to have those? Why couldn't I use the one's you started off showing at :53? Thank you.
Mr. Wakefield, thanks. I understand that ASSE 1019-A is a standard used for plumbing parts, but to get the correct vacuum breaker kit I need the model number. The only number I see is located under the ASSE 1019-A, and it's 2890-with some kind of shield looking thing. On the other side are the letters N.W. Where might the model be? In the wall or something? Appreciate it.
Background music is 🔥
DMH
Mount the hose bib at 45 Deg, makes it easier to attach the hose!
I've got to replace a freeze proof outdoor faucet, what is the best brand/model to get for replacement, 10-12" freeze proof. Don't mind spending a few extra bucks to put in a good one. Want one i can replace parts on if needed. This one didn't last 3 years on new home. This one drips from faucet, i've already replaced washers and guts. TIA
Hands down the Woodford Model 17 CP-12. That is the 12 inch model. Amazon or Lowes
Another thing that I tend to do when replacing a washer, is install a bit of Loctite on the screw. This way it'll keep the screw from backing out
If you can't access the piping from the inside will it hurt the copper piping when you try to unscrew the frost proof anti siphon from the outside with a pipe wrench ?