20th Episode Special - How to Start and Operate a 1956 Caterpillar D6 9U Bulldozer! PDF INCLUDED!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2022
- 20 EPISODES??? ALREADY?? Holy cow does the time fly.
Now, full disclosure - if you go through my video feed you will only see 19 videos. The reason is because earlier in the year I condensed two shorter videos into one longer video after they were already published. So on a timeline, this is my 20th episode, even though it is only the 19th video in the list.
Anyway, for this episode I wanted to create something that I wish existed when I bought this bulldozer - a comprehensive tutorial of how to start the bulldozer, how to operate all the controls, and how to drive it so that you can actually get work done with this monster of a machine!
As I've said several times so far, my intent is to finish up everything I need to do with the bulldozer in the next few weeks, and then sell it. Because of this, I figured this would also be a nice resource for the new owner - showing that this is a really nice condition bulldozer, that is capable of doing some incredible amounts of work, and showing how to use the bulldozer on the actual bulldozer they will be buying!
I've tried to capture all the main points of using this bulldozer, with the exception of the mechanical maintenance. There is a book that covers all of that, which I received with the bulldozer and which will go along with it when I sell it. However, there is an operator's guide which I scanned to a PDF and which I am providing using the link below - I'm sure people out there will find this interesting and possibly helpful... so please check out the link below:
drive.google.com/file/d/1MbzS...
I hope you all enjoy this video. Thank you for helping me grow this channel, and thank you for allowing me to create fun and interesting content on the process of rehabilitating an old farm into something that will once again be usable and enjoyable!
If anyone has any questions or comments, please feel free to send me an email. ALSO, are you in the market for a bulldozer when I sell this one? Let me know. :-)
BuyingTheFarmNY@gmail.com
Thanks for watching, and see you on the next video!!
Equipment used in this video
------------------------------------------------
3M WorkTunes Connect Hearing Protection: amz.run/5q3A
1956 Caterpillar D6 9U Bulldozer (with Forestry Package)
DJI Mavic Mini Drone: amz.run/5L9l
GoPro Hero 11: amz.run/5zHr
GoPro Hero 9: amz.run/5HdI
GoPro Hero 9 Screen Protectors: amz.run/5HdJ
ULANZI G9-5 Aluminum Cage: amz.run/5HdD
ULANZI MT-16 Extendable Hand-Grip Tripod: amz.run/5HdH
GoPro Hero 9 3.5mm Mic Adapter: amz.run/5HdE
Rode VideoMicro Compact Microphone: amz.run/5HdG
Andoer CL-36 Bi-Color LED Video Light: amz.run/5HdK
TOMSHEIR Quick Battery Charger: amz.run/5HdM
Large GoPro Carying Case: amz.run/5HdL 
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Nice dozer, I have one but a '53. Clutch is meant to be on or off.. If you're going to drive, snap the clutch lever on and let it engage fully. Slowly pulling it on-off you will lead to premature wear to the clutch and throw-out bearing and a expensive bill.
Carl, thanks for the comment and the suggestion! The previous owner told me that the clutch lever was used as the accelerator and overall control lever, and you had to constantly vary its engagement depending on what you're doing, engine load (how much you're pushing or pulling), and all the other factors that contribute to how fast you need to be going on the dozer. That is very interesting that this may not actually be the case. If the clutch isn't meant to vary the speed, power, etc., then what controls that aspect of the dozer? The engine throttle lever above the right brake pedal? I appreciate the insight!!
@@BuyingTheFarm Clutch is there to dis-engage the motor from the driveline, everyone has at one point slowly engaged in order to make a precise movement at one point ie winching-blade install- track reinstall- next to buildings. Gear selection and throttle variation are used for speed and power.
Operators manual states, Carefully engage the flywheel clutch until the slack is taken up between the tractor and the load. When the tractor begins to move the load, pull the clutch lever all the way back so the engaging mechanism will snap over center and remain fully engaged. Never move a load with the flywheel clutch only partially engaged as this will cause heating and rapid unnecessary wear on the clutch plates.
