You're building a truck to the level where you should consider dry sump. You would be able to lower the engine, choose what oil capacity you want, and not worry about sloshing or oil starving. Another benefit of a dry sump system is that it pulls a slight vacuum on the crankcase to evacuate oil as well as blow by gasses.
@@Funtimes670 During the video I was thinking about total oil system capacity by adding large oil coolers and lines vs sump capacity. With a wet sump, total system capacity will help with oil temperature and increase the time between oil changes, but it won't help with starvation. That's because wet sump oil systems typically only have one pump. The one pump is usually connected directly to the pickup tube that is submerged in the wet sump. That means the filters, coolers, lines, and oil passages are all pressurised by the one pump. Air is compressible, so if any air gets into that pickup tube the entire oil system will loose pressure for a moment. Worst case scenario, the oil pump looses its prime and stops pumping, but that's not likely on modern cars. When the oil sloshes around, it also sloshes in the head under the valve cover, so some of your oil capacity could be momentarily "stuck" in the head before draining back down into the sump. A larger sump capacity reduces the chances of getting air in the pickup tube and increase the time the pump could run before the oil dripps back down into the sump. Now in a dry sump system there are two or more pumps. One pump is at the bottom of the oil pan that sucks up anything that gets in the oil pan and pushes it into a tank. The tank could be any capacity that fits in the vehicle, and is typically tall and narrow so any sloshing only happens at the top of the tank and never reaches the bottom. The second pump draws from the bottom of the tank and pressurises the oil systems.
Late summer 2024: After a summer long thrash, steps forward, setbacks, busted knuckles and greasy nights the Ugly Truck finally blasts to an 8.99 at the drags. LT retrieves the time slip and is euphoric as he reads the culmination of years of hard work. His mile wide grin fades on the way back to the pits though as he can't keep his mind from wandering to that subpar weld on one of the oil drain back tubes..... Seriously though, can't wait to see this thing run.
Seems like an accumulator would be your friend in this situation. They hold up to three quarts of oil. They can be used to prime the oil system prior to start up and you can set the valve in them to open if oil pressure ever drops below a number of your choice.
Extra oil in the pan is never a bad thing but you could also add a dual remote oil filter base and 2 giant filters to help with extra oil capacity & cooling.
It's a nightmare welding on used aluminum oil pans. Might do one or 2 here and there as a paying customer needs one but I would want to see up a side hustle doing them. He wouldn't be doing anything but cleaning oil pans.
With all of your efforts on the 8.1 line of engine , it really gives me ideas and keeps me tuned in ... I have an 03 Suburban 2500 with one and I plan to keep it till the body rot allows me to pull the engine (justification) ... So much great information watching your channel, thank you
I love watching you figure and fab this "stuff".... I ordered drop shackles and shock mounts for the 2005 Silverado 2500hd this afternoon. Took off the Fender flares this morning, I'm thinking they are staying off.....looks more my style.. Still have not installed the Cam, trying to coordinate the tuning... you know how it is.. Daydreaming of a Supercharger.... LOL
As others have said, look at an Accu-sump but if you do add the box, probably extend the top of the box inside the pan to create the baffle. Also, I would look at adding a couple "loud valves" to your down pipes leading to front fender dumps and something like a single 3" pipe leading to a single exhaust for quiet operation on the street. It's more stuff but might make packaging easier and might even weigh less than if you tried to make a 4" dual exhaust.
Best way to add oil is with a cooler. An oil cooler not only adds X amount of oil to the system, but they cool it as well. As a note doing this to a daily driver should include a temperature sensor bypass for cold weather driving.
I hope you added some blue Loctite or some green, holding compound to the oil pump, cover bolts, and I’ve actually had them vibrate loose. mine didn’t have any kind of lock washers on them. 12:50
Stock oil capacity on 8.1 7 qts . I have a cousin that built sprint car engines (Chevy small block 400) and he deburred all edges so that molecules in the castings wouldn’t bang into each other and would flow seamlessly around corners.
If the starter size is going to be an issue, check out a REMY 96206. It's a small case, permanent magnet gear reduction unit with 2.0kw power output. It's just under $100 at the Rock
So if I understand correctly, you're gonna increase the oil capacity and ditch the windage tray? Interesting! It's so good when you have seasoned pros to turn to, and now you've even shared that with us.
Ya i hear lots of guys run an extra quart or 2 and there is the Reservoir i forgot how its plumbed but what i rember is it stores pressurized oil so more capacity and if you did lose oil pressure it would keep the system pressurized for a moment or 2
I think you’re going about this in the right manner. Obviously, there’s just a lot of custom work that has to go into this build. While watching this video, I was thinking how great it is that you’ve got the shop now because I don’t see how you could have done a build like this in that garage at your old house in Utah.
