I was deeply saddened when I unearthed my ancient ps2 and each controller had dead buttons. It's now 1AM and I completely understand how to fix them and why they are broke. You are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks.
Best video I have come across diagnosing, explaining the fixing this problem. Coincidentally I found a spare near new PS2 controller was only partially working after 10 years in a box when firing my PS2 back to life.
It are videos like this that have most value to me! A PS2 controller fully explained! Also I like the fact that after the original connector gets replaced, all you need is to switch the plastic button PCB without soldering anymore...
Hey, this is a great video! I've spent far too many hours learning about how common an issue this is in the last couple of weeks after I found almost all of my old ps2 controllers no longer work. There isn't much information on this repair online but this video contains everything I needed, thanks soo much for your time to show how this is done
your video is fantastic, don't answer trolls who can’t see a 38 minute video, but can spend 7 hours marathon netflix with dubious tv shows. BTW I did exactly what you did, I soldered the 18-pin connector to the right of the contacts perfectly, but sadly all the ribbon cables I bought didn't work, some have all buttons activated and others the arrows are inverted.
If the "down" and "right" arrows are switched then you used the SA1Q42A layout foil thingy instead of the SA1Q43A one. I also ordered 30 "42" ones for my repairs and now another batch of "43"s. Fot the "42" ones I will try to cut the connector apart with a scalpel to switch leads number 5 and 6 from the right - then laminate the cable (not the connector part!) with sticky tape and see if it works. If you look at photos of the two kinds (I checked them on aliexpress where I also ordered them), then you will see how the layout is changed so that basically only the leads #5 and #6 are switched. Maybe I'll leave an answer in a few weeks once my parts arrived from overseas, however maybe the idea already helps you along, I hope. ;)
Thank you so much for this video, I couldn't get any 0241 membranes and you have confirmed what I hoped, that I could use another version. Spares ordered, controllers will live again. Thank you.
Hey there! I have a "broken" PS2 controller with the latch build. So what type of PCB should I order to fix it? Does SA1Q43A applies for that, or is it something different? By the way I don't see any model name on the PCB :( What serial number is written on your PCB, which applies to the latch structure?
This is an amazing video, thank you for this great info! Crazy they didn't use the 1st pin, yet they had that connection line going all over to nowhere!
Thanks for sharing.. a technicia friend of mine recommended to look for the M model for the ps2.. i got one around 2014 and still using it to this day.. Just got lucky i guess..
Since the resistance is high on carbon contacts. I had done some research on carbon conductive paint. I will be buying some this week and will use some on all carbon contacts on membrane. To see if it will bring the unresponsive membrane back to life!
Hi, can you say why you found the model 42A is not good and it needs to be the 43A ? FYI the ribbon in my H model, in the corner is a number 11 12 13 14 15 16, the other corner is 3B or 38. Thanks for all the video's explaining and helping us repair our stuff.
Huge thanks for sharing your expertise and experience in this video. Amazingly, I have two model H controllers that happened to break around the same time, in the exact same way. With both, they show the same symptoms as in this video, where start, select and the analogs work, but only square and right on the d-pad do anything, no other buttons function. Since both weren't working in the same way, I assumed that somehow the Playstation 2 Console I have is somehow incompatible with my two model H controllers. Researching this topic brought up many unrelated issues, and this is the first video I've found that showed the same symptoms I encountered. Many thanks again for your professional guidance here! However, is there any way to salvage the original plastic PCB circuit boards at all? Would adding graphite from a pencil improve the conductivity, or help restore the needed resistance to fix this problem? Since so many of the replacement ribbon circuit boards seem to come faulty, it's too much of a gamble to try and buy a working replacement. In the meantime, I'm using two model A's that are way older than my two model H's, and those A models still work great. The only downside is that the model A's buttons all feel spongier when compared with model H's. Would be thrilled to restore them if at all possible.
So as far a where to order, each time I do the previous seller is gone, I use Aliexpress, there is no way to fix the original ribbons they have to go, also I have a pretty extensive play list about the topic and I show the parts I use and how, I advise you all go back and check those videos, is all about PS2 controllers ONLY.
the worst control model ever and I have one lol I need advanced solder skills and equipment to fix mine, your video is amazing and informative, it can save countless model H controllers since SONY stopped manufacturing these.
Love this video!! Could you recommend a reliable source you use to find parts like this for the ps2 controller parts? Also what is the name of the software you used to test the controller? That was awesome! Thank you so much again for this video!
