Agreed. This is a cool car but so far it's not doing anything the Kagama can't do and I've only broken the Kagama once and that's when I was really really trying to.
Your definitely the first person that I have seen run 7s 👍 I always find that some M2C front drive cups fixes the shafts popping out. That is normally what causes bending. I sheared off a new style drive cup first bash with my Big Rock on the front. Rears have been no problem
I broke a rear on my big rock but haven't had any problems with the axles or CVDs. I'll be interested to see what the M2C CVDs do on the front of the EXB.
Yeah that seems to be a normal problem i encountered with my old k6exb. Its really sad their longer outputs didn't fix it. I removed the red rings on the control arms, and that seats the dogbone deeper into the output. It solved that problem for me, but I'm sure you probably know that trick and a few others already 😆 Great vidja as always.
Yeah I'm not sure that the problem we used to have is the problem I'm experiencing now. Normally in the past when the CVD would pop out it wouldn't be bent. I think what's happening here is in crashes the CVD is getting bent And then because it's bent it's shorter which then makes it fall out of the output cup. I didn't experience a single instance of a CVD falling out on the big rock and it has basically the exact same suspension.
@@DoRC Have you tried cycling the suspension to full compression while watching the placement of the dogbone portion of the cvd in the output cup? Might be too much upward travel? That was another culprit I found that popped the fronts out. As for the bending, like you said, the extra rigidity from the bulkhead may be adding to it bending so easily and early.
Hi mate one of the first things to change on a kraton 6s is the front hub's. I can't believe on this EXB Extreme with all the upgrades they didn't change the hub's 😢. Great video mate 7s looks like the sweet spot but I'm surprised you didn't put metal hub's in because that solves the problem.
I'm not sure how metal hubs would help with the problem I experience in this video. Yes it will correct the problem that happened last video but what would it have changed in this one? I also chose not to upgrade things because I wanted to see if the breakage I had in the last video was a fluke or not.
A shame. Still looking forward to getting mine but this does sour things a little. Still, not too pricey to put right so far. Interested to see how this truck holds up in the long run. On a side note: Your channel is really top notch man. Keep this up. I always look forward to new videos from you. 👍
Great vid!! Sorry about the breakage..never broke a front hub on a v5 exb roller, maybe Arrma changed something? FWIW, HRB makes 7s packs. Keep up the great content!! Happy New Year!!👍🍻
Well I just got back from mild bashing@ Just a ramp and wet yard. Start of 3rd pack and nothing but a weird noise. The pinion not only came loose but the motor came loose as well from the mount. Not pissed. But cmon. Now I have a clicking nose, probably from spur or pinion gear. But still upset.
That's a bummer. If those came loose it means that whoever was putting it together didn't use thread lock. I would definitely recommend going through it then and making sure everything is thread locked.
I love your honestly kenny, been a subscriber for only couple weeks now but i seem to love youre content more & more. Keep up the great work 👍 Side not: so maybe having alloy bulkheads isnt the be all end all???
Not sure yet. I've run aluminum bulkhead of other vehicles without issue. I'm wondering if it's the aluminum bulkheads and the longer output cups combined.
I think you are dead on with the aluminum bulkhead causing the problem to move to the next weakest link. Aluminum parts are cool looking and strong but can put unneeded stress on other parts. Hopefully the M2C parts will help out. I really enjoy your channel. Just the right length videos and lots of good info.
I think it probably actually went wrong 6:20 in, it appeared to land side on next to the fence, was hard to tell but side on in the air, then it appeared to hit the ground on it's side I paused it there, it was kinda blurry but rolled video forward it bounced up sideways, so gonna stick with landed like that, the next jump is when you put bent here, seems more likely landed on its side, all the weight of impact went into that shaft bending it and the next jump it popped out as was already damaged.
@@DoRCyeah if you go to just before 6:20 in video it appears to bounce up after slamming down on side have a look see what you think I could be wrong am sure you can slow it all down and get clearer image lol. (These things happen)
@richardhutchinson9646 Yeah for sure I took a look at that It's definitely a possibility. Even with that though I still feel like it's unusually easy to do. I've bashed a lot of cars in the exact same spot the exact same way and it's pretty rare to break one every single bash. I've had the CVDs pop out in the past on these vehicles but I don't think that's what's happening here. They extended the output cups to fix that and every time it has come out it's either been a broken CVD or a bent CVD. I think the crashes are bending the shafts and then the shaft comes out because it's physically shorter cuz it's bent. That's all just theory though and I could definitely be wrong.
@@DoRC Yeah I get what you mean could try couple of nylon washers behind the bulkhead then screws through to create a tiny bit of cushion. So it would go washers, bulkhead and then screws if that makes sense?
I'm not sure it's quite the same problem. I think this is being caused by the CVD bending and then basically being shorter which causes it to come out. They're popping out just on hard breaking You've got something else going on. That really shouldn't be happening
Not sure. In my experience the droop screws really don't have a ton of effect because in a crash the arms are going to bend anyway and overrun the stops of the droop screws. Yes the Cubs are new and extended. I don't think this is a problem of them just popping out of the cups. I think the Yes the Cubs are new and extended. I don't think this is a problem of them just popping out of the cups. I think the CVDs are bending and then coming out because they're shorter for being bent.
Coming back here to say that today I broke my right front outer CVD Today during a quick bash. What’s your recommended upgrade path? I’m guessing M2C? My car is still completely stock.
Yeah I forgot to address that in the video. They make 7S batteries. You can get one from SMC and there are a couple other places that make them as well.
I just got the new EXB RTR. When it broke the first time, did you check the front diff outdrive cup where it broke? There is a ton of material missing from the arm where it popped out and the bone had ripped some of the plastic out. It looks to me like the outdrive cup was already damaged by the original crash, causing this one to bend and not break. So, it is kinda the same cvd issue. The arm wouldn't flex nearly as much to cause this break if the shock wasn't compressing so hard on the landing. I do agree with the other poster, I think it has to do with the droop. When I adjusted mine, it completely solved the issue.
Yes. The first breakage didn't cause any damage to the cup or the arm. That material you saw missing was from the last time it happened. The CVD got stuck under the output cup. I don't think that this is being caused by overextension. At least I would hope it isn't given that they redesign the output cups to fix that problem. I think this is happening because the CVD is getting bent and then it's shorter because it's bent and coming out of the cup because of it. I could definitely be wrong though. I've tried adjusting troop screws in the past and for me at least it doesn't really seem to make much difference.
Do you think it's more worth while to get a Kraton 6S V5 and do some custom upgrades or go straight to a Kraton EXB? It sure seems like you get a lot of bang for your buck going up just a $150 for the EXB.
I had to limit the shocks by adding in spacer and stopped breaking or popping out CVDS in the front. 4 mm spacer around thr front shock shaft. No more issues and no need to purchase expensive cvds
Yeah I'm not sure that applies to these anymore though since they extended the length of the output cups. I think what's going on here is that the CVDs are getting bent and then the bent CBD is shorter than a straight one so it ends up popping out. I've got this exact same setup on my big rock and I never popped out a CVD.
I'm just heading to the auto parts store to get some 4mm tube to put limiters on my front shocks of my original 6S EXB. I'm not a jumper with my truck as we love racing around on make shift tracks but a couple of full compressions of the front suspension and the front shaft keeps popping out and yesterday destroyed a new EXB outdrive. I threw in a new M2c outdrive on that one side last night as the other is still brand new EXB ( only a few weeks old ) so hopefully the shock limiters will do the trick..
@@DoRC Will do mate! Have to say only found your channel 6 months ago and I absolutely love the content you put out... All the best for the new year looking forward to what you have coming in 24..
Wow, glad I watched your video. I no longer want one because it seems like they all break and need fixing. I am sick of spending more time fixing instead of playing 😆. I should probably spend my money fixing and upgrading all my old ones first but I will go watch videos of the new Big Rock 6s next. I actually thought this was the newest unbreakable one and was going to spend my tax refund on it 😆. I'm willing to spend $1,000 - $2,000 for an unbreakable RC basher RTR. Enjoy your new RC.
It's actually still a pretty good car. The hits I took were not gentle. That being said it is kind of annoying to have something break every single time.
