Excellent video. I have a '68 Fury VIP that I did something a bit different with. My gauge has not burned up, so what I did was run a heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the battery connection on the starter relay and made sure the wire had its own fusible link taking the load off my original wire which I later disconnected the wires from the ammeter and put together safely. Fortunately, my firewall connectors had never been messed with and are in surprisingly good shape. Didn't want to take the chance on a car that's now 55 years old, when I've seen Mopars with less age, but more miles have their ammeter fail.
Ammeters are not the source or cause of these problems. If you don’t want over heated ammeter/bulkhead connections, don’t place added loads at the battery on these original charging systems. Ammeters or ammeter connections don’t spontaneously combust for no reason. That’s a myth. Full system load through the ammeter/bulkhead connectors? While in operation? No, only when the engine is not running will the ammeter and related connections be subject to full system loads. Engine running, fully charged battery, there will be little to no current through the ammeter, needle centered. What kills bulkhead connections and ammeter insulators on these, as original charging systems, is mis-placed added loads at the battery. Any loads added at the battery pulls all it’s current across all of the charging circuit components and connections from the alternator, as the alternator is the power source while the charging system is in operation. It’s that added current that melts down terminals and insulators, places entire circuit well outside of its original design limits. All factory loads are handled on the alternator side of the ammeter. On an ammeter-based charging system such as this, there can be no added loads on the battery side of the ammeter. All loading needs to on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all factory loads. The ammeter is designed to register battery charge/discharge status only while the charging system is in operation. It is not designed to handle any other loading, as original, will not register full vehicle loads.
So if I understand you right. Don’t place any additional load on the system after it goes through the amp gage? Basically it only designed for the factory load on the fuse box? Working on a 65 bel with this type set up. Thx.
Ammeters are actually very useful! More useful than voltmeter.
Most people just don’t know how to read / use them.
Excellent video. I have a '68 Fury VIP that I did something a bit different with. My gauge has not burned up, so what I did was run a heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the battery connection on the starter relay and made sure the wire had its own fusible link taking the load off my original wire which I later disconnected the wires from the ammeter and put together safely. Fortunately, my firewall connectors had never been messed with and are in surprisingly good shape. Didn't want to take the chance on a car that's now 55 years old, when I've seen Mopars with less age, but more miles have their ammeter fail.
Glad it’s working for you. Mine was beyond repair. I’ll post another video soon.
Why not split the load by running a dedicated charge wire from the battery to the alternator?
You sound like a pro in the making ... nice video.
why not just bypass the bulkhead and ammeter entirely and run the black wire to the battery?
Ammeters are not the source or cause of these problems. If you don’t want over heated ammeter/bulkhead connections, don’t place added loads at the battery on these original charging systems. Ammeters or ammeter connections don’t spontaneously combust for no reason. That’s a myth. Full system load through the ammeter/bulkhead connectors? While in operation? No, only when the engine is not running will the ammeter and related connections be subject to full system loads. Engine running, fully charged battery, there will be little to no current through the ammeter, needle centered. What kills bulkhead connections and ammeter insulators on these, as original charging systems, is mis-placed added loads at the battery. Any loads added at the battery pulls all it’s current across all of the charging circuit components and connections from the alternator, as the alternator is the power source while the charging system is in operation. It’s that added current that melts down terminals and insulators, places entire circuit well outside of its original design limits. All factory loads are handled on the alternator side of the ammeter. On an ammeter-based charging system such as this, there can be no added loads on the battery side of the ammeter. All loading needs to on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all factory loads. The ammeter is designed to register battery charge/discharge status only while the charging system is in operation. It is not designed to handle any other loading, as original, will not register full vehicle loads.
So if I understand you right. Don’t place any additional load on the system after it goes through the amp gage? Basically it only designed for the factory load on the fuse box? Working on a 65 bel with this type set up. Thx.
ruclips.net/video/hN4RpVEi7U4/видео.html@@dannyamericandream
@@dannyamericandream He is wrong.
@@oldblueaccord2629 I bet you can't even begin to explain why he's wrong.
@@oldblueaccord2629no he’s absolutely correct.