I kinda learned this naturally, when welding thin metal. I was having trouble with a more straight angle on the rod. But on more of a slant and drag, I had an easier time. You have to move fast with thin metal and dragging at a steep angle, rather than more straight and upright, helps you move more easily and faster, but still lay down some rod/fill and get good penetration. It's tricky to get the travel speed right and keep moving so as to not burn a hole through, but get good penetration too. And your amperage has to be dialed in just right, not too high or low. So just go amp by amp testing it, until you are not sticking the rod, but are not burning too hot/aggressive and making holes. It's typically a very narrow range and your perfect balance may be in a 1-2 amp range only, like mine, 23-24 amps no higher or lower using Fourney rods, 6013 at 1/16th on a DC Inverter welder. There is a magic number for your machine, metal thinness, rods and application and everyone's is a little different. But nobody welds this thin at anything over 30-35 amps with 1/16th 6013 rod and most are in the low to mid. 20 amp range and even lower if you can and it works and doesn't stick the rod. Another approach, is to peck and lift and then peck again, just as the metal cools a touch, from being molten, but before it loses the red colour and is still semi molten. It's like a 1/2 second to 1 second pause between each peck and lift and it works good too without burn through. That's how I started and a lot of people do, with peck and lift. Then learn/practice running continuous welds, using a more slanted angle on the rod, just like you did, yup. Doing it according to welding logic and teachings, (hold the rod upright, with just a slight slant and using a slight rocking motion), was much harder I found on thin metal and rods. Very sloppy welds and hard to strike and maintain a steady bead, puddle, flow and consistency. That more upright stick position is correct and great for using thicker rods on thicker steel and joining angles and joints etc., typically, but NOT here, on thin metal and rods. You have to throw some of the rules out the window, lol and try something different. It's because of the fast travel speed, rods and thinness with this I think (but I'm a newbie, so I don't know much), that dragging on a steeper angle like that, just works better. And the professional welding channels on RUclips do that sometimes with thick rods and metal too or certain kinds of rods and metal. One guy said "as I move you might see me change to more of a slanted rod position than upright and that's just my style, I always weld in the most comfortable position for me. So don't try to copy my every motion or position, because you may be different. Only if I say there's a reason to be in a certain position for a certain application/weld, should you try to copy my motions/technique." This would be one of those times he was referring to, indeed, that you would want to copy the stick position of the welder in the video. About the same angle you were at, is very close or the same slant I put on mine, somewhere around a 45 degree angle, give or take, but 45 is a good starting angle and right in the middle of straight upright and flat.
I would say the pecking is best when you need to get something done and then with time and practice you get to where you can continuous weld but no shame in pecking.
@@aculasabacca Yeah, that's how I started with the thin metal. Peck and lift and then as I got the hang of the speed and characteristics of welding thin metal without burning through, I worked on going in longer, more continuous lines. But a lot of people, when dealing with thin metal, do peck and lift. Welding the continuous lines on thin metal, is tricky to get good penetration without burning through and it seems as if raised arcs like his (and mine turn out), from a long arc are almost inevitable to run a continuous weld with decent penetration and no burn through. Maybe with more time and practice that lessens, but you're moving at such a quick travel speed with this, that it's hard to avoid raised welds and long arcs and spatter. It's certainly a knack and takes practice to get it. And the best way is to take it step by step, as I told someone in another comment thread I saw you in. About what amperage the person should use to do thin metal and you said "as low as you can go without sticking". Yeah and I added "most people do it at 20-30 amps and never over 35 usually, using 1/16th 6013 rod". On mine, the magic amperage seems to be 24, to not stick but not be too hot/aggressive either. On 22, I was sticking a lot and that's as low as mine goes. I had to do it in stages and be patient with my progress, because it would be too frustrating to master all of the tricks, changes, characteristics etc. at once. Like first, peck and lift get a feel for it so as to not burn through, then run short bad penetration welds, then work on getting longer, better penetration constant welds without burn through and so on. Patience and practice is key to this, absolutely. Getting the travel speed is tricky, because it's fast. And dialing in amperage is tricky too and getting a good balance between not sticking and being too low and not being too high and hot so as to promote burn through. So your comment on that was spot on and great advice. Take it amp by amp, one at a time, because the perfectly balanced power/number, will likely be at only a certain narrow amperage. At least that was my experience with my welder. Go above it by 1-2 amp and it's too hot/aggressive, go below it by 1 amp and more sticking. So 24 is my perfect number with those rods, on exhaust pipe metal thickness anyway. Have not tried anything thinner yet. That was challenging enough for a newbie like me, lol.
This was very helpful. I’m a mechanic who doesn’t weld. I just purchased a stick welder and practiced on a flex pipe and complete melted through it on 75 amps 😅. I lowered it to 35 and had better results but it would stick. I got the hang of it A BIT. everything you’re saying makes sense, and I will be back to practicing tomorrow.
