Probably the best video I’ve seen about preparing woodwork for painting , great work mate! I use poly filler for deep holes 1st sand with 180 machine the fill with poly filler gloss filler and sand with machine 240,but I don’t build up the filler because it’s takes too long to sand normally spray oil based gloss
Thanks. I wanted gloss on my trim which is detailed. I decided to do it myself since I am good at painting and have a professional airless. However I was hung up on the prep especially the filling holes and what product to use. Thanks so much for your help. Only issues is the molding I have is a very detailed profile and sanding isn't straight forward. I don't want to sand down the profile so maybe a different easier to sand filler?
518 Painters Thank you very much. I finally just sprayed slow dry oil primer on everything downstairs today. 8.5 gallons with the 310fflp. So happy it's close to done, and results are looking good.
I'm impressed how much info you have share THANK YOU SO MUCH I'm technically new on this level of painting you have give me so much help keep on sharing
XC Painter I can tell you I learned even from the seconds it showed you taping and the use of a vacuum I had a bad experience spraying with out vacuum the floor and learn the hard way and find out on you're video thanks again
Great video! DIYer here. I wish others were as meticulous as you. Question: I want to repaint mdf stair risers. The surface has become almost bubbly. As I sand with 220, what if some of the brown paper gets small pinholes. Do I need to treat it with a special primer / sealant before painting?
Great Job.. I wish more home owners and builders would see this video.. Most of them want that quality of work but have no idea how much time and labor it takes.. They want Designer products at Walmart prices...
Great work man. I do a lot of the same kind of work and you are right there is painting and then there is next level painting. It helps to have good carpenters doing the installs or else our job becomes a lot harder Lol
You prep then spray millwork first, then bag off and do walls and ceilings? Or have you already sprayed walls and ceilings? I'm guessing walls are done because then when would you caulk the side of the window frame to the wall? Awesome videos, just found you channel and going through all your videos. Edit: also the 32 foot hose for the festool is the best purchase I've made
Thanks for the support and questions. On this project we had primed and painted all the drywall first... Sprayed and backroll primer on all drywall,24 hrs to dry, spray and backroll walls (eggshell). We then bagged walls and sprayed ceilings Flat). We caulk all trim to walls, let dry, and quickly paint that caulking the wall color before masking/taping walls off.
I did buy a 32 foot festool hose as well, 3-4 years back, and it's awesome when it's not breaking (at the middle or end connectors). I've had to put mine back together quite a few times now.
@@XCPainter Had to as well but it goes together pretty easy. Ever hit yourself in the nuts with the end of the electric cord while using the vaccuum with the 32 foot hose. That's my least favorite part of it.
We use a lot of Farrow and Ball paint in those houses. Also like to use Benjamin Moore regal and Advance. For cabinets and built ins. Genneral Finishes enduro and milk paint then topcoated with enduro poly . Super stuff and nice finish Hard to get oilbased paint. Here in south cali
Im filling holes on pre finished wood trim. A nail gun was used by the carpenter for the nails and how do I remove the raised swelled up nail holes on pre finished wood. Some of the holes are a pain to fill and sand lol. I can't get a perfect finish.
Great video. What oil primer is compatible with BM paints? I'm spraying some mdf cabinets. I'm thinking Advance is my best bet but not sure which primer to use...
Thanks. Benjamin Moore branded Fresh Start oil, general purpose oil would be good. Advance doesn't have the best adhesion, it's okay. With the oil primer, it would very best to make sure it's gassed off and cured before sanding, and even more before Advance goes on.
@XCPainter Thanks. I've been using Stix and Advance until I realized I should be using an oil primer on mdf. Any recommendations for a water-based finish for mdf builtins? I heard people use scuffx or Command also. 99% of my customers request BM colors. I have a Graco gx19 so not comfortable running any crazy solvents through there yet
@@joseph7105 honestly I'd look into a better coating for built ins... maybe Renner, Enviolak, or Centurion products ... you can search for distributors and they can help with the details and usage of their products.
Hey xc. I’ve ref’d this video a dozen times at least. Just wondering. You’re priming your preprimed milk pack after prep is completed. What’s your process on raw mdf when using a waterbourne system? If you ever do that. We don’t spray oil unless absolutely necessary. Would you preprime to seal and then prep and then prime again?