Take the red aluminum spacer/cap off the end of the a arm and no spacers between pillow ball and a arm. Some even sand down the end of the arm if it still keeps happening. NO issues on any of my cars since removing red arm end cap.
I'm not sure this is the same problem that we were having before. They extended the differential cups specifically to address that problem. I think what's going on here is that in crashes the CVDs are getting bent and then because a bent CVD is shorter in effective length that's falling out. I suppose all of the previous solutions might help but that kind of negate the whole point of them making the diff cups longer. I also have this exact same suspension and differential setup on my big rock and have not had a single CVD come out
EXB is extreme bash.. There's absolutely no "reason" you should have to spend the money on M2C upgrades given the price, title and durability advertising of this RC Truggy!! IMHO for the price/marketing of the truck it should in no way be breaking EVERY single session lightly bashing, (in the dirt especially) for what Arrma charges for this unit.. I love the brand but would never put out the cash they want for this RC... I'll stick to my 3S & 4S Arrma trucks.
I agree with this to some degree. I mean all cars are going to have weak points but I really don't feel like I was beating on this that hard and for it to break essentially the same way every single time I've taken it out feels like there's a problem.
@@DoRChave you touched your droop screws yet I noticed in mine that they were just wound all the way in doing nothing at all I imagine it could help with over extending that arm causing the axle to pop out or get caught an breaking the cvd side could be wrong I'm a maintenance an set up junkie lol definitely worth a shot an free to do
I think this is what all these 6S do. On the front cvd's I use a body clip tether. I use the rubber part. Cut it off so that it makes a cone like shape. And I put that in between the axle and the drive cup. This way it's sunug between both points but not rigid. This 2orks for me. I literally never have my axles pop out. It will break a diff cup before it pops out. I do the same to the rear. Except I put the rubber piece on the hub side. Also on the front arms I remove the spacer on the arms to bring the hubs closer to the chassis. Which brings the distance between the hub and diff cup down. Also adding to the reduction in cvd popping out. And I use a Freshpark ramp to hit 100 ft plus sends. No front or rear axles popping out.
Well technically they did redesign it. That's why they extended the output cups. I don't think this is that same problem necessarily. The problem I'm experiencing is that the CVs are bending and then basically falling out because they are bent and when they get bent they are shorter. That's why I'm hoping the M2C ones will correct the problem.
Honestly, when I land on two wheels like that, it usually means something is going to break. I wouldn't worry about that too much. I'll keep watching to see what happened next 😂. I saw these rest. Yeah, I've had issues with my 6s Arrma trucks popping out the CVD like that before. I don't think it's the extra weight IMHO.
I don't think it's the extra weight either. I suspect it's the lack of flexibility in the bulkhead coupled with the CVD getting over constrained in a crash and not having anywhere to go. The big rock has the exact same setup and I haven't lost a single axle. The only difference is it does not have the aluminum bulkheads. Could just be coincidence though.
Hey hope all good,u know I did the update thing but my program box said update software but the program on my laptop don't give me any updates,I didn't run the car yet bit by monday I will run it yo wet here on Massachusetts
@DoRC I will see by monday when I run it because that one will be a run on the no dirt car,I got 1 regular k6 and 2 XL all whit HW combos,that one is a must ha e car
The aluminum bulkhead has nothing to do with the axles popping out. Its because the shocks are compressing way. Too much causing it to pop out. The common fix for that is to but some fuel tubbing of 5mm thick on the front shock shafts to limit the suspension travel upwards. This issue is a common issue since the v4 arrmas or even earlier. You just need to do something to limit the travel on the shocks or shave the aluminum spacer and remove the shims or clip they use on the top pivot ball
Maybe so but I probably had a dozen other vehicles in this platform in the last few years and I've never had this much trouble. Also keep in mind the problem isn't that the CVDs are popping out The problem is that the CVDs are getting bent and then popping out. These differentials have extended output cups that are supposed to fix the just random popping out problem. I didn't have a single CVD pop out on my big rock in probably a dozen packs.
Indeed weird i only ever bent the cvds if i crashed hard on one wheel and i just straighten them with an hammer. Does the outdrives have a little rubber grommet inside them? The only way for the CVD to bend is either a direct impact to the arm and the flex or a side hit who forces the outdrive to hit the bottom of the outdrive and bend it if the hit is hard enough@@DoRC
@EXTREMERC416 No they don't have grommets in them. The rears do for the dog bones but not the fronts. I suspect that the longer outdrive cups are overconstraining the CVDs in a crash and causing them to bend.
@@EXTREMERC416 nope none. That's why I'm suspecting that the problems being caused by the aluminum bulkheads. I think they aren't flexing at all in a crash which is causing the CVDs to get over constrained and bend. Once it bends that it pops out of the drive cup. That's a lot of supposing though so I'm not really sure it's the case.
The higher voltage actually gives you more power. A bigger pinion gear gives you a theoretical higher top speed but you're still limited by the amount of power that the system has.
Yeah.. the tougher aluminum bulkhead is causing the next piece that are not as forgiving to break. Next weakest thing down will only break, which makes sense.
Obviously they do that so you can run two packs I dont have a problem with that. Personally I think it flies so nice on 6s more battery more weight. Your not going to fry the motor I ran 6s on my Vendetta no problem. I think the real test would be to speed run it with the same batteries you did the first one to even see if the esc change is worth it does it really add more power, I dont think your jumps are crazy they market this as extreme bash its concerning they still have the same problems so far mine has not acted up fingers crossed.
Yeah I'll have to try that. I do know that 7S should be about 20% more power inherently and the ESC should be already capable of handling whatever the motor can draw otherwise you'd be overloading the stock ESC. Because of this I'm reading the ESC shouldn't make much difference unless you also upgrade the power going into it.
If you want 2 more mph you can change the pinion with 1 or 2 more tooth. It a lot of trouble changing the esc solder new wire. Adding more weight with big batterie add more stress to other part :)
Top speed wasn't really the goal. The speed is really being limited by traction and it wanting to wheelie. More power was the goal which you can't get from gearing. Thanks for watching:)
i dont think you were being too hard on it. i think you were running it pretty good, the driveshafts are definitly the weak point here. im gonna have to upgrade those.
nah man, the way you're bashing is just fine. Arrma will probably still be my favourite hobby rc brand, because any weak points can be upgraded easily which I really like. Part of the fun is to buy some upgrades and install it yourself while making your truck unique and stronger. other brands like traxxas don't really offer that same experience. That's just my opinion. 🙃
The only issue I have with that is the part that breaks still the most often is the arms and there really is no good upgrade for those arms. The RPM arms at least in my experience aren't really any better than stock.
Not a bad unlucky in my opinion. This happens to all the Arrmas. I always replace them with the Hot Racing ones. My Kraton is on the way along with the Hot Racing hubs. I'll be installing those before the first rip.
@DoRC Oh ok. Yeah I also always run the Scorched rc titanium axles. They're pricey. But like I commented before. I like the Aldo Loyal, Duperbash and RC Dude type sends. So axles, diff cups and hubs have to be upgraded. I also have Vitavon and Hit Racing Aluminum Bulkheads on all my rigs. And I mostly break arms. Which is on purpose. That's the cheapest thing. Lol. I'm loving the G2 6S esc and motor combo you presented. I put it on my Typhon. I'm learning from ya bro. So many tips and tricks.
Weird I’ve crashed my Mojave EXB many times and only bent the front hinge pins and a crack in one of the bumper “shocks”. It’s been very durable. Although it does have more body protection and smaller tires than this. It’s also running a castle 1717/MMX8S combo so there is lots of power/torque going through the driveline.
Yeah the arm length tire size and body shape make a huge difference. Cars with full bodies on them like the Mojave very rarely break arms because they're just not exposed.