@@malcolmkelly8118 That's why I bought mine, vehicle work, but it's handy for soooo many other things. Those DC inverter welders like I have and likely what you got too (cause they are cheap and are fine for everything on vehicles) have certain features on the slightly more expensive ones (like the Hitbox brand on Amazon, still under $200). Like "hot start", "arc force" and "anti stick" features, that make stick welding thin metal even easier. Another two tricks I saw that should help on thin metal are A:) If you have a DC inverter welder, most of them are capable of DCEN (DC Electrode Negative, check your manual though), which is less aggressive than DCEP (electrode positive), because you are taking electricity from the negative/return side=less chance of burn through. You just switch your cables around, the stick goes on the negative and the clamp is now the positive. (no worries, as long as your welder has this feature it is not dangerous whatsoever). And B:) when working on flatter than exhaust pipe thin metals (which you will be doing too, no doubt), is to use a chunk of flat thicker metal behind it Whether magneted on or clamped on. It will act as a heatsink and pull excess heat away from the weld helping avoid burn through. Might even work for welding non closed up exhaust pipe, if you can get a piece of curved stuff in there, like a smaller pipe or half a pipe piece? This heatsinking method of putting metal behind the thin metal is the "only" way to successfully do the razor blade challenge with a stick welder. It usually can only be done with finer welding methods like Mig and Tig and technically should be impossible with a stick welder. Well, it's not if you use that trick. Look it up here on RUclips, "razor blade challenge stick welder" and you'll see what I mean. He explains how the heatsink method works and weld the blades together. It is exactly what it sounds like, welding the edges of two razor blades together (lap joint, not razor's edge to razor's edge that's impossible). It's an absolutely AWESOME tip for thin metals, if you can get something behind it to soak up that heat. Dramatically reduces burn through/eliminates it and allows for excellent penetration. I get that might be impossible on some/most exhaust pipe jobs (cause closed, ultimately), but with welding car metal, you will be using that welder for a lot more than exhaust pipe, believe me. Especially if you drive and fix other people's older vehicles like me and have to deal with rust and salt in the North. RUclips will become your best friend as a newbie welder, it sure did become mine.
Всю машину так переварил ваз 2110, просто нет денег на полуавтомат,все получилось прекрасно,но нервов ушло очень много,больше никогда не буду таким заниматься,если все идеально встык как на видео,то легко,но в реальной жизни все иначе... Удачи всем.
@its-2555 в первом случае он непрерывно заварил,а во втором с отрывами электрода,разумеется наклон сделал более острым чтобы температуру дуги немного отводить по поверхности а не в лоб так сказать.
@@ВикторБизунков-я3п в первом случае он непрерывно заварил,а во втором с отрывами электрода,разумеется наклон сделал более острым чтобы температуру дуги немного отводить по поверхности а не в лоб так сказать.
I usually weld steel section that's 10mm minimum, but if I ever came across steel this thin I would have burnt a golf ball sized hole in it within the first 2 seconds. Video's like this are going to save me from buying a mig welder yet.Cheers
The only reason I bought my HH 135 was to weld body panels and fill holes I blew through in heavier stuff . Honestly nearly 20 years later I still grab my Lincoln Tombstone for almost everything . Having a model with DC really helps as well! It’s just quicker and easier than all that setup time, changing rolls ect. In the end they both do the same job and a quick lick with a grinder makes ugly welds pretty enough . The only thing I did to mine was put on a pair of lead extensions which makes it necessary to run it a tad hotter sometimes by one setting.
Im with you. Actually I'm an electrician of 40yrs but have welded when needed that entire time and this guy without saying a word shows me something that I hadnt considered. Id always back up my weld with a copper plate. Ill have to try this tomorrow and see what happens. Also want to try that with the MIG.
Best way to weld thin metal period is to reverse the polarity on your portable welder sharpen a carbon stick, clamp it in your stinger and use silicon bronze, you can weld paper thin metal and will tear the metal before breaking the weld. We used this method welding 22gauge conductor pipe for blow pipe and welded miles of it.
Yeah, that's super handy actually! I did DCEN (DC electrode negative) and it can be a great way to prevent burning through thin metals. It's less aggressive than DCEP, because the electricity is on the return side of the loop rather than start of the loop.
😂 Obvio que no paisano, cuando te dedicas a soldar materiales de ciertos espesores te acostumbras pero explicales que: -se inclina el electrodo para evitar que el calor se concentre en un punto y perfore el material -si no tienes experiencia es mejor puntear que cordonear -se solda con E-6013 de 3/32 aproximadamente entre 20-30 amperes dependiendo la maquina que uses -si es galvanizado usa un poco mas de amperaje para quemar el zinc. Para quien ya tiene cierta experiencia esto parecería lógico, pero la gente se queda con dudas. Que gacho que la mayoría de los videos que suben ( no solo tu, en general) solo buscan likes. Saludos. 😂 🖖🏼
Видео ни о чём.Какой ток,электрод,цинк не цинк и тп,ничего не рассказано.Кто знал как варить тот знает,кто не знал-так и останется секретом и учёба "методом тыка".
The main secret to avoid blow hole in thin metal lies in the machine settings which most veterans in the industry never tells, swith from DCEP to DCEN current settings 35-38. Thanks 😉
@@MEOW-sh9qz yah! you just need to switch the electrode cable in your machine from positive to negative the same goes to ground cable from negative to positive
2 points, always grind off the galvanised coating { not only does it contaminate the weld pool, the smoke is full of arsenic } and never ever grind the backbone off a stick weld, that is where the strength lies.