I rarely prime mdf with waterborne, but just happened to use it on my current job. Mdf sills and some finger-jointed pine trim, plus fiberglass doors. I used Stix bonding primer on the fiberglass, and used Miller Paint "Miller Prime" Enamel Undercoater on everything else. It sprayed on smooth and seemed to sand alright but I think nowhere as nice as lacquer undercoater or oil. Luckily I didn't have any mdf doors to do, because that's where the wb usually raises the "grain" the most. It didn't seal out any tannins or stain spots, and took extra effort to double coat raw areas... (on a higher end project I could see double priming, then sand everything with the waterborne primer.) ... it seemed like it took more passes with the gun, to get coverage, or I had to spray closer to the surface to lay it on wet.
Would do all prep, fillers, and caulking, then prime, hopefully having extremely little prep after that, or the glazing putty phase if that's planned for
Thanks brother for this video. Was searching around for some high end prep videos. Very thoughtful of you to take your time and make this video. One question... I can't find BM enamel undercoat in the UK. Any alternatives. Thanks
Thank you for the compliments. I'm not very familiar with the UK products but an oil enamel undercoater would be similar most likely. This product is a slow dry if that helps. It helps it level out and flow to a smoother finish without raising the wood grain.
We do those same steps. Great to see. But we use a product called One time and ready patch for holes and seems. Love your hose extension on your vacuum very efficient, I’m going to use that. For years I’ve talked all my builders into hand painting everything we do those same steps but use a 3/8ths microfiber roller and it looks like glass. I’m expanding and designer wants it sprayed, not our specialty but our high end prep work and Minimal experience shouldn’t be too hard of a transition? Any tips?
Greg Elliott Thanks for your feedback. Tips on doing your spray work: obviously vacuum all trim and floors before critical prep and spray steps, use brush attachments on vacuum, strainer bag the paint and use a fine mesh filter in the gun, 310 or 410 ff tip. Use floor paper instead of drop cloths whenever possible (easier to clean). When spraying, don't do slow passes with the gun. Faster passes with gun 8" away from work, and 50% overlap. Just throwing some tips out.
Do you primer your mdf with oil primer ones you prep work is done before you spray your top coats ? Or do you spray your topcoats and find no need for priming the mdf after the prep work.
One last question when your spraying your oil primer are you spraying it through a rac x low pressure fine finish 410 tip. If so does this require you to thin your oil primer ?
@@michaelcollister3873 good question. I thin oil primer with 10 - 15% of lacquer thinner. You can go more than 15 also, but 10 to 15 is good and add more if necessary. That will help it spray easier and with a nice fan pattern. I avoid using mineral spirits for thinning whenever possible. I used a Graco 410 fflp which does a nice job at medium - low pressure. 1300 -1600. I also like titan sc6+ purple at higher pressure. They push out more paint flow (production) but also possibly more overspray.
@@XCPainter thank you for the knowledge on the mdf its truely a art to get perfection.I have alot of mdf mill packs and its challenging product to bid and work on any knowledge like yours is saving extensive time and money . I see that you mask above your base boards and around your window caseing is this to prevent build up of your prime coat and top coats?
When spraying, after all prep is done and you spray prime. Lite sand before 1st coat? And after 1st coat just a wipe down basically with a glove? to make sure it’s clean, but if room was cleaned properly mite not be needed before final coat? Normally when hand painting we’d prime and prep sand 120 and then after 1st coat we sand 220 before final coat. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. Thanks Greg
Greg Elliott Hi, sorry for late reply. After prime is sprayed and dried, we would do a light sand with 220 or fine sanding sponge depending on primer used. Some primers require more sanding. Then everything gets vacuumed and cleaned, including floors of course. After first coat of paint is done we would check for any issues, like the rare run/sag or a little dust that got kicked up onto a baseboard or sonething minor. I prefer to not sand beteeen coats and usually everything is smooth and good so I don't have to. We only sand where needed (hopefully none) between topcoats. If not much was sanded, we would still do a quick vacuum on the trim, and all floors because of spray dust and debris from people walking around that day.