Do you have any for sale? I currently have 2 controllers not working and my soldering skills are no good. I'm looking for quality rebuilt units for my ps2 enjoyment
I have a brand new (old stock) PS2 controller that has been sitting in the box since I bought my PS2 slim. It was never even taken out of its plastic bag. Yet several buttons/d-pad directions don't work when I tried it recently. After doing some research I learned that the PS3 controllers also stop working due to sheer age. Really sucks that Sony didn't make their controllers more durable when you have much older NES controllers that still work perfectly fine. We can only hope that PS4 and PS5 controllers don't have the same issues as the PS2 and PS3 ones.
I have bad new for you, as you pointed out with the PS3 controllers just stopped working even if you do not use it due to age, the same happens to the PS4 and PS5, I actually fix pretty much everything retro, I just never upload the vids, but I can tell for after fixing several thousands Sony controllers, that is an issue, however, is most cases you can fix it by cleaning the controller ribbon where it connects to the board and that fixed the issue on the PS3, PS$ and PS5's
Well there's only so much you can do when your buttons are pressure sensitive (which both PS2 and PS3 have). The buttons on the NES controllers and the like are simply on or off, they don't have to worry about resistance changing because all you're doing is jumping connections together.
Picked some of these replacement membranes up a while ago. Only started trying to fix a half dozen controllers today. What I'm finding is more often than not the R2/L2 buttons need way more pressure to activate than the original Sony membranes. No amount of trimming seems to help.
Really helped me to know how it works. Have a bunch of controllers none work, and where I live in Caribbean , there are few techs. Where can these parts be found?
Thank you, mine goes to electrical recycling. Might just check though if some of the silicon pads will be of use in my DS4, Dpad mould at least looks like it could be a replacement. Already had to buy a set once.
This is good information the pads seems to deteriorate and the symptoms of all button non responsive are common I bought some cheap aftermarket ds2 and the sticks have massive dead zones and is way too sensitive and the shells are very thin and brittle too bad the genuine ones are so annoying to fix
Nice video Will you provide links for buying all your replaceable parts for PCBs, PCB connectors and replacement PS2 controller cords? SA1Q42-A PCB's will work too with those sockets SA1Q43-A PCBs also compatible with late versions of PS2 A controllers =) Lots of respect all the way from New Zealand
@@runarquista2755 Oops, I mistyped SQ1Q42-A is actually SA1Q42-A Both SA1Q42-A and SA1Q43-A are not fixed to the socket pinned on the circuit board therefore can be removed from the ribbon socket without soldering at all If yr PS2 controller is H or certain A version (not the 1 with the foam to help PCB make contact with the pins to the circuit board) you can use both PCB's I've mentioned with the ribbon rocket shown in this video for H controllers otherwise u can replace PCB with a new 1 by reinserting the new PCB in the ribbon socket for the latter A controller I mentioned Hoped I cleared things up =)
I actually just fixed my old broken ps2 controllers with this same issue and my fix was as simple as using rubbing alcohol and cleaning the board on all 3 of them.
@@agustin8160 That should work, Or you can soak it in it too but just make sure its completely dry before trying to put it back together and plug it in.
Im planning on ordering a couple to fix my controllers, however I was wondering if these new membranes are pressure sensitive like the original ones? Have you tested that out? An answer would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, it’s not worth the membrane that does the pressure sensitivity, but the round black dot on the silicon pads, the harder the press they deform and expand thus touching more membrane and increasing the resistance.
Thanks for this great video. I searched for PS2 button repair because I started playing my PS2 now that I have a Retrotink 5k, but the D pad feels kind of hard to use and my thumb is sore. I'm not sure if it's the age of my 24 year old controller or if my old hands aren't used to the D-pad. Any advice?
I don't have one of those hot air soldering irons... I tried to use a regular soldering iron and I think the pads came off with the connector because it's all brown. I ruined it didn't I? This is probably the second thing I've ever attempted to solder, haha.. I'm a newbie.
Is it normal for the second circle to only show left/right movement yet the right stick clearly has 2 functioning axes of movement in the bars? Trying to figure out my own controllers, have an A type that's doing that.