I would assume hes grinding the bead off to show the welds interior and in reality little strength comes from thr bead its all about the fusion and penetration if the joint is going to fail it with not be the weld but along the area the weld mixture meets the parent metal
Contamination isnt a problem its the fumes. Arc and mag welding isnt going to care. It might be a little harder to get it up to heat it up to temp for the first second or two, but galvanizing is so thin its going to just burn up and your going to breath in some toxins no matter the protection unless you are in a havoc suit with air flow. My first full time welding job was welding galvanized pipe to oily bent and stamp punched angle iron. That guy didnt care if we died the next day. Was alwaysnturning the exhause fans off. Intil one day he put a lock over the fan switches. Which started a strike that same day. And why would you ever want to tig weld a piece of galvanized metal? Which would probably burn just fine too its not aluminum.
I dont know his initial weld looked poor then suddenly he had it all ground already. I think this is edited to cut out mistakes as much as possible. So he ran multiple cover passes to fill in the undercut and porosity and more grinding. He still had a bunch of micro holes in it. The problem with porosity is. You can't just burn it out. It will just go back down into the weld and resurface in the cooling phase. It has to be ground out or cut out. Looked like he was welding with a little sparkler. So atleast it was funny. Have a great day..
The great thing about welding. Just grind it completely out and start over again. This poor guy does more grinding than welding. Sure needs a real welder to use and an oven to warm the humity out of his coated welding rods 80-85 degrees fahrenheit
@@w.f.productions7501 leaving the bead can make it weaker. Especially with a 6010 whip. Most welds are not stress welds. They mostly just hold something in place without much weight or pressure on the part. If it is a part with tremendous pressure. All stress points need to be removed. Can you guess the biggest stress point a crack will start?
Bonjour, merci pour vos vidéos elles sont bien, mais pourriez vous ajouter la taille des electrodes et le courant de soudage à titre d'informations. Cela completera parfaitement la vidéo
As low as you can go, as aculasbacca stated here, without the rod sticking. Typically about 20-30amps and usually never over 35amps max. And there's some other pro tips that help. You must use thin rod, like 1/16th only. Preferrably a rod that has low to medium penetration and isn't a violent, deep digging aggressive rod like 6010 or 6011. More like a 6013, which is typically what most people use for thin metal. You definitely want a fast freezing rod like the 60xx ones, but not an aggressive rod, as it will burn through/keyhole way too easily. The key to success, is be patient and don't worry if you burn though, while practicing and multiple times too. It's inevitable and WILL happen. It's tricky and takes multiple attempts and changes in travel speed, distance from the metal and angle of the rod (although this guy's video helped and going on a more extreme slant angle, like he did, certainly does make a difference and I discovered this naturally). I was having a lot of trouble doing it how you would approach a thicker metal/weld, where the practice/recommendation is to position more upright and straighter with just a slight angle and rocking motion. Not here, that's actually harder and a steeper angled drag like this works well. And as we know, long arcs/distance is not the way to make good penetration, clean nice welds, but with this, you have to defy some typical welding logic and break some rules, lol. That log arc and lower penetration/raised weld and spatter, is kind of a good thing here, because it helps avoid burn through/keyholing. Just have to make sure that you still are getting good penetration that's the only thing you should make sure you are getting and that, is the trickiest part, is getting the balance. It took me a few hours of practice to get it to where it was not keyholing, but getting good penetration too. It's a delicate balance and don't shoot for that right away in practice. Just get through it without burn through and get your travel/speed etc. right first (and it's rather fast with this, so be ready to move). Then worry about improving the strength of the weld/penetration as you get better at it. Trying to achieve everything at once, is too frustrating and hard. This is a process and failures and successes and taking it step by step. And you will fail, this is tricky. But once you get a feel for it and put all that together, as a comfortable process for yourself, you will be able to weld thin metal and have the "knack" for it. Just be patient and practice, practice, practice. Even the pros who do videos on it, still burn through/keyhole the odd time. I was burning though lots at first and then as I got my travel, distance, power, angle etc. fine tuned, I burned though less and got longer, nicer welds without keyholing and then got better at penetration, because I noticed on my first attempts I wasn't getting full penetration and they were kinda weak. It's a timing thing, very much so. You have to know just how long to stay in the pool and then move and it's a very fast travel. Faster than you go with thicker rods and metal. They will always be higher raised welds and require more grinding/finishing, because the distance you have work at and long arcs, will just naturally do that and if you try to improve that too much, you may risk burn through and more frustration. So just be aware, that your welds on thin metal, may never be as nice and relatively flat as your thicker metal and rod welds, nor as pretty.
You may want to think about grinding off the galvanized coating first before welding it where it then becomes a toxic gas that you're breathing in and failing to tell yur students about. Just saying, as that would be the first thing a trained welder would teach a student before worrying about the metals thickness.
А можно под тонкий металл подложить толстый для теплоотвода ,если есть возможность.Об этом почему-то никто не говорит,а я делал и получалось,хотя сварщик я совсем неопытный.