Fantastic job! I'm a painter who takes pride in his work and uses quality products. Have you experienced "swelling" after applying the wood filler to the MDF? Seems there is no product out there safe for MDF. Haven't tried the Elmer's, just MH ready patch. Found it hard to sand crown with delta sander...always sand by hand it seems. Have you used Festools Duplex LS 130 EQ for contours? What type of Festool abrasives do you use? Granat? Keep up the great vids! Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't noticed the mdf swell from the wood filler application. To make the Elmer's filler easier to sand for contours or just in general, you can mix in Crawfords vinyl spackle (any percentage you want.) Sometimes i have more crawfords in the mix, sometimes more Elmer's. I do own the LS130 but I haven't used it a lot. I've tried it on round handrail before but not crown molding. I wouldn't buy it unless really needed (or wanted). I don't think the ls130 will sand the intricate details like in the corners fully. I use the Granat since that is what or local stores carry and it is versatile.
@@XCPainter hey there. Just a question about your mixing the Elmer's wood filler with the Crawford's vinyl spackle paste. Did you find a performance issue with it compared to putting the wood filler first and then the Spackle paste as the second coat which I believe you did in your video. And I've heard people doing a 50/50 1 to 1 ratio as far as product amount. Your feedback is appreciated thank you
@@fateswarning129 I don't think there is any performance issue other than slight changes to it's density and ease of sanding. High end jobs woukd most likely require 2 fills still, but you can do 1 on average scope jobs if you look close when filling and such.
Xc Painter thanks for the tips. If you ever relocate to the south jersey shore you have a job. Do you spray Sheetrock also, when your doing a custom home?. A lot of these homes I do nowadays don’t have much Sheetrock showing with decrotive ceilings and wainscoting/shiplap on walls. Do you have video where you spray a coffered or Tongue and groove ceiling? Hope you don’t mind all the questions if there is an easier way to contact you let me know. Thanks so much!
Greg Elliott Hey there. I do spray walls and ceilings on certain jobs. When I'm working on new construction it is usually sprayed and backrolled immediately. I sometimes don't backroll low end jobs, or some smooth wall jobs where customer doesn't want any roller stipple at all. I don't have videos of coffered ceilings yet but I've done them. The last t&g ceiling we did this summer was exterior, we sprayed from the ground with spray extensions and a 6" stain brush on a 8' pole to backbrush. We did a whitewash stain and then a clear coat
James Quant Thanks, these knee pads are very comfy. They were given to me by the awesome owners of the local company that makes them. I spray in occupied homes once in a while too, as long as I can contain the spray, and the vapors won't gas anyone out.
Like your vids . Keep posting ...aswome work I too do high end work . Mostly in brenwood and Beverly hills areas. Do you like the new graco ff lp tips?
foreman4900 I think they are pretty good. With the oil primer, I still had to turn the 695 up almost full pressure to get a good fan, with brand new tips. Latex topcoat was more cooperative. Finish was excellent for both products.
At 12:23 where you caulk the window then using blue painter's tape before masking the window, are you using the blue tape on top the caulk while still wet or dry? Some apply when wet and remove right away but that's for a one coat job!
The whole vinyl window got taped before the caulking. The tape is held out 1/8" or under away from the wood edge. Just wipe the caulk nice and not bridged onto the tape and you let it dry, as well as the primer, and 2 top coats. You can pull the masking a day or 2 (or more) after topcoats are done.
On a high end job when your looking for best possible result. After you prime and notice a ding or hole that the filler has shrunk, how do you attack it. Or in the new construction process working with other trades how do you attack a ding on trim that has been finished with 2 top coats. Thanks
Greg Elliott If there was a small flaw after primer is done, I would go around and use Glazing Putty/lacquer putty to fill all the fine stuff. On high gloss jobs or high end jobs, which are treated like production jobs still, we would sand all the primer, vacuum brush clean, then lacquer putty anything visible with a side light, then sand, clean and spray topcoats. Lacquer putty is for VERY shallow fills only, not holes or cracks or dents. To fix a ding I would use Elmers wood filler since it dries sort of hard and can fix corners, holes, dents. To fix damaged work, you can fill, sand, and brush carefuly, or mask the work around that board, and respray that board. If it
I was asking because when I spray water based undercoat or water based primer sealer undercoat, then spray oil based enamel , I get tiny pin holes , sometimes even bubbles , the pin hole type ends up looking like dust with down lights , but the bubbles end up me having to sand fill and repaint, have you ever experienced this or would know what causes this to happen, Great work mate!