I have an issue that i dont understand. I bought a refurbished ps2 controller from germany, it looks brand new but the only issue is that the X and O buttons arent pressure sensitive at all. The controller is completely clean, i open it up and nothing looks out of the ordinary. All of the buttons work fine except X and O and i cant figure out why
Alot of my H ps2 controllers have a conductive film that have the number “0241” i have bought the SA1Q43a films for replacements since i cant find anything on 0241 films. Will these still work for my controllers?
is it possible to solder on that white latched ribbon connector to the other pin connector location? Id imagine it should be fine. Ill try it myself once i can get my hands on a replacement part (but I dont know the component name) my motherboard has the 2 pins for securing it, though hot glue could work if the 2 side pins arent there.
how do you know the right circuit board model for a H model? There's SA1Q42A and SA1Q43A, but no way of knowing which is the best for a H model Does it matter which connector you get? 18 pin or 19 pin? I have 3 H models and every single one of their circuit boards has diferent types (JK, F and BC, 5A to 4B, that's all the circuit board says) If I buy a 10-pack of those spare circuit boards, will they work? thanks
if you bridge both sides of one of the buttonstraces, the button should be on constantly unless the bridge is broken right? if so could you solder 2 small wires onto the 18 pin connector and connect them to another button, to make a paddle mod? normally people just use custom flex pcbs but there are none for ps2 and i know you wouldnt be able to easily modify one of these flex pcbs so i figure if you solder onto the actual connector maybe it would work
really detailed tutorial! i have a question, for which controller would the 42-A be used?? it is usually sold on the same "shop" on ali and they kinda look similar
Hey! Did you upload a video for A models too? I have problems with some buttons on it, my x button is working if i press it hard and the O button is acting like an x button? D pad up and down doesnt work. Triangle and square arent responding. The left analog stick is stuck going downwards. Is this something thats impossible to fix by my self? I have another A model controller that works perfectly fine.
Found the video, will watch and come back to this comment when Ive tried one last attempt to fix it. Edit: so Ive watched it, seems like I need to buy a new membrane. Would still have problem with analog stick though. Another question, i see that all the circuit boards is clean in your video, mine had brown/orange kinda see trough stuff at some spots around the whole circuit board. Is it normal or is it a damage of some sort? Like coke?
Ok my problem is i static chocked my controller. My R3 button no longer responding so i changed analogy stick no luck same no R3 response. So maybe my static shock kills some chip or something do u have any idea
I bought a set of SA1Q42A foils via AliExpress, but „down“ and“right“are switched. I have two controllers, both have right on pin 6 and down on pin 7 ( counting from left). The new foils have down on pin 6 and right on pin 7. Anyone else came across this. Not sure what SA1Q42 to order now...
Leaves me wondering if you could scrape the resistors off/open from the original film so that the circuit would now be open and make it so that it only closes when the button is pressed. Just like the start and select buttons? Could that work in theory?
Not really because no button aligns with the position of the contacts, you would need to drill a hole in the case and make a new button hole and add a silicon pad
Wow thanks you just save me from trying to clean with isopropyl alcohol my 8 faulty ps1-ps2 controllers. Btw Wich membrane is needed for a ps1 controller?
I came across a controller , where the ribbon is just pressed on,no solder or connector. And is the same problem noted in the cheap OEM controllers? Will be trying to watch all your videos. Thanks for your hard work and content, very helpful.
Hi, I am exclusively work on first party Sony controllers only btw, also the model A is the one with the pressed ribbon cable, I covered those as well.
Hey great video! This H controllers tend to fault all in the same way... but where did you find the pin connectors and pcb? Appreciate if you could give us a link. Greetings from Italy :D
huh film pad is not held by that black piece on my controller. just pushed onto the board when u close the controller. much like how the ps3 and 4 controller is. for whatever reason my l3 is not working as well :/
Hi again I have a question what the problem went you have a ps2 motor that spin slow I have a new one it work in one board good but I use the same one in another board and spin slow this new motor you think is the board right left is ok right spin slow
I don't understand why the connector has to be removed? The cable just unplugs. Could you not just leave the old connector and slide the replacement ribbon straight in? Also it would be great to hear an explanation as to all the different types of controllers and which ribbons are compatible with which controllers. etc. Oh, ok. I just heard you are doing a full series of all the different controllers. Nice! Still not sure why you changed the connector. No flux?
On all Pins (of these 18) ther is a little bit of Power. Can you discripe in detail how the Controler Chip is read the Data? I am verry confused. Thank you for your Video. Can you say frow withch shop you buy your Button foil? I found it on Amazon, Ebay, Aliexpress. I dont know witch are the best ones. My englisch is terrible. Sorry aboud that. You are amazing. Thanks for making this Video
Love your vids! Inspired me to buy a bulk pack of 27 'broken' PS2 controllers on ebay instead of paying a premium for a couple good ones. Can you upload a copy of KADE (kick ass dynamic encoder) software you're using? Their domain is down and I can't find the download anywhere. The Windows game controller/device manager works but I don't like the interface as much.
