Ive always looked for the most efficient machines to help with any work i do, best spend money rather than time as time is running out fast 😉 very informative and lively video thanks ..
Wow, what a difference spending a couple (or a lot) more dollars to make changing the blades or moving from one internal cutout to another, so much simpler. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise!
Thanks again for the kind comment Terri. Buying a scroll saw is tricky, people often buy a cheap machine to start with to see how they get on before spending 'proper' money on a quality machine, however because many of the cheap saws are frustrating to use it often puts them off the hobby for good, whereas had they bought a decent saw first they would most likely enjoy the machine so much they would keep the doing the hobby and not want to stop. On the off-chance they didn't like the hobby a decent saw is easy to sell unlike the cheap far east saws that are available two-a-penny.
Hi John, loved the video and for me going off at a tangent is what makes your videos fasinating as is your talking, it's what I look forward to when you post them, keep it up mate. Showing how the bottom clamp is fitted also shows how the table adjustment knob gets in the way, I got rid of it and fitted an repositional tightening leaver off ebay, it gives so much more access room.
I had a Hegner clone back in the early 80’s and honestly it was great I used it it till I got my Hegner Poly Max 3 it was a 15 inch smooth operating used same blade clamps as Hegner but when I got the Hegner the quality was so much better unbelievable difference but I gave the clone to a young friend a few years back and it’s still going strong great video thanks for sharing I have not seen another scroll saw out there with the quality of the Hegner mine is 34 years old I’ve spent less than a hundred dollars on maintenance that isn’t bad
Thanks for the comment. IMHO the 2 most important things on a scrollsaw are 1, quick tension release and 2 quick way of taking the blade in and out i.e. the quick clamp.
I am giving my recently acquired second hand Hegner a bit of tlc (it is the 1992 2S model) as it has a few rust spots coming through. Hegner have confirmed the paint code is RAL 2002 Blood Orange Satin. I thought people might fine this useful. Hegner couldn't help with the paint code for the blue arms though so if anyone has any ideas I would be very grateful. If not I'll do it in Hammerite blue. Even though the saw is 28 years old it runs perfectly. Thanks.
@@scrimperuk Great to hear from you, enjoying your videos very much. Just got my first scrollsaw today an Axminster trade, couple of years old, light use, for £300, really looking foward to playing with it. Going to to a Whirlygig of our dog chasing a tractor ( He does that a lot!) as a christmas pressy for my wife. Thanks for your inspiration!
Pleased to hear you have bought a scrollsaw Hugo. Your Whirligig dog sounds brilliant, I do hope you are going to show us when it is finished. If you look at my videos I do show a whirligig that I made with a German Shepherd chasing a burglar, feel free to copy anything from it.
@@scrimperuk I haven`t seen your dog and burglar one yet, still working my way throught the first "how to" series. I will watch them all eventually though. I`m a real scrimper myself, ( Can`t walk past a skip without a rummage). I won`t directly copy any ideas, like things to be my own design, but I`ll certainly use other folks work for design and inspiration, and sure, yep, if you`re interested, I`ll post you a vid of my first one when it`s done. Regards, Paul.
Hello I am not familiar with Sears machines but 16" cut should be fine. most people don't cut much on a fretsaw that is very long and you can always cut from both ends if desperate. Most scroll saws are sold as 18" so not much to worry about, but please take in mind my comments about buying a saw that I made in reply to your other comment.
Good bit of salesmanship there;-) Hegner should be sending you some nice free stuff after that mate, you certainly deserve it! I have one of the cheapies you showed in part 1 and have always found it adequate for my (very occasional) purposes but I would most certainly spend the big dollar on a quality machine given your expert recommendation. Incidentally, your fretwork examples are very pretty and impressive work - do you draw them yourself? Nice vid mate, thanks for that.
Thank you for the kind comments Mark. I doubt Hegner would even see the video. i do do some designs myself and some I adapt from other patterns. my main interest is in old fretwork patterns pre 1930. I am doing a website covering the subject but it's not ready to publish yet.
scrimperuk Yes I can imagine those would be the most interesting ones, from when fretwork was a popular pasttime. The sunrise-style front for a reproduction radio would be a a fun project with the fretsaw!
Hi Scrimper. I hope you don't mind me asking. I have bought a quick release clamp and I know it has to be clamped tight into the top holder rather than pivoting like the original type. I was expecting the blade to swivel slightly in the quick clamp itself but it is held firm. Is this how it should be or should it pivot slightly in the clamp to keep the blade straight? Thanks. Col.