My version 3 mabey 6 s Outcast has actually Never in almost 4 or even more years now. Ever had this problem My truck has landed so hard on compacted crush gravel which is almost as hard as granite crush Anywho all Ive done is blown out every screw from the entire bottom of the car minus the steering screws lol. But I have never constantly had this issue. There’s one difference what I’ve done that you do not seem to address ever well that I have noticed. Your front end and rear end the rear the wheels need to be dbl checked their in tow and the dogbone pins sit proper in the diff. The front end needs your time and energy the arms and shocks need to be in droop and the same as the rear the distance for the dog bone pins in the diff cups have to be dbl checked and adjusted Uno the shimming pushes the diff sideways yet the shafts don’t move side to side with the diffs. Anywho keep testing your channel is getting better bro. Keep on grinding hard the vids are killer awesome 👊😎
@@DoRC try keeping it stock with those minor adjustments. I do not believe all that extra is the fix. I think it is simple as learning those little things and gaining experience in the trick department. Truly you must be going for an ultimate break free basher but they simply do not exist. Everything is prone to breaking Even a Basherbody can be broken if not after time erodes it away or an epic failure occurs. Either way can’t wait to see more cool vids. It was really gnarly you broke that cvd 👍🤘👊😎
I've never broken a cbd on my kraton's and I'm running metal differentials housing's and one runs 8s. I worked in a foundry for 24 years and that snapping is probably Because the metal is to high tensile and therefore it's going to snap.
Lol i just took the screw off battery tray slide back to fit and ran it. Been driving at 100 percent speed on pavement for 30 min before draining to 30 percent battery shuts off basically thats when i call it a day already had several runs.
@@DoRC well i had the tip from internet 😂 but i had to try it… because it popout really easy… for me it worked it never popout again… and its a really easy fix. I hope works for who read this and has the same problem
7s, Bro WTH. Not advised, why are you doing this?? Different MAH, c rating, Brands, I never mix betteries when running two in any application, just not worth the risk. 6s properly geared and cooled should be plenty especially with that ESC, or just go 8s, that would be safer IMHO
@@PigglyWigglyDeluxe believe who you will brother, every ESC manufacture and Lipo manufacture advises against this for a reason. Pretty common knowledge, he even said it's not the best ideas above, but cool believe who you want.... What the hell do I know😂😂
Yeah I say it's not a good idea in the video multiple times. This was just done for testing. I didn't want to spend the money on a 7S battery if I wasn't going to end up using it. I'll make sure to reiterate that in the next video.
These comments about the truck being to expensive and shouldn't break while lightly bashing is concerning me. Maybe you should nut up and watch Rich Duperbash sesh and then tell me how much they break with the air he gets?
It's not so much about the amount of air. It's about what happens when you land badly. Duperbash lands perfectly almost every time. Most modern bashers can handle that.
@@chrisdavis1059 part of it also depends on how it being presented. He has broken multiple arms on this car. Also keep in mind it's primarily the height above the ground that determines how much force is going to be imparted on the vehicle when it hits the ground. The horizontal speed please a fairly minor part. I'm not saying he doesn't bash hard because he does but he also breaks stuff. His channel really isn't about showcasing breakages so they aren't shown to the same degree as a channel like mine would. I agree that the truck is durable. It's just not as durable as some other vehicles that are currently available and it still has the same weaknesses that it's had for many years. Those weaknesses are also hard to upgrade because no one really makes a significantly better arm for the truck.
I dunno, you seem to be bashing in the same fashion as you do other cars and it's not like those are breaking on every imperfect landing, right? Of course things are going to break and have to be fixed, that's the hobby, but it's not fun when every single bashing session is cut short by the same thing breaking.
Yeah that's kind of how I feel about it. I've bashed a lot of cars in similar ways and I have a pretty good feel for what breaks things and what doesn't.
@@DoRC I upgraded my outcast 8s then passed its combo to my felony to make it 8s then passed my felony combo to my granite and made it 6s than passed my granite 3s to my mega and made it 3s haha just passed everything down lmao.
You can use high quality lipos like cnhl on 6s that will completely destroy your 7s setup. Those lipos you use are just low end cheap batteries with a C rating of less than 10C. Don't believe anything about those lipos. The dog bone popping out has been an issue since day one years ago nothing new. You need to install fuel tubing on the shock shaft so it doesn't completely compress and cause the dog bone from popping out.
You can also get really good 7S lipos. The testing I was doing in this video was just using lipos that I already happened to have. I just didn't want to spend the money on a good 7S lipo until I verify that it was going to work and that I liked the setup. I know that in the past CVDs popping out has been a problem but they extended the output cups to eliminate that and I don't think that's the problem I'm having here. The problem isn't that the CVDs are popping out it's that they are bending and then falling out because when the CVD bends it becomes shorter.
Yes, and no. To bashing too hard. When you hit a fence cause there's no room, umm, just saying. I do agree, however, anytime you make something stronger, something else is weaker.... just like helicopters and aluminum pieces in the rc world, lol.
well... if this kind of bashing is too hard for this machine, I can only imagine how many they broke when they were filming the adverb for this one. Or how many Rich Duperbash or other Arrma walking adverb signreceived to make hurray videos... sorry but you drive like we are, no hard bashing or something stupid. This behaves so fragile as ice in the summer.
I would say I bash a little bit harder than some people And I also try to crash it because I know that's what most people are going to be doing and I want to see how it will handle what most people will be doing with it. In my opinion landing perfectly really doesn't show that her ability of the vehicle no matter how high up you are. That being said everybody's experience with RCs is going to be different so mine might not be yours.
Since the truck comes with longer outdrives, pretty sure the cvds touches them when the suspension fully compress. They barely cleared with the older ones. Wtf with you guys running 5 and 7s, run it on 8S if you want, just install a lower KV motor that will habdle it.😵💫
Just because it's fun and something different. I've run 8S on these trucks and it feels like too much. 7S is a little bit more power without going crazy.
7S battery only weighs about 100 g more than a 6s. What you're seeing in the video is 1 minute of about a 30 minute bash session. I'm selectively showing the crashes to show what happens. Basically any modern basher can land perfectly from pretty much any height. If you want proof of that go look at some of the channels that show nothing but perfect landings. The reality is that none of us land perfectly every time though and I want to show what happens when you don't land perfectly because that's what's important. Also keep in mind that the other two vehicles I mentioned in the video have been treated exactly the same and have handled it much better. Thanks for watching :-)
At the end of the day, things break when they are abused. There is no such thing as an indestructible RC. I’m happy with my k6 EXB v2 but I don’t expect it to put up with anyone’s shenanigans without failure. There isn’t an RC I’ve ever had that hasn’t broken in some capacity.
@@DoRC that’s how my XMaxx was. Sold it. Never looked back. The amount of power we have in modern lipos and brushless electronics can far outperform the hardware it’s all attached to. I think most people these days expect too much from their RC. For less than $1000 you can buy a Limitless and 8S spektrum system and suddenly you’re going 110+ and literally any beginner can do that now. It’s actually kinda scary. Back in the day you were the fastest guy in the country going 40+ on 10 cell nimh, which by the way were like $100 for each cell in the 90s. I think the hobby in general needs a reality check since everything is so obscenely fast now that something always breaks every time it’s driven.
Yeah I definitely understand what you're saying and in a vacuum I would agree about this card as well but like I said I bash a lot of cars and I've got a pretty good sense for what should and shouldn't break something and landing completely flat like I did the last time in the video should not have caused any problems.
@@DoRC sometimes landing flat is super abusive on the truck especially if it’s straight down with no forward momentum and no run-down ramp of any kind. It’s no different than taking it to a skate park. Sure the grassy ground is softer than concrete but not by much when you’re coming down from 20 feet. I would have expected something to fail in those conditions, especially that straight down 20 foot upside down landing. Thats rough.
Maybe though the last time it broke wasn't even a crash landing. It landed flat. I bash a lot of different vehicles and it's pretty rare for me to break something every single time I take it out. My bashing style generally doesn't change either.
@@John-shreds The Sledge has its own weak points too though. Pretty much any car will. If you want something that's really tough out of the box and doesn't need any upgrades look at the Kagama. It's still my choice for basher of the year.