@@carldodds4288 this is excellent info Carl!! Thanks so much for providing guidance and experience!
well said to add to that you should leave the clutch fully engaged when getting on or off as there's a transmission interlock that will keep you from going into gear if you were to fall or bump the gear shifter, or if the throw-out bearing fails for any reason the cat it then could send you for a ride or move when you not expecting it to be. you have greased the throw-out bearing in the flywheel right? as per the CAT manual the only time the clutch should be disengaged is when changing gears.
Thanks for that... Figuring out my d6 atm :D
Thank you for the video, reminds me of when I was a small kid sitting in my Grandpa's lap learning how to drive a cat, and till his property.
How cool - definitely great memories I’d imagine. Owning this machine has definitely made an impression on me and my own memories! :-)
wow...thats one heck of list of instructions to start. I thought I was listening to a Dr Seuss story time... holy cow...
Hahahaha - it's a process, Mark!!!! :-)
An absolute superb, thoughtful, informative and educational video my friend. I drove a tank in the Marines and did not have the levers you got there. Although, currently in a much different profession now (white collar) I previously drove a flatbed tractor trailer cross country. I often look for opportunities to get out of the office to get ( blu collar) dirty. I still maintain my Cass A CDL to this very day. In my travels, (I live around "the corner") I often go by your farm in hopes of catching you there so I can shake your hand. If you arrive at the farm someday and notice a tent erected with someone in it........IT'S NOT ME! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣..... again....GREAT JOB on this video!
HI Stephen! Funny you mention tractor trailers... someone else posted a comment comparing the complexity of seeing this bulldozer's controls for the first time, to that of seeing a semi's gauges for the first time. I'm interested to hear of your tank driving experience - I would think there would be a LOT of controls for that as well (both tracked vehicles) - how interesting though. Thank you for your service! Yeah I have a very white-collar career in a high-tech field, and one of the appeals of getting this property and puttering around the way I have been this year is because it is about as exact opposite as you can get from what I do for a living. It is nice to get dirty a little, and use the other side of your brain (and a few of those muscles as well, that don't normally get used)! As I've said, if you ever see me out there, feel free to stop by! I'm glad you get to see the videos and then see the real-deal in person. Hahaha. Thanks for leaving me a comment! :-)
Over a month ago there was a huge antique farm tractor auction about 20 minutes away from where I live. Unbeknownst to me there was also a running, 1950's Caterpillar D-6 among the farm tractors. To "throw salt in the wound", I later learned that it went cheap with only one bid on it. If I were closer to your location, I'd make you an offer but with fuel at 6 bucks a gallon and $1000 to fill a semi, it just wouldn't be feasible.
Oh man, what a bummer missing out on that. But who would ever think that there would be a huge dozer at an antique tractor auction. Well, they're out there... keep looking and I'm sure you'll find one eventually. They're amazing machines!! :-)
Watch is the deperance he can run forward 3 meters automatic he can stop and also the revers
Awesome video man! Thanks a ton for posting the PDF with the operators manual!
Hi Kevin! You've very welcome - I figured there would be people out there who would find the PDF useful. When I bought the bulldozer I had NOTHING as a reference except the literature... there were very few videos showing how to operate the dozer. I wanted to create the video that I wish existed when I bought it! :-)
well done video but another read of the manual might help with getting the most out of your caterpillar as not everything you showed was right. you should have the diesel fuel in the full-off passed the detent before starting as the raw fuel washes the oil off the cylinder walls. then you wait for the oil presser to come up on the main Engine before truing on the compression. The fuel is still off now is the time you check the main engine oil. it is not uncommon to run the pony motor for 5-10 minutes truing the main engine then give it fuel and will come to life with no need for either. some of these small things are why they have lasted 70 years. keep up the good work
This is excellent information, and I truly appreciate the knowledge transfer. My starting instructions were based on the previous owner, who said that due to the age and wear of the engine, the normal starting procedures weren't always effective. That said, I never tried any other way because I didn't want to cause damage. I find this all very interesting, and you comments are completely in-line with the comments that other people provided, who had first-hand knowledge and experience with this age machine. Your comment has been collected for the masses who may watch this video in the future! Much appreciated. :-)
Great Video. Keep us in mind Dave! 🚜💰
George - yeah, say the word and it's yours - you've already been in contact and you get first dibs. Easy. :-) I rebuilt the carb today and I'm awaiting a new fuel shutoff/sediment bowl on Sunday - I'm going to start reassembly on Sunday and hopefully have it rockin-and-rollin again by next weekend!