Col, I am always happy to answer questions. Hegner suggest that the quick clamp should be fastened firmly in the top holder, however what I do is fasten it down then turn the locking bolt/screw back a little so that it allows pivoting whilst the end of the screw keeps the blade in the holder, I have been doing this for 20 years and I have never had any problems.
Great. I will try that then. I also bought the quick tension release lever to replace the original screw knob arrangement at the back of the top arm. It is not as convenient as having it at the front but has certainly made inside cuts easier. A good upgrade for £40. Thanks for your reply. Col.
@@colchal4570 Indeed the quick tension release is essential IMHO especially when doing many internal cuts, together with the quick clamp it makes the machine a pleasure to use. My Diamond machine is a super saw but lack of quick tension is a serious drawback for me. I use my Hegner 90% of the time.
Great vid! I am looking at starting from scratch with a scroll saw. What I would like to use ot for is cutting out joint letters and numbers. Some larger fonts and some smaller. What would be your advice for someone starting out?
Thanks for your comment. My advice would be to buy a decent quality saw at the outset, some of the very cheap ones would put me off sawing for life. when I say cheap I don't necessarily mean money wise. Some of the famous names sell saws that are just re-badged cheap machines that bear no resemblance of the quality brand name used on them. Better to look out for a second hand quality machine than a new cheap one. On the subject of lettering, they are one of the most difficult things to cut out so don't get disheartened if your first results are not perfect. When you cut out other shapes such as a flower they don't have to be perfect and if you go wrong you can disguise your mistake and no one will know but with lettering they have to be spot on or they will look wrong. Scroll-sawing is not difficult, once you have done a bit you will soon find it straightforward.
Difficult to answer Glenn. So many makes and depends on age, condition, make and demand. Be careful when buying, some well known manufacturers who once made high quality products buy cheaply made saws and stick their logo on tricking buyers into thinking they have bought quality when they have not. I consider Hegner to be the 'Rolls-Royce' of saws, they are expensive to buy; even 2nd hand but they will last a lifetime. Axminster tools sell a Hegner clone, I have no experience of them but have heard good reports. There are many other quality make but be careful some may also sell 'badge engineered' models as I mention above. If you use Face-book there is a group entitled 'Scroll Saw & Wood Projects' it's worth joining as lot's of good advice is offered there. Also excellent advice can be had here www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/scrolling-scroll-saws.html
I’m currently scanning eBay trying to find a nice fret saw. What other brands to you Recommend I look at? I do not want to end up with a nice badge but rubbish rebranded machine!
Phil, if you have watched both parts of the video you will know my views on the subject. It depends what you want the saw to do, for a basic cutting machine a cheaper model will do but if you want to do fretwork with internal cuts you need something decent. Obviously the Rolls Royce of fretsaws are the Hegner models but they are expensive. Many makes such as the well renown brand Record sell cheaply made far east stuff with their badge on. best to buy a secondhand decent machine rather than a new cheap one. Have a look at my videos on the Diamond saws where you will find more tips.
Hi Ronnie do you mean the quick clamp blade holder or the quick tension lever? The quick blade clamp will fit your machine and is essential for quick and easy blade changes. The quick tension lever is different. If your machine does not have one there are two ways of equipping your model with this feature. The first method is to replace the top arm assy to include the tension lever as fitted to newer models, the problem with this is that it is very expensive and it may introduce more vibration to the machine. The second method is not only the easiest to install it is also considerably cheaper and will not increase vibration. This method involves buying a retro fit quick release tension knob from Hegner (HM2012QR) and using this to replace the existing 'star' knob tension rod to enable quick blade tensioning. (The cost in UK is around £46.00)
@@scrimperuk Thanks John ill go for the rear quick release tension attachment .im getting a bit worried not got the Hegner yet bought it off Facebook was sposed to be bringing it on Friday but phoned up said it would now be monday im awaiting the next message . at least i think your money is safe i paid with Paypal
That would be good, and it would be even better if you made a video of the project to help others to equip their machines with the facility rather than paying for an expensive Hegner part.
I hate my fretsaw! OK it's a cheap one but for some reason I don't think I take to fretsaws, not powered ones, I'm fine with a hand fretsaw though. I hate it when the wood jumps up, scares me. That's obviously my poor technique so I just avoid using it. Strange but I'm perfectly OK with routers, table saws and bandsaws. I'm even considering using a 1//8 th blade on my bandsaw, although any internal cuts I may wish to do and I'm done for.