Yes but do rc and myself bashing in confined spaces when it comes to power weight ratio and the kraton although one of best performing will succumb in these conditions, and if you landed everything perfectly and mastered your course the gears would wear break prematurely compared to all the others , the major contributing factor you don’t see with BRCC is the hubs aren’t extended as they are on the kraton , also you don’t realize the added stability and traction , going just a little faster and harder with this being the downside, I was at work earlier didn’t watch clip closely, the older guy like myself commenting how the force is straight down is really hard is smart, I’ve tested all the Arrmas to point of destruction and rebuilding and a comment saying well I bash like duperbash so you need titanium lol no , it’s the overkill performance in a small environment it’s actually way easier in the rig to send and have lots of time to correct than alternatively sending it straight up with driving force and for most part no room to spread out the energy with the landings , I do the same type of bashing but round round racing myself , typhon is my favorite and only rc comes close in durability “ my maxx “ is floppy and would get lapped , not even in same spektrum , now I can really go nuts with the kraton but I can also destroy it a week or even just get frustrated breaking bending everytime out , so my point environment setup skill and driving are all factors , even my Mojave , every time out I break something I know I can break it every time out , i finally put back together after snapping a axle , bought a set off Amazon and immediately snapped new ones in the middle 😂 shattered on 5 foot jump , at first I was wow I can put cvds in the rear , well went back regular shafts and broke a arm , driver error . First kraton though had me done with Arrmas because I went through diff after diff and I wasn’t looking to put that much money into rc , the 40 bucks for ring pinion , besides time I went through a half dozen what’s that 250 bucks , but I learned with amount of time on the rc by time those ring gears were going the diff cases and cup should be changed too and Jenny’s was a savior because to change everything all once for 40 bucks are so was well worth it and I put more time on the rc in a year than most people do in 10 years ,now I just build them or rebuild them from scratch besides the typhon , I bought exbs because they were 300 bucks or so , kraton been on the shelf new and Mojave is a lot of fun but for 350 I’d start over and negate it to parts
700 dollar truck should NOT BE HAVING PROBLEMS IDC ,. IT TRULY SHOWS WHEN PEOPLE GET PRODUCTS for FREE,PEOPLE ARE SCARED TO SAY.ITS OVER priced and is not good. The stock electronics are garbage. So let me spend another couple hundred. Plus it seems like only M2C CAN SOLVE THESE driveshaft issues? Horseshit.,GTFOH. SO SAID AND DONE,A R8G THAT IS NEW THAT YOU NEED TO KEEP FIXING?INSANITY
I'm not sure who you are referring to about getting products for free but I paid full price for this just like I do for just about everything. I don't think the stock electronics are bad at all. They actually work very well including the servo. I agree that it is annoying that this is having a problem but at least in my experience pretty much all RCs have problems and weak points.
Told you there was a crack 😂😂😂I love Arrmas but you’re just reminding me why I have a new kraton on the shelf , yes your bashing to hard in a sence bad landings won’t be forgiven , that said if you’re consistent and landing perfectly the kraton will disseminate itself faster than any other arrma , even the larger ones , so I build my own Arrmas and the main thing is the kraton and outcast are the widest with the most rotation mass , and outcast is ok because realistically you’re rarely getting all the power down instead flipping or controlling where the kraton will out perform any basher on the market bar none but you will be chasing your tail with repairs . Why I always say if you’re no where near the racing type than sure traxxas is better but if you really want to next level bash you need a arrma or techno
I always mix and match hubs stub axles and arms adjusting the with and if I do keep the full with I go with smaller wheeels , matter fact since LP backflips I don’t really use the full size wheels . My bashing is my back yard and can be rough but impacts bad landings isn’t really the issues Ive had with Arrmas it’s keeping the diffs from stripping 20 30 40 packs in and than changing ring pinion after going through the whole rig for it to strip shortly afterwards, I learned once they get a certain amount of run time you have to change the bulkhead and diff cup , sure aluminum will last longer but it will spread the problem somewhere else as your experiencing in a few runs , I’m telling u I got so fed up with arrma with the first kraton after loving the first outcast and never having any issues,
I get that with bad landings but I have bad landings all the time with a lot of vehicles. It's pretty rare to break one every single time I take it out.
Yeah I'm just not sure about this one. I usually have good luck with their platforms but it's really rare for me to break something every single time I take it out which I have so far with this one. That being said maybe just a set of M2C CVDs will fix the problem. Other than that issue I really like the car.
@@DoRC agree , I know what you mean , I praised the the granite as best rc for 300 bucks , l literally wore every part through usage with no breaks , the brcc comes out and every single time something would break , it made no sence , sure it’s a tad longer but still , I attest it now horizon was making Arrmas in a different plant and the plastic was possibly different, idk 🤷 😂
I’m not sure you should be telling people how to use unmatched batteries together if a younger or just less experienced person does this and gets hurt it could look very bad for you and the hobby in general. JS be careful doing stuff out of the norm.
Fair enough though I feel like I pretty thoroughly described why it was a bad idea. I also feel like I described how to do it safely. Fortunately there really isn't much danger of someone getting hurt because the worst you're going to do is over discharge a battery and kill it. Usually over discharging batteries doesn't cause any sort of catastrophic failure.
Dude, I gotta say I love your channel. You're creative and make some high quality, informational videos. Surprised you're not a bigger channel.
Thanks man I appreciate it!
I also got one recently. Thank you for helping me find the weak point of this car so I can upgrade it first.👍
I'm going to try the M2C shaft soon so we'll see how that goes.
I feel the Team Corally Kagama is a lot better value. It does everything the Kraton EXB can do for less money.
Agreed. This is a cool car but so far it's not doing anything the Kagama can't do and I've only broken the Kagama once and that's when I was really really trying to.
Team Corally parts availability is absolutely abysmal in the UK. I would have already bought a Kagama if that wasn't the case.
@@IISG93II That's a bummer
V5 rtr kraton is stronger than any corrally car lol aside from the servo in the kraton
The kagama radio is junk. The motor on 6s is cooking. Sold mine 3 weeks later.
Your definitely the first person that I have seen run 7s 👍 I always find that some M2C front drive cups fixes the shafts popping out. That is normally what causes bending. I sheared off a new style drive cup first bash with my Big Rock on the front. Rears have been no problem
I broke a rear on my big rock but haven't had any problems with the axles or CVDs. I'll be interested to see what the M2C CVDs do on the front of the EXB.
Yeah that seems to be a normal problem i encountered with my old k6exb.
Its really sad their longer outputs didn't fix it.
I removed the red rings on the control arms, and that seats the dogbone deeper into the output.
It solved that problem for me, but I'm sure you probably know that trick and a few others already 😆
Great vidja as always.
Yeah I'm not sure that the problem we used to have is the problem I'm experiencing now. Normally in the past when the CVD would pop out it wouldn't be bent. I think what's happening here is in crashes the CVD is getting bent And then because it's bent it's shorter which then makes it fall out of the output cup.
I didn't experience a single instance of a CVD falling out on the big rock and it has basically the exact same suspension.
@@DoRC
Have you tried cycling the suspension to full compression while watching the placement of the dogbone portion of the cvd in the output cup?
Might be too much upward travel? That was another culprit I found that popped the fronts out.
As for the bending, like you said, the extra rigidity from the bulkhead may be adding to it bending so easily and early.
@captaincouldverc Yeah I checked it and with normal cycling it's not binding. That doesn't mean it isn't happening in crashes though.
Great video, love your presentation! M2C to the rescue!
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching. I'll be trying your CVDs very soon.
Hi mate one of the first things to change on a kraton 6s is the front hub's. I can't believe on this EXB Extreme with all the upgrades they didn't change the hub's 😢. Great video mate 7s looks like the sweet spot but I'm surprised you didn't put metal hub's in because that solves the problem.
I'm not sure how metal hubs would help with the problem I experience in this video. Yes it will correct the problem that happened last video but what would it have changed in this one?
I also chose not to upgrade things because I wanted to see if the breakage I had in the last video was a fluke or not.
A shame. Still looking forward to getting mine but this does sour things a little. Still, not too pricey to put right so far. Interested to see how this truck holds up in the long run. On a side note: Your channel is really top notch man. Keep this up. I always look forward to new videos from you. 👍
Thanks Glad you enjoy!
Great vid!! Sorry about the breakage..never broke a front hub on a v5 exb roller, maybe Arrma changed something? FWIW, HRB makes 7s packs. Keep up the great content!! Happy New Year!!👍🍻
Yeah I saw that. I ended up ordering one from SMC though. Thanks Happy New Year to you too!
The comment section is gold.
You have an awesome channel. Keep up the great work!
Definitely some strong opinions! Glad you're enjoying :-)
Well I just got back from mild bashing@
Just a ramp and wet yard. Start of 3rd pack and nothing but a weird noise.