Thank you for the video at work we have one of those bulldozer without the winch it's been 35 years since someone drove it we are trying to move it to it's final resting place
Oh very nice - thank you for leaving a comment. I hope you get it fired up and running!! Drop me a comment if you have questions or if you get it fired up after watching the video! :-)
Thank you very much for the pdf. Take care.
You’re most welcome! Thanks for stopping by!
Good video!
About your starting instructions at: 8:15, If you read the starting instructions in the operators manual you will see that the diesel fuel/throttle lever should be in the off or closed position till the diesel engine is turned over on compression for a few minutes to heat the engine before opening the throttle. the amount of this preheat will depend on the ambient temperature. It is also a very good idea to check for diesel engine oil pressure before releasing the decompression lever.
Also note at 11:30, never use the clutch brake to stop the dozer from rolling. Always use the foot brake(s) to stop the dozer. The clutch brake is not intended to stop the tractor, only to stop the clutch from turning.
Jim, GREAT ADVICE. When I purchased the dozer, the previous owner urged me to not go by the manual and to follow the instructions he provided instead. He said that the engine is old, things have loosened up, and if I wanted to ensure it would start and operate then I should follow his instructions. SO, I did, and never once referred to the manual. This was out of fear that I might break something (and there would be NO WAY to repair it around here). But you're right - the manual shows very detailed (and different) procedures for how to start it. :-)
Great tutorial.
Thank you for the comment. Be sure to look through some of the other comments from this video, as EXPERIENCED users have made note of corrections to the procedure that I posted. I want to make sure you have all the info you need! :-)
These are great old machines. I’ve owned two of them. If you are leaving it sit and run always put the main trans in neutral and engage the clutch to keep from running the throw out bearing
Hey Jeff! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I actually sold it a year ago this week, but the new owners report that it is alive and running strong! :-)
Does make it very obvious that machine drivers with a dual joystick operation experience fear these machines.
Very good point - there is a learning curve. As I have had no previous experience with heavy equipment (except driving a Bobcat a few times), I didn't come into this with a preexisting skill set. I can see where it could become confusing or frustrating though, if you had a lot of experience with some other type of control set!
You gotta love and appreciate a D6 9U. If you was planning on keeping it, do yourself a huge favor and ditch the pony motor and convert it to electric start and throw on a intake grid heater for cold weather starting days!
Hey - thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! How very interesting - I did not know there was an electric start option for the diesel - I figured the torque needed to spin that up greatly exceeded what an electric start system could accomplish. It is fascinating to think there may be a retrofit kit for this year dozer! Do you happen to have any info??
Nice video you made telling how to start and operate the dozer, the pony engine has drain cocks for letting extra fuel/gas drain out of cylinder after running it, carb leaks some on them. At timeline 13:43 wearing the brakes out needlessly, please don't use them like that or your next video will be about replacing brake pads/liners. Take care and stay safe, keep up the good work!!
Roney, thanks so much for the insight and for taking the time to leave a comment!! I wish I had known about the drain cocks sooner - those caused me weeks of headaches trying to get the pony motor to fire. Can you elaborate on the use of the brakes? To turn you need to both apply a brake and pull the corresponding lever. At that point in the video I was showing a slight left and slight right turn. I’m always interested in gaining insight from people who have been doing this a lot longer than myself! Thanks!