Hi, I have a model H and I raplaced the flex but the buttons press themselves, I don't why but I have changed the flex many times and nothing. Help!!!! What's the name of the program that you use and the adapter?
Oh, you are a feren os user, dont know if i ever gonna use it, im here for cable replacement for my second ps2 i think series A controller. And its in a box in the basement. ;)
I don't, when they are in really bad shape, they get dismantled and every single piece gets bagged, tagged used on the next one that needs it, to me, one "spare" can fix 4-5 others.
Hey are you still repairing PS2 controllers ? I have 1 model H and two after market contollers. i was wondering if youd repair them if you still have the parts
They are still being fixed but not by me, all these videos I made to train others who now do that, and we don’t fix 3rd party ones unless we collect multiples so they can be used for parts.
Hey man, shouldnt you start a second hand store or something? I bet there are lots of people that wanna relive their childhood.. i would pay atleast 15 to 25 bucks for 1 controller. Edit: damn.. i just heard you say only 10 to 15 worked out of 100 you bought..
hello sorry for my english but i am french i have 3 controller 1 type A with tape solder this it s ok and 2 type H with tape clip this 2 controlers not function i buy 2 models of electrical circuit 1 SA-1Q43-A and SA-1Q42-A but they have 18 lines my controlers have 19 line it s my probleme Has you solution please??
I was deeply saddened when I unearthed my ancient ps2 and each controller had dead buttons. It's now 1AM and I completely understand how to fix them and why they are broke. You are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks.
Best video I have come across diagnosing, explaining the fixing this problem. Coincidentally I found a spare near new PS2 controller was only partially working after 10 years in a box when firing my PS2 back to life.
It are videos like this that have most value to me! A PS2 controller fully explained! Also I like the fact that after the original connector gets replaced, all you need is to switch the plastic button PCB without soldering anymore...
Hey, this is a great video! I've spent far too many hours learning about how common an issue this is in the last couple of weeks after I found almost all of my old ps2 controllers no longer work. There isn't much information on this repair online but this video contains everything I needed, thanks soo much for your time to show how this is done
incredible video - thanks a lot man 🤘
it's really annoying how buried this video is
timing also couldn't be better .. me and a friend recently got some PS2s, and .. all the joysticks are super-dead
this'll save me countless hours ..
your video is fantastic, don't answer trolls who can’t see a 38 minute video, but can spend 7 hours marathon netflix with dubious tv shows. BTW I did exactly what you did, I soldered the 18-pin connector to the right of the contacts perfectly, but sadly all the ribbon cables I bought didn't work, some have all buttons activated and others the arrows are inverted.
If the "down" and "right" arrows are switched then you used the SA1Q42A layout foil thingy instead of the SA1Q43A one. I also ordered 30 "42" ones for my repairs and now another batch of "43"s. Fot the "42" ones I will try to cut the connector apart with a scalpel to switch leads number 5 and 6 from the right - then laminate the cable (not the connector part!) with sticky tape and see if it works. If you look at photos of the two kinds (I checked them on aliexpress where I also ordered them), then you will see how the layout is changed so that basically only the leads #5 and #6 are switched.
Maybe I'll leave an answer in a few weeks once my parts arrived from overseas, however maybe the idea already helps you along, I hope. ;)
@@ozzybwild I bought 50 of the 43 model, hoping that only a few would work for my 6 controllers, and surprisingly the first 6 worked.
Dude, your video helped me bring 4 controllers back to life, thank you soooo much!
Peace!!
Thank you so much for this video, I couldn't get any 0241 membranes and you have confirmed what I hoped, that I could use another version. Spares ordered, controllers will live again. Thank you.
I hadn't known how to test the tape from my controller until I watched your tutorial. Thanks a lot.
Hey there!
I have a "broken" PS2 controller with the latch build. So what type of PCB should I order to fix it? Does SA1Q43A applies for that, or is it something different? By the way I don't see any model name on the PCB :(
What serial number is written on your PCB, which applies to the latch structure?
This is an amazing video, thank you for this great info!
Crazy they didn't use the 1st pin, yet they had that connection line going all over to nowhere!
Thanks for sharing.. a technicia friend of mine recommended to look for the M model for the ps2.. i got one around 2014 and still using it to this day.. Just got lucky i guess..
Since the resistance is high on carbon contacts. I had done some research on carbon conductive paint. I will be buying some this week and will use some on all carbon contacts on membrane. To see if it will bring the unresponsive membrane back to life!