Я метал ставлю под наклоном хоть вертикально . Электрод двойка , подбираю ток , и веду электрод С ВЕРХУ В НИЗ. без колебаний. Немножко тренировки и будете гордиться собой. Главное поймать скорость движения электрода😊
the only thing I got from this is that it's possible and use a low angled rod, what rod ? 6013 is what I have, because I learned that it's a low penatrating rod, what amp settting ?, and my welder is an AC cracker box, I can't switch to DC- as I was told in the other video I watched. I subscribed to your challel and I see that you have a ton of them so any help and recommendations you can give for someone with limited equipment would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
So many comments about galvanizing being dangerously poisonous. The fumes can make you feel sick but they don’t cause permanent harm. Once you get out of the fumes the effects reverse. There’s no arsenic for example.
Ну, в целом понятно! Сначала надо указательным пальцем из стороны в сторону поводить, потом большой палец вверх поднять. А важно именно правой рукой это сделать, или левой тоже можно?
Nice weld sir how about the strength of metal specially thin galvanized if the weld is full is that ok sir to full weld stick is also strong weld I want to know if the strength of thin metal is decreased or not
Amigo eres un verdadero no pensé que eso se podía hace me puedes decir qué equipo utilizaste qué amperaje y electrodo soy aficionado y principiante un abrazo desde Colombia
Considering the use of metric units, it's obvious that the uploader is a foreign man. In most countries, 6013s are the only electrodes for mild or structural steel.
I kinda learned this naturally, when welding thin metal. I was having trouble with a more straight angle on the rod. But on more of a slant and drag, I had an easier time. You have to move fast with thin metal and dragging at a steep angle, rather than more straight and upright, helps you move more easily and faster, but still lay down some rod/fill and get good penetration. It's tricky to get the travel speed right and keep moving so as to not burn a hole through, but get good penetration too. And your amperage has to be dialed in just right, not too high or low. So just go amp by amp testing it, until you are not sticking the rod, but are not burning too hot/aggressive and making holes. It's typically a very narrow range and your perfect balance may be in a 1-2 amp range only, like mine, 23-24 amps no higher or lower using Fourney rods, 6013 at 1/16th on a DC Inverter welder.
There is a magic number for your machine, metal thinness, rods and application and everyone's is a little different. But nobody welds this thin at anything over 30-35 amps with 1/16th 6013 rod and most are in the low to mid. 20 amp range and even lower if you can and it works and doesn't stick the rod. Another approach, is to peck and lift and then peck again, just as the metal cools a touch, from being molten, but before it loses the red colour and is still semi molten. It's like a 1/2 second to 1 second pause between each peck and lift and it works good too without burn through.
That's how I started and a lot of people do, with peck and lift. Then learn/practice running continuous welds, using a more slanted angle on the rod, just like you did, yup. Doing it according to welding logic and teachings, (hold the rod upright, with just a slight slant and using a slight rocking motion), was much harder I found on thin metal and rods. Very sloppy welds and hard to strike and maintain a steady bead, puddle, flow and consistency. That more upright stick position is correct and great for using thicker rods on thicker steel and joining angles and joints etc., typically, but NOT here, on thin metal and rods. You have to throw some of the rules out the window, lol and try something different.
It's because of the fast travel speed, rods and thinness with this I think (but I'm a newbie, so I don't know much), that dragging on a steeper angle like that, just works better. And the professional welding channels on RUclips do that sometimes with thick rods and metal too or certain kinds of rods and metal. One guy said "as I move you might see me change to more of a slanted rod position than upright and that's just my style, I always weld in the most comfortable position for me. So don't try to copy my every motion or position, because you may be different. Only if I say there's a reason to be in a certain position for a certain application/weld, should you try to copy my motions/technique."
This would be one of those times he was referring to, indeed, that you would want to copy the stick position of the welder in the video. About the same angle you were at, is very close or the same slant I put on mine, somewhere around a 45 degree angle, give or take, but 45 is a good starting angle and right in the middle of straight upright and flat.
I would say the pecking is best when you need to get something done and then with time and practice you get to where you can continuous weld but no shame in pecking.
@@aculasabacca Yeah, that's how I started with the thin metal. Peck and lift and then as I got the hang of the speed and characteristics of welding thin metal without burning through, I worked on going in longer, more continuous lines. But a lot of people, when dealing with thin metal, do peck and lift. Welding the continuous lines on thin metal, is tricky to get good penetration without burning through and it seems as if raised arcs like his (and mine turn out), from a long arc are almost inevitable to run a continuous weld with decent penetration and no burn through.
Maybe with more time and practice that lessens, but you're moving at such a quick travel speed with this, that it's hard to avoid raised welds and long arcs and spatter. It's certainly a knack and takes practice to get it. And the best way is to take it step by step, as I told someone in another comment thread I saw you in. About what amperage the person should use to do thin metal and you said "as low as you can go without sticking". Yeah and I added "most people do it at 20-30 amps and never over 35 usually, using 1/16th 6013 rod". On mine, the magic amperage seems to be 24, to not stick but not be too hot/aggressive either. On 22, I was sticking a lot and that's as low as mine goes.