The pinion not only came loose but the motor came loose as well from the mount.
Not pissed. But cmon. Now I have a clicking nose, probably from spur or pinion gear. But still upset.
That's a bummer. If those came loose it means that whoever was putting it together didn't use thread lock. I would definitely recommend going through it then and making sure everything is thread locked.
Arrma and Corally might have better electronics than the Sledge but its the KING in the durability department
What did you break on your kagama?
I love your honestly kenny, been a subscriber for only couple weeks now but i seem to love youre content more & more. Keep up the great work 👍
Side not: so maybe having alloy bulkheads isnt the be all end all???
Not sure yet. I've run aluminum bulkhead of other vehicles without issue. I'm wondering if it's the aluminum bulkheads and the longer output cups combined.
I think you are dead on with the aluminum bulkhead causing the problem to move to the next weakest link. Aluminum parts are cool looking and strong but can put unneeded stress on other parts. Hopefully the M2C parts will help out. I really enjoy your channel. Just the right length videos and lots of good info.
It is possible I'm wrong but we'll see how it goes with the M2C CVDs.
I think it probably actually went wrong 6:20 in, it appeared to land side on next to the fence, was hard to tell but side on in the air, then it appeared to hit the ground on it's side I paused it there, it was kinda blurry but rolled video forward it bounced up sideways, so gonna stick with landed like that, the next jump is when you put bent here, seems more likely landed on its side, all the weight of impact went into that shaft bending it and the next jump it popped out as was already damaged.
That's entirely possible.
@@DoRCyeah if you go to just before 6:20 in video it appears to bounce up after slamming down on side have a look see what you think I could be wrong am sure you can slow it all down and get clearer image lol. (These things happen)
@richardhutchinson9646 Yeah for sure I took a look at that It's definitely a possibility. Even with that though I still feel like it's unusually easy to do. I've bashed a lot of cars in the exact same spot the exact same way and it's pretty rare to break one every single bash.
I've had the CVDs pop out in the past on these vehicles but I don't think that's what's happening here. They extended the output cups to fix that and every time it has come out it's either been a broken CVD or a bent CVD. I think the crashes are bending the shafts and then the shaft comes out because it's physically shorter cuz it's bent. That's all just theory though and I could definitely be wrong.
@@DoRC Yeah I get what you mean could try couple of nylon washers behind the bulkhead then screws through to create a tiny bit of cushion. So it would go washers, bulkhead and then screws if that makes sense?
I think your right on point with your assessment. So I would upgrade cvds and up-rights. Can bet it will never happen again!
Yeah maybe so. We'll see how it goes with upgraded CVDs
Same problem with my v4 kraton , during hard braking on high traction the front arms twist and and it pops out just like that
I'm not sure it's quite the same problem. I think this is being caused by the CVD bending and then basically being shorter which causes it to come out.
They're popping out just on hard breaking You've got something else going on. That really shouldn't be happening
Aren’t the cups new on the diffs too? You don’t think lowering rhe droop screws would help or do you think it’s popping out on compression?
Not sure. In my experience the droop screws really don't have a ton of effect because in a crash the arms are going to bend anyway and overrun the stops of the droop screws.
Yes the Cubs are new and extended. I don't think this is a problem of them just popping out of the cups. I think the Yes the Cubs are new and extended. I don't think this is a problem of them just popping out of the cups. I think the CVDs are bending and then coming out because they're shorter for being bent.
Coming back here to say that today I broke my right front outer CVD Today during a quick bash. What’s your recommended upgrade path? I’m guessing M2C? My car is still completely stock.
What would the correct batteries to use be? Two 3.5s? I didn't know they sold 3.5s batteries.
Yeah I forgot to address that in the video. They make 7S batteries. You can get one from SMC and there are a couple other places that make them as well.
I just got the new EXB RTR. When it broke the first time, did you check the front diff outdrive cup where it broke? There is a ton of material missing from the arm where it popped out and the bone had ripped some of the plastic out. It looks to me like the outdrive cup was already damaged by the original crash, causing this one to bend and not break. So, it is kinda the same cvd issue. The arm wouldn't flex nearly as much to cause this break if the shock wasn't compressing so hard on the landing. I do agree with the other poster, I think it has to do with the droop. When I adjusted mine, it completely solved the issue.
Yes. The first breakage didn't cause any damage to the cup or the arm. That material you saw missing was from the last time it happened. The CVD got stuck under the output cup.
I don't think that this is being caused by overextension. At least I would hope it isn't given that they redesign the output cups to fix that problem. I think this is happening because the CVD is getting bent and then it's shorter because it's bent and coming out of the cup because of it. I could definitely be wrong though. I've tried adjusting troop screws in the past and for me at least it doesn't really seem to make much difference.
Do you think it's more worth while to get a Kraton 6S V5 and do some custom upgrades or go straight to a Kraton EXB? It sure seems like you get a lot of bang for your buck going up just a $150 for the EXB.
I think the EXP is the way to go. You do get a lot for the money and especially given that the EXB has all the new V6 updated features it's worth it.
And I thought 6s was insane - here you are throwing 7s in yours 😂
More powah!!!
I had to limit the shocks by adding in spacer and stopped breaking or popping out CVDS in the front. 4 mm spacer around thr front shock shaft. No more issues and no need to purchase expensive cvds
Yeah I'm not sure that applies to these anymore though since they extended the length of the output cups. I think what's going on here is that the CVDs are getting bent and then the bent CBD is shorter than a straight one so it ends up popping out. I've got this exact same setup on my big rock and I never popped out a CVD.
I'm just heading to the auto parts store to get some 4mm tube to put limiters on my front shocks of my original 6S EXB. I'm not a jumper with my truck as we love racing around on make shift tracks but a couple of full compressions of the front suspension and the front shaft keeps popping out and yesterday destroyed a new EXB outdrive. I threw in a new M2c outdrive on that one side last night as the other is still brand new EXB ( only a few weeks old ) so hopefully the shock limiters will do the trick..
@@malsmith2012 let me know how it goes!
@@DoRC Will do mate! Have to say only found your channel 6 months ago and I absolutely love the content you put out... All the best for the new year looking forward to what you have coming in 24..
Wow, glad I watched your video. I no longer want one because it seems like they all break and need fixing. I am sick of spending more time fixing instead of playing 😆. I should probably spend my money fixing and upgrading all my old ones first but I will go watch videos of the new Big Rock 6s next. I actually thought this was the newest unbreakable one and was going to spend my tax refund on it 😆. I'm willing to spend $1,000 - $2,000 for an unbreakable RC basher RTR. Enjoy your new RC.
It's actually still a pretty good car. The hits I took were not gentle. That being said it is kind of annoying to have something break every single time.
Take the red aluminum spacer/cap off the end of the a arm and no spacers between pillow ball and a arm. Some even sand down the end of the arm if it still keeps happening. NO issues on any of my cars since removing red arm end cap.
I'm not sure this is the same problem that we were having before. They extended the differential cups specifically to address that problem. I think what's going on here is that in crashes the CVDs are getting bent and then because a bent CVD is shorter in effective length that's falling out.
I suppose all of the previous solutions might help but that kind of negate the whole point of them making the diff cups longer.
I also have this exact same suspension and differential setup on my big rock and have not had a single CVD come out
I always have diff problems on all my 6s rigs shimmed or not. Have you had issues?
Not really. If you issues with the non-EXB differentials but even my heavily upgraded vehicles with EXB differentials have held up well.
@DoRC they changed the diff gears in the exbs?
@slicktmi Yes. The ring and pinion gears are stronger as are the internal differential gears. The output cup shafts are a larger diameter as well.
@DoRC ok cool i knew about the drive cups but didn't know they upgraded the ring and pinion
EXB is extreme bash.. There's absolutely no "reason" you should have to spend the money on M2C upgrades given the price, title and durability advertising of this RC Truggy!! IMHO for the price/marketing of the truck it should in no way be breaking EVERY single session lightly bashing, (in the dirt especially) for what Arrma charges for this unit.. I love the brand but would never put out the cash they want for this RC... I'll stick to my 3S & 4S Arrma trucks.
I agree with this to some degree. I mean all cars are going to have weak points but I really don't feel like I was beating on this that hard and for it to break essentially the same way every single time I've taken it out feels like there's a problem.