Love to know what you find, I have like 600 of them that need that one resistor bridged.
@mwsm
Did it the conductive paint solve the issue?
Did it work ?
Did it work?
Hi, can you say why you found the model 42A is not good and it needs to be the 43A ?
FYI the ribbon in my H model, in the corner is a number 11 12 13 14 15 16, the other corner is 3B or 38.
Thanks for all the video's explaining and helping us repair our stuff.
Huge thanks for sharing your expertise and experience in this video. Amazingly, I have two model H controllers that happened to break around the same time, in the exact same way. With both, they show the same symptoms as in this video, where start, select and the analogs work, but only square and right on the d-pad do anything, no other buttons function. Since both weren't working in the same way, I assumed that somehow the Playstation 2 Console I have is somehow incompatible with my two model H controllers.
Researching this topic brought up many unrelated issues, and this is the first video I've found that showed the same symptoms I encountered. Many thanks again for your professional guidance here!
However, is there any way to salvage the original plastic PCB circuit boards at all? Would adding graphite from a pencil improve the conductivity, or help restore the needed resistance to fix this problem? Since so many of the replacement ribbon circuit boards seem to come faulty, it's too much of a gamble to try and buy a working replacement.
In the meantime, I'm using two model A's that are way older than my two model H's, and those A models still work great. The only downside is that the model A's buttons all feel spongier when compared with model H's. Would be thrilled to restore them if at all possible.
So as far a where to order, each time I do the previous seller is gone, I use Aliexpress, there is no way to fix the original ribbons they have to go, also I have a pretty extensive play list about the topic and I show the parts I use and how, I advise you all go back and check those videos, is all about PS2 controllers ONLY.
the worst control model ever and I have one lol I need advanced solder skills and equipment to fix mine, your video is amazing and informative, it can save countless model H controllers since SONY stopped manufacturing these.
Love this video!! Could you recommend a reliable source you use to find parts like this for the ps2 controller parts? Also what is the name of the software you used to test the controller? That was awesome! Thank you so much again for this video!
Do you have any for sale? I currently have 2 controllers not working and my soldering skills are no good. I'm looking for quality rebuilt units for my ps2 enjoyment
I have a brand new (old stock) PS2 controller that has been sitting in the box since I bought my PS2 slim. It was never even taken out of its plastic bag. Yet several buttons/d-pad directions don't work when I tried it recently. After doing some research I learned that the PS3 controllers also stop working due to sheer age. Really sucks that Sony didn't make their controllers more durable when you have much older NES controllers that still work perfectly fine. We can only hope that PS4 and PS5 controllers don't have the same issues as the PS2 and PS3 ones.
I have bad new for you, as you pointed out with the PS3 controllers just stopped working even if you do not use it due to age, the same happens to the PS4 and PS5, I actually fix pretty much everything retro, I just never upload the vids, but I can tell for after fixing several thousands Sony controllers, that is an issue, however, is most cases you can fix it by cleaning the controller ribbon where it connects to the board and that fixed the issue on the PS3, PS$ and PS5's
It's common that the foam pressing the flex cable onto the board has gone flat just disassemble and pad it
Well there's only so much you can do when your buttons are pressure sensitive (which both PS2 and PS3 have). The buttons on the NES controllers and the like are simply on or off, they don't have to worry about resistance changing because all you're doing is jumping connections together.
Superb video! What is the OHM resistance supposed to be for the small connection next to start/select buttons?! Thanks!!!
Thanks, I finally know why both of my controllers aren't working despite cleaning the contacts
20:04 You can try to repair those bad parts. One way is to use pencil, until you get proper resistance. Another way is to solder SMD resistor.
what is an SMD resistor?
@@zadock8658 Check in google, then click on graphics.
Thank you very much, it helped me to fix my controller, I will not play but its a nice hobby
Picked some of these replacement membranes up a while ago. Only started trying to fix a half dozen controllers today. What I'm finding is more often than not the R2/L2 buttons need way more pressure to activate than the original Sony membranes. No amount of trimming seems to help.
This video was so informative, i really enjoyed watching it and learned a bunch, thank u !!!
Really helped me to know how it works. Have a bunch of controllers none work, and where I live in Caribbean , there are few techs. Where can these parts be found?
Perfekt! Es hat auf Anhieb geklappt. Sehr gut erklärt und bestens gezeigt. Danke 👍
Thank you, mine goes to electrical recycling. Might just check though if some of the silicon pads will be of use in my DS4, Dpad mould at least looks like it could be a replacement. Already had to buy a set once.