Artie6937 I can't recall ever using waterborne primer before using oil enamel topcoat. That sucks that bubbles/pin holes are happening. There are so many variables to figure out why it's happening. I guess an easy guess would be an incompatibility with the primer and enamel. Or the primer might be porous and releasing air as the oil soaks in and off gasses... not totally sure. Double check from the manufacturers on compatibility and see if there were reports of a bad batch of paint.
Hi the primer on this job is Ben Moore Fresh Start 217 Enamel underbody. Knee pads are made by Benik and the "universal buttress" is recommended to get. (Inner knee cap padding) benik.com/adults/knee/k-404
Nice video. What is the best primer to use on bare MDF wainscoting panels? Planning an using a SW satin white paint to coat. Would you recommend a latex additive to help minimize brush marks?
Fillow Tree I think a slow dry oil primer is one of the best performing, especially if you have to brush and roll. Lacquer undercoater is the other great performing primer but it is not a product that can be brushed or rolled, only sprayed. The primer I used in this video is Benjamin Moore Alkyd Enamel Underbody (product # 217) - all sprayed. If you have to roll, a velour mini roller might be best.
Would u say MDF might be cheaper to buy at start, but it takes more time/expense to properly prepare for paint than WOOD trim OR do you have to do the about the same prepping on wood trim too? Paint Sub. was our biggest issue on last house so we had to redo lots. :(
WonderWoman0313 I would agree MDF is cheaper than real wood and takes a certain amount of prep. Real wood can get super expensive and has maybe a tiny bit less prep (only if it has nice grain and no other issues). Some grades of wood can be more of a hassle or require more detail though, like grainy wood (Poplar) or like pre-primed, finger jointed pine might have tannin bleed problems and the factory primer often flakes off or fails. Some wood comes with nicks, or saw chatter. Mdf is nice that at least it's flat so we can machine sand it quickly.
Nice
Love your vids man!
This guy is good!
Wicked video
Thank you
You are a master at your trade sir! I really enjoy watching your vids and picking up so many painting tips, no wasted movements when you get going !!
M&Ibooth Thank you for watching and for the compliment.
Great video.
I wish i could go into this much detail on every millpack.
Could easily spend months on prep work.
May our finger tips R.I.P
This video is gold. I am DIYing casing mill work for my two bedrooms and I discovered a few more tools I can buy that will be useful. Thank you.
Nice to see someone who cares so much about their craft.
Probably the best video I’ve seen about preparing woodwork for painting , great work mate!
I use poly filler for deep holes 1st sand with 180 machine the fill with poly filler gloss filler and sand with machine 240,but I don’t build up the filler because it’s takes too long to sand normally spray oil based gloss
That was well explained, awesome job mate, thanks a million!!!
GOOD VIDEO. I Like to use painters bondo after spackle and sanding
Thanks. I wanted gloss on my trim which is detailed. I decided to do it myself since I am good at painting and have a professional airless. However I was hung up on the prep especially the filling holes and what product to use. Thanks so much for your help. Only issues is the molding I have is a very detailed profile and sanding isn't straight forward. I don't want to sand down the profile so maybe a different easier to sand filler?
The easiest sanding filler that still works well is the crawfords vinyl spackle.
It's like a lightweight spackle but works better.
Fabulous video, great to see a contractor on top of his game.
great prep work buddy well done
I am ending all my subscriptions to other channels with regard to painting. This channel is by far the best I have come across.
Thanks for that!! Don't give up on others though, I'm just one small part of the online painting community 👍👍
Paint life TV or the Idaho Painter is another good one to subscribe to. Great work XC Painter
Nice job! Looks flawless!
518 Painters Thank you very much. I finally just sprayed slow dry oil primer on everything downstairs today. 8.5 gallons with the 310fflp. So happy it's close to done, and results are looking good.
You do great work brother. Keep it up.