Your 100 percent right,this Channel will never ever blame the product, the product like EVERYTHING ELSE will have to be upgraded not to break,
You could always buy a sledge
@@DoRChave you touched your droop screws yet I noticed in mine that they were just wound all the way in doing nothing at all I imagine it could help with over extending that arm causing the axle to pop out or get caught an breaking the cvd side could be wrong I'm a maintenance an set up junkie lol definitely worth a shot an free to do
@RC4us mine have washers spacing them out and they seem to be about right.
Agreed, pull those red anodized caps off front arms. Still think metal axles are different metal mix. Great vid . 👍
Possibly. I'm going to try M2C shafts first and see how that goes.
I think this is what all these 6S do. On the front cvd's I use a body clip tether. I use the rubber part. Cut it off so that it makes a cone like shape. And I put that in between the axle and the drive cup. This way it's sunug between both points but not rigid. This 2orks for me. I literally never have my axles pop out. It will break a diff cup before it pops out. I do the same to the rear. Except I put the rubber piece on the hub side. Also on the front arms I remove the spacer on the arms to bring the hubs closer to the chassis. Which brings the distance between the hub and diff cup down. Also adding to the reduction in cvd popping out. And I use a Freshpark ramp to hit 100 ft plus sends. No front or rear axles popping out.
This didn't pop out because of flex this popped out because the CVD bent.
Front right CVD still pops out.. That needs a redesign
Well technically they did redesign it. That's why they extended the output cups. I don't think this is that same problem necessarily. The problem I'm experiencing is that the CVs are bending and then basically falling out because they are bent and when they get bent they are shorter. That's why I'm hoping the M2C ones will correct the problem.
Honestly, when I land on two wheels like that, it usually means something is going to break. I wouldn't worry about that too much. I'll keep watching to see what happened next 😂. I saw these rest. Yeah, I've had issues with my 6s Arrma trucks popping out the CVD like that before. I don't think it's the extra weight IMHO.
I don't think it's the extra weight either. I suspect it's the lack of flexibility in the bulkhead coupled with the CVD getting over constrained in a crash and not having anywhere to go.
The big rock has the exact same setup and I haven't lost a single axle. The only difference is it does not have the aluminum bulkheads.
Could just be coincidence though.
I luv the way you mix up the cell counts ..thinking i might run my serpent 811t cobra on 5s cause its too much on 6s 🤔
Give it a try. I think 5S and 7s are really underappreciated.
Hey hope all good,u know I did the update thing but my program box said update software but the program on my laptop don't give me any updates,I didn't run the car yet bit by monday I will run it yo wet here on Massachusetts
The ESC's on these were updated from the Horizon before they went out.
@DoRC I will see by monday when I run it because that one will be a run on the no dirt car,I got 1 regular k6 and 2 XL all whit HW combos,that one is a must ha e car
The aluminum bulkhead has nothing to do with the axles popping out. Its because the shocks are compressing way. Too much causing it to pop out. The common fix for that is to but some fuel tubbing of 5mm thick on the front shock shafts to limit the suspension travel upwards. This issue is a common issue since the v4 arrmas or even earlier. You just need to do something to limit the travel on the shocks or shave the aluminum spacer and remove the shims or clip they use on the top pivot ball
Maybe so but I probably had a dozen other vehicles in this platform in the last few years and I've never had this much trouble. Also keep in mind the problem isn't that the CVDs are popping out The problem is that the CVDs are getting bent and then popping out. These differentials have extended output cups that are supposed to fix the just random popping out problem. I didn't have a single CVD pop out on my big rock in probably a dozen packs.
Indeed weird i only ever bent the cvds if i crashed hard on one wheel and i just straighten them with an hammer. Does the outdrives have a little rubber grommet inside them? The only way for the CVD to bend is either a direct impact to the arm and the flex or a side hit who forces the outdrive to hit the bottom of the outdrive and bend it if the hit is hard enough@@DoRC
@EXTREMERC416 No they don't have grommets in them. The rears do for the dog bones but not the fronts. I suspect that the longer outdrive cups are overconstraining the CVDs in a crash and causing them to bend.
I dont understand how can that be the case. The bigrock also use the same drive cups and did u have issues with that truck?@@DoRC
@@EXTREMERC416 nope none. That's why I'm suspecting that the problems being caused by the aluminum bulkheads. I think they aren't flexing at all in a crash which is causing the CVDs to get over constrained and bend. Once it bends that it pops out of the drive cup.
That's a lot of supposing though so I'm not really sure it's the case.
Never See someone bashing on 7s.
What do you think is the advantage of higher voltage over bigger pinion gear?
The higher voltage actually gives you more power. A bigger pinion gear gives you a theoretical higher top speed but you're still limited by the amount of power that the system has.
Going up in pinion will induce low speed cogging. Higher voltage with small pinion gives you better low speed performance
Yeah.. the tougher aluminum bulkhead is causing the next piece that are not as forgiving to break. Next weakest thing down will only break, which makes sense.
That's what I'm thinking.
Where’s the no cry cordless screwdriver video! I’ve been waiting and waiting… lol
It's on the list. I've been overwhelmed by new things coming out so my project videos have fallen behind. Hopefully very soon.
EXB extreme bash, well for me, you're not doing anything wrong 😂😂😂
They were some fairly hard hits but still I don't break very many cars every single time I take them out.
Obviously they do that so you can run two packs I dont have a problem with that. Personally I think it flies so nice on 6s more battery more weight. Your not going to fry the motor I ran 6s on my Vendetta no problem. I think the real test would be to speed run it with the same batteries you did the first one to even see if the esc change is worth it does it really add more power, I dont think your jumps are crazy they market this as extreme bash its concerning they still have the same problems so far mine has not acted up fingers crossed.
Yeah I'll have to try that. I do know that 7S should be about 20% more power inherently and the ESC should be already capable of handling whatever the motor can draw otherwise you'd be overloading the stock ESC. Because of this I'm reading the ESC shouldn't make much difference unless you also upgrade the power going into it.
Increase the ride height, thicker shock oil and maybe larger tires. Just stuff to prevent chassi slap from high jumps and maybe get rpm front arms
I really don't think this is being caused by chassis slap.
@@DoRC it’s the bulkheads transferring the force to the cvds right,
If you want 2 more mph you can change the pinion with 1 or 2 more tooth. It a lot of trouble changing the esc solder new wire. Adding more weight with big batterie add more stress to other part :)
Top speed wasn't really the goal. The speed is really being limited by traction and it wanting to wheelie. More power was the goal which you can't get from gearing. Thanks for watching:)
i dont think you were being too hard on it. i think you were running it pretty good, the driveshafts are definitly the weak point here. im gonna have to upgrade those.
Maybe so. I'll have to see how M2C ones hold up.
nah man, the way you're bashing is just fine. Arrma will probably still be my favourite hobby rc brand, because any weak points can be upgraded easily which I really like. Part of the fun is to buy some upgrades and install it yourself while making your truck unique and stronger. other brands like traxxas don't really offer that same experience. That's just my opinion. 🙃
The only issue I have with that is the part that breaks still the most often is the arms and there really is no good upgrade for those arms. The RPM arms at least in my experience aren't really any better than stock.
Still love my Outcast 8s
Do you have the latest one?
Not a bad unlucky in my opinion. This happens to all the Arrmas. I always replace them with the Hot Racing ones. My Kraton is on the way along with the Hot Racing hubs. I'll be installing those before the first rip.
In this case it wasn't really the hubs that failed it was the CVD.
@DoRC Oh ok. Yeah I also always run the Scorched rc titanium axles. They're pricey. But like I commented before. I like the Aldo Loyal, Duperbash and RC Dude type sends. So axles, diff cups and hubs have to be upgraded. I also have Vitavon and Hit Racing Aluminum Bulkheads on all my rigs. And I mostly break arms. Which is on purpose. That's the cheapest thing. Lol. I'm loving the G2 6S esc and motor combo you presented. I put it on my Typhon. I'm learning from ya bro. So many tips and tricks.
Weird I’ve crashed my Mojave EXB many times and only bent the front hinge pins and a crack in one of the bumper “shocks”. It’s been very durable. Although it does have more body protection and smaller tires than this. It’s also running a castle 1717/MMX8S combo so there is lots of power/torque going through the driveline.