I had to do it in stages and be patient with my progress, because it would be too frustrating to master all of the tricks, changes, characteristics etc. at once. Like first, peck and lift get a feel for it so as to not burn through, then run short bad penetration welds, then work on getting longer, better penetration constant welds without burn through and so on. Patience and practice is key to this, absolutely. Getting the travel speed is tricky, because it's fast. And dialing in amperage is tricky too and getting a good balance between not sticking and being too low and not being too high and hot so as to promote burn through. So your comment on that was spot on and great advice. Take it amp by amp, one at a time, because the perfectly balanced power/number, will likely be at only a certain narrow amperage. At least that was my experience with my welder. Go above it by 1-2 amp and it's too hot/aggressive, go below it by 1 amp and more sticking. So 24 is my perfect number with those rods, on exhaust pipe metal thickness anyway. Have not tried anything thinner yet. That was challenging enough for a newbie like me, lol.
This was very helpful. I’m a mechanic who doesn’t weld. I just purchased a stick welder and practiced on a flex pipe and complete melted through it on 75 amps 😅. I lowered it to 35 and had better results but it would stick. I got the hang of it A BIT. everything you’re saying makes sense, and I will be back to practicing tomorrow.
@@malcolmkelly8118 That's why I bought mine, vehicle work, but it's handy for soooo many other things. Those DC inverter welders like I have and likely what you got too (cause they are cheap and are fine for everything on vehicles) have certain features on the slightly more expensive ones (like the Hitbox brand on Amazon, still under $200). Like "hot start", "arc force" and "anti stick" features, that make stick welding thin metal even easier.
Another two tricks I saw that should help on thin metal are A:) If you have a DC inverter welder, most of them are capable of DCEN (DC Electrode Negative, check your manual though), which is less aggressive than DCEP (electrode positive), because you are taking electricity from the negative/return side=less chance of burn through. You just switch your cables around, the stick goes on the negative and the clamp is now the positive. (no worries, as long as your welder has this feature it is not dangerous whatsoever).
And B:) when working on flatter than exhaust pipe thin metals (which you will be doing too, no doubt), is to use a chunk of flat thicker metal behind it Whether magneted on or clamped on. It will act as a heatsink and pull excess heat away from the weld helping avoid burn through. Might even work for welding non closed up exhaust pipe, if you can get a piece of curved stuff in there, like a smaller pipe or half a pipe piece?
This heatsinking method of putting metal behind the thin metal is the "only" way to successfully do the razor blade challenge with a stick welder. It usually can only be done with finer welding methods like Mig and Tig and technically should be impossible with a stick welder. Well, it's not if you use that trick. Look it up here on RUclips, "razor blade challenge stick welder" and you'll see what I mean. He explains how the heatsink method works and weld the blades together. It is exactly what it sounds like, welding the edges of two razor blades together (lap joint, not razor's edge to razor's edge that's impossible).
It's an absolutely AWESOME tip for thin metals, if you can get something behind it to soak up that heat. Dramatically reduces burn through/eliminates it and allows for excellent penetration. I get that might be impossible on some/most exhaust pipe jobs (cause closed, ultimately), but with welding car metal, you will be using that welder for a lot more than exhaust pipe, believe me. Especially if you drive and fix other people's older vehicles like me and have to deal with rust and salt in the North. RUclips will become your best friend as a newbie welder, it sure did become mine.
@@aculasabacca except then; youre a lousy welder doing terrible welds and that would be the only shame
If you are learning from this video, please wear a respirator while welding galvanized metal, even a respirator might not be enough.
Either grind it off or use muriatic acid. Super bad to breathe that.
thanks for this advice 🙏
You think anyones worried about a bit of galvi with all the crap thats being forced into them right now?
@@theravedaddy 😂
@@oxyfee6486 seriously tho, if hes out here in the wild they're ordering them to get 4 pokes now or cant walk in the streets!
Всю машину так переварил ваз 2110, просто нет денег на полуавтомат,все получилось прекрасно,но нервов ушло очень много,больше никогда не буду таким заниматься,если все идеально встык как на видео,то легко,но в реальной жизни все иначе... Удачи всем.
Я тоже эл.сваркой 2110,затем 10л.отьездил,продал и она еще у другого 3год на ходу.
Он показал правильный угол наклона электрода
@its-2555 в первом случае он непрерывно заварил,а во втором с отрывами электрода,разумеется наклон сделал более острым чтобы температуру дуги немного отводить по поверхности а не в лоб так сказать.
@@ВикторБизунков-я3п в первом случае он непрерывно заварил,а во втором с отрывами электрода,разумеется наклон сделал более острым чтобы температуру дуги немного отводить по поверхности а не в лоб так сказать.
Представляю какую залипуху ты там наварил
I usually weld steel section that's 10mm minimum,
but if I ever came across steel this thin I would have burnt a golf ball sized hole in it within the first 2 seconds.
Video's like this are going to save me from buying a mig welder yet.Cheers
The only reason I bought my HH 135 was to weld body panels and fill holes I blew through in heavier stuff . Honestly nearly 20 years later I still grab my Lincoln Tombstone for almost everything . Having a model with DC really helps as well! It’s just quicker and easier than all that setup time, changing rolls ect. In the end they both do the same job and a quick lick with a grinder makes ugly welds pretty enough . The only thing I did to mine was put on a pair of lead extensions which makes it necessary to run it a tad hotter sometimes by one setting.
I've been a welder for 25 years, but you're a great teacher.