@@BuyingTheFarm I can only speak for the older Cats I ran, D5-C and D-8, but the steering can be accomplished without undue wear by the levers alone, *if* the clutches they operate are properly adjusted and within wear spec. For example, when initiating a left hand turn, pull the left lever towards you, which engages a series of clutch plates on the left hand drive, slowing it while allowing the right drive to run at normal speed. This accomplishes the turn. When making a spot turn, the brake pedal can be used to fully stop the powered down track which will allow the dozer to turn in it's own length. Levers for larger radius turns, levers + brakes for short, low power, 1st gear turns in a tight spot on looser material - if you jump a track off trying to turn short on a slope or in rough, rocky ground, you'll remember the re-tracking experience forever. If possible, always advisable to perform a short turn in a small series of forward/reverse moves to save on undercarriage stresses, easier on track links, drive sprocket/idler, etc. Unless you're building road, doing switchbacks or decks, clearing in tight wooded areas, confined spaces, there's not much reason to be spinning in place. Why a dozer operates at a faster gear ratio going backwards - they're made to push, or get back to where they push quickly as possible.
@@BuyingTheFarm He's talking about riding the brakes like you do.
You want to pull the steering clutch lever first, then apply brake as needed.
You can also just pull the lever and make a gradual turn. The brake band around the drum is not going to last long the way your doing it.
Also the main drive clutch is not designed to vary your speed. You need to Snap it in or out to prevent wear. You can "Tease" it a little for controlled movement, but remember your slipping it and causing wear.
When the pony is spinning the diesel dont move the lever to start until you see the oil pressure come up to pressure. Takes a minute or 3.
John, great input - thanks for watching and for leaving a comment. The previous owner didn't mention anything about the oil pressure gauge, and people have been nice enough to provide that suggestion and commentary since I posted the video. His instructions were to give it a shot of ether and it'll fire right up. Sadly, this wasn't the best course of action!!
Kind of amazing that it has some many levers and such. I'm sure it's rather easy to run once you've been on it for a few mins.
Kinda like driving a semi. Sure you first look at the dash of one and think that you'd never remember all the gauges and such, honestly the most of the gauges that's on the dash you don't really pay much attention to. The main few are temp, fuel, air pressure.
As far as boost and all the other crap that's basically for mechanics or the dieharders that have to tinker with something all the time.
Awesome video as always.
Now get back to work making more videos. 🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍
Lonnie, I didn't really ever think about a semi... but yeah, that's a good comparison. Once you know how to drive it, I'm sure its natural - but an outsider would be confused! Same with this. It took about an hour of fiddling around, and then about 10 minutes of honest work, and everything sorta made sense. It 's really pretty intuitive once you start using it. Oh trust me, videos are coming - I spent all of today recording my engine disassembly and carb rebuild. More on that next week - I'm waiting for Amazon to deliver a few needed parts. :-)
@@BuyingTheFarm spent 20 yrs behind the wheel of a semi.
Started out with the Freightliner Classic XL. (Freightliners biggest truck with the worst turning radius). Put them in areas they should of never of fit.
Took 2 yrs to see all 48 states, and both boarders.
Wow - that's a lot of driving, Lonnie. I like driving, but perhaps not that much! Hahaha
@@BuyingTheFarm can't say for sure unless I went back to each company to get the exact numbers. But I should have something like 3 million mile behind me.
What's really sad is that when I started doing it I hated driving, that part hasn't changed over those 20 yrs.
There were some areas I actually did enjoy running through more than others.
The back roads of most any state was totally awesome.
New York, Pennsylvania, Wyoming, Utah, Arizona, California, chances are that in those that I just mentioned were the few that I didn't mind the back roads due to the view out the front windows.
Oh I've been through the main roads and back roads of all of those states, Lonnie - and many more. I get to travel a lot for work, but fortunately the major commute is by airplane! Hahaha. I can't imagine 3 million miles!!!!!!!!