Thank you
Great tips !!!!! Keep them coming 👍👍👍
Proper job that is.
I'm impressed how much info you have share THANK YOU SO MUCH I'm technically new on this level of painting you have give me so much help keep on sharing
Henry Yanez thanks! I tried to cover the basics well
XC Painter I can tell you I learned even from the seconds it showed you taping and the use of a vacuum I had a bad experience spraying with out vacuum the floor and learn the hard way and find out on you're video thanks again
Great video! DIYer here. I wish others were as meticulous as you. Question: I want to repaint mdf stair risers. The surface has become almost bubbly. As I sand with 220, what if some of the brown paper gets small pinholes. Do I need to treat it with a special primer / sealant before painting?
Great video. Learning a lot from these. Thanks for doing this XC! 👌
Great Job.. I wish more home owners and builders would see this video.. Most of them want that quality of work but have no idea how much time and labor it takes.. They want Designer products at Walmart prices...
David Raab Thank you so much.
good video! edited well, and lots of good tips. thanks for sharing the knowledge
Great work man. I do a lot of the same kind of work and you are right there is painting and then there is next level painting. It helps to have good carpenters doing the installs or else our job becomes a lot harder Lol
Another great detailed video
Thank you!
You prep then spray millwork first, then bag off and do walls and ceilings? Or have you already sprayed walls and ceilings? I'm guessing walls are done because then when would you caulk the side of the window frame to the wall? Awesome videos, just found you channel and going through all your videos.
Edit: also the 32 foot hose for the festool is the best purchase I've made
Thanks for the support and questions. On this project we had primed and painted all the drywall first... Sprayed and backroll primer on all drywall,24 hrs to dry, spray and backroll walls (eggshell).
We then bagged walls and sprayed ceilings Flat).
We caulk all trim to walls, let dry, and quickly paint that caulking the wall color before masking/taping walls off.
I did buy a 32 foot festool hose as well, 3-4 years back, and it's awesome when it's not breaking (at the middle or end connectors).
I've had to put mine back together quite a few times now.
@@XCPainter Got it makes sense, thanks
@@XCPainter Had to as well but it goes together pretty easy. Ever hit yourself in the nuts with the end of the electric cord while using the vaccuum with the 32 foot hose. That's my least favorite part of it.
Amazing video n’ very nice job👍🏼
jorge espinosa thanks for the compliment and feedback!
We use a lot of Farrow and Ball paint in those houses.
Also like to use Benjamin Moore regal and Advance.
For cabinets and built ins. Genneral Finishes enduro and milk paint then topcoated with enduro poly .
Super stuff and nice finish
Hard to get oilbased paint. Here in south cali
Im filling holes on pre finished wood trim. A nail gun was used by the carpenter for the nails and how do I remove the raised swelled up nail holes on pre finished wood. Some of the holes are a pain to fill and sand lol. I can't get a perfect finish.
That's a tough one, like mission impossible! Best thing is to set the expectations of the client or builder because that's the route someone chose!
@@XCPainter thanks bro. Always appreciate your replies and happy new year! X
Nice videos. Like your MDF prep. Do MDF trims and extensions on our jobs. Learned a few tips.
David Rose Great to hear man! Thank you for checking it out.
Great video. What oil primer is compatible with BM paints? I'm spraying some mdf cabinets. I'm thinking Advance is my best bet but not sure which primer to use...
Thanks. Benjamin Moore branded Fresh Start oil, general purpose oil would be good.
Advance doesn't have the best adhesion, it's okay.
With the oil primer, it would very best to make sure it's gassed off and cured before sanding, and even more before Advance goes on.
@XCPainter Thanks. I've been using Stix and Advance until I realized I should be using an oil primer on mdf.
Any recommendations for a water-based finish for mdf builtins? I heard people use scuffx or Command also. 99% of my customers request BM colors. I have a Graco gx19 so not comfortable running any crazy solvents through there yet
@@joseph7105 honestly I'd look into a better coating for built ins... maybe Renner, Enviolak, or Centurion products ... you can search for distributors and they can help with the details and usage of their products.
@@XCPainter yeah I heard of those. Maybe I will just go for it now that I've switched to spraying. Thanks again
Hey xc. I’ve ref’d this video a dozen times at least.