Could you add a reservoir tank for oil like they do on drag boats? Then you wouldn’t have to alter the pan. Could put it in line with a drain from turbo or both or its own drain back.
I know it's not ls based But my 6.0 l77 has 8 qts capacity. For you twin turbos you may need a tank of oil with pump and cooling. I know it's complicated & if you had to you could widen the base of the oil pan on each side. You will figure it out. Besafe team .
Have you considered something like an accusump? Might alleviate most of the risk with a lot less work. Seems like extra space in the pan would just provide additional area for oil to pool under high G
Have you thought about running a remote oil filter set up, you could use two filters to increase your oil capacity? Just a thought. Good luck. Great content.
LT, as others have said and Accusump could do the job. A mate built a 'eu spider' style buggy with a transverse 2wd V6+gbox. He couldn't fit a bigger sump and went to an Accusump. You can package it easier and gain the volume you want.
I saw the sump fab video first and didn’t understand why you didn’t just add an accusump, now I get it, because I have seen baffles that actually starve the pump and blow motors. IMO OEM style baffles are best, most aftermarket I see are worse in the real world.
Hey L.T. I’m no genius but I’m pretty sure if u run 7 1/2 - 8qts u will be just fine with the stock pan. Won’t affect anything and u should never run short on oil
Did you consider putting a like wing on the other side? I have seen aftermarket pans that have blisters on both sides of the bottom of the pan to increase oil capacity.
That’s a small pump body compared to the old big block HV 5 bolt Mellings pump of past years Will it be pumping enough oil to keep the engine and twins pressurised ?
C'mon. Don't be a chicken. You gor plenty of room out back. Make it a mid-engine drag truck. How hard could it be? Jk. Love the channel. Keep up the great work.
You know I heard was great for Chevy big blocks? If you blow some aluminum shavings into the bottom end it will add 300 HP. Looks like you heard that before too... LMAO 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Pat Topolinski🤯 glad you kept your former coworker phone number.
Pat is the man
@@Bryan-FAA-certifiedhe's as sharp as a tack
@@assaultlick2169 I guess it's better than sharp as a bag of wet mice
I never seen a man, wearing a pocket protector, look as cool as Pat does do it.
@kevenhiemie always trust a mechanic w8th that many miniature tools in his pocket
Pat is such a wealth of knowledge. Glad you made that friendship.
I can only imagine how cool it is to have Pat Topo on speed dial.
You're building a truck to the level where you should consider dry sump. You would be able to lower the engine, choose what oil capacity you want, and not worry about sloshing or oil starving. Another benefit of a dry sump system is that it pulls a slight vacuum on the crankcase to evacuate oil as well as blow by gasses.
My thoughts exactly.
Absolutely. Gain power, less windage heat and no chance of oil starvation.
In addition to the dry sump would a large filtration like a clear view filter set up give a little more capacity?
@@Funtimes670 During the video I was thinking about total oil system capacity by adding large oil coolers and lines vs sump capacity. With a wet sump, total system capacity will help with oil temperature and increase the time between oil changes, but it won't help with starvation. That's because wet sump oil systems typically only have one pump. The one pump is usually connected directly to the pickup tube that is submerged in the wet sump. That means the filters, coolers, lines, and oil passages are all pressurised by the one pump. Air is compressible, so if any air gets into that pickup tube the entire oil system will loose pressure for a moment. Worst case scenario, the oil pump looses its prime and stops pumping, but that's not likely on modern cars. When the oil sloshes around, it also sloshes in the head under the valve cover, so some of your oil capacity could be momentarily "stuck" in the head before draining back down into the sump. A larger sump capacity reduces the chances of getting air in the pickup tube and increase the time the pump could run before the oil dripps back down into the sump.
Now in a dry sump system there are two or more pumps. One pump is at the bottom of the oil pan that sucks up anything that gets in the oil pan and pushes it into a tank. The tank could be any capacity that fits in the vehicle, and is typically tall and narrow so any sloshing only happens at the top of the tank and never reaches the bottom. The second pump draws from the bottom of the tank and pressurises the oil systems.
I completely agree.
Pat! What a guest appearance!
Shout out to Pat Topolinski! The dude knows his engines!!👍👍
Late summer 2024: After a summer long thrash, steps forward, setbacks, busted knuckles and greasy nights the Ugly Truck finally blasts to an 8.99 at the drags.
LT retrieves the time slip and is euphoric as he reads the culmination of years of hard work. His mile wide grin fades on the way back to the pits though as he can't keep his mind from wandering to that subpar weld on one of the oil drain back tubes.....
Seriously though, can't wait to see this thing run.
Seems like an accumulator would be your friend in this situation.