كنت أملك واحد منها ❤❤❤❤❤
كم هو رائع جدا!! شكرًا لك على المشاهدة وتخصيص الوقت لترك تعليق. آمل أن تشاهد بعض مقاطع الفيديو الأخرى الخاصة بي :-)
Hello, This has been VERY helpful!! I have a similar d6 that sat for 15-20 years. I have the pony, engine and hydraulics working but I have concerns about the clutch. Does your dozer have a dry clutch? I cannot seem to get the clutch to stop spinning when I push forward. The engine bogs down like they are not independent from each other. When I try to push the handle and engage a forward or reverse gear it just grinds. I am assuming the fact that I cannot get the clutch brake to stop the clutch is the problem. I am not sure. If you have a dry clutch did make any videos that show it engaging with the panel opened up? Trying to figure out what might be wrong if anything with my clutch.
Hey there! I'm very happy that you found this video helpful! Unfortunately I do not know if it is a dry or wet clutch (I finished the dozing project and sold it in the fall). I do know that the previous owner had to notch out the floor about an inch or two in the front of where the clutch lever is, probably because over time things loosened up and the clutch wasn't fully engaging. That said, I also experienced the problem where engaging forward or reverse would grind in both directions. I found that occurred most often when I was on an incline or decline. I would throw the gear selector in neutral, engage the clutch, move the drive lever both forward as well as reverse, throw the gear selector back into 1st gear, and most times that made things normal again (not sure why). HOWEVER, if your clutch is just spinning free and the clutch brake isn't disengaging the system, you're just going to grind away. Sadly I'm not a mechanic so I don't have much to contribute here. Have you googled the problem? I found a LOT of help through CAT forums!
The video has been so helpful.... Do you have a copy of the parts manual for the dozer?
Hi Samuel! I'm so happy you found the video useful. Unfortunately no, the only thing that is scannable was the PDF I linked in the video description. The original manual is quite large/thick and would be very difficult to scan or photograph. HOWEVER, this is still a supported model by CAT. So, if you contact a local CAT dealer in your area, they can still get you an OEM service manual with all the parts in the dozer. Likewise, there are numerous aftermarket service manuals for this year/model as well. :-)
I've been following your videos to get a D69U back to running after 15 years. I'm ignorant about oils. What would be a recommended oil Brand to use on a machine like this? I know I'm going to be using SAE 30. Does it really matter what Brand to use? Just make sure of the SAE number and it's for Diesel Engines? And the same oil would be used for the Pony Motor?
Hi Steven! Unfortunately I am not a mechanic and have absolutely no idea what is appropriate or not appropriate for the D6-9u. When I purchased mine, it was freshly serviced - new oil, fluids, filters, etc., and the owner said it didn't have to be serviced for another couple hundred hours. I only put about 25 hours on it while I owned it (which completed my project with it) at which point I sold it. As this is a very common machine with a lot of owner interest groups out on the Internet, I'd say just do some searching. Also, the manuals are online and commonly available as PDF documents (one with this video, and on many other websites). Brands don't really matter - as long as the numbers match up! :-)
So you taught yourself to be a "proficient" catskinner in 10 minutes?
Excuse me while I LMAO.
What's a catskinner?? And 10 minutes? No. I had about 20 hours on the machine at the time I sold it. The purpose of the video was to document the instructions and processes the former owner showed me over the course of last year (when I owned it)..... so that I would remember them, or so that the new owner could refer to them when I sold the bulldozer. Lots of useful people have provided valuable comments correcting some of the procedures that I was taught when I purchased the machine. Read through the comments. Your comment provides neither value nor worth. Thanks for increasing my view count though.
would you mind having the service manual in pdf too, I bought one also a little bit of a basket case, have some parts to put back were they go etc. any idea where to get sprockets for the old d6 9u, thanks for the video
Hey there! Sadly I do not have the manual in PDF form. It was about 200 pages. I sold the dozer and all manuals back in November. If you contact a CAT dealer though, you can get one. Despite its age it is still a supported model (parts, books, etc.)
Certainly riding the clutch.