Just wondering. You’re priming your preprimed milk pack after prep is completed. What’s your process on raw mdf when using a waterbourne system? If you ever do that. We don’t spray oil unless absolutely necessary. Would you preprime to seal and then prep and then prime again?
I rarely prime mdf with waterborne, but just happened to use it on my current job.
Mdf sills and some finger-jointed pine trim, plus fiberglass doors.
I used Stix bonding primer on the fiberglass, and used Miller Paint "Miller Prime" Enamel Undercoater on everything else.
It sprayed on smooth and seemed to sand alright but I think nowhere as nice as lacquer undercoater or oil.
Luckily I didn't have any mdf doors to do, because that's where the wb usually raises the "grain" the most.
It didn't seal out any tannins or stain spots, and took extra effort to double coat raw areas... (on a higher end project I could see double priming, then sand everything with the waterborne primer.)
... it seemed like it took more passes with the gun, to get coverage, or I had to spray closer to the surface to lay it on wet.
Would do all prep, fillers, and caulking, then prime, hopefully having extremely little prep after that, or the glazing putty phase if that's planned for
You should post this video on my Home Improvement with Art page on Facebook and YT
Do your prime before your first coat of paint?
Yes 99% of the time.
You're doing it right my friend, (Did you know you can mix you;'re filler with 50% Light weight) Beautiful,
Thanks Art. I mix elmers carpenter filler and Crawford's spackle often for easier hand sanding.
Thanks brother for this video. Was searching around for some high end prep videos. Very thoughtful of you to take your time and make this video. One question... I can't find BM enamel undercoat in the UK. Any alternatives. Thanks
Thank you for the compliments. I'm not very familiar with the UK products but an oil enamel undercoater would be similar most likely. This product is a slow dry if that helps. It helps it level out and flow to a smoother finish without raising the wood grain.
We do those same steps. Great to see. But we use a product called One time and ready patch for holes and seems. Love your hose extension on your vacuum very efficient, I’m going to use that. For years I’ve talked all my builders into hand painting everything we do those same steps but use a 3/8ths microfiber roller and it looks like glass. I’m expanding and designer wants it sprayed, not our specialty but our high end prep work and Minimal experience shouldn’t be too hard of a transition? Any tips?
Greg Elliott Thanks for your feedback. Tips on doing your spray work: obviously vacuum all trim and floors before critical prep and spray steps, use brush attachments on vacuum, strainer bag the paint and use a fine mesh filter in the gun, 310 or 410 ff tip.
Use floor paper instead of drop cloths whenever possible (easier to clean).
When spraying, don't do slow passes with the gun. Faster passes with gun 8" away from work, and 50% overlap. Just throwing some tips out.
Do you primer your mdf with oil primer ones you prep work is done before you spray your top coats ? Or do you spray your topcoats and find no need for priming the mdf after the prep work.
I definitely prefer to oil prime mdf millwork after prep work.
Using Fresh Start Oil enamel undercoater 217 on this one
Thank you very much
One last question when your spraying your oil primer are you spraying it through a rac x low pressure fine finish 410 tip. If so does this require you to thin your oil primer ?
@@michaelcollister3873 good question. I thin oil primer with 10 - 15% of lacquer thinner. You can go more than 15 also, but 10 to 15 is good and add more if necessary.
That will help it spray easier and with a nice fan pattern.
I avoid using mineral spirits for thinning whenever possible.
I used a Graco 410 fflp which does a nice job at medium - low pressure. 1300 -1600.
I also like titan sc6+ purple at higher pressure. They push out more paint flow (production) but also possibly more overspray.
@@XCPainter thank you for the knowledge on the mdf its truely a art to get perfection.I have alot of mdf mill packs and its challenging product to bid and work on any knowledge like yours is saving extensive time and money . I see that you mask above your base boards and around your window caseing is this to prevent build up of your prime coat and top coats?