Yeah the arm length tire size and body shape make a huge difference. Cars with full bodies on them like the Mojave very rarely break arms because they're just not exposed.
Im glad I didn't buy it yet, I remember my sledge going faster than this and taking harder hits but it'd still just drive off lol
Overall I think it's a good car. I just need to get this problem figured out.
@@DoRC I know you will! just waiting to see what all this car needs before I get it at some point. Always wanted a k6 as my k8 is too big for my yard
My version 3 mabey 6 s Outcast has actually Never in almost 4 or even more years now. Ever had this problem
My truck has landed so hard on compacted crush gravel which is almost as hard as granite crush
Anywho all Ive done is blown out every screw from the entire bottom of the car minus the steering screws lol.
But I have never constantly had this issue.
There’s one difference what I’ve done that you do not seem to address ever well that I have noticed.
Your front end and rear end the rear the wheels need to be dbl checked their in tow and the dogbone pins sit proper in the diff.
The front end needs your time and energy the arms and shocks need to be in droop and the same as the rear the distance for the dog bone pins in the diff cups have to be dbl checked and adjusted
Uno the shimming pushes the diff sideways yet the shafts don’t move side to side with the diffs.
Anywho keep testing your channel is getting better bro. Keep on grinding hard the vids are killer awesome 👊😎
Yeah M2C shafts are going on next. We'll see if that fixes the problem.
@@DoRC try keeping it stock with those minor adjustments. I do not believe all that extra is the fix. I think it is simple as learning those little things and gaining experience in the trick department.
Truly you must be going for an ultimate break free basher but they simply do not exist. Everything is prone to breaking
Even a Basherbody can be broken if not after time erodes it away or an epic failure occurs.
Either way can’t wait to see more cool vids. It was really gnarly you broke that cvd 👍🤘👊😎
I've never broken a cbd on my kraton's and I'm running metal differentials housing's and one runs 8s. I worked in a foundry for 24 years and that snapping is probably Because the metal is to high tensile and therefore it's going to snap.
Maybe though it only bent both times this time.
Lol so I’ve been running 8s by using 2- gens ace 4s 10000mah 100c battery’s . ???
If they are in series then yes.
Lol i just took the screw off battery tray slide back to fit and ran it. Been driving at 100 percent speed on pavement for 30 min before draining to 30 percent battery shuts off basically thats when i call it a day already had several runs.
@slumpcitychewyhigh What ESC are you running?
All stock right out the box turns on beeps 8 times ready to run
@@Realchewhigh really? I want to try it but I'm afraid to blow up my ESC. These things are not supposed to be 8S compatible
Kraton 4s with the M2C chassis brace all day long
4s is awesome!
It 2am now at my country...
Thanks for staying up late watching :-)
Remove the aluminum red ring on the lower front arms and your cvd will not pop out… i had the same problem. I removed them and it never happened again
Definitely a good tip. I do discuss it in a later video.
@@DoRC well i had the tip from internet 😂 but i had to try it… because it popout really easy… for me it worked it never popout again… and its a really easy fix. I hope works for who read this and has the same problem
@@Gaming_with_rage It's definitely a good tip!
58mph is my guess 4:34
Close:)
7s,
Bro WTH.
Not advised, why are you doing this?? Different MAH, c rating, Brands, I never mix betteries when running two in any application, just not worth the risk. 6s properly geared and cooled should be plenty especially with that ESC, or just go 8s, that would be safer IMHO
It's not that I don't advise 7S it's just that running dissimilar batteries isn't the best idea. I explain it all in the video.
Dude knows what he’s doing if you listened to what he said. Relax.
@@DoRCclassic case of people who don’t listen.
@@PigglyWigglyDeluxe believe who you will brother, every ESC manufacture and Lipo manufacture advises against this for a reason. Pretty common knowledge, he even said it's not the best ideas above, but cool believe who you want.... What the hell do I know😂😂
Yeah I say it's not a good idea in the video multiple times. This was just done for testing. I didn't want to spend the money on a 7S battery if I wasn't going to end up using it. I'll make sure to reiterate that in the next video.
These comments about the truck being to expensive and shouldn't break while lightly bashing is concerning me. Maybe you should nut up and watch Rich Duperbash sesh and then tell me how much they break with the air he gets?
It's not so much about the amount of air. It's about what happens when you land badly. Duperbash lands perfectly almost every time. Most modern bashers can handle that.
@DoRC I've seen him wreck harder than most and still not break it. I've owned kratons for years. They don't break that easy.
@@chrisdavis1059 part of it also depends on how it being presented. He has broken multiple arms on this car.
Also keep in mind it's primarily the height above the ground that determines how much force is going to be imparted on the vehicle when it hits the ground. The horizontal speed please a fairly minor part.
I'm not saying he doesn't bash hard because he does but he also breaks stuff. His channel really isn't about showcasing breakages so they aren't shown to the same degree as a channel like mine would.
I agree that the truck is durable. It's just not as durable as some other vehicles that are currently available and it still has the same weaknesses that it's had for many years. Those weaknesses are also hard to upgrade because no one really makes a significantly better arm for the truck.
I dunno, you seem to be bashing in the same fashion as you do other cars and it's not like those are breaking on every imperfect landing, right? Of course things are going to break and have to be fixed, that's the hobby, but it's not fun when every single bashing session is cut short by the same thing breaking.
Yeah that's kind of how I feel about it. I've bashed a lot of cars in similar ways and I have a pretty good feel for what breaks things and what doesn't.
Not a pillow ball fan at all k5 and all my k6 exb are a huge issue not a fan great job and vibes
I usually don't have too many troubles with the pillow balls and they are a simple setup. Not perfect though
It's funny people always want just a little more power than stock haha. If it's 4 run it on 5 if its 6 run it on 7 haha.
Yeah it's a sickness :-)
@@DoRC I upgraded my outcast 8s then passed its combo to my felony to make it 8s then passed my felony combo to my granite and made it 6s than passed my granite 3s to my mega and made it 3s haha just passed everything down lmao.
@adamneff1600 nice!
I hate pillow balls for bashers.
Generally I don't have too much trouble with them. They're pretty simple and robust.
You can use high quality lipos like cnhl on 6s that will completely destroy your 7s setup. Those lipos you use are just low end cheap batteries with a C rating of less than 10C. Don't believe anything about those lipos.
The dog bone popping out has been an issue since day one years ago nothing new.
You need to install fuel tubing on the shock shaft so it doesn't completely compress and cause the dog bone from popping out.
You can also get really good 7S lipos. The testing I was doing in this video was just using lipos that I already happened to have. I just didn't want to spend the money on a good 7S lipo until I verify that it was going to work and that I liked the setup.
I know that in the past CVDs popping out has been a problem but they extended the output cups to eliminate that and I don't think that's the problem I'm having here. The problem isn't that the CVDs are popping out it's that they are bending and then falling out because when the CVD bends it becomes shorter.
Vitavon will fix that right up
I've got some M2C shafts I'm going to try. Stay tuned :-)
Yes, and no. To bashing too hard. When you hit a fence cause there's no room, umm, just saying.
I do agree, however, anytime you make something stronger, something else is weaker.... just like helicopters and aluminum pieces in the rc world, lol.
Well I don't really have any choice on the fence thing. That's just the room I have to work with :-)
7 s
Wow
Yeah it's pretty good!
well... if this kind of bashing is too hard for this machine, I can only imagine how many they broke when they were filming the adverb for this one. Or how many Rich Duperbash or other Arrma walking adverb signreceived to make hurray videos... sorry but you drive like we are, no hard bashing or something stupid. This behaves so fragile as ice in the summer.
I would say I bash a little bit harder than some people And I also try to crash it because I know that's what most people are going to be doing and I want to see how it will handle what most people will be doing with it. In my opinion landing perfectly really doesn't show that her ability of the vehicle no matter how high up you are.
That being said everybody's experience with RCs is going to be different so mine might not be yours.
Since the truck comes with longer outdrives, pretty sure the cvds touches them when the suspension fully compress. They barely cleared with the older ones. Wtf with you guys running 5 and 7s, run it on 8S if you want, just install a lower KV motor that will habdle it.😵💫
Just because it's fun and something different. I've run 8S on these trucks and it feels like too much. 7S is a little bit more power without going crazy.