Yeah, I was DEFINITELY riding the clutch. In hindsight, I was given some pretty poor operating instructions by the previous owner. I have since sold the dozer, and the new owners are taking care of it and it is running GREAT!
I appreciate your detailed video. One thing that you failed to address was where and what kind of oil this dozer needs. I have the same dozer and would appreciate your help. I see a few dip sticks on the right side of the diesel engine, an oil filler cap under the fuel tank in the rear as well as a dip stick in front of the seat on the floor. Could someone tell me what goes in where? Thanks!
Yeah there’s tons of fill locations from the very front of the engine all the way to the back of the winch. There’s an equal amount of drains. Unfortunately I’m not a mechanic and have absolutely no idea what types of oil the dozer uses, or what type goes where. There’s a lot of info in the linked pdf file… and even more info in the manuals you can download across the internet if you search for “caterpillar d6 9u manual pdf”. The dozer was fully serviced, including all fluids, just before I bought it. In total I put about 25 hours on the dozer from July to November, at which point I sold it. Most fluid or filter changes are measured in hundreds of hours - so it was still good to go when I sold it.
Your going to miss all that iron and those levers and linkage and snortin power , good luck .
You're absolutely right.... it is a bittersweet decision. However, there's a lot of heavy equipment on the market and I don't necessarily NEED this piece anymore - so I'd rather someone take it and user it, rather than it rotting away sitting simply because I think it's cool. :-)
Should never need to use starting fluid, not good for the engine. The idea of the pony motor is that U can turn the motor on half then on full compression with throttle closed allowing the cylinders to heat up before opening the throttle. The winch lever is not a free spool lever, it is the brake lever for the winch drum. I learnt to operate on machines of that era when I first started working.
Ross, thanks for adding to the dialog with this video. Your experience is valuable to all the people who watch this video as a tutorial for how to operate this machine. As I have posted to various comments, when I purchased the machine the previous owner said NOT to follow the operating instructions, and rather follow his starting instructions as the machine is old and out of tolerance and won't start without starting fluid and without a specific sequence of events. As I was terrified of breaking the machine with no way to repair it, I never even though of trying any other procedure other than what he showed me. However, the more I have read peoples' comments, the more I realize that these old machines are infinitely more reliable and resilient and dependable than anything newer, and very likely the original starting instructions probably would have worked perfectly! Thanks for leaving a comment and watching the video. :-)
👍👍👍👍👍👌
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, Lawrence!
I'ma say right now that the way I just started that dozer is completely incorrect, Iv been working on and operating these era of equipment since I was 17 years old, first you never have the fule in the on position for the diesel engine leave it in the off position, second, after getting the pony engine running (gas starting motor) make sure decompression for main engine is in start position, then engage the pony engine to the main engine, both engines share coolant and doing it this way allows the starting motor not to overheat and allows it to pre heat the water to make starting the main engine easier, next make sure you throttle up the pony engine and the walk around to a position where you can check the oil pressure gauge for the diesel engine, doing this saves on bearing wear in the main engine and increases the life of the engine. trust me you don't want to have to spend the 12-15000$ to have someone rebuild the diesel engine... only after you have performed the above then your ready to get the main engine running, the proper way ( according to Cat check your book if you don't believe me) would be to close the decompression lever and let the pony engine run the main line that for 2 to 5 minutes this helps build heat in the engine, diesels are a compression ignition system and they start easier this way after letting it run that way for a little bit crack the throttle open to the main engine and it should come to life... now the other way would be (after pony engine is running and you checked to make sure oil psi to the main engine is up) open throttle on main engine to about 1/3-1/2 spray a brisk amount of your summer in a can in main engine air filter and then close decompression to run position, main engine will start up, now shut gas off to pony engine and let run out until engine dies, never turn off using magneto switch, after that check the diesel engine oil level is up to par before operating ( Caterpillars of this era say right on the dip stick check when running) don't forget about that.) next oil throw out bearing for the clutch and your ready to go. moreover if your going to let it run for more then 2-5min and not be moving make sure transmission is in neutral and make sure clutch is engaged this saves on prematurely wearing out the throwout bushing.