For many years I always used a hand-frame even though I had a Hobbies Treadle fretsaw, but you can do much better with a decent powered fretsaw. Now as I mention in my videos my one fear is that people buy a cheap saw find it frustrating to use and then give up and don't blame them. But with a proper machine like a Hegner you would find it a joy to use. Since I bought my Hegner over 20 years ago i have done much more intricate designs than I ever did with a hand frame. You mention wood jumping up and scaring you well I don't think there is a fretsaw user alive who does not suffer the same reaction, worst still when a blade snaps, I swear it will give me a seizure one day! Get yourself a decent machine and keep at it.
Brilliant video Scrimper...I too used to get Hobbies Weekly many years ago and had a Hobbies Gem treadle machine....They are still going strong!!!! I now have an Excalibur Ex 21...Wondered if you had a foot switch? Recently purchased one that is steel but not earthed so its a bit of a worry.... Have you any recommendations?
@@jowettcars you may want to have a look at the marquardt foot switches, I use one on my MC2 and it's really sturdy, not cheap but less expensive than the Hegner one though !
Thank you very much! You managed to keep the waffle to a minimum and yet covered exactly what i needed to know.
Thank you for your kind comment.
Truly a fantastic video the presentation
Was top marks glad l found your video
Thank you
Terry
Thank you so much for your very kind comment Terry, I am so pleased that you found the video helpful.
Ive always looked for the most efficient machines to help with any work i do, best spend money rather than time as time is running out fast 😉 very informative and lively video thanks ..
Many thanks for your kind comment.
Wow, what a difference spending a couple (or a lot) more dollars to make changing the blades or moving from one internal cutout to another, so much simpler. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise!
Thanks again for the kind comment Terri. Buying a scroll saw is tricky, people often buy a cheap machine to start with to see how they get on before spending 'proper' money on a quality machine, however because many of the cheap saws are frustrating to use it often puts them off the hobby for good, whereas had they bought a decent saw first they would most likely enjoy the machine so much they would keep the doing the hobby and not want to stop. On the off-chance they didn't like the hobby a decent saw is easy to sell unlike the cheap far east saws that are available two-a-penny.
Hi John, loved the video and for me going off at a tangent is what makes your videos fasinating as is your talking, it's what I look forward to when you post them, keep it up mate. Showing how the bottom clamp is fitted also shows how the table adjustment knob gets in the way, I got rid of it and fitted an repositional tightening leaver off ebay, it gives so much more access room.
Sorry only just seen this reply. Many thanks for the kind comment. it is so rewarding to hear of people who find them of interest, Thank you.
Thank you, this was exactly what I needed. I was getting lost with all the reviews and write-ups and this makes it really clear!
Thank you for the kind comment Ilona. So glad you found my video useful.
I had a Hegner clone back in the early 80’s and honestly it was great I used it it till I got my Hegner Poly Max 3 it was a 15 inch smooth operating used same blade clamps as Hegner but when I got the Hegner the quality was so much better unbelievable difference but I gave the clone to a young friend a few years back and it’s still going strong great video thanks for sharing I have not seen another scroll saw out there with the quality of the Hegner mine is 34 years old I’ve spent less than a hundred dollars on maintenance that isn’t bad
Thanks for your very interesting comment Jerry. I do agree about the Hegners, they are expensive to buy but are 100% quality saws.
Love your storage cabinet
Thanks Granville, it is very useful to keep the fretwork stuff together.
great demo - you convinced me!
Thank you for your kind comment.
brilliant video just the advice i looking for, thanks
Many thanks for watching, so glad the video was helpful to you.
Throughly enjoyed these video - honest and true explanations:) thank you
Many thanks for watching.
That blade rethreading is mind changing. Why doesn't everyone show this when trying to convince us to buy a more expensive saw. Wow.
Thanks for the comment. IMHO the 2 most important things on a scrollsaw are 1, quick tension release and 2 quick way of taking the blade in and out i.e. the quick clamp.
Great information well delivered Thanks
Many thanks for the kind comment. So glad you found it of interest.
I am giving my recently acquired second hand Hegner a bit of tlc (it is the 1992 2S model) as it has a few rust spots coming through. Hegner have confirmed the paint code is RAL 2002 Blood Orange Satin. I thought people might fine this useful. Hegner couldn't help with the paint code for the blue arms though so if anyone has any ideas I would be very grateful. If not I'll do it in Hammerite blue. Even though the saw is 28 years old it runs perfectly. Thanks.