Im with you. Actually I'm an electrician of 40yrs but have welded when needed that entire time and this guy without saying a word shows me something that I hadnt considered. Id always back up my weld with a copper plate. Ill have to try this tomorrow and see what happens. Also want to try that with the MIG.
Didnt both the welds crack ? Not much of a teacher making a weak joint .
За 25 лет можно всеми видами сварки научиться и владеть профессионально.
Плохой ты сварщик видимо 🤣
if you're a welder you should have told him not to weld galvanized before cleaning it.
Братан, все понимаю, но это же цинк. С него люди болеют. Головная боль, рвота и все такое. Будь осторожней.
Best way to weld thin metal period is to reverse the polarity on your portable welder sharpen a carbon stick, clamp it in your stinger and use silicon bronze, you can weld paper thin metal and will tear the metal before breaking the weld. We used this method welding 22gauge conductor pipe for blow pipe and welded miles of it.
Yeah, that's super handy actually! I did DCEN (DC electrode negative) and it can be a great way to prevent burning through thin metals. It's less aggressive than DCEP, because the electricity is on the return side of the loop rather than start of the loop.
Please could you say what settings the arc was on? AC and voltage and amperage. Thanks.
Скорее всего электрод на минусе
looks like below 50 amp
😂
Obvio que no paisano, cuando te dedicas a soldar materiales de ciertos espesores te acostumbras pero explicales que:
-se inclina el electrodo para evitar que el calor se concentre en un punto y perfore el material
-si no tienes experiencia es mejor puntear que cordonear
-se solda con E-6013 de 3/32 aproximadamente entre 20-30 amperes dependiendo la maquina que uses
-si es galvanizado usa un poco mas de amperaje para quemar el zinc.
Para quien ya tiene cierta experiencia esto parecería lógico, pero la gente se queda con dudas.
Que gacho que la mayoría de los videos que suben ( no solo tu, en general) solo buscan likes.
Saludos.
😂
🖖🏼
O seu comentário ficou mais completo, bem mais explicado do que o próprio vídeo, parabéns.
Obviamente es muy frío quizá 1/16 con 25 amps con electrodo 6013
6010 3/32 45 AMPERES. PUNTO RAPIDO.
Polaridad inversa (pinza porta electrodo en +) para disminuir el calor en la pieza
Ты сам сними свой видео и покажи людям, прежде чем умничать
Видео ни о чём.Какой ток,электрод,цинк не цинк и тп,ничего не рассказано.Кто знал как варить тот знает,кто не знал-так и останется секретом и учёба "методом тыка".
мажор
very good technique bro. thanks.
Thanks for the lesson. You make it look easy. 👍👍
Thanks for the tips and I hope you and the other viewers know how dangerous it is to weld galvanized metal...don't learn the hard way!
Your like saying dont do anything,... More dangerous that galva smoke
Your sign language is more understandable than some expert explaining this in English over 5 minutes. Subscribed.
The main secret to avoid blow hole in thin metal lies in the machine settings which most veterans in the industry never tells, swith from DCEP to DCEN current settings 35-38. Thanks 😉
I have a stick welding machine that doesn't have this setting. Can i just switch the cables?
@@MEOW-sh9qz yah! you just need to switch the electrode cable in your machine from positive to negative the same goes to ground cable from negative to positive
@@EsotericAlpha hi what size rod would you use?, 1.6 - 2 - 2.5 etc?
@@MEOW-sh9qz If you have an AC machine switching the cables makes no difference.
@@cruiser97eric1 it's an inverter welding machine
How many amps sir?
2.0 mm electrode are the real trick of this tutorial video if you want to weld some thinner material find a thinner electrode
Все верно👍
Flux core is like thin DC stick. I use it as my Ac welder runs too hot.
thin electrode=low amperage= less metal stress= good weld fusion on thinner material
What stick diameter and what amperage you use master tell please
Me imagino que el amperaje es lo más mínimo
2 points, always grind off the galvanised coating { not only does it contaminate the weld pool, the smoke is full of arsenic } and never ever grind the backbone off a stick weld, that is where the strength lies.
I would assume hes grinding the bead off to show the welds interior and in reality little strength comes from thr bead its all about the fusion and penetration if the joint is going to fail it with not be the weld but along the area the weld mixture meets the parent metal
Contamination isnt a problem its the fumes. Arc and mag welding isnt going to care. It might be a little harder to get it up to heat it up to temp for the first second or two, but galvanizing is so thin its going to just burn up and your going to breath in some toxins no matter the protection unless you are in a havoc suit with air flow. My first full time welding job was welding galvanized pipe to oily bent and stamp punched angle iron. That guy didnt care if we died the next day. Was alwaysnturning the exhause fans off. Intil one day he put a lock over the fan switches. Which started a strike that same day. And why would you ever want to tig weld a piece of galvanized metal? Which would probably burn just fine too its not aluminum.
I dont know his initial weld looked poor then suddenly he had it all ground already. I think this is edited to cut out mistakes as much as possible. So he ran multiple cover passes to fill in the undercut and porosity and more grinding. He still had a bunch of micro holes in it. The problem with porosity is. You can't just burn it out. It will just go back down into the weld and resurface in the cooling phase. It has to be ground out or cut out. Looked like he was welding with a little sparkler. So atleast it was funny. Have a great day..