Nathan, I love your phrase "summer in a can" - I've never heard of that. Also, THANK YOU for this!! As I stated in reply to numerous comments within this video, the previous owner specifically told me NOT to follow the original operating instructions, as things were well out of tolerance and the dozer would only start the way depicted in the video. SO, for the few months I owned the dozer, that's all I did. It wasn't until well after I sold it that people started posting very detailed descriptions of how the machine should have actually been started. So, to that end, I never even got the opportunity to try to see if the machine would still start using the original procedure. I feel that this is a shame, because if almost 80 years later the machine still starts using those original procedures, then man, that's one hell of a well-built machine!!! :-)
@@BuyingTheFarm ya they sure don't make them like they used to, I really enjoy running the older equipment myself, I feel like it's more of an art and takes a better operator to one run of them compared to newer equipment, Iv had really good luck working on them as well , and I don't mind that there a little bit more needy on maintenance but I think it gives the opportunity to the operator to check on everything and see if anything got messed up or needs adjusted..,
bought my first dozer from my adopted grandparents, they got it via inheritance and after about 5-6 years I told them if they ever wanted to sell it to let me know what they wanted for it and in that regard, it's something special to me one because it's a bit of a mix of two different size dozers and even during the time my grandparents owned it I still did most of the wrenching on it.. I grew up around my neighbors having a 47-48 model d4 with the forestry package (hyster d4n wiench, 4 way blade and long track frame, an a headache saver. lol. so u could safety assume I watched as often as I could when it was running, or under repair, now caterpillar is my favorite but when it comes to my allis I don't let anyone run it but me with how many quirks it has it's like being married kinda lol. but she's a hd5b (b stands for wide track frame, that has been lengthened to fit the hd7s 3-71 screeming Jimmy , that was rebuilt idk when , has 5 lower rollers on each side like the bucket loaders track frame one side has 2 lower rollers off of a cat on one side, and 21 inch wide shoes, forestry package obviously, I am a cat logger by trade of you haven't noticed Lol. my friend that passed away this last year watched me yard on a turn so heavy the nose of her was pointing at the skies , I was pretty exciting
Holy cow - what an awesome recollection. Yes, I have found that when it comes to older machinery, people are very drawn to it both for sentimental reasons, but also because they feel it is built better and more serviceable. Being brand new to all of this, and having only had older equipment, I guess I don't have any horror stories of newer stuff. I love hearing peoples' stories though - it is touching that a video like this can spark memories and be the catalyst to retell such stories! Thanks a ton for sharing. I hope you'll stay tuned for more videos coming up. :-)
I own a 58' D69U...... Driving it is like a Monkey F*cking a Fotball
HAHAHAHAHAHA - Dennis, that is the most accurate description I've heard, EVER!!!! :-)
I’ll pass u can keep it
It sold last year. You’re safe. :-)
You obviously never read or don't understand your operators manual!
I've never been on a piece of heavy machinery in my life... so I went by the tutorial from the previous owner. Seemed to have worked just fine. Is there something specific you're referring to??? A comment like this indicates some veiled information that is yet to be disclosed.......
It's covered in the owners manual. Cats intention is for the starting engine to warm the main engine. You start your starting engine and get it running good. The water pump on the starting engine will circulate coolant to the main engine.
Have your decompression lever in the crank position and your throttle lever is in the KILL position. Engage your starting engine clutch and begin turning over the main engine. After the oil warms up to a point you throw the compression lever in the start position. This is then compressing the air in the cylinders. When you compress air the air heats thus adding heat to the engine along with the starting engine.
Let it run with the compression lever in start mode for a time and when you think it may run then you throw the fuel to it. If it starts your golden. If not return the throttle to kill and let the cylinders warm some more. Throw the fuel to it again after 30 seconds or so.
On a 40 degree day it may take 3 to 4 minutes from start to running if things are in good shape. Longer if not.