They hold up to three quarts of oil. They can be used to prime the oil system prior to start up and you can set the valve in them to open if oil pressure ever drops below a number of your choice.
Extra oil in the pan is never a bad thing but you could also add a dual remote oil filter base and 2 giant filters to help with extra oil capacity & cooling.
I’ve had more than enough cut fingers because someone (namely me) was too lazy to de-burr things. Please keep up the good work.
LT's Custom Oil Pans. No doubt you've got plenty of spare time for another business opportunity. Great content as always.
It's a nightmare welding on used aluminum oil pans. Might do one or 2 here and there as a paying customer needs one but I would want to see up a side hustle doing them. He wouldn't be doing anything but cleaning oil pans.
With all of your efforts on the 8.1 line of engine , it really gives me ideas and keeps me tuned in ... I have an 03 Suburban 2500 with one and I plan to keep it till the body rot allows me to pull the engine (justification) ... So much great information watching your channel, thank you
Take the donor 5.3 and stick it in that Geo Tracker!
Hell yeah !
I love watching you figure and fab this "stuff".... I ordered drop shackles and shock mounts for the 2005 Silverado 2500hd this afternoon. Took off the Fender flares this morning, I'm thinking they are staying off.....looks more my style.. Still have not installed the Cam, trying to coordinate the tuning... you know how it is.. Daydreaming of a Supercharger.... LOL
As others have said, look at an Accu-sump but if you do add the box, probably extend the top of the box inside the pan to create the baffle.
Also, I would look at adding a couple "loud valves" to your down pipes leading to front fender dumps and something like a single 3" pipe leading to a single exhaust for quiet operation on the street. It's more stuff but might make packaging easier and might even weigh less than if you tried to make a 4" dual exhaust.
My favorite build yet! And so cool to hear you keep in contact with Pat!
Pat Topolonski is a badass, no doubt. It’s cool you guys are good friends. 👍🏼
Oil pan fun. Lots of concepts I have never thought about on take off. Thank you for this wonderful content.
I love it that you called Pat and had that call on the video!!! Sweet!!!
I always look forward to your videos
FWIW, your OCD is why I subscribed… your attention to detail is always top notch.
GM really kept it old school with that oil pump
Nice job on the internal weld, I learned that for vacuum gear but it just makes sense for almost anything.
Best way to add oil is with a cooler. An oil cooler not only adds X amount of oil to the system, but they cool it as well. As a note doing this to a daily driver should include a temperature sensor bypass for cold weather driving.
Love to hear from Pat. What a legend. Another Great video LT
Love the 8.1L stuff, maybe one day I will find a donor and the right truck. I think I'd need about 6-7 GMT800s to have every version I want.
Tape off blue flames And flat black this truck , whoa it's gonna be fast
Glad to see the collaboration
For welding cast aluminum, i find welding at 400 Hz helps. The higher frequency helps reduce the impurity issues.
I hope you added some blue Loctite or some green, holding compound to the oil pump, cover bolts, and I’ve actually had them vibrate loose. mine didn’t have any kind of lock washers on them. 12:50
Stock oil capacity on 8.1 7 qts . I have a cousin that built sprint car engines (Chevy small block 400) and he deburred all edges so that molecules in the castings wouldn’t bang into each other and would flow seamlessly around corners.
I think you need to consider a dry sump system. I feel like you're going to do all this work to the oil pan for little gain.
An oil accumulator would also help with oil pressure at take off.
Pat is a cool dude
It's pretty common for traditional bug blocks running high volume pumps to restrict the oil to the top end might want to look into that
If the starter size is going to be an issue, check out a REMY 96206. It's a small case, permanent magnet gear reduction unit with 2.0kw power output. It's just under $100 at the Rock
Could you just run an accusump? Maybe that would allow you to not have to modify the oil pan?
Cannot wait to see the truck is finished, Beast Mode!
Have you thought about using an Accusump?
With a good baffle he shouldn’t need and and it would probably be smarter to then go to drysump if a baffle doesn’t work
So if I understand correctly, you're gonna increase the oil capacity and ditch the windage tray? Interesting! It's so good when you have seasoned pros to turn to, and now you've even shared that with us.
Engine build sounds like it's a beast
636 👍's up LT thank you for sharing 🤗
Ya i hear lots of guys run an extra quart or 2 and there is the Reservoir i forgot how its plumbed but what i rember is it stores pressurized oil so more capacity and if you did lose oil pressure it would keep the system pressurized for a moment or 2
I think you’re going about this in the right manner. Obviously, there’s just a lot of custom work that has to go into this build.
While watching this video, I was thinking how great it is that you’ve got the shop now because I don’t see how you could have done a build like this in that garage at your old house in Utah.