U keep breaking it cuz u keep landing hard and going to hard bro cmon lol the weight is more with 7s so launching and landing like that will break 😅
7S battery only weighs about 100 g more than a 6s.
What you're seeing in the video is 1 minute of about a 30 minute bash session. I'm selectively showing the crashes to show what happens.
Basically any modern basher can land perfectly from pretty much any height. If you want proof of that go look at some of the channels that show nothing but perfect landings.
The reality is that none of us land perfectly every time though and I want to show what happens when you don't land perfectly because that's what's important.
Also keep in mind that the other two vehicles I mentioned in the video have been treated exactly the same and have handled it much better.
Thanks for watching :-)
At the end of the day, things break when they are abused. There is no such thing as an indestructible RC. I’m happy with my k6 EXB v2 but I don’t expect it to put up with anyone’s shenanigans without failure. There isn’t an RC I’ve ever had that hasn’t broken in some capacity.
Very true it's just been a while since I've had a car that broke every single time I put a pack in it.
@@DoRC that’s how my XMaxx was. Sold it. Never looked back. The amount of power we have in modern lipos and brushless electronics can far outperform the hardware it’s all attached to. I think most people these days expect too much from their RC. For less than $1000 you can buy a Limitless and 8S spektrum system and suddenly you’re going 110+ and literally any beginner can do that now. It’s actually kinda scary. Back in the day you were the fastest guy in the country going 40+ on 10 cell nimh, which by the way were like $100 for each cell in the 90s.
I think the hobby in general needs a reality check since everything is so obscenely fast now that something always breaks every time it’s driven.
Yeah I definitely understand what you're saying and in a vacuum I would agree about this card as well but like I said I bash a lot of cars and I've got a pretty good sense for what should and shouldn't break something and landing completely flat like I did the last time in the video should not have caused any problems.
@@DoRC sometimes landing flat is super abusive on the truck especially if it’s straight down with no forward momentum and no run-down ramp of any kind. It’s no different than taking it to a skate park. Sure the grassy ground is softer than concrete but not by much when you’re coming down from 20 feet. I would have expected something to fail in those conditions, especially that straight down 20 foot upside down landing. Thats rough.
Man, you are giving old Earl Moorehead some competition, trying to bash, and break stuff with terrible landings, then proceeds to blame Arrma. 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Maybe though the last time it broke wasn't even a crash landing. It landed flat. I bash a lot of different vehicles and it's pretty rare for me to break something every single time I take it out. My bashing style generally doesn't change either.
It’s also on grass and dirt. I really want to pick up a bash truggy and now I’m leaning towards a sledge.
@@John-shreds The Sledge has its own weak points too though. Pretty much any car will. If you want something that's really tough out of the box and doesn't need any upgrades look at the Kagama. It's still my choice for basher of the year.
Yes but do rc and myself bashing in confined spaces when it comes to power weight ratio and the kraton although one of best performing will succumb in these conditions, and if you landed everything perfectly and mastered your course the gears would wear break prematurely compared to all the others , the major contributing factor you don’t see with BRCC is the hubs aren’t extended as they are on the kraton , also you don’t realize the added stability and traction , going just a little faster and harder with this being the downside, I was at work earlier didn’t watch clip closely, the older guy like myself commenting how the force is straight down is really hard is smart, I’ve tested all the Arrmas to point of destruction and rebuilding and a comment saying well I bash like duperbash so you need titanium lol no , it’s the overkill performance in a small environment it’s actually way easier in the rig to send and have lots of time to correct than alternatively sending it straight up with driving force and for most part no room to spread out the energy with the landings , I do the same type of bashing but round round racing myself , typhon is my favorite and only rc comes close in durability “ my maxx “ is floppy and would get lapped , not even in same spektrum , now I can really go nuts with the kraton but I can also destroy it a week or even just get frustrated breaking bending everytime out , so my point environment setup skill and driving are all factors , even my Mojave , every time out I break something I know I can break it every time out , i finally put back together after snapping a axle , bought a set off Amazon and immediately snapped new ones in the middle 😂 shattered on 5 foot jump , at first I was wow I can put cvds in the rear , well went back regular shafts and broke a arm , driver error . First kraton though had me done with Arrmas because I went through diff after diff and I wasn’t looking to put that much money into rc , the 40 bucks for ring pinion , besides time I went through a half dozen what’s that 250 bucks , but I learned with amount of time on the rc by time those ring gears were going the diff cases and cup should be changed too and Jenny’s was a savior because to change everything all once for 40 bucks are so was well worth it and I put more time on the rc in a year than most people do in 10 years ,now I just build them or rebuild them from scratch besides the typhon , I bought exbs because they were 300 bucks or so , kraton been on the shelf new and Mojave is a lot of fun but for 350 I’d start over and negate it to parts
@@DoRC Ohh awesome! I was thinking of the sledge for parts support. Do you think team corally parts will be available throughout the years?
700 dollar truck should NOT BE HAVING PROBLEMS IDC ,. IT TRULY SHOWS WHEN PEOPLE GET PRODUCTS for FREE,PEOPLE ARE SCARED TO SAY.ITS OVER priced and is not good. The stock electronics are garbage. So let me spend another couple hundred. Plus it seems like only M2C CAN SOLVE THESE driveshaft issues? Horseshit.,GTFOH. SO SAID AND DONE,A R8G THAT IS NEW THAT YOU NEED TO KEEP FIXING?INSANITY
I'm not sure who you are referring to about getting products for free but I paid full price for this just like I do for just about everything.
I don't think the stock electronics are bad at all. They actually work very well including the servo.
I agree that it is annoying that this is having a problem but at least in my experience pretty much all RCs have problems and weak points.
Told you there was a crack 😂😂😂I love Arrmas but you’re just reminding me why I have a new kraton on the shelf , yes your bashing to hard in a sence bad landings won’t be forgiven , that said if you’re consistent and landing perfectly the kraton will disseminate itself faster than any other arrma , even the larger ones , so I build my own Arrmas and the main thing is the kraton and outcast are the widest with the most rotation mass , and outcast is ok because realistically you’re rarely getting all the power down instead flipping or controlling where the kraton will out perform any basher on the market bar none but you will be chasing your tail with repairs . Why I always say if you’re no where near the racing type than sure traxxas is better but if you really want to next level bash you need a arrma or techno
You made no since
I always mix and match hubs stub axles and arms adjusting the with and if I do keep the full with I go with smaller wheeels , matter fact since LP backflips I don’t really use the full size wheels . My bashing is my back yard and can be rough but impacts bad landings isn’t really the issues Ive had with Arrmas it’s keeping the diffs from stripping 20 30 40 packs in and than changing ring pinion after going through the whole rig for it to strip shortly afterwards, I learned once they get a certain amount of run time you have to change the bulkhead and diff cup , sure aluminum will last longer but it will spread the problem somewhere else as your experiencing in a few runs , I’m telling u I got so fed up with arrma with the first kraton after loving the first outcast and never having any issues,
I get that with bad landings but I have bad landings all the time with a lot of vehicles. It's pretty rare to break one every single time I take it out.
Yeah I'm just not sure about this one. I usually have good luck with their platforms but it's really rare for me to break something every single time I take it out which I have so far with this one. That being said maybe just a set of M2C CVDs will fix the problem. Other than that issue I really like the car.
@@DoRC agree , I know what you mean , I praised the the granite as best rc for 300 bucks , l literally wore every part through usage with no breaks , the brcc comes out and every single time something would break , it made no sence , sure it’s a tad longer but still , I attest it now horizon was making Arrmas in a different plant and the plastic was possibly different, idk 🤷 😂
I’m not sure you should be telling people how to use unmatched batteries together if a younger or just less experienced person does this and gets hurt it could look very bad for you and the hobby in general. JS be careful doing stuff out of the norm.
Fair enough though I feel like I pretty thoroughly described why it was a bad idea. I also feel like I described how to do it safely. Fortunately there really isn't much danger of someone getting hurt because the worst you're going to do is over discharge a battery and kill it. Usually over discharging batteries doesn't cause any sort of catastrophic failure.