When spraying, after all prep is done and you spray prime. Lite sand before 1st coat? And after 1st coat just a wipe down basically with a glove? to make sure it’s clean, but if room was cleaned properly mite not be needed before final coat? Normally when hand painting we’d prime and prep sand 120 and then after 1st coat we sand 220 before final coat. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. Thanks Greg
Greg Elliott Hi, sorry for late reply. After prime is sprayed and dried, we would do a light sand with 220 or fine sanding sponge depending on primer used. Some primers require more sanding. Then everything gets vacuumed and cleaned, including floors of course. After first coat of paint is done we would check for any issues, like the rare run/sag or a little dust that got kicked up onto a baseboard or sonething minor. I prefer to not sand beteeen coats and usually everything is smooth and good so I don't have to. We only sand where needed (hopefully none) between topcoats. If not much was sanded, we would still do a quick vacuum on the trim, and all floors because of spray dust and debris from people walking around that day.
I use rainbow powder mixed with sparkling paste
Morales Drywall and Painting julio never heard of rainbow powder.
😂😂😂 good one👊
Rainbow commercial whiting😎
Fantastic job! I'm a painter who takes pride in his work and uses quality products. Have you experienced "swelling" after applying the wood filler to the MDF? Seems there is no product out there safe for MDF. Haven't tried the Elmer's, just MH ready patch. Found it hard to sand crown with delta sander...always sand by hand it seems. Have you used Festools Duplex LS 130 EQ for contours? What type of Festool abrasives do you use? Granat? Keep up the great vids! Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't noticed the mdf swell from the wood filler application. To make the Elmer's filler easier to sand for contours or just in general, you can mix in Crawfords vinyl spackle (any percentage you want.) Sometimes i have more crawfords in the mix, sometimes more Elmer's. I do own the LS130 but I haven't used it a lot. I've tried it on round handrail before but not crown molding. I wouldn't buy it unless really needed (or wanted). I don't think the ls130 will sand the intricate details like in the corners fully. I use the Granat since that is what or local stores carry and it is versatile.
@@XCPainter hey there. Just a question about your mixing the Elmer's wood filler with the Crawford's vinyl spackle paste. Did you find a performance issue with it compared to putting the wood filler first and then the Spackle paste as the second coat which I believe you did in your video. And I've heard people doing a 50/50 1 to 1 ratio as far as product amount. Your feedback is appreciated thank you
@@fateswarning129 I don't think there is any performance issue other than slight changes to it's density and ease of sanding. High end jobs woukd most likely require 2 fills still, but you can do 1 on average scope jobs if you look close when filling and such.
Xc Painter thanks for the tips. If you ever relocate to the south jersey shore you have a job. Do you spray Sheetrock also, when your doing a custom home?. A lot of these homes I do nowadays don’t have much Sheetrock showing with decrotive ceilings and wainscoting/shiplap on walls. Do you have video where you spray a coffered or Tongue and groove ceiling? Hope you don’t mind all the questions if there is an easier way to contact you let me know. Thanks so much!
Greg Elliott Hey there. I do spray walls and ceilings on certain jobs. When I'm working on new construction it is usually sprayed and backrolled immediately. I sometimes don't backroll low end jobs, or some smooth wall jobs where customer doesn't want any roller stipple at all.
I don't have videos of coffered ceilings yet but I've done them. The last t&g ceiling we did this summer was exterior, we sprayed from the ground with spray extensions and a 6" stain brush on a 8' pole to backbrush. We did a whitewash stain and then a clear coat
lots of great tips. are those knee pads comfortable. your work looks like new construction.do u spray if the people are living there
James Quant Thanks, these knee pads are very comfy. They were given to me by the awesome owners of the local company that makes them.
I spray in occupied homes once in a while too, as long as I can contain the spray, and the vapors won't gas anyone out.
Like your vids . Keep posting ...aswome work
I too do high end work .
Mostly in brenwood and Beverly hills areas.
Do you like the new graco ff lp tips?
foreman4900 I think they are pretty good. With the oil primer, I still had to turn the 695 up almost full pressure to get a good fan, with brand new tips. Latex topcoat was more cooperative. Finish was excellent for both products.
foreman4900 Awesome man, your paint jobs are probably awesome looking in those homes.
Would it be good idea to paint trim mouldings first then mask and paint walls?
You are free to do paint that way if you wish, or if it works out better.
At 12:23 where you caulk the window then using blue painter's tape before masking the window, are you using the blue tape on top the caulk while still wet or dry? Some apply when wet and remove right away but that's for a one coat job!