Did you ever find a more reliable supplier? I have an ocean blue DS2 with and Alps SA1Q42A sheet that needs swapping.
I think it's a leap of faith. Some people report they bought a bunch expecting 90% to be trash but all of them worked.
This is good information
the pads seems to deteriorate and the symptoms of all button non responsive are common
I bought some cheap aftermarket ds2 and the sticks have massive dead zones and is way too sensitive and the shells are very thin and brittle too bad the genuine ones are so annoying to fix
Wow you helped me figure out why mine didn't work didn't know it had to go to the right thanks
probably that trace that runs around the flat is a shield since it connects to the gnd on the pcb
Nice video
Will you provide links for buying all your replaceable parts for PCBs, PCB connectors and replacement PS2 controller cords?
SA1Q42-A PCB's will work too with those sockets
SA1Q43-A PCBs also compatible with late versions of PS2 A controllers =)
Lots of respect all the way from New Zealand
SQ1Q42-A is the one that does not need to do that weld? , im looking for a replacemant for a SA1Q20A.
@@runarquista2755 Oops, I mistyped
SQ1Q42-A is actually SA1Q42-A
Both SA1Q42-A and SA1Q43-A are not fixed to the socket pinned on the circuit board therefore can be removed from the ribbon socket without soldering at all
If yr PS2 controller is H or certain A version (not the 1 with the foam to help PCB make contact with the pins to the circuit board) you can use both PCB's I've mentioned with the ribbon rocket shown in this video for H controllers otherwise u can replace PCB with a new 1 by reinserting the new PCB in the ribbon socket for the latter A controller I mentioned
Hoped I cleared things up =)
I actually just fixed my old broken ps2 controllers with this same issue and my fix was as simple as using rubbing alcohol and cleaning the board on all 3 of them.
What board did you clean ?
What type of alcohol?
@@agustin8160 u wanna try and use 90% at least
@@yo_its_gingey5329 I have 96 ethyl alcohol, will that work? You cleaned the "green board" where the rubber things go right?
@@agustin8160 That should work, Or you can soak it in it too but just make sure its completely dry before trying to put it back together and plug it in.
Im planning on ordering a couple to fix my controllers, however I was wondering if these new membranes are pressure sensitive like the original ones? Have you tested that out? An answer would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, it’s not worth the membrane that does the pressure sensitivity, but the round black dot on the silicon pads, the harder the press they deform and expand thus touching more membrane and increasing the resistance.
Thanks for this great video. I searched for PS2 button repair because I started playing my PS2 now that I have a Retrotink 5k, but the D pad feels kind of hard to use and my thumb is sore. I'm not sure if it's the age of my 24 year old controller or if my old hands aren't used to the D-pad. Any advice?
What about using conductive paint to repair the original, is it possible? I bet those crappy non original boards won't last long.
I have the opposite problem, all buttons work except for start and select, and the analog sticks are weak
I don't have one of those hot air soldering irons... I tried to use a regular soldering iron and I think the pads came off with the connector because it's all brown. I ruined it didn't I?
This is probably the second thing I've ever attempted to solder, haha.. I'm a newbie.
pretty much, sorry, I never tried that with a soldering iron actually.
the heatgun is now a crucial tool for microsoldering
This was really good and helpful guide. Thanks!
Is it normal for the second circle to only show left/right movement yet the right stick clearly has 2 functioning axes of movement in the bars? Trying to figure out my own controllers, have an A type that's doing that.
I have an issue that i dont understand.
I bought a refurbished ps2 controller from germany, it looks brand new but the only issue is that the X and O buttons arent pressure sensitive at all.
The controller is completely clean, i open it up and nothing looks out of the ordinary. All of the buttons work fine except X and O and i cant figure out why
Alot of my H ps2 controllers have a conductive film that have the number “0241” i have bought the SA1Q43a films for replacements since i cant find anything on 0241 films. Will these still work for my controllers?
is it possible to solder on that white latched ribbon connector to the other pin connector location?