Could you add a reservoir tank for oil like they do on drag boats? Then you wouldn’t have to alter the pan. Could put it in line with a drain from turbo or both or its own drain back.
Good ol Pat!
I know it's not ls based
But my 6.0 l77 has 8 qts capacity.
For you twin turbos you may need a tank of oil with pump and cooling.
I know it's complicated & if you had to you could widen the base of the oil pan on each side.
You will figure it out.
Besafe team .
Have you considered something like an accusump? Might alleviate most of the risk with a lot less work. Seems like extra space in the pan would just provide additional area for oil to pool under high G
Have you thought about running a remote oil filter set up, you could use two filters to increase your oil capacity? Just a thought. Good luck. Great content.
Another great video.
Awesome job Lt
LT, as others have said and Accusump could do the job. A mate built a 'eu spider' style buggy with a transverse 2wd V6+gbox. He couldn't fit a bigger sump and went to an Accusump. You can package it easier and gain the volume you want.
I think return fitting below oil level better not disturbing oil stabilization in pan....
I saw the sump fab video first and didn’t understand why you didn’t just add an accusump, now I get it, because I have seen baffles that actually starve the pump and blow motors. IMO OEM style baffles are best, most aftermarket I see are worse in the real world.
A four inch down pipe for one side of the engine is a little overkill don’t you think?
There's a couple companies that make a tubular crossmember that goes under the pan that might give you some more room
Dry sump? Maybe the front of the pan can be enlarged to get what you need?
Its not OCD to chamfer edges on a pan. That's weight savings. Every little bit counts 😂
Hey L.T. I’m no genius but I’m pretty sure if u run 7 1/2 - 8qts u will be just fine with the stock pan. Won’t affect anything and u should never run short on oil
More efficient to go big single turbo. Most people I see run it to the place you selected but its a single massive turbo.
Nice welds bro
Hello LT you could just run an ACCUSUMP OIL ACCUMULATOR with the extra oil and it will always be there.
i wish youd do more with the 8.1 like post more often youre busy man i get it glad to see the channel and shop growing though keep grinding brother
Did you consider putting a like wing on the other side? I have seen aftermarket pans that have blisters on both sides of the bottom of the pan to increase oil capacity.
I thought that it was a rule that you had to put 10 pens in your front shirt pocket when you talked to Pat.
are you following the 8.1 c8 corvette built? hell of a 8.1! Wish you could put one of those high tech 8.1 D.I in a street truck.
What about an oil accumulator system as an insurance policy to prevent oil starvation?
That's pat!
Nice! I have that same torque wrench. Click!
Hi Pat!
Goodshit máa boy keep it pushing 💪🏽😛
That’s a small pump body compared to the old big block HV 5 bolt Mellings pump of past years
Will it be pumping enough oil to keep the engine and twins pressurised ?
I was wondering if you can just buy a 7 Quart oil pan.
Aluminum alloy pistons, even with high brass content, make me worry. I know its good for revs, but that cylinder pressure.... oof.
Much gooder is a better saying lol
Twin Turbo vs. Supercharger.
Considering the limited space , a supercharger would be my first choice.
Have you met LT? He doesn't pick the easiest route on purpose LOL
@@SuburbanK2500 True statement
Why not try a dry sump oil system?
11:05 I love you
What about a powermaster mini starter?
Half the “fun/frustration” is finding out how well you can actually do work on it later.
Would it help if you made a tubular cross member to replace the original?
Why not use a accusunp accumulator instead of adding more pan volume
What about using a centrifugal supercharger????
Way not oilless turbos ?
Also can ran watercoold ?
what windage tray are you using in your engine I’m building a 4.5” stroke 8.8L PSI based engine and the factory 8.1 windage won’t fit.
PROBABLY OCD???….😂😂😂😂😂
Hay LT do you have a different employee. For some reason that looks some one other than usual.
Stef's oil pan?
Hey LT what ever happened too your partner on trucks. I think he was the last guy you worked with before you left Power Nation
How's the S10 coming?
C'mon. Don't be a chicken. You gor plenty of room out back. Make it a mid-engine drag truck. How hard could it be? Jk. Love the channel. Keep up the great work.
They are all 8 sec if the cliff is high enough😂
11:08 "click" hahahahaha torqued to spec
You know I heard was great for Chevy big blocks? If you blow some aluminum shavings into the bottom end it will add 300 HP. Looks like you heard that before too... LMAO 🤣🤣🤣🤣
for the noobs, Pat has appeared before when LT was building the ugly truck
Long block is too far back for twin turbos
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
You haven’t went cheap on the engine this far, why cheap out on oil system? Go with a dry sump.
Ever thought about D R Y S U M P?????
Man you don't finish anything you build