The great thing about welding. Just grind it completely out and start over again.
This poor guy does more grinding than welding.
Sure needs a real welder to use and an oven to warm the humity out of his coated welding rods 80-85 degrees fahrenheit
@@w.f.productions7501 leaving the bead can make it weaker. Especially with a 6010 whip.
Most welds are not stress welds. They mostly just hold something in place without much weight or pressure on the part.
If it is a part with tremendous pressure. All stress points need to be removed. Can you guess the biggest stress point a crack will start?
Bonjour, merci pour vos vidéos elles sont bien, mais pourriez vous ajouter la taille des electrodes et le courant de soudage à titre d'informations. Cela completera parfaitement la vidéo
First technique, what amps you running ?
20a
MERGE SI CU 10 A CU ELECTROD DE 1,6 MM !
Setting the right current and selecting the right size rod is also very important.
it would be nice if he included that info
2,5mm 6013 it looks like
1. Zink abschleifen
2. Passende Elektrode 2-2.5 mm
3. Passende Ampere 60 - 80 testen
Zuvor üben auf gute Masse achten
Immer Abkühlen lassen > Verzug
Very nice BUT WHAT ARE THE SETTING ON THE WELDER? For the tin metal
Low as you can without getting stuck. Keep in mind worn out or cheap machines are going to give you a hard time especially with lower settings.
As low as you can go, as aculasbacca stated here, without the rod sticking. Typically about 20-30amps and usually never over 35amps max. And there's some other pro tips that help. You must use thin rod, like 1/16th only. Preferrably a rod that has low to medium penetration and isn't a violent, deep digging aggressive rod like 6010 or 6011. More like a 6013, which is typically what most people use for thin metal. You definitely want a fast freezing rod like the 60xx ones, but not an aggressive rod, as it will burn through/keyhole way too easily.
The key to success, is be patient and don't worry if you burn though, while practicing and multiple times too. It's inevitable and WILL happen. It's tricky and takes multiple attempts and changes in travel speed, distance from the metal and angle of the rod (although this guy's video helped and going on a more extreme slant angle, like he did, certainly does make a difference and I discovered this naturally). I was having a lot of trouble doing it how you would approach a thicker metal/weld, where the practice/recommendation is to position more upright and straighter with just a slight angle and rocking motion. Not here, that's actually harder and a steeper angled drag like this works well.
And as we know, long arcs/distance is not the way to make good penetration, clean nice welds, but with this, you have to defy some typical welding logic and break some rules, lol. That log arc and lower penetration/raised weld and spatter, is kind of a good thing here, because it helps avoid burn through/keyholing. Just have to make sure that you still are getting good penetration that's the only thing you should make sure you are getting and that, is the trickiest part, is getting the balance. It took me a few hours of practice to get it to where it was not keyholing, but getting good penetration too. It's a delicate balance and don't shoot for that right away in practice. Just get through it without burn through and get your travel/speed etc. right first (and it's rather fast with this, so be ready to move). Then worry about improving the strength of the weld/penetration as you get better at it. Trying to achieve everything at once, is too frustrating and hard. This is a process and failures and successes and taking it step by step. And you will fail, this is tricky. But once you get a feel for it and put all that together, as a comfortable process for yourself, you will be able to weld thin metal and have the "knack" for it.
Just be patient and practice, practice, practice. Even the pros who do videos on it, still burn through/keyhole the odd time. I was burning though lots at first and then as I got my travel, distance, power, angle etc. fine tuned, I burned though less and got longer, nicer welds without keyholing and then got better at penetration, because I noticed on my first attempts I wasn't getting full penetration and they were kinda weak. It's a timing thing, very much so. You have to know just how long to stay in the pool and then move and it's a very fast travel. Faster than you go with thicker rods and metal. They will always be higher raised welds and require more grinding/finishing, because the distance you have work at and long arcs, will just naturally do that and if you try to improve that too much, you may risk burn through and more frustration. So just be aware, that your welds on thin metal, may never be as nice and relatively flat as your thicker metal and rod welds, nor as pretty.
@@MrBilld75 очень хорошие советы, спасибо.
You may want to think about grinding off the galvanized coating first before welding it where it then becomes a toxic gas that you're breathing in and failing to tell yur students about. Just saying, as that would be the first thing a trained welder would teach a student before worrying about the metals thickness.
Thats very true
Correct! Galv flu
Quedó muy bueno, que amperaje usaste? Tierra en negativo o positivo?
Nice, watching from Bangladesh 🇧🇩🇧🇩
Terimakasih om. Manfaat sekali. Buat pemula seperti sy om........... 👍👍👍👍👍👍
That was impressive after you hit it with the grinder i was sold. Sometimes ya dont have access to the many tricks out there.. cool video
Yes speed and heat control (stick angle)are major factors when welding thin material . Great vid 👌 👍.
А можно под тонкий металл подложить толстый для теплоотвода ,если есть возможность.Об этом почему-то никто не говорит,а я делал и получалось,хотя сварщик я совсем неопытный.
Это не сварщик. А варило.... подложи теплоотвод, и с отрывом... :)
2 мм. электрод и обратную полярность 30- 40 А.