Id imagine it should be fine. Ill try it myself once i can get my hands on a replacement part (but I dont know the component name)
my motherboard has the 2 pins for securing it, though hot glue could work if the 2 side pins arent there.
how do you know the right circuit board model for a H model? There's SA1Q42A and SA1Q43A, but no way of knowing which is the best for a H model
Does it matter which connector you get? 18 pin or 19 pin? I have 3 H models and every single one of their circuit boards has diferent types (JK, F and BC, 5A to 4B, that's all the circuit board says) If I buy a 10-pack of those spare circuit boards, will they work?
thanks
if you bridge both sides of one of the buttonstraces, the button should be on constantly unless the bridge is broken right? if so could you solder 2 small wires onto the 18 pin connector and connect them to another button, to make a paddle mod? normally people just use custom flex pcbs but there are none for ps2 and i know you wouldnt be able to easily modify one of these flex pcbs so i figure if you solder onto the actual connector maybe it would work
O único vídeo bem detalhado encontrado aqui no youtube. Parabéns
Eai arrumou o seu ?
20:00
Can't you use a conductive pen or something else to close the bridge of that space between start and square?
what should i search to find the specific 18 pin connectors themselves,
I wonder if the extra pin goes to ground and the trace running around the unit is som sort of shield
stupid question but where do you find the part number for the plastic membrane thing?
really detailed tutorial! i have a question, for which controller would the 42-A be used?? it is usually sold on the same "shop" on ali and they kinda look similar
never mind, i just watched your last video😅
I have a quesion under the dynamo part there on both sides is some half type a spehere plates. is it supposed to have 4 on one side and 1 on one side?
Wow it's really unfortunate how this controller was designed.
I do that process with my h controllers, But after a couple of minutes do random inputs, do You know what's the problem?....
Hey! Did you upload a video for A models too? I have problems with some buttons on it, my x button is working if i press it hard and the O button is acting like an x button? D pad up and down doesnt work. Triangle and square arent responding. The left analog stick is stuck going downwards. Is this something thats impossible to fix by my self? I have another A model controller that works perfectly fine.
Found the video, will watch and come back to this comment when Ive tried one last attempt to fix it.
Edit: so Ive watched it, seems like I need to buy a new membrane. Would still have problem with analog stick though.
Another question, i see that all the circuit boards is clean in your video, mine had brown/orange kinda see trough stuff at some spots around the whole circuit board. Is it normal or is it a damage of some sort? Like coke?
Ok my problem is i static chocked my controller. My R3 button no longer responding so i changed analogy stick no luck same no R3 response. So maybe my static shock kills some chip or something do u have any idea
Hi! What model/type of heat gun do you have?
I bought a set of SA1Q42A foils via AliExpress, but „down“ and“right“are switched. I have two controllers, both have right on pin 6 and down on pin 7 ( counting from left). The new foils have down on pin 6 and right on pin 7. Anyone else came across this. Not sure what SA1Q42 to order now...
Leaves me wondering if you could scrape the resistors off/open from the original film so that the circuit would now be open and make it so that it only closes when the button is pressed. Just like the start and select buttons? Could that work in theory?
Not really because no button aligns with the position of the contacts, you would need to drill a hole in the case and make a new button hole and add a silicon pad
Wow thanks you just save me from trying to clean with isopropyl alcohol my 8 faulty ps1-ps2 controllers. Btw Wich membrane is needed for a ps1 controller?
Some buttons still work so I've just cleaned the board. Next time I set up the PS2, we'll find out if it works.
I came across a controller , where the ribbon is just pressed on,no solder or connector. And is the same problem noted in the cheap OEM controllers? Will be trying to watch all your videos. Thanks for your hard work and content, very helpful.
Hi, I am exclusively work on first party Sony controllers only btw, also the model A is the one with the pressed ribbon cable, I covered those as well.
Hey great video! This H controllers tend to fault all in the same way... but where did you find the pin connectors and pcb? Appreciate if you could give us a link. Greetings from Italy :D
if you google the number on the ribbon cable, it will come up, there are many models, so you have to open yours to make sure you get he correct one.
I don't think your ressistance theory is correct I have 2 controllers dissasembled 1 working 1 not and ressistance on both is over 19k ...
Hi . i replac fim 19to 18 like u .but star and select and analog on.not wark. And problem to dawn and right. Is chang up is down and down is up!?
PS2 Fat has 2 USB ports. I wonder if DS3 works?
huh film pad is not held by that black piece on my controller. just pushed onto the board when u close the controller. much like how the ps3 and 4 controller is. for whatever reason my l3 is not working as well :/
Hi again I have a question what the problem went you have a ps2 motor that spin slow I have a new one it work in one board good but I use the same one in another board and spin slow this new motor you think is the board right left is ok right spin slow
could you make a small video on which circuit board is needed for which model? thanks for these vids they are excellent
great video. Now its time to repair my pad's beybeee
Thanks😀
I don't understand why the connector has to be removed? The cable just unplugs. Could you not just leave the old connector and slide the replacement ribbon straight in?