Thanks for the information Col, my Hegner is now 21 yrs old and still working fine. I would have thought that Hammerrite blue would be perfect.
Many thanks for this, great help!
So glad you found it of interest Hugo and thank you for watching my videos.
@@scrimperuk Great to hear from you, enjoying your videos very much. Just got my first scrollsaw today an Axminster trade, couple of years old, light use, for £300, really looking foward to playing with it. Going to to a Whirlygig of our dog chasing a tractor ( He does that a lot!) as a christmas pressy for my wife. Thanks for your inspiration!
Pleased to hear you have bought a scrollsaw Hugo. Your Whirligig dog sounds brilliant, I do hope you are going to show us when it is finished. If you look at my videos I do show a whirligig that I made with a German Shepherd chasing a burglar, feel free to copy anything from it.
@@scrimperuk I haven`t seen your dog and burglar one yet, still working my way throught the first "how to" series. I will watch them all eventually though. I`m a real scrimper myself, ( Can`t walk past a skip without a rummage). I won`t directly copy any ideas, like things to be my own design, but I`ll certainly use other folks work for design and inspiration, and sure, yep, if you`re interested, I`ll post you a vid of my first one when it`s done.
Regards, Paul.
Hugo of course we would like to see your video. You can see some pictures of the Dog and burglar one here ruclips.net/video/Yi7tag8rfDo/видео.html
Hi John , I have a chance at a low cost older Sears 16 inch. Is an 16 ok for general duty? Thanks.
Hello I am not familiar with Sears machines but 16" cut should be fine. most people don't cut much on a fretsaw that is very long and you can always cut from both ends if desperate. Most scroll saws are sold as 18" so not much to worry about, but please take in mind my comments about buying a saw that I made in reply to your other comment.
Good bit of salesmanship there;-) Hegner should be sending you some nice free stuff after that mate, you certainly deserve it! I have one of the cheapies you showed in part 1 and have always found it adequate for my (very occasional) purposes but I would most certainly spend the big dollar on a quality machine given your expert recommendation. Incidentally, your fretwork examples are very pretty and impressive work - do you draw them yourself? Nice vid mate, thanks for that.
Thank you for the kind comments Mark. I doubt Hegner would even see the video. i do do some designs myself and some I adapt from other patterns. my main interest is in old fretwork patterns pre 1930. I am doing a website covering the subject but it's not ready to publish yet.
scrimperuk Yes I can imagine those would be the most interesting ones, from when fretwork was a popular pasttime. The sunrise-style front for a reproduction radio would be a a fun project with the fretsaw!
Hi Scrimper. I hope you don't mind me asking. I have bought a quick release clamp and I know it has to be clamped tight into the top holder rather than pivoting like the original type. I was expecting the blade to swivel slightly in the quick clamp itself but it is held firm. Is this how it should be or should it pivot slightly in the clamp to keep the blade straight? Thanks. Col.
Col, I am always happy to answer questions. Hegner suggest that the quick clamp should be fastened firmly in the top holder, however what I do is fasten it down then turn the locking bolt/screw back a little so that it allows pivoting whilst the end of the screw keeps the blade in the holder, I have been doing this for 20 years and I have never had any problems.
Great. I will try that then. I also bought the quick tension release lever to replace the original screw knob arrangement at the back of the top arm. It is not as convenient as having it at the front but has certainly made inside cuts easier. A good upgrade for £40. Thanks for your reply. Col.
@@colchal4570 Indeed the quick tension release is essential IMHO especially when doing many internal cuts, together with the quick clamp it makes the machine a pleasure to use. My Diamond machine is a super saw but lack of quick tension is a serious drawback for me. I use my Hegner 90% of the time.
Great vid! I am looking at starting from scratch with a scroll saw. What I would like to use ot for is cutting out joint letters and numbers. Some larger fonts and some smaller. What would be your advice for someone starting out?
Thanks for your comment.
My advice would be to buy a decent quality saw at the outset, some of the very cheap ones would put me off sawing for life. when I say cheap I don't necessarily mean money wise. Some of the famous names sell saws that are just re-badged cheap machines that bear no resemblance of the quality brand name used on them. Better to look out for a second hand quality machine than a new cheap one. On the subject of lettering, they are one of the most difficult things to cut out so don't get disheartened if your first results are not perfect.
When you cut out other shapes such as a flower they don't have to be perfect and if you go wrong you can disguise your mistake and no one will know but with lettering they have to be spot on or they will look wrong. Scroll-sawing is not difficult, once you have done a bit you will soon find it straightforward.