The whole vinyl window got taped before the caulking. The tape is held out 1/8" or under away from the wood edge. Just wipe the caulk nice and not bridged onto the tape and you let it dry, as well as the primer, and 2 top coats. You can pull the masking a day or 2 (or more) after topcoats are done.
Where do you buy tape that is large enough to fit your hand through?
What primer do you use on mill work?
For this job I used Benjamin Moore 217 oil enamel undercoat
On a high end job when your looking for best possible result. After you prime and notice a ding or hole that the filler has shrunk, how do you attack it. Or in the new construction process working with other trades how do you attack a ding on trim that has been finished with 2 top coats. Thanks
Greg Elliott If there was a small flaw after primer is done, I would go around and use Glazing Putty/lacquer putty to fill all the fine stuff. On high gloss jobs or high end jobs, which are treated like production jobs still, we would sand all the primer, vacuum brush clean, then lacquer putty anything visible with a side light, then sand, clean and spray topcoats. Lacquer putty is for VERY shallow fills only, not holes or cracks or dents.
To fix a ding I would use Elmers wood filler since it dries sort of hard and can fix corners, holes, dents.
To fix damaged work, you can fill, sand, and brush carefuly, or mask the work around that board, and respray that board.
If it
Hay, just wondering if you ever spray water based undercoat or water based primer sealer undercoat on doors and trim ?
I do use water borne primers sometimes, but I use oil or lacquer undercoater when possible and called for.
I was asking because when I spray water based undercoat or water based primer sealer undercoat, then spray oil based enamel , I get tiny pin holes , sometimes even bubbles , the pin hole type ends up looking like dust with down lights , but the bubbles end up me having to sand fill and repaint, have you ever experienced this or would know what causes this to happen, Great work mate!
Artie6937 I can't recall ever using waterborne primer before using oil enamel topcoat. That sucks that bubbles/pin holes are happening. There are so many variables to figure out why it's happening. I guess an easy guess would be an incompatibility with the primer and enamel.
Or the primer might be porous and releasing air as the oil soaks in and off gasses... not totally sure.
Double check from the manufacturers on compatibility and see if there were reports of a bad batch of paint.
Thanks , well it is even written on the tin, also the builders speck sheet from dulux says to to be done this way :/ thanks again 👍
Artie6937 okay. I hope you get to the bottom of it, or it quits happening.
what do you use to clean your gun with after using 217 oil primer
I use Paint thinner/Mineral Spirits to rinse the sprayer and gun.
who makes slow dry oil primer. what is the name of your knee pads.do they have a web page
Hi the primer on this job is Ben Moore Fresh Start 217 Enamel underbody. Knee pads are made by Benik and the "universal buttress" is recommended to get. (Inner knee cap padding) benik.com/adults/knee/k-404
Nice video. What is the best primer to use on bare MDF wainscoting panels? Planning an using a SW satin white paint to coat. Would you recommend a latex additive to help minimize brush marks?
Fillow Tree I think a slow dry oil primer is one of the best performing, especially if you have to brush and roll. Lacquer undercoater is the other great performing primer but it is not a product that can be brushed or rolled, only sprayed.
The primer I used in this video is Benjamin Moore Alkyd Enamel Underbody (product # 217) - all sprayed. If you have to roll, a velour mini roller might be best.
Fillow Tree oh also, what paint are you planning on using? SW Pro Classic lays down pretty smooth without any additives.
Would u say MDF might be cheaper to buy at start, but it takes more time/expense to properly prepare for paint than WOOD trim OR do you have to do the about the same prepping on wood trim too?
Paint Sub. was our biggest issue on last house so we had to redo lots. :(
WonderWoman0313 I would agree MDF is cheaper than real wood and takes a certain amount of prep. Real wood can get super expensive and has maybe a tiny bit less prep (only if it has nice grain and no other issues).
Some grades of wood can be more of a hassle or require more detail though, like grainy wood (Poplar) or like pre-primed, finger jointed pine might have tannin bleed problems and the factory primer often flakes off or fails. Some wood comes with nicks, or saw chatter.
Mdf is nice that at least it's flat so we can machine sand it quickly.