Also it would be great to hear an explanation as to all the different types of controllers and which ribbons are compatible with which controllers. etc. Oh, ok. I just heard you are doing a full series of all the different controllers. Nice!
Still not sure why you changed the connector.
No flux?
it doesn't unplug, what all the videos, only some you can unplug.
I prefer the old ps1 dual shift because the mother board is wood & they’re push buttons too.
could you sewing needle replace a pin in the ps2 controller?
On all Pins (of these 18) ther is a little bit of Power. Can you discripe in detail how the Controler Chip is read the Data? I am verry confused. Thank you for your Video. Can you say frow withch shop you buy your Button foil? I found it on Amazon, Ebay, Aliexpress. I dont know witch are the best ones. My englisch is terrible. Sorry aboud that. You are amazing. Thanks for making this Video
do you sell any of your replacement parts at all?
Amazing video. Thank you so much.
What model for the latch type ? Sa1q42a or sa1q43a?the latch type or both can b?
Qual o nome do programa mostrado no vídeo para testa o controle?
What program are you using on your pc to test controllers?
Most likely he use the program you can see at 1:06 until 9:33 😉 It even clearly shows the name of the program… 🥸
Love your vids! Inspired me to buy a bulk pack of 27 'broken' PS2 controllers on ebay instead of paying a premium for a couple good ones. Can you upload a copy of KADE (kick ass dynamic encoder) software you're using? Their domain is down and I can't find the download anywhere. The Windows game controller/device manager works but I don't like the interface as much.
that looks like jstest-gtk
Great video, whats the electric screwdriver model you use ?
www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832863163424.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.43.332176845adnKl&algo_pvid=ca12bee1-0d9a-4b05-83af-44fc20e63242&algo_exp_id=ca12bee1-0d9a-4b05-83af-44fc20e63242-21&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000030803594139%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%2126.62%2115.44%21%21%21%21%21%402102172f16734582171292931d0674%2112000030803594139%21sea&curPageLogUid=ZBrdAlnvIyWL
Hey this video helped me a lot in understanding the problem on my ps2 controller. Is there any way to fix the button located between start and square?
I can't find those pin connectors anywhere
They are available on ali express
Hi, I have a model H and I raplaced the flex but the buttons press themselves, I don't why but I have changed the flex many times and nothing.
Help!!!!
What's the name of the program that you use and the adapter?
I have that problem too, did You find the solutión?
Great work and explanations!
Sooo what if the analog doesn't work?
Oh, you are a feren os user, dont know if i ever gonna use it, im here for cable replacement for my second ps2 i think series A controller. And its in a box in the basement. ;)
What heat gun do your use?
Hey would you happen to have any of these as spare I could get my hands on?
I don't, when they are in really bad shape, they get dismantled and every single piece gets bagged, tagged used on the next one that needs it, to me, one "spare" can fix 4-5 others.
Hey are you still repairing PS2 controllers ? I have 1 model H and two after market contollers. i was wondering if youd repair them if you still have the parts
They are still being fixed but not by me, all these videos I made to train others who now do that, and we don’t fix 3rd party ones unless we collect multiples so they can be used for parts.
@@restartrepairs4393 I used the rumble motors from 1 3rd party controller for an original one which motors died due masive rust.
Hey man, shouldnt you start a second hand store or something? I bet there are lots of people that wanna relive their childhood.. i would pay atleast 15 to 25 bucks for 1 controller.
Edit: damn.. i just heard you say only 10 to 15 worked out of 100 you bought..
Please what soft are using to check on yha computer if everything is working?????
on the PS2 I use: www.psx-place.com/resources/ps2-controller-tester-by-jbit.670/
On the PC (running linux) I use: jstest-gtk.gitlab.io
very helpful explenation. thanks
Do you repair xbox 360 controllers? I have a couple that are in need of it.
I don't personally I have a helper that does it for me.
I have two A models with different internals. Is that normal?
yes, if you watch the other videos I think you will see several
hi, where can i find to buy 18 pin connector?
On the Internet…
can't believe sony sucked this much in the engineering of the ps2 controller
hello sorry for my english but i am french
i have 3 controller 1 type A with tape solder this it s ok and 2 type H with tape clip this 2 controlers not function i buy 2 models of electrical circuit 1 SA-1Q43-A and SA-1Q42-A but they have 18 lines my controlers have 19 line it s my probleme
Has you solution please??
my solution is 24:32 thx
You are a genius!