@@scrimperuk thank you, how much would you pay for a 2nd hand piece? And what makes are good?
Difficult to answer Glenn. So many makes and depends on age, condition, make and demand. Be careful when buying, some well known manufacturers who once made high quality products buy cheaply made saws and stick their logo on tricking buyers into thinking they have bought quality when they have not.
I consider Hegner to be the 'Rolls-Royce' of saws, they are expensive to buy; even 2nd hand but they will last a lifetime. Axminster tools sell a Hegner clone, I have no experience of them but have heard good reports. There are many other quality make but be careful some may also sell 'badge engineered' models as I mention above.
If you use Face-book there is a group entitled 'Scroll Saw & Wood Projects' it's worth joining as lot's of good advice is offered there.
Also excellent advice can be had here www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/scrolling-scroll-saws.html
I’m currently scanning eBay trying to find a nice fret saw. What other brands to you Recommend I look at? I do not want to end up with a nice badge but rubbish rebranded machine!
Phil, if you have watched both parts of the video you will know my views on the subject. It depends what you want the saw to do, for a basic cutting machine a cheaper model will do but if you want to do fretwork with internal cuts you need something decent. Obviously the Rolls Royce of fretsaws are the Hegner models but they are expensive. Many makes such as the well renown brand Record sell cheaply made far east stuff with their badge on. best to buy a secondhand decent machine rather than a new cheap one. Have a look at my videos on the Diamond saws where you will find more tips.
I think one point you don't mention is noise. This Hegner seems to be pretty quiet compared to the cheaper ones.
Thank you for the comment. The Hegner is indeed very quiet and smooth running, it is a joy to use.
Just bought a Hener multicut 2 off facebook ,just wondered if the quick blade release attachment would work ?
Hi Ronnie do you mean the quick clamp blade holder or the quick tension lever? The quick blade clamp will fit your machine and is essential for quick and easy blade changes. The quick tension lever is different. If your machine does not have one there are two ways of equipping your model with this feature.
The first method is to replace the top arm assy to include the tension lever as fitted to newer models, the problem with this is that it is very expensive and it may introduce more vibration to the machine.
The second method is not only the easiest to install it is also considerably cheaper and will not increase vibration. This method involves buying a retro fit quick release tension knob from Hegner (HM2012QR) and using this to replace the existing 'star' knob tension rod to enable quick blade tensioning. (The cost in UK is around £46.00)
@@scrimperuk Thanks John ill go for the rear quick release tension attachment .im getting a bit worried not got the Hegner yet bought it off Facebook was sposed to be bringing it on Friday but phoned up said it would now be monday im awaiting the next message . at least i think your money is safe i paid with Paypal
I have a Blacksmiths shop as well might have a go at miking one myself .amazing what you can do with a bit of metal and a bit of Nous
That would be good, and it would be even better if you made a video of the project to help others to equip their machines with the facility rather than paying for an expensive Hegner part.
I hate my fretsaw! OK it's a cheap one but for some reason I don't think I take to fretsaws, not powered ones, I'm fine with a hand fretsaw though. I hate it when the wood jumps up, scares me. That's obviously my poor technique so I just avoid using it. Strange but I'm perfectly OK with routers, table saws and bandsaws. I'm even considering using a 1//8 th blade on my bandsaw, although any internal cuts I may wish to do and I'm done for.
For many years I always used a hand-frame even though I had a Hobbies Treadle fretsaw, but you can do much better with a decent powered fretsaw. Now as I mention in my videos my one fear is that people buy a cheap saw find it frustrating to use and then give up and don't blame them. But with a proper machine like a Hegner you would find it a joy to use. Since I bought my Hegner over 20 years ago i have done much more intricate designs than I ever did with a hand frame. You mention wood jumping up and scaring you well I don't think there is a fretsaw user alive who does not suffer the same reaction, worst still when a blade snaps, I swear it will give me a seizure one day! Get yourself a decent machine and keep at it.
Brilliant video Scrimper...I too used to get Hobbies Weekly many years ago and had a Hobbies Gem treadle machine....They are still going strong!!!! I now have an Excalibur Ex 21...Wondered if you had a foot switch? Recently purchased one that is steel but not earthed so its a bit of a worry.... Have you any recommendations?
@@jowettcars you may want to have a look at the marquardt foot switches, I use one on my MC2 and it's really sturdy, not cheap but less expensive than the Hegner one though !
Hegner
Blades 1:20