This is how I start mine. I currently have 2 with the starting engine and 2 with direct electric start and am scrapping another. A lot of people like to throw the fuel to it early and watch it smoke. All you are doing is polluting your engine oil and washing the oil from your cylinder walls. The 2 I have with the starting engines are consecutive numbers I found about 20 miles apart a few years ago.
I would also like to add, you should keep this machine. With a place like you have its worth having around. Even if you don't use it much they are fun to just sit on and text your buddies that don't have A 9U!
Hahahaha - this is all EXCELLENT information!! So, I watched about 20 different videos on how to properly start the engine(s) and literally every one had different procedures. Similar to how the previous owner indicated I should start this one. I will say, during the summer months the engine started rapidly with no need for starter fluid, but I never attempted it with the fuel off to start with. This is very interesting. The dozer sold about 3 weeks ago and is covered in one of my recent videos, with a link to their RUclips channel. Big Spruce Farm. :-)
Ok now do you know how to push dirt
Lol I mean, when you drop the blade, dirt will move!!! If you’re asking if I am a skilled operator, that would be a resounding NO!! :-)
@@BuyingTheFarm just checking trying to see what you know my self am a fa boy and myself was around tractors and dozens from age 2 my dad had my on a old 40.john deer crawler when I had to stand in front of the seat to be able to pull on steering clutch and reach the break and clutch he walked along beside to make sure I didn't get into trouble but the store is at age 60 if u don't think you know it all I learn something every day the sky is the limit
What a cool story. Nah, never in my life did I ever think I would need to operate heavy machinery for any purpose, let alone own any…. And then along comes this farm!! Like you said, every day ends up being a learning experience of SOMETHING. :-)
Llll Ike the dozer
Thanks so much!! :-)
dont sell it,,,i was in same place you are,,,and every year it seems i find more work to do around the yard with the old cat,,,,sure i have back hoe and other tractors,,,but you cant beat steel tracks
You aint' kidding about that... but sadly I did sell it. I sold it to some other RUclipsrs that are doing a similar project as mine a few hours away. Every few months though I reflect that it would be nice if I had a dozer for some of these tasks. The issue is that one was just TOO BIG for most of what I needed to do. Maybe someday down the road I'll get a smaller one. :-)
😬😬😬 looks like a rat nest on that wench 😬😬 that's going to cause you to have to replace really expensive bow line in a hurry you never want free slack on the drum, I can't tell you how many times I've had to help get a rat nest undone on one and your hands end up getting stabbed full of metal slivers and cuts or if it's really in bad shape you end up getting the cutting torch out have to cut up a 500$+ line 😬
Hi Nathan! Yeah the cable wasn't in great shape at all... it looks like it had been bent so many times, it was nearly impossible to get it on straight and smooth. The ideal solution probably would have been to replace the cable, but my intent with the bulldozer was to get the job done in a couple months and sell it... which is what ended up happening. IF I was going to keep it, I definitely would have started doing some major upgrades and maintenance. :-)
in the first place it’s not that big of a bullldozer and second I all ready know how to run bulldozers
Hi Bryon. Well, it's all about perspective I guess. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. For me, who has never touched a piece of heavy equipment, it is a pretty darn big bulldozer. Also, I'm glad you are familiar with running bulldozers - it has been quite the challenge for me. The purpose of this video was more for the new owner, to do a knowledge exchange from the previous owner to me, and from me to the new owner. If other people find use out of the video, that is good too. Some nice commenters corrected me on some of the incorrect procedures the former owner passed along to me. The dialog of the comments, as well as the content of the video will be helpful for some people out there who (like me) are less experienced with this type of equipment.
I grew up with these machines, the pony motor and diesel engine share a common cooling system. It might take some time in colder weather., starting fluid isn't nessasry or recommended, over loading the cylinders with starting fluid can do damage. Another point is that the steering clutches should always be pulled back releasing the steering clutches before applying the brakes, they are nice well built machines. Given your lack of experience you gave some detailed information, but not always correct. I've spent 10s of thousands of hours on such machines, reading the manual ist really adequate training.