Талантливо объясняете👍
Faltou mostrar como voce regulou a maquina para o tipo de electrodo que usou para esta espessura do ferro.
salam saudara. Rod berapa mm? Api berapa amp? Mantap. Lagi mantap kalau berbagi settingnya bro.
Btul tuh,
Я метал ставлю под наклоном хоть вертикально . Электрод двойка , подбираю ток , и веду электрод С ВЕРХУ В НИЗ. без колебаний. Немножко тренировки и будете гордиться собой. Главное поймать скорость движения электрода😊
Great video I’ve learned a lot from it thank you 🙏
the only thing I got from this is that it's possible and use a low angled rod, what rod ? 6013 is what I have, because I learned that it's a low penatrating rod, what amp settting ?, and my welder is an AC cracker box, I can't switch to DC- as I was told in the other video I watched. I subscribed to your challel and I see that you have a ton of them so any help and recommendations you can give for someone with limited equipment would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
What is the Welding Rod guage and ampere settings?
So many comments about galvanizing being dangerously poisonous. The fumes can make you feel sick but they don’t cause permanent harm. Once you get out of the fumes the effects reverse. There’s no arsenic for example.
What rod are you using?
Lo único que le falta es especificar el diámetro del electrodo y el amperaje de la máquina
Hello, how many amps were set on the welding machine?
What was the stick welder set on and what brand/model?
What is your welding rod diameter
Вообще молодец! Аккуратно и без прожогов!
Ну, в целом понятно! Сначала надо указательным пальцем из стороны в сторону поводить, потом большой палец вверх поднять. А важно именно правой рукой это сделать, или левой тоже можно?
Cool technique but what rods and settings do you also need to use?
How many amps did you use? It is the most critical moment with such thickness.
Amigo eres UN GENIO quisiera aprender a hacer eso te felicito q equipo usas q electrodo q amperaje y q me recomiendas gr6
Hello,
Wouah, congratulations guy!
From France.😊
que amperaje utilizas, y donde colocas masa y portaelectrodo
С низу подкладка.Почему снизу не показали деталь?
Конечно. Как только этот автор пошел варить бкзотрывным швом, пусть даже и быстро, я сразу понял что он хитрит. 😊
And on the reverse side, what does that look like ?
nice weld is 6013 stick best to use?
Hi what is your setting? Starting arc ? Welding amp? Rutile? Thanks.
Thank you for the video. I'll try this soon.
Mantap 👍👍👍 tidak semua tukang las bisa melakukannya
Your stick welds looks better than most tig welds. Nice job.
Thank you, great video
What kind of setup was there pleae? Amperage, the stick was + or -? Thanks
Nice weld sir how about the strength of metal specially thin galvanized if the weld is full is that ok sir to full weld stick is also strong weld I want to know if the strength of thin metal is decreased or not
wow that's useful to know 👍😎
Welder settings? EN or P? Rod thickness?
Genious !... Which diameter you used 1.6mm and which amp? Salute you from Argentina
What rod would you use for that?
That's very impressive !
С отрывом у тебя по лучше выходит
What kind of rod you'd used,how many amperes?
Hey what setting you have an rod?
What are the Amps? DC or AC arc? Electro Positive?
What gauge welding rod did you use?
1.6mm rod
What ampage do u set welder too
How many amps.you use?
Amigo eres un verdadero no pensé que eso se podía hace me puedes decir qué equipo utilizaste qué amperaje y electrodo soy aficionado y principiante un abrazo desde Colombia
It’s not mentioned what setting to use on the welder.
I am learning how to welding. While welding electroc get stick again and again on metel. Am I doing mistake or its welding machine issue Please help
I don't know anything about this, but why isn't there some "amperage knob" to turn lower and adjust the power of the weld ?
My mouth is still hanging open.Great job.
You are really an expert
И еще далеко не все знают зачем варить тонкий металл толщиной 0.7 мм электродной сваркой.
Generally never weld over zinc. Remove it first.
Well when you start grinding the galvanized off the base metal before the weld the weld won't crack when you grind the galvanizing off after you weld.
Thanks for the videos buddy learning alot👍👍
what setting do you have the welder on?
What size Electroad ty
păi spune : ce electrozi folosești și la ce amperaj sudezi ,dacă ești așa mare meșter !!!
Para espesores muy finos es mejor usar otra tecnica de union o soldadura por TIG.
Pero que amperaje y electrodo debe usarse??
Cara,eu fico sem palavras,vc é um soldador simplesmente fantástico!!
Increíble amigo q máquina usas como está conectada q electrodo y que amperaje soy un aficionado saludos desde colombia
What is the volt and ampire !
Круто вийшло! 🖖🤘✌️🇺🇦
27 лет назад, смастерив себе трансформатор и взяв впервые в руки держак с четверкой, я заварил дно железной 40 литровой фляги
What kind of welding rod do you used?
6013
What No. Of rod you have used for thin sheets??¿??
what is electrode dimension, current?
Well done. That takes skill
What's the electric power ?
Thank you so much
very professional,it's alternating current.
Stick type? Current?
Considering the use of metric units, it's obvious that the uploader is a foreign man. In most countries, 6013s are the only electrodes for mild or structural steel.
